the stock replacement are a good plug even if it says FoMoCo on it. it is a safe bet. imo. coolwhip. But throw the denso in and see what happens
Spark Plugs
- Thread starter CoolWhip
- Start date
I believe the standard grey which is at Advance Auto at the counter will be ok. But if you are set on the copper an industrial manufacturing supply house maybe Fastenal, or MSC.
I left mine stock gap out of the box which is .32 but cobb says to make it .28, my option is dont **** with gapping iridium plugs there's a nice chance of snapping those little tips for something that not really needed.
FritzTCoyote
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed3 GT 2008
Grease?
Do you mean Dielectric Grease?
Put a little bit on the ceramic 'outside' of the plug so that the ceramic does not bond to the 'rubbber' plug boot. This will make it much easier to remove the plug wires in X thousand miles when it comes time to take the plugs out.
It will also help seal out moisture, to keep the plug-wire to plug connection from corroding.
It is non-conductive, so make sure it does not get on the electrical connections, only the insulators.
Some plug wire sets will come with a bulb of it.
Permatex (among others) sell it in little 1/3rd ounce tubes, which is plenty for 4 cylinder engines.
geezz, I had not even considered the boot when Grease was mentioned. Thanks for bringing that up. FTC
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OEM plugs don't need anti-seize
OK, AFTER I replaced my plugs, I ran across a statement issued from NGK indicating that anti-seize is NOT recommended for any plug that is coated for aluminum cylinder heads (basically any plug with a shiny metal thread). The anti-seize can lead to over-torquing of the plug, and actually lead to problems with removal. The shiny coating on the plugs from the factory is designed to allow the plugs to break away from the cylinder head during initial removal. However, they DO recommend anti-seize if you remove a coated plug for inspection, then replace it, because the coating has been compromised by the initial removal of the plug.
I'm guessing this applies to many if the higher-end plugs out there, so I figured I'd post this FYI, since many of us are accustomed to using anti-seize.
OK, AFTER I replaced my plugs, I ran across a statement issued from NGK indicating that anti-seize is NOT recommended for any plug that is coated for aluminum cylinder heads (basically any plug with a shiny metal thread). The anti-seize can lead to over-torquing of the plug, and actually lead to problems with removal. The shiny coating on the plugs from the factory is designed to allow the plugs to break away from the cylinder head during initial removal. However, they DO recommend anti-seize if you remove a coated plug for inspection, then replace it, because the coating has been compromised by the initial removal of the plug.
I'm guessing this applies to many if the higher-end plugs out there, so I figured I'd post this FYI, since many of us are accustomed to using anti-seize.
You scared me on this one. i am old school and like to check my plugs once in a while and put a whiff of high temp anti seize on. i have had a problem with my combustion. I used ngk colder and replaced with stock again after tightening the gap. I just recently put the Denso two step colder in. After adding the air straightener for the mazdaspeed CAI. Car runs very well and my gas mileage is back where it was originally. Thanks. and good info
Anyone used the https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)?
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That's good information, thanks.
8-10 ft-lbs.
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spoolin_05
Member
- :
- 2007 ms3
Hmm I wonder why Cobb would suggest the iridiums for a step colder plug... I've always heard of going with copper plugs with turbo apps...I'd like to hear some input from cobbb on this
Stock plugs have iridium tips over copper center electrode!
That IS very much exactly what you want on a forced induction engine.
Denso Iridiums or NGK Iridium IX is what this engine needs, either in the stock heat range (6) or if running higher boost, aftermarket tuned or running downpipe, especially if catless, then go one range colder, heat range (7).
mazdaspeed32007
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed3
whats the explaination behind this? im not doubting anyone's knowledge because people always aquire different info from different sources and having a few options and explainations could help decipher what plug to use and why. i currently am using the denso 1 step colder with plenty of mods and when i installed them the difference was noticed immediatly. very great throttle response, smoother accel, smoother idle and so on right from the get go.
Which part of my post are you seeking explanation?
If it is heat range choice, please consult the discussion of this at the AP portion of Cobb's web site, or maybe try the search function here, as there are quite a few threads.
There are also excellent discussions of heat range choice on modded engines at NGK's web site.
Edit: Or you can go here and get a very comprehensive and balanced discussion of the issues, including full SAE engineering research papers on the subject. (Probably more objective info at this site than you ever possibly wanted to know about spark plugs).
http://www.sparkplugs.com/sparkplug411.asp?kw=Iridium&mfid=0
If it is heat range choice, please consult the discussion of this at the AP portion of Cobb's web site, or maybe try the search function here, as there are quite a few threads.
There are also excellent discussions of heat range choice on modded engines at NGK's web site.
Edit: Or you can go here and get a very comprehensive and balanced discussion of the issues, including full SAE engineering research papers on the subject. (Probably more objective info at this site than you ever possibly wanted to know about spark plugs).
http://www.sparkplugs.com/sparkplug411.asp?kw=Iridium&mfid=0
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mazdaspeed32007
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed3
lol. i meant the difference in your opinion on why iridium and the heat ranges vs standard plugs. nvm...you gave the link to the spark plug website not 1 person ever made it through...even the guy who wrote it had to have someone take over. lol.
