How To: EGR Removal and Cleaning, Rough Idle Fix

[xDJ DUBx]

whoa

[Not Jo3L]

Here is the picture with the red marking showing where the leak was (smoke was coming out from there when I had the smoke machine hooked up). Theoretically it shouldn't allow any air through, since all the air needs to be accounted for by all the sensors. However, the design of this egr valve seems to be really crappy, so it almost seems like that they didn't really care about this issue (or maybe the amount of air coming through is negligible, I don't know).

I took the EGR off cleaned it as instructed by this thread, also took off the IAC and clean that as well. Put it all back, but engine still idles kinda rough and CEL comes back on. I guess I just need to get a new egr, just hope that the problem will go away after that.

I got one off my car I can let go to you for cheap. Just got to clean it out to run like a champ.

[DSlab]

I would be interested in getting that from you If you are sure the EGR is in good working condition. How come you don't need it anymore?

[Not Jo3L]

I would be interested in getting that from you If you are sure the EGR is in good working condition. How come you don't need it anymore?

I thought the EGR bolt was stripped and I was going to have to do something drastic to take it off. But when I pulled off the intake manifold to get a better go at it with the wrench it came right off. I purchased a used MSP EGR valve from a member to clean and put back on with zero down time waiting for the old EGR to clean.

PM me or something and I will send you pics and what not.

[xDJ DUBx]

help
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123723964

[Bradleygt]

hi. first post here.

i have a 02 mp5 and its been sitting for the last two years ever since i got my passat. i just never got around to driving it because it needed a few things here and there to be fixed, but finally, my wife needed it for work so i got on the ball and got it running. i changed the front rotors and pads, new battery, and she was good to go. took it and had it inspected and it passed, no problems. this was on saturday. now, starting on sunday, the check engine light came on and it is really rocky at an idle and sounds like it wants to die. searching the net i found this post, which has had a ton of info for me to take in! Im pretty sure the EGR is in need of some serious cleaning, so i planned on doing that tonight.

However... upon going out, popping the hood and trying to take the intake tube off, i noticed that the accordion part of the intake tube had some places that were pretty much dry-rotted and were very brittle. it already had some holes in it, but when i was twisting the tube (before i noticed all of this) i think i made a bigger one in it. Im guessing this is bad....

Im gonna go ahead and pull the EGR and clean it since im this far in, but i was just wondering if when i put everything back together it will be drivable. the holes arent huge, the biggest one being maybe an inch or two. they are actually slits, rather than holes, in between the ridges in the pipe. im guessing that alone could cause an idle problem. any idea how much a replacement costs? i have found all the cold air ones for a couple-hundered dollars but im kinda broke at the moment and really need the car to function tomorrow! yikes! If the factory one isnt too expensive i could try and pick on up at my local dealer tomorrow because it looks like the autoparts stores dont carry stock replacements.

anyway, i just thought id post this up real fast while i go do the EGR cleaning. hopefully ill get some sort of response between now and the time im done.

[Jeepwheelin02]

Just thought I would add my two cents in here as well.

I bought a 1995 Mazda Protege DX with the 1.5L DOHC an auto tranny and 152,000 miles back in February. Got it for a steal cause it wouldnt start. Getting it to run cost me a $17 fuel filter. It always had a rough idle, and shifted a little harder than I thought it should. I started searching the net and I found this post, and thought well one day I will get around to cleaning that. Well that day finally got here.

This past Saturday morning the car would not start. Which really sucked since I had to make the hour and a half drive to Denver. Ended up taking my jeep (and gas mileage in that thing SUCKS). Finally got a chance to take the EGR out today. The EGR valve on teh 1.5L is in the same location as the 2.0, not sure about the other engines. I was gonna go ahead and clean my IAC while I was at it. Well the easiest way I saw to get the IAC off was to take the entire throttle body off. 4 bolts, a bunch of vaccum lines, throttle cable, throttle return cable, and 3 electrical connectors and it was off. I then took the IAC apart and cleaned it. Well guess what, when you take the entire throttle body off, it is VERY easy to get to the EGR. That thing came out so quick it was a dream. It was also VERY disgusting. I had a nice size puddle of carbon on the ground when I was done cleaning it.

Once I got everything back together, the car fired right up. It idles very smooth now, and shifts like it should.

So thanks for the info on how to fix the rough idle. And for any one out there that had a rough isle and now your car wont start, yet it gets spark, fuel, and air. Clean those two things and see what happens.

[Bradleygt]

after going back out there, my intake tube is now cracked in half. basically its almost in two pieces now, cut across the middle where the flexy part is. i had absolutely zero luck even getting at the two bolts to remove the EGR valve so i threw the intake tube back on and moved it out of the garage. now the car will barely stay alive at all. it shakes and the lights dim every time the RPMs drop. This really sucks. :(

[imola.zhp]

^ its supposed to do that. Basically your feeding the car un-filtered air, not enough air is passing through the MAF sensor and it (the MAF) is telling the car to shut down...

Here are your options...

1) Search junk yards for a good intake tube

2) Search FS threads for a good intake tube (where I bought mine, was missing from previous owner putting a crappy aftermarket intake on it)

3) Buy intake tube new from dealer

4) Buy an aftermarket intake

I believe your problem is not related to the EGR, just related to the big holes in your intake tube. Hopefully none of the brittle plastic was allowed into your engine, that would be bad...

Good Luck!

[the_jaf]

Having rough idle issues, and getting EGR replaced by Mazda as the part is under warranty thankfully. Hopefully this will solve the problem!

[lanceam24]

ok i cleaned the egr a few weeks ago (maybe 3). i bought my mp3 with an aftermarket turbo kit on it with the spool manifold. which means no bung for the egr tube so mine is just sitting there... disconnected. yesterday, i was turning my car died on me (scary when u have a turbo timer that keeps everything on) in the middle of a turn. it did it once again tonite. is there some sort of block off plate for the egr tube/pipe?

[the_jaf]

EGR replaced under warranty through Mazda, fixed my idle problems. Any Canadian Protege owner having this same problem get to your Mazda dealership to get your EGR replaced!

[dave45090]

You're killing me.

Why didn't you clamp vise-grips to the head of the bolt to break it loose? I know from very recent experience that the heads round out very easily. However...the bolts will break loose easily with the above mentioned method.


I just cleaned mine out yesterday but I wasn't able to take out the 4 screws that connect the solenoid and the valve together. I ended up stripping three of them. So I just sprayed carb cleaner into the holes. It didn't really do much, even though my car didn't idle extremely rough, but I think it's because I didn't clean it well enough.

Is there anyway to remove the stripped screws?

[80sGuy]

after going back out there, my intake tube is now cracked in half. basically its almost in two pieces now, cut across the middle where the flexy part is. i had absolutely zero luck even getting at the two bolts to remove the EGR valve so i threw the intake tube back on and moved it out of the garage. now the car will barely stay alive at all. it shakes and the lights dim every time the RPMs drop. This really sucks. :(Brand new Air Intake Hose/Tubes are only like $30 more or less from the dealer. I replaced mine and it made a world of difference in terms of idling and better acceleration, car felt much 'lighter' during take-off from a dead stop.
I just got the infamous Check Engine Light - AGAIN for the 4th time! Time to remove the EGR valve for a good cleaning, hope it helps since I've never touched it for 125k+ miles.

[goodfornothing]

You're killing me.

Why didn't you clamp vise-grips to the head of the bolt to break it loose? I know from very recent experience that the heads round out very easily. However...the bolts will break loose easily with the above mentioned method.

Well that was a while ago, but I wasn't talking about the bolts that hold the EGR to the throttle body. I'm talking about the four screws ON the valve holding it to the solenoid. I might just end up taking the whole throttle body out like what some guy in the previous posts did.

[friedclams]

I registered on this site solely to thank you, Britt... your excellent photos emboldened me to do this (very simple) job. Nice to have my Protege purring again.

[el_Don]

I did this and cleaned the EGR. It worked for about half a day but then the rough idle sound returned. I don't know whether to try again or take it in.

[red95_240sx]

its not always the EGR. It probly the ECu reset thats don the temporary trick for most of you.

[el_Don]

Alright, I'll try the ECU reset again. We'll see

[Sport23]

A dirty MAF will give you a rough idle too. You can buy some MAF cleaner if the ECU reset doesn't fix it. Just be careful not to break anything!

[mcstark]

Vega - Just wanted to drop in and thank you for posting your "How to." Car started stumbling last night at idle, and got a little worse on the way home. I just searched "idling" and came upon your post.

It was a bitch getting the electrical connector off. Figured out you need to push hard on the tab you can see right where the wires go in. The other PITA, as previously mentioned, was the cheese screws holding the two halves together. I backed them off with a vise grips until I could unscrew them. Spent $3 at Valu to replace them and reinstalled them with copper anti-sieze for when I need to do this again.

The tip on using graphite lock lube on the spring assembly was brilliant.

Anyway...purrs along at 700 rpm now.

Thanks for taking the time to do this!

[80sGuy]

You guys are lucky, I couldn't get those 12mm bolts out, so to prevent from further stripping the bolts, I've only be able to get the top portion off and halted the other half. The 1.6 LX are a bitch to get into, I didn't have to remove the battery like most have mentioned (I think it's only for the 1.8L), but the way it's positioned is like almost impossible to get into unless you hoist the car up and do it from underneath.

[80sGuy]

its not always the EGR. It probly the ECu reset thats don the temporary trick for most of you.Does this mean the ECU can give you intermittent reads, what do you have to do, disconnect the negative battery terminal and leave it off for a set period of time?

[red95_240sx]

yea

[Chris1989]

I almost got fix to today but I couldn't take of the intake pipe. It felt like it was fused to the throttlebody.

[el_Don]

Did you make sure the clamp was off the intake tubing?

[el_Don]

I'll be trying the MAF sensor cleaning as well. Thanks

[lanny709]

Hahaha why would you do it yourself if it's covered under an unlimited warranty. In my old 02 Protege would also stall out when I would idle. It would cost $300 plus to get it fixed at a garage or have to pull it apart myself and clean it like most of you but I took it to Mazda and it's covered under an unlimited warranty. The EGR is faulty in the protege. Therefore, they fix it or replace it if needed, FOR FREE :)

Not sure if the warranty stuff is different in the USA but that's what it is here in Canada haha, go check it out.

[el_Don]

Hahaha why would you do it yourself if it's covered under an unlimited warranty. In my old 02 Protege would also stall out when I would idle. It would cost $300 plus to get it fixed at a garage or have to pull it apart myself and clean it like most of you but I took it to Mazda and it's covered under an unlimited warranty. The EGR is faulty in the protege. Therefore, they fix it or replace it if needed, FOR FREE :)

Not sure if the warranty stuff is different in the USA but that's what it is here in Canada haha, go check it out.

I doubt it, but I'll check it out. Thanks

[lanny709]

No problem. Although it seems as though I'm a little late for some haha

[Chris1989]

Did you make sure the clamp was off the intake tubing?
I did take the clamp off but it still wouldn't budge. I could only move it a little bit but it wouldn't come off.

[lanny709]

I did take the clamp off but it still wouldn't budge. I could only move it a little bit but it wouldn't come off.

That rubber tube gets stuck on there pretty darn good. Just make sure the clamp is loosened enough and give it a yank. When I put the CAI in the P5 I had the same issue with the stock intake. Just pull from the driver side and wiggle it a bit, it'll come off :)

[Chris1989]

That rubber tube gets stuck on there pretty darn good. Just make sure the clamp is loosened enough and give it a yank. When I put the CAI in the P5 I had the same issue with the stock intake. Just pull from the driver side and wiggle it a bit, it'll come off :)

Yeah, its cracked anyway so its needs to come off.

I found one on ebay for 30 bucks.

[lanny709]

Yeah, its cracked anyway so its needs to come off.

I found one on ebay for 30 bucks.

Not the best quality rubber huh? haha

[axisboldaslove]

i cleaned mine today...i only decided to clean it because when it's cold as fuck outside at 5am my car idles at 3,000 rpm for like a couple of mins....so we will see how it does tomorrow morning

[imola.zhp]

^ my car doesn't quite idle up that high, but even in WARM weather it idles high for a good 30 seconds when I first start her up in the morning...

kind of annoying, but it effectively blows out all of the oil from the compression chambers

[imola.zhp]

Hahaha why would you do it yourself if it's covered under an unlimited warranty. In my old 02 Protege would also stall out when I would idle. It would cost $300 plus to get it fixed at a garage or have to pull it apart myself and clean it like most of you but I took it to Mazda and it's covered under an unlimited warranty. The EGR is faulty in the protege. Therefore, they fix it or replace it if needed, FOR FREE :)

Not sure if the warranty stuff is different in the USA but that's what it is here in Canada haha, go check it out.

My rough idle is back...

Does anyone know what phone number to call to see if US cars are covered under this EGR "unlimited" warranty? I'm sure calling a dealership will have mixed results, might be best to call the company...

[lanny709]

My rough idle is back...

Does anyone know what phone number to call to see if US cars are covered under this EGR "unlimited" warranty? I'm sure calling a dealership will have mixed results, might be best to call the company...

I'd just go right to your nearest Mazda dealer. I never bought mine new from them or anything I've never dealt with Mazda directly until this point. I just called and they ran my VIN number and said yes come in whenever you can it will be fixed free of charge. I'd do that before you do anything :)

and yes I even had to re-assure myself on the "unlimited" part of it. It's a faulty part so they do cover it forever no matter if the car has 1,000,000 miles on it.

[tacio25]

great info!!

[lanny709]

great info!!

did you give it a shot? :)

[xDJ DUBx]

Get out of here stacy. (lurk)

[Matrix]

Hey guys, I just wanted to write up my experience...

For about 2 years, my car's performance gradually decreased. It was pretty gradual, and so I didn't really notice it. After a couple of mods made no difference in performance even though they should have yielded at least 25-30hp gains, I became suspicious, but didn't have time to check it out in depth. I checked to make sure there were no boost leaks in the intake plumbing, but it was all fine.

About 2 months ago I threw a CEL. I took it to the Mazda stealership, who said it was EGR code and bad coils. Apparently, my EGR was stuck open!! It was causing a boost leak. Where I should have been seeing 8psi, I was only getting around 4psi. I replaced my EGR with a used cleaned unit and replaced the coils. What a difference!! The car is a beast now! (thumb)

The funny thing is, it was running with the EGR stuck open for around 30k miles without throwing the CEL. So for those with "mysterious" boost leakage, the EGR is worth checking out even if you have no CELs.

The difference was so big, I now have a much more satisfied driving experience. Where I was thinking about selling the car before, I am now in love with my MSP all over again.

[TheMAN]

yeah, my car has been hauling a lot of ass after I replaced the EGR valve with the new canadian one... it still ran bad at low speeds because the plugs were still fouled up from when the EGR was bad, but I cleaned them up and it's all good

[Pmpkinhead]

yeah, my car has been hauling a lot of ass after I replaced the EGR valve with the new canadian one... it still ran bad at low speeds because the plugs were still fouled up from when the EGR was bad, but I cleaned them up and it's all good


Are the Canadian EGR's better? Where can I get one, due for a replacement.


367 (mp3yellow

[D-rock240]

Yes, you have to order it from someone in Canada though.

[Matrix]

Hahaha why would you do it yourself if it's covered under an unlimited warranty. In my old 02 Protege would also stall out when I would idle. It would cost $300 plus to get it fixed at a garage or have to pull it apart myself and clean it like most of you but I took it to Mazda and it's covered under an unlimited warranty. The EGR is faulty in the protege. Therefore, they fix it or replace it if needed, FOR FREE :)

Not sure if the warranty stuff is different in the USA but that's what it is here in Canada haha, go check it out.

I just got off the phone with Mazda North America and the local Mazda dealership, and they both say there is nothing about any unlimited warranty for the EGR in our cars. There is a technical service bulletin, but it only instructs the technicians on how to diagnose and service the issue.

Looks like we're on our own with this problem. (boom07)

[323]

yeah so far i think the best solution is the canadian egr.

[damaster]

yeah, my car has been hauling a lot of ass after I replaced the EGR valve with the new canadian one... it still ran bad at low speeds because the plugs were still fouled up from when the EGR was bad, but I cleaned them up and it's all good
Is there a different part # for the Canadian EGR? Maybe I can bounce a group deal for anyone interested since I'm in Canada...

[lanny709]

I just got off the phone with Mazda North America and the local Mazda dealership, and they both say there is nothing about any unlimited warranty for the EGR in our cars. There is a technical service bulletin, but it only instructs the technicians on how to diagnose and service the issue.

Looks like we're on our own with this problem. (boom07)

lol well I have no idea then that's just what they told me at my dealership? :( sorry guys

[69cubed]

I purchased an '02 626. (This is my 2nd mazda. My first mazda was a '93 protege)
. Everything was running nice. and now the rpm's are too low.<700 when in Park, when I shift to Drive, it goes below 500 or it stalls.
I read here it's possible it might be the EGR, which I will attempt to clean.

But, I read somewhere else, that it might also be the MAF.

Please advise (HELP!)

[imola.zhp]

^ advise what?

Clean the EGR, if the problem persists, check the MAF.

I have broken two MAF's now, if your MAF is broken or malfunctioning, you should have a CEL on. Search how to clean MAF if you'd rather try that first...

When you have two possible problems, eliminate one to see if the other is the actual problem. Checking/cleaning both shouldn't take you more than an hour or two.

[BadBandar]

subin.

[jonlong]

Anyway disadvantage to disabling the EGR altogether?

[Captain KRM P5]

other than a CEL?

[Madmot]

I don't understand the big fuzz about a canadian EGR valve. Mine stucked three times:

1st: 56910Km, warranty
2nd: 71048Km, warranty but I had to scream (i was pissed...) (gun)
3rd: 128000km, I clean it myself and i keep my finger crossed.

My car has 136 000 Km now and i know it will happen again. I've seen some stuff about unlimited warranty and I might give it a try.

Anyways, this is the reason why I disagree with the canadian EGR valve being so much better.

I wish lots of luck to every EGR valve victims.

[Topper_Harlee]

First, want to thank Vega for pointing us in the right direction. Just finished cleaning the EGR valve. It's my stepson's car so he'll have to let me know later how it's running, but the first impression from him is that it is running smoother. Few pointers though:

1) Yes, do remove the battery, makes life much, much easier.

2) To remove the connector, use a flat blade screwdriver and depress the bottom portion of the gray tab.

3) I used a small 1/4" ratchet to remove the bolts, worked fine since those bolts are not on there very tight.

4) To remove the 4 small screws, this is where a lot of people stripped them, soak them in PB Blaster and, here's the important part, use a vise-grip to loosen them. Doesn't take much force at all. I tried screwdriver, no go. The vise-grip will loosen the bolts just enough.

5) Cut out a soda can(careful, don't cut yourself-use a plier to move the egr in and out), , fill it with cleaner of your choice (I use throttle body cleaner) and soak the egr valve in it. The goal here is not to totally clean out the black gunk, but to loosen the shaft so the valve close and open easily. I use a mini grinder, a dremel works well too, to clean out the black gunk.

6) If the damn light comes back and the car running rough again, I'm replacing the damn thing :-)

Thank for everyone input, very much appreciated.

[Omar MSP]

nice write up Topper

[hopefullysoon]

I just got done doing it .... Took about 2 hrs wasnt that bad and yes it is a bit awkward .....

My car is an automatic so for all those with auto's I will let you know if it did anything.

I dont think it will because the spring wasn't stuck but there was a lot of gunk in there.

While I was at it i unscrewed the front heat shield toward the manifold under the car that was causing all the ratling.

Will update ASAP (stoned)

[Topper_Harlee]

nice write up Topper

Thank

[hopefullysoon]

Ok Updat Mine is an auto .... So far all is good running pretty smooth. I really didn't have an idle problem but wanted to get this out of the way.

It did want to stall the first few stop lights but after that everything was fine''' Idles smooth now.

[imola.zhp]

^ if you disconnected the battery, that is kinda normal...

Every time I've disconnected mine, it wants to die at stops for about 20-30 miles, then it sorts everything out and returns to normal.

[canock]

FANTASTIC!!! I cleaned my EGR tonight on my MP3 and it made a huge difference. I only have 67,000km on my car and this needed to be done...so you guys that have like 120k on yours...do it and you will be much happier! Before I couldn't let the clutch out and let the car pull its self with out pressing on the gas and now it is so much smoother. I found that once i took the valve off and sprayed brake cleaner into it not much happened. I then took some Q-tips and scrubbed the valve inside with it and some brake clean and it made a huge difference...anyway thanks for the HOW TO.

[msp2751]

OK, so... I looked at the picture on the first post of this thread, read the instructions, (including the part about it should take around only 30 minutes), and decided to improve my car's performance...

I bought a new EGR ($134, online & delivered). Figured I dont thave the time to mess around with a rusty old car part (my MSP has 123,500 miles on it today). So I spent the money...

Disconnected the air intake from the throttle body. Was easy to unscrew / loosen the hose clamp, but removing the plastic intake from the throttle required a bit of effort; it wouldnt come right off, had to wiggle it back and forth with some force to get it off. I also thought about the consequences of me dropping something accidentally into that throttle body.... Compounding that minor intake removal problem was the adjacent metal tubing from the master brake reservoir, an easily bent item... needed to be careful to not hit it.

I also needed to move another air duct, from/to the air filter. I unclipped the filter box top, and pushed it to the side.

But I realized there was still no way I could easily get that EGR thing off. Who was the idiot that designed this layout?? I don't have small hands, and needed more room. I really needed the battery out of the way. Which meant I needed to remove also the anti-sway bar that cross over the top of the battery from shock to shock. That then gave me the room I needed.

Then the electrical connector to the solenoid wouldnt come off. Of course there's some simple clip on it that I should have been able to figure out, but even with an engineering degree I couldnt... so I forced it, breaking part of the plastic cover off it. (Probably the part with the clip; so then it came right off.)

I read in that first post there are two 12mm bolts holding the EGR on, so I got my smallest ratchet with a 12mm socket (it fit on both bolts nicely), and turned. No luck; it's stuck. After f*ing around with various angles and positions for like half an hour, I realized -- wait a minute... although "righty tighty lefty loosey", these were pointing UP, so I was turning the wrong way. I really have to start drinking less when I do car work. They then popped loose easily.

The EGR dropped off easily, as did the metal gasket. I cleaned that as best I could, as I was going to re-use it. The new one went on easily; I used Loctite on the bolts. I also used electrical tape on the connector, with a zip tie to hold it on. After re-assembly of everything (total time = 4 hours?) the car ran ... worse than before.

I originally did this because of the severe hesitation on full acceleration; I wanted to get the EGR & PCV changed before I got the ECM reflashed. But now, there is a rough idle / near stall at idle, where there wasnt any before. I hope the reflash will fix this too...

I write all this to let these things be lessons learned to others...

[slavrenz]

OK, so... I looked at the picture on the first post of this thread, read the instructions, (including the part about it should take around only 30 minutes), and decided to improve my car's performance...

I bought a new EGR ($134, online & delivered). Figured I dont thave the time to mess around with a rusty old car part (my MSP has 123,500 miles on it today). So I spent the money...

Disconnected the air intake from the throttle body. Was easy to unscrew / loosen the hose clamp, but removing the plastic intake from the throttle required a bit of effort; it wouldnt come right off, had to wiggle it back and forth with some force to get it off. I also thought about the consequences of me dropping something accidentally into that throttle body.... Compounding that minor intake removal problem was the adjacent metal tubing from the master brake reservoir, an easily bent item... needed to be careful to not hit it.

I also needed to move another air duct, from/to the air filter. I unclipped the filter box top, and pushed it to the side.

But I realized there was still no way I could easily get that EGR thing off. Who was the idiot that designed this layout?? I don't have small hands, and needed more room. I really needed the battery out of the way. Which meant I needed to remove also the anti-sway bar that cross over the top of the battery from shock to shock. That then gave me the room I needed.

Then the electrical connector to the solenoid wouldnt come off. Of course there's some simple clip on it that I should have been able to figure out, but even with an engineering degree I couldnt... so I forced it, breaking part of the plastic cover off it. (Probably the part with the clip; so then it came right off.)

I read in that first post there are two 12mm bolts holding the EGR on, so I got my smallest ratchet with a 12mm socket (it fit on both bolts nicely), and turned. No luck; it's stuck. After f*ing around with various angles and positions for like half an hour, I realized -- wait a minute... although "righty tighty lefty loosey", these were pointing UP, so I was turning the wrong way. I really have to start drinking less when I do car work. They then popped loose easily.

The EGR dropped off easily, as did the metal gasket. I cleaned that as best I could, as I was going to re-use it. The new one went on easily; I used Loctite on the bolts. I also used electrical tape on the connector, with a zip tie to hold it on. After re-assembly of everything (total time = 4 hours?) the car ran ... worse than before.

I originally did this because of the severe hesitation on full acceleration; I wanted to get the EGR & PCV changed before I got the ECM reflashed. But now, there is a rough idle / near stall at idle, where there wasnt any before. I hope the reflash will fix this too...

I write all this to let these things be lessons learned to others...

Sorry man, but I find it a little weird that you blew $136 on a new EGR valve, but didn't want to drop $2 on a new gasket (any auto parts store carries them). As for the rough idle, check to make sure all of your hoses are properly reconnected. You may also have f-ed up the electrical connector when you broke the plastic part.

[122 Vega]

Anyway disadvantage to disabling the EGR altogether?

Yes there is, without a CEL. You have to add resistors to the four pin connector, I'm at work right now, so I don't remember the specifics, but IIRC one is 100kohm anr the other is 200kohm. The PCU will think the vavle is still plugged in.

I'll try to dig up the specifics later.

Britt

[122 Vega]

BTW there is not "unlimited" warranty. There is an 80,000 mile emissions warranty seperate from the bumper to bumper. However, that said, Mazda isn't going to replace it just cause you ask them to. The part has to fail causing the car to not meet federal emissions standards. The EGR won't do that. The car will likely still pass with the EGR sticking.

Mine is acting up again, 52,000 miles. I personally plan to pick up the Canadian version asap. The actual cleaning is easy, for me it's the weeks leading up the the realization that I have to do it again is what really sucks.

Glad this thread helped a few people.

Britt

[jlanger]

Anyone have any good sites to pick up the canuck version? Local dealers are charging $185 for the part, and autozone is about $140 or so. I cleaned mine and got the bad idle and stalling to stop for about 1200 miles or so. I'm pretty sure that's what's causing the CEL. Dealer never heard of any extended warranty or replacement or even a TSB, though they did admit to having to replace a lot of them, and the fact that they had 52 valves on hand makes me believe it's more common then they care to admit.
Mind you I don't want to knock the car, with 84k on it and I've only had a $130 part go wrong, it really isn't bad at all considering I haven't had to do diddly squat other then normal maintenance on it. (knocks on wood lol)

BTW Thanks for the informative post on replacing/cleaning this piece, it's been inspiring on a fix I can actually do and saved me oodles of money trying to diagnose and fix it using a mechanic.

[Topper_Harlee]

Updated:
Well, I did the cleaning on my stepson's 01 ES, and it has been almost a month now. He has reported that the car is running smooth, and the check engine light hasn't come back so you can count me in as successful one!!

[blueamcat]

Updated:
Well, I did the cleaning on my stepson's 01 ES, and it has been almost a month now. He has reported that the car is running smooth, and the check engine light hasn't come back so you can count me in as successful one!!

Glad to hear it! :)

[jlanger]

Anyone have any good sites to pick up the canuck version? Local dealers are charging $185 for the part, and autozone is about $140 or so. I cleaned mine and got the bad idle and stalling to stop for about 1200 miles or so. I'm pretty sure that's what's causing the CEL. Dealer never heard of any extended warranty or replacement or even a TSB, though they did admit to having to replace a lot of them, and the fact that they had 52 valves on hand makes me believe it's more common then they care to admit.
Mind you I don't want to knock the car, with 84k on it and I've only had a $130 part go wrong, it really isn't bad at all considering I haven't had to do diddly squat other then normal maintenance on it. (knocks on wood lol)

BTW Thanks for the informative post on replacing/cleaning this piece, it's been inspiring on a fix I can actually do and saved me oodles of money trying to diagnose and fix it using a mechanic.

Ordered a EGR valve and new gasket from Autozone, should be coming on Saturday. Once it's installed I'll let you all know if it does the trick and if it ever fails again, it has a 3 year warranty so I should be good to go for replacing it.

[kyle's protege5]

i think i've said this before but if anyone wants a used one of these with about 5000 miles on it just pm me. pulled it out when i turboed my car. A lot cheaper than the stealership or Napa

[theROOSTER]

can this be an issue(and fix) on Automatics as well?

I have a used 2002 MP5 with 124k, and it seems to idle in the 300-400 range, while at stoplights in D.

it's not too rough, but there' s little "gurgle" and shake every now and again, and once in a while it drifts from 300-400 up to 600, and it always feels "smoother" when at 600.

Ive pulled and cleaned the MAF, and just run seafoam through the brake-boost vacuum line. (currently, no change yet but nothing got worse)

I have some new plugs to drop in now (going to try some G-POWER BKR5EGP 7090's) and thought maybe cleaning the EGR may help as well....

thoughts?

[2000MAZPro]

im not sure if this has come up here yet, though i'm sure it has and i just could find it..if sorry sorry for repeating..but what are the chances of taking the EGR off without damaging the gasket? I want to to this asap but should i buy a gasket first? thanks!

[Pmpkinhead]

im not sure if this has come up here yet, though i'm sure it has and i just could find it..if sorry sorry for repeating..but what are the chances of taking the EGR off without damaging the gasket? I want to to this asap but should i buy a gasket first? thanks!

I'm still using the original gasket after a rebuild / cleaning, no problems.

[Diehonda]

One part that I would like to point out about the gasket:

Some have metal gaskets and some have fiber. The fiber gaskets suck and will fall apart when you remove them.

From what I have seen MSPs have fiber and MP5 has metal.

[Sport23]

One part that I would like to point out about the gasket:

Some have metal gaskets and some have fiber. The fiber gaskets suck and will fall apart when you remove them.

From what I have seen MSPs have fiber and MP5 has metal.

g2k that we have an option on gaskets. Thanks for the info!

[2000MAZPro]

One part that I would like to point out about the gasket:

Some have metal gaskets and some have fiber. The fiber gaskets suck and will fall apart when you remove them.

From what I have seen MSPs have fiber and MP5 has metal.



great thanks for the info..so am I safe to assume the my protege has a sucky fiber gasket? thanks again

[ucMP3]

From what I have seen MSPs have fiber and MP5 has metal.

How about the gasket on the MP3? I'm crossing my fingers for metal... (drinks)

[slavrenz]

The gasket on my '01 Protege is metal - I just looked and the part # is the same for all 99-03 Proteges, P5s, MSPs, and MP3s, so I would assume that all of the gaskets are metal.

[Pmpkinhead]

The gasket on my '01 Protege is metal - I just looked and the part # is the same for all 99-03 Proteges, P5s, MSPs, and MP3s, so I would assume that all of the gaskets are metal.

Mine is metal and the oem gasket I just received from the dealer is metal. I only bought it because I bought a new EGR and I was worried about dropping it again during the install. It's hard to find it down there.

367 (mp3yellow

[ucMP3]

k thx. I think I might do this tonight when I get off work. I just ordered a new header so I might as well make the egr nice and clean for the install coming up. I'll be sorta pissed if I strip a screw tho (bang)

[ucMP3]

Not bad at all... I've got the egr soaking in carb cleaner right now. Took maybe 5 min to get it out of the car and taken apart from the solenoid. The 4 screws (the ones like cheese?) were set in a little bit but I didn't even use any PB blaster. I was anticipating a lot of trouble from hearing everyone else on here, especially since I'm guessing this is the first time its been removed in almost 9 years. But so far, so good! The valve is already moving A LOT more freely now, it was pretty gunked up so hopefully I notice a little bit a difference in how smooth the throttle is. On that note, by the looks of it, getting it put back in will be much more of a pain than taking it out. And I'm not sure I should even mess with the Idle control valve, I don't think I have the proper torx wrench needed anyways it sounds like.

*Edit: Just finished, it idles real nice now... Just took it for a quick test drive and it feels/sounds great. Nice write up!

[LASERBLUE135]

sub

OH HEY???? Canada has a different EGR valve? Maybe that doesn't suck as bad as our USA version. Does anyone know the difference???

[ucMP3]

The specifics are posted in this thread a ways back... But basically it's got some extra stuff that helps it burn off the carbon deposits from the exhaust manifold so it doesn't build up as bad.

[LASERBLUE135]

So it doesn't suck as bad as the USA version!!

[ucMP3]

So it doesn't suck as bad as the USA version!!

Precisely. Its supposed to be much improved over the original US version.

[SocialStealth]

Just cleaned my EGR valve.

fixed these problems:
sporadic idle
Dip in RPMs when clutch depressed

And btw, to read the gauge under 1000 rpms;
0 = 0
first heavy black line = 500
each line after that is + 100

so its:
-1000
-900
-800
-700
-600
-500
-0

[SocialStealth]

What is an IAC, and how do you clean it??

Anything else I can clean?

I cleaned my egr valve by soaking it for about 5 minutes and scrubbing it with a tooth brush (though it was hard to get deep in there)
Is that 'good enough' of a clean? or should I have been more through?

[xDJ DUBx]

Turtle

[Omar MSP]

baa, lol ima just buy me a new one and put that sucker on. lol, though its sounds easy to clean it, but the hassle isn't worth it for a new one and not have to worry about it for a few years.

[DeadAir]

Just did this to my '03 P5 (105,600 miles) and it was a BITCH to get off (Michigan winters + salt = SUCK)

A couple of notes:
PB Blaster will be your friend. Get Brake-Kleen when you pick up the PB Blaster
Go to Sears and grab a 3/8 or 1/4 drive 12mm universal joint socket (not just the u-joint adapter) to get at the back bolt. It's a tight fit and you'll be working blind from above the engine
Remove the battery
Buy new screws for the solenoid. I got stainless cap-head socket screws. Thread pitch is .70 but I don't remember the type (M7 maybe?)

[rmak_14]

Just finished up doing this in the morning. car sounds and runs better now but haven't taken it out for a spin yet. If i took off the neg battery terminal to reset, do i need to reload the supermap if i have the SS AFC? also i tried using a t25 torx bit to take off the IAC but no dice. any other ideas on taking that off?

[i like speed]

Did mine a while back and got nothing. It wasn't that dirty though either.

I reinstalled the solenoid backwards but that shouldn't make a difference should it?

Edit:+1 for new screws for the solenoid. I had to use vice grips to get one of them out.

[mckernan]

still using it 4 years later TY BRITT

[SocialStealth]

Just finished up doing this in the morning. car sounds and runs better now but haven't taken it out for a spin yet. If i took off the neg battery terminal to reset, do i need to reload the supermap if i have the SS AFC? also i tried using a t25 torx bit to take off the IAC but no dice. any other ideas on taking that off?

What is an IAC and how do you clean it?

[hbens]

Owner of a Mazda protege 2000, DX, 150000 miles , Manual with a question please:I have been getting p402 however my car runs very well, no rough idling, 32-35 mpg highway....I reset and the code comes back after 400 miles or so..where do you suggest I start first: EGR,Maf....thanks a lot

[DeadAir]

hbens- You might try posting this in the Protege5 or All Mazdas sections... you might get more ideas there.

FWIW, I'd start with the MAF. Get some MAF cleaner or electronics cleaner and spray it (remove it first), it's easy and cheap. Move on from there.

Good luck (2thumbs)

[mckernan]

Owner of a Mazda protege 2000, DX, 150000 miles , Manual with a question please:I have been getting p402 however my car runs very well, no rough idling, 32-35 mpg highway....I reset and the code comes back after 400 miles or so..where do you suggest I start first: EGR,Maf....thanks a lot

sounds like a bad sensor to me

[hbens]

Thanks a lot fellas, I suppose start with MAF, gotta figure what that isht is ...lol .I truly appreciate the suggestion. I am thiking since there is no rough idling that the EGR is ok, ...may be.

[mckernan]

Thanks a lot fellas, I suppose start with MAF, gotta figure what that isht is ...lol .I truly appreciate the suggestion. I am thiking since there is no rough idling that the EGR is ok, ...may be.

well im basing this on the fact that my egr is bad officially and my mpg is only 16, so it sounds like something else. but you never know.(well me anyways...lol).

you could still try cleaning since it is on 9/10 proteges a problem.

[mckernan]

btw the MAF is easy to locate, lol, if that's what you mean. you can see it as soon as you open the hood. check right next to your air box.

[hbens]

Ok, I will do that and report .My mpg is good, so i hope it is the MAF or the valve..

[steven giampino]

A lot of people have complained about the eratic idle the Protege sometimes gets when the clutch is pushed in and rpms are allowed to fall quickly. The idle will jump anywhere from around 200-1100. This problem seems to get worse when the car warms up. My car started stalling everytime I pushed in the clutch or allowed it to idle. I had to feather it at stops like I was driving one of my old Vegas. Often people would think I was trying to race them because of the revving at the light. So I decided to do something about it.

1. The EGR is located directly below the throttlebody on the 2.0 engine. First remove the upper intake pipe (from IC on MSPs) and you will see it, it has a black circular cap and a grey six pin plug going into it.

http://www.msprotege.com/members/122%20Vega/DSC00155.JPG

2. The EGR is held on by two 12mm bolts that point up towards the throttlebody. Unplug the EGR and then remove these two bolts. The EGR will come right out. There is a thin metal gasket that may come out with the valve, or it may stay stuck to the mounting pad.

3. This is the valve out of the car. It consists of an electric solenoid attatched to a bypass valve.

http://www.msprotege.com/members/122%20Vega/DSC00157.JPG

4. Remove the four phillips head screws holding the electric solenoid from the valve body. This will come apart easily.

http://www.msprotege.com/members/122%20Vega/DSC00159.JPG

5. Clean the inside of the valve assembly completely with a carbon killer of your choice, I prefer Brake-Kleen. I was suprised at the amount of carbon build-up that came out of the valve.

6. Lube the shaft inside with a drop or two of oil and also lube the outside beneath the spring.

7. Reassembly is the reverse of removal. I suggest resetting the PCM while doing this, so the EGR can readjust after you start it.

8. You may want to follow the Manual's suggestion of measuring the resistance of the pins, but my car runs ten times better now, and I have no stalling issues anymore.

9. Time to complete, 30 minutes at most. Good luck.

Britt

u sed u suggest resetting the pcm while doing this????wat is the pcm??

[mckernan]

cleaning the egr didn't help me,
my mpg is still bad and cel came back on a week later shooting the same code.

i think it may just be defective, there really wasn't that much gunked in there anyways.

oh wellz, negative 200$ for me

[TheMAN]

yeah, had you searched and known anything about the canadian egr valve, you would've brought your car to the dealership already to get it replaced under warranty without wasting time cleaning it

[mckernan]

yeah, had you searched and known anything about the canadian egr valve, you would've brought your car to the dealership already to get it replaced under warranty without wasting time cleaning it

i bought it used with 111000km on it.
there is no warranty

[ucMP3]

I believe there is an extended warranty on the canadian EGR valves...

[TheMAN]

i bought it used with 111000km on it.
there is no warranty
wait, you're trying to argue with someone who already knows more than you about this subject without even searching and reading to begin with?

just like how you shouldn't talk back to your mother, you shouldn't talk back to someone who is more experienced than you

[mckernan]

so even though im not the primary owner i can still take it to mazda?

not to mention the car is now 6 years old

[hbens]

I dont know anything bout this warrenty and would like to be enlightened by THE MAN. As of now I just replaced the easiest of all-the pcv- valve, no CEL as of now, we 'll see how it lasts. What is this EGR WARRENTY, i will be happy to take it to the mazda dealer if that is the case...thanks to tHE MAN(headbang)

[mckernan]

wait, you're trying to argue with someone who already knows more than you about this subject without even searching and reading to begin with?

just like how you shouldn't talk back to your mother, you shouldn't talk back to someone who is more experienced than you

and im not trying to argue with anyone, i admit i have no experience.
but i don't even know anything about the previous owner or where the car was bought, what to bring for the warrenty how long it is.
i just assumed since its been so long and that it would be just my luck to have just missed out on it.

[hbens]

well just coz u bought it old,doesnt necessarely mean it is out of warrenty, could be life time...awating confirmation(flash)

[GoFast]

it depends. I am pretty sure it is covered under the bumper to bumper warranty in most states. Some states like California and others who follow the same emissions standards, require it be warrantied until 80k miles I do not know about Canada though. You should see what you can do about reading through your warranty book as it will explain all of this. If you don't have one, I am pretty sure that you can download one from Mazda

[ucMP3]

If this is still under warranty, it is because of a later special warranty because Mazda realized how much their egr valves sucked on these cars. So it most likely will not be in your warranty book. Worth a look tho I guess.

[imola.zhp]

Here's a thought...

Drive to the nearest Mazda dealership and ask.

Genius idea!

And yeah, where the previous owner or owners bought the car from has nothing to do with where you should be able to get warranty work done. If its under warranty, its under warranty, and if its not, its not. Or thats how it works in the States...

[Duvalmazda3]

I have a 05 mazda 3. I know the EGR is in a different location then on the protege. do you think I could clean my the same way?

I just looked at it its the same kind you guys have. its in a really tight spot tho :/

[StealthWyvern]

I have a 05 mazda 3. I know the EGR is in a different location then on the protege. do you think I could clean my the same way?

I do not see why not.

[slavrenz]

Here's a thought...

Drive to the nearest Mazda dealership and ask.

Genius idea!

And yeah, where the previous owner or owners bought the car from has nothing to do with where you should be able to get warranty work done. If its under warranty, its under warranty, and if its not, its not. Or thats how it works in the States...

Or just call them on a telephone (thought)

[slavrenz]

BTW, if anyone's looking for the Canadian EGR valve, it's now listed on RockAuto.com as Part # EVG1124. It's actually $5 cheaper than the regular EGR valve they have on there (only $119). :)

[avux09]

BTW, if anyone's looking for the Canadian EGR valve, it's now listed on RockAuto.com as Part # EVG1124. It's actually $5 cheaper than the regular EGR valve they have on there (only $119). :)

I can't find this number on their webpage, their price is $216, not much different then Autozone.

[mckernan]

i just got back from mazda today,
the warrenty is good for protege under 7 years old.
(so you'd need to have an '03)

but i got mine replaced free today, and they can check with your VIN,
just call them

[MK_JPX]

Can anyone tell me if the egr valve is located at the same spot in the 1.6, i took a quick look and didnt see anything that looks like it, ill have to look better tomorow

[mckernan]

you can't see it unless you remove the hose connecting the maf to the tb
it would be direcly undernieth the tb

[MK_JPX]

well i found it, sprayed some crown T40 on the srews this morning, then waited like an hour before trying to get the screws out. Got them out with no problem at all. Used a vice grip to get the 4 small screws off. I used the wire wheel on the whole thing because it was pretty rusty, cleaned the inside with picks and brushed and stuff, gave it a varosole bath and put it all back together with fresh screws, oiled her with 5w30 and put her back on. Didint notice any change in the idling, but I didnt really go test it yet.

She was very dirty do haha

[GoFast]

Didint notice any change in the idling, but I didnt really go test it yet.

you have to go to test idle? (uhm)

[MK_JPX]

i meant drive it around, i just turned it on to make sure it started properly, then had to go back to work. Thats what i meant.

[GoFast]

ahhh ok..that makes more sense.

[avux09]

Well, I bit the bullet and purchased another EGR valve for this 1.6 L engine after removing and cleaning had no effect. I did find the metal vacuum tube coming off the EGR port was plugged with carbon.

The new valve had no effect, CEL back on. Don't know if it could be a bad boost sensor (I believe that's what the rubber hose connected to the metal tube is).

I got the valve from Clearlyauto.com, about $35 less then Onlinemnazdaparts.com.

[80sGuy]

When you fix something that has to do with the CEL, do not reset the light, instead; let it ride so you'll know IF and when the light do turn off by itself - then problem solved.

I fixed my second CEL at 121k (first one by Mazda under warranty at 38K for MAF) by replacing the downstream O2 Sensor based on a Sensor code, kept the light on - 500 miles later it disappeared. The third CEL popped up around 125k, didn't know what code it was but replaced upstream O2 sensor, new NGK Platinum plugs and Ignition Wires (all which needs to be replaced anyway); kept light on and drove for more than 800 miles - light disappeared, now car has 129,000 miles and the CEL remained off.

In your case, just drive it for about 800-1,000 miles first, wait and see if the CEL resets (hopefully it does) then you're set.

[StealthWyvern]

When you fix something that has to do with the CEL, do not reset the light, instead; let it ride so you'll know IF and when the light do turn off by itself - then problem solved.

I fixed my second CEL at 121k (first one by Mazda under warranty at 38K for MAF) by replacing the downstream O2 Sensor based on a Sensor code, kept the light on - 500 miles later it disappeared. The third CEL popped up around 125k, didn't know what code it was but replaced upstream O2 sensor, new NGK Platinum plugs and Ignition Wires (all which needs to be replaced anyway); kept light on and drove for more than 800 miles - light disappeared, now car has 129,000 miles and the CEL remained off.

In your case, just drive it for about 800-1,000 miles first, wait and see if the CEL resets (hopefully it does) then you're set.

that doesnt always work. it may work right after so many cycles but it can always come back. Also just because the CEL light goes off the code is still stored in the computer.

[80sGuy]

True, but if the problem is taken care of there's no reason for the light to come back on even if the code's been stored in the system.

The best way to prevent a "Check Engine Light" from coming back (or at all) is to maintain your car to tip-top condition. This means regular maintenance like replacing items that needs to be replaced, ie; if your car's over 100k in mileage, it is basic common sense to change out the O2 sensors, replace the plugs to platinum or equivalent, and Plug Wires. Also, regular service intervals like changing the air filter on a regular basis, the oil every 4 or 5,000 miles, cleaning the MAF every now and then help keeps everything else clean - especially for the EGR Valve (I was fortunate enough and haven't experienced problems with it - yet.)

[mckernan]

if you leave the cel on it just runs rich for no reason.

dont even the dealers reset it?
so people dont complain when they leave with the same cel on that they drove in with

[80sGuy]

If the dealer fixed it, then they do reset the ECU and thus the light should be OFF.
CEL's should not be left ON, but only if you plan to diagnose the problem that you'd tried fixing or had it fixed. The whole idea for leaving it on (only for a short span) is to see if the problem had been rectified. Resetting it doesn't make a difference if the problem hadn't been fixed in the first place, unless you're the dealer and know EXACTLY where the problem is after a thorough diagnose, even that, dealers sometimes fail to address the issue of a CEL.

[mckernan]

lol, yeah, and then charge you 75$ to take off the the negative battery terminal for 1/2 second

[280z]

Today (July 6, 2009), I called my local Mazda stealership about getting the EGR replaced under warranty. I've got an '02 P5 with 127,000 miles.

They said it wasn't eligible because I have too many miles on the car.

Guess I'll clean the EGR myself.

[Shub]

I have an '02 PR5. I purchased it used with around 60k miles on it. Shortly after buying it, I noticed a rough idle and sometimes loss of power at higher speeds on the freeway (scary!) along with the P0300 CEL code.

I assumed it was the EGR, but to my understanding EGR will only affect the idle and not result in the loss of power at freeway speeds. Anyways, I inspected the Coil Packs which looked fine, but replaced both with ones from Autozone (33.99 each) and its been running with no problems the last week.

I know this is a little off-topic, but thought I'd help anyone with this same issue.

[ND4MSP]

did anyone notice an increase in boost response after cleaning? thx

[skilletrx]

I too had sporadic idling issues with a P0300 code (multiple cylinder misfire), and was going to clean out EGR. Tried replacing coil packs (which looked fine thru visual inspection), and that fixed it.

[ABigBadZebra]

I have a 2000 DX 1.6. I have lots of problems. Well, the car does anyway. Was getting misfire codes, replaced spark plugs and all was well for about 3 days of driving, then the SHTF. Although the car is running fine (as far as I can tell), I've compiled a list of the codes I am getting:

P0402 - EGR Excessive Detected
Possible Fix(es): EGR Valve (Clean or Replace)

P0302 - Cylinder 2 misfire
Possible Fix(es): Coil, Plug Wires, EGR Valve

P0442 - Evap Control System Leak Detected (small leak)
Possible Fix(es): Gas Cap, EVAP purge valve (PURGE SOLENOID VALVE), catch tank

P0455 - Evap Control System Leak Detected (no purge flow or large leak)
Possible Fix(es): Gas Cap, Vacuum leak

Pretty sure the last two codes are a different issue, but I plan to pull the EGR valve (looks to be right behind the TB on the 1.6 - possibly easier to get to) and get back to you guys. If not, then coil packs for the misfire, but the P0402 code points at the EGR as well.

I have a flashing CEL.

Just trying to get this thing running again so I can get rid of my other car and that car payment.

Let me know if I'm heading in the wrong direction.

Thanks!

[mckernan]

a flashing cel means it's just a little serious...

i wouldn't drive the car. fix it right away

[avux09]

My daughter took her 2000 1.6L back to school with the CEL still burning w/ a P0402 code. As I stated earlier I bought a new EGR valve with no help. (Anyone want a used EGR valve, make me an offer) I've since found a TSB explaining to clean an EGR port for this code. Since I don't have the car for a while, maybe someone w/ this code could check this fix? Here's the TSB.

Also another potential fix.

[Goldmember]

thanks this helped so much.my car runs so smooth now.

[darocket]

thanks mine... i have an extra one gonna clean it and just swap it out. if you ever in ocala,Fl the i buy you a beer. thanks

[grunt_99]

I removed and am cleaning my EGR valve now... my car was stalling, 125,000 kms, never had this cleaned before. It seems to have clogged at the same time that my alternator died, but anyway...

I had a hell of a time getting it off (2003 protege5). My spring does not look like the loose one pictured at the start of this thread. Mine is tightly coiled, and I can't get it to move at all. Is that normal? I'll attach a pic. Is it jammed in the compressed state, and is that why my car will not idle (at idle my tach bounces like a kid on a trampoline, low, then blips up, until it stalls).

Just wondering if I should do anything before I go to the trouble of reinstalling everything. Do I need a new one???

And what is supposed to get cleaned, the walls of the holes, or is it the parts at the bottom of the openings? I can't really get at the bottom, I just scraped the sides a bit, and let it soak in Carb cleaner (Gunk's Carb Medic) for a couple of hours. Is that adequate product & time?

Thanks for the help, i'LL probably try to do the IAC when I get the tool, too.

[avux09]

Yours is gummed up, that spring should not be compressed. Try to clean the valve so it will move again but it's probably time for a new one.

[grunt_99]

Thanks. I spoke to the dealer and found out I'm covered under the extended warranty, for the new type with different hoses.

So my question now is, can I drive the car in w/o reinstalling the valve? Will it run/idle at all, or just die? Keep in mind, when installed, my faulty valve causes the car to be almost undrivable anyway. Can I save myself the agony of trying to reinstall this thing, or will it be even worse with none installed? My bear-paw hands are going to have a nighmare tring to find those mounting holes under the throttle body. I might even consider towing it in LOL.

[avux09]

If it runs you can drive it, nothing will be damaged. I'd be surprised if it ran though w/ 2 holes in the manifold. You may try removing the battery, that helps make room for reinstalling the EGR as well as the black plastic air intake fitting.

[mckernan]

you mean ppl actually attempted this w/o taking the intake hose off?

they deserve applause, i couldn't even fit my arm in with it in the way

[grunt_99]

lol, not me. I'd have never got it off without removing that. I also removed the strut brace and battery amung other junk :)

[StealthWyvern]

lol, not me. I'd have never got it off without removing that. I also removed the strut brace and battery amung other junk :)

If it makes your life easier then remove it! lol

[thatdude]

s

[thorracing271]

Im getting rpm jumps from 1200 to around 500 with violent shaking. Im going to take it off tomorrow and go to town with a big can on carb spray. Im kind of afraid, my car is just creeping up on 100,000 and I guarantee this thing has never been looked at.
So is everyone using motor oil to re lube?

[TheMAN]

I removed and am cleaning my EGR valve now... my car was stalling, 125,000 kms, never had this cleaned before. It seems to have clogged at the same time that my alternator died, but anyway...

I had a hell of a time getting it off (2003 protege5). My spring does not look like the loose one pictured at the start of this thread. Mine is tightly coiled, and I can't get it to move at all. Is that normal? I'll attach a pic. Is it jammed in the compressed state, and is that why my car will not idle (at idle my tach bounces like a kid on a trampoline, low, then blips up, until it stalls).

Just wondering if I should do anything before I go to the trouble of reinstalling everything. Do I need a new one???

And what is supposed to get cleaned, the walls of the holes, or is it the parts at the bottom of the openings? I can't really get at the bottom, I just scraped the sides a bit, and let it soak in Carb cleaner (Gunk's Carb Medic) for a couple of hours. Is that adequate product & time?

Thanks for the help, i'LL probably try to do the IAC when I get the tool, too.

the motor/spring rusted, that's why its stuck open... don't any of you read the canadian EGR thread I posted? cleaning this thing is a big waste of time and won't fix the problem forever... it will just come back

with all the trouble taking it off, wasting time cleaning it, wasting time putting it back on, you're better off buying a new one and never have to worry about it again... and if you're in canada, you might be able to get yours fixed under a special warranty also

[imola.zhp]

^ thats about where I'm at, again.

I think I've cleaned it 3 times now...

[thorracing271]

attempting to get this S.O.B. off right now but im failing badly. I cant see how you guys got a wrench or rachet to fit in there and be able to break the 2 12mm bolts loose

any tips please?

[thorracing271]

some helllllp MEEE! hahaha :D

[thorracing271]

hours later, I finally got the thing removed using a craftsman micro ratchet. Now off to soak in some carb cleaner

[mckernan]

well let us know!
i have the part number if you need a new one

[thorracing271]

the spring and valve seem to be in good shape. No rust on either component, so all I need to do is clean out all that carbon build up.

[mckernan]

yeah, when i cleaned mine there wasn't actually that much build-up.

it also didn't fix the problem, appearently the valve was just defective in some way.

[TheMAN]

yes, it's called rust
you could got a NEW and much better one for FREE under warranty at your canadian dealership instead of wasting time messing with it

if you're american, you're SOL... just buy a new one and get on with life

[mckernan]

yes, it's called rust
you could got a NEW and much better one for FREE under warranty at your canadian dealership instead of wasting time messing with it

if you're american, you're SOL... just buy a new one and get on with life

'tis what i did, right after cleaning it

the part is 200$ here so i looked into it:)

[Laser Blue]

subbin'

[hedlesschkn]

just got my EGR out, had to take out the cold air and sprawl myself over the engine bay, diving down a bit and then bend my arms in directions they dont bend with a tiny little rachet to get those rusty 12mm bolts off... no big deal...(hand)

round one: rust remover
round two: goo gone
round three: grill cleaner "cuts through heavy grease baked on foods and carbon" (should do the trick)
round four: WD-40 for lube and more rust removal / prevention

she was throwing P0300 codes before and shuttering but only every so often, checked the fuel pump filter sock (looked clean but i cleaned it extra just in case), checked plugs (look almost new), checked coils (meet the manual's ohm testing, might replace them anyways), checked the high tension wires for the plugs (meet manuals ohm testing too) so if the EGR valve doesnt fix her shes going to the stealership unless you guys have any other ideas? (shrug)

[Laser Blue]

just got my EGR out, had to take out the cold air and sprawl myself over the engine bay, diving down a bit and then bend my arms in directions they dont bend with a tiny little rachet to get those rusty 12mm bolts off... no big deal...(hand)

round one: rust remover
round two: goo gone
round three: grill cleaner "cuts through heavy grease baked on foods and carbon" (should do the trick)
round four: WD-40 for lube and more rust removal / prevention

she was throwing P0300 codes before and shuttering but only every so often, checked the fuel pump filter sock (looked clean but i cleaned it extra just in case), checked plugs (look almost new), checked coils (meet the manual's ohm testing, might replace them anyways), checked the high tension wires for the plugs (meet manuals ohm testing too) so if the EGR valve doesnt fix her shes going to the stealership unless you guys have any other ideas? (shrug)

I'd be curious to know whether the EGR fix worked before looking to other areas, although the other tests/checks you ran were all good ideas.

[hedlesschkn]

AMAZING! i just took her for a test drive after the valve clean and the results are excellent. after each of my previous attempts at fixing the misfire probem i drove to the local VIP, sat in the parking lot for a few mins and then started her up. it would either studder and nearly die after that distance or i could get it to crap out by turning the car off while moving and engine breaking to start it back up just down the street. well after the clean i cant get her to misfire, tried using the AC, the heater, engine braking to start the car a few times, did my VIP auto center test drive etc etc. and the best part is now it idles even better than before and throttle responce is noticably improved. my shifting magically became so smooth i could convince some people i did a CVT swap!

THANK YOU THANK YOU for the how to! you saved me from a stealership run!

[TheMAN]

good luck
it will just come back sometime in the future

replacing it is the only way to go

[Laser Blue]

good luck
it will just come back sometime in the future

replacing it is the only way to go

I'm confused...

If the reason for the hesitation is the buildup of carbons and/or rust, and cleaning it resolves the problem until it gets crusty again...

Then, if you get a new one wouldn't it also run fine until it got carbons and rust built up in it, necessitating the same removal and cleaning?

If so, why would it be so advantageous to buy a new one? Why spend $200 so that you can clean the crud out of a newer one next time when you could have cleaned the crud out of the old one and saved the money?

[323]

the canadian one is designed differently

[TheMAN]

I'm confused...

If the reason for the hesitation is the buildup of carbons and/or rust, and cleaning it resolves the problem until it gets crusty again...

Then, if you get a new one wouldn't it also run fine until it got carbons and rust built up in it, necessitating the same removal and cleaning?

If so, why would it be so advantageous to buy a new one? Why spend $200 so that you can clean the crud out of a newer one next time when you could have cleaned the crud out of the old one and saved the money?
because the new ones you buy are redesigned and improved parts

SEARCH and READ

[Laser Blue]

I DID search and read... I read the first 28 pages of this thread. It took over an hour. Then I posted my question and read your answer. That took about 45 seconds, proving once again why this forum is so beneficial to all of us.

[TheMAN]

searching and reading does not mean searching and reading THIS thread

search the ENTIRE forum
and since the forum's search sucks, use google to search this site

[hedlesschkn]

i feel like i should be flaming someone instead of talking about EGR valves. so um, RAWR!

[Pmpkinhead]

searching and reading does not mean searching and reading THIS thread

search the ENTIRE forum
and since the forum's search sucks, use google to search this site

Wow, I've never tried thru g**gle. Note to self... and thanks!(drinks)

OOps, I almost forgot: Thats why u r The MAN

[Laser Blue]

Wow, I've never tried thru g**gle. Note to self... and thanks!(drinks)

OOps, I almost forgot: Thats why u r The MAN

+1... Thanks for the tip.

But, having googled til I'm blue, I still have a question... why a different part for canadian cars? Different fuel? Emissions standards? Just curious.

[TheMAN]

I don't even know why I'm bothering to reply to that asinine post

find that thread and READ IT

[xDJ DUBx]

D-bag much? Geez.

How hard is it to answer the question in simple form? It can't be some space age futuristic egr so it should only take a few sentences to answer instead of SEARCH AND READ.

[ghettoracingkid]

+1... Thanks for the tip.

But, having googled til I'm blue, I still have a question... why a different part for canadian cars? Different fuel? Emissions standards? Just curious.


becuase canada is americas hat

[TheMAN]

D-bag much? Geez.

How hard is it to answer the question in simple form? It can't be some space age futuristic egr so it should only take a few sentences to answer instead of SEARCH AND READ.
because it can't be answered simply? :rolleyes:

simple answer = "it's different"
he wanted details, he can go find the post that is a page long to read that is not even worth my time retyping all over the fucking forum which all of you seem to think is not a hassle

if he can't even find it on google, he fails at the intarweb
even Pmpkinhead had no problems doing something so simple

[StealthWyvern]

because it can't be answered simply? :rolleyes:

simple answer = "it's different"
he wanted details, he can go find the post that is a page long to read that is not even worth my time retyping all over the fucking forum which all of you seem to think is not a hassle

if he can't even find it on google, he fails at the intarweb
even Pmpkinhead had no problems doing something so simple

being sthat you refer to it so much just put it as a link in your sig. Then you can call everyone a noob and tell them to check your sig. Then you wont have to reply to a billion post saying look it up.



Edit: It only takes 2 clicks to find it as well... click on "TheMAN"'s profile and click on threads started... Its that easy people

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123732861

[TheMAN]

unlike many here, I prefer not to clutter my sig with a page long of crap

[xDJ DUBx]

A link is only one extra line, no extra line if you just add it to one of your existing lines. Not sure how that turns into a long page of crap.

[TheMAN]

I was refering to the people who like to use a couple of huge pics and a bunch of lines in their sigs

[Laser Blue]

Thanks Stealth, for posting the link. And thanks to The Man for having written it.

Ironic though... I quit searching through the Forum because I was told it was worthless, and used the recommended Google Search which never brought up the link to this great post which was on the Forum...

[Reojeff]

Hey guys, I'm new here. Just bought my daughter a 01 preotege 1.6L.
I am cleaning the EGR and found the little metal tube (hose was attached, looks like a vacuum hose) on top of where the egr attached was totally clogged. It cleaned out mostly but then is solidly plugged at the bottom. Before I drill it out, should that little metal tube be totally clear so my wire probe comes out the other side?
Don't want to drill a hole where it's not supposed to be.
Thanks in advance.

[Laser Blue]

Can you put up pics? One close-up, the other from a little back so we can get oriented as to where exactly this tube is..



Hey guys, I'm new here. Just bought my daughter a 01 preotege 1.6L.
I am cleaning the EGR and found the little metal tube (hose was attached, looks like a vacuum hose) on top of where the egr attached was totally clogged. It cleaned out mostly but then is solidly plugged at the bottom. Before I drill it out, should that little metal tube be totally clear so my wire probe comes out the other side?
Don't want to drill a hole where it's not supposed to be.
Thanks in advance.

[Reojeff]

Thanks, anyway. I identified it as the EGR boost sensor tube. I was just afraid to forecully clear it for how hard the blockage was. It did clear with a drill bit and I was able to clean it all out.
Thanks for the response. Probably will talk to you soon!!!

[TheMAN]

what are you talking about? there's no rubber hoses on the 1.6 egr itself! unless yours was changed out to the canadian one which shouldn't get any carbon buildup in the hoses!

you need to post a pic of what you're talking about

[avux09]

Reojeff,
That metal tube w/ the rubber hose attached should be clear, I used a drillbit to clean it. Didn't fix my P0402 code though. Why did you clean it, was the CEL on or was it running bad? My post on 7/25/09 has a couple pdf's attached that may fix the P0402 code.

[Topper_Harlee]

For those of you that having a hard time removing those 4 screws. Go to Harborfreight Tools and get one of these (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93481). The nice thing about this one is that it uses regular bit, not the other that uses the bigger bit which is impossible to find. Why do you want this? Because in case you have to remove the Idle Control Valve (http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2001/mazda/protege/fuel_injection/idle_control_valve.html). This thing is being held by the same type of soft screws that will be strip if you try a regular screwdriver. Hope this help.

[TheMAN]

I think I told people to do that already but everyone has forgetten/not care

[dandan2]

I was refering to the people who like to use a couple of huge pics and a bunch of lines in their sigs

some people are proud of what they have done to their car and are tired of being pm'ed for a mod list. just a simple way to keep this from happening!

[thorracing271]

sorry for the thread jack but......
does anyone know where to find a thread on removal and cleaning of the Idle Control Valve? Thanks for the help, it is appreciated :D

[TheMAN]

some people are proud of what they have done to their car and are tired of being pm'ed for a mod list. just a simple way to keep this from happening!
and I don't reply to stupid PMs... not a problem for me

[dandan2]

dont hate on people with a mod list and a sig because u choose to stay with a mostly stock msp conversion!

[TheMAN]

my mods have nothing to do with how my sig is nor have nothing to do with the issue... I'm not ashamed of what I have if that's what you're trying to make me look like

I just hate people who have a sig that fills up an entire page.. huge pic of their car with some hot girl, some random "funny" pic, all their mods line by line instead of all on 1 line, etc

[Topper_Harlee]

sorry for the thread jack but......
does anyone know where to find a thread on removal and cleaning of the Idle Control Valve? Thanks for the help, it is appreciated :D

I'm in the process of doing that right now. It's pretty straight forward.

1) Remove the rubber hose
2) Umplug the connector
3) Here's the hard part if you don't have the correct tool. Remove the 4 screws. Screwdriver won't work, you'll just strip the screws. See my post above about what to do about that.

I'm gonna go out and finish the rest right now. Oh, Autozone wants $499 for that part!!! I got mine from partsgeek.com for about $184.

[Topper_Harlee]

Update:

Cleaned my stepson's EGR about 6 months ago (thread #806). About couple of weeks ago, he came home with the car having hard time starting and rough idling. I didn't think it was the EGR since hard starting was not involved. Autozone code reader said:

1st time:
Idle control system RPM lower than expected

Probable cause:
Large vacuum leak
Blocked Air intake or exhaust system
Throttle body damage
Engine Mechanical contition

2nd time:
Random cylinder misfire detected

Probable cause:
Lean Air/Fuel ratio
Weak ignition system
Engine mechanical condition
Vacuum leak affecting one cylinder


So we replaced the Idle Control Valve which didn't fix it. As a last resort, we decided to take a look at the EGR again...Guess what? The damn valve was basically stuck!! We soaked it over night, it still won't move freely so I took Dremel with the cup-wire attachment and clean it out until it moves freely. Reinstalled it, prayed, and start her up.......and she started right up, the rough idling is gone, the CEL is gone. Now she's running smooth as before. Don't know how long it's gonna last this time.

[ND4MSP]

can a clogged egr cause decreased spooling time on a msp?

[Jack Rot]

Wow this is fucking amazing!!!!!! My car is having this exact problem and hopefully this will solve it!!!!! Fuck i love you all!!!!!

[thorracing271]

Wow this is fucking amazing!!!!!! My car is having this exact problem and hopefully this will solve it!!!!! Fuck i love you all!!!!!

Hope you have something similar to this
http://sellinitall.com/images/new%20snap%20on%20fkf936%20short%20flex%2038%20rat chet%202.JPG
Makes the job much easier

[Jack Rot]

im gunna have the mechanics do it, theyre also going to give me an estimate on my rear engine mount which is fucked, its making my exhaust rattle like crazy cuz its pushing it up against the oil pan, and the shitty idle doesnt help

[Jack Rot]

I had a similiar experience, but it took about 1.5 hours for me. The screws being made of cheese is funny as hell! I did not have camel ass tight bolts holding on the EGR valve. Mine were torqued at the factory to "payback for Hiroshima". http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00944815000

http://content.sears.com/data/product_images/009/44815/00944815000-190.jpg


LMFAO!!!!!! XD XD XD (shocked)(shocked)

[thorracing271]

ya, the screws are the same youd find on any carburator, complete shit! I had to put all my weight into it to get them off with a regular screwdriver. next time I will take them out and have them replaced.

[txtcain]

i just bought the EGR valve gasket but it looks kinda small i got it from autozone it says 93-95 but they said its the right one and it doesn't matter its FEL-PRO part number 70431 can someone verify this.

[Laser Blue]

The EGR valve looks completely different for the early 90's models, so it seems reasonable that the gasket would be different too.

[rcampbellsauto]

Thank you so much for the info on code PO 401 and dirty EG valve. You saved me time and money! The description and pictures helped so much in the repair.

[SoonP5ismine]

im proud to announce that the new redesigned egr valve that i installed at 50000 miles is lasting longer than the original so far. I am at 101000 miles now.

[sephiroth]

my mods have nothing to do with how my sig is nor have nothing to do with the issue... I'm not ashamed of what I have if that's what you're trying to make me look like

I just hate people who have a sig that fills up an entire page.. huge pic of their car with some hot girl, some random "funny" pic, all their mods line by line instead of all on 1 line, etc

I agree, it's a sig, not a 'look at me' section.

[blkspeed]

my speed 3 is running at 500 to maybe 300. i did a bg induction cleaning but it didnt do anything. the thing is its not a rough idle its just really low, but it hasent stalled yet. i was just wondering if it was the same issue or not

[SoonP5ismine]

are yougetting a CEL? if yes then check the code. i remember on my car i got something like a cylinder misfire or something.

[microman777]

7. Reassembly is the reverse of removal. I suggest resetting the PCM while doing this, so the EGR can readjust after you start it.

8. You may want to follow the Manual's suggestion of measuring the resistance of the pins, but my car runs ten times better now, and I have no stalling issues anymore.



How do I reset the PCM and how do I measure the resistance of the pins for a Mazda MP3 2001?

BTW, I'm at 69,000 miles, it just better to buy an new EGR?

[ucMP3]

How do I reset the PCM and how do I measure the resistance of the pins for a Mazda MP3 2001?

BTW, I'm at 69,000 miles, it just better to buy an new EGR?

By PCM I believe he means the ECU. And you can check reistance with a multimeter.

You can clean the EGR with success, but it will continue to clog up and need cleaning. If you get an updated EGR (Mazda did a re-design) or even better, a Canadian EGR valve, then you shouldn't need to clean it ever again. The Canadian ones are not cheap tho... Over $300 IIRC... You can find new ones (the redeisgned versions) on Ebay tho I think.

[microman777]

By PCM I believe he means the ECU. And you can check reistance with a multimeter.

You can clean the EGR with success, but it will continue to clog up and need cleaning. If you get an updated EGR (Mazda did a re-design) or even better, a Canadian EGR valve, then you shouldn't need to clean it ever again. The Canadian ones are not cheap tho... Over $300 IIRC... You can find new ones (the redeisgned versions) on Ebay tho I think.

ahhh, thanks man! :)

[microman777]

Read that the Canadian EGR was revised due to the cold weather there. That may explain why mine acted up yesterday when it was 50 degree's here in Calli.

[xDJ DUBx]

Calli as in CA?

[microman777]

Calli as in CA?

Yea! (cool)

[xDJ DUBx]

So or Nor?

[ucMP3]

South or North?

*fixed

[xDJ DUBx]

So cal, nor cal, we cali ppl know what we're talking about, you outsider.

[microman777]

So or Nor?

Sunny Southern Calli! Its been crazy cold here lately! MP3 is all acting weird in this cold weather.

[ucMP3]

So cal, nor cal, we cali ppl know what we're talking about, you outsider.

<~~~Born in So Cal... lol Moved to the nasty Nati when I was in 2nd grade.

I'm pickin up what your puttin down. How else would I have known how to correct it?? lol (lol2)

[xDJ DUBx]

Pickin up what your putting down? hahaha

microman777, what city bro? You on mocc and/or scm?

[microman777]

Pickin up what your putting down? hahaha

microman777, what city bro? You on mocc and/or scm?

In between the OC and LA!

[xDJ DUBx]

Sign up and come out some meets bro, we don't have any mp3s yet!

www.moccforums.com

www.socalmazda.net

[microman777]

Sign up and come out some meets bro, we don't have any mp3s yet!

www.moccforums.com

www.socalmazda.net

I'll check out the sites. Thanks!

[slavrenz]

By PCM I believe he means the ECU. And you can check reistance with a multimeter.

You can clean the EGR with success, but it will continue to clog up and need cleaning. If you get an updated EGR (Mazda did a re-design) or even better, a Canadian EGR valve, then you shouldn't need to clean it ever again. The Canadian ones are not cheap tho... Over $300 IIRC... You can find new ones (the redeisgned versions) on Ebay tho I think.

The Canadian version is about $110 on RockAuto.com - what's weird is that it's actually cheaper than the normal EGR valve

[ucMP3]

The Canadian version is about $110 on RockAuto.com - what's weird is that it's actually cheaper than the normal EGR valve

Really... Might have to look into one of those before next winter.

[microman777]

Does the EGR Valve gasket need to be replaced when it is cleaned too?

[thorracing271]

Does the EGR Valve gasket need to be replaced when it is cleaned too?

Not unless damaged...It is a metal gasket, so i soaked it in carb cleaner and gave it a nice scrub.

[microman777]

Just cleaned the EGR. Wasn't really that dirty, other than being really dry, and needed lubing. Started car, and it seems RPM's were smoother. But then later, after coming to a complete stop, RPM's dipped again.

What do I fix, change, clean next??????? (confused)

[CrazyCaker]

6. Lube the shaft inside with a drop or two of oil and also lube the outside beneath the spring.


I'm sorry but this is got to be the stupidest idea ever. Putting oil on the valve stem? Are you kidding me?? No wonder why you guys have to clean it again shortly after following this how-to. That drop of oil is going to gum the shit out of the valve stem in no time with the heat that's passing through that valve. A better idea would be to use a graphite or teflon based lube, if anything at all.

[microman777]

Have you ever cleaned a EGR?

[CrazyCaker]

Have you ever cleaned a EGR?

Are you asking me? Of course I have. Do you really think I'd comment on something I haven't done before?

[StealthWyvern]

Are you asking me? Of course I have. Do you really think I'd comment on something I haven't done before?

Just curious but what are your results on cleaning it without oiling it? Obviously better by your statement previously but have you had to re-clean it? If so what is the duration you are able to go before having to re-clean it?

[CrazyCaker]

I had over 60k kms on mine after cleaning it, and it still didn't show any signs of sticking again. But I have since removed the egr altogether due to my MAM Thumper mani not having an egr bung on it.

If you think about it however, it makes perfect sense why putting oil on the valve stem will gum it up again. Over time the oil will break down and it's not being constantly refreshed like oil in your engine is.

[StealthWyvern]

I had over 60k kms on mine after cleaning it, and it still didn't show any signs of sticking again. But I have since removed the egr altogether due to my MAM Thumper mani not having an egr bung on it.

If you think about it however, it makes perfect sense why putting oil on the valve stem will gum it up again. Over time the oil will break down and it's not being constantly refreshed like oil in your engine is.


It does make perfect sense and should be obvious to. I have to admit It didn't dawn on me tell you pointed it out.

Edit: CrazyCaker you have a PM.

[imola.zhp]

Just cleaned the EGR. Wasn't really that dirty, other than being really dry, and needed lubing. Started car, and it seems RPM's were smoother. But then later, after coming to a complete stop, RPM's dipped again.

What do I fix, change, clean next??????? (confused)

Did you unhook the battery?

My P5 always idles funny, acts like its going to die at stops, after I unhook the battery. I was under the impression this was the case with other Protogays as well. Mine usually clears up after about 30 miles...

[xDJ DUBx]

Thats the ecu relearning the car, it gives a shitty idle for the first 50mi or so after disconnecting the batt.

[microman777]

Thats the ecu relearning the car, it gives a shitty idle for the first 50mi or so after disconnecting the batt.

I hope that's the case, as I did take out the battery to be able get the EGR out.

BTW, it was a pain to get to the EGR, and if I didn't have my tiny socket set I would of never been able to get it out! But for the dealer to charge $215 just to clean it made me try my hardest to get at it!

[imola.zhp]

^ I'm sure that is what happened, I've disconnected my battery lots in the short 17 months I've owned it for various reasons, ha ha...

[microman777]

Man, started my car today, and my engine ran like crap, 100 times worse than before I cleaned the EGR. Seems that it probably is stuck or something.

Guess I'm off to the dealership to pour out my life savings just to fix this dumb protege. Last time I had a nightmare like this was when I owned a Ford. Should of stuck with Toyota. Those cars run forever, maintenance free!!!!!!

[StealthWyvern]

Man, started my car today, and my engine ran like crap, 100 times worse than before I cleaned the EGR. Seems that it probably is stuck or something.

Guess I'm off to the dealership to pour out my life savings just to fix this dumb protege. Last time I had a nightmare like this was when I owned a Ford. Should of stuck with Toyota. Those cars run forever, maintenance free!!!!!!

yep, right tell when they literally rust in two in about 10 years time. Neighbors an avid yota nut and has 3 trucks literally rust in two and he doesnt take it to the ocean and thats in florida! Hate to see what happens when you take them up north.

[microman777]

Dealership killed me! $485 to fix car now! Don't have time to play mechanic, so I said get it done! ouch!!!!!!!

[StealthWyvern]

Dealership killed me! $485 to fix car now! Don't have time to play mechanic, so I said get it done! ouch!!!!!!!

ouch... 485 is at the tune of a new EGR valve, gasket and installation or did they sock ya for more?

[microman777]

ouch... 485 is at the tune of a new EGR valve, gasket and installation or did they sock ya for more?

Nope, none of those. All they are doing is new coils and wires! Can u believe that crap! Labor alone is $213!

I just don't have time to mess with it and miss work! I'll get fired, and need a car BAD

[Laser Blue]

You do understand that replacing coils and wires is a 15 minute job, just unplugging one set and plugging in the other? Why not buy the parts and do it yourself, and then send the $215 to me?

[microman777]

You do understand that replacing coils and wires is a 15 minute job, just unplugging one set and plugging in the other? Why not buy the parts and do it yourself, and then send the $215 to me?

Yea, I know how easy it is. I just changed the spark plugs Friday, but its has to do with getting my car up and running. I wanted to make sure they got it fixed right because I missed work Friday to try to get it running. I don't have time to play mechanic like I said earlier. They guarantee the work for 12 months.

[microman777]

My main thing now is what if I do it myself, and it still runs like crap! I can't afford to do that anymore, costing me time off my job! Paying $485 now is nothing compared to me loosing my job!

[ucMP3]

Yea, I know how easy it is. I just changed the spark plugs Friday, but its has to do with getting my car up and running. I wanted to make sure they got it fixed right because I missed work Friday to try to get it running. I don't have time to play mechanic like I said earlier. They guarantee the work for 12 months.

That's because the parts usually give out after about 18 months, lol. They fix a "problem" but they don't fix the cause of the problem. So it rears it's head again 18 months later, and boom, they get paid to repair it again. Double anal sex at the dealership...

*O, And CrazyCaker is 100% correct, you really should not oil/lube your EGR after cleaning it... You just cleaned out all the oil/carbon deposits clogging it up and then you put in "lube" just to start the gumming process all over again...