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Oh haha, fair enough.

Is there one, or would anyone be inclined to make one? Seems that a local Facebook group would make more sense given the 50k posts in the "random chat" thread.

Could be a clogged ATF filter as well; symptoms sound fairly similar to what my old Geo Metro would do.

Bondo's not really my thing lol. I actually found what I was looking for: http://www.rustrepair.com/panels/MAZDA-PROTEGE-99-PATCH-PANELS.htm

Boosted cars burn more oil because of higher levels of blow by, so yeah a little is no big deal. I seriously doubt you have a crack between your oil and coolant jacket though, wouldn't worry too much.

Also necrobump lol. I need to find something better to do at work.

And since you're obviously mechanically inclined I wouldn't bother with any additives, you're just wasting money. Just tear it apart again and re-ring it, toss new bearings in while you got it all apart. Rockauto sells bomb ass DNJ rebuild kits for cheap, their crank and rod bearings are top notch.

FYI, it's not uncommon for oil rings to collapse and create the symptoms you're describing. Generally they collapse from a lack of oil changes (carbon builds up in the ring lands and makes them stick). You'll still have great compression but it'll burn oil like a mother fucker.

If it was a valve seal you'd have carbon deposits on one side (where the intake valve is) of the spark plug, rather than the whole thing. Also I noticed you didn't say much about oil deposits on the intake side of things, which I'm assuming is because there isn't any. Most likely you're pulling...

I suppose anything is possible. If you want peace of mind though I'd do a compression check ;)

Did the new pads move smoothly inside their tracks...? Biggest rookie mistake people make with brakes is just throwing pads on and assuming the grease will take care of everything. You need to sand the track the pads sit in and usually the little tabs on the pads as well to get them to fit nice.

No problem. I'd be curious to see a PID list, especially if it's heat related. Be cautious with it lol.

Well you should really invest in a better scanner. Any other symptoms you've noticed? Can you borrow a vacuum gauge at least? Otherwise you could pull out a DVOM and a wiring diagram and check to see if the EGR solenoid is being actuated by the PCM.

You're really gonna have a problem on your hands if you attempt to remove the factory alarm system. The various other modules in your car are gonna be expecting a super secret handshake from the alarm system before they decide it's okay to do something, it's nothing like an aftermarket system...

I don't believe the fans in your car share any portion of wiring from the factory, however I have no idea how your eBay fans are wired in. Is it possible they are wired in series? The easiest way to test a relay without any knowledge is to swap it with another one in the fuse block and see if...

When you say the check engine light keeps going on and off, do you mean blinking? Or just comes and goes? There should be a history code in there regardless if you scanned it within a reasonable amount of time. Are there any drivability problems?

Hard to diagnose with very little information. Can you gain access to a scan tool that can provide you with a live data stream? I'm assuming your vehicle is coil on plug? Generally when a coil or fuel injector fail, you'll get a specific cylinder misfire. EGR sounds about right considering the...

Well the dome light and radio don't run into your PCM but the dome light does ground out through the instrument cluster when set to "Door" mode. If no fuses are popped (did you pull them out and physically inspect them?) than there is a possibility he smoked the circuit board in the cluster.

You don't need anything fancy, you can pick up a cheapy scanner with data streaming from Advanced for like $80 I think. Worth the investment for sure. Just make sure it has live data stream and not just a code puller.

I just want to clear things up so future forum members don't **** something up on their car/spout misinformation. Anything under 14.7 AFR is RICH and over 14.7 is LEAN. It's 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel. If you had leaned out your fuel map you'd be exactly where f1yen and thecrash91 are currently.