My car is toast. What should I do?

[peepsalot]

OK, I just did the vtcs removal/intake manifold porting mod on my car, finished it last night. I also installed outlaw engineering spacers and did the TB coolant bypass mod. I took the car to work this morning and everything seemed fine. On the way home today it dies on the highway.

I get it off the highway and the temperature gauge is through the roof. I check the radiator and it is full of water, and not even steaming. If I put the keys in the ignition and turn to on, I see abs light, oil can, and e-brake lights(even when ebrake is off). No CEL though. The fans won't turn on either. The voltage was getting low by the time I checked, but I think that is just from having the heater and lights on for a couple minutes.
So what the hell, is my engine blown or what? Is there some connector I neglected to put on securely that caused this. I looked it over and did not see anything obvious.

I don't know what to do. I have it sitting in my apt complex parking lot right now. I have a very bad feeling about this. Should I just bite the bullet and take it into the dealer, with my totally fucked warranty? Would it be better to take it to another shop? Is there any possibility it is a loose connection somewhere that is a simple fix? oh fuck oh fuck oh fuck.(nervous)

[mp5jeff]

your brakes aren't sticking are they? seeing how your eblight etc came on, maybe they are dragin bad and overheating engine?

[azian6er]

e brake is only in the rear though, i doubt it would overheat the engine.

You are scaring me though man. My IM is off and i just removed the plates as well. I hope i dont have as much of a problem as you do.

I say reset the ecu, then see whats up.

-bryan

[peepsalot]

I don't think they were sticking, the brakes felt fine. How can you tell? How would that overheat my engine?

[mp5jeff]

if he is on the highway and the back brakes are dragin pretty bad, thats enough to overheat the engine im sure

[mp5jeff]

because you are making the engine work alot harder then stock.

[azian6er]

reset the ecu man. then come back and post what happened if anything.

-bryan

[peepsalot]

well, it happened about an hour ago, but brakes are ambient temerature now. I just unhooked the ground, waiting for a whlie.

[peepsalot]

I was on the highway, and I got on it a little just to test out my latest mod, and then the engine just quits all the sudden. I think my engine is blown or something, I am worried that something got into it while I was working on it, and just hosed one of my cylinders or something. It still cranks, and I don't see any leaking fluids though. I checked my oil level and it actually looked very high, above the full line.

[BlkZoomZoom]

Too high oil level is not a good sign. I suggest draining the oil and see what comes out if it doesn't start after the ecu re-set.

If your check engine light doesn't come on with the key on you have an electrical problem, not a mechanical. Check all fuses and relays.

[peepsalot]

Hooked the battery back up after a few minutes, and same thing. Temperature gauge is topped out. Could it be wrong? I doesn't seem very hot in the engine bay at all. Is this some kind of electrical problem?

[peepsalot]

All fuses are fine. There are two empty spots, but I'm assuming this is normal, since I never touched the fuses before.

[peepsalot]

Not sure how to check a relay though.

[peepsalot]

How long does it usually take for the ecu to reset after unhooking the ground?

[strongbear0]

Yes. It is an electrical problem, but what we don't know because you did all of the disconnecting. You need to check all the fuses and relays in the car and under the hood. Make sure there are no wires melting on the intake mani and make sure all of your fuel connections are right on the mani. Did you hear anything when it shut down? Detonation? Anything? It's kind of hard to diagnose a problem if you don't have anymore info than, It died.

[BlkZoomZoom]

do you have a check engine light with the key on?

Does the engine run? or is the temp. gauge peg while key on?

[BlkZoomZoom]

wow someone confirming with me that I'm right....how reassuring.

[azian6er]

do you depress the brake pedal when restting the ecu? just unhook the ground, then go depress the brake pedal all the way for about 10 secs then let off and hook the negative back up. That is restting the ecu. If you just unhook the negative, you need to let itsit for about 30 minutes to rest the ecu i believe.

-Bryan

ps if your temp gaue is topping out when you start your car cold then it is most definately an electrical problem

[peepsalot]

I haven't upped the boost or done any other power altering modifications to my car.

Sorry, I don't have much more info on how it died. The engine just cut, and the lights I described came on. I didn't hear any pinging, but then again I wasn't listening for it.

[BlkZoomZoom]

If the pcm "thinks" the ect temp. is too high it will change timing and fuel so much it may be impossible to start.

I would check for shortage of the ect wiring.

[BlkZoomZoom]

and answer my mf question.

[azian6er]

maybe an electrical connector came loose somewhere?

reset the ecu the way I told you and see if the problem is still the same.

-bryan

[strongbear0]

If it were electrickle why would the car oof worked fine then cut

if it were electrickal it would of been like that the first time he turned it on not, while driving?

Please explaine how you feel its electrickle?

Please learn how to spell before you talk to me. I have a problem talking with idiots.

And you are doing no good for the guy by telling him his motor is dead. You obviously don't know what you are talking about. Motors usually make a noise when they blow they don't usually go quietly. A rod cutting loose at 5k rps makes a hell of a noise.

The reason I said it was electrical is because he said that his temp gauge was pegged when the key was on. There is no way the engine can be that hot without the engine running. Now please stop trying to question me and do not jack the mans thread.

[azian6er]

I still dont see how the car would of started the first time if this were the case, all variables being the same, it should perform the same.

Why would the car start then and not now?

possible loose connection at a connector somewhere.


did you mess with the fuel rail at all when you took it out? The fuel injector clips all still connected?

-B

[boostisgood]

First, if you did not hear a BANG, feel a BANG, or see internals flying from underneith your car, the engine is not toasted. Please do not listen to fools on this forum who apparently were kicked off before and now are back to annoy the fuck outta us again.

Second, this very well seems to be an electical issue. but also tied into your coolant bypass mod. I would suggest going back, and putting the car back to stock, and go from there.

[azian6er]

also there may be more thain one problem at hand (with such a mod being done there are plenty of variables)

IF IT WERE SIMPLY ELECTRICKLE, WHY WOULD IT START, RUN, & THEN CUT OUT. IT WOULD OF DONE THE SAME THING THE FIRST TIME HE TURNED THE KEY

IF NOT Please explain HOW its possible
dude, do you even read others' posts?

read my last post.

-B

[mp5jeff]

electrical

[strongbear0]

First, if you did not hear a BANG, feel a BANG, or see internals flying from underneith your car, the engine is not toasted. Please do not listen to fools on this forum who apparently were kicked off before and now are back to annoy the fuck outta us again.

Second, this very well seems to be an electical issue. but also tied into your coolant bypass mod. I would suggest going back, and putting the car back to stock, and go from there.

Listen to boostisgood, retrace your steps and start over. Check injector connections, spark plug connections, and any other connection you may have messed with. And please don't listen to fools like IM STILL HERE.

[BlkZoomZoom]

first off - electrical-

If he didn't place the harness correctly, or didn't snap a connector correctly shit happens.

[boostisgood]

IM STILL HERE, I ran my car for 15 miles after I twisted my #3 rod, AND KILLED A HONDA CIVIC WHILE AT IT. So with a blown engine, you CAN STILL DRIVE THE CAR.

That is besides the point, this is NOT a case of a blown engine, there is nothing here that this guy described that would say "blown engine". This is something that the PCM did not like, and is not allowing the car to start. IF a car is in the red, it will shut down, and will not restart until the car cools down. I did this last winter trying to get up my hill on my Potenzas. The car died (was overheating) and in 20 minutes restarted with NO ISSUES.

Here seems to be something electical (but tied to the cooling system) that is showing an overheat and not allowing the car to start.

Now, please dont let this guys thread turn into a flamewar on who is smarter/better mechanic because FIRST YOU WILL LOSE, and second this guy needs help. You wanna go that route, start something in flamewars, and see if I post.

[strongbear0]

Listen Ass Hole It Can Make Noise But A Broken Rod Aint The Only Variable Of A Blown Engine


As For The Idiot Shit, I Dont Care About My Spelling, I Aint In School. If You Want To Fuck With Me Bring It On Vaginal Wart, Im Ready And Willing

As You Can See "im Still Here", You Fucking Puke

Move the fuck back you just got (jacked)

[peepsalot]

Sorry, I went to reset the ECU properly this time. I'm back, same results.

BlkZoomZoom: OK, the lights I see are ABS, e-brake, and oil pressure(i called it oil can originally, but just figured out the correct terminology). NO CEL

The temp gauge is pegged the second I slide the key in. It was cranking when I first pulled over, but now it does not crank at all.

Honestly there could have been a pop or something when it died, but I can't remember. If there was something, it wasn't terribly loud.

Sorry if I missed a question, I'm having trouble keeping track of all the posts.

Oh, and IM_STILL_HERE has been IGNORED

[mp5jeff]

engines smell like "toast" when they are blown? news to me...wonder if they taste like toast also?

[mp5jeff]

oh yea, i ran 13s at the track with a shattered piston IM_STILL_HERE...and i have proof, as in timeslips, people at teh track, and pics of a shattered piston..also a vid of a shitload of smoke coming out behind my car when i was going down the track.

[peepsalot]

Everyone please ignore the troll, or take it somewhere else. Thank you for the help so far.

[BlkZoomZoom]

If you are sure you have checked all fuses, underhood and that pesky 10amp fuse under the dash. I say bring it to the dealer. Mention nothing about your throttlebody and intake spacers. Ask only for diagnois, let them deal with it.

[mp5jeff]

agreed peeps..but it def sounds like electrical problem imo.

[boostisgood]

This is the last time I will acknowledge this person. I have posted for a BAN on your IP in the staff only section. People like you need to not be on the forums, as you do nothing to actually contribute, but will do everything to bring down a great forum community.

As far as what I did or didnt do with my car, its all up to you to decide. Like I said, I TWISTED A ROD, not put it through the block. Ask anyone here who has some sense of mechanical skills, and they will teill you, a car will run like that.

[strongbear0]

DUDE Im ALL FOR YOU GETTING A QUICK FIX OUT OF THIS

IM BEING REALISTIC

I AINT SAID "ITS A BLOW ENGINE

I SAID SMELL IT TO SEE IF IT SMELLS LIKE TOAST< BECAUSE THATS WHAT A BURNT ENGINE SMELLS LIKE (FOR SOME REASURANCE)

AND TO SWITCH BACK HIS COOLANT MOD (AS THIS MAY BE A OVERHEATING ISHUE)

SO TO THESE ASS HOLES LOOKING SOR SHIT, FUCK YOURSELVS!

IM STILL HERE: "It sound like you blew your block"

Now you can (stfu) and (gtfo) cause you are not wanted. If you are this annoying on line you must be a total looser in person. I really feel sorry for your parents, it's a shame to waste a brain on a POS like you.

[boostisgood]

Its MAtty P the assclown, and Ban has been adressed already.

[BlkZoomZoom]

note- You have to visually check all the fuses, remove them and inspect them.

[IM_STILL_HERE]

Hi, I'm an asshat.

[gboromsp]

It sounds eletrical to me to. I'm not sure what to tell you in this situation, i'd take the spacer off, and undo the coolant bypass mod, and take it to the dealer.


IM STILL HERE, you don't need to be here. No one here wants to hear your BS.



DONT YOU ReAD THE NAME IM STILL HERE

BANED PLENTY OF TIMES< BUT IM STILL HERE!

ass munches ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha

[mspdfreak]

It's a short somewhere. This would explain all your problems. It started, ran awhile, then died.

[IM_STILL_HERE]

Hi, I'm an asshat

[peepsalot]

If you are sure you have checked all fuses, underhood and that pesky 10amp fuse under the dash. I say bring it to the dealer. Mention nothing about your throttlebody and intake spacers. Ask only for diagnois, let them deal with it.
I checked all the fuses in that main box under the hood. Where is this one under the dash, and what is that for?

I think it might be kinda obvious about the spacers being on there though. I was thinking honesty might be the best way to go, so they have a better idea of what could have caused the problem, but maybe I won't tell them. Taking them off again would be a major pain in the ass for me.

You said the oil level being high is bad, and I am getting the oil pressure light. You still don't think there is a mechanical issue here? Last time I filled it, it was barely over the fill line, but now it seems to be more than just over. I would do an oil change and see if there is anything in the oil, but I don't have enough oil to fill it again.

[gboromsp]

Not even worth my time!!!




ITS FUNNY HOW YOUR STUPID ASS HAS THE NERVE TO TALK SHIT TO ME< THEN SUGEST, WHAT I SUGESTED IN MY FIRST POST A HALF A HOURE AGO


JACKASS, you idiot

[IM_STILL_HERE]

Hi, I'm an asshat.

[IM_STILL_HERE]

Hi, I'm an asshat

[gboromsp]

I don't know about the oil level. I don't think your problem is there. It sounds electrical because of what the temp guage is doing.




I checked all the fuses in that main box under the hood. Where is this one under the dash, and what is that for?

I think it might be kinda obvious about the spacers being on there though. I was thinking honesty might be the best way to go, so they have a better idea of what could have caused the problem, but maybe I won't tell them. Taking them off again would be a major pain in the ass for me.

You said the oil level being high is bad, and I am getting the oil pressure light. You still don't think there is a mechanical issue here? Last time I filled it, it was barely over the fill line, but now it seems to be more than just over. I would do an oil change and see if there is anything in the oil, but I don't have enough oil to fill it again.

[IM_STILL_HERE]

Hi, I'm an asshat

[IM_STILL_HERE]

I don't know about the oil level. I don't think your problem is there. It sounds electrical because of what the temp guage is doing.


This is so much fun watching all of you squirm like bitches, I mean there could be so many variables, but your close minded head has it down to electrickle, with no explination of how it could of worked before hand and not now. You know nothing at all but have opinions, very interesting, Ive seen blow engines and he described it perfectly, minus the trail of fluid, but things have been broke, with out peircing the skin before. but you continue to talk shit, I love it Its entertaining.

Me I aint looking for trouble, when I see someone on the groung I reach out to help them, but if the hand thats feeding gets biten, I BITE BACK and say mean stuff and cal people names, like you fucking regergetated cum bouble! I started I will ALWAYS FINISH, BITCH.

I love that though you copy my sugestion after dissing it, what a fucking looser, ha ha ha ha haha ha

[BlkZoomZoom]

okay idiot....explain how a mechanical problem keeps the check engine light from coming on with the key on.



If you knew anything about a vehicles electrical system, you wouldn't even be worried about mechanical components at this point.

[IM_STILL_HERE]

Call your dealer, tell them what happened then bring it in to them

DO THAT !

[BlkZoomZoom]

Answer my f'in question.

[mp5jeff]

blk don't bother arguin with him, he is most likely just some little pimply faced, scrawny, still sucking on mommies tit, little teenager that doesn't even have a car...and must come on a internet forum where he is safe behind his computer screen and be an "e-thug"

[spicynamja]

I've just ignored him, he can't spell warranty, or compose a grammatical sentence.

Hey, why are you still here when you said that you are done wasting time with us? Find something better to do, please, for your sake and ours.

[IM_STILL_HERE]

Answer my f'in question.


I never said there wasnt electrickel fuck ups or burnt sensors, but that dont mater At this point

BECAUSE THE CAR GOT STARTED AND WAS RUNNING, THIS MEANS THAT THERE IS MORE WRON THEN THE ELECTRICLE (POTENTIALLY< AS I STAND BY MY ORIGINAL POST< and sugest the uninstalation of the new componants) And look for other variable (including blown engine) as the broblem and not isolate it to that as thhe CAR WAS RUNNING BEFORE IT CUT

IF THIS WERE ALL ELECTRICLE

AND I ASK


HOW THE FUCK DID THE CAR START AND RUN, AND WHY CUT OUT ALL OF A SUDDEN

JACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJ ACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJA CKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJAC KASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACK ASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKA SSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKAS SJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASS JACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJ ACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJA CKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJAC KASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACKASSJACK ASS

[IM_STILL_HERE]

Hi, I'm an asshat

[boostisgood]

First, a car runs off the battery then dies once drained, when the ALT is bad. IS that not electrical issue?

Second, if on of his coil packs blew, the car would stall out and then not restart, Electrical issue.

I will not go further, as I have just proven how a car can start, then die out due to electrical issues. Anyone can feel free to post an OWNED pic if the choose, I choose to ignore the fucktard from now on.

[jeffmsp]

HOW THE FUCK DID THE CAR START AND RUN, AND WHY CUT OUT ALL OF A SUDDEN

The engine is constantly moving, especially if he was hitting gears, i have had the maf wiring fall off, bpv slipping off etc, you would be surprised. Since the check engine light is not coming on even with the keys turned to acc. then I think that would indicate that something electrical is screwed. So even when the car has not been started, as soon as you put in the key the temp goes to max? It must be electrical or something to do with your thermostat if it was mechanical I would think, until you figure it out this whole thread posting war is a waste.

[peepsalot]

okay idiot....explain how a mechanical problem keeps the check engine light from coming on with the key on.



If you knew anything about a vehicles electrical system, you wouldn't even be worried about mechanical components at this point.Calm down man, damn. I agree that there is something wrong with the electrical, but I hadn't ruled out that there could be a mechanical AND electrical problem, one caused by the other possibly. I'm just trying to look at it from every angle. Yeah, I don't know much about the electrical system, that's why I'm on here asking questions. No need to get ugly here.

EDIT: oh, maybe you were talking to the other idiot. Whatever, I have him on my ignore list, i suggest everyone do the same.

[mp5jeff]

If thats what you think your MORE THAIN WELCOME TO COME AND FIND OUT!
i live in florida, ill be glad to meet you anywhere...anytime...how about the gym i used to box at, we can go no gloves, and this way when i beat the shit out of you, i don't get in trouble, ok?

[spicynamja]

Send the videos

[BlkZoomZoom]

It really takes alot for me to get tweaked but this idiot hit it on the nose.

He obviously has no understanding of electrical systems or engine management. He also has no real imagination of what happens in a vehicle while driving. English is apparently no longer his language, he has resorted to some type of gibberish. Yet dispite all of this he believes he is making valid points, which makes me think he is even more stupid than I originally thought.

I'm done, he is ignored.

[NSNMotorsports]

alrighty... there are several connections you need to check.. you definitely have an electrical issue associated with the connectors on the driver side of the block... I messed it up once before and had my temp gauge peg out as well..

Verify that you have the green and white connectors going to the VTCS and VICS solenoids appropriately (see pictures at www.nsnmotorsports.com in the documents section in the spacers install area... ) that should give you some vision of where things should be going as well...

Next, verify that you have a connector going to the TPS on the bottom side of the throttle. Also verify that you have a connector going to the EGR solenoid. And there is also one more connector in that area that I can't remember. Make sure they are all seated properly. Verify that you have the ground wires in that area in place as well.. I'll look through my pictures and my harnesses and double check more for you.. but it is definitely a connectors issue.

I'll try to keep checking on this to see how you are doing.

Thanks,

Steve
sales@nsnmotorsports.com

[BlkZoomZoom]

lol @ peeps....wasn't aimed at you by anymeans.

The reason your vehicle doesn't start is electrical, get that taken care of before worrying about the mechanical aspect.

[BlkZoomZoom]

lol @ nsnmotorsports- None of those sensors will disable the pcm self-check.

[Jhova1012]

hmmm.... try push starting it maybe? If it turns over and fires up then we know for sure that its not mechanical? Could be wrong but hey... doesnt seem like you have many other options.

[eting_pro5]

what's the coolant bypass?

[NSNMotorsports]

lol @ nsnmotorsports- None of those sensors will disable the pcm self-check.


Well since I've had this happen specifically when I've toyed with these sensors I'll beg to differ. I've HAD the same problem before man... that's all I'm saying.

If he's got something crossed it could be easily pulling the PCM down and disabling it as well.. so I'm just making sure he's got the basics taken care of.

Here are some pics of the wiring and connectors in that area... they may be of some use. (and two on the passenger side... the CAM sensor and one other, which is in the picture... the cam sensor is on the valve cover.)

Also keep in mind that if he has a blown fuse or the like that is disabling the PCM that blown fuses don't just happen on their own... there has to be a cause.. and the bypass and the spacers can't do this, so it has to be connectors associated with his installation.

Thanks,

Steve (TurfBurn)

[Jhova1012]

Theres a line that goes through the tb that pumps engine coolant through to keep the plates from freezing shut if you live in a cold place. The mod routes the coolant around the tb instead of through it. In theory cooling the intake charge...

[BlkZoomZoom]

good point to nsn. However very unlikely, a solenoid is a solenoid. I agree to your point on the temp. gauge, however find it highly unlikely to the point of blowing fuses.

Ya never know though....

Sorry 'bout the lol there.....that idiot had me worked up.

[mp5jeff]

he's e-thuggin through pms now, so he should stay outa the thread for a while at least lol.

[peepsalot]

Thanks for the info NSN, I just checked and rechecked those connections though, they are all snug, I unhooked them and snapped them in again to be sure.

I have the old vtcs actuator completely removed, so I capped off the line(the one with the little green cylinder on it) with a bolt that fit snugly in it. There shoudn't be an issue with that, right?

[TurfBurn]

good point to nsn. However very unlikely, a solenoid is a solenoid. I agree to your point on the temp. gauge, however find it highly unlikely to the point of blowing fuses.

Ya never know though....

Sorry 'bout the lol there.....that idiot had me worked up.No problem... There are different impedence solenoids on the car, and if he somehow got a solenoid connection on a sensor (aka the VICS on the TPS) that could cause some issues.... I don't think it'll have blown fuses, but I know it was super strange when my car locked up like that.. (which is additionally odd since I run a standalone... but the ECU controls my gauge cluster). I had to go over all the connectors etc. and then it went away... so it was some kind of fault or short in them that caused the problem. It was after I did my tranny swap.

I'd start out by checking the connectors. then work through all the fuses in the engine bay box... use a fuse tester or a volt meter that does continuity... After you go through all of those, then do the ones on the interior down by the fog light switch.

There is a good chance that since it happened while driving that something came loose and that caused the problem... Just be very thorough and you'll find it..

Damn it.. posting under both my handles accidentally here! :D

EDIT: And looking through the shop manual it does apparently use the majority of those sensors directly for calculating ignition and fuel and so forth....

[peepsalot]

Ok, I just checked the fuses in the cabin. I didn't realize those were there. I saw the lone 20A under the steering wheel and thought that was the only one. Well, guess which one was blown?

That's right, the ECU. Ok, that is great, now if I only could figure out WHY it was blown, I would be all set.

[BlkZoomZoom]

NSn is making good points, however you shouldn't be concerned with these as much as you should be concerned with why the check engine light doesn't come on when the key is turned on.

[BlkZoomZoom]

Now check the connector located on the far left of the engine compartment by the drive belts. That one and the one underneath the intake manifold are the two that I would worry about shorting.

[peepsalot]

Those connectors seem fine. If those are the ones I think you mean...

[A.V.MSP]

which fuse is the ECU fuse that you blew? Ive had the same problem with my car, I put my T3 in drove it for a day and it sputtered and died. It turns over but wont start and I have already put new coils in and that didnt work. What else could it be? I feel for you though man cuz my car has been down for a week. I just got my BB T3/T4 in yesterday and my car doesnt even start so there is no piont in even swapping turbos yet. Didnt mean to thread jack man, sorry. Just need some answers.

[peepsalot]

The fuse is the one that says ECU in the manual. It is in the kick panel fuse box, on the bottom row, second from the left I believe.

[peepsalot]

You replaced coils, and didn't even check the fuses? Damn dude. Put a multimeter/connectivity sensor on those mofo's.

[A.V.MSP]

I have checked the fuses several times and nothing. they all look fine

[peepsalot]

BlkZoomZoom:
ok, the first connector you mentioned is the one that is normally attached to the vtcs actuator?
And the second is the one that clips into a bracket that is screwed onto the IM, to the left of the brake booster line?

The connectors are fine, and the wires look ok, but I can only see about a 1/4" of the wires before they are wrapped in looms anyways.

I guess I'll just take it in to the dealer tomorrow and see if they can figure it out. Hopefully it will just be some wires that need replacing from me manhandling them during IM removal and install. I'm shooting for less than $100, assuming they don't honor my warranty(crosses fingers).

[pdhaudio83]

First, if you did not hear a BANG, feel a BANG, or see internals flying from underneith your car, the engine is not toasted. Please do not listen to fools on this forum who apparently were kicked off before and now are back to annoy the fuck outta us again.

Second, this very well seems to be an electical issue. but also tied into your coolant bypass mod. I would suggest going back, and putting the car back to stock, and go from there.

what about hydrolock :D
;)

[peepsalot]

Stupid hydrolock, I must have accidentally bypassed the coolant into the intake runners. j/k :D

[pdhaudio83]

i would try reversing the coolant mod. see what happens then

[mazpro]

hey, I don't know if this will helpbutthe same thing happened to me last year. I was driving about 30 mph and the car died, it would crank, but wouldn't turn over.I tought it was the fuel pump ( Idon't know sh*t about engines) called a tow truck and the guy said the same thing, the fuel pump.

took it to the dealer, picked it up the next day, they said the problem was a fuse, but couldn't tell me which one it was. paid like $160. so I am guessing the same thing happened to you, change that fuse and double check all the others, hopefully it was the one you found.

good luck, Jose

[BlkZoomZoom]

put a new fuse in.....it could have been a fluke.

[peepsalot]

Ok, took it to the dealer today, and they replaced the fuse, and they said the ground wires(1sty grounding kit) were a bit loose. They tightened them up, replaced the fuse and it runs again. They were very nice about the whole thing even when I told them about the spacers and vtcs removal. The guy was just like "oh, really? you get any good gains?" Haha, I told him I didn't get much chance to test it out really. They wrote it off as a warranty for my broken calloway elbow, which also happened while removing the IM. The whole time I was expecting them to laugh in my face when they found out all the crap I did.

I hope they are right that the ground wires caused it, and this should never happen again. Man, was I stressing though, almost made me think twice about modding my car ever again.

[BlkZoomZoom]

haha. If your afraid of breaking something, you should'nt be doing it.

Told you it was electrical....and I believe I said it was a fuse.... hhhmmm I must do this for a living or something.

[IM_STILL_HERE]

Ok, took it to the dealer today, and they replaced the fuse, and they said the ground wires(1sty grounding kit) were a bit loose. They tightened them up, replaced the fuse and it runs again. They were very nice about the whole thing even when I told them about the spacers and vtcs removal. The guy was just like "oh, really? you get any good gains?" Haha, I told him I didn't get much chance to test it out really. They wrote it off as a warranty for my broken calloway elbow, which also happened while removing the IM. The whole time I was expecting them to laugh in my face when they found out all the crap I did.

I hope they are right that the ground wires caused it, and this should never happen again. Man, was I stressing though, almost made me think twice about modding my car ever again.


Im suprised at the dealers reaction, you dodged a bullet GOOD FOR YOU, In a good way, repaires are always expensive, glad it came at no cost.

My Dealer is a prick, and I would of been fucked, and had to out of pocket it. Glad to seen the motors not burnt.

Also good to see you take it as a lesson though for moding the car ( we have strenth limitations) its ok to mod, but know the cars limits and tune within, you should be fine with a few more add ins!

[IM_STILL_HERE]

hey, I don't know if this will helpbutthe same thing happened to me last year. I was driving about 30 mph and the car died, it would crank, but wouldn't turn over.I tought it was the fuel pump ( Idon't know sh*t about engines) called a tow truck and the guy said the same thing, the fuel pump.

took it to the dealer, picked it up the next day, they said the problem was a fuse, but couldn't tell me which one it was. paid like $160. so I am guessing the same thing happened to you, change that fuse and double check all the others, hopefully it was the one you found.

good luck, Jose


The guys dealer, absorbed the charge (I aint seen that before) but fucking right. they paid!

[IM_STILL_HERE]

haha. If your afraid of breaking something, you should'nt be doing it.

Told you it was electrical....and I believe I said it was a fuse.... hhhmmm I must do this for a living or something.


No he Boxes for a living! he he

[TurfBurn]

That's some impressive dealer service... I wouldn't have bothered telling them about the spacers because they'd probably have a hard time seeing them unless they really looked (which is rare for a dealer). Besides, it doesn't void a warranty to use an aftermarket "gasket" unless that gasket causes a failure.

Hopefully you don't have to deal with it again... but if it happens then you really need to spend some QT figuring out where the short or miswire is.

I'm not surprised by the blown fuse either... but I don't like fixing things without knowing the causes...

I've torn down and rebuilt two trannies (one myself, one with someone), I've pulled and disassembled my motor, and will be re-assembling my new motor myself... I'm rewiring the entire engine bay, I've helped wire engine management and done JandS installations. I also design and test all of the products for NSN Motorsports at this point too... not to mention my miscellaneous gauges and instrumentation and the like.. I've been in most of the systems on these cars. :D My point being is problems will come up, and the cause ends up being what is important.. maybe it's just an engineer thing... but I don't deal well with not knowing what caused something.

Later and congrats on having a car back!

Steve

[peepsalot]

hehe yeah, thank you for teh helpings mistar smarteypants. :D

[IM_STILL_HERE]

haha. If your afraid of breaking something, you should'nt be doing it.

Told you it was electrical....and I believe I said it was a fuse.... hhhmmm I must do this for a living or something.


I wasnt trying to freak you out, sorry if I came off harsh, GLAD TO SEE THE RIDE IS FIXED AT NO EXPENSE

Im suprised at the dealers reaction, you dodged a bullet GOOD FOR YOU, In a good way, repaires are always expensive, glad it came at no cost.

My Dealer is a prick, and I would of been fucked, and had to out of pocket it. Glad to seen the motors not burnt.

Also good to see you take it as a lesson though for moding the car ( we have strenth limitations) its ok to mod, but know the cars limits and tune within, you should be fine with a few more add ins!

[IM__STILL_HERE]

Ok, took it to the dealer today, and they replaced the fuse, and they said the ground wires(1sty grounding kit) were a bit loose. They tightened them up, replaced the fuse and it runs again. They were very nice about the whole thing even when I told them about the spacers and vtcs removal. The guy was just like "oh, really? you get any good gains?" Haha, I told him I didn't get much chance to test it out really. They wrote it off as a warranty for my broken calloway elbow, which also happened while removing the IM. The whole time I was expecting them to laugh in my face when they found out all the crap I did.

I hope they are right that the ground wires caused it, and this should never happen again. Man, was I stressing though, almost made me think twice about modding my car ever again.


HA HAA HA FUCK YOU ALL IM STILL HERE


Banned and Banned but IMS STILL HERE ASS HOLES

2 IDs ONE TO BURN ONE TO LOOK AND BE QUIET< I WILL ALWAYS BE HERE FUCKING LAND OF VAGINAL WARTS!

[IM__STILL_HERE]

I wasnt trying to freak you out, sorry if I came off harsh, GLAD TO SEE THE RIDE IS FIXED AT NO EXPENSE

Im suprised at the dealers reaction, you dodged a bullet GOOD FOR YOU, In a good way, repaires are always expensive, glad it came at no cost.

My Dealer is a prick, and I would of been fucked, and had to out of pocket it. Glad to seen the motors not burnt.

Also good to see you take it as a lesson though for moding the car ( we have strenth limitations) its ok to mod, but know the cars limits and tune within, you should be fine with a few more add ins!


WHAT IS THE POINT OF BANNING ME?

WHY TRY?

IT DOES NOTHING< BUT AMUSE ME!

[IM__STILL_HERE]

(laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh) (laugh)

[peepsalot]

Two clicks and you are ignored. Sorry I can't hear you. Buh-bye.

[IM__STILL_HERE]

hehe yeah, thank you for teh helpings mistar smarteypants. :D


AS, all and all, I aint never said it was or wasnt electric, and I aint never said it was mechanical

MY POIT WAS ITS UNKNOWN AND MORE TESTING WAS NEEDED

ANYTHING WOULD BE AN ASSUPTION, ANS ASSUMPTIONS ARE THE MOTHER OF ALL FUCK UPS.

sO, YOUR WELCOLM

I know mechanical, not electric, THAT IS WHY I ASKED HOW IT WOULD BE POSSIBLE

IT AINT MY FAULT IF ALL OF THESE SLOW ASS HOLES TOOK A HOUR TO ANSWER THE FUCKING QUESTION

[SpicyMchaggis]

boostisgood, "IM__STILL_HERE" is NOT matty.. I'm just clearing his name. This guy, however, has no fucking clue what he is talking about. Matty actually has good mechanical sense. Quite good, matter of fact.

[boostisgood]

Thanks for clearing that up Spicy. :D Matty seems to have calmed down, from what I have seen over at Pclub, but this guy does have somewhat the same attitude that Matty took in his final days here.

Sorry for pissin anyone off with my assumption. :D

[azian6er]

so peepes, any good gains? have you had a chance to test it out?

-B

[TurfBurn]

You guys know that we sell a similar spacer too right? :) Just in case you are interested...

[peepsalot]

so peepes, any good gains? have you had a chance to test it out?

-B
Honestly it is hard for me to tell. I am way cautious of the placebo effect to really say that I can feel a difference. The engine sounds a bit different to me, and there might be a little extra oomph on the top end.
But, I'm still having some a problem that I am working out. It is only noticable before the car is warmed up, but could be affecting overall performance as well. What happens is the rpm's dip a bit before going up whenever I slightly touch the gas. I didn't have a good vacuum seal on the gaskets the first time I tried, so I'm wondering if I still might have a small vacuum leak. I did notice the engine reaches operating temperature much faster now, which means to me that the spacers are doing their job.


You guys know that we sell a similar spacer too right? :) Just in case you are interested...
I know, too bad I got my outlaw engineering ones before yours were developed. I would have gotten yours instead. They look very nice, not to mention better price. :)

[TurfBurn]

I know, too bad I got my outlaw engineering ones before yours were developed. I would have gotten yours instead. They look very nice, not to mention better price. :)
I couldn't resist the opening for a shameless plug... I try to avoid it.. but it was just so huge! :) LOL....

As far as your sealing... did the outlaw ones come with the extra side gaskets? or was it just the phenolic spacer itself... I see on their website that they include some kind of additional gasket or something. We found out that we didn't have to because of the nature of the plastic we use forms a very nice seal...

It's a good technology and Outlaw makes a good product! The bigger effect of them is going to be more about the cooler charge temps than the power. Especially when you are turbo those few degrees can make a big difference toward detonation or not.

[peepsalot]

I couldn't resist the opening for a shameless plug... I try to avoid it.. but it was just so huge! :) LOL....

As far as your sealing... did the outlaw ones come with the extra side gaskets? or was it just the phenolic spacer itself... I see on their website that they include some kind of additional gasket or something. We found out that we didn't have to because of the nature of the plastic we use forms a very nice seal...

It's a good technology and Outlaw makes a good product! The bigger effect of them is going to be more about the cooler charge temps than the power. Especially when you are turbo those few degrees can make a big difference toward detonation or not.
The outlaw kit came with two new paper gaskets that I somehow managed to rip both of. I ended up putting some red gasket sealant silicone stuff directly on both sides of the spacer and sealed it all up. I actually think it is better this way, only two seals to worry about, as opposed to four seals when using a gasket on each side.
I know the spacers are more about cooler charge temps than power gains. I figure they will be most beneficial during long drives. I got them mainly because I beleive it will help mileage on long trips.
Any performance differences I notice right away, I would attribute to the vtcs removal and porting of the manifold.

Just another note: The VTCS removal and porting are actually the first power altering mods I have done on my car. For someone that has done more to their car already, I think the gains would be much more noticable.

[TurfBurn]

Silicone gasket sealer would definitely work as well. Good thinking!

From our testing the big places that the gasket helped in the temp was idling, slow speed, and heavy loading situations (hard acceleration/hills etc). Cruising at highway speed it did still keep the charge cooler, but the difference was less than in some of the other circumstances. But yeah they do help one way or another.

Well good job on all the work. It's a fair bit of an undertaking!

Have a good one,

Steve

[FSDET]

hey peepsalot how hard was it to install the spacers ? im changin the strut tower soon so i thought itll be easier to take out the mani and do the TB spacer. im sure itll be easier with the bar out right ? and how does it fit ?
Turfburn:what the diffrence between urs and outlaws ? other then being cheaper ? thanks

[peepsalot]

It took me forever to swap out my manifolds, but for just putting spacers, you don't need to remove it all the way.
The second time I took it all apart to fix the gaskets, it still took me 4 hours, but that was at night with not so good lighting. Turfburn's how to is very in depth, even describing with length extensions to use, etc. I would recommend you read that. I think removing the tower bar is a must, not to mention that will be the easiest part, lol. I did manage to lose one of my tower bar nuts though. It fell into the engine compartment somewhere near the battery, and never came out again. (doh)

[FSDET]

cool thanks, btw u had 2 manifolds and u ported one ?

[TurfBurn]

hey peepsalot how hard was it to install the spacers ? im changin the strut tower soon so i thought itll be easier to take out the mani and do the TB spacer. im sure itll be easier with the bar out right ? and how does it fit ?
Turfburn:what the diffrence between urs and outlaws ? other then being cheaper ? thanks

If you are really flying you can do a spacer install in about 2 hours or less... but you have to be spot on with every part of the work.

Our spacers differ from Outlaw's in that the fit is far better... from what I've heard and my direct experience there was a bit of filing and mismatch to deal with on the Outlaw spacers. Ours is an exact match of the stock gasket, so it fits perfectly. Also, we use a slightly different material that is more thermally resisitive than the outlaw material, so we can go slightly thinner and still have equal or better thermal performance. This alleviates the need for extra hardware as well. Additionally, the plastic we use is a bit softer so it conforms very nicely and makes a good solid seal without extra gaskets in most cases. Overall we think we offer a better product, at a much better price!

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks,

Steve
sales@nsnmotorsports.com

[peepsalot]

cool thanks, btw u had 2 manifolds and u ported one ?Yeah, I got a spare from someone on the board, in case anyting went wrong. I will probably sell the original one eventually, but that depends if I can work out a small problem I've been having since I swapped them. I might have to go back to stock.