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I got the engine in on the 31st and it would turn over but not fire. I could smell fuel and I verified spark, that left only one thing, the timing. I checked the manual once again and that is when I realized I did not put the cam sprockets on in the right location. I totally missed the...

As it sits on the way back together. The bottom end is buttoned up but the head is just hand tight, I need to find a deep 13MM 12 point. Mine is too short to torque the head studs. Dik

Nevermind, I measured the bolts for stretch and they were still in the factory spec for new bolts so I reused them. Dik

I am trying to re-assembly my engine today and all of the torque specs I can find for the rods list 16ft-lbs plus 90 then another 90. That to me is a tty method of torquing, do I need to replace my rod bolts? I haven't read anywhere about replacing them and I have never heard of talk about...

Got everything back from the machinist yesterday. The crank only needed a polishing, and the block only needed honing. The head was still flat within .0015". The rods did get re-sized and I was amazed how clean everything come back, everything looks brand new. Re-assembly starts this...

Good news, the block, crank, rods and pistons were all good. The crank was able to be polished and the block only honed. They said they had a bit of trouble getting one of the squirters out but finally got it. I pick everything up tomorrow and will begin reassembly. I have to get it done and...

Dropped the block, crank, rods and pistons and head off at the machine shop today to have it all checked out cleaned, polished and magged. Hopefully it all checks out ok. Dik

Would you recommend opening up the skirt holes?

Thanks for all of the advice. I run mobile1 in my 6.0 PowerStroke it is most likely what I will run in this engine also. I would probably just buy it in the 5 quart or gallon size to bring the price down a bit. My 6.0 takes 15 quarts :) Dik

I can guarantee this is most likely my problem.(hand) Dik

It was the factory belt. Dik

One more question. Does anyone have any ideas of what would cause this? It appears as if the belt was pushing out on the cover all of the bots were tight and there was no play in the pulleys for either the crank or the water pump. Dik

Here are some pics of the crank and rods. Rod #2 journal Rod #3 journal Rod #2 Rod #3 Pan Disregard the oil in the bucket it is out of my Diesel on this engine. I hung the pistons and rods to let any residual oil drain out of them. The top and middle rings are free to move but the oil...

Got the engine out today and mostly torn down. Just the oil pump and crank remain in the block at this point. #2 and #3 rods killed the bearings. They didn't spin in the rod but the crank is either scored or it has aluminum deposits on it. I am hoping it will polish out. I pulled the main...

Pulled the engine getting ready for a rebuild. Tomorrow it will come apart to see the damage. Dik

Just ordered my rebuild kit from Protege Garage. All that is left is to get the engine pulled and completely torn down and to the machine shop for honing and hot tanking. While I have it out I am going to reseal the transmission and replace all of my heater hoses. Dik

If you are talking about valve lash I did not do it before the tear down. I wanted to get the head off and check the cylinders for wear. I haven't been able to find the shims anywhere yet.

Also a few of the cam journals that have some scoring? They are big enough that I can catch my nail on them. Here are some bad pics of two of them. Is this head scrap now? or can I ease the edges and make sure there are no burs and run it? The cams look fine as well as the tappets...