What have you done to your Mazda6 today?

Thanks Steve, the black on black really does look nice. Actually, ALL of their parts look freakin BEAUTIFUL now that I've spent some time on the site.

View attachment 179236 ...hm, not sure how to thumbnail that.

I think I might pick up some of their stealth clamps for my future CAI install on the GT. If I had my car, I'd probably swap my intake out for that, along with the return tube.
 
I felt that the car spooled just as fast with the fmic as with the ets. You may need a stronger spring if it is going off at -3. My forge never did that but the hks likes to vent off before boost hits but would shut once you get into it more.

Its hard to answer your question. Are you running a tmic of fmic now? You may need a fine tune when changing from one to the other since the stock tmic has a boost drop. And boost will always varry depending on the weather. Sometimes I used to hold 21psi. Then some days I would hold 19. It just depends. Now that I am on the stock tune it holds 14-15psi. And it is sloooooooow. I guess I have gotten used to the vette.

Well I had the SU TMIC on previously so not much of a boost drop. I will try the red spring (using blue + 2 shims right now).

Pretty sure something is off though /:.
 
I just got the new SU (SURE) intake / inlet setup. It is very nicely built I must say. Once it arrives you will appreciate it. Glad I didn't get the cpe one.

Only minor gripe is that I didn't like that they reused the stock return line. That is probably a result of me having to drive to storage to find it and then cutting my hand trying to remove it from the stock intake.
 

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^^ yay i been hearing a lot about Sure products lately.

Their products look REALLY quality made, and damn sexy.
im considering their Rear Diff brace and RMM. I already have an inlet on the way, otherwise i may have tried theirs.
 
Tungsten, yep, that's the site.

Thanks for the pic and comments coyfish, glad to hear someone chime in. I think come spring this might be the one I go for over the PG one I had been planning to pick up.

Oh, and they sell a return hose too, for $60.00. I think I'll just use the stock.
 
For sure, the only thing i dont like is their creative names. im trying to figure out what the icebox was but im guessing its was a box for the sri.

I think they're clever. Makes them easily identifiable in the community. Still interested to see what they come up with next.
 
Geez, I stop paying attention to the Speed for 6 months and a new company springs up! Their prices are good, I'll have to keep an eye on new developments (I haven't forgotten the Speed, just been putting money into the Miata).
 
I used a drill to get through the vent tube when I installed my boost gauge, you just have to be careful not to hit the drill chuck on the dash. I felt the vent tube underneath first to make sure I wouldn't hit anything drilling through.

I drilled mine as well. Getting through the firewall was a PITA. I had to have a neighbor help me push it through. My daughter tried to help but at 7 years old, she couldn't do it.

On the Sure stuff, I'm looking to get the RMM and Rear Diff along with HR springs. I like the way they look and I have heard good things about them. Plus the price is good.
 
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We drilled the hole through the dash, underneath the vent, just enough to feed the boost line thru.
I'm running the mechanical one, because of the altitude here.

I'll most likely finish everything this weekend. I found some extra HID ballasts that I'm gonna use to replace my busted one.
 
We drilled the hole through the dash, underneath the vent, just enough to feed the boost line thru.
I'm running the mechanical one, because of the altitude here.

I'll most likely finish everything this weekend. I found some extra HID ballasts that I'm gonna use to replace my busted one.

DDM kit? It should have warranty.
 
Three things I did for the boost gauge install with the block8head pod:

- Push an extended set of needle nose pliers through the top side of the grommet for the big cable bundle that goes through the firewall until it pops out the other side, open them up, push the boost tube onto one tip and pull it back through. That keeps the sensor for an electric boost gauge in the cabin. I also used some vacuum tube instead of the clear tube provided.

- Use a soldering iron to make the hole through the dash vent bottom, quick and clean and you don't have to worry about marring the dash with a drill.

- Make your wiring harness with plugs so you can unplug your pod. The plugs sit in the vent area, so you just pull the pod off, unplug it, put the old vent back on and you're back to looking like nothing has been done, but the wires are easily accessible so you can hook it back up.
 
- Make your wiring harness with plugs so you can unplug your pod. The plugs sit in the vent area, so you just pull the pod off, unplug it, put the old vent back on and you're back to looking like nothing has been done, but the wires are easily accessible so you can hook it back up.

How did you make the wiring harness?
 
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