How To: EGR Removal and Cleaning, Rough Idle Fix

[SoonP5ismine]

i also would like to thank the original poster for the instructions but it would have been alot better if in the instructions you mentioned that it is almost impossible to get the 2 12mm bolts out unless you remove the battery. also afer doing that the bolts are extremely hard to budge. i lost a 12mm socket somewhere under the egr and its still missing and i have no clue where. it hit 3 places before it dissapeared. also the 4 phillips screws were very rusted on my car and one snapped while i tried to take it out and i did have a good quality screwdriver. i went to home depot and got 4 new zinc plated hex bolts and i soked them in wd40 for a few hours before i put them back on the solenoid. overall im happy with the job but im just wondering how long will this last this time. i soaked the egr valve piston and the whole thing in carb cleaner overnight and then dried it and was pushing on the spring part like for half hour straight while soaking it in wd40. at the end i wd40 lubed it where it makes metal to metal contact and reassembled. this whole job took me about a day to comlete since the phillips bolt snapped and it was too late to go to home depot.

well thanx again.

[altspace]

Ok, I follow the write up. Car has 28K miles. Never had a CEL issue, no header, only intake/muffler. Car runs perfect but since I was doing this with another P5 I'd thought why not clean it anyway. Everything done and checked, drove about 20 miles and bam!...my first CEL came on. Had it cleared twice and same issue. About 20 or so miles later it comes on again, but she runs no different, it's smooth and perfect as before. Any ideas? The code is PO455.

[KD7000]

Another successful EGR cleaning here. After 60,000 miles, my P5 started to have the crappy idle and stalling issue. New spark plugs & wires didn't help, so EGR was next on the list.

For "easier" access, I removed the battery and used a small 1/4" drive ratchet & 12mm socket to get at the mounting bolts. It was still a pain in the ass, but I got it out eventually and gave it the carb cleaner bath.

The car is idling smoothly now.

Thanks for a great How-to writeup.

[CrazyCaker]

After only 30k kms, mine is fucked again. This is definitely only a temp fix, but I've heard that Mazda has an improved EGR replacement available. I heard this through a local Mazda tech. Does anyone have any info on this?

[altspace]

Opps...nevermind. PO455 is a Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak). Most likely my gas cap....doh!

[KD7000]

but I've heard that Mazda has an improved EGR replacement available. I heard this through a local Mazda tech. Does anyone have any info on this?Given that an aftermarket EGR valve is close to $200, I'd guess whatever revised / improved valve Mazda has is probably over $300. Great if it's covered under warranty, but I think I'd rather pull mine and clean it in another 60k.

If yours is clogging after only 30,000 km, I think you might have some additional problem going on.

[SoonP5ismine]

i keep strict logs of all work done to my car by me and if that ever happens by someone else. ill be sure to post it here to let you all know when im having this problem again. i cleaned the shit out of it alot like overkill i soaked it and worked it with my hands for a long time so i really hope it will last me a long long time. im anal about alot of shit and especially my car so im hoping it will last me past 100000 miles since this time it crapped out at 50200 miles. spmeone told me that if you do alot of short distance driving mostly in the city the carbon builds up alot more. i live exactly 20 seconds from a major interstate here in jersey and the shortest distance i ever go on it is about 20 minutes at highway speeds at least twice daily i do this trip so i guess thats why mine crapped out at 50200 miles. alot of other people i talked to had theirs fixed way within warranty coverage time. so anyway i still am gald i did it myself and not have to spend a shitload of money. im unemployed now so this helped.

[adedude]

Brilliant! I had rough idle for about 10k miles (68K total right now) and following the guide helped get rid of it! Either that or resetting the ECU helped a lot...

Anyway, I have a 1.6L ZM-DE engine and I took a couple pictures to help other 1.6's find and clean their car. Sorry about the quality. These pics are from my cell phone, but I am hoping they should still help a little.



TIPS AND PICS FOR 1.6L Proteges with ZM-DE engines!

DSC00168.JPG - removing the intake throttle body will help a lot. This involves removing 4 screws and two connectors. EGR in far upper right.

DSC00169.JPG - can you find the EGR? It's hidden just a little to the upper right of the center of the photo.

DSC00170.JPG - closeup picture of the EGR. You can see the 4 screws you will have to take apart later. Also shows the connector.

DSC00171.JPG - view from the same height as the EGR. You can see one of the bolts you have to take apart and the gasket sticking out the bottom. Don't let the gasket slip away from you!

Good luck!

[P-Funk!]

One More: I did it cheap/easy. I removed the EGR and ddin't remove the &*^%screws/solenoid. I just soaked the metal valve part in SeaFoam and finished it with brake cleaner. PIcked out what i could with a screwdriver....Re-installed - no problems. I wasn't idling/stalling ruff yet, i just did it as preventative maintenance.

I don't recommend it - BUT if you can't get the screws off -or don't have a gasket this is better than nuthin'... ;)

[protegeric]

as far as the screws go... i had problems with one also, i just used a pair of pliers. u guys could try that, u dont need channel locks or needle nose or vise grips really. just some regular pliers. i installed one screw this way.

heers a question though... if my gasket fell off and i did not reinstall it, how much problem would i be having? im still having a little problem with stalling, not too bad, just a little. because im not sure that the gasket was reinstalled properly or at all. oops. would the problem be pretty bad, or does it sound like im missing the gasket?


One More: I did it cheap/easy. I removed the EGR and ddin't remove the &*^%screws/solenoid. I just soaked the metal valve part in SeaFoam and finished it with brake cleaner. PIcked out what i could with a screwdriver....Re-installed - no problems. I wasn't idling/stalling ruff yet, i just did it as preventative maintenance.

I don't recommend it - BUT if you can't get the screws off -or don't have a gasket this is better than nuthin'... ;)

[Kansei]

as far as the screws go... i had problems with one also, i just used a pair of pliers. u guys could try that, u dont need channel locks or needle nose or vise grips really. just some regular pliers. i installed one screw this way.

heers a question though... if my gasket fell off and i did not reinstall it, how much problem would i be having? im still having a little problem with stalling, not too bad, just a little. because im not sure that the gasket was reinstalled properly or at all. oops. would the problem be pretty bad, or does it sound like im missing the gasket?

Sounds like you are missing the gasket to me. I didn't even know there was a gasket until the second time I took my EGR off (after cleaning it the first time my once smooth idle got rough). I was like "hey what is that little metal gasket doing down there".. somehow in the 2 or 3 days it didn't completely fall out of the engine bay.

I cleaned it up again , made sure the gasket was in place, and voila.. back to smooth like it was before :)

[martinmzfan]

Hey guys. I just replaced my drive-belts on my Protege and have news to report: My idle has SMOOTHENED UP noticeably! I also did change a dirty air filter at the same time but it was replaced 6 months ago when diagnosing and repairing the rough idle. The alt/WP belt was completely toast after 72K miles! Only 1 ridge left (barely) out of 4 and beginning to tear at one side. The PS/AC belt was okay but had normal age cracks in the ridges. I used Goodyear Gatorback Poly belts. Man it was a good thing I caught this impending failure yesterday... bizare only one belt was toast.

So... This is definately worth a try! After one day, my idle is really rock stable after belt replacement. I'll keep ya 'al posted.

BTW: I did the EGR and ISCV (plunger) clean-out, replace spark plugs & wires, reset ECU and idle was still a bit rough.

[SoonP5ismine]

After i cleaned my egr valve using the instructions in this thread it only lasted 1200 miles before the rough idle reappeared again. So unfortunately this How-To seems only a temporary fix. Being kinda sick of this problem reapearing again i decided to order a new one from a dealer in alabama which has the best price i could find of $125, and $6 for the gasket. I ordered it to be shipped via 2nd day UPS for $18 and got it quickly and installed it and i have no more problems hopefully for another 50000 miles. Doing the work myself wasnt as hard as the first time i did it but it is a tight spot to fit 12mm socket wrench to take the egr off. If you want to order it from the place i got it from here is the info:

egr valve $124.40
gasket $5.70
2 day UPS shipping was $18
total was $148.10

ordered from http://www.trussvillemazda.com (800 240 2121)
parts sales guys name: Marshall

here are pics of the old and new egr valve so you can see how its redesigned.

old -> http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i20/yourmomblows/car/egr/old/
new -> http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i20/yourmomblows/car/egr/new/

[Laser03pro]

Where did you guys get the 3in1 oil I looked everywhere.

[SoonP5ismine]

Where did you guys get the 3in1 oil I looked everywhere.
hardware stores, home depot places like that. you will not see it in aotomotive stores as i never did. if you are able to take the egr valve out then order a new one and save yourself a headache. i thought i can clean it up and was all happy about it just to see the problem return after 1200 miles. but its your choice. goodluck

[Laser03pro]

hardware stores, home depot places like that. you will not see it in aotomotive stores as i never did. if you are able to take the egr valve out then order a new one and save yourself a headache. i thought i can clean it up and was all happy about it just to see the problem return after 1200 miles. but its your choice. goodluck

Mine isn t having a problem but I was going to clean it out while I had the intake off.

[SoonP5ismine]

Mine isn t having a problem but I was going to clean it out while I had the intake off.
good idea but in reality what oil can withstand 900F+ heat like exhaust. thats the hottests part of the engine besides the catalytic converter at normal operating temp. i was advised by my friend to not put much oil in there as it will burn off quickly and leave deposits.

[PGFracing]

Thanks for this post. It totally fixed my car. It runs like new again. Thanks so much.

[cop1976]

My P5 started doing this last week. Did it once or twice in the morning then stopped. It started doing it more the last couple of days and the check engine light came on. I followed the instructions in regards to locating and removing the EGR valve. The valve was gummed up and the valve was stuck open (spring compressed and not retuning). I cleaned it up with throttle body cleaner and greased the valve and spring with lithium grease and re-installed it. Put everything back together and gave her a crank. Just like new!! I am not the most mechanically inclinded person, but if I can do it, anyone with the proper tools and some patience can do it. I found that removing the 2 12mm bolts were a bit difficult, but I got them out using a wrench and a socket.

THANKS FOR THE POST....IT SAVED ME A FEW HUNDRED DOLLARS!!

[SoonP5ismine]

I hope it lasts for ya. mine only lasted 1200 miles (approx 2000 Km) or so. then i had to buy a new valve. How many Km did you have on it when the check engine light came on? also if you get check engine light it should throw 2 different codes: insufficient egr flow and multiple cylinder misfire. i guess you wont see those for a while since you just cleaned it. Anyway once again good luck and make sure you post here if it happenes again.


My P5 started doing this last week. Did it once or twice in the morning then stopped. It started doing it more the last couple of days and the check engine light came on. I followed the instructions in regards to locating and removing the EGR valve. The valve was gummed up and the valve was stuck open (spring compressed and not retuning). I cleaned it up with throttle body cleaner and greased ithe valve and spring with lithium grease and re-installed it. Put everything back together and gave her a crank. Just like new!! I am not the most mechanically inclinded person, but if I can do it, anyone with the proper tools and some patience can do it. I found that removing the 2 12mm bolts were a bit difficult, but I got them out using a wrench and a socket.

THANKS FOR THE POST....IT SAVED ME A FEW HUNDRED DOLLARS!!

[cop1976]

I hope it lasts for ya. mine only lasted 1200 miles (approx 2000 Km) or so. then i had to buy a new valve. How many Km did you have on it when the check engine light came on? also if you get check engine light it should throw 2 different codes: insufficient egr flow and multiple cylinder misfire. i guess you wont see those for a while since you just cleaned it. Anyway once again good luck and make sure you post here if it happenes again.
My P5 has just under 150,000kms on it and this is the first time it began to sputter and set off the check engine light. I had a local shop check the OBD2 on the car and they said it was showing a problem with the EGR valve. They didn't give me much more info and they re-set the check engine light. The light came on a day later and the car began to sputter more often and for longer periods. Thats when I decided to do the self cleaning method to see if it would help. I have the Innove 3110 code reader on the way via an E-Bay purchase, but for now the check engine light is off and the car seems to be running 1000 times smoother than it did a few days ago. I'm hoping it will also help my fuel mileage as it seems to have dropped within the last few months. Hopefully it lasts for a while, but if not, I guess I got my moneys worth out of it. If it fails again I may just go and buy a new one from the dealership.

[SoonP5ismine]

wow thats still nice. 150000km is 93000 miles and mine crapped out at 50500 just 500 miles after warranty was over. some other people ive talked to said that theirs went at 35000 miles. anyway the new egr valve is redesigned from my original one. look a a few posts up. i posted pics.


My P5 has just under 150,000kms on it and this is the first time it began to sputter and set off the check engine light. I had a local shop check the OBD2 on the car and they said it was showing a problem with the EGR valve. They didn't give me much more info and they re-set the check engine light. The light came on a day later and the car began to sputter more often and for longer periods. Thats when I decided to do the self cleaning method to see if it would help. I have the Innove 3110 code reader on the way via an E-Bay purchase, but for now the check engine light is off and the car seems to be running 1000 times smoother than it did a few days ago. I'm hoping it will also help my fuel mileage as it seems to have dropped within the last few months. Hopefully it lasts for a while, but if not, I guess I got my moneys worth out of it. If it fails again I may just go and buy a new one from the dealership.

[Crazee D]

Um, after cleaning and throwing a CEL I checked under the hood to find...


I forgot to plug the connector back in!!

Make sure you don't forget this last step. (doh)

[RaiderMP5]

doh!

[altspace]

Mucho importante!

[Maxx Mazda]

When I put my turbo on, I disconnected my EGR and ran a breather filter on the pipe to avoid getting a CEL. And it worked thus far...

[khaosman]

I cleaned mine today, took about 45 minutes. It wasn't a tough project and I usually find ways to f things up. The bolts were kind of a PITA but with a Craftsman ratchet and my GIANT MUSCLES (lol), even Iowa/Minnesota winters posed no match!

Holy crap that thing was dirty though. I sprayed it with brake cleaner, then carb cleaner and it didn't seem like it was doing much. I soaked it in Simple Green for over half an hour while I mowed the lawn. Then soaked it in carb cleaner for a few minutes. Sprayed the crap out of it some more with carb cleaner. STILL LOOKED DIRTY AS HELL!!! At that point I gave up and reassembled it. The valve is in the PERFECT position where you can ALMOST see what you are doing, but no, you can't.

Then I broke a damn bolt on my battery clamp from overtightening it. I do this shit frequently. Again, giant muscles. ... haha.

[Laser03pro]

I cleaned mine today, took about 45 minutes. It wasn't a tough project and I usually find ways to f things up. The bolts were kind of a PITA but with a Craftsman ratchet and my GIANT MUSCLES (lol), even Iowa/Minnesota winters posed no match!

Holy crap that thing was dirty though. I sprayed it with brake cleaner, then carb cleaner and it didn't seem like it was doing much. I soaked it in Simple Green for over half an hour while I mowed the lawn. Then soaked it in carb cleaner for a few minutes. Sprayed the crap out of it some more with carb cleaner. STILL LOOKED DIRTY AS HELL!!! At that point I gave up and reassembled it. The valve is in the PERFECT position where you can ALMOST see what you are doing, but no, you can't.

Then I broke a damn bolt on my battery clamp from overtightening it. I do this shit frequently. Again, giant muscles. ... haha.

Next time try soaking it in super clean this stuff will clean anything.

[Kansei]

Then I broke a damn bolt on my battery clamp from overtightening it. I do this shit frequently. Again, giant muscles. ... haha.

lol I must be a super secret bodybuilder or something, I break bolts/nuts/whatever every single time I touch my car :P

My car is a little stumbly at idle when fully warmed up, it may be time to do this again. Damn I should never have done it the first time, I didn't need to at all!

[Nickd]

its impossible to get those damn bolts off the bottom!!! its really pissing me off

[RaiderMP5]

Take the battery out for more room. Use PB Blaster on the bolts. Then get a ratchet with a longer handle. Search this thread for Craftsman, as I have posted the part # and pic of the one that i used.

[Nickd]

I just finished. it didnt work. :( i dont know what to do ive had nothing but problems with this car I think its goin up for sale.

[Nickd]

my car is running like shit now!!! anybody know why? the rpms keep bouncing up and down at idle and its stalling like everytime i stop! and when the rpms are bouncing up and down i blow black smoke PLEASE HELP!!!!

[Kansei]

stalling every time you stop? Sound like a vaccuum leak. Did you possibly dislodge a vaccuum line?

I know after I cleaned my EGR the first time my idle actually got more rough, and it was because I lost the gasket between the intake manifold and the EGR valve body.

[wannabe]

my car is running like shit now!!! anybody know why? the rpms keep bouncing up and down at idle and its stalling like everytime i stop! and when the rpms are bouncing up and down i blow black smoke PLEASE HELP!!!!

any CELs? black smoke is not a good thing. as far as stalling, first thought is vac leak.

does it do this everytime? or only when cold/warm, etc. what else have you done recently?

[SoonP5ismine]

the little piston in the egr valve may be bent from the gas pressure inside the egrvalve so even if you clean it it still might get stuck eventually when a thick enough carbon buildup returns. mine was stuck in the closed position after i removed it and it did idle like crap and stalled on me alot. since the original cleaning it only lasted 1200 miles till i decided to order a new one. save yourself from further headaches and get yourself a new one (check earlier in this thread for my post with info and prices i paid)
my car is running like shit now!!! anybody know why? the rpms keep bouncing up and down at idle and its stalling like everytime i stop! and when the rpms are bouncing up and down i blow black smoke PLEASE HELP!!!!

[Kansei]

I'd buy a new EGR if I got confirmation that it was not going to get gummed up again.

[SoonP5ismine]

when you get the engine light you should check the error code. mine said low egr flow pressure or something and multiple cylinder misfire. i had a someone plug the code reader in and thats what it said. egr valve is a mechanical part unfortunatelly so it will happen again but with a new one atleast you know it shouldnt happen soon. i expect my new one to last atleast to 100000 miles now since ther original lasted 50000. and i dont know if this has anything to do with it but with each and every cold start of my car i let it warm up atleast 3 minutes before driving. so when its cold isnt there a rich fuel mixture in the engine? and rich mixture would create extra carbon buildup cuz its not burned off as completely as when hot? im trying to analize this as the breakdown times for the egr valves of people i talked to vary alot. could it be cuz of how you operate your car? like with warmups and stuff like that?

I'd buy a new EGR if I got confirmation that it was not going to get gummed up again.

[CrazyCaker]

Just to follow up on this...

I cleaned mine a second time due to experiencing the same symptoms only a few months later. I found that the valve shaft inside was caked with carbon! This was causing the valve to stick even after letting it sit for hours soaked in carb cleaner.

My solution:
http://www.widgetsupply.com/dremel/531.jpg

This on my Dremel. With this you can get into the housing and actually CLEAN the valve shaft! While pressing on the spring to get the valve to open and close and turning it to get completely around I was able to bring both the valve and the shaft to a mirror like finish, just like new. :)

[Maxx Mazda]

Just to follow up on this...

I cleaned mine a second time due to experiencing the same symptoms only a few months later. I found that the valve shaft inside was caked with carbon! This was causing the valve to stick even after letting it sit for hours soaked in carb cleaner.

My solution:
http://www.widgetsupply.com/dremel/531.jpg

This on my Dremel. With this you can get into the housing and actually CLEAN the valve shaft! While pressing on the spring to get the valve to open and close and turning it to get completely around I was able to bring both the valve and the shaft to a mirror like finish, just like new. :)

And? Idle and everything back to normal?

[CrazyCaker]

And? Idle and everything back to normal?

Of course :)

[reaveyster]

I have a 1993 Mazda Protege that just failed inspection. The problem is NXO so it may be an EGR problem. Can anyone telll me how to clean or replace an EGR on a 1993? Or any tricks to get it through inspection? The internet, other then this forum, has been no help even for a replacement.

[msp35]

Anyone have an unusually high idle on cold start-up after doing this. Since I've cleaned the EGR in the mornings I start the car and for ~2 minutes or more it idles >2000rpm. Is that normal? It doesn't bother me, just curious.

[peepsalot]

Anyone have an unusually high idle on cold start-up after doing this. Since I've cleaned the EGR in the mornings I start the car and for ~2 minutes or more it idles >2000rpm. Is that normal? It doesn't bother me, just curious.
That is normal, it always does that, you probably just weren't paying attention to it before. The ECU does that so the engine will get up to optimum operating temperature faster.

[Kansei]

^^ over 2k RPMs seems pretty high to me though. I've never seen more than maybe 1500-1600.

[dstone]

I have a 2002 protege LX with auto-trans and about 40,000 KM.
I started to get the rough idle problem a few months ago and it slowly got worse, but it never stalled.

I googled around and found this forum and I read all the posts in this thread.
Two weeks ago I cleaned the solenoid, because it's much easier to remove, but it didn't help.
Last weekend I got some throttle body cleaner from Canadian Tire, and a small ratchet wrench with a 4" handle, the only one that fit under the EGR.
I spread a white rag under the EGR in case anything fell, the socket bit and bolts did fall a few times.
I had to use grip pliers to take off the 4 screws, they were rusted and bent, so I replaced them with new ones.

The EGR was coated inside with carbon and the valve/spring was difficult to move and would stick open.
I soaked the EGR in the throttle body cleaner for a few hours then took it out and wiped it inside with a rag, I did this about 5 times over the weekend.
The throttle body cleaner was clear like water, but would turn black every time the EGR soaked in it.

The spring/valve finnally moved freely and didn't stick, there was still a bit of carbon inside, but I was pressed for time so I put it back on the engine.

I've been driving it every morning since monday and there is no more rough idle, and it seems to have more power when i'm accelerating from a stop.

Thanks Britt and everyone else who contributed to this thread.

PS.
The rough idling would only occur in the first 10~20 minutes that I used my car in the morning, after the engine was hot for a while it would idle ok.
I always used regular 5w30 oil in the car, but this past May I decided to use synthetic oil, and a few days after is when I first noticed the rough idling.
So I'm thinking that the rough idle was a side effect of using the synthetic oil, because the engine took longer to get hot.
I guess the rough idle would have eventually happened if I still used regular oil, but switching to synthetic caused the problem to occur sooner.

PS2.
Removing the battery gave me extra elbow room and make the removal and installtion easier, and without power the ECU was reset.
Is there a reset switch for the ECU or is removing the battery for an hour the only way to do it?

[Skoozul]

Right after I used the syn it started to idle weird. What ended up happening was because the molecules are smaller there was more blow by in an older engine and it burns more, clogging up the egr faster. Or at least that’s my theory.

[Kansei]

Welcome to the forums dstone!!!!

40,000km! wow that's nice and low mileage. .. I have 119,000km on my 2002.5 :(

[silverrotor]

Yeah, I did exactly as CrazyCaker did. That little Dremol bit worked wonders. As mentioned previously, I ran the bit over the plunger/rod awhile rotating It to bring back a mirror shine. I used PB Blaster (man I love this stuff). I didn't even bother to lube the shaft with oil or anything else b'c It would have promoted gumming up of the valve anyway.

A little trick I learned awhile re-installing the valve back was I layed a thin layer of hylomer b'n the metal gasket and the valve Itself. Doing this would make Installation TONS easier and prevents the gasket from falling. The hylomer ends up burning off anyway.

[Pmpkinhead]

What is hylomer and where can you purchase it? Thanks for the info!


Yeah, I did exactly as CrazyCaker did. That little Dremol bit worked wonders. As mentioned previously, I ran the bit over the plunger/rod awhile rotating It to bring back a mirror shine. I used PB Blaster (man I love this stuff). I didn't even bother to lube the shaft with oil or anything else b'c It would have promoted gumming up of the valve anyway.

A little trick I learned awhile re-installing the valve back was I layed a thin layer of hylomer b'n the metal gasket and the valve Itself. Doing this would make Installation TONS easier and prevents the gasket from falling. The hylomer ends up burning off anyway.

[silverrotor]

http://www.royalenfieldusa.com/images/PrmtxHylomarHPGasktDrssngZ90942.jpg

This high-temperature, non-hardening, non-curing gasket dressing/sealant provides an instant seal after assembly with proper torque! As a dressing, it holds gaskets in place and allows for repositioning during assembly, insures easy disassembly, even after long-term application, and seals surface imperfections. It's ideal for the [*EGR Valve's*] :D gearbox gaskets, timing cover gasket, rocker block gaskets and the pushrod cover gasket as found on the Royal Enfield. Comes in a 29.6-ml tube.

[Pmpkinhead]

Thanks, I'll get some after work. Awesome, I never heard of it and I,ve been a home garage mechanic for years.(rtfm) LOL

367 (mp3yellow

[bazooka joe]

over the last few days my idle has become increasingly eratic...runs about 700 then drops to almost 0..jumps up to 1k....slowly drops to 500-700..back and forth.....looks like egr cleaning tomorrow!!

[silverrotor]

I used It when I rebuilt my s5 TII (RX-7) Engine. This stuff Is great!

[Kansei]

I used It when I rebuilt my s5 TII (RX-7) Engine. This stuff Is great!

thanks for the info. I need to make a run to the auto parts store anyway for a couple little things I need :)

[btownprotege]

with my 02 2.0 protege there seems to be alot more bolts and tubes.. any suggestions? okay i have 4 bolts off... and now im stuck with the throttle...

[Skoozul]

you shouldn't have to take anything off to get at the egr except for the intake tubing at the throttle body

[SoonP5ismine]

you shouldn't have to take anything off to get at the egr except for the intake tubing at the throttle body
taking out the battery and strut bar helps alot as you need some angle to do this comfortably.

[dstone]

I took off the air intake tube and the battery, I don't have a strut bar.
Taking off the battery does give you alot of extra elbow room, and with the battery disconnected the ECU is reset.
Just be careful with the battery contacts, you could get a nasty shock.

I spread a white rag under the EGR, the wrench bit and bolts did fall a few times.
The rag also prevented my hand from getting scratched.

I used a small ratchet wrench with a 4" handle and a small 12mm bit.

It takes a bit of time the first time you do it because you're learning, but the next time will be much easier.

[Kansei]

Yeah it's really not bad once you do it once and can feel around and know where everything is. Most things with this car seem to be that way. Not everything is 100% intuitive, but once you've done it it's easy :)

[loveofmoney69]

may i ask where is the egr valve located i have a mazda mp3 2001? I i have all the symptoms yall describing. Any help would be awesome.

[shane02pro5]

See post #1

[btownprotege]

i tried to do this today... but i wasnt able to really get at the 2 bolts .. they wrench wouldnt fit to get bolt #2 becuase of something underneath of it.. boo..

[Kansei]

i tried to do this today... but i wasnt able to really get at the 2 bolts .. they wrench wouldnt fit to get bolt #2 becuase of something underneath of it.. boo..

I can get to it using my craftsman 1/3" ratchet.. it's not really thin or anything, but it gets in there.

[Pmpkinhead]

Do you mean 1/4" drive ratchet?


I can get to it using my craftsman 1/3" ratchet.. it's not really thin or anything, but it gets in there.

[Kansei]

Do you mean 1/4" drive ratchet?

next size up.. I always forget what size that is haha.

[silverrotor]

The best way to remove the bolt that holds the EGR Valve In place (atleast, the bolt closest to the fire wall) Is to use a stubby wrench. As for the other bolt (furthest from the fire wall) a socket will do just fine. Fini!

[Pmpkinhead]

My car started stalling yesterday and it died twice today when I pushed the clutch in.(first)

367 (mp3yellow

[Kansei]

My car started stalling yesterday and it died twice today when I pushed the clutch in.(first)

367 (mp3yellow

Have you done the EGR cleaning or are you now planning on it? Sounds like you have a vaccuum leak. Check all your intake pipes and stuff. My car did that when I busted a hose clamp on my intake. The MAF wasn't seeing any air go by because the engine was getting it's air straight from the bay.

[loveofmoney69]

so i did the egr cleaning today that went smooth but went to go clean the iac that didnt go so great. I lost a little tiny plastic piece that is at the end of the plunger inside of the iac.If you want to know i had butter fingers and it fell.parts everywhere.Need to go look for a new iac tomorrow. Plz everyone that is going to try this on there own be very careful with the iac.

[Kansei]

IAC? hmm did I miss something? Does the IAC need to get cleaned often too? I don't even recall where it is haha.

[protegeric]

its the little plastic piece at the end of the spring. anyone out there with a wrecked protege wanna pull theirs off. please do. the IAC was way dirtier than the EGR. the IAC is right on top of the intake manifold near the throttle body. u need a tamper-proof T25 torx bit and its easy to do. but... BE CAREFUL.
once again, anyone with a junked protege, pull ur IAC off and let loveofmoney69 know. we have a seed of somethin off a tree in it right now and it works but idles funny. HA! seed mod!


so i did the egr cleaning today that went smooth but went to go clean the iac that didnt go so great. I lost a little tiny plastic piece that is at the end of the plunger inside of the iac.If you want to know i had butter fingers and it fell.parts everywhere.Need to go look for a new iac tomorrow. Plz everyone that is going to try this on there own be very careful with the iac.

[LordWorm]

not sure what the go is with the US version of the car, but i run mine here in australia with the EGR unplugged...i.e. it never opens. Ever. So i never ever get exhaust emmissions through my intake. evil thing it is.

ANYWAY

no CEL, no ill effects, there is probably an error code on there, havn't been stuffed plugging it into a diagnostic thingy, really couldnt be stuffed, as it works with it unplugged :)

[dstone]

The IAC is the Solenoid valve, I cleaned it before the EGR, but it made no difference in the rough idle.
Idle Air Controller (IAC), a motor-driven valve which controls intake air to maintain idle RPM in internal combustion engines
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1797962


The EGR heats the incoming air, helps get rid of toxic gases, and makes the engine more fuel efficient.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Egr

[Pmpkinhead]

Have you done the EGR cleaning or are you now planning on it? Sounds like you have a vaccuum leak. Check all your intake pipes and stuff. My car did that when I busted a hose clamp on my intake. The MAF wasn't seeing any air go by because the engine was getting it's air straight from the bay.

I did it early this Summer but I may have to do it again. Saturday nite in N. Kentucky it got REALLY BAD. I will check for air leaks but how?

367 (mp3yellow

[loveofmoney69]

wow i had a friend with an extra IAC wooo hooo should get it on tonight wish me luck.Hey eric,Greg came through he did have an extra throttle body left . :))))))))))

[Maxx Mazda]

Ya, IAC had more to do with shitty idle than the EGR did for me...

[loveofmoney69]

man my car is running smooth now.MAn what would i have done with out this forum,i think i would have been totally lost.Thanks everyone,this is what the mazda family is about

[bazooka joe]

man my car is running smooth now.MAn what would i have done with out this forum,i think i would have been totally lost.Thanks everyone,this is what the mazda family is about

cool!

[bazooka joe]

over the last few days my idle has become increasingly eratic...runs about 700 then drops to almost 0..jumps up to 1k....slowly drops to 500-700..back and forth.....looks like egr cleaning tomorrow!!

cleaned the egr tonight, IAC tomorrow!

[BadKarma]

Cleaned my EGR before the weather got poor here, and the results were noticable.

Most prominent change would be the quieting of the idle, something I do really appreciate. Overall, things are smoother and generally improved.

Thanks for posting this Britt! :)

[urbanbiker]

Hey,

did the IAC on my car cause it was a 10 min job from off to back on. It really didn't do anything for the idle or anything. It was quite covered in carbon though. I reset the ECU after it was done as well. I'll have to try the EGR now and see what that does.

Matt

[Kansei]

I think it's time for me to do the EGR cleaning before it gets too cold in the garage. My idle hasn't been the smoothest lately, of course with the AWR front motor mount it only makes it worse :P

[bazooka joe]

cleaned the egr the other day, honestly i was surprised how clean in was...there wasn't any carbon on the spring/plunger...IAC tomorrow...of course i can't test anything till i get my newly repaired and ceramic coated MAM mani back next week!! i can't wait to get back in my car...it's been about a month now and it's killing me to not be able to drive it!!(pissed)

hey chris, would you be interested in my MPI? i'm going FMU and voltage clamp soon...just asking...:)

[Kansei]

I've never really looked into the MPI.. is it a standalone?

[bazooka joe]

I've never really looked into the MPI.. is it a standalone?

no, piggy back...controls fuel and timing...it works, just a bear to tune with an auto...and i'm not running mad psi so the fmu and clamp will do me fine...just and fyi..stand alone is major bucks $$$

[Kansei]

not for megasquirt+EDIS :)

[bazooka joe]

bruce cleaned my IAC (it was all carboned up11) today reinstalled it and the egr...got my new mani on reinstalled all the crap and after a few cranks...started up and ran well! took her for a ride and realized i forgot to tighten down a cold pipe..the blow off valve opened and bam off came the pipe...well needless to say it did run to well...limped home tightened her up....nice an smooth baby!!
if your having idle problems don't forget the IAC...!

[red95_240sx]

what is the IAC. i have a 1.6l. wheni crank it, the idles bounces and stumbles like the engine is gonna die and it corrects itself. thenonce i put it in gear, the ca rolls for a while and dies.

[jeswin12]

On Step 7, what is the PCM and how will you reset it?

Also, what is IAC and how to clean it?

[Kansei]

On Step 7, what is the PCM and how will you reset it?

Also, what is IAC and how to clean it?

The PCM is just the term used for the onboard computer. You can reset it by disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery for a while, then going in the car, hitting the brakes a couple times to make sure the system is discharged. Then reconnect it. Word of warning: If you have the factory alarm system (i.e. when you press the panic button the horn freaks out, doesn't just beep in a pattern), it may re-arm right when you connect the battery. Have your remote handy in case you set off the shock sensor (in the case of the P5).

The IAC is on top of the throttle body. It's basically where the EGR is but on top of the throttle body instead of under stuff. You'll need a special torx bit (a security torx bit) to open it up to clean it. I haven't cleaned mine yet, doing just the EGR was enough any time I had rough idle.

[protegeric]

T25 tamper-proof torx bit, u can get a nice set of tamper proof torx bits for a reasonable $ at Sears.
IAC: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1797962&postcount=97
Theres a little white piece of plastic on the end of the spring on the IAC. DONT LOOSE IT!


The PCM is just the term used for the onboard computer. You can reset it by disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery for a while, then going in the car, hitting the brakes a couple times to make sure the system is discharged. Then reconnect it. Word of warning: If you have the factory alarm system (i.e. when you press the panic button the horn freaks out, doesn't just beep in a pattern), it may re-arm right when you connect the battery. Have your remote handy in case you set off the shock sensor (in the case of the P5).

The IAC is on top of the throttle body. It's basically where the EGR is but on top of the throttle body instead of under stuff. You'll need a special torx bit (a security torx bit) to open it up to clean it. I haven't cleaned mine yet, doing just the EGR was enough any time I had rough idle.

[jeswin12]

Thanks for the tips my friend

[sephiroth]

just cleaned my EGR today on my ATX 1.8L.. getting the first 12mm bolt off wasen't too hard, but MAN that second one was a frecking nightmare. There was some sort of vacc line that was in my way, and I couldn't get to the second bolt with a socket wrench because it had a holding piece that was attached to the rear engine mount that didn't give me enough room. So I had to use about 4 different posistions with a regular wrench to remove it and to screw it back on. Took me the whole of 2hours to do. There was enough carbon build up to the point that I just had to lightly tap on it for the stuff to come crumbling out. Test drove it and things seemed much better than previsouly. It acutaly stalled out of no-where today, so I decided this was over-due.

[mzdalvr]

Hi

I just did this to mine but I have a question that I can't seem to find the answer to. The metal gasket that is inserted between the TB and the EGR has a slight indentation to it on one side. Does anyone know which side the indentation shoulld go? I think I put mine on correctly otherwise I would have gotten and EGR CEL due to a leak - is that correct?

Thanks.

[mgt3]

Works really well thanks

[mzdalvr]

Hi

I just did this to mine but I have a question that I can't seem to find the answer to. The metal gasket that is inserted between the TB and the EGR has a slight indentation to it on one side. Does anyone know which side the indentation shoulld go? I think I put mine on correctly otherwise I would have gotten and EGR CEL due to a leak - is that correct?

Thanks.


BUMP!

[Kansei]

I thought it only fit on one way.. or on the EGR there was something that in a way indicated which was the correct way to put it. You'd know if your EGR valve was leaking.. your idle would be rough again. Mine was worse than it was before I cleaned it when I forgot to put the gasket back on.

[cm6501]

you are my fucking hero! time to go clean mine (drive)

You are also my fucking hero!

[122 Vega]

Wow - Haven't looked at this thread in a long time...25 pages... and it seems that it has helped quite a few people, I'm glad for that, although I see that Mazda has finally released a TSB for the EGR now. I hate them... Well, doing this every few months certainly is better than taking it to the dealer! Since I got my DSM AFC 2 in and tuned, my EGR has stayed a bit cleaner than before. no more of Mazda's 8.5:1 AFR!

Britt

[671_p5]

Wow - Haven't looked at this thread in a long time...25 pages... and it seems that it has helped quite a few people, I'm glad for that, although I see that Mazda has finally released a TSB for the EGR now. I hate them... Well, doing this every few months certainly is better than taking it to the dealer! Since I got my DSM AFC 2 in and tuned, my EGR has stayed a bit cleaner than before. no more of Mazda's 8.5:1 AFR!

Britt
Do you have a link to this tsb? And is it only for the msp or the protege 5 as well?

[Tzar177]

well i took off the egr and iac. did the cleaning....used gumout carb cleaner. bolted/plugged everything back up. On initial startup, the idle was wonderful. Giving that, i still decided to run some seafoam thru the booster line. I let it suck up about 3/4 the can then i shut the engine off. I let that sit for 10min or so. Started the car back up and now it idled rough again...prolly cuz of the seafoam in the system. I waited for the car to warm to norm temp then i took it for a spin on the highway for 10-15min...of course i had white smoke coming out. Took it home and parked....started it up the next day and i still have rough idle. Any ideas here?

[xelderx]

well i took off the egr and iac. did the cleaning....used gumout carb cleaner. bolted/plugged everything back up. On initial startup, the idle was wonderful. Giving that, i still decided to run some seafoam thru the booster line. I let it suck up about 3/4 the can then i shut the engine off. I let that sit for 10min or so. Started the car back up and now it idled rough again...prolly cuz of the seafoam in the system. I waited for the car to warm to norm temp then i took it for a spin on the highway for 10-15min...of course i had white smoke coming out. Took it home and parked....started it up the next day and i still have rough idle. Any ideas here?

Mine is doing the same thing. I'm going to change the plugs out and see if that fixes it. If that isn't it I'll try plug wires and or coils. I should probably take a look at the fuel filter too.

[02PROTEGE2.0]

Mine is doing the same thing. I'm going to change the plugs out and see if that fixes it. If that isn't it I'll try plug wires and or coils. I should probably take a look at the fuel filter too.

if u did seafoam you HAVE TO change the oil right after its run through the system and ur exhaust starts coming clean. very important.

its good to do seafoam right before and oil change along with new plugs, new/cleaned airfilter etc.

basically what im getting at is having any seafoam in the system for a long period of time is bad... get it out of there ASAP.

[xelderx]

if u did seafoam you HAVE TO change the oil right after its run through the system and ur exhaust starts coming clean. very important.

its good to do seafoam right before and oil change along with new plugs, new/cleaned airfilter etc.

basically what im getting at is having any seafoam in the system for a long period of time is bad... get it out of there ASAP.

I did change my oil after the Seafoam. I've swapped motors since I did the Seafoam.

[Tzar177]

wont be able to change oil til wednesday, i ordered a K & N filter.

[Tzar177]

Mine is doing the same thing. I'm going to change the plugs out and see if that fixes it. If that isn't it I'll try plug wires and or coils. I
should probably take a look at the fuel filter too.


I've already recently changed the plugs and wires, not coils tho. Where is the fuel filter located? maybe i should check mine....

[xelderx]

I found my problem today. I have a blown intake manifold gasket. I started spraying carb cleaner around the intake manifold and found it.

[Kansei]

I found my problem today. I have a blown intake manifold gasket. I started spraying carb cleaner around the intake manifold and found it.

I've heard that's actually a pretty common issue on these cars as they get higher mileage. I'll have to replace mine soon I'm sure.. they weren't looking too "fresh" when I had my intake manifold apart when I was at 76k miles

[gone_fishin]

I've heard that's actually a pretty common issue on these cars as they get higher mileage. I'll have to replace mine soon I'm sure.. they weren't looking too "fresh" when I had my intake manifold apart when I was at 76k miles

hit me up when you do kansei, I'm in the middle of that right now, and I'm sure I'll have plenty of little pearls of wisdom to share.

[Rally Ninja]

Come do mine for me Britt. Just trying to take the hotpipe off and I gave up lol

[xelderx]

Well, I replaced my intake mainfold gasket today. I reset the ECU and cranked the car up. My problem got worse. Before the car would stumble at idle for 10-15 seconds and then cut off. Now it just immediately cuts off. It won't idle at all. I'm a little pissed at it right now so I'm going to head to work and hopefully figure it out tomorrow. I tried spraying a little carb cleaner around the manifold to check for leaks, but I didn't find anything. I'm at a loss right now. I'll probably just get another gasket from the dealer and try it again.

[ProtegeBlues]

After rebuilding/replacing my head, the engine sounded great but the idle was rough, and very slow when the engine warmed up. I removed and cleaned the EGR valve as suggested and the idle is much much better.

The removal wasn't too bad. I had a small 1/4" drive socket set that worked perfectly. Until I got this set out I could see how this could be awkward and difficult.

Upon removal, the EGR was somewhat fouled, but it operated, so I was skeptical that this would help. I cleaned it and oiled it as recommended, and it did the trick!!

Thanks for the info!

[xelderx]

OK..I found my prblem today. I actually have several large cracks in the intake runners on the manifold near the mounting flange.

[bazooka joe]

OK..I found my prblem today. I actually have several large cracks in the intake runners on the manifold near the mounting flange.

wow, pics??

[Kansei]

whoa cracks in the intake runners? I'll have to be careful when I torque stuff down :P

[122 Vega]

I got this PM, so I thought I'd just add this for people who don't know,
Quote:
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset">
i know you don't know me but i was reading your how to, but you never explained how to reset the egr.
thanks

</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<!-- / message --><!-- sig -->__________________

All you have to do is disconnect the battery for about five minutes. Some people say to hit the brake pedal a couple of times while the battery is disconnected to discharge the capacitors on the circuit board of the PCM, but just having the door open with the dome light switched on is enough to do that. It may take a few miles for the PCM to adjust itself after clearing the long term fuel trim memory. When you reconnect the battery, the car may not start, just lock and unlock the doors with the key fob and it will reset the alarm. Start the car and let it idle until warm before driving it. Some people say it takes 150 miles before the computer relearns, but I have never noticed any specific point. Let me know if you have any other questions,

Britt

[red95_240sx]

my stock exhaust actually seems to limit this problem(egr sticking). i just gave it a thought.

Is this possible?

for you p5ers my MS axleback is for sale. it will also fit the sedan a bit shorter. i will also trade for a set of coil springs.(ughdance)

[xelderx]

wow, pics??

I'll get some when I can. It cracked because I didn't have the brace on the back of the manifold that supports it from the block. The manifold is pretty heavy to just be supported by the mounting flange. Along with the larger ports reducing the amount of aluminum around the flange and my AWR motormounts it was only a matter of time before it cracked. I will say that it did hold up for over a year the way it was though. Not too shabby considering the conditions.

[Kansei]

see I knew that brace was there for a reason.. I take back all consideration I've put into removing it in the past :)

[red95_240sx]

bump

my stock exhaust actually seems to limit this problem(egr sticking). i just gave it a thought.

Is this possible?

for you p5ers my MS axleback is for sale. it will also fit the sedan a bit shorter. i will also trade for a set of coil springs

[red95_240sx]

(bump)

[kc3635]

yea, I'm having idle problems as well with my MSP with 30k miles. The thing is that my engine sometimes shuts off after accelerating hard through first and second and letting go of the gas abruptly. the RPMs will fall and keep falling till the engine stops leaving me without power steering, destined for a crash. It only happens while rolling though, and happens alot when i gas hard and abruptly let go. sometimes, ill feather the gas to keep it from stalling but, not knowing how to drive stick well, its gettin annoying. I was wondering what the chances are that this is an EGR problem because I don't want to jeprodize anything. If anything, Ill take it to the mazda dealer but I was hoping to see if I could do this quick fix myself. I'm not very experienced with fixing cars but know my tools and all. thanks.

[mazdaspeed777]

subbin, will be doing this to a few cars soon

[mazdaspeed777]

I just got finished cleaning my EGR. It was quite an adventure. Here are a few pics:

Here it is, This grey clip is a bitch to get off:
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q82/mazdaspeed777/2afd952fa4f2.jpg

Yes that is my leg inside the engine bay. I found out it was easier to get to the EGR valve:
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q82/mazdaspeed777/fc2c65c5d429.jpg

So I couldn't get the grey clip off so I decided to take the two bolts out first and I actually broke a socket! that was a first.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q82/mazdaspeed777/685628ac3113.jpg
So when I got the bolts out and removed the EGR valve it was alot easier to get it off.

Here is mine when I took it off. This is after 68,000 miles:
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q82/mazdaspeed777/31dc5e9cc6ce.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q82/mazdaspeed777/7d760d2ff778.jpg

Here is after I cleaned it with some brakleen, scrubed it with a wire brush, and cleaned it more with some Q-tips.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q82/mazdaspeed777/02825c35f82a.jpg

[SoonP5ismine]

I really hope it works for u! I cleaned mine like crazy with wire brush and soaked it in break parts cleaner overnight and the problem came back in about 1200 miles. i posted in this thread somewhere much much earlier about how i bought a new one cheap and my egr is still working fine with about 9000 miles on it so far. good luck!
[quote=mazdaspeed777]I just got finished cleaning my EGR. It was quite an adventure. Here are a few pics:

[Shasta]

My car purrs at idle but would it be the EGR valve that causes the lurching when your driving slow between 1 and 2nd? And only when it starts does it rev up quickly and then quickly settles down but at idle the needle does not fluctuate at all, very smooth, 67K. Definitely a great post.

[SoonP5ismine]

It could be it. when my car had the egr problem it idled sortof low and when i tried to accelerate in neutral i couldnt level out the rpm it jumped up quick and couldnt make it go at 1000 rpm cuz it went much higher or lower. you should check what codes your ecu is throwing. mine had two codes. one was multiple cylinder misfire and the second was inssufficient egr gas flow or gass pressure or something like that. good luck!

My car purrs at idle but would it be the EGR valve that causes the lurching when your driving slow between 1 and 2nd? And only when it starts does it rev up quickly and then quickly settles down but at idle the needle does not fluctuate at all, very smooth, 67K. Definitely a great post.

[sting88]

So, I'm curious, for those who have attempted to CLEAN their EGR valve, how successful has it been long-term? How many Km's/miles have you gone on it?

I removed mine and the plunger was indeed stuck, so I cleaned it with carb cleaner until the plunger moved freely, but after only 500 km's, it was sticking again (causing rough idle). I did NOT lube it with 3en1 or anything - so I just removed it and cleaned it again and this time lubed it well with 3en1... we'll see what happens.

Anyhow, back to my initial question, has anyone had long term success with a cleaning?

Lance

[SoonP5ismine]

no long term for me. 1200 miles after my cleaning it ran like shit again.


So, I'm curious, for those who have attempted to CLEAN their EGR valve, how successful has it been long-term? How many Km's/miles have you gone on it?

I removed mine and the plunger was indeed stuck, so I cleaned it with carb cleaner until the plunger moved freely, but after only 500 km's, it was sticking again (causing rough idle). I did NOT lube it with 3en1 or anything - so I just removed it and cleaned it again and this time lubed it well with 3en1... we'll see what happens.

Anyhow, back to my initial question, has anyone had long term success with a cleaning?

Lance

[mazdaspeed777]

I just did mine a couple weeks ago and everything is running tip top shape so far

[Dino1956]

Mine was bad for a couple weeks before I realized what it was. My girlfriend hated driving in my car when it was acting up for this reason above. The looks I got from people......great write up here Britt.

Sure many people will use this thread. Thanks.....

-RSilly Question ! I have the 2000 DX 1.6 Auto Transmission. Do I have an EGR and is it located in the same place ? Forgive me. I just don't know. My car Rumbles a lot at Startup while still in Park. Was wondering if this could be my problem. Thanks guys.

[SoonP5ismine]

Silly Question ! I have the 2000 DX 1.6 Auto Transmission. Do I have an EGR and is it located in the same place ? Forgive me. I just don't know. My car Rumbles a lot at Startup while still in Park. Was wondering if this could be my problem. Thanks guys.
you should see if your car has a small pipe coming out of the exhaust manifold and follow it. the egr is at the end of that pipe.

[red95_240sx]

is it harmful to let the engine idle like crappy? it feels horrible

[healtoe86]

we have to reset PCM what is that and how do we set the pins sorry im pretty much new to all this






7. Reassembly is the reverse of removal. I suggest resetting the PCM while doing this, so the EGR can readjust after you start it.

8. You may want to follow the Manual's suggestion of measuring the resistance of the pins, but my car runs ten times better now, and I have no stalling issues anymore.

[SoonP5ismine]

we have to reset PCM what is that and how do we set the pins sorry im pretty much new to all this






7. Reassembly is the reverse of removal. I suggest resetting the PCM while doing this, so the EGR can readjust after you start it.

8. You may want to follow the Manual's suggestion of measuring the resistance of the pins, but my car runs ten times better now, and I have no stalling issues anymore.

u dont even have to go this crazy. before u start working u should remove battery and press the brake do discharge any capacitors in the ecu. (it will also help u get your arm in there to turn the wrench) check engine light will go out within a few starts if your egr valve moves free after u reassemble.

[red95_240sx]

does anyone's car chokes real bad to where it bogs down, and then jumps back up while at the same time accelerating by itself?

[SoonP5ismine]

does anyone's car chokes real bad to where it bogs down, and then jumps back up while at the same time accelerating by itself? yes that was happening among other things when my egr valev crapped out. the rpms would not stay the same they kept dropping when engine was hot and when cold they were too high.

[Kansei]

yes that was happening among other things when my egr valev crapped out. the rpms would not stay the same they kept dropping when engine was hot and when cold they were too high.

yup, I'm back at that stage.. I just cleaned my EGR 1k miles ago!! (argh)

maybe it's time to try out the new "revised unit". I'm sick of tearing apart my car in the middle of winter just to clean that valve haha

[SoonP5ismine]

yup, I'm back at that stage.. I just cleaned my EGR 1k miles ago!! (argh)

maybe it's time to try out the new "revised unit". I'm sick of tearing apart my car in the middle of winter just to clean that valve haha
ja i have the new one. did you see my post few pages back? i have info on where i got it cheap there.

[Kansei]

nah, at some point I got unsubscribed from the thread (probably when I deleted over 4k thread subscriptions). I'll go hunt down the post.

[SoonP5ismine]

nah, at some point I got unsubscribed from the thread (probably when I deleted over 4k thread subscriptions). I'll go hunt down the post. ya by buying and putting it in myself i saved like 300$ im thinking.

[chuyler1]

I gotta replace the battery in the P5. I might go ahead and attempt to clean all this stuff while I'm at it. Any words of wisdom? Heading out to get a state inspection now...before I f*ck anything up. Then as long as it isn't too cold out I'll get started on this...or maybe I should wait. I've got new spark plugs too. Yeah, I think I'll wait.

[SoonP5ismine]

I gotta replace the battery in the P5. I might go ahead and attempt to clean all this stuff while I'm at it. Any words of wisdom? Heading out to get a state inspection now...before I f*ck anything up. Then as long as it isn't too cold out I'll get started on this...or maybe I should wait. I've got new spark plugs too. Yeah, I think I'll wait.
its not a comfortable thing to replace the egr valve so i would wait till you get check engine light and your engine idles like shit before doing anything to it.

[chuyler1]

Yeah...but gas mileage has been down lately. I used to get 29-31 and the last few times I checked it was 26-28. I'll wait until the NEPOC guys can guide me through it.

[SoonP5ismine]

Yeah...but gas mileage has been down lately. I used to get 29-31 and the last few times I checked it was 26-28. I'll wait until the NEPOC guys can guide me through it.
gas milage is lower in winter anyway. they add ethanol to gas in winter plus u are running more accessories like lights and heat in winter. i wouldnt touch it. also check your airfilter. it gets clogged in winter from the salt on the ground and sand they spread. my egr went at 50200 miles approx. after my warranty was over. so it sucked that i had to fix it myself.

[chuyler1]

I'm at 76K and haven't touched it. I just replaced plugs, air filter, and installed a new battery today. I'll see how that goes. Mileage has been down for the past 3-6 months so perhaps it is winter but I'm thinking it is more likely my driving.

[SoonP5ismine]

I'm at 76K and haven't touched it. I just replaced plugs, air filter, and installed a new battery today. I'll see how that goes. Mileage has been down for the past 3-6 months so perhaps it is winter but I'm thinking it is more likely my driving.
did u gap the plugs correctly? i cant remember what the gap supposed to be but the plugs are not usually gapped from the store. i got platinums in my car last summer and i had to gap them.

[kc3635]

cleaned the EGR. works great now. BIG ups to vega

[SoonP5ismine]

cleaned the EGR. works great now. BIG ups to vega
hehe if it craps out soon make sure u post back. mine only lasted 1200 miles after i cleaned it.

[Kansei]

I really it's an issue where once you clean it with the really harsh cleaning chemicals it needs to be cleaned ALL the time. I think I'll just start cleaning it every time I change my oil, and if I get sick of it I'll just buy the revised part and call it a day.

[chuyler1]

did u gap the plugs correctly? i cant remember what the gap supposed to be but the plugs are not usually gapped from the store. i got platinums in my car last summer and i had to gap them.
I checked the gap against the ones I pulled out and they were pretty close to the same.

[Tasty]

Don't check against old gap, the electrodes wear down and it won't be accurate. Correct gap for our plugs is anywhere from .040 - .043 (1.0-1.1mm)

[Kansei]

Iridium plugs (which he bought) come pre-gapped at 1.1 for our cars and always say "DO NOT GAP" on them.

[ctt 1982]

how many people are running without the egr system? any issues other than a cel?

[chuyler1]

They said .44 on the package...and that checked out. The ones I took out were slightly more but worn out so I assumed they gave me the right ones.

[Pmpkinhead]

Iridium plugs (which he bought) come pre-gapped at 1.1 for our cars and always say "DO NOT GAP" on them.

They say don't regap them because they are fragile on the two pieces (top and bottom electrode) but the MSP gap is quite diff then they come from the maker. You MUST regap them and do it carefully. Don't touch the electrode at all with the tool.

367 b (mp3yellow

[Kansei]

They say don't regap them because they are fragile on the two pieces (top and bottom electrode) but the MSP gap is quite diff then they come from the maker. You MUST regap them and do it carefully. Don't touch the electrode at all with the tool.

367 b (mp3yellow

He has a Protege5 so no worries there.. they're properly gapped.

Plus, I think the "stock" recommended gap for the MSP is still 1.1mm (shrug)

[bazooka joe]

Yeah...but gas mileage has been down lately. I used to get 29-31 and the last few times I checked it was 26-28. I'll wait until the NEPOC guys can guide me through it.

ya bruce is real good at this...just ask his knuckles!!

[Pmpkinhead]

He has a Protege5 so no worries there.. they're properly gapped.

Plus, I think the "stock" recommended gap for the MSP is still 1.1mm (shrug)

Incorrect, The MSP is different. Also, I thought he was running a turbo which could put at the MSP specs.

[Protege__Owner]

Hello fellow members,

I would like to do an EGR valve cleaning for my protege ES, but I am in need of some insight as how to remove the intake pipe to get to the EGR valve? Is there a write-up somewhere on how to remove the intake pipe? Can I remove the EGR valve without removing the intake pipe? If intake pipe must be removed, could someone pls give me some directions on removal? Thank you for everyones time and info.

[SoonP5ismine]

if you have the 3rd gen pro then intake pipe is held in by 2 adjustable clamps and u just loosen them ebough that the pipe comes off on both ends. i dont actually take off the pipe completely just the 2 big clamps. the small oil tube i leave connected and just move the whole intake pipe to the side and place it on top of the valve cover. i do however recommane taking the battery out to do the egr valve as it will give you more room to stick your arm in there. BTW in the future you should list your car year when asking questions to allow more exact replies.

Hello fellow members,

I would like to do an EGR valve cleaning for my protege ES, but I am in need of some insight as how to remove the intake pipe to get to the EGR valve? Is there a write-up somewhere on how to remove the intake pipe? Can I remove the EGR valve without removing the intake pipe? If intake pipe must be removed, could someone pls give me some directions on removal? Thank you for everyones time and info.

[jimmybrite]

I just cleaned mine, def better, it stalled 3 times last week and I got a check engine light, so I bought a obd II code reader, it confirmed what I thought which was the egr restricted flow code.I Since then cleared the code, it still drops down every now and then down to 200 rpms ? but it used to shake the whole car and it would go down to 0 rpm and back up.I guess the ecu is readjusting.

[red95_240sx]

is it safe when this happens?

[jimmybrite]

It can't be good, but it hasn't done it all day today and it stopped vibrating as soon as I ran the car good yesterday!

[red95_240sx]

the exhaust fumes smell horrible

[kc3635]

I just cleaned mine, def better, it stalled 3 times last week and I got a check engine light, so I bought a obd II code reader, it confirmed what I thought which was the egr restricted flow code.I Since then cleared the code, it still drops down every now and then down to 200 rpms ? but it used to shake the whole car and it would go down to 0 rpm and back up.I guess the ecu is readjusting.

I'm in the same boat as you. Its better but not really perfect. It'll drop to 300 every now and then. Is it possible that it wasn't cleaned enough? I've cleaned the IAC as well.

[protegeric]

try upping the idle to an even 1000.

[jimmybrite]

try upping the idle to an even 1000. wtf

oh and it seems to be all fixed now, when I have free time i'll check the idle Solenoid.I would have done it at the same time as my egr, but I couldn't find the proper torx bit

[Kansei]

I'm in the same boat as you. Its better but not really perfect. It'll drop to 300 every now and then. Is it possible that it wasn't cleaned enough? I've cleaned the IAC as well.

Just so you know, the first tick mark on the tachometer is 500rpms.

My car idles around 690rpms when fully warmed up (as reported by my OBDII port)

[jimmybrite]

oh, mine would go below the first tick, so I would really idle low, but I wasn't aware that the first tick was 500

[protegeric]

if u clean ur IAC and EGR, and the car still dies occasionally (like mine) raise the idle to 1000 (i think normal idle is 750 or somethin close). it`s the only thing that i personally know for certain that is an easy fix. i thot someone was saying that their car was still havin some problems after cleaning one or both. no one?


wtf

oh and it seems to be all fixed now, when I have free time i'll check the idle Solenoid.I would have done it at the same time as my egr, but I couldn't find the proper torx bit

[jimmybrite]

I did, butttt for the first 25 miles, but it was still def better, I finished working on my car @ 9 pm sunday and I just went to mickey d's that night.. the next day, my car's like new..

[amsgator]

how do you get the two bolts out if the are facing the throttle body?

[amsgator]

mine is idling around 450 ever since i installed my header. i dont know why...i checked the intake to make sure its on fine and not lose and it is...so if i clean this and it still does it i give up

[mazdaspeed777]

how do you get the two bolts out if the are facing the throttle body?

There not facing the throttle body, they bolt up towards the throttle body.

[amsgator]

so where are the heads?

[Kansei]

the heads are on the underside of the intake manifold, where the EGR valve itself sits.

[amsgator]

ok. and the first tick is 500 rpms you said? mine idles at about the 2nd tick... is that normal? and if so why is it so shaky? it makes my shifter shake pretty bad. wasnt doin it til i put the header on, idk if that would cause it or not

[Kansei]

that's low, and that is why it is so shaky.

my car idled at ~690rpms on the last ct emissions report I have for my car, so that's just above the second tick.

[amsgator]

how can i get a reading of what it idles at? do i need a code reader or what?

well it idles at about the 2nd tick sometimes btwn the 2nd and 3rd.

idk if thats low or not... i dont c why the header would cause the drop though unless somehow the egr valve finally gave in

[Kansei]

yeah to get the actual number you'd need somethin to plug into your OBDII port, that's why I only know from my emissions certification paperwork.

You seem to idle right where I do, and I know that my EGR really needs to be cleaned again.

Hmm it still sounds like you have a vacuum leak somewhere. As someone mentioned earlier, spray some starter fluid (I think that's what they said? don't know where the post is now) around and see if the idle raises to track down a pesky vacuum leak.

[amsgator]

where do u spray it? i've never had to do it before. i am supposed to be cleaning the egr valve today if it doesnt rain. so i'll c if that helps at all. i didnt see the post about the vacuum leak :(

[amsgator]

and will a simple code reader be able to tell me the rpms?

[amsgator]

is there a way to do nething to see where the leak is coming from if there is one?

[AznXstazy]

how important is the oil? i took mine out cause i had a rough idle, but never dipped. when i changed my clutch yesterday i decided to clean it hoping to fix the rough idle. so i cleaned it with brake cleaner and put it back together without oil. now my car jumps in idle when im about to stop and push in the clutch. any thoughts?

[amsgator]

i am cleaning mine today :-\ what kind of oil? i'll oil mine and hope it fixes it.

[Kansei]

how important is the oil? i took mine out cause i had a rough idle, but never dipped. when i changed my clutch yesterday i decided to clean it hoping to fix the rough idle. so i cleaned it with brake cleaner and put it back together without oil. now my car jumps in idle when im about to stop and push in the clutch. any thoughts?

That's what mine started doing last week or so but I didn't do anything with the EGR since december...

[amsgator]

well i found a leak on the 2nd o2 sensor, i seafoamed it again to check for leaks and found that one, fixed it...didn't do anything. i think i may have town mount(s).

i got some pix and videos of what it is doing, so here they are

engine shaking- hard to tell but if you watch the wires and coil packs you can see, its easier to see in person
http://s39.photobucket.com/albums/e159/sockerdood/Car%20Pics/?action=view&current=MOV01093.flv

i dont think the muffler is supposed to shake like this?
http://s39.photobucket.com/albums/e159/sockerdood/Car%20Pics/?action=view&current=MOV01095.flv

and attached pic of passenger side mount and front mount. would the mounts be causing all this hell?? i dont see why the mounts would cause the engine to idle at the 2nd tach and make the shifter and cabin vibrate like hell and also the muffler....?

EDIT: added pictures

[jimmybrite]

Marshmallow Motor mounts will do that for you.

[amsgator]

ok so it's not torn?

dang it if it's not torn mounts WTF is it?!?!?! it's drivng me crazy

[amsgator]

anyone got a how-to for the idle solenoid...heard some ppls popped apart and got screwed....$$$$ ?

[AznXstazy]

nope ur passenger mount is torn. the top piece is not like that. trust me took mine off to fill it cause the bottom was torn. yours is torn. it straight ripped from the top metal to the rubber. a complete separation of the 2. you will see when you pull it out.

EDIT: btw, how many people got CEL after doing this? mine just threw a cell 20 miles after i cleaned it. i think this is wat my CEL is for, but i have not pulled the code for it. i saw some people threw CEL and im hoping this is the problem, cause it should be a easy fix. thanks

[amsgator]

i thought it mite have been. anyone else agree the side is torn? not sure what a good one looks like....

[Kansei]

That's what mine looked like (on both sides of that mount), and I know that is what Rob's (liquid_ag) looked like too from what he told me. I think that is as torn as those mounts can get, there's no way in hell you could ever tear the big chunk of rubber at the bottom of the mount.

[amsgator]

but aren't those made so they dont connect at the top?

SLS only has one side mount dont they...is it passenger side? would that cause the extra vibration or is it something else? maybe it's just the header doing it? it's not like the car is about to rattle apart, i can just feel it in the floorboard now and the shifter vibrates slightly more.

[amsgator]

for the MAF cleaning, can i just spray the MAF cleaner through the grating on the MAF that keeps things from getting sucked into it (i guess if u didnt have a filter on?) or does it come apart to get to the part that needs to be sprayed and cleaned?

[amsgator]

does the front mount look buggered too Kansei?

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=105231
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=105230

eric said it looks like it had been pulled back 3/4 of the way (the nut) and is no longer sitting in the middle. :-\

[red95_240sx]

cant help on those mounts, besides the fact i agree about the bolt not being centered.

dont clean the MAF with any fluids, wipe it dry.

[Dr.Sound]

why not clean the MAF with MAF cleaner?
it will desolve all the buildup the MAF has accumulated.

they make MAF cleaner for a reason.
u'll be surprized how dirty it is.

[amsgator]

cant help on those mounts, besides the fact i agree about the bolt not being centered.

dont clean the MAF with any fluids, wipe it dry.

if you wipe it with anything it will damage it... you can use either electronics cleaner or MAF cleaner, i suggest the MAF cleaner.... you dont want to touch the lil thing hanging or it will damage it and you will need a new one....180 bux from onlinemazdaparts.com :-\

[Dr.Sound]

^ exactly

[amsgator]

cleaned my MAF sensor today, went ahead and did it. hope i covered everything in the how-to. will a mod please move it to the how-to section if it hasnt already been moved. thanks!

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3097578#post3097578

[Protege__Owner]

if u clean ur IAC and EGR, and the car still dies occasionally (like mine) raise the idle to 1000 (i think normal idle is 750 or somethin close). it`s the only thing that i personally know for certain that is an easy fix. i thot someone was saying that their car was still havin some problems after cleaning one or both. no one?


Sorry if this sounds dumb, but how do you raise the idle?

[amsgator]

Sorry if this sounds dumb, but how do you raise the idle?

if u have a 3rd gen u cant raise it, the ECU does it automatically

[Protege__Owner]

if u have a 3rd gen u cant raise it, the ECU does it automatically

Thanks for the info, I do have the 3rd Gen Protege. Something less that I would need to worry about. Thanks.

[Protege__Owner]

I'll take some photos tomorrow morning, if still needed. You going to need a special torx wrench to take the valve out. Clean the plunger and the housing.

check out the pics. In my case, when i removed the solenoid valve, the plunger got stock to the throttle body. There was carbon build up.


For those who have removed the IAC motor to clean the IAC Plunger, Do you remember whether or not there was an O-ring between the IAC motor and throttle body? I've removed my IAC to clean it, but when I was putting it back together, I didn't notice that there was an O-ring there. Wasn't sure if I dropped it while I pulled the IAC from the throttle body or there wasn't one there to begin with? Thank you.

[amsgator]

Thanks for the info, I do have the 3rd Gen Protege. Something less that I would need to worry about. Thanks.

if it's too low you can try resetting the ECU and hope it sets it a lil higher :-\

[qikslvr2006]

sub sub im going to do this cause my 02 protege has 146000 miles and has been doing it for a while. anyone know if theres a how to on change the timing belt and stuff lol. and if you do should you change the tensioner?

[red95_240sx]

using alcohal on the sensors is not good for sure its how i ruined mine. so were not suppose to touch, just spray it?

i think that MAF cleaner just hit the shelves, or ive never noticed it. bad idle can be because of vac. leaks too. cleaning the EGR is not exactly killing it. i think its more of the ECU reset than the actual cleaning. sometimes i get a better idle with my OEM air intake.

[Kansei]

I think the MAF cleaner is just "electronics cleaner"

[amsgator]

I think the MAF cleaner is just "electronics cleaner"

maybe..but its not a chance i am willing to take :) it's only a dollar more

[poppingseagull]

Info for anyone that cares...I was getting the P0401 code and tried cleaning the EGR valve with carbon cleaner. I let it soak and repeated like 5 times but the spring was very difficult to move even with pliers. I ended up buying a new EGR valve since the other one was irreparably stuck. It was $110 at the dealership but at least I have no more check engine light.

[red95_240sx]

i need to know what exactly is going on when a leak pops up. i get a horrible smelling carbon? smoke, the car bogs down, and its annoying. i know its between the EGR and the MAF leaking somewhere. is this harmful in the long run to the engine?

I unplugged the EGR for a while and it still stumbled so its probly a leak elsewhere.

[red95_240sx]

need to no if this is good or not...

[SoonP5ismine]

Yes i think also that is the best way to go and not have amymore headaches. I did the same after i cleaned mine just to have it fuck up 1200 miles later.
Info for anyone that cares...I was getting the P0401 code and tried cleaning the EGR valve with carbon cleaner. I let it soak and repeated like 5 times but the spring was very difficult to move even with pliers. I ended up buying a new EGR valve since the other one was irreparably stuck. It was $110 at the dealership but at least I have no more check engine light.

[amsgator]

just soaking it might not work. gotta scrub w/ a wire brush or something

[MakeMeGoFast]

Well just tried this. Couldnt get 2 of the screws off. So no clean egr for me:(

[red95_240sx]

i think its best to keep the carbon dry, and scrub it comes off alot easier than while its wet.

find a nice 10mm socket a fat handle, and push up on ur tippie toes.

[kyle's protege5]

why clean yours when you can just buy mine with 5000 miles on it? :)

[red95_240sx]

why bother to clean...

[kc3635]

I got mine cleaned and it just started to act up after a k milage. Has anyone found that buying a new one is a permanent solution, cause it'll beat cleaning it every k.

[paperthin]

Hello everyone;

I am a newbie here posting but I do a lot of reading in this forum. I do enough to have 230,000kms on my 98 protege. I feel proud to keep it out of the dealerships hands or any other mechanic for that matter. I have had the random cylinder misfire code two over the past year. I want to go ahead and clean my EGR because it has never been done to date. I also am get some rough idling now and when I am at a stop light. Coincidently two weeks ago i passed my emissions just before i starting getting this rough idle.

I do have a couple of questions:
1) Is that my EGR in the first picture. I am pretty sure it is.
2) can I reuse the gasket after I pull it off?
3) I would rather not use a liquid cleaner but a simple wire brush bit. Is this ok?
4) Can i take the black plastic air intake pipe off of the aluminum casting (throttle body?) without any ramifications? This will give me much better access.I do know that anytime I do something I am scraping knuckles so i need the room.

I always want to be prepared first with knowledge before i touch the car. I learned how to change my thermostat thanks to this site and I think it would be similar in time and challenge. I would appreciate some input.

Thanks.

[SoonP5ismine]

my newone has about 20k on it now and no problems. it really does pay for itself in the time and agrevation you have with cleaning the old one.

I got mine cleaned and it just started to act up after a k milage. Has anyone found that buying a new one is a permanent solution, cause it'll beat cleaning it every k.

[SoonP5ismine]

it looks like you have a 2nd gen and i really dont know much about 2ndgen as i only had first gen and 3rd. but i can tell you that my first gen had 250k miles without doing egr valve so it may not be it for you. my first gen had some problem with carbon build up where i had to get top engine cleaner from mazda and have it slowly sucked up into the intake manifiold thru a vacuum hose to clean it. not sure if this is your problems but im giving you some ideas. wire brush should be fine as long as you dont grind off any extra metal on the egr piston shaft as that will only have more exhaust blow by the cracks. when i replaced my egr valve on 3rd gen i removed thestrut bar, intake hose and battery to have more room. removing the battery will also reset your ecu and check engine light so its recommended.
Hello everyone;

I am a newbie here posting but I do a lot of reading in this forum. I do enough to have 230,000kms on my 98 protege. I feel proud to keep it out of the dealerships hands or any other mechanic for that matter. I have had the random cylinder misfire code two over the past year. I want to go ahead and clean my EGR because it has never been done to date. I also am get some rough idling now and when I am at a stop light. Coincidently two weeks ago i passed my emissions just before i starting getting this rough idle.

I do have a couple of questions:
1) Is that my EGR in the first picture. I am pretty sure it is.
2) can I reuse the gasket after I pull it off?
3) I would rather not use a liquid cleaner but a simple wire brush bit. Is this ok?
4) Can i take the black plastic air intake pipe off of the aluminum casting (throttle body?) without any ramifications? This will give me much better access.I do know that anytime I do something I am scraping knuckles so i need the room.

I always want to be prepared first with knowledge before i touch the car. I learned how to change my thermostat thanks to this site and I think it would be similar in time and challenge. I would appreciate some input.

Thanks.

[SoonP5ismine]

im not saying this to be an asshole but you should go into the user control panel and fill out some info about your car and make a signature so it will be easier for people to help you knowing what exactly is the car you have.

Hello everyone;
I am a newbie here posting but I do a lot of reading in this forum.

[red95_240sx]

it looks like you have a 2nd gen and i really dont know much about 2ndgen as i only had first gen and 3rd. but i can tell you that my first gen had 250k miles without doing egr valve so it may not be it for you. my first gen had some problem with carbon build up where i had to get top engine cleaner from mazda and have it slowly sucked up into the intake manifiold thru a vacuum hose to clean it. not sure if this is your problems but im giving you some ideas. wire brush should be fine as long as you dont grind off any extra metal on the egr piston shaft as that will only have more exhaust blow by the cracks. when i replaced my egr valve on 3rd gen i removed thestrut bar, intake hose and battery to have more room. removing the battery will also reset your ecu and check engine light so its recommended.


Yep resetting the ECU is basiclly the main thing.

[gsmooth]

easier said than done...I was taking my time since its a nice day...not in a hurry either....and I was trying to get to the EGR valve any which way I could

finally after convincing myself taking the battery out would be the best I got to the 12mm bolts....but guess what.....I couldn't get the one closest to the mount out!!!

after spending countless hours changing the oil, the plugs, the cables including the 2 extensions from the ignition coils and taking apart the intake, battery and IAC(cleaned the IAC)....

put it all back and NOTHING...still idles really rough

I'm driving a 2002 protege 5 with 230 k's on it.

The EGR has already been replaced...the 02 sensors were both replaced @ 50 k's under warranty...the ignition coils were also replaced at about 160 k's


Not sure what to do
Any suggestions?

[amsgator]

what plugs are u using? when replaced last? check the electrodes to see if they are pitted or corroded. tried using seafoam in the crankcase to clean out the engine and clean the lifters? also run seafoam through your gas and brake booster to clean the intake mani and the fuel injectors. um...other than that i'm not sure.

[gsmooth]

what plugs are u using? when replaced last? check the electrodes to see if they are pitted or corroded. tried using seafoam in the crankcase to clean out the engine and clean the lifters? also run seafoam through your gas and brake booster to clean the intake mani and the fuel injectors. um...other than that i'm not sure.



I'm using NGK G-power plugs

The engine (i forgot to mention) doesn't even have 80 k's on it yet...it had 16 k's when it was installed.

Seafoam eh?

noobie time! where do I find the gas and brake booster?
Its a cold air intake and the filter is fine...I dumped a fuel injector cleaner and some high octane gas in the tank after the trouble started.

It doesn't always want to start on the first try...sometimes it takes a 2nd or 3rd. I have to give it gas to, or it wont start.

My guess is the actual ignition coils.

Other than that....I think I may have to retry my luck with the EGR cleaning again, just have the right keys this time!

anybody?

[red95_240sx]

may be a vac. leak

[gsmooth]

A friend of mine who is a mechanic told me it could be the coolant sensor......but I dont know if that would explain the crazy bouncing idle. He said it could be the coolant sensor for when I start it....but I think the EGR cleaning will help.

Doing that today!


It always wants to choke or stall when I'm stopped at a light or stop sign or wherever. My gas mileage is the worse its ever been.

[SoonP5ismine]

ya that sounds like a egr and i hope cleaning it will halp you for a long time as it only helped me for 1000 miles or so

A friend of mine who is a mechanic told me it could be the coolant sensor......but I dont know if that would explain the crazy bouncing idle. He said it could be the coolant sensor for when I start it....but I think the EGR cleaning will help.

Doing that today!


It always wants to choke or stall when I'm stopped at a light or stop sign or wherever. My gas mileage is the worse its ever been.

[gsmooth]

RUNS LIKE NEW!!!!!!!!!

THANKS VEGA


sweeeeeeeeeeeeeet post


CEL is still on but I'm guessing after a reset and a few km's it'll disappear...if not.......plan B....hook it up to a computer



=D

[neit_jnf]

my egr started giving me problems again after about 6k miles so i just bought a new one for $115 shipped with gasket included from Malloy Mazda

[SoonP5ismine]

I did the same last year after mine started to crap out again after 1000 miles after i cleaned it. And i have no problems since.
my egr started giving me problems again after about 6k miles so i just bought a new one for $115 shipped with gasket included from Malloy Mazda

[mp5acp]

Im not sure if this was asked already but if i could be given a mulligan i would appriciate it, has anyone had issues with restarting the car after stalling, my car seems to not want to start right after is stalls out, it takes about 5 min

[riZen]

definitely not worth cleaning, I did it once and was ok temporarily for about a week. I bought a new valve from OnlineMazdaParts, and installed myself no problems since 8 months later.

[cybrjoe]

The EGR valve have warranty for 7 years now. Mazda redesign the valve. The new one is better. Call your dealer for more information. So if your car is a 2001 or more, the Valve will be free to change it.

[kyle's protege5]

or....just take the stupid ass thing out and put a plate over the hole. Benifits you say?

1. no more exhaust going back into your intake
2. better performance
3. no soot all over in your intake
4. car wont run like shit when the egr fails

we can all thank GM for this lovely idea.

"I know, lets take some exhaust and put it back into the intake to burn it again, so it will make the exhaust coming out the tail pipe slightly cleaner, so we can meet the governments emmisions regulations. Sure there is little to no oxygen content in the exhaust, so it will lower the amount of oxygen in the cylinders so it will run richer, which makes more soot, that goes back in to the intake, which makes more soot, which goes back into the intake........."

fabulous idea.

[bazooka joe]

i cleaned mine about 15k miles ago, runs great! i also cleaned the IAC as well and i think that was a problem as well!

[hitjoey]

My '03 ES (60,000 miles) was have a idling problem and it turned out to be a leak in the upper intake gasket. It helped, but I still have a small idling issue, seems to be the egr. I'm going to clean it tomorrow.

[hitjoey]

I cleaned the egr and the rough idle is still there, but not near as bad.

[amsgator]

changed ur plugs lately?

[hitjoey]

I changed the plugs about two months ago.

[kc3635]

I got a replacement 'revised' egr in my car and it still runs like shit. Sometimes, the RPMs drop to a point where the car turns off..

[red95_240sx]

Yeah it sux when it cuts off. Some of u guys probly have vac. leaks, dont forget those.

[kyle's protege5]

I got a replacement 'revised' egr in my car and it still runs like shit. Sometimes, the RPMs drop to a point where the car turns off..
(deadhorse
umm.....just take the stupid useless ass things out, like I said before!

[red95_240sx]

Or unplugging it???

[kyle's protege5]

Or unplugging it???

That would work too. You may get a cel, but who gives a shit? Better gas mileage, better performance, no soot in intake, cleaner intake valves. Sounds better to me.