How To: EGR Removal and Cleaning, Rough Idle Fix

[microman777]

That's because the parts usually give out after about 18 months, lol. They fix a "problem" but they don't fix the cause of the problem. So it rears it's head again 18 months later, and boom, they get paid to repair it again. Double anal sex at the dealership...


Dang, double whammmy huh!! LOL Too bad I don't fly south for the winter! LOL

[mazdap502]

I wanted to thank 122 Vega for this post. it has helped me to clear up a issue that we were having. dont know if it has worked yet, however from the issues i was having this might do the trick. the pic and details were on point. now i just have to get the pipe that goes from the air box to the trottle body as ours was in bad shape. thanks again.

[ucMP3]

I wanted to thank 122 Vega for this post. it has helped me to clear up a issue that we were having. dont know if it has worked yet, however from the issues i was having this might do the trick. the pic and details were on point. now i just have to get the pipe that goes from the air box to the trottle body as ours was in bad shape. thanks again.

You mean from the exhaust manifold to the Intake manifold? (boom08)

[xDJ DUBx]

Sounds like he's just talking about the plastic intake pipe. Not sure how u thought he meant egr pipe. lol.

[ucMP3]

Sounds like he's just talking about the plastic intake pipe. Not sure how u thought he meant egr pipe. lol.

Maybe because this is the "EGR Removal and Cleaning" thread... (doh)

I guess I'm way out of line there, haha. (321fu)

[xDJ DUBx]

Understandable but the egr doesn't go from the air box to throttle body. lol, newbz (lol2)

[ucMP3]

You mean from the exhaust manifold to the Intake manifold? (boom08)


Understandable but the egr doesn't go from the air box to throttle body. lol, newbz (lol2)

O, I never knew that.... I didn't already post where it goes above you... (notcool)

You tryin to act like an ass for any reason in particular right now? Or are you just in an ignorant mood currently?

[xDJ DUBx]

No he said that, not you.

Not really.










ok, I lie. I'm bored as shit at work. (boom02)

[ucMP3]

No he said that, not you.
Not really.










ok, I lie. I'm bored as shit at work. (boom02)

Child, you need Jesus.

[xDJ DUBx]

Pfh, Jesus needs ME.

[microman777]

Hey, Jesus (Hesus in spanish) is at the car wash man and can pimp up ur ride!!! :)

[ucMP3]

Hey, Jesus (Hesus in spanish) is at the car wash man and can pimp up ur ride!!! :)

LOL, este fue mi nombre en la clase de Espanol cuando fui en la escuela... :)

[microman777]

LOL, este fue mi nombre en la clase de Espanol cuando fui en la escuela... :)

Now that is funny man! :)

[DeadAir]

OK, this may sound silly, but check your hoses leading from the solenoid to the throttle body... I had a disconnected hose that was causing my stalling and low RPMs

[ucMP3]

OK, this may sound silly, but check your hoses leading from the solenoid to the throttle body... I had a disconnected hose that was causing my stalling and low RPMs

Sounds like you have a Canadian EGR valve. The regular ones don't have any coolant hoses (I assume thats what you're talking about). Although that wouldn't really cause an erratic idle... Got a picture?

[xkon]

ugh. Finally got a 12mm stubby and getting that EGR out turned from nightmare to dead easy. Broke 2 screws LOL and got it all apart to find that damn valve completely seized... damn i replaced the coils wires plugs... i guess ive found my issue. My car turned 7 in August so the warranty here in Canada just lapsed for it.. gonna order a canadian replacement, for now im reinstalling my cleaned one with only 2 of its screws, i think thats better than how it was... cant wait to see how it runs now!

[xkon]

ugh. Finally got a 12mm stubby and getting that EGR out turned from nightmare to dead easy. Broke 2 screws LOL and got it all apart to find that damn valve completely seized... damn i replaced the coils wires plugs... i guess ive found my issue. My car turned 7 in August so the warranty here in Canada just lapsed for it.. gonna order a canadian replacement, for now im reinstalling my cleaned one with only 2 of its screws, i think thats better than how it was... cant wait to see how it runs now!

Heh ordered new egr installed and all is good - rough idle is gooooone

[GDZKiNGDM]

Looks like that's what i'm up agianst. I'll buy a new one...how much did you pay for your EGR and where abouts in Canada are you from?

[Boston5761]

When you mention "resistance of the pins", what exactly is this?

[Boston5761]

anyone?

[Boston5761]

anyone even do this while cleaning theirs?

[b_dues]

Took the EGR off about five minutes ago which was easy but the four screws that attached the the two pieces together was not. Three of the screws were rusted so bad that they can no longer be called screws. I managed to get one screw loose but the other three will not budge and will get stripped even worse if I continue to force them out.

Basically what I am wondering if we can order just the screws...anybody know? Although I suppose I could just drill them out and re-thread the holes..

[Laser Blue]

Took the EGR off about five minutes ago which was easy but the four screws that attached the the two pieces together was not. Three of the screws were rusted so bad that they can no longer be called screws. I managed to get one screw loose but the other three will not budge and will get stripped even worse if I continue to force them out.

Basically what I am wondering if we can order just the screws...anybody know? Although I suppose I could just drill them out and re-thread the holes..

I had the same problem. I used an EZ-Out to remove the screws and bought new ones at Home Depot. The screws aren't that specialized. Just use your one good one for reference and buy new ones the same size. 50 cents max...

[b_dues]

Oh yeah? Alright that sounds good, it's always been a nightmare for me in the past to try and match thread pitch and whatnot but i'll give it a try. Thanks for the info.

[jonnyp86]

hey guys have you ever came across the screws in the egr wont come out or have broken on you? cause im having that probelm with mine. any help would be great guys

[Laser Blue]

It helps if you read this thread.... lots of folks have the problem. Soak them with PB Blaster and then, if the heads strip out, remove them with an EZ-Out and replace them after cleaning when you re-assemble the EGR.

[Boston5761]

anyone measure pin resistance?

[Boston5761]

which way does the gasket go

[b_dues]

points away from you

[TDiLisio]

Isn't the internet a wonderful resource? Thanks to this thread I was able to get my 2002 Protege LX running much better. It started running rough at idle, cutting off while sitting at stop lights, slow accelerator response and the gas pedal was kinda sticking when I wanted to go.

I read every post in this thread, went to AutoZone and bought the recommended tools (plus a couple just because)... The 3/8" and 1/4" drive flexhead ratchet were knuckle savers. Fortunately I had a T25 Security bit because I didn't find one of those at AZ. I put the car in the garage Friday eve, turned the heater on and started prepping the car for a Service Saturday.

I removed the intake/throttle body hose/tube/bellows thingy and found that it was dry rotted and cracked. Someone posted on this thread that those things are hard to find... and they rigged it with silicone and duct tape. I gobbed the black silicone adhesive/sealant around the ribs on the tube and let it dry overnight. For added measure I wrapped some plastic wrap and then duct tape. Then I took the battery out and cleared the path to see what I was up against. I sprayed the bolts and screws with the PB Blaster to soak overnight.
The bolts on the EGR came out with little problem. I put it in the vise, soaked the screws with more PB Blaster and wire brushed the gunk out of the screw heads. I used a good quality screw driver (#2) and slowly broke each one loose. Only one came close to stripping. Just soaked it a little more and used a lot of pressure while unscrewing... and it broke loose. Whew... don't need to worry about fixing that. The plunger moved up and down but stuck a little in places... so I soaked it in throttle body cleaner got a new flux brush out and cleaned the inards. I used a little engine oil (synthetic) to lube the shaft.

I took the Idle solenoid off and cleaned and lightly lubed it, That didn't look too bad... and didn't seem to be sticking.

The throttle was sticking closed because of carbon build up around the butterfly. So... in a moment of genius, I put the red spray hose on the can of throttle body cleaner, propped the butterfly open with a scrap of wood, and started spraying. Then I heard a pfftt and... shit... where the damn red hose thingy go. Yep... right down into the intake manifold. I tried my grabber thingy.. no go. Tried my vacuum cleaner only to see it disappear deeper into the bowels of the intake manifold... crap.... I could no longer see it. I had to rig a flexible attachment to the vacuum and after lots of cussing and 45 minutes got the damn red hose thingy out. Then I proceeded to finish cleaning the throttle body with cleaner and a wire brush (and no red hose thingy this time). Excellent... no more stickiness.

I put the EGR back in from the underside of the car. Seemed to be more working room at that angle. Then put the rest of the crap back together cleaning and lubricating as I went. I changed the oil and filter since it was on jack stands already. I took it for a test drive and (knock on wood) she runs a lot better.

I was thinking it's about time to get a new car because after 294K miles she might be done. After seeing the prices of new cars and fretting about paying $400-$600 monthly payment (and be well out of warranty by the time it's paid for) I figured I could bust a few knuckles and get plenty of band-aids and neosporin for that money. I'd like to see her get another 100K... so time will tell.

It took me about 8 hours because I'm getting old and have learned to take my time and do it right, eat when I'm supposed to, let the dogs out, do a little work on the computer and take several coffee breaks. I don't bust as many knuckles when I take my time. So for me it was well worth taking the time to read each post, get the right tools.

Thank you all that posted the pics and how to'.

[StealthWyvern]

^ - Getting old and still don’t know how to use paragraphs…..? Either way I’m glad it brought new life to your car and everything worked out.

[marquezoom]

ok, im a noob. I am trying to find this on my '03 p5. Just for clarification, I lift off the intake (black palstic, with hoses going to the airbox, etc.) and I should find this EGR unit? on a side note, where can I find a book/shop manual for this car?

Thnx for any help!

[PGFracing]

It's inbetween the engine and the firewall basically. I don't remember having to remove anything last time I did it. I just basically just removed the egr valve. It's hard to reach but it only takes about 5 minutes to take off and 5 minutes to put back on once you know what your looking for. This is if you have air tools and a universal joint. If you don't have air tools it could take half hour to hour to remove the bolts depending on your angle and hand size. Same with putting it back on.

[marquezoom]

It's inbetween the engine and the firewall basically. I don't remember having to remove anything last time I did it. I just basically just removed the egr valve. It's hard to reach but it only takes about 5 minutes to take off and 5 minutes to put back on once you know what your looking for. This is if you have air tools and a universal joint. If you don't have air tools it could take half hour to hour to remove the bolts depending on your angle and hand size. Same with putting it back on.

Thanx PGF, I found it and it only took me 10 minutes to get it out. The one thing that took me a while longer was getting it back together, forgot how the 2 pieces came apart. but it is in now and I am cleaning my K&N air filter right now. I did a clutch this last weekend on this thing, and afterwards it was running really rough...so hopefully this fixes it.

I have a mazda 6 (2007) 4cyl. as well, that died while turning a corner, could this be the same thing? CEL was on, changed the gas cap, but it never went away. Had to get the autozone folks to let me "erase" the code, but I remember when doing the lookup it talked about a stuck egr valve....

[Keewee89]

Ok, I'm totally new to all this and my 2003 Protege has had idle issues and I've been wanting to get to this EGR valve forever!!!! Today I mistakenly took out the Throttle Body thinking that was the EGR... I felt like an idiot 3 hours later. So I was able to see the EGR valve much more easily and had a go at it, but the two 12mm bolts wouldn't budge, it was too tight of a area to even have a good pull with the wrench. I see the older gentleman took out his intake and throttle body to get to it, would all that be necessary or just the throttle? I really need some tips on how to budge two 12mm bolts.. they are super tight... and in a weird spot.

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x126/Keewee89/mms_picture2.jpg

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x126/Keewee89/mms_picture1.jpg

[repthemazdas]

hey do u know where its located at on 1.6l

[Laser Blue]

I didn't have to remove the throttle body (and neither did you(shady)) but it did help to remove the battery and battery tray. Made it much easier to get at the bolts (with a small 1/4" drive breaker bar and socket).

[Keewee89]

I'll definitely try that mid next week.

[Keewee89]

Awesome, taking the battery and rack out helped a lot, still had trouble with the two 12mm bolts though. Got it out cleaned it, which is wasnt that bad so I didn't get much end result, but a little better :D

Also replaced my rotors, spark plugs, spark plug boots, and spark plug wires while I was at it.


http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x126/Keewee89/mms_picture1-1.jpg

[Sharki]

how the fuck to you remove these bolts? i got one but the other far one is impossible...

[808mazdap5]

how the fuck to you remove these bolts? i got one but the other far one is impossible...

i was able to get it off. i use a small 1/4 drive ratchet and a 12mm socket. took some muscle to brake it loose.
while i was at it i decided to paint the plastic solenoid red just for the hell of it

[R-X-R]

Hellu Everyone, I Want To Add some stuff to this "How To" maybe someone have mentioned in this long thread but here it is. If you are going to clean ur EGR you wont be complete unless you clean the hole that goes from EGR to Manifold. I was surprised when my car's hole :D was almost built up with carbon. It will be wise to remove the TB and blast some carb cleaner through the hole while the EGR is out so it can come out from their. Here are Some pic.

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz358/R-X-R/Car%20Stuffs/DSC04345.jpg
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz358/R-X-R/Car%20Stuffs/DSC04348.jpg
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz358/R-X-R/Car%20Stuffs/DSC04346.jpg

[02Protege'5]

Dude those pics are GREAT, may I ask how in the holy fuck did u take them? I thought I was going to need a double jointed spider monkey to get my EGR off, much less be up in there snapping awesome pictures!

[R-X-R]

if u are asking me, just a 3/8 with a 12mm socket long or shallow with 2" extension.

[SoonP5ismine]

ya removing the battery and air intake hose is a must also.

[slavrenz]

Dude those pics are GREAT, may I ask how in the holy fuck did u take them? I thought I was going to need a double jointed spider monkey to get my EGR off, much less be up in there snapping awesome pictures!

Those are not pictures looking up from the EGR valve, they're just looking into the intake manifold with the throttle body taken off. The EGR valve would be sitting below the hole that you see in those pictures.

[FLSilverP5]

I have been searching this thread for a while. Are there instructions on how to remove the throttle body to clean it? Or can you just spray a little TB cleaner in there? It is all taken apart, waiting for an answer b4 i put it back together. Also are there any clear signs that the egr should be replaced? the valve opens and the spring doesnt stick.

[SoonP5ismine]

I have been searching this thread for a while. Are there instructions on how to remove the throttle body to clean it? Or can you just spray a little TB cleaner in there? It is all taken apart, waiting for an answer b4 i put it back together. Also are there any clear signs that the egr should be replaced? the valve opens and the spring doesnt stick.
in my case the engine would stall at traffic lights when my egr valve was bad. basically erratic engine rpm is a good sign its bad. carb cleaner should be enough to clean your throttle body.

[Nooraelad]

Just adding myself to the countless that this post has helped. If you've flipped to the end for help, just read the first few pages as most of my questions were answered there.

For me, removing the air intake completely helped. Also, having a small 1/4" drive rachet really helped. Lastly - and can't stress this enough - make sure you clean the throttlebody! This is most necessary around the inlet from the throttlebody to the EGR.

My idle issues and stalling issues are fixed.

Thanks!

[LEXi73]

I've been having issues with my idle also. Autozone confirmed a bad o2 sensor and insufficient flow from EGR. I replaced the o2 sensor and removed and (tried to) clean my EGR valve. How clean is everyone getting theirs? Mine, like others, would not open. After soaking with brakleen for a while and rinsing it out repeatedly it finally opened a little. Oiled and moved the valve and repeated several times to where it was moving but it was hard to do so. Replaced everything and my idle is still having problems. Should it open and close easily? Should i replace it totally?

About 82k on the car without any previous knowledge of the EGR getting cleaned.

EDIT:

Ok so i may have pre-maturely posted... I unhooked the battery yo clear the code and there is rumor of a ~50mile distance for the computer to adjust things? is that correct? I've drove about 5 miles since the cleaning/battery reconnection.

[SoonP5ismine]

I've been having issues with my idle also. Autozone confirmed a bad o2 sensor and insufficient flow from EGR. I replaced the o2 sensor and removed and (tried to) clean my EGR valve. How clean is everyone getting theirs? Mine, like others, would not open. After soaking with brakleen for a while and rinsing it out repeatedly it finally opened a little. Oiled and moved the valve and repeated several times to where it was moving but it was hard to do so. Replaced everything and my idle is still having problems. Should it open and close easily? Should i replace it totally?

About 82k on the car without any previous knowledge of the EGR getting cleaned.

EDIT:

Ok so i may have pre-maturely posted... I unhooked the battery yo clear the code and there is rumor of a ~50mile distance for the computer to adjust things? is that correct? I've drove about 5 miles since the cleaning/battery reconnection.

my egr valve cleaning only lasted about 1000 miles and i did what you did except i spent a whole day doing the soaking and degreasing and then oiling it up. in my opinion cleaning doesnt solve the problem. after cleaning mine it crapped out after a 1000 miles i decided to get a new one and the new one was redesigned and is now at 60000 miles while original lasted only 50000. also when you do this kind of maintenance you should unplug the battery so ecu has time to clear.

[slavrenz]

I've been having issues with my idle also. Autozone confirmed a bad o2 sensor and insufficient flow from EGR. I replaced the o2 sensor and removed and (tried to) clean my EGR valve. How clean is everyone getting theirs? Mine, like others, would not open. After soaking with brakleen for a while and rinsing it out repeatedly it finally opened a little. Oiled and moved the valve and repeated several times to where it was moving but it was hard to do so. Replaced everything and my idle is still having problems. Should it open and close easily? Should i replace it totally?

About 82k on the car without any previous knowledge of the EGR getting cleaned.

EDIT:

Ok so i may have pre-maturely posted... I unhooked the battery yo clear the code and there is rumor of a ~50mile distance for the computer to adjust things? is that correct? I've drove about 5 miles since the cleaning/battery reconnection.

It's not a rumor - it's basic OBDII fact. When you disconnect the battery, the car has to "relearn" the previous driveability settings that were stored in the computer. It does usually take about 50 miles. Until then, you may get a bouncy or low idle, but if things don't improve, just replace the EGR valve.

[ucMP3]

my egr valve cleaning only lasted about 1000 miles and i did what you did except i spent a whole day doing the soaking and degreasing and then oiling it up. in my opinion cleaning doesnt solve the problem. after cleaning mine it crapped out after a 1000 miles i decided to get a new one and the new one was redesigned and is now at 60000 miles while original lasted only 50000. also when you do this kind of maintenance you should unplug the battery so ecu has time to clear.

You shouldn't oil it back up.... That's just gonna gum it up faster. (hand)

[Boston5761]

what is the part number for the revised egr?

[SoonP5ismine]

what is the part number for the revised egr?
part # i dont have but i have pics here -> http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2643171&postcount=263

[LEXi73]

yeah I'm at about 70 miles now without any changes...The CEL cam back on so i'll get that checked and then determine the next move...most likely a new EGR.

[02Protege'5]

That new spec one will eventually fail as well, if you want a true lasting fix go for the candian spec one. It runs hot coolant through the housing of the EGR to dissipate moisture inside the valve chamber.

[SoonP5ismine]

That new spec one will eventually fail as well, if you want a true lasting fix go for the candian spec one. It runs hot coolant through the housing of the EGR to dissipate moisture inside the valve chamber.
egr valve with coolant in and out? how is that gonna work on us version without a way to have coolant go in there?

[StealthWyvern]

egr valve with coolant in and out? how is that gonna work on us version without a way to have coolant go in there?

Search and you will find your answer...

Edit: Here is a tip search for threads started by TheMAN and you will find the answer to your question.

[SoonP5ismine]

for those of you who want to know about the egr valve witrh coolant in it go here http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123732861 in my opinion this design is just another way to have a coolant leak. although it makes sense to have a design like this you are adding a potential problem while helping another problem.

[ucMP3]

for those of you who want to know about the egr valve witrh coolant in it go here http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123732861 in my opinion this design is just another way to have a coolant leak. although it makes sense to have a design like this you are adding a potential problem while helping another problem.

What? just run the lines properly and it won't leak... You have coolant lines everywhere already, they don't leak do they? (hand)

[b_dues]

Did someone say that the Canadian ones have coolant lines, because mine doesn't have coolant lines..?

[ucMP3]

Did someone say that the Canadian ones have coolant lines, because mine doesn't have coolant lines..?

Ya, Canadian (original VIN Canadian) P5's should have a different EGR. With 2-3 coolant lines routed in & out.

[Howster]

Is resetting the ECM as simple as disconnecting the battery?

[Pmpkinhead]

Is resetting the ECM as simple as disconnecting the battery?

Then step on the brake to discharge the remaining power.

[02Protege'5]

or take the positive and negative terminal off and hold them together for a few seconds

[SoonP5ismine]

or take the positive and negative terminal off and hold them together for a few seconds
I would never do this as there may be capacitors installed for amplifiers and those could get damaged or blow a fuse if you short them. stepping on the brake or turning on the lights should be enough to drain whatever is left.

[02Protege'5]

ok, so as long as you don't have a capacitor installed, you can do this. I don't, and do it all the time with no ill effects.




I would never do this as there may be capacitors installed for amplifiers and those could get damaged or blow a fuse if you short them. stepping on the brake or turning on the lights should be enough to drain whatever is left.

[jlt012]

I just cleaned my egr, but I still have a rough idle.. I am not sure if it is the same problem everyone else is having. When I am sitting at a light it will kick sometimes, and during acceleration up to about 25mph it hesitates. I don't have an unusually high or low idle it just kicks. Any ideas where to start to fix this? Oh and I am not throwing any codes.

[b_dues]

Do you have a boost gauge? If not, get one. Your vac should read at about 23, if not you have a leak. Check your waste gate by blowing into the line that goes into the waste gate. If you can pass air through it then the diaphragm is toast and you need a new one, and that is your problem. If not, check for leaks in all of the vac lines. There may be a crack or a loose connection in a vac line or a coupler along the tubing from the intercooler and turbo and throttle body. If you are running stock plastic pipes, check the hot pipe which goes from the top of the side mount intercooler to the turbo. The connection there sometimes dislodges.

[damaster]

I just cleaned my egr, but I still have a rough idle.. I am not sure if it is the same problem everyone else is having. When I am sitting at a light it will kick sometimes, and during acceleration up to about 25mph it hesitates. I don't have an unusually high or low idle it just kicks. Any ideas where to start to fix this? Oh and I am not throwing any codes.

Two things to check or replace:
1) Do you have one or multiple amps running when this happens? They could be putting a very heavy load on your electrical system. If not you should get your alternator checked out. It may not be providing sufficient current constantly.

2) Replace your ignition coils and spark plug wires. I had the same problem as you even after cleaning the shit out of my EGR twice and once in a while my car would even throw cylinder misfire CELs. I replaced my wires with NGK and ignition coils with BWD and my car is silky smooth. On a related note, my oil consumption has also been reduced dramatically but it may be too premature to say for sure.

[POLARBEARsMP3]

just done mine today man what a difference

[xtrmnop]

Great write up. Did this on my 99 Protege LX Auto and huge improvement. Resolved my idle issue whenever I put it in Reverse. Life saver. Driven over 50 miles so far and check engine light hasn't turned back on. Hope it stays off.

[BeefSupreme]

Thanks for the write up! I bought an 03 protege5 w/90k on it. Had all belts changed several weeks after purchasing, drove for a couple weeks. Changed air filter and plugs and started getting misfires with code P0300 shortly after. It took me long enough to figure out what was going on that I started getting code P0421 too. Tried to clean the EGR and noticed misfires were fewer and far between, but still happening. Swapped in a new one and no more misfires and no more P0300. But P0421 was still getting thrown. I sucked it up and swapped out the first cat this weekend. The old cat was melted from all the misfiring. So far - no codes and it's driving much smoother when warm. I'm still having the hesitant acceleration that jlt012 mentioned above when the engine is cold. It kicks at ~2800 rpm in the first 3 gears. I hope this isn't yet another issue!

Lesson: P0300 getting thrown? Clean or swap the EGR like NOW!

[BeefSupreme]

You gotta be flipping kidding me. My PR5 misfired again this morning, 5 days after I changed the first cat. And probably a month after I replaced the EGR. Code P0300. WTH?

[Naught1]

The screws aren't made of swiss cheese, they're just not meant for your tool.

To open the EGR valve, or remove the IAC for that matter, purchase a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) bit set. All of the phillips screws on a Mazda are NOT technically phillips-head screws, they're JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard), which requires a wider, less pointy bit to avoid stripping out the head. JIS bits are almost square at the tip, so on these screws they'll engage the screw head completely. Use your normal, North American Phillips screwdriver, and it'll work only if the screw isn't fully torqued down, or isn't oxidized in place. Either way the JIS bits are a great investment of a few bucks to save a whole bunch of time working on Japanese vehicles (especially motorcycles).

I picked up mine at a local tool discounter- got a set that included and hex bits, and have never looked back.

I strongly suspect that many of the users reporting trouble a few thousand miles after cleaning the EGR are victims of this difference in screwdrivers. It won't let torque the screw down as far as it should go, and you'll get leaks.

[Aralliius]

dose this work the same on the mazdaspeed6??

[arb124]

Hey guys, I have had problems with my 2005 for about a week now, brought it in to Crappy Tire and they did a scan on the car and they couldn't find any problem with it. They couldn't get it to stall, (didn't help they kept it in the garage for an hour idling - after i told them it would stall during a slow down to a stop.

Brought it to my parents mechanic and saw from all these threads that the T/B was probably dirty. He took it apart, said it was dirty and cleaned it. No more stalling but now i'm getting iradic idling from 80-50km/h until it either comes to third gear or I slow it right down (by stopping)

Does anyone know what I could do to fix the problem. Should I try to disconnect the black cable or do I have to bring it in somewhere. I"m not mechanically inclined. Thanks.

[jbrewer4639]

someone please help me out(help)

6. Lube the shaft inside with a drop or two of oil (what kind of oil?) and also lube the outside beneath the spring.

7. Reassembly is the reverse of removal. I suggest resetting the PCM(what is this?) while doing this, so the EGR can readjust after you start it.

[ralphyralph5]

someone please help me out(help)

6. Lube the shaft inside with a drop or two of oil (what kind of oil?) and also lube the outside beneath the spring.

7. Reassembly is the reverse of removal. I suggest resetting the PCM(what is this?) while doing this, so the EGR can readjust after you start it.


*2 drops of Motor oil

*The pcm is the car's computer... reset it by disconnecting the battery and pressing the brake pedal for 30 seconds in order to completely drain the car(electrically)

[ralphyralph5]

Good write up! Just finished after 4 hours... tedious is an understatement!!

My car(automatic) was bucking like bull when I hit the gas!! And near stalling at stop signs/traffic lights... So, I did everything to solve the problem and now she runs like new!!

Here's what i did:
1. Replaced PCV Valve
2. Cleaned EGR Valve
3. Cleaned MAF Sensor
4. Repaired leak in intake hose.

I don't know what the problem was but its running perfect now. I didn't have the proper Torx bit to remove the IAC and clean it but I will do that this weekend.

P.S. Seafoam's Deep Creep is amazing at loosening rusted bolts!! Highly recommended! Definitely worth $11...

[bazooka joe]

so last nov i go an intermittent p0140 for the egr valve...i kind of ignored it until last week i get the a new flashing cel p0300 and the car goes way lean and it's almost un driveable...i shut her down restart it, runs fine...so after it doing it a few more times i said screw it, once i cleared the code and the car was running fine i disconnected the elect connector and the car runs fine again...i'll leave it off for now and replace the egr this summer after i take her off the road.

[MAKRAA]

thank you muchly cant wait to try it <3

[cryptic]

Got a 2000 Protege DX here. CEL is on (will pull codes tomorrow) and I have a sneaking suspension it is the EGR. While I don't get a rough idle with stall, I am definitely getting some serious "bucking" in first gear. In order to avoid this bucking, I need to let off the clutch very slowly while giving it a lot of gas. There also seems to be a loss of engine power when this happens. Is this the clutch or is it that damn EGR valve?

[Laser03pro]

Got a 2000 Protege DX here. CEL is on (will pull codes tomorrow) and I have a sneaking suspension it is the EGR. While I don't get a rough idle with stall, I am definitely getting some serious "bucking" in first gear. In order to avoid this bucking, I need to let off the clutch very slowly while giving it a lot of gas. There also seems to be a loss of engine power when this happens. Is this the clutch or is it that damn EGR valve?

Does the engine run any warmer could that could be the converter also.

[cryptic]

Does the engine run any warmer could that could be the converter also.

Does not run warmer - if anything it runs cool. What do you guys think?

[Pmpkinhead]

Does not run warmer - if anything it runs cool. What do you guys think?

How many miles on the clutch? Stock? Any slippage in 5th gear at 60MPH under full throttle?

[cryptic]

How many miles on the clutch? Stock? Any slippage in 5th gear at 60MPH under full throttle?

Clutch is about 30K. Stock. No slippage.

[dimkatz]

I wonder if there is a way to create a carbon filter in order to avoid dismantling the EGR....

[ProjectBlack]

Awesome! Thank you!

[Robb]

Hi all,

I'm new here, just been having some idle problems in my 323.. I figured it might be my EGR, but upon inspection, it seems to have been removed by the previous owner? can someone confirm to make sure I'm not crazy?
I guess it will be time to consider other possibilities, it drives fine, but at idle it sounds terrible and really rough...

[Car Jumky]

I took the EGR valve off of the valve cover to clean it, since I had a rough idle and an occasional stall. I soaked it in carb cleaner, and since there were no broken parts, I put it back on with no issues. After cleaning the EGR valve, the car just started running smoother, and I could notice a very big difference in its idle.

[QuIcK WhIp]

I removed and cleaned mine today and reset the PCM and it made such a big difference, just be careful with the 4 phillips head screws on the top b/c one of mine striped out and had to use vise grips to get off. This job is simple and easy to do!! Now I don't have to play with the gas pedal to keep the rpm's up. Great post and very informative, I suggest doing this to anyone with the same prob with rough idle b/c you'll definately tell the difference. Thanks 122 Vega!!

[sarsbars]

So a little over a year ago I had extreme issues with my EGR (car completely died at every stop). I took it to my mechanic (this was before I knew about the EGR issues) and he had it fixed in no time. On his report it said EGR was stuck open so he cleaned it. (Unfortunately, he has gone out of business and I have moved to a different state. )

It had been running fine ever since - until last month. Whenever I let off of the gas at 50-60mph with 3k RPMs my RPMs would drop quickly to 2500 and the car would lurch. Then when I put my foot back on the gas the tach needle would quiver and the car would shake a little bit. All I did to make it stop was give it a little extra gas. Then one morning the check engine light came on, so I got the code read and it was EGR. Thankfully my boyfriend's a huge car man and he decided to take on the challenge of cleaning my EGR. It appeared that the main issue was that the spring was sticking. We finally got it to stop sticking and he reassembled my car. I took it for a spin and have been driving it a lot and everything seems to be working fine.

Now a month later it's starting to do the same lurching at higher speeds. Today my check engine light came back on and it's EGR again.

The boy thinks I should just sell the car, but I just can't bear to part with it.


So basically my questions are, is it worth it to completely replace the EGR? Or will I be having the issue again? Also, are there any other parts I should have cleaned or replaced that might be causing this issue? And in the future, how can I stop this from happening?!!

(I know that these questions are probably answered throughout this thread, but I really don't want to read through 73 pages to find them!)

Thanks!

[Sport23]

Your best bet is a Candian EGR. It will last the longest out of any available parts. Check out The Man's thread here (http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123732861-Canadian-EGR-valve-exposed).

For sale on Rock Auto (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1416822&parttype=4968) (middle one)

Canadian EGR on Ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SMP-STANDARD-EGV1124-EGR-Valve-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZalgoQ3dLVIQ26ituQ3dUC IQ26otnQ3d5Q26poQ3dLVIQ26psQ3d63Q26clkidQ3d1619510 274949892329QQ_trksidZp5197Q2em7QQitemZ39033305397 8#ht_1393wt_1166)

Another Canadian EGR (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Standard-Motor-Products-EGV1124-EGR-Valve-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZalgoQ3dLVIQ26ituQ3dUC IQ26otnQ3d5Q26poQ3dLVIQ26psQ3d63Q26clkidQ3d1619511 367482114605QQ_trksidZp5197Q2em7QQitemZ29057453199 6#ht_1407wt_940)

[Jordysoso]

When I start my car, sometimes my engine idles really rough. Sputters but never dies. I have an auto. Could this be egr needing cleaned? Could it also cause my CEL of a cylinder 3 misfire?

[SoonP5ismine]

thats what i kept getting when mine went bad. usually got it after engine was hot and i suddenly pulled up to a traffic light at a highway exit. never really had a problem cold. my code was multiple cylinder misfire. but that could have been the odb2 code reader difference. it sounds like egr if its fairly consistent regardless of which brand of gas you use.

[Jordysoso]

Yeah I use 89 octane and it happens no matter what. Replaced everything ignition related. It's prevalent when motor is warm and started up, my bad on the typo. Sitting at a stop light, the idle will bump around between 100-600 rpm, usually rests at 400 eventually. Hoping to clean this maybe tomorrow if possible. And hopefully it fixes my problems.

[SoonP5ismine]

ya sounds like it. also seeing that your car is 2003 you may also have a cracked intake hose (the fat one going to the air filter box) as i have recently discovered that caused my car to rough idle too. I did the original egr valave cleaning few years ago and early on in this thread i posted my not so great results (rough idle returned after 1100 miles and had to buy a new redesigned egr valve which til this day outlasted my original one by about 25K). but your cleaning may succeed so i would try that as new egr valves now are about 150$ and gasket about 15$

[Jordysoso]

I have a custom metal intake so the tears wouldn't be a problem :P and an AEM dryflow filter. I'll try the cleaning first. Anything other than brake Kleen that you'd recommend? Btw what is the function of the egr valve? As I have heard of ppl doin egr deletes so I was just curious. I don't plan on doing the delete by any means.

[SoonP5ismine]

it helps with emissions reduction and only at cruise rpms thats why we only notice problems when engine is idle if valve is stuck open. this article is pretty detailed of how it works http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/egr.htm

[Jordysoso]

Ok thanks man I'll check it out and hopefully it fixes my problems!

[Jordysoso]

So is there any special way to get to these bolts? Strut tower bar and battery are out and intake is out. Any ideas? I got too many cables in the way

[mdenis]

Hopefully not too off topic. I was removing the air intake hose to expose the EGR but when I removed the sensor/valve(?) protruding from the top of the hose I snapped one of the plastic inlets...can someone tell me what the part is that I now need to replace? my best guess is IAC valve...the best image that I could find is in this video where the guy refers to it as a sensor: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Som1GMsNs0

Thanks!

[Teseract]

I cleaned the EGR on my '98 1.5L Protege today, having the fun rough idle and low idle (~500rpm). It also had no power below 2500rpm, then after it hit 2500rpm it would take off. I also replaced the EGR valve gasket, the PCV valve and grommet, and the throttle body gasket.

It seemed to smooth out the idle on the initial startup, idling right around 800rpm, jumping slightly when the fans kicked on (load on the alternator). "Perfect" I thought, and shut it down and went and changed clothes to go for a test drive.

I get in, the $!@$@# thing now idles at 1900rpm. Every boy racer in town wants to race me because they think I have the revs up to launch it or something.

I guess I get to take this thing apart for the third friggin time, I already replaced the IAC trying to fix the idle problems this thing has. At least it got rid of the code, even if it still idles like crap.

Probably have a vacuum leak someplace... sigh.

I thought foreign cars were supposed to be reliable? My domestic truck has 30k more miles on it and I've never had to diddle with it's EGR valve or IAC. IAC on my truck is $35, IAC on this thing is over $230!

[Teseract]

So I drove my reliable vehicle today to assist a friend in yard work, and when I got home I started the Protege up for kicks to see if I could tell why it was idling so high. Of course now it idles fine. WTF? This car is possessed...

[grover211]

thanx for the awesome post!! ive had this problem for a month since changing my head gasket and replacing the head.... right after i read this i went out to the car to find the egr valve, which is right where u said, then i saw a plug hanging there and thought where the hell does that go... its a plug on the throttle body lol... car idles fine now!! wouldnt have found it if not for looking for the egr valve... Thanx!!!

[Crafty Panther]

I cleaned the EGR on my '98 1.5L Protege today, having the fun rough idle and low idle (~500rpm). It also had no power below 2500rpm, then after it hit 2500rpm it would take off. I also replaced the EGR valve gasket, the PCV valve and grommet, and the throttle body gasket.

It seemed to smooth out the idle on the initial startup, idling right around 800rpm, jumping slightly when the fans kicked on (load on the alternator). "Perfect" I thought, and shut it down and went and changed clothes to go for a test drive.

I get in, the $!@$@# thing now idles at 1900rpm. Every boy racer in town wants to race me because they think I have the revs up to launch it or something.

I guess I get to take this thing apart for the third friggin time, I already replaced the IAC trying to fix the idle problems this thing has. At least it got rid of the code, even if it still idles like crap.

Probably have a vacuum leak someplace... sigh.

I thought foreign cars were supposed to be reliable? My domestic truck has 30k more miles on it and I've never had to diddle with it's EGR valve or IAC. IAC on my truck is $35, IAC on this thing is over $230!

I have exactly the same issues, only they are still happening with the egr unplugged. Is it safe to assume the IAC? I'm also going to bleed the coolant this weekend to see if I have air in there that's causing issues

[roenick778]

I didn't see the step about resetting the PCM before I tore mine all apart, what does PCM stand for and how do you reset it?

[SoonP5ismine]

its the thing in the car that generates the error code or what most of us know it as a CEL (check engine light). there is a good chance that you already reset it because to get to the egr valve you need to take the battery out.

[roenick778]

Ok, so here is where i am at with what i have done to my 2002 p5, it was showing all the signs of the stumbling on acceleration and the occasional rough idle at times. The car has 111,000 on it now. i started by simply replacing the spark plugs, the car seemed to run better for about a week, then back to the stumbling on acceleration again returned. Next i changed the plug wires i bought at the dealer ( expensive) didnt seem to do anything. Next after looking at hunderds of posts on the subjcet on this very awesome site i figure up next is a cleaning of the egr valve. i just completed that ( and the how to on this was AWESOME!) and it seems to run much smoother, but i did still notice a occasinal "spike" in the rpms at idle. my next question is, if this has solved the problem should i spend the money to replace the coil packs? i ask this because reading thru all the the posts on this subject i saw a mention or 2 of this should be done or it could ruin the cat converter. The dealer wanted tons of money for the coil packs ( i think it was 150 -200 of memory serves me right) if i should replace these next as just a precaution just to not damage the cat, can i get by with non oem's , Kragen has these really cheap compared to the dealer I i think it was like $40. i want to be done with all this screwing around with trying to fix this and i also dont have deep pockets to throw unnecessary money at this car either, but at the same time i dont want to ruin a cat because i didnt replace the coil packs...Opinions???

[big Lou]

If you would feel better just buy the coil packs from Kragen... I wouldn't believe half the stuff the dealer tells you! They are crocks! well most of them! As for the cat, if it get ruined just replace it with an aftermarket one. If it's the one in the header, just buy an aftermarket header and an o2 fouler and you will never have to worry about a primary cat ever again!

[80sGuy]

Try Seafoaming the car, it's a quick and $8 fix! I have a 2000 with 140,000 on the dial and she's as good as new after having it cleaned, but hen I've also done my regular maintenance. Also, if you haven't replace the coils it doesn't hurt either, as your car gets older it's part of maintenance.

[roenick778]

I appreciate the reply to my post, i actually trust the dealer i go to for the most part, but that wasnt really the issue here, i was just saying based on what i read here that not replacing the coil packs could cause the cat to fail. I dont really want to start replacing stuff on this car , as im not that great at diagnising stuff nor repairing stuff either. I am pretty much at my limit with doing something like pulling the egr valve and cleaning it, and the only reason i was probably able to do that was because of the step by step write up with pictures. I really dont want to go donw the road of replacing the cat or the header or 02 fouler ( since i have little to no idea how to diagnose these issues or even know where to start or replacing any of the above mentioned stuff.) Im not the type that does alot of stuff on my cars , but can do somethings when necessary. I am also guessing that replacing a header is not only expensive , but probably more involved than what i would like to get into in the first place.

[roenick778]

Try Seafoaming the car, it's a quick and $8 fix! I have a 2000 with 140,000 on the dial and she's as good as new after having it cleaned, but hen I've also done my regular maintenance. Also, if you haven't replace the coils it doesn't hurt either, as your car gets older it's part of maintenance.


I am starting to think i am doing more harm than good by doing some/ all of the things i have read here. Having said that i thnk the weak link here is my abilites/ comfort level on doing things to my car. I remember seeing some of the posts about seafoam, but i think i rember seeing some that this could cause problems too?? Meaning it did more damage than good also. I didnt really read enough of those to even know what the process is for doing that anyways. This forum can be great, but i feel like there is maybe just too many people just trying to tell other people do this or do that to solve a problem, when each problem is specific to THAT persons car. My point is what worked on someone elses car may actually cause problems on someone elses car, without finding truly what any given problem someone is trying to resolve. I appreciate your input, and plaese dont think i am flaming you for your response, because i am not. i think what needs to be taken into account here is that everyone has a different level of comfort with doing stuff to their cars. My comfort level isnt as high as most of the other posters based on some of the responses i have read. I think in this case i have done many of the things i have read here and the problem still exists, i am starting to think that there are varying levels of why the Proteges do this and trying to track down what MY car is doing isnt as easy as just doing some/ most of the things i read here.

[80sGuy]

^^I understand. Whenever you Seafoam something whether it be your lawnmower, car or boat, it very crucial that you have the oil change right away because you don't want the deposits (sludge) to go back to where it came from. Rules when Seafoaming:
1. Seafoam your car when you are ready for an oil change
2. Have less than a 1/4 tank of gas
3. Change your oil at once after Seafoaming.

Follow the instructions on the can, it is very easy...as a matter of fact it is so easy a caveman can do it.

[roenick778]

^^I understand. Whenever you Seafoam something whether it be your lawnmower, car or boat, it very crucial that you have the oil change right away because you don't want the deposits (sludge) to go back to where it came from. Rules when Seafoaming:
1. Seafoam your car when you are ready for an oil change
2. Have less than a 1/4 tank of gas
3. Change your oil at once after Seafoaming.

Follow the instructions on the can, it is very easy...as a matter of fact it is so easy a caveman can do it.

I appreciate the step by step instructions, I may just use those at some point if I decide to go that route. maybe I will get a insurance quote as well!(breakn)

[big Lou]

Please make own thread or stay on subject.

[80sGuy]

Please make own thread or stay on subject.I just Seafoamed my car today, again!

[big Lou]

Wrong thread.....

[80sGuy]

^^Right thread!!!
The guy had asked to see what was wrong with his car and thinks that one of the possibility might be his egr valve. He is not mechanically inclined to remove the egr so therefore SEAFOAMING might do him good. I had the same problem with my egr (not as bad as his) and I seafoamed the mofo and it has improved ever since. It could be a thousand other reasons, but $8 is not that big of a deal to throw away, plus cleaning up carbon build ups.

[big Lou]

Your right.. Just a lot of threads about seafoam... I should have re directed him.

[roenick778]

Your right.. Just a lot of threads about seafoam... I should have re directed him.

Wow seriously? My concern was that doing the egr cleaning didn't seem to help with the symptoms my car has, he simply suggested seafoam as another way to cure the symptoms that the egr cleaning didn't correct.Lighten up!

[big Lou]

I am lol the thread is about egr cleaning... I was suggesting starting your own thread in the car problems section and you would have more people helping u out instead of us two.... This thread had Been dea for a while.. Just making a suggestion to help you get to the root cause.. I'm all about helping people out...

[ClintG]

My idle speed droped to 705RPM when I put in the Hyperground system, but the engine has a very intermittant drop at idle and I think it may either be this or the in tank filter screen that may be the issue. Yours is a quicker to do, so I think I will try this before cracking open the gas tank and cleaning the screen/sock thing in one of the other posts. Thanks for the writeup.

[nilsonov]

So last week the rough idle started again and I had to clean the EGR (I've had to do it roughly once a year, or every 10k miles). This time though it was REALLY stuck open. I had to use pliers to force it closed even after letting it soak in Brake cleaner, then WD40, then some liquid wrench type stuff. At the end, and about an hour of scrubbin the little valve shaft for about an hour, I got it to where I could close/open it with my hands, but, I have not been able to clean it, (as I've had every other time) enough for the spring to close the valva back by itself.

Any suggestions on how to clean better before I drop another ~100 bucks on this car?

[nilsonov]

gave up cleaning the EGR and bought a new one. Have the old one up for sale on the parts section if anyone wants to have a got at it

[GNO]

I just wanted to bump this post up for the links Sport23 provides.

I have idling issues and while reading up to attempt to fix it, I kept seeing this thread pop up. Consequently, I recently cleaned my EGR valve as suggested in the initial post. The car worked well for a few days then started acting up again. I had problems with my scanner, so I wasn't able to pull up codes, but it feels like the EGR again. I almost ordered a replacement, then stumbled upon an old EGR valve in my garage. So I thought, "F***, I bought a new one years ago and am replacing it again. Before purchasing another EGR valve I thought, "this many years later, there has to be a revision." So I did a google search for "revised protege EGR valve" and found the thread that theMan started.

If you live in a cold climate, tired on cleaning your EGR valve, and plan on buying a new one, go with the Canadian EGR valve. I did a eBay and Amazon search for "EGV1124".


Your best bet is a Candian EGR. It will last the longest out of any available parts. Check out The Man's thread here (http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123732861-Canadian-EGR-valve-exposed).

For sale on Rock Auto (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1416822&parttype=4968) (middle one)

Canadian EGR on Ebay (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?campid=5336012636&toolid=10001&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F711-53200-19255-0%2F1%3Fcampid%3D5336012636%26toolid%3D10001%26mpr e%3Dhttp%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Febaymotors%2FSMP-STANDARD-EGV1124-EGR-Valve-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZalgoQ3dLVIQ26ituQ3dUC IQ26otnQ3d5Q26poQ3dLVIQ26psQ3d63Q26clkidQ3d1619510 274949892329QQ_trksidZp5197Q2em7QQitemZ39033305397 8%23ht_1393wt_1166)

Another Canadian EGR (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?campid=5336012636&toolid=10001&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F711-53200-19255-0%2F1%3Fcampid%3D5336012636%26toolid%3D10001%26mpr e%3Dhttp%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Febaymotors%2FStand ard-Motor-Products-EGV1124-EGR-Valve-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZalgoQ3dLVIQ26ituQ3dUC IQ26otnQ3d5Q26poQ3dLVIQ26psQ3d63Q26clkidQ3d1619511 367482114605QQ_trksidZp5197Q2em7QQitemZ29057453199 6%23ht_1407wt_940)

[tgee]

i have 1999 protege, Just a quick note that may be useful, i took mine off cleaned it as brilliantly descibed, ok for a short while, took off and replaced with new one (best to have a short 12mm wrench and undo bolt on passengers side from underneath)......only ok again 4 a short while then got really bad, gave in and took to a garage and they aparently just cleaned out the inlet from air filter by spraying in (i guess intake manifold cleaner) and it seems to have sorted tickover.
may be worth a try. cheers

[MP5stephen]

I removed my intake, battery and battery tray. What do you have to do to access the bolts to remove it? The angle it sits, and the location of the bolts make it near impossible to get with a 1/2 or 3/4 ratchet! I have tried combination's of extensions and adapters to reach it. It seems like a fuel line or something is in the way, it runs next to the bulk of wires over the transmission housing that's all taped up. What is the trick/secret?!

[GNO]

I removed my intake, battery and battery tray. What do you have to do to access the bolts to remove it? The angle it sits, and the location of the bolts make it near impossible to get with a 1/2 or 3/4 ratchet! I have tried combination's of extensions and adapters to reach it. It seems like a fuel line or something is in the way, it runs next to the bulk of wires over the transmission housing that's all taped up. What is the trick/secret?!

It's a lot easier if you remove the throttle body as well. I remove the tb and use a box end or gear wrench.

Without removing the throttle body, having a slim flex head ratchet like the one mentioned in this thread would make things easier.

[STM]

Thanks Britt. Going to try and do mine now in the dark. Desperate! lol!
STM

[zizaspeed]

Your best bet is a Candian EGR. It will last the longest out of any available parts. Check out The Man's thread here (http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123732861-Canadian-EGR-valve-exposed).

For sale on Rock Auto (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1416822&parttype=4968) (middle one)

Canadian EGR on Ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SMP-STANDARD-EGV1124-EGR-Valve-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZalgoQ3dLVIQ26ituQ3dUC IQ26otnQ3d5Q26poQ3dLVIQ26psQ3d63Q26clkidQ3d1619510 274949892329QQ_trksidZp5197Q2em7QQitemZ39033305397 8#ht_1393wt_1166)

Another Canadian EGR (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Standard-Motor-Products-EGV1124-EGR-Valve-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZalgoQ3dLVIQ26ituQ3dUC IQ26otnQ3d5Q26poQ3dLVIQ26psQ3d63Q26clkidQ3d1619511 367482114605QQ_trksidZp5197Q2em7QQitemZ29057453199 6#ht_1407wt_940)

Has anyone actually triedreplacing our egr with Canada one and have good results. Asking because like most people after cleaning it the problem is still there. I don't have any codes luckily but its just annoying

[big Lou]

Theman did I'll have to find the thread.

[StealthWyvern]

Theman did I'll have to find the thread.
i think thats in my how-to quick link.. ill check

Edit: Nope, wasn't in my quick links but here it is

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123732861-Canadian-EGR-valve-exposed

[zizaspeed]

Thanks guy, either of you have this idle issue?