How To: EGR Removal and Cleaning, Rough Idle Fix

[red95_240sx]

ive unplugged it b4 with no CEL.

[Protege_Speed]

I posted this thread yesterday in regards to a problem I am having. A friend of mine thinks it could be my EGR stuck open. Can you guys take a look at this thread and tell me if you think it may be the EGR or any other ideas on what it might be? Thanks.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3285340#post3285340

[red95_240sx]

Ive unplugged my valve, and my idle still bogs sometimes. So...

[hitjoey]

I've got a good friend who's a tech by trade and he recommended to clean the MAF & idle air control valve. He said that cleaning both of them should solve the idle problem. My MIL light isn't on but the rough idle is still going...my mpg went to crap also. Damn Mazda!!!

[SoonP5ismine]

yes mazda sux but im dealing with it as i have no money for a honda right now.

[boostdprotegelx]

gotta do it.

[hitjoey]

Cleaned my MAF, didn't help. Cleaned the IAC, made things worse. Cleaned the throttle body and replaced the IAC and it solved the problem. I sell parts wholesale so I get a great deal on parts, $87.00 for the IAC. I have an account that lets me borrow his tools. Next on my list was the EGR boost sensor. Dealer item only, thank goodness this headache is over....for now.

[red95_240sx]

most definately feels better unplugged. did a few test.

[Tzar177]

i thought there was a way u could leave the egr plugged in, cut some of the egr piping and place a breather filter on the end without gettin a CEL.....

[nycmsp718]

hey hitjoey, (im having the same problem with the stalling issue.) so you are saying replacing the ICA will fix the problem?

[hitjoey]

hey hitjoey, (im having the same problem with the stalling issue.) so you are saying replacing the ICA will fix the problem?

I can't say for sure if it will fix your problem. I cleaned both the Throttle Body and replaced the IAC valve at the same time. The stalling was so bad I needed to keep the RPM's up at all times. As of today the idle problem is still there but barely noticeable. Honestly it's been there since I bought the car at 35,000 miles. It's now at 61,000. I like this car but I'm looking at getting another Honda.

[kc3635]

You did the open throttle and spray away technique to clean your throttle body?

I've tried a lot of things. The only thing that worked ever so slightly was when my friend ran cleaner through my vac lines. Don't ask how he did it though, I wasn't awake. (dunno)

[hitjoey]

I removed the TB and cleaned with parts cleaner/TB cleaner and a plastic brush.

[kc3635]

ooo might have solved the problem. *crossing fingers*

re-routed my vacs, cleaned the TB, and raised idle, riding nicely at the moment.

[Sunshine Unit]

So... I've seen that most of u guys were able to find, remove and clean the EGR valve, not like me... (bow)

I have a 1.6 protege 2000 and I really can't find where the valve is located...

Please HELP me to find it... I would be soooooooooooooooooooo happy (drinks)

[NVP5White]

Just wanted to post my $0.02:

At this point everyone is well aware that this is a simple procedure with clear instructions for removing the valve in the first post. However, I discovered that the cleaning instructions were a little oversimplified. Brakcleen or intake/TB cleaner is not sufficient to remove carbon build-up. You must use a wire brush or stiff plastic brush to get at the carbon. Brakcleen or TB cleaner is necessary to loosen the carbon but not sufficient to remove it.

I figured out a way to get the carbon out by improvising a brush, but if I had read it in the OP I would have been prepared with a proper wire brush.

I was not suffering from rough idle, rather I think I was experiencing pinging when I went WOT at moderate RPM. I ran a can of BG 44K at nearly the same time so its difficult to say which one effected the pinging, but the combination has successfully removed the pinging, at least for now.

[dfphoto]

I suck, I can't get my hands in to take this out any help would be appreciated...

How do you pull the 6 pin plug out as well... thanks in advance...

[NVP5White]

I suck, I can't get my hands in to take this out any help would be appreciated...

How do you pull the 6 pin plug out as well... thanks in advance...

If you have done the procedure as Vega stated in the OP, then there is not much left to do but squeeze your hand in there. I had do some funny maneuvering with the tool to get my hand in there. IIRC, I even had to pass the tool down from above once my right hand was in position.

It will also help to feel around for the bolts without a tool in your hand. They are in a different position then I thought they'd be. Plus the positioning of the wrench handle is tricky. Once broken loose, I was able to unscrew them by hand the rest of the way. Remember to retrieve the metal gasket.

The plug is a pain. I usually jam a small screwdriver in between the clip mechanism and pull and wiggle until it comes off. I end up jamming the screwdriver from both directions cause I can never remember which one allows the connector to, um, disconnect.

[dfphoto]

Hi thanks for the reply, I am trying to do as Vega noted in his how to, but not sure why this is so hard for me. I say that, but I am not a mechanic. On dirt bikes yes, basic stuff yes, houses yes but the car is very tough. I honestly don't know which hose Vega is speaking of right in the beginning I was looking, and I see two hoses that are in the way but nothing more than that wire plug.

I tried to jam my screw driver in, but I just didn't have the room to get it in. Maybe it's my fingers which are long but sometimes that's not a good thing.

I started doubting myself meaning I am not 100% sure I'm trying to remove the correct item although it surely seems like it's correct not since I'm saying that, here's my procedure 1. I took the air hose out the large five then I wanted to pull the wire plug off but I was afraid of breaking something as some have a quick release and I wasn't sure. I was able to loosen the nut on the left but damn if I could get the socket on the right. (I couldn't even get a 12mm wrench working down there not sure if my wrenches are odd because they are offset or if it's me not removing all the hoses. On the hose is Vega referring to the one to the left of the EGR which ends below the air filter box?

Thanks again, I dig this site. BTW, your car looks sweet white is a nice color.

[NVP5White]

here's my procedure 1. I took the air hose out the large five then I wanted to pull the wire plug off but I was afraid of breaking something as some have a quick release and I wasn't sure. I was able to loosen the nut on the left but damn if I could get the socket on the right. (I couldn't even get a 12mm wrench working down there not sure if my wrenches are odd because they are offset or if it's me not removing all the hoses. On the hose is Vega referring to the one to the left of the EGR which ends below the air filter box?

Thanks again, I dig this site. BTW, your car looks sweet white is a nice color.

I probably should take a look under my hood before answering but I'm going to take a stab at annswering anyway. I think when you say "the air hose out the large five" you mean take the intake section that runs between the throttle body and the airbox. This is held on with two screw-type hose clamps. There are two items connected to this. The first is a small diameter black vacuum (?) line. Remove it at the hard plastic elbow fitting. The second is a sensor which is connected by a metal stake which sits in a slot in the intake. I pulled the stake out of the intake instead of disconnecting it at another connection.

Once the intake is off you will have to remove the three wire plug shown tucked out of the way in this picture:

http://www.msprotege.com/members/122%20Vega/DSC00155.JPG

That's the one I pry apart with a small screwdriver.

Now, once everything is out of the way, you still will be working in a pretty tight space. I was def unconfortable with the hand position. But once the bolts are broken loose they come out easily without a tool.

If you still have problems or are confused when I reference a part, just let me know and I will snap a fe pictures showing you what I'm talking about.

[dfphoto]

Hey bro thanks, I did finally get it out the plug was interesting, I viewed the service manual and it showed the different plugs and how to remove. The plug on the EGR needs to be squeezed in towards the wireds then the plug comes out easy.... Then I took a 1/4" ratchet drive and got it in and got the bolts loose what a relief. Once I got that out I used an electric drill to get the 4 phillips off as I have a torn ligament in each thumb so I have no hand strength. Anyway, I used a dremel tool to clean the inside of the EGR valve including a wire brush piece on the dremel that was huge, it really cleaned it up. I then used the Brake Kleen and the Carb cleaner stuff finally I always use some lube on the screws and luckily got it back in it was really hard. but I did it have to say I had a Rocky moment. Anyway, to my surprise the fucking check engine light is still on. I read Vega reset the PCM but here's a new adventure, anyone know how a dumb ass like me can do it?

[NVP5White]

Disconnect the battery and either: 1) leave the dome light on, or 2) pump the brakes to activate your brake lights. With either procedure the point is to drain the electrical system of all power. Leave the battery disconnected for about 5 minutes then reconnect. This will fix your CEL and allow the computer to relearn its EGR routine. There's no set time for this but if after 150 or so miles your CEL returns then you can be pretty sure there something else wrong. It could be the EGR solenoid, but def something besides the valve itself sticking.

[bazooka joe]

clean the IAC while you're in there!!

[dfphoto]

What is the IAC? I will try the battery disconnect I was thinking the same thing. am so serious I'm an full on old neophyte... btw the guy who has the Red P5 with black hood that car looks really nice.

I wish I was young like you guys and the time and money to make this car scream, I drove my bosses EVO Lancer with the V6 and man that was a fun car 5 speed and in 2nd I was doing 90 that was outragous...

[dfphoto]

BTW thank you to everyone on this forum I really dig the energy and sharing of information... Very cool...


it worked left the battery disconnected overnight... now no check engine light

[hitjoey]

IAC. Idle Air Control motor. Be careful those IAC screws strip out easy. Let the motor cool off.



BTW thank you to everyone on this forum I really dig the energy and sharing of information... Very cool...


it worked left the battery disconnected overnight... now no check engine light

[dfphoto]

OOPs spoke too soon F....ing check light went out came on went out and now it's back... F...ing driving me crazy today drove to San Diego and just floored it... I was flooring it to see if there was some carbon build up or something stupid like that that I could blow out but seriously only could floor it for 15-30 seconds at a time due to traffic.


Anyway any suggestions? if I wasn't so sleepy I'd read more I'm sure others have information on the site but if anyone can offer something I'd be most thankful.

btw thanks for the explanation on the IAC...

[amsgator]

did u drill both non foulers all the way? the o2 sensor might need cleaning, not sure

[dfphoto]

Sorry brother, not sure what you mean....

[amsgator]

you had to drill through both of the non foulers so that the o2 sensor would fit into them. there is a how to in the how to section

[dannyboy17]

those bolts are friggin TIGHT! I kept trying and trying without luck. Oh well, I gotta get better tools also.

[rotorhead22]

I was helping my nephew change out his timing belt and we had a severe idle problem after startup. I remembered that he connected the battery with the key on and there was a series of clicks. I knew we had the timing right because we checked it several times. After reviewing this thread for about an hour, i thought that it would do no harm to pull the IAC valve out and have a look. Bingo, it was carboned up really good. I cleaned it off dry first then used some cleaner. I looked down the TB and saw that it was pretty nasty also and cleaned it. The beast started right up and idled. I drove it for about 30 minutes in stop and go traffic and had no problems other than the idle was rough at times. I will suggest that a new EGR valve should be bought.

[kyle's protege5]

can a mod please unsubscribe me from the painfull thread. I've tried twice to no avail.

I can no longer keep reading about people thinking that if they clean a valve that lets exhaust back into their intake their car will run better. The best thing for you car is if the damn thing plugs up completely.

IT IS PURELY FOR EMISSIONS. It just reburns exhaust again to make it cleaner. There is not a lot of oxygen in exhaust (like none really) so tell me how putting it in your intake is a good thing.

Take it off, plug it, make a block off plate, whatever, just disable the thing. Then your car will run good.

[dannyboy17]

Take it off, plug it, make a block off plate, whatever, just disable the thing. Then your car will run good.

Thats what Im doing on the 626 manifold that Im installing soon.

[iluvmacs]

Some would say that without EGR you'll run lean and have EGT and detonation problems. Best arguement I can make to support that is that our cars run rich, expecting to get some gas back through the exhaust.

If you have standalone management, no problem, but I'd be careful with the stock ECU.

Also, it should be noted that the EGR is not active at idle or WOT, so you shouldn't see a decrease in performance while using the EGR.

[shane02pro5]

^Unless it's gooked up or bad and the plunger does not seal closed.

[sapin]

I have a 2002 protege5 and i got the EGR valves problem ..code : (P-401 EGR problem) Mazda had replaced my valve for free. So simply go to a mazda dealer. They will replace your EGR valve for free (if it's really your problem). Too much mazda have this problem. They won't recall all the models that have the problem but they will replace any EGR valves on protege for free (ask your dealer for the years that they a replacing the EGR..i think it's between 2000 and 2003...but im not sure)

Apology my english ...im frech :)

[iluvmacs]

^Unless it's gooked up or bad and the plunger does not seal closed.
Good point. I need to take mine apart and inspect. I'm throwing lean codes and had an abnormally rough idle this morning (and at random times in the past year).

[PGFracing]

If it's clogged up your car won't run, so your saying that you don't need it. How does one then take it off and not use it, or are you suggesting something else?

[kyle's protege5]

Some would say that without EGR you'll run lean and have EGT and detonation problems. Best arguement I can make to support that is that our cars run rich, expecting to get some gas back through the exhaust.

If you have standalone management, no problem, but I'd be careful with the stock ECU.

Also, it should be noted that the EGR is not active at idle or WOT, so you shouldn't see a decrease in performance while using the EGR.
I have a wideband 02 sensor. Car does not run leaner at all with the egr gone. Also our cars do not run rich. 14.7 is as perfect as you can get, and thats what ours do pretty much dead on.
Maybe one person has a "standalone" everybody else has whats known as a "piggyback". They just modify the signal to the injectors and spark plug timing. They dont touch egr sensors. I blocked off my egr at aboput 3000 miles on my car. Did not have a turbo for another yr or so and then did not get the emanage for about 1 1/2yrs after that. Car ran fine from the very begining with no egr valve. (took the damn cats off too!)

And lastly you are correct the egr does not open at idle, but im 90% sure it does at WOT and in the upper throtle position. That way you supposedly dont notice when its dumping that crappy ass, oxygen deleted, carbon monoxide, soot filled crap back into your motor.


If it's clogged up your car won't run, so your saying that you don't need it. How does one then take it off and not use it, or are you suggesting something else?
when its "clogged up" it just means there is soot and carbon under the valve seat (the same crap is also building up in your intake and on and around your intake valves) and it wont close, so you are always putting exhaust back into your intake.
The easiest way for most to "take it off" is to take it off, make a new gasket for it with NO HOLES in it other than the bolt holes. Then just put it back on. Then you dont have to worry about making a plate to cover the hole, and a plug for the mani, if you take it off completely. If yours is not clogged where it does not seal, but you just want to make it stop opening and letting that crap in your motor, just unplug the wire harness plugged into it.

Im at 40,000 now so 37000 miles with no egr, and I'll send you a pic next time i can, my intake is spotless inside.

[iluvmacs]

Cool. I heard of people putting holes in their pistons in other cars when they blocked the EGR.

Easy way to tell is to put a voltmeter on the actuator to see what happens at WOT. I would think V=0 when closed (spring forces it closed).

[Aeridyne]

Just thought I'd lend my 2 cents. Thanks to ALL you guys for helping me resolve and repair my rough/rolling/dipping idle issue!! Here was my problem:

1) Rough standstill idle -- needle hovered up/down 50 RPM from 700
2) Occasionally wanted to stall after a warm start -- RPM dipped to 500
3) Poor fuel economy -- about low 20's
4) No DTCs -- wheww!
5) Engine vibrates/shakes

I performed the following operations:

1) Changed air-filter (ash inside from recent fires)

2) Changed spark plugs w/NGK V-power; old ones were Bosch Pt and were slightly burned at the tips and overheated at the plug boot part (orange ring).

3) Removed, cleaned, lubed and re-installed the EGR valve assembly:

a. this was a serious PAIN to perform! From under the jacked car (on stands), I used three drivers: 3/8" 90 deg swivle socket wrench, 1/4" flex "T" 90 deg socket wrench and 12mm offset boxed hand wrench. It wasn't on too tight. Found it was definitely full of carbon but operating within specs. Used Liquidwrench for the 4 screws. I checked resistance and plunger operation -- all okay. I used SeaFoam Deep Creep and blasted that puppy. Everything was cleaned. Some carbon remained on plunger but freely operated. I pre-installed the bolts & gasket on the assembly and placed blue painters tape over the bolts to hold 'em while squeezing everything back on the manifold.

4) Removed and cleaned IAC solenoid assembly plunger and mounting area on IAC core. Used T-25 tamper-proof screw bit from Craftsman. Piece of cake to do -- used Liquidwrench on the two screws to make life easier. Lots o' carbon on solenoid plunger and mounting area. Plunger sticking to IAC mount. Used SeaFoam Deep Creep to clean.

5) SeaFoam motor treatment through PCV system into intake to remove carbon build-up; used 6 oz. The trick is to have a second person maintain a fast idle while the solvent is slowly sucked through and cut engine.

6) inspected many other parts and found no faults (e.g., PCV, purge control, PS pump, plug wires, vac leaks... I was up until 1:30AM one night! Reset PCM.

Startup and Roadtest: Very close to being a new engine! The motor vibrates some -- good for 67K miles -- but is noticeably smoother. RPM is very stable and so far no unexpected dips. Passed all load tests.

UPDATE: I added a SeaFoam motor treatment to the list and engine has become very smooth. Successful repair cost under $100 including two new tools in my garage arsenal for future sagas!

Can you tell me exactly what you did to do the IAC stuff and whatever you did to the PCV valve? I dont even know what they are, where they are, how to remove them, or what to do to them... (sorry im new to this)

Also i read up some on the seafoam stuff, what is the diff between deep creep and the regular stuff and how do you use them?

[pr5owner]

i disabled my EGR today and reset my ECU, runs perfect (idle and WOT), i agree with that other guy, the EGR to me seems useless.

instead of blocking the EGR i removed it, cleaned it and worked the spring so it would have maximum expansion (had to grind off all the shit inside), i then left the solinoid thing off and just put the EGR back in place, zip tied the solinoid cable to another larger cable and reset the ECU.

[rotorhead22]

Can you tell me exactly what you did to do the IAC stuff and whatever you did to the PCV valve? I dont even know what they are, where they are, how to remove them, or what to do to them... (sorry im new to this)

Also i read up some on the seafoam stuff, what is the diff between deep creep and the regular stuff and how do you use them?

I pulled the IAC off with no problem. You need a T27 Torx bit to take out the 2 screws holding it in. It is located above the throttle body(about the 11 oclock position). Round cylinder with an electical plug on it. CAUTION. Put a paper towel under mounting area, my plunger was stuck but then let loose and fell down to bottom of engine compartment. Took 30 minutes to find.Cleaned the gizmoe and put it back in and it fix the no idle problem we had.

[Aeridyne]

I pulled the IAC off with no problem. You need a T27 Torx bit to take out the 2 screws holding it in. It is located above the throttle body(about the 11 oclock position). Round cylinder with an electical plug on it. CAUTION. Put a paper towel under mounting area, my plunger was stuck but then let loose and fell down to bottom of engine compartment. Took 30 minutes to find.Cleaned the gizmoe and put it back in and it fix the no idle problem we had.[/QUOTE]

I just did my IAC, but i would still like to know about the other one... the PCV haven't seen anything about that.

My reason for posting though is that i have a nice bit that i found that fits perfectly into the GFR's little cheese screws...

for getting those little screws out of the egr, i think the key is to get a phillips bit that really fits good, they are shit, but i didn't even slip once on them once i got the right head in there. I bought a little set from advance auto that was like 10 dollars and comes in a little blue case, they say 'mech power' on the front of the case, the long phillips bit in there is absolutely perfect, it grips so good and fits so perfect that the bit would actually stick to the screw heads and pull out of the driver, a good amount of down pressure (not much, im a weak ass) and they busted loose nice and clean, if anyone wants to see the set i can probly take a pic or try to find them on the site, it really did work really really well, i tried every other screwdriver that i had and almost started to strip one of them until i got this.

[rx7_drifter_]

I stripped one of the bolts from the EGR vavle to the TB. Does anyone know of a way to get it out now?

[amsgator]

they have bolt out kits that sears makes and i believe other company's do to. search rounded nut socket or something like that

[hitjoey]

To remove the screws holding the IAC to the intake you need an impact driver. Sears has one for $25.00 or Snap-On for about $50.00. This is the smart way to do it, if not you'll strip you screws.116713

[iluvmacs]

The EGR bolts into the intake. Take out the intake and you can flip it around and get a good look at it.

You can take the TB off and get closer to it, maybe hit it with a pipe wrench.

[rx7_drifter_]

The EGR bolts into the intake. Take out the intake and you can flip it around and get a good look at it.

You can take the TB off and get closer to it, maybe hit it with a pipe wrench.

Yea I meant to say intake mani (stoned)... I did take off the TB and everything else in the way last time but the bolts were both really stuck and I ended up stripping one. Couldn't fit a wratchet down there so I used a short wratchet wrench but I wasn't able to apply torque to it from a good angle.


amsgator: is the bolt out kit from sears able to fit down in that tight space?

[weitrhino]

My EGR issue is slightly different that the others I have read here.

My '03 runs like a top at 81k but the CEL is on. Advance Auto pulled the code for me and sure enough it pointed to the EGR. I pulled mine out and used nearly a full can of Brake-Kleen to remove all the gunk and then lubed the valve with a little oil just like the tutorial suggests. Reinstallation went smoothly and the car continues to run well. I wouldn't even give a crap but I have to go through state emissions testing again and they won't do it with the CEL on.

So my question is this: How freely should the valve move within the housing? After a thorough cleaning mine was still pretty stiff. Should it basically float back and forth with ease or is a little tension the norm?

cheers, weitrhino

[Aeridyne]

My EGR issue is slightly different that the others I have read here.

My '03 runs like a top at 81k but the CEL is on. Advance Auto pulled the code for me and sure enough it pointed to the EGR. I pulled mine out and used nearly a full can of Brake-Kleen to remove all the gunk and then lubed the valve with a little oil just like the tutorial suggests. Reinstallation went smoothly and the car continues to run well. I wouldn't even give a crap but I have to go through state emissions testing again and they won't do it with the CEL on.

So my question is this: How freely should the valve move within the housing? After a thorough cleaning mine was still pretty stiff. Should it basically float back and forth with ease or is a little tension the norm?

cheers, weitrhino

Mine seemed to still have a little bit of stick to it, even when i cleaned the living crap out of it. I posted somewhere else about what i found regarding the gunk that is present on the intake manifold where the egr bolts to it, that is probably your problem, mine has 157k miles and it was nearly carbonized shut, but there wasn't anything i could, because i don't know how to get that manifold off and back on safely without messing anything up to clean it. But if getting the valve itself clean doesn't help, that could be it anyway. if you take the egr off again, take a mirror and a flashlight and look at where it bolts to the manifold.

[weitrhino]

I hadn't considered carbon in the manifold itself. But I don't think that's the issue because the car seems to run perfectly, idle smoothly and continues to have a crisp throttle response. I don't have a new EGR to compare with, but I still need to know how easily the valve is meant to move back and forth. Again, after cleaning and lubricating I really had to force mine with a big pair of pump pliers to get it to move. This doesn't seem normal, but I want to be certain before shelling out the moolah for a new one.

cheers, weitrhino

[rx7_drifter_]

I hadn't considered carbon in the manifold itself. But I don't think that's the issue because the car seems to run perfectly, idle smoothly and continues to have a crisp throttle response. I don't have a new EGR to compare with, but I still need to know how easily the valve is meant to move back and forth. Again, after cleaning and lubricating I really had to force mine with a big pair of pump pliers to get it to move. This doesn't seem normal, but I want to be certain before shelling out the moolah for a new one.

cheers, weitrhino

The valve is supposed to be move very smoothly. As smooth as... ummm... the reset button on your computer I guess.

Mine was stuck just like yours when I took it off yesterday and what I did was spray brake cleaner in it and let it sit for a while. Then you try to operate the valve with pliers continuously (with the fluid still in) until it gets smoother. Do this a few times as necessary, then repeat it another 2 times with some lube until its smooth enough to work with your finger. Did the trick for mine. Smooth as a reset button (cabpatch)

[weitrhino]

I may have to break down and just buy another one then. After working the valve back and forth for nearly an hour, and greasing the shaft, my efforts made little difference. It sure looked nice and clean!

Thanks for your feedback.

cheers, weitrhino

[kyle's protege5]

I may have to break down and just buy another one then. After working the valve back and forth for nearly an hour, and greasing the shaft, my efforts made little difference. It sure looked nice and clean!

Thanks for your feedback.

cheers, weitrhino

buy mine then! :) only has about 3000 miles on it Looks brand new still!

[weitrhino]

buy mine then! :) only has about 3000 miles on it Looks brand new still!

kyle, you have a PM.


cheers, weitrhino

[pr5owner]

i got a CEL P0140 (EGR flow insufficent) lol

anyway to tell the computer to STFU?

btw my car runs like brand new with the EGR disabled (solinoid removed). i was too lazy to make a block plate. but its the same effect, theres no way the valve can open since theres nothing to push the spring in.

if i cant get rid of the engine light then i guess ill stop caring then.

[93Protege5]

Sweet Thread. I printed off all of these pages. Should make some good bathroom reading. :)

[sting88]

At 72,650KM encountered rough idle that progressed to stalling and check engine light after 5 more days. Cleaned EGR with Carb cleaner. Fixed problem.

After less than 300KM rough idle returned. Cleaned EGR again but ALSO lubed with 3en1 oil.

After that the problem was fixed for 8,000KM before it returned once again.

After calling Mazda Canada, they confirmed that there was a bulletin regarding the EGR's on Proteges on and around the 2002 year, and when I called my dealer, he researched it and confirmed this. He did not call the bulletin a "recall", but a "Customer Satisfaction" something-or-other. In any case, the warranty period under this bulletin announced that for EGR's in the covered years, the warranty has been extended to 2008.

This may not be the 100% exact nature of things, but only what I understand. Regardless, this was the result: Mine was replaced for free.

Lance

[90210brandon]

At 72,650KM encountered rough idle that period under this bulletin announced that for EGR's in the covered years, the warranty has been extended to 2008.

This may not be the 100% exact nature of things, but only what I understand. Regardless, this was the result: Mine was replaced for free.

LanceGood to know. Thanks Lance!

[hopeful]

when my valve wouldn't move, i think i left mine to soak in diesel for 3-4 days. after which i still had to play with it like crazy and use more SuperClean.

....






and then a couple months later it got stuck again, i cleaned it again and it seems fine now.

[steplat]

Thanks for the How To. I somehow got to 90K before the car started to stall out on me. I decided to just replace the EGR completely. ~$125 and an hour of work. It's like getting a new car.

[SoonP5ismine]

Thanks for the How To. I somehow got to 90K before the car started to stall out on me. I decided to just replace the EGR completely. ~$125 and an hour of work. It's like getting a new car.
thats what i did after following the directions here only fixed mine for 1000 miles then it crapped out again. so i replaced it myself.

[Pmpkinhead]

The EGR valves are starting to get REPLACED more often on the boards. Can someone post the P/N's for the:

MSP EGR
P5 EGR (if diff # than MSP)
MSP IAC (if this get replaced also)
P5 IAC (if diff # than MSP).

367 (mp3yellow

[SoonP5ismine]

the part # for the new redesigned egr valve for any protege model is: FSY1-20-300-9U
to be honest you should replace the gasket also but mine was in good sahpe when i took it off so its your choice. gasket was cheap anyway. look at reply #263 in this thread for pics and some other info.

[P-Funk!]

Yeah, that appears to be the concensus. I plan to swap mine if it starts to stumble again...

[spartan_mazda5]

Just a few questions:

1. How do you reset the PCM, as is mentioned in several posts.
2. Replacing the gasket is not often mentioned, but is mandated in the TSB located here: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123654270
3. I bought my car with about 65K miles, and now am approaching 116K with this problem. Are there other things to look at with so many miles?

Thanks

[steplat]

Just a few questions:

3. I bought my car with about 65K miles, and now am approaching 116K with this problem. Are there other things to look at with so many miles?

Thanks

I also did the sea foam treatment at the same time, it really smoothed out a lot of things.

[NCZ13]

my car died today at idle

yay =(

[00protegeracer]

is this the same for the 1.6 engine?

[RABID_MP5]

My EGR was (and is still) stuck open with carbon - awful idle etc. I just disconnected the exhaust tube at the union, a few inches from the header/manifold, inserted a dime and reassembled. Runs great now with the exhaust supply tube blocked. Any drawbacks to this simple method? It sure idles and runs great. Just my ten cents worth.

[SoonP5ismine]

the only thing i think may happen is worse than normal emisions.

[FL_PR5]

the only thing i can see as "fatal" is the dime somehow finding its way, or a piece of it, into the engine. just my .10 cents

[NCZ13]

youll get a CEL for insuffeciant EGR flow i bet.

[Caper705]

I just want to say that you people ROCK!!!!
A few months ago I brought my '01 Protege in to get checked out as it was idling rough and the check engine light came on. They gave me an estimate of over 600 bucks because they said the code is showing a bad o2 sensor. Well, I've been putting it off over the holidays and was going to bite the bullet when I found this site/post. I said, "what the heck" and gave it a try today (outside -5 degrees celcius).

I just put it all back together and it's purring like a kitten. Went for a test ride and it's working beautifully. I can't thank you enough. I must say too, when I had the valve apart and when I pressed on the spring it was sticking badly. So I knew that would be causing at least some of the problem.

Again, thank you from the bottom of my wallet.

[FL_PR5]

damn, 600 bucks for a simple 2 bolt bolt-on solution. youre welcome!

[SoonP5ismine]

damn, 600 bucks for a simple 2 bolt bolt-on solution. youre welcome!

i agree that 600 bucks is a bitt steep but its not exactly simple to replace it. you cant get a regular open end wrench in there to get a good grip on the bolts. its not as easy as it seems but its doable.

[Caper705]

The 600 was for a tune up as they couldn't exactly diagnose the problem, this also included a new factory O2 sensor as the code reader was telling them it needed to be replaced. They didn't even mention the possibility of the EGR valve. That would have probably been another 2 or 3 hundred. After doing this clean-up on the EGR it's all like new (the check engine light even went out).

[SoonP5ismine]

The 600 was for a tune up as they couldn't exactly diagnose the problem, this also included a new factory O2 sensor as the code reader was telling them it needed to be replaced. They didn't even mention the possibility of the EGR valve. That would have probably been another 2 or 3 hundred. After doing this clean-up on the EGR it's all like new (the check engine light even went out).
i hate to tell you but you probably will have the same prolem return in a month or 2. they have a new redesigned egr valve now that suposed to be better then the stock ones.

[FL_PR5]

ok, well i was taking everything off when i noticed a crack in the solenoid housing near the clip. that was the last step i had to do, was disconnect that clip, but the bastard wouldn't budge and then i noticed a crack on the top half near where they meet. so i skimmed through here reading about the recall and i figure i might as well just go and take mine in and let them replace it for free since mine is an 02 and the replacement has been extended to 08 i believe right? do i need a part number or what exactly? i would like to get it fixed before something happens and i throw a CEL. also, does it matter if my car is modified? i know stealerships try to pull shit with cars that have aftermarket stuff on, so any info would be great.

[FL_PR5]

bump? any info on getting the dealership to replace it?

[flipmode815]

so is it possible to take the egr tube out and just plug the holes with a bolt or something with no problems?

[hbk2k1]

So I have a 95 Protege, 1.8L DOHC LX and have basically followed the instructions on the first page of this thread to get my EGR out and clean it(problem is rough idle and after driving for a awhile and starting and stopping, the RPM would hover around 200-500rpm). I got as far as to get to the darn thing...mind you it was very difficult to get out. Anyway, I got it out, removed the 4 phillips(stripped one of them), and it looked NOTHING like the picture in the first page...so I wasn't sure how the heck I was supposed to clean the inside of it. There was 1 allen key holding the piece together...and I couldn't get it open...looked to be a 3.5 and all I had were sizes 3 and 4. So I sprayed the opening(I could see the spring inside this opening) with some WD40. I put it back together and not sure what else to do...Thoughts?

Here are a few pictures taken today...

[SoonP5ismine]

so is it possible to take the egr tube out and just plug the holes with a bolt or something with no problems?
It will work but you will get a cel for insufficient flow.

[SoonP5ismine]

So I have a 95 Protege, 1.8L DOHC LX and have basically followed the instructions on the first page of this thread to get my EGR out and clean it(problem is rough idle and after driving for a awhile and starting and stopping, the RPM would hover around 200-500rpm). I got as far as to get to the darn thing...mind you it was very difficult to get out. Anyway, I got it out, removed the 4 phillips(stripped one of them), and it looked NOTHING like the picture in the first page...so I wasn't sure how the heck I was supposed to clean the inside of it. There was 1 allen key holding the piece together...and I couldn't get it open...looked to be a 3.5 and all I had were sizes 3 and 4. So I sprayed the opening(I could see the spring inside this opening) with some WD40. I put it back together and not sure what else to do...Thoughts?

Here are a few pictures taken today...
this how to is for a 3rd gen pro so the egr is different looking. what you should do is to make sure you can move the piston freely in the valve and work it in for a while and see if it will last you longer then my did when i cleaned it.

[hbk2k1]

I'm relatively new to the EGR discussion......I'm not sure how to move the piston ?

Also, the unit looks different and I'm clueless as to how to go about cleaning the EGR.

[SoonP5ismine]

I'm relatively new to the EGR discussion......I'm not sure how to move the piston ?

Also, the unit looks different and I'm clueless as to how to go about cleaning the EGR.
you will need to take the the servo off (the part with the plug) to get to the piston and move it. i had to do that on mine.

[slave600]

well, these mazda computers ain't SKYNET for sure!!! i'm wondering how long the computer takes to adjust now that i have cleaned the EGR and re-installed it. the first few miles i expected a little lower idle, but the idle is around 500 rpm's now. before i cleaned the egr it was usually around 700 w/ a little drop that i felt would stall the car if i didn't rev it quickly after noticing the drop.

[SoonP5ismine]

well, these mazda computers ain't SKYNET for sure!!! i'm wondering how long the computer takes to adjust now that i have cleaned the EGR and re-installed it. the first few miles i expected a little lower idle, but the idle is around 500 rpm's now. before i cleaned the egr it was usually around 700 w/ a little drop that i felt would stall the car if i didn't rev it quickly after noticing the drop.
if u did the work with battery unplugged and then trained the ecu bu trying to start the car it should have cleared and will be back to normal as soon as you reconnect everything.

[hbk2k1]

you will need to take the the servo off (the part with the plug) to get to the piston and move it. i had to do that on mine.

so does that mean I have to remove the allen key? I can't see any other way of getting the unit apart?

Also, is the unit spring loaded? The last thing I want is to have to open the part and then have parts fly out all over the place and have pieces missing etc...This is a HUGE concern for me.

[downtube]

So I have a 95 Protege, 1.8L DOHC LX and have basically followed the instructions on the first page of this thread to get my EGR out and clean it(problem is rough idle and after driving for a awhile and starting and stopping, the RPM would hover around 200-500rpm). I got as far as to get to the darn thing...mind you it was very difficult to get out. Anyway, I got it out, removed the 4 phillips(stripped one of them), and it looked NOTHING like the picture in the first page...so I wasn't sure how the heck I was supposed to clean the inside of it. There was 1 allen key holding the piece together...and I couldn't get it open...looked to be a 3.5 and all I had were sizes 3 and 4. So I sprayed the opening(I could see the spring inside this opening) with some WD40. I put it back together and not sure what else to do...Thoughts?

Here are a few pictures taken today...

Am I crazy here, or are these pics of an IAC valve instead of an EGR? if I'm crazy, okay, not a problem. but if it's IAC somebody needs to tell the guy....

[downtube]

that was impressive.... posted that reply and IE went boom

[slave600]

really dirty EGR!!! http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e328/slave600/DSC00698.jpg
man just 5 minutes worth of brakeleen really cleaned it up. http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e328/slave600/DSC00700.jpg
but not taking any chances i used some methanol, then a little pest. grade acetone. then i cleaned the IAC and used some methanol on it, too. makes a difference.

[red95_240sx]

???Did u take it apart and get inside there? or you poured it in?

Do any of you notice a a foul smell of like gas or something related to the stalling?

[slave600]

i did take it apart, but took pics b4 that after only a few passes of the brakleen to show results. the methanol i used did the best overall, but u folks prolly can't get the good stuff.... i work in a lab though!!

[hbk2k1]

ok......so its possible I may have removed the wrong part.....i feel really stupid about it.......any idea where the EGR is on my car.....?

[red95_240sx]

behind the throttle body. its gonna look like that^

[slave600]

look at the first page pics. all u should be able to see is the black plug on the end of the unit. the holes u can see in my pic attach directly under the TB (open the butterfly and u can see the holes that the gases pass thru). this is all assuming u have the 2.0.

[hbk2k1]

I have a 1.8L...

here's what my engine looks like.....the only piece i could find that looked like the ones in the start of this thread was the piece in the pics from my previous post...

the car again is: 95 protege, 1.8L LX, DOHC...

Thanks

[808MP5]

It really doesn't bother me that much. I bag the absolute piss out of my car, so I don't expect it to run 100% anyways. Besides, it's only for the 2-3 mins after I fill up with gas then it goes away.

Hey Maxx,

You ever figure out what the problem was? I got this same problem and i'm unable to figure it out.... If you did figure it out, How did you correct it?

Thanks in advance

[red95_240sx]

hbk2k1 u probly wont have one. Its directly behind the TB maybe u guys need this(attached pictures). im pointing behind the throttle body, by the ughhh intake manifold and the firewall. thats the top of it my fingers pointing.

Im still wondering if anyone has a smell related to the choking.

[rmak_14]

hey my car has been idling around 500 but lately we got hit will severely cold weather and the rpms would drop and almost stall then back up again. it would do this twice before settling at 500 again. this is during normal driving like when im waiting to turn left it would do this, at a stop light..does this mean my egr pipe is in need of cleaning? recent mod installed was the CustomMSP SMIC..help!!

[808MP5]

I'll take some photos tomorrow morning, if still needed. You going to need a special torx wrench to take the valve out. Clean the plunger and the housing.

check out the pics. In my case, when i removed the solenoid valve, the plunger got stock to the throttle body. There was carbon build up.

Hmm... I can't seem to find the "special torx wrench" to take off the IAC valve... I have a torx bit set but the torx screw on the valve has a little nipple in the middle...

Anyone know where i can find the "special torx wrench" I checked sears and they don't have it.

Help...

BTW the original post for this quote is #97... It has the pictures also. I am still waiting on some time to do the EGR clean. But i figure this would be easier since its right in your face.

[Pmpkinhead]

Sears does have it, thats where I got em'. I don't know the size, but the set will have the correct size.


367 (mp3yellow

[NCZ13]

i got set of bits at sears...

they are made by craftsman...

^the bit size is t25

[garym0510]

Hey Im new to the site and am buying msp monday when you hit the clutch at like three four thousand rpm to just roll to a stop sign or what ever the car stalls is this just because of the turbo and to high of rpms or could it be the egr valve. the car has eighty thousand miles and im sure its never been cleaned. and how do you reset the pcm? Anyone who can help or has info let me know

[SoonP5ismine]

Hey Im new to the site and am buying msp monday when you hit the clutch at like three four thousand rpm to just roll to a stop sign or what ever the car stalls is this just because of the turbo and to high of rpms or could it be the egr valve. the car has eighty thousand miles and im sure its never been cleaned. and how do you reset the pcm? Anyone who can help or has info let me know
if its the egr then your rpms will go crazy at idle and your engine will be close to stalling. i don't know what you mean by pcm but to reset the computer in the car u unhook the battery and put the lights on to drain any power remaining in the system and then connect everything back up.

[Dimitrios]

I just replaced my EGR today (had cleaned it several times before); idles like new (well, mods aside....).

I personally think that cleaning the EGR is fundamentally a waste of time. IMO, it's much better to get a new/better designed one than to continue otherwise.

We'll see how long this one lasts though (aftermarket from Autozone - Mitsubishi solenoid, all made in Japan).

[SoonP5ismine]

I just replaced my EGR today (had cleaned it several times before); idles like new (well, mods aside....).

I personally think that cleaning the EGR is fundamentally a waste of time. IMO, it's much better to get a new/better designed one than to continue otherwise.

We'll see how long this one lasts though (aftermarket from Autozone - Mitsubishi solenoid, all made in Japan).

i agree. after i cleaned mine one time and seen the problem return after 1000 miles i bought a new redesigned one and no problems for about 30000 miles so far.

[TXMazdaSpeeder]

btw that torx bit is called a tamper proof torx

[Not Jo3L]

i agree. after i cleaned mine one time and seen the problem return after 1000 miles i bought a new redesigned one and no problems for about 30000 miles so far.
What kind of egr did you buy then?

[SoonP5ismine]

What kind of egr did you buy then?

look here (http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2643171&postcount=263) for my earlier post. btw you dont have to get it from same place i did but at the time it was the cheapest i found. there are pics there too so u can see the difference.

[Not Jo3L]

Thanks..I think its time to clean my egr..but why waste time taking it off to clean it when the only true answer to the problem is to buy a new one.

[SoonP5ismine]

Thanks..I think its time to clean my egr..but why waste time taking it off to clean it when the only true answer to the problem is to buy a new one.
cleaning may help some cars but not mine. i now have 26000 miles on the new egr valve and no problems.

[whitey382]

hey guys, new to the forum, my woman has a 2005 Mazda 3 with the 2.3L engine. she has been having some eratic idle issues and I was just wondering if the 3 has the same egr valve the protege had? any help would be great, thanks

[damaster]

Can someone please tell me where the IAC is on a 1.6L automatic? I cleaned my wife's 1.6L's EGR and everything is much improved but the car still idles a bit rough. I wanted to clean the IAC if only I knew what it looked like...

[NCZ13]

it should be right above the throttle body...

[Protege2886]

I should do this before the car comes out of storage (i.e gets unburried)

[Cellerator]

Question: If I can't get those 4 phillips screws out, is it safe to stick part of the EGR valve in a cup of carbon removing stuff?

I mean can i stick the whole boxed in part in a cup of that stuff and leave the top plastic parts out of the solution?

[shane02pro5]

It gets pretty caked in there and actually needs to be scrubbed a bit to help loosen it. Best to put it in a vice or something for more leverage and try finding a phillips with the little tiny grooves on the tip to give you some more bite in the screw.

[Cellerator]

Also, what did you guys use to soak it in? I had a Styrofoam bowl and the stuff I'm using ate right through it, then I used a plastic cup and same result...

[red95_240sx]

wth u using?

[Cellerator]

B-12 Chemtool...

[SoonP5ismine]

use a metal cofee can or something glass. i used wd40 (the liguid kind) not the spray and i soaked it ovenight. i broke one of the screw heads so if its so hard to take out then you might as well break it and go to homedepot and get new screews. i had to.

[nkymsp]

ok so i have been having the idle/die at stop light problems like the first post says... i took the egr off and cleaned it with brake cleaner and a dremel with a small brush on the end... reinstalled it all and im still having the same problem... wat else should i try?

[Cellerator]

Did you reset the computer? If not, try that.
Other solution is if it is throwing a CEL, go to autozone and see if you got a misfire code, it could be a spark plug wire.

[SoonP5ismine]

does the piston in the valve move freely when you push it with your fingers? did you reconnect the power plug to it when u put it back on the engine?

[Cellerator]

Cleaned my EGR today and wahoo, no more CEL!

[JimP02]

Cleaned my EGR today and wahoo, no more CEL!

To get to the EGR did you have to remove the intake manifold gasket? Was just wondering, as just had my EGR valve replaced (apparently factory recall on the EGR 2002 P5)

The stealership touched me up for 290.00 dollars to replace intake manifold gasket!

Jim

[joneb4evr]

woah, i didn't know it was a recall. nothing comes up on my car. its easier to get to the egr by removing the intake. they didn't want to have to work too hard, and get paid well for it. :) i wouldn't have paid a dime if it was a recall. all the work they did should have been covered.

[Cellerator]

To get to the EGR did you have to remove the intake manifold gasket? Was just wondering, as just had my EGR valve replaced (apparently factory recall on the EGR 2002 P5)

The stealership touched me up for 290.00 dollars to replace intake manifold gasket!

Jim

LOL, if it's the gasket in between the EGR and IM, then yes but it's nothing special, made of some metal and fit right back on. It takes maybe 20 minutes to pull the whole EGR valve and put it back on. If it's elsewhere, I don't see why you'd have to do all that just to get to it. You take off the intake pipe and get a socket wrench underneath the throttle body to undo the bolts for the EGR.

[JimP02]

LOL, if it's the gasket in between the EGR and IM, then yes but it's nothing special, made of some metal and fit right back on. It takes maybe 20 minutes to pull the whole EGR valve and put it back on. If it's elsewhere, I don't see why you'd have to do all that just to get to it. You take off the intake pipe and get a socket wrench underneath the throttle body to undo the bolts for the EGR.

That's what I thought, but I wanted some confirmation, Make matters worse they forgot to tighten the bolts for the EGR.........I am not a happy camper!

[Pmpkinhead]

Post your location, I'll make sure I NEVER go to that State for (incompetent) car repair. HOLY F&CK

Be sure to print this last page or two and give it to the service manager!!!:o


367 (mp3yellow

[MP5_Joe]

Just cleaned my egr, great writeup. Those bolts under the egr where a PITA to get out, but i found an easy way if you don't have wrenches (which I did.... they were just way to big). Put your car in gear (with a standard) and push the car forward and back a few times, and then one big push and pull up the e-brake (before it rolls back). That way the engine is rocked forward a little, giving you that extra room to get a small socket wrench on there.

[ghettoracingkid]

ok i read alot of this thread.

anyone see improved gas mileage?

[i12drivemyMP5]

You always get better gas mileage when important emissions control parts are not gak'd full of carbon. You're not gonna experience any awe inspiring miracle differences tho.

[Pmpkinhead]

I just did it again and my tanks have been giving me 23 to 26 MPG (averaging around 24). Still horrible as usual.

367 (mp3yellow

[Keop0007]

subscribe

[Not Jo3L]

Could you spray Seafoam Deep Creep in the IAC and EGR..or would it be better to buy seafoam in the can and let them soak in it?

[808MP5]

...Put your car in gear (with a standard) and push the car forward and back a few times, and then one big push and pull up the e-brake (before it rolls back). That way the engine is rocked forward a little, giving you that extra room to get a small socket wrench on there....

Great catch... But it won't work for everyone especially if you have upgraded motor mounts... My sh!t doesn't rock for nothing. Besided if your motor is rocking that much i think its a good sign of worn mounts

[RABID_MP5]

When you get a 401 cel code for insufficient EGR flow, how is the ECU figuring this out? I expected some of the connectors to the valve to have a variable resistance, kinda like a throttle position sensor, which confirms that the pintle valve is positioned as requested by the ECU, via the EGR valve motor. But per the manual and inspection, you get a constant 24 ohms or so on all connector combinations, REGARDLESS of where you pull or push the motor's output plunger (you have to remove the 4 screws to do this). It's not detecting the wrong EGR flow from expected O2 sensor readings or manifold vacuum, is it? My valve slides like butter, but I'm still getting the code within 100 miles after each reset. (The exhaust is shut off at the manifold, so my rigging is tantamount to taking a good working installation and inserting a block-off plate between the valve and the manifold; they don't smog test at my locale)

[Not Jo3L]

Whats the easiest way to get this stupid EGR off? I am having way to much of a problem getting in that small space.

Got one bolt off..the second one I cant get to because of the stupid rear motor mount I believe thats what it is..well its blocking my wrench from even fitting in the space to get to the bolt.

[SIBalla23]

Did you take off the intake piping from the throttle body to maf? Take it off and you should have some more room. Also I was able to just use a 1/4" ratchet and either 10 or 12mm socket, forgot socket size, and it came off with no problem. Just got to lean half your body into engine bay lol.

[red95_240sx]

i use a wrench, dont no what else i did, but i can get it

[Not Jo3L]

I took off the intake tubing..got one off and am getting the 2nd one by the motor mount by sticking my arms through all these wires and stuff. The bolt doesnt seem to get any looser..its like im stripping the bolt but not really because I took a look at it with a mirror and it doesnt even look banged up.

[dannyboy17]

I like to have room when I work on the car, that means taking out the strut bar out, battery, intake manifold pipe, etc. Once you do all these simple stuff it will make your life easier to remove the EGR bolts.

[spotthedogg]

I did this with zero improvement, I know when my header was installed they welded the EGR fitting on because of damaged threads or something. I wonder if this is where I'm getting restriction?

[Not Jo3L]

I still havent gotten my EGR off. I am out of ideas just short of taking off the whole intake manifold..but thats not gonna be happening anytime soon..

[alfveba]

yea good write up it makes alot of difference i had a little over 50k on mine when i got it and the guy just said it had an idling problem when warming up it would drop all the way down to 100 and the computer would kick it up to 1500 before it would stall but it still was getting 29 going 80 on the highway so if its gets even better now that would be great

[JesterCinti]

Good write up, but I had to get a new one. 2002 144,000 miles Protege LX. I started noticing the problem at 20,000 miles, but ignored it. Then it got bad and threw CEL EGR codes. Tried to clean, but it was so rusted and crusted, that it was time for a new one. Believe it or not, this is the only problem I have had with this car...

[spotthedogg]

So here's some interesting news; I asked my Mazda mechanic about the EGR and stumbling idle. He says there is a new updated EGR valve and a TSB. The new valve has coolant running through it or something, anyway supposed to be done for me this week no charge.

[JesterCinti]

That's great that you had that done for no charge. I just spend $160 to get an updated one from AutoZone. It has a tougher sheetmetal housing, but no coolant hookup. Hmmmm....Should have asked the dealership about this one. My EGR faield completely at 144,000 miles. I guess I'll just wait until it dies again. Thanks for the head-s up spotthedogg.

[spotthedogg]

Well actually they now say yes there is a bulletin but I do have to pay for it. Crap. The EGR is $150 and $60 to install, so now I'd like to know if anyone else has this updated part, is it worth $250+taxes?

[libtech]

1) I am having similar issues. Im guessing EGR valve could be on of a few possible solutions. The car (2002 Protege 5) has 96,0000 KM on it. This started roughly 4 weeks ago, every once and while I would drive the car and it would, during idle (stop lights or parked), run really rough and go low low idle, like almost stalling. If I gave it a quick rev to say 3500, the problem would go away and not come back until a few days later. Then it progressed to happening everytime I drove the car, but again if I reved it quick, the problem would go away and not come back till I drove the car next.

Then this weekend it started again and if I reved it, it didnt go away, took about 4-5 revs and then it finally disappeared.

Im going to check plugs and wires tonight, and if I have time take off the EGR valve and do a cleaning on it.

Does this sound like it could be the problem, or more likeley A coil issue?



2) This How To, says to reset the computer? How do I do that and can I without messing anything up?

3) I spoke with a Mazda dealership today and they said If I take off the EGR valve myself I void the 7 year warranty and cant get the replacement, he said you shouldnt mess with it... BS? They said they will diagnose for $105, and they can tell me the problem. If its the EGR valve its all covered under the 7 year warranty and they will throw in the new EGR free of charge. If its not, at least Ill know what the problem is and I can try fix it myself if its the Coils etc...

Then I spoke to another dealership and they said it shouldnt void the warranty.

They also said that if its the EGR valve you should be getting a CEL? I havnt had one yet at all...

What do you guys think?





Thanks!

[Pmpkinhead]

1) I am having similar issues. Im guessing EGR valve could be on of a few possible solutions. The car (2002 Protege 5) has 96,0000 KM on it. This started roughly 4 weeks ago, every once and while I would drive the car and it would, during idle (stop lights or parked), run really rough and go low low idle, like almost stalling. If I gave it a quick rev to say 3500, the problem would go away and not come back until a few days later. Then it progressed to happening everytime I drove the car, but again if I reved it quick, the problem would go away and not come back till I drove the car next.

Then this weekend it started again and if I reved it, it didnt go away, took about 4-5 revs and then it finally disappeared.

Im going to check plugs and wires tonight, and if I have time take off the EGR valve and do a cleaning on it.

Does this sound like it could be the problem, or more likeley A coil issue?



2) This How To, says to reset the computer? How do I do that and can I without messing anything up?

3) I spoke with a Mazda dealership today and they said If I take off the EGR valve myself I void the 7 year warranty and cant get the replacement, he said you shouldnt mess with it... BS? They said they will diagnose for $105, and they can tell me the problem. If its the EGR valve its all covered under the 7 year warranty and they will throw in the new EGR free of charge. If its not, at least Ill know what the problem is and I can try fix it myself if its the Coils etc...

Then I spoke to another dealership and they said it shouldnt void the warranty.

They also said that if its the EGR valve you should be getting a CEL? I havnt had one yet at all...

What do you guys think?





Thanks!

Where are you and where are dealers THAT BAD? Please update your info so we can help you.

[libtech]

I'm in Edmonton Canada. I had my buddy at GM scan the car with their scanner and it wouldn't connect, then on the way home I got a CEL, so I guess ill just go to the Mazda dealership tomorrow and go from there.

[MS3_KIDD]

i have a CEL and according to advanced autopart's scanner, my intake mani runner is stuck closed

is this the same thing that this how to is about?

[shane02pro5]

Do you know the actual code number? Mani runner I would assume is the VICS butterflies... nothing to do with the EGR.

[MS3_KIDD]

no, i forgot to write the code down cuz i was too busy wondering what a mani runner is lol


Do you know the actual code number? Mani runner I would assume is the VICS butterflies... nothing to do with the EGR.

[libtech]

So, it ended up being the EGR as I thought. They replaced it, reset the CEL and away I go, free of charge! Even gave me a complimentry wash, when I picked up the car I had to look twice, as I was suprised it had been washed haha. Hopefully that was indeed the problem, the issue didnt arise on the way back to work, so time will tell.

At least I got a free EGR upgraded valve out of the deal. They said the EGR valve was sticking.

[DooMer_MP3]

Is there really a 7-year warranty on this piece? I bought my MP3 on July 25th, 2001 it has 91,000 miles. I had it into the dealer yesterday and after a oil change and coolant flush, mentioned the eratic idle/stalling. They charged something like $100 for a diagnostic (check code, pull intake, test egr). Then they wanted an additional $320 in parts and labor to replace it. I'm wondering if I can get this under warranty. I need some more detailed information. TSB? Anything?

[02Protege'5]

just a little addition to the tutorial.

It is impossible to get to this thing on the 2.0 N/A engin from the top. I got one bolt out, after removing my intake, battery and strut tower bar. one of the bolts is very close to a motor mount, i used a ratchet wrench on it, there was no room for a socket wrench.

I wound up jacking the car up and getting it done from the bottom!

[SoonP5ismine]

Is there really a 7-year warranty on this piece? I bought my MP3 on July 25th, 2001 it has 91,000 miles. I had it into the dealer yesterday and after a oil change and coolant flush, mentioned the eratic idle/stalling. They charged something like $100 for a diagnostic (check code, pull intake, test egr). Then they wanted an additional $320 in parts and labor to replace it. I'm wondering if I can get this under warranty. I need some more detailed information. TSB? Anything?
i really think you only have 5 year/50000 mile warranty on anything in the proteges. i could be wrong but thats what mine had. maybe its different for other parts of the world.

[evilmonkeyMSP]

proteges typically only had 4year/48000 warranties I believe

[SIBalla23]

It was very easy for me to get it from the top. Just removed strut bar and intake pipe. Used 1/4" ratchet with 12mm socket. Have done it with ease many times. And I live in the northeast where more road salt is used and bolts tend to rust.

[SoonP5ismine]

just a little addition to the tutorial.

It is impossible to get to this thing on the 2.0 N/A engin from the top. I got one bolt out, after removing my intake, battery and strut tower bar. one of the bolts is very close to a motor mount, i used a ratchet wrench on it, there was no room for a socket wrench.

I wound up jacking the car up and getting it done from the bottom!
i didnt have to jack up the car. my car is stock and all i did was removed ait intake hose, battery and strut bar. it was a pain in the ass to work on but i got it out without going under.

[red95_240sx]

u guys still babling about this...

Ion no my CEL for the egr has been going on and off recently, but my idle hasnt droppped in forever. rough idle can be caused by other things too. i think i had a vac. leak , or it was my MAF that is now replaced with a celica MAF.

[Not Jo3L]

just a little addition to the tutorial.

It is impossible to get to this thing on the 2.0 N/A engin from the top. I got one bolt out, after removing my intake, battery and strut tower bar. one of the bolts is very close to a motor mount, i used a ratchet wrench on it, there was no room for a socket wrench.

I wound up jacking the car up and getting it done from the bottom!


This is exactly what happened on my 1.8 FP. I currently have one bolt off and the one above the motor mount is there. My tiny hands could get in there and get the flex wratchet on...but it was not a good enough angle to crack the bolt and get it off.

So jacking the car up is easier eh?

[red95_240sx]

or remove ur battery

[Not Jo3L]

yeah i removed everything out of the way..but still couldnt get the last bolt off, so I just left it on there so I can attempt it somtime this summer.

[02Protege'5]

i really have no idea how anyone could get at those bolt from the top. I removed the battery, intake and strut bar like you guys, but it was NOT happening. It was do-able from under the car, but you guys said you were able to get a socket wrench on both bolts? its close, the one bolt, maybe if my wrench was a little slimmer, gotta get that boy some slim fast perhaps!

[Not Jo3L]

i really have no idea how anyone could get at those bolt from the top. I removed the battery, intake and strut bar like you guys, but it was NOT happening. It was do-able from under the car, but you guys said you were able to get a socket wrench on both bolts? its close, the one bolt, maybe if my wrench was a little slimmer, gotta get that boy some slim fast perhaps!

Yeah I got my flex wrench in there..but there is no room to get a good angle to crack the bolt. Theres seriously like an inch of room to work with in there.

[red95_240sx]

well this how i did it.

Look at the ize of my wrist. im kinda skinny(working on it). dont let the veins fool you.
http://www.msprotege.com/members/red99pro/PIC-0470.jpg


Go in between the vacuume? brake line and the other two vac. lines

http://www.msprotege.com/members/red99pro/PIC-0472.jpg

With ur four fingers, use then and PULL.

http://www.msprotege.com/members/red99pro/PIC-0474.jpg

[Not Jo3L]

ahh i went underneath..stuck my arm all the way under the IM and the EGR. Got ahold of the bolt..but could not turn it at all.

Are you sure the 1.6 is the same as the other engines. The bolts on mine were parallel to the ground.

[red95_240sx]

power up on it.(flame) u cud probly pull towards the driver side fender better than pushing it.

[02Protege'5]

Yeah, your arms are twigs, my forearm is 14" circumference, and i've got gorilla hands. Too much ah....... working out, yeah thats it!

[ShortOnZeros]

Is there really a 7-year warranty on this piece? I bought my MP3 on July 25th, 2001 it has 91,000 miles. I had it into the dealer yesterday and after a oil change and coolant flush, mentioned the eratic idle/stalling. They charged something like $100 for a diagnostic (check code, pull intake, test egr). Then they wanted an additional $320 in parts and labor to replace it. I'm wondering if I can get this under warranty. I need some more detailed information. TSB? Anything?


There is a 7 year warranty. Unfortunately I missed it by 6 weeks, now it's going to cost me $250 to change it.
The new EGR valve is now liquid cooled. It's got hoses coming out of it for liquid cooling and breather hoses. I cleaned my old EGR myself a year and a half ago, but I'm paying the dealer to install this one, it looks complicated.

[red95_240sx]

Yeah, your arms are twigs, my forearm is 14" circumference, and i've got gorilla hands. Too much ah....... working out, yeah thats it!

twiigs???(fight)

[DooMer_MP3]

Well, I did this procedure over the weekend and my car runs beautifully again. I actually didn't have too much trouble getting the thing out. I removed the battery and strut bar and had plenty of room to work with. The screws sat in PB blast for a half hour and I had to use pliers to get them off. The spring was totally stuck so I spent an hour or so with carb cleaner and a dremel with wire brush attachment. Scrubbed as much buildup off as I could and the spring was moving freely without sticking. Oiled it up a bit and put everything back together. Idles like new!

[thevi3t1]

so far i got the EGR valve out, cleaned it and just put it back in, but when i was about to take it out it started pouring than it stopped, now when i just put it back in ready to tighten it, it poured again, grr feels like this isnt ever gonna end... >.< i'll give u guyz the update when i'm done! and btw thx vegas for this thread :D!

[imola.zhp]

Uh-Oh...

Well, the spring is soaking right now, but...

http://www.msprotege.com/members/122%20Vega/DSC00159.JPG

I thought you were suppose to take apart the piece on the right. Which I did, it looks fancy in there, I hope I didn't f it up...

Should I be worried?

eek!

[red95_240sx]

i never tooked the right part aloose

[imola.zhp]

^ yeah, I put everything back together and the idle is WORSE! I was in a hurry though (had somewhere to be) so I probably didn't clean it well enough...

Now that I've done it once, when I do it again (tomorrow) it should go quicker...

Hopefully the worse idle hasn't been caused by me taking that apart... eek!

[imola.zhp]

Re-cleaned the EGR today, let it sit with cleaner in it for 3 30 minute periods...

Backed out of the driveway, idle'ing perfect, when to the stop sign about a block away and she almost died...

hrm

Took her for a drive, still wanting to die or almost die and when she would the belt(s) would squeel as I gave her gas...

Came back, left her running, put some belt dressing on and she idled perfect in the driveway...

Took her for another ride and she never tried to die at all! She still idled a little rough at stop lights, but MUCH better. Came back though and slowed down to get into the driveway (it kinda sucks) and the belts squeeled again...

I think its time for some new belts...

Thanks for this great (old) thread, seems to have worked after the 2nd try. Not sure why it still acted funny during the 1st test drive, maybe the ECU was still "learning" I had the battery unplugged the whole time the EGR was being cleaned...

Car has some other "issues" as well, so I'm thinking as those are fixed the rough idle will go away completely...

[red95_240sx]

its not always the EGR valve. im sure the same is for many others in here.

[Not Jo3L]

I tried to get at this EGR valve again and have had no luck..I think I will go from underneath now.

[red95_240sx]

(hand)

[Not Jo3L]

Yeah no worries I will get it on Thursday with my friends help

[thevi3t1]

i took out my EGR last weekend and i noticed when i pushed on the spring which makes the valve or whatever it's called open up, and after i release the spring the valve doesnt close? is that suppose to happen? i'm sure it's not suppose too but i was wondering if it is or not ty

[red95_240sx]

yeah urs is epicly failing

[Not Jo3L]

anybody with the 1.8 FP get their EGR off..I am having the most trouble with this stupid bolt.

[thevi3t1]

yeah urs is epicly failing

ah ok ty :)!

[thevi3t1]

haha, all fixed now, the spring for valve kept getting stuck, so i kept on pushing up and down til it was loose enough to go up and down on it's own. The car is good now, runs like new, idle is nice and good heh!! thx vegas alot for the tread man hehe!! remember to check if the valve can go back to normal position after putting pressure on it.

[wpaul]

Hi everyone,

I have a Canadian Mazda Protege SE (1.6 L) which I gather is not available in the US (making parts a little harder to search on the internet).

My idle was very rough, and I had the EGR and IAC valves cleaned out by my technician which helped. After 600km or so, the rough idle is back. I gather by the success of others' in this forum that it would be a good idea to install a new EGR. I'm out of money and patience to pay for labour, so I've decided to replace it myself.

Does anyone know if the 1.6L engine uses the same EGR valve as the 2.0L? The part numbers I've found for the EGR valve and gasket are as follows:

Valve, EGR
1.6L Eng BP4W-20-300A
1.8L, 2.0L Eng FSY1-20-300

Gasket, EGR Valve JE27-20-305A (for both engines, I assume)

These are from a parts guide I found somewhere on the internet. I forget where, so I have poted the file here if anyone is interested : http://physics.queensu.ca/~wpaul/mazda%20protege%20parts%20guide.pdf

The part numbers of the 1.6 and 1.8/2.0 engine are verrry similar ... ? But perhaps not the same? At least, the price of the 1.6 EGR is close to $260, whereas the price of the 2.0 EGR is $130...

If anyone has done this successfully with a 1.6L engine, could you let me know where you bought the part? Thanks!!

Will

[wpaul]

I'll update for the sake of doing so. I called up Mazda Gabriel and Mazda Spinelli in Montreal, who wanted $285 for the EGR valve for my 2003 Protege 1.6L. NAPA in Montreal wanted $271. I spend a lot of time in Kingston, ON, where I've been going to school this year, where NAPA quoted $244, and Kingston Mazda quoted $141.63. So, I bought it from Kingston Mazda today and installed it. The model number of the replacement kit was ZMY1-18-W00, and included installation instructions and the gasket (which the other stores had as an extra $10). I will scan the installation instructions and post them shortly - they are actually written for the 2.0L engine, so things don't quite look the same, so I would advise taking a look at the workshop manual to figure out where everything is located.

This part includes 3 new hoses: coolant in & out, and a vacuum tube. The weird thing is that the instructions don't seem to mention connecting the vacuum tube to any source of vacuum. It seems to be just a sort of drainage tube which you are told to route to somewhere near the left fender, and point the tube opening downward (I suppose so that liquid can't get in). Anyone know what this 'vacuum tube' is?

Otherwise, the repair did not fix my idle. I was hopeful that this would, as I had the Throttle Body, EGR valve and IAC valve cleaned, which made the car run beautifully for ~600km (also got new spark plugs put in). I think the next step will be to discuss this with Kingston Mazda, and see if they have the IAC valve. They are quite helpful when it comes to encouraging customers to do their own repairs if they are not too difficult.

Another symptom of my problem is poor braking power when driving at low speeds, say around 15 km/h. If my engine is working smoothly at a non-idling speed, the brake power is good, but if I am idling up to a red light very slowly, I can depress the brake pedal, and the car will stop very slowly. My hypothesis here is that the vacuum is not good while the idling is rough, but is good when the engine is running faster.

Actually, this is the reason for which I originally brought my car into the garage was for poor braking power (I'd been told by a different mechanic that the idling was nothing to worry about). So I have also had to pay for a brake booster, and master cylinder because Canadian Tire thought it was necessary (one of the few places open on a Sunday morning). So, I'm running out of money and patience. Hopefully I can pick up an IAC and I'll let you know how that goes.

Will

[red95_240sx]

becuase a bad idle can also be vacum related. half of the people in r are probly not having bad idle because of EGR.

[ianfromma]

took my egr off today...was a little tougher than i thought it would be...those bolts are kind of a bitch to get at when you can't see them! also, wtf were they thinking with the aluminum phillips screws??? they stripped instantly even with the best matched driver and lots of pressure. vice grips solved that problem real quick haha

sprayed a shitload of brake-kleen and let it sit then dumped it out and let it dry. the valve would stick open and i'd have to pull it out so i dumped some engine oil on it and worked the valve moved freely. Put it back together (which was much easier!) and reset the pcm and now it runs like a champ! so much less jerky in the shifts and the idle sits RIGHT at 750 with NO movement.

Thanks for the how-to! probably the first thing i've done in an engine bay that didn't go horribly wrong lol

[wpaul]

I talked to someone at Kingston Mazda today. He suggested as well that it was probably vacuum. My question now is this: If it is vacuum related, why did the car run great for 700km after cleaning the Throttle Body, IAC, EGR, and then resume the bad idle with the exact same symptoms? Did the vacuum get worse with time when things got cleaned? And the cleaned things helped it run great for a bit??

[imola.zhp]

^ maybe something popped off, or maybe one of the rubber vacuum hoses developed a tear/leak after so many miles of rubbing against another part...

Good luck!

Mine is still slightly rough after cleaning the EGR and doing other fixes, I'm hoping after I seafoam and replace the plugs/wires it'll be cleared up. Its rough enough at times to make me think its missing (possible plug/plug wire or other firing issue)...

[wpaul]

So Kingston Mazda took a look. They think the vacuum is fine, but think that the MAP sensor is sending an incorrect reading. They quoted $121 for part + installation. Part comes in Monday. Fingers crossed... but I'm jaded and don't expect much at this rate!

[red95_240sx]

what size engine?

edit: i see from above. i have a used one for you for $30. was working when i took it off, and has been sitting on my dresser for a while. if it doesnt work for you, ill give u ur money back.

edit:I also see you bought it already(hand) it very well may fix ur problem.

[wpaul]

Hey - thanks for the offer tho. I appreciate it. At this point I really just want it to be fixed ASAP!!! :)

Since Mazda can do it on Monday morning, I will just go ahead and see what happens...

btw. I called up Napa in Kingston just for the hell of finding out how much they would charge for the MAP sensor. The guy on the phone said "just a sec... whoa!... $308!" So I said "Uh, ok thanks" and hung up !

[wpaul]

Well, after a bunch of searching, new MAP, injector flush, Kingston Mazda discovered that Canadian Tire had placed my new timing belt one cog off on my camshafts...

I told them to repair it, as I didn't want to trust Canadian Tire with my car again. I will go to yell at Canadian Tire tomorrow. Sounds like it could have been an honest mistake (apparently no codes were registering with this small timing error), or perhaps not!!

[blueamcat]

Just registered, and my first post here...

I've read through a lot of the pages in this here thread, and after much enlightenment, I'm going to try this myself. Like most of you, I have a 2001 Protege ES with some issues. Mine specifically runs rough when shifting into higher gears/idle issues etc. My CEL actually flashes off and on when I'm on the hwy and I get a major loss of power at that point. It's like one of my cylinders actually stops working and it compensates the other 3 and runs semi-smooth until it resets itself. The CEL will actually go off after a while, but only for a day at most. It's had this problem for a few months now, and my Mazda has 154k on it! I know, pretty high. Me and my dad actually tried a few diff things on it last winter, like spark plugs etc. If I rememer right, I was getting the code 302. I think it was a misfire code. So, I'll post the end result as I'm gonna try this on Sat. If you have any words of wisdom please let me know!

[imola.zhp]

^ my words of wisdom would be to follow a guide to figure out what is causing your miss-fire issue. Cleaning your EGR valve will most likely NOT fix your problem...

[blueamcat]

Really? Drat. I kinda thought so but was hoping just maybe it'd do something.
Alright, I guess I'll start from ground zero again...

[imola.zhp]

^ sorry, hope that didn't come off rough, but yeah, if the code says its a miss-fire issue, I don't think the EGR is the problem. From what I've read the EGR usually causes crazy idle problems. Your issues seem to be at speed...

Either way, good luck! Hopefully its just a bad spark-plug boot or something else simple...

[blueamcat]

Yea I haven't replaced much yet. Just a few spark plugs so far. I was reading in another thread too, and I'm gonna see if I can test the coil packs. Any idea on how to do that? I'm new to working on engines. But I can do oil, brakes, springs, rotos etc. And I'm a woman. ;-) Love cars.

[dannyboy17]

Just registered, and my first post here...

I've read through a lot of the pages in this here thread, and after much enlightenment, I'm going to try this myself. Like most of you, I have a 2001 Protege ES with some issues. Mine specifically runs rough when shifting into higher gears/idle issues etc. My CEL actually flashes off and on when I'm on the hwy and I get a major loss of power at that point. It's like one of my cylinders actually stops working and it compensates the other 3 and runs semi-smooth until it resets itself. The CEL will actually go off after a while, but only for a day at most. It's had this problem for a few months now, and my Mazda has 154k on it! I know, pretty high. Me and my dad actually tried a few diff things on it last winter, like spark plugs etc. If I rememer right, I was getting the code 302. I think it was a misfire code. So, I'll post the end result as I'm gonna try this on Sat. If you have any words of wisdom please let me know!

P0302 Code - Cylinder #2 Misfire
Technical Description

Cylinder #2 Misfire Detected
What does that mean?

A P0302 code means that the the car's computer has detected that one of the engine's cylinders is not firing properly. In this case it's cylinder #2.
Symptoms
Symptoms may include:

* the engine may be harder to start
* the engine may stumble / stumble, and/or hesitate
* other symptoms may also be present

Causes

A code P0302 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

* Faulty spark plug or wire
* Faulty coil (pack)
* Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
* Faulty fuel injector
* Burned exhaust valve
* Faulty catalytic converter(s)
* Running out of fuel
* Poor compression
* Defective computer

Possible Solutions

If there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.

If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors.


I personally would change the coils/wires (at 154k, its a good idea if it has not been done in a while), see if that fixes ur problem. If it continues then just replace the injector on the second cylinder. I have some spare injectors laying around, let me know if u need one. Pretty sure they are the same for 01-03 proteges.

[blueamcat]

Thanks danny. I'll bring this info to my dad's house tomorrow so we can get some things started. I think this'll help a lot. :-)

EDIT: Checking things out today. Coil might be the problem after all. Will update.

[blueamcat]

Update! First off, my car was giving me a 303 code, not 302. I brought my car over to my dad's and we tested the 3rd plug a few different ways. We switched the plugs around etc. We noticed that it wasn't getting a good spark when hooked up to the 2/3 coil pack, but it got a better spark when hooked up the other one.

So, we called around to a few auto stores close by and only 1 had a coil pack in stock. It was only $18 so I figured why not. So I bought it, and replaced the old one and voila! Got 100 miles on it already and still no problems. I do have the old one in my trunk though, just in case! I'll see if it lasts, but I'm very happy to have my car running correctly again!

[imola.zhp]

^ congrats!

Glad that worked for you and glad you did NOT do all that work to clean the EGR only to still have the same issue. Mine was pretty easy to get-too and clean, but that was before I re-installed the stock intake. With the jainky home-made SRI the previous owner had on the car, it was easy to get too. Now that she's back to stock, it would be a little more work...

[blueamcat]

I'm glad as well, and thanks! If this part works out, I'm going to order another one just because its so cheap in price. That way I'll have two brand new coils. :-) Thank you everyone very much for the suggestions! Especially to Danny.

[dannyboy17]

I'm glad as well, and thanks! If this part works out, I'm going to order another one just because its so cheap in price. That way I'll have two brand new coils. :-) Thank you everyone very much for the suggestions! Especially to Danny.

glad it helped you, i might even get two new coils myself since Ive never changed them.

[Pneuma]

Hey guys and gals,

First post here. This has been an awesome thread. I know nothing about cars and have never sunk my hands in to my Protege's internal organs, but after my "stealership" diagnosed my CEL and asked me for $400.00 to replace something called an EGR valve, I thought I'd better do some more research.

Before I get my virgin hands in there to start removing parts of my engine, I wanted to make sure I was doing the right thing. I've read that this code can pop up not only due to a clogged valve, but that a faulty DPFE sensor or even a vacuum leak can be the culprit. I was hoping to describe some of my symptoms to the more experienced and knowledgeable folks here so that I can gain some certainty that cleaning the valve will solve my CEL.

- This is a 5 spd 2001 Protege ES 2.0, 147,500km (92,000 miles). I bought the car at 130k. When I purchased the vehicle it went from being a city-driven car to a highway driven car. Presumably the valve has never been cleaned.
- Low and sometimes erratic idle, <750
- Weak/Irregular acceleration: gains some "umph" at 3k rpm, otherwise weak (like a Civic from the same year (lol @ Civics))
- Increasingly poor fuel economy
- CEL, OBD-II P0401, EGR Low Flow

These problems have been developing for the past couple of months, with the CEL being the latest symptom. From this description, does a clogged valve seem likely? I don't want to poke around in there without being as sure as I can be that this will solve my problem. In my imagination, the gradual development of these particular symptoms seems to suggest that the valve is closing off like an artery after too many Big Macs, with each successive layer of deposits choking the EGR faster and faster.

Thanks again for this thread and for all the valuable insights. I'm looking forward to holding on to my $400.00 by fixing it my damn self.

[dannyboy17]

Hey guys and gals,

First post here. This has been an awesome thread. I know nothing about cars and have never sunk my hands in to my Protege's internal organs, but after my "stealership" diagnosed my CEL and asked me for $400.00 to replace something called an EGR valve, I thought I'd better do some more research.

Before I get my virgin hands in there to start removing parts of my engine, I wanted to make sure I was doing the right thing. I've read that this code can pop up not only due to a clogged valve, but that a faulty DPFE sensor or even a vacuum leak can be the culprit. I was hoping to describe some of my symptoms to the more experienced and knowledgeable folks here so that I can gain some certainty that cleaning the valve will solve my CEL.

- This is a 5 spd 2001 Protege ES 2.0, 147,500km (92,000 miles). I bought the car at 130k. When I purchased the vehicle it went from being a city-driven car to a highway driven car. Presumably the valve has never been cleaned.
- Low and sometimes erratic idle, <750
- Weak/Irregular acceleration: gains some "umph" at 3k rpm, otherwise weak (like a Civic from the same year (lol @ Civics))
- Increasingly poor fuel economy
- CEL, OBD-II P0401, EGR Low Flow

These problems have been developing for the past couple of months, with the CEL being the latest symptom. From this description, does a clogged valve seem likely? I don't want to poke around in there without being as sure as I can be that this will solve my problem. In my imagination, the gradual development of these particular symptoms seems to suggest that the valve is closing off like an artery after too many Big Macs, with each successive layer of deposits choking the EGR faster and faster.

Thanks again for this thread and for all the valuable insights. I'm looking forward to holding on to my $400.00 by fixing it my damn self.

I have a working EGR I cleaned myself for sale, that code does look like the EGR is faulty. Try cleaning it first to see if it continues, if not I can sell you my spare EGR for cheap.

[Pneuma]

That may interest me. I'm going to try to clean my existing valve first, though.

Can you give me the approximate weight and dimensions of the part so that I can calculate shipping from Florida to Nova Scotia? I'll probably get you to overnight it, I need this problem solved very quickly.

[dannyboy17]

id say it weighs like 1-2lbs, and it will fit in a small envelope (the one with cushion, not a regular letter envelope).

[mz3onturn7]

Hey guys... Im new here and this is my first mazda, so what does "PCM" and "the pins" refer to in the OP's steps 7 & 8 ? TIA.


7. Reassembly is the reverse of removal. I suggest resetting the PCM while doing this, so the EGR can readjust after you start it.

8. You may want to follow the Manual's suggestion of measuring the resistance of the pins, but my car runs ten times better now, and I have no stalling issues anymore.

9. Time to complete, 30 minutes at most. Good luck.

Britt

[paperthin]

I just feel like sharing my thoughts and experience.

I have to say that this is a good forum. It has saved me many trips to the mechanic and thus $$. I have a 98 Protege 1.8L with 285kms on it. It really runs very well. It is always reliable and I will be almost sad to give it up.

Anyway...I removed my EGR valve for the first time this past weekend @ 285kms on it. I feel as though have not needed to until now. I did it mostly for the challenge. I had to remove my battery and air intake to gain access. I also and to play with some coolant hosing in order to get access to the two 12m bolts holding that thing on. Once off i spent about 2 hours with a small wire brush manually cleaning it. There was a lot of carbon dust consistently coming out of that casing. I did not use oil or soak the thing because I felt that it would be the tackiness from such a product that could encourage more matter stick in the valve itself in the future. I did buy a new gasket for $8 not knowing if I needed it. I used it but I am not entirely positive that I needed to....I think I could have reused the gasket....at least once more.

Before I cleaned it my car had erratic rpm almost to the point of stalling whenever i would approach a stop sign or stop light. Now my car is running smooth. I have no idea how long it will last but I am happy.

[hopeful]

mine wont unstick, what should I do? This is the 2nd or 3rd time im cleaning it. Its been off my car fora few weeks now, i've left it to soak in castrol super clean, WD40, Carb Cleaner, and now ATF.

Im sorta being lazy with it cos my car needs a new engine soon, but it would still be nice to get this thing back in, any ideas?

[SoonP5ismine]

mine wont unstick, what should I do? This is the 2nd or 3rd time im cleaning it. Its been off my car fora few weeks now, i've left it to soak in castrol super clean, WD40, Carb Cleaner, and now ATF.

Im sorta being lazy with it cos my car needs a new engine soon, but it would still be nice to get this thing back in, any ideas?
assuming you have the same egr valve as mine (for non turbo protege 2003)
you can order a new one and have it shipped. when mine died in 06 this is the best deal i found read this post http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2643171&postcount=263

[mgerst1]

subbin

[imola.zhp]

mine wont unstick, what should I do? This is the 2nd or 3rd time im cleaning it. Its been off my car fora few weeks now, i've left it to soak in castrol super clean, WD40, Carb Cleaner, and now ATF.

Im sorta being lazy with it cos my car needs a new engine soon, but it would still be nice to get this thing back in, any ideas?

Replace with new?

You can order one from just about any auto-parts store...

Replace with used?

Search (FS) forums or local junk yards...

Good Luck!

[Nick&kari]

Good day, seems i have ran into a problem, I have a 2001 mazda protege es 2.0, the other week I had almost run my gas tank dry, didn't run out of feul but came very close. Well I filled up, and now my car is running like a bag of s#*t. It wants to stall when i come to a complete stop, has problems starting, and it idles between 0-1400 rmp, and lower when i push the clutch in, and the brakes seem not to work properly when rpms are low. Now i have done a little research and found that it maybe my EGR. Any kind of assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Nick

[mgerst1]

did it suck up sediment in gas tank? were they filling the underground tanks when you were filling up? try running some seafoam through the gas tank and see if it helps, if not i would try the egr cleaning

[vel]

mine wont unstick, what should I do? This is the 2nd or 3rd time im cleaning it. Its been off my car fora few weeks now, i've left it to soak in castrol super clean, WD40, Carb Cleaner, and now ATF.

Im sorta being lazy with it cos my car needs a new engine soon, but it would still be nice to get this thing back in, any ideas?

you mean the screw, mine was stuck too then screw started to strip so i used a small vice grip to grab the screw and turn it and not strip the head of the screw any further.

[808MP5]

darn egr problems... glad i don't have them anymore... im not even using it... its hooked up and everything but i took the tube and bent it a few times to block it off... no problems idling at all

[Omar MSP]

how the heck did yall get yours out? i tried to do mines today, the bolts sit in a unreachable position. and even if i get it, space is too tight to turn the ratchet...

sooo, how did you guys do yours?

[Not Jo3L]

Lol I have the same exact problem. I still havent gotten mine off, so I think I am going to take off the whole intake manifold.

[mgerst1]

so on the msp the throttle body is located where the intercooler cold pipe goes into the intake manifold? i ask cause i want to clean the egr and the throttle body, also on all throttle body cleaners i have seen it says not to use if you have a turbo, so what the hell do I use?

[speed1016]

I cleaned mine yeasterday. I used a stubby 1/4 rachet. And cleaned it with some brake cleaner. Runs great, and like the first post, total time 30 mins tops

[mgerst1]

what is the normal rpm at idle for the msp? mine is at 800 and dips to 200. i know part of the problem is the egr but i thought that caused it to dip from 1100 to 200 not start it low and bounce lower. im worried the egr might not be the only problem. can you use throttle body cleaner on the msp or will it put all that shit into the turbo?

[speed1016]

Mine was going from 750 down to 300-400. Im sitting at around 550-600 now. Big change for me. I wouldnt use throttle body cleaner. Just go to autozone and pay 2.99 for brake cleaner just incase

[mgerst1]

I have brake cleaner already so ill just use that

[MarvinM02]

I know that we give dealerships a hard time, but after a month with code p0401 and all the almost stalling issues and cleaning the egr, I went to my dealership in canada, told them after researching on the net and the code I was getting, that I thought the egr was still under warranty (2002 P5). The service manager looked up my vin, said yes it's still under a 7 year warranty, the part is in stock and I got my appointment for thursday. No hassles. Pass this on to any Canadian 2002/03 protege owners with 2.0 engine. PM me if you have any questions. I'll update after appointment

[red95_240sx]

brake cleaner doesnt do alot, that stuff comes off better if u leave it dry and brush it.

[MarvinM02]

Just got car back. Dealership replaced egr valve and gasket under warranty. No hassles, although he did try to push their 59.95 oil change lol.

[goodfornothing]

I just cleaned mine out yesterday but I wasn't able to take out the 4 screws that connect the solenoid and the valve together. I ended up stripping three of them. So I just sprayed carb cleaner into the holes. It didn't really do much, even though my car didn't idle extremely rough, but I think it's because I didn't clean it well enough.

Is there anyway to remove the stripped screws?

[Omar MSP]

I just cleaned mine out yesterday but I wasn't able to take out the 4 screws that connect the solenoid and the valve together. I ended up stripping three of them. So I just sprayed carb cleaner into the holes. It didn't really do much, even though my car didn't idle extremely rough, but I think it's because I didn't clean it well enough.

Is there anyway to remove the stripped screws?

should have WD'd the very first one after you couldn't turn it. or PB Blaster.

your best bet is to chisel them off.

[imola.zhp]

^ yep, thats yours best bet, chisel off and replace.

Mine were bad too, but yeah, I WD'd them and let them sit for 5 minutes. Then they came right out...

[goodfornothing]

Damn it -_- :(

[P.O.E.T.]

any idea on what tool to use to unscrew my volts....while i was trying to take them off i slipped them.....

[lanceam24]

go get a craftsman bolt out kit from sears. regular $19.99 but on sale for like $9.99. or if u maybe dont want the whole set, see if you can locate a #4 bolt out socket (fits 12mm)

[DSlab]

Anyone had problem with EGR leaking air? I hooked a smoke machine to the intake and saw that smoke are coming out from the EGR. It seem to be coming out by the shaft (the hole where the shaft go through) . Is it suppose to do that?

MY engine was burning lean, and that seems to be the place where air was leaking in.

[shane02pro5]

That's the whole point of this thread being created. It gets gunked up and won't shut causing a vacuum leak...so you take it off and clean it!

[DSlab]

I'm not talking about that the valve being stuck open. When I took mine off, the valve wasn't stuck at all. I am talking about the EGR leaking air even when the valve is fully closed. And that air is coming into the intake from outside of the EGR (from the engine bay), not from exhaust.

[shane02pro5]

Gotcha...I haven't seen or heard this before but maybe some ultra copper permatex silicone on both sides of the cheesy gasket will help.

[DSlab]

Here is the picture with the red marking showing where the leak was (smoke was coming out from there when I had the smoke machine hooked up). Theoretically it shouldn't allow any air through, since all the air needs to be accounted for by all the sensors. However, the design of this egr valve seems to be really crappy, so it almost seems like that they didn't really care about this issue (or maybe the amount of air coming through is negligible, I don't know).

I took the EGR off cleaned it as instructed by this thread, also took off the IAC and clean that as well. Put it all back, but engine still idles kinda rough and CEL comes back on. I guess I just need to get a new egr, just hope that the problem will go away after that.