2014 CX-5 100k service

[jack1010]

Hi, my 2014 CX-5 touring is hitting 100k and I went to a local car repair shop to get an idea what 100k service items need to be done and at what cost.

The car runs fine so far with 28 MPG (with mixed driving) and we have done regular oil changes and as needed battery replacement, brake pad, differential fluid, tires. I am wondering whether the services are "required" or "nice to have". I do plan to keep the car and will appreciate any thoughts.

The list of suggested service items are-

1. Cabin air filter
2. Engine Coolant Flush
3. Transfer Case Fluid Exchange - gear oil
4. Transmission Fluid Flush
5. Drive Belt - serpentine
6. Fuel/ air induction service
7. Spark Plugs
8. Control Arms Suspension

 

[Snorting2.5]

Do the transmission strainer as well - not just the fluid.

I would get that all done.

 

[yrwei52]

Hi, my 2014 CX-5 touring is hitting 100k and I went to a local car repair shop to get an idea what 100k service items need to be done and at what cost.

The car runs fine so far with 28 MPG (with mixed driving) and we have done regular oil changes and as needed battery replacement, brake pad, differential fluid, tires. I am wondering whether the services are "required" or "nice to have". I do plan to keep the car and will appreciate any thoughts.

The list of suggested service items are-

1. Cabin air filter
2. Engine Coolant Flush
3. Transfer Case Fluid Exchange - gear oil
4. Transmission Fluid Flush
5. Drive Belt - serpentine
6. Fuel/ air induction service
7. Spark Plugs
8. Control Arms Suspension

Many things similar.

Preventative Maintenance List for 10 year old / 150k mile CX-5

 

[wlong01]

Check and see if you had the transfer case gear oil changed when you had the differential service done. If so maybe can be skipped.

 

[Mazdiod2]

Hi, my 2014 CX-5 touring is hitting 100k and I went to a local car repair shop to get an idea what 100k service items need to be done and at what cost.

The car runs fine so far with 28 MPG (with mixed driving) and we have done regular oil changes and as needed battery replacement, brake pad, differential fluid, tires. I am wondering whether the services are "required" or "nice to have". I do plan to keep the car and will appreciate any thoughts.

The list of suggested service items are-

1. Cabin air filter
2. Engine Coolant Flush
3. Transfer Case Fluid Exchange - gear oil
4. Transmission Fluid Flush
5. Drive Belt - serpentine
6. Fuel/ air induction service
7. Spark Plugs
8. Control Arms Suspension

Were the spark plugs replaced at 75k? You might ask what the fuel/air induction service is. Are your control arms bad?

 

[jack1010]

Were the spark plugs replaced at 75k? You might ask what the fuel/air induction service is. Are your control arms bad?

Thanks.

1. Spark plugs were not replaced at 75k.
2. Fuel/ air induction service looks like cleaning deposits in the fuel spray pattern that improves fuel economy
3. Control arms (left and right) are about $ 1,200 in total. See pic below - apparently they are worn out. Not sure if it is bad enough to require replacement

 

[ColtX-5]

Read the owner's manual. A 100k service may only be an oil change, depending on the schedule you ought to be on. The big service is 60k/120k. Plus, the coolant is due for a change at 10 years or 120k, whichever comes first.

 

[yrwei52]

Thanks.

1. Spark plugs were not replaced at 75k.
2. Fuel/ air induction service looks like cleaning deposits in the fuel spray pattern that improves fuel economy
3. Control arms (left and right) are about $ 1,200 in total. See pic below - apparently they are worn out. Not sure if it is bad enough to require replacement

View attachment 327482

1. You do need a set of new spark plugs. The replacement schedule is 75,000 miles. As I said in another thread, use only OEM PE5R-18-110A, or NGK ILKAR7L11 / 94124 iridium spark plugs for your 2.5L NA.

2. If fuel / air induction service is only for cleaning deposits in the fuel spray pattern, you can DIY easily by put in some good fuel injector cleaner such as Chevron Techron (Costco?) in gas tank.

3. Front LCA bushing and ball joint on CX-5 is problematic and there have been many updates based on many TSBs especially on early MYs. Compare to recently purchased LCA on my 2016 CX-5, your LCA bushing definitely has worn and should be replaced.

Be aware Mazda uses different front LCAs for different MYs on CX-5; whereas the aftermarket LCAs have one-size-fit-all.

CX-5 DIY Control Arm Replacement Difficulty?

Finally, @ColtX-5’s suggestion on coolant change is correct. Your factory coolant is 10 years old and it should be replaced.

 

[Snorting2.5]

No way I would be spending that kind of money to replace $100 control arm. Go to a different mechanic. Also, your control arm bushing looks fine. Unless you have play in the ball joints, no need to replace.

 

[Snorting2.5]

From my experience, The control arms are problematic because of the awful roads which the vehicles were not directly designed for, considering the road quality in Japan.

 

[yrwei52]

No way I would be spending that kind of money to replace $100 control arm. Go to a different mechanic. Also, your control arm bushing looks fine. Unless you have play in the ball joints, no need to replace.

Apparently you didn’t deal with the LCAs on CX-5 recently. Go to the link I posted above and read. The OEM LCA for a 2014 CX-5 selling for $165.15 each just 1.5 years ago now it’s $248.35. Yes you can pay $100 each for some cheap aftermarket LCAs, but do you really want to risk $250 labor each for a LCA which may have fitment and reliability problems?

The OP saw the LCA bushing has worn out with a pic. I can see it too comparing to my new LCA bushing. With worn-out bushing some states can’t even pass inspection (again, see the same discussion).

$1,200 to replace both front LCAs seems to be outrageous. But unless you DIY with cheapest aftermarket LCAs, that price (apparently it’s a dealer’s quote may include a 4 wheel alignment) isn’t too high based on my recent experience and others (again, see the discussion in the link).

 

[yrwei52]

From my experience, The control arms are problematic because of the awful roads which the vehicles were not directly designed for, considering the road quality in Japan.

So why there aren’t too many such complaints from other Japanese SUVs in the US? The front LCA bushings and ball joints are still original on my 1998 Honda CR-V with 191K miles driven on the awful US roads.

 

[Snorting2.5]

Not a Cx-5, but my 2015 6, which has essentially the same components, is on its second LCA, which already has some play in it. (Again.) . I'm at close to 193,000 miles. So I agree it's excessive and a problem area.

My bushings look much worse than what you see in that photo. The vehicle handles stable and adeptly through a variety of road conditions and maneuvers (Including high speeds and hard cornering.)

As I've mentioned in another post, my 2 cents is that replacing the entire LCA for a slightly worn bushings, on a problem area which wears quickly anyways, for such an insane price isn't worth it.

 

[Snorting2.5]

It was actually a trusted mechanic who pointed out that the bushing was worn, and that it isn't a big deal. He was more concerned about the minimal amount of play on one of my ball joints, which also is not extreme enough to warrant a replacement just yet. I like to make the most of the parts on my car before replacing.

 

[yrwei52]

⋯ As I've mentioned in another post, my 2 cents is that replacing the entire LCA for a slightly worn bushings, on a problem area which wears quickly anyways, for such an insane price isn't worth it.

I understand what you’re saying. In fact even if the 3 connecting rubber all separated on LCA bushing it won’t cause any safety issue other than big clunking noise and fast tire wear. And in old days we only replace the rubber bushings but not the entire LCA as the labor was much cheaper. If you can DIY replacing only the rubber bushings not the entire LCA which may be the way to go to save big money. But for Mazda the ball joint is also the weak point which looks like very difficult to replace only the ball joint. Hence for Mazda, replacing the entire LCA which includes bushings and ball joint seems to be a better way to go.

 

[Snorting2.5]

In short, keep a close eye out for play in the front wheels when you have the car up in the air. Or clunking.

Though my LCA ball joint clunks over bumpy turns, it's hardly any play. I won't change it just yet.. Look out for excessive amounts of it.

 

[yrwei52]

⋯
Though my LCA ball joint clunks over bumpy turns, it's hardly any play. I won't change it just yet.. Look out for excessive amounts of it.

But you still want to be careful on clunking ball joint even if it doesn’t have any “play”. It’s a lot more dangerous when the LCA ball joint fails, i.e. the ball comes out of the socket! And it’s been reported a couple of times here even on an almost new CX-50:

Control Arm Shears off on a 2023 CX-50 with 2k miles

 

[yrwei52]

And here are some reports from CX-5 on LCA ball joint failure:

Hi, I was recently travelling in a Mazda CX-5 2013, which has done 73K miles, when the suspension control arm suddenly detached, causing the steering to be lost and the wheel to cave in. The car has been regularly serviced, MOTd, and has had no accidents. Furthermore, it has not been driven on rough terrain.

The incident happened after travelling around 170 miles and there had been no signs of any suspension issues leading up to the incident. Thankfully the problem happened as the car was entering a car park. Had it occurred at speed, the consequences would most likely have caused fatalities.

Has anyone experienced anything similar or has suggestions to make? I'm still reeling from the trauma!

Thanks!

Old thread, but this just happened to our 2014 CX-5. The ball joint separated from the LCA, letting the wheel dangle - fortunately in out driveway. Ugh. A new LCA is due to arrive today, so meanwhile I've been removing the bad control arm. I needed a mega cheater bar for one of the rear inner bolts, and a bit of cheating on the front inner bolt, but the A-arm itself is out now.

HOWEVER, I CANNOT get the pinch bolt that holds the ball joint pin out. I got the nut off the rear side OK, and in theory, you should just be able to push the bolt out of the knuckle, but no! Tried a big mallet to (err) 'tap' it out. Tried an impact to get it to turn. Nothing. Tried heat followed by cold. Kroil penetrating oil. That bolt is welded in. I can turn the ball itself, with a wrench, so at least the pin is not seized, but I really need some help or ideas on that bolt. I can't even cut it, as I don't know where the seized area is, and I could end up making it worse.

HELP PLEASE!?

Hi to all , 2013 cx5 with 119.00 miles

Same failure to me , but also pull the drive shaft..

Fortunately it was during a turn with very low speed..

What to say…

Last night my daughter pulled out of a parking space in our 2014 CX-5 and her wheel just separated from the car. It has 75K miles on it and we bought it as a Mazda certified car in 2019. The mechanic told me that the lower control arm failed, causing the axle to break. When I looked inside I saw that the ball joint was detached. When the tow truck driver came out, he knew exactly what it was and told me that he has seen this many times on Hondas and a number of times on Mazdas. At the shop, a number of the technicians were shocked at what they saw. They kept telling me how lucky we were.

Has there been a recall on this? I didn’t see one for the year 2014, yet I see this topic is repeated. I am shook because this could have been fatal if it was at high speed. My last 3 cars have all been Toyotas that were safety/reliability dreams well past 150K miles. My previous 2 Mazdas were leases, so I haven’t tested their reliability and I am concerned. The car has mainly been driven 8K miles per year within my MA town, with a few 200 mile road trips. It was last serviced 3 months ago for an oil change and tire rotation, not done at the dealer, but by an ASE certified mechanic.

I’m looking for feedback on this more unusual repair. I took it to a very reputable shop, but am also wondering if I should have gone to Mazda. I chose the closer shop because it took 3 different tow trucks to be able to load it on the flatbed without creating further damage and I wanted to minimize the travel distance. I also knew I wanted both sides repaired, out of caution, and was concerned about the price differential at the dealer.

The photos are not the best, but I can go back and take more as the parts will take a week or more.

 

[jack1010]

Thanks all for your inputs.

In particular, appreciate yrwei52 and Snorting2.5 for their thoughts on LCA. Repair quote is from a local repair shop and LCA (right and left) is the most expensive item on the list. I will get a second quote from other shop and see if it is any better

Any thoughts on the drive belt-serpentine. Apparently, it is also due. Please see below

Also adding both LCAs - do both look bad equally bad (rubber and ball joint)

 

[Snorting2.5]

I would definitely replace that serpentine belt as precautionary measure. At 220,000km, mine was in rough shape.

If your ball joints have play in them, find a better quote and replace them. Otherwise, you could leave those for now (if you wish.)