Common problems with the Mazda 3

[blondee_yvr]

I have very little patience when my car has rattles and squeaks including other major/annoying issues. I currently own a 2002 Jetta TDI that has ongoing issues with clogging of the intake manifold primarily because I don't drive much nor do I drive the car hard enough. I was told I should shift at around 3500-4000 rpm and not to be afraid of redlining it every now and then. In 2005 VW of Canada will no longer cover this repair because they say the problem lies with the bad diesel we have in North America.

I am wondering what are some of the common problems that I may experience in getting a Mazda 3? I am really looking for something reliable and that has minimal maintenace. Performance is not a big issue, but reliablity is.

I realize that no car is problem free but when I spend the bucks to buy a new car, I don't expect it to be in the shop every month for repairs, warranty or not.

Thanks

[RonH]

Over 8 months and 2550 miles and no problems. But I must say that I hardly ever have problems with any of the cars I've owned.

[Mazda3ofKent]

8 Months 11,000 miles no problems, excpet the police

[Mazda3Zoomer]

8 Months 11,000 miles no problems, excpet the police

hah. i beat you 6 months @ 11,700 miles. =p

no problems btw.

[Nymisus]

Over 8 months and 2550 miles and no problems. But I must say that I hardly ever have problems with any of the cars I've owned.

you must not drive it very much b/c I live less than 7 miles from work and drive everyday and have driven more than that in less than 4 months

[RonH]

you must not drive it very much b/c I live less than 7 miles from work and drive everyday and have driven more than that in less than 4 months

I'm retired and don't drive much anymore. My wife works part time and takes it to work 2 days a week, around 18 to 20 miles round trip.
When I used to work two jobs I drove around 15k miles a year.

[RumcokeBoy]

2 months/ 3500 miles,

noticable vibration from clutch when it's in low gear and low rpm such as stuck in traffic which the dealer couldn't explain why that's happening. Excessive brake dust in the rear, rear tire rub against the fender plastic, these are easy to maintain and one time fix. Other than that, my ride has been fun to drive with.

[taylor5]

A few rattles in headliner around sunroof and rear hatch area, have replaced rear brake calipers for snapping/clunking, hydraulics on clutch have been replaced for clunking....still clunking, door panels rattle with radio speakers from time to time. Oh,,,and Mazda 1-800 Customer Service could care less about your problems....extremely rude people who just brush you off.

Thats it and hopefully thats all.

Still like the car in general, but thinking about trading already for something used and cheaper payments. Then maybe I can accept the rattles that the replacement will probably have.

[Hoonyo]

Some rattling and squeeking in the frontend (not sure what)

[blondee_yvr]

Rattles and squeaks drive me nuts.

It' interesting...does anyone feel the quality is somehow effected since Mazda is made by Ford? Are these Mazdas made in the USA or Japan?

[blondee_yvr]

Still like the car in general, but thinking about trading already for something used and cheaper payments. Then maybe I can accept the rattles that the replacement will probably have.
The only two good things about buying used is the costs are cheaper and the fact that any quirks like rattles and squeaks will likely appear when you buy/sell the car. Otherwise, with my karma, buying used is more frustration than it's worth cuz no matter how thorough I [think] I am and there is always some major unexpected surprises that cost me a lot of time and money. While others I know don't do any preinspection when they buy used and they dont have any unusual problems. Weird. (uhm)

[RonH]

It' interesting...does anyone feel the quality is somehow effected since Mazda is made by Ford? Are these Mazdas made in the USA or Japan?[/QUOTE]

The Mazda3 is manufactured by Mazda in Japan. Ford does own controling interest in Mazda but doesn't build their cars.

[Mazda3ofKent]

when that you get the wheel hop it sound like the damn front end about to come off but thats doese not bother to much

[netranger6]

Wheel hop clunk that is just un-nerving, auto down on window works when it wants to, and has been replaced; squeaking in my seat and roof; in-consistent mileage; and most currently they are replacing some strut brace gasket/bearing that squeaks when I turn it to the left. Oh yeah, glove box that simply does not line up properly....

[badAzLava3]

If the VIN starts with the letter J, it's made in Japan.
Last I checked, Ford has no plants there.

6K Miles...no squeaks, rattles etc, Feb 04 build date.

[blondee_yvr]

Wheel hop clunk that is just un-nerving, auto down on window works when it wants to, and has been replaced; squeaking in my seat and roof; in-consistent mileage; and most currently they are replacing some strut brace gasket/bearing that squeaks when I turn it to the left. Oh yeah, glove box that simply does not line up properly....
A collegue of mine has the wheel hop clunk! Fascinating!!

[Jake1]

Wheel hop clunk that is just un-nerving, auto down on window works when it wants to, and has been replaced; squeaking in my seat and roof; in-consistent mileage; and most currently they are replacing some strut brace gasket/bearing that squeaks when I turn it to the left. Oh yeah, glove box that simply does not line up properly....

Yeah, I've noticed that w/my glovebox too. I hold the handle on it up all the way till it meets the upper lid of the glovebox, then release the handle. It seems to help cuz it shuts.

[krstofer]

6500+ miles. Wheel clunk, no glove box problems. lots of rattling thanks to sub. :D

Hate the clunk thing. I hear it more when I am braking and I hit a bump. haven't had the car serviced by dealer yet to check it out.

[blondee_yvr]

(eyeballs) <sigh> <SIGH>, I guess the Mazda 3 is out for me then. I suppose it's gonna have to be a Toyota or the cheap plasticy looking Civic.

[punkin4675]

(eyeballs) <sigh> <SIGH>, I guess the Mazda 3 is out for me then. I suppose it's gonna have to be a Toyota or the cheap plasticy looking Civic.

I think your counting it out to soon. The people that had the problems seem to have the first set of 2004's. I believe mine had a Feb 04 build date and I haven't had a single problem. I got mine July 2 and have put about 5600 miles on it. It's been on several 300+trips and not had a single problem. It's the best car you are going to get for under $20,000, heck under $30,000. I'd go with the 2.3 liter though, the 2.0 is doesn't have any power at all, and I'm not a hard driver (well, I have become one since I moved down here). I drove a New Beetle before this, and this car is sooo much better then that one. I feel your VW pain. You should go drive a 3, once you do you'll fall in love.

[Zoom Zoom Zoom]

How can tell on the VIN when the vehicle was made (month and year)?

[Mikey444]

11 months and 21000 kilometers, and I have had some minor issues, but I had a very early production car, for the past 5 months, not a single cough, runs beautifully, And all the litle bugs should be rectified for 2005.

[blondee_yvr]

I think your counting it out to soon. It's the best car you are going to get for under $20,000, heck under $30,000. I'd go with the 2.3 liter though, the 2.0 is doesn't have any power at all, and I'm not a hard driver (well, I have become one since I moved down here). I drove a New Beetle before this, and this car is sooo much better then that one. I feel your VW pain. You should go drive a 3, once you do you'll fall in love.
Most of my shop loaners have been Beetles and everytime I get my car back, I cann't wait to get back into my Jetta TDI.

I will go and drive a 3, I am surprised the 2.3 is ~!$21,000 CDN for the 5 speed. Anyone have any comments on the automatic? I have a manual tranny right now in my Jetta and it's really a pain (and hard on the tranny) in the city with all that stop and go driving I do. I cant go any higher than that. My TDI was only a few thousand more with haggling.

The 3 is very popular. There is not much room to negotiate with the 3 as dealers have a hard time keeping them in stock. Everyone wants one.

[Jake1]

I was thinking about getting a 3 w/a 5-spd, but I decided on the automatic and I'm glad I did. It eases the pain of stop & go driving, & the automatic comes w/a sport shift mode that you can use whenever you want.

-By the way, has any of your guy's tire pressure warning lights been going off due to cold weather? It's been getting cold around here lately and I thought that might have something to do with it: I've checked my pressure in all four tires and it's fine, so I dunno what the deal is.

[PeteyBoy3K]

I was thinking about getting a 3 w/a 5-spd, but I decided on the automatic and I'm glad I did. It eases the pain of stop & go driving, & the automatic comes w/a sport shift mode that you can use whenever you want.

-By the way, has any of your guy's tire pressure warning lights been going off due to cold weather? It's been getting cold around here lately and I thought that might have something to do with it: I've checked my pressure in all four tires and it's fine, so I dunno what the deal is.

persnickity battery in the pressure sensors? Cold keeps them from sending properly?

that would only be right when you got in the car, tho... because tires heat up when you drive on them for a while...

[Jake1]

persnickity battery in the pressure sensors? Cold keeps them from sending properly?

that would only be right when you got in the car, tho... because tires heat up when you drive on them for a while...

yeah, I know. When I get in it comes on (seems like it's only done it on a few really cold days so far) and then seems to turn off once the tires heat up.

[XhondaLovR]

Well, I see somebody else is having the same problems I have had with the auto down on the driverside window switch, the squeaking noise when you turn the front wheels to the left, and the excessive amount of brake dust from the rear brakes. On top of all that, I also have a pass. airbag that has a mind of its own. I love the car, and I know its a first year production, but damn! I didn't expect all this.

[Tricked-Out-Toy]

Ive had my2004 3s 2.3 MT for 9 weeks 8700 miles, with the only problem/annoyance is the damn wheel hop!! i hope they fix it in 05. the only other problem/issue is if i hit a puddle at higher speed the splash inside the wheel is wicked loud, also on a dirt road you can hear every little rock hit the undercarage. but over all love the car, looking to get more power from the 2.3 with either the electric supercharger or the highboost turbo kit.

[Tricked-Out-Toy]

oh ya and the brake dust is a bitch!!!!!

[PeteyBoy3K]

I have 6 mos on my Maz3 5-door and and about 17,000 miles (um, yea, I road-trip a lot). Here is a list of the minor annoyances I have and the idiocyncracies I've come up with for fixing them.

- Rear wheels have brake dust, but that is apparently going to be fixed when they have to do a brake job since newer, harder rear pads are being shipped out (everyone else has this too).

- There is a slight rattle behind the sunroof. It goes away for the rest of the day if you give a light thump between the dome light and the back of the sunshade (about 40 percent of people have complained about the minor roof rattle and aren't sure what it is).

- Recall on the airbag crash sensor (took an hour to fix, very painless)

- There is a slight rattle in the driver door in the panel with all the window-switches are when you are playing heavy-bass music... it goes away when you put your arm on it, however (leading me to beleive if I wedge a bit of cloth/foam around the panel, the rattle will stop)

- Power steering system makes the hydraulic wing-flap noise... this is cool to some (I like it/show it off), but can be annoying to others. Also, after everything is warmed up, there is a slight grumble from the front suspension when you make drastic turns (like, to maneuver in a parking lot). This is also only in my parking lot, however, so it might just be an affect of the tires on seal-coated asphalt.

-auto-down works unless I am on a particularly bumpy part of road, shaking the car while the window is going down seems to trip the resistance sensor that stops the motor. For an example: try pressing down on your window when it's auto-downing, when I press down it stops.

I am also coming to this car from a VW Golf that was evil. It's idosyncracies actually endangered my life

xhonda: do you put a bookbag on your front seat? or carry things that are >25 lbs but <60 lbs? The passenger airbag is off and not telling you if it detects < 25 lbs on the seat, the light turns on to notify you if you have >25 but < 60, and it will turn the light off and turn on the airbag if you have something > 60 lbs on the seat. This is a "feature" so that A: you don't lose two airbags if you are the only one driving and B: younging's in the front seat don't get smacked by something designed to stop someone a lot bigger. I'm guessing this is it because if you had actual airbag problems it would turn on the airbag warning light in your instrument cluster... not just the passenger airbag light.

[Hoonyo]

the squeaking noise when you turn the front wheels to the lefti absolutely hate that (rant)

[netranger6]

Here's the latest. Took my car in for those listed items earlier, and they fixed all, no hassle whatsoever. In fact, I have to say, my car now handles better and accelerates faster, I think this is due to them dis-connecting the battery and re-setting the ECU, or they flashed due to TSB. Good to note is that me steering sound was a TSB, as posted on my invoice. Handling is due to caster and toe being not in spec, wonder if this is usual with Mazda since those adjustments are coverered under warranty for the first 12K miles.

[XhondaLovR]

xhonda: do you put a bookbag on your front seat? or carry things that are >25 lbs but <60 lbs?

I already thought about that. I started a thread about this about a month ago and somebody mentioned that the seat might have to be re-calibrated, because the pass. air bag off light comes on when there is nothing in the seat at all. And I have noticed the window switch does not function properly mainly when the temperature outside is warm or hot.

[Dragn'Wagon]

8 months 11,000mi
fuel pump went out check engine light on constantly and dealer dont know why, replaced spindel bearings rear brake dust that wont stop but i still love my mazad and wouldn't trade it for anything and the dealer has done all repairs free!!!!!I do drive the hell out the car though

[uk_cannuck]

I've had my Mazda 3 for about 8 months now and have clocked up about 9000 miles. I drove down from Vancouver, Canada to LA (1200 miles, 20 hours) non stop and the car ran fine. I only stopped for fuel & restroom breaks.

Since I've had the car, I've had to have something in the passenger side door replaced. As the window went up and down, you could hear a klonking noise. I think the drivers side door is making the same noise and will have to be replaced too.

The rear shelf has also started rattling. It sounds like something has either worked it's way loose, or something has broken off in there and rattles everytime the car goes over rough roads. Got to get that looked at too.

Apart from that, no problems at all with the car.

[mazda3fivespd]

i recently had to take my 3 to the dealer and they replaced the pilot bearing, clutch disc, clutch lever, and clutch cover (under warranty). i have the excessive rear brake dust and i also have the problem with my glove box, i have to hold the handle open while i close it. but i still love my car..

[jpatricklowe]

Well, sounds like I've had mine longer than anyone else and drive a lot more, since early February and over 23,000 miles; yes, I drive a lot. I have to say though, I love my car. I've haven't had any serious problems; never had to take it to the dealer for anything. I do get that wheel clunk that everyone talks about; I believe it's from soft springs that have to travel too far. I also have the glove box problem, but you can find a fix in another thread. The problem with the automatic driver's window is the motor, or maybe the swtich, getting hot, even after being left in the sun for a number of hours. Thats doesn't bother me enough to go down to the dealer and spending enormous hours there.

I get great gas mileage, 5 speed. The leather seats have held up well, even without tinted windows. And I'm planning on changing the spring to something lower; maybe that will fix the clunling problem. I too do a lot of stop and go driving, Miami traffic, but my clutch doesn't bother me; it's rather soft.

I will recommend the 3 to anyone, but right now getting a good deal may be hard because it's so popular. The 6 has a great sale right now, at least in the US. And you can get the same 2.3 engine, but of course there is the 6 cylinder. Your choice.

[wingzer01]

Anyone ever drove in really wet, rainy weather in their 3 and at some points (it might've been the road), your car just swerved all of a sudden? I've droved many cars in wet weather and it happened to me yesterday. Nothing bad happened but one time it happened, it scared the shit out of me. I think the 3 obviously needs better stock tires, as has been complained about by many before.

[FrigginGLI]

Stock tires do suck , so far no problems here.

[Screamin'3]

wingzer - you probably hydroplaned, the goodgrief Rs/a is an ok dry tire, and middleing in the wet.

My turn...5000 miles, 5 months. no problems until a week ago. CEL, take it to Autozone and the OBD2 scanner couldn't connect. Took to dealer, thier handheld OBD2 scanner wouldn't connect. Service writer feeds me a line that the car is too smart for the "cheap" scanners to work, it has to be hooked up to thier "computer". It was a faulty thermostat. That and the airbag sensor recall.

My question is; Mazda is supposed to conform to OBD2, yet an OBD2 scanner doesn't work. So has anyone else had this issue?

[Jake1]

I just noticed today that my f-ckin' windshield has a crack in it! (argh)
Does anybody think it could be caused by just really cold weather? It's not too significant, but I just got the car this July. What the hell?!?

[Screamin'3]

(2thumbs) BTW, I LOVE this car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (burnout)

[bilzfan]

Air sensor replaced right out of the box (on the way home from dealer the light went on).

Currently at 9500 miles and 9 months of use. Everything ok since the air bag sensor.

Rear Brake dust is seriously nasty and Mazda doesn't seem to care about it.

[lumlum83]

*deleted*

[Da 6]

early 04's are 1st year production so that has to be taken into cosideration when buying any 1st year production car(Lessons learned). I beleve the newer ones got rid of most the isues. just be glad your car is imported unlike the 6 we loose the navi and hids by it being built here...

[solid_snake]

It' interesting...does anyone feel the quality is somehow effected since Mazda is made by Ford? Are these Mazdas made in the USA or Japan?

The Mazda3 is manufactured by Mazda in Japan. Ford does own controling interest in Mazda but doesn't build their cars.[/QUOTE]


Mazda has some Ford parts in their older cars such as the worst Mazda ever, THE 626, it has Ford transmission

[Da 6]

Newer V6 6 has ford tranny replaing the jap junk ones...mazda 3 is imported...mazda 6 is built here...if you had the option for navi and hids then ford didn't build it...

[goldwing2000]

Probably a full 75% of the parts in the Mazda3 are Ford parts.

Just not Ford USA parts. They all come from India, Hungary, etc.

[ZippityZoomZoom]

I have a passenger door panel rattle. I'll fix that myself. Hmmm, I don't care for the way the slushbox shifts when cold. That's it. Drives great, handles wonderfully.

Rear deck rattle for the HB: check that the cover is securely fastened. I had this happen too and some cargo had pushed one side out of the detent.

Steering whine: this car has electric steering, the servos make that noise. It never seems all that loud unless I am going slow and steering hard (tight garage parking).

Undercarriage noise: this car is an entry-level car thus it does not have all the noise abatement material you'll find in a $30K+ car. You should drive a new Cavalier or base Civic if you want rattles and road noise -yuck.

This car is a miracle if you think about the first model year Focus. (boom08)

[JDM Sam]

lol @ brake dust. Get some ebc pads if you want no brake dust. Most factory brake pads leave your wheels dirty.

[Fobby_Monkey]

There are 2 bulletins to fix your front and back brakes for squeaking when cold. Dealer will fix it for you if you mention it.

[3-LOV3R]

Got the infamous door pannel rattle... which is driving me nuts. I'm gonna have to go in and fix that. And the squeaky brakes when cold... I'll have to look up the posts on how to fix that.

[ZippityZoomZoom]

Got the infamous door pannel rattle... which is driving me nuts. I'm gonna have to go in and fix that. And the squeaky brakes when cold... I'll have to look up the posts on how to fix that.

I just got done fixing the door panel rattle, after the dealership tried and failed twice. I used weatherstripping foam strips from Home Depot around the bolt holes underneath the innermost plastic cover. I first drove around without the outermost panel and still had the rattle, then I was able to narrow it down. I also tightened every bolt and screw down a bit, some were really loose. Took all of 20 minutes and two drives around the block. GL

[3-LOV3R]

Thanks for the info... I'll have to tackle that this week when I install my new speakers.

[carz8]

I put 20k miles in 10 months and have had the following problems:..Car is currently in dealer to resolve some of these issues.

- Air bag sensor - Dealer replacing sensor (recall)
- Glove box does not close properly sometimes
- Sqeaky brakes - Dealer cleaned brakes..same issue - Dealer replacing pads
- Excessive rear brake dust..dust seems less now with 20k breakin.
- Check Engine light comes on - Bulletin out according to dealer for fix.
- With the recent cold weather, I have noticed a hissing sound from front of car during warm ups in the mornings. Sounds like an air leak but it goes away after a few minutes.

Overall the car runs great and after seeing a friend take his BMW to the dealer with problems for the past 2 months, I can't complain considering the 3 is a new model.

4dr sedan 2.3 AT

[goldwing2000]

I think the most common problem is shitty dealer service. (jerkit)

That might be common to all cars, though. This is my first new car, so I've never had to deal with service departments before.

Lemme tell ya... I ain't happy about having to spar with these people. (enguard)

[carz8]

I put 20k miles in 10 months and have had the following problems:..Car is currently in dealer to resolve some of these issues.

- Air bag sensor - Dealer replacing sensor (recall)
- Glove box does not close properly sometimes
- Sqeaky brakes - Dealer cleaned brakes..same issue - Dealer replacing pads
- Excessive rear brake dust..dust seems less now with 20k breakin.
- Check Engine light comes on - Bulletin out according to dealer for fix.
- With the recent cold weather, I have noticed a hissing sound from front of car during warm ups in the mornings. Sounds like an air leak but it goes away after a few minutes.

Overall the car runs great and after seeing a friend take his BMW to the dealer with problems for the past 2 months, I can't complain considering the 3 is a new model.

4dr sedan 2.3 AT

Wow! Dealer addressed all my problems with new parts.
Service report:

CAUSE - RECALL - AIR BAG SENSOR
CORRECTION - REPLACED CRASH ZONE SENSOR AS PER RECALL 2304J

CAUSE - BRAKE NOISE
CORRECTION - REPLACED CALIPER MOUNTING FOR FRONT BRAKES AND FILED DOWN EDGES

CAUSE - CEL - INTERNAL FAILURE
TECH DIAGNOSED AND RETRIEVED CODE P2404-EVAP PUMP
CORRECTION - REPLACED EVAP PUMP

CAUSE - BELT NOISE
CORRECTION - REPLACED ALTERNATOR BELT

[lumpy]

My 3 wouldn't start this morning so I had to call roadside assistance. I've noticed lately that with the extreme cold weather its been very slow to turn over. I put the battery charger on it for about an hour and it gave it enough juice to start. Right now its at the dealership and they provided me with a loaner car.

Also, other concerns I have with the car is a hard 1st to 2nd shift when cold. After a minute or so its fine.... And a recall on the air bag sensor....

other than those two things its been a great little car, 10 months and 10,000 miles.....

[Mnementh]

I bought mine in May of '04 and have 12,000 miles. Have had no real problems except one: check engine light that comes on for a couple days then goes off for a couple of hours only to come back for a couple of days, and so on.... About the 4th day after it came on I got hesitation coming from a stop on two different instances on the same short 2 mile trip, then nothing until two days later, only one instance. Both occurances were within minutes of starting the car.
Anybody else have this issue and can shed light on it? I'd like to have some info before I go to the dealer, so I don't get the runaround.

Otherwise no real issues just the same seen here:
- Airbag Sensor, got the recall letter, just haven't taken it in yet.
- Brakes squeak, but only in reverse when I first start the car on a cold morning or evening after the car has not been driven for a while.
- Brake dust on the rear wheels (haven't had the breaks done yet)
- Transmission shifts rough on a cold morning form 1st to 2nd. Otherwise it just shifts sloppy occasionally when warm. (I recommend the 5spd if you have any sporting intensions. 4 speeds is simply not enough for this engine. Car and Driver magazine says its one the best shifting 5spds you can find on an entry level car)
- Rear wheels have a certain amount of negative camber, but I see this on every other 3 I've seen. Anybody know anything about this??
- Glove box rattles sometimes, left side hangs down slightly
- Auto down doen't work on very hot day, 90+ degrees usually.
- Noticed the whining on the power steering, thought it was an issue, but apparently not.
- Groaning/squeaking like sound when turning the wheel either direction at slow speeds. Almost like a bad bushing. Haven't seen this one mentioned, anybody have this too??

Regardless, I absolutely love driving this car (except for the AT) and would whole heartedly recommend it to anyone considering a Hondo or Toyota.

[Dragn'Wagon]

I bought mine in May of '04 and have 12,000 miles. Have had no real problems except one: check engine light that comes on for a couple days then goes off for a couple of hours only to come back for a couple of days, and so on.... About the 4th day after it came on I got hesitation coming from a stop on two different instances on the same short 2 mile trip, then nothing until two days later, only one instance. Both occurances were within minutes of starting the car.
Anybody else have this issue and can shed light on it? I'd like to have some info before I go to the dealer, so I don't get the runaround.

Otherwise no real issues just the same seen here:
- Airbag Sensor, got the recall letter, just haven't taken it in yet.
- Brakes squeak, but only in reverse when I first start the car on a cold morning or evening after the car has not been driven for a while.
- Brake dust on the rear wheels (haven't had the breaks done yet)
- Transmission shifts rough on a cold morning form 1st to 2nd. Otherwise it just shifts sloppy occasionally when warm. (I recommend the 5spd if you have any sporting intensions. 4 speeds is simply not enough for this engine. Car and Driver magazine says its one the best shifting 5spds you can find on an entry level car)
- Rear wheels have a certain amount of negative camber, but I see this on every other 3 I've seen. Anybody know anything about this??
- Glove box rattles sometimes, left side hangs down slightly
- Auto down doen't work on very hot day, 90+ degrees usually.
- Noticed the whining on the power steering, thought it was an issue, but apparently not.
- Groaning/squeaking like sound when turning the wheel either direction at slow speeds. Almost like a bad bushing. Haven't seen this one mentioned, anybody have this too??

Regardless, I absolutely love driving this car (except for the AT) and would whole heartedly recommend it to anyone considering a Hondo or Toyota.





the only advise that i can give you is.....purge valve in the gas tank. thats waht happened to me and sound like what you are describing

[Mnementh]

the only advise that i can give you is.....purge valve in the gas tank. thats waht happened to me and sound like what you are describing


I was thinkin' something along those lines, that it was a fuel issue.

Thanks for the update.

[Golum]

Do you happen to have the bulletin numbers?


There are 2 bulletins to fix your front and back brakes for squeaking when cold. Dealer will fix it for you if you mention it.

[mobomelter]

does anyone else here have an 2005 mz3?

[Kodiac 3]

3 months/ 4300 miles no problems!!!
My dealer is totally awesome. PREMIER MAZDA GEORGETOWN, TEXAS
They worked on my finacing for hours. Had a manager, salesman, and that bank guy crunching numbers until i got approved. All their service been good. Only problem is that they 90 miles away. The local one is shit though! Mazda South Austin

This is my first car and i don't care what anyone says - i keeping it for a long time (and my interior kicks ass)

[blizz81]

Nice to come back, take a quick look, and see that no new major problems have developed. For the record...

04 5-spd 4-door, ~7500 miles

- interior rattles. Here and there on the dash, pretty prevalent bass rattles on both front doors. Might have them take a look at the doors sometime, but it's probably something I'll deal with myself if I ever do a stereo install. Rattles aren't a big deal to me in this car - it's a little compact car, and pretty much every car I or my family has owned has had rattles. Even my 4th-gen Maxima, which originally sold for $31k to the first owner. My Acura was pretty bad too. This is a Mazda compact.

- rear brake dust. Yeah...new pads someday.

- occasional clunking in front suspension when going through a drive-thru, etc. I'm not really worried about this one, but it would be a hard issue to get solved with a service dept, methinks.


The car is pretty 'noisy' overall, but I expected that coming in. For the original poster to relate rattles to 'major issues', well...some people feel that way, but to me, a major issue is an actual drivetrain fault issue. I realize some people have had their clutch assembly replaced, and perhaps that's something to keep an eye on (also interesting to watch for tranny problems as these things age - not that I'm expecting any). My drivetrain seems fine and my clutch action and shifting action is still smooth as butter. My engine seems fine, but it loses bite near the top-end. That's how it runs though, not hesitation.

Still having fun over here :)

[netranger6]

I began experiencing some serious body roll. Took it in, and they replaced the strut mounts up front. Guess there's a TSB on 'em, and now, the turns I could only take at 60 MPH, I can now take at 70 or better, and it is well planted. Thus far, my customer service experience has been flawless.

[lilmama]

'04 5-door, manual tranny

so far...had a brake thumping--dealer fixed it in about ten minutes..something was disconnected

horrible tapping/thumping noise from engine/front end--need to call the dealer, but have to get the intake removed first to warranty isn't voided

brakes squeak in the cold

slight whine in engine (belt maybe?)--gonna get dealer to look at that too...only happens in the rain though (I think)

Question though...will after-market suspension void the entire warranty or just the suspension's warranty...I have H&R springs on there and DO NOT want to pay to have stock ones put back in before I take the car in.

I'll post an update when I find out what's going on

[mizzoudavis]

Is it difficult to install new speakers in the 3? I'm trying toi eliminate that pesky door rattle, and I think that if I'm going to shred the door apart, I may as well put in new speakers.

Also, has anyone had any success installing a new stereo? I would like to have some direct line-in capacity to play XM radio.

Thanks

[justjames]

Also, has anyone had any success installing a new stereo? I would like to have some direct line-in capacity to play XM radio.

Thanks

I installed an XM radio SKYFi2 with wireless FM capability. Works great though it's not a direct in-line setup as you are looking for.

James

[scrivenerc]

I have 16K on my 3 and have had no problems that I havent caused my self, and I hope it stays that way(knock on wood) because I have so many mods done the warrenty has to be void.

[Newf]

all these problems are nice to know.I was considering maybe a mazdaspeed 3 next year if it comes out and I like it,


But if there is anything in the car that makes anything close to a clunk sound....forget it. Maybe Honda will have something decent by then...lol.

[goldwing2000]

Not so much a "clunk" as a "huge bloody pounding that sounds like the front end is going to fall off and launch the car ass-over-teakettle as the engine crossmember digs into the asphalt."

But other than that, I'm completely happy. (yippy)

In all reality, the problem could be solved by getting rid of the liquid-filled motor mounts and liquid-filled control arm bushings.

But then the yuppies would whine.

And Lord knows we can't have that. :rolleyes:

Maybe they'll fix it for the 'Speed.

[mizzoudavis]

all these problems are nice to know.I was considering maybe a mazdaspeed 3 next year if it comes out and I like it,


But if there is anything in the car that makes anything close to a clunk sound....forget it. Maybe Honda will have something decent by then...lol.

Actually, Honda is revamping their Civic sport and putting the horsepower back in it. Might be something to wait for. I think it comes out in '05-'06.

[timt]

Is it difficult to install new speakers in the 3? I'm trying toi eliminate that pesky door rattle, and I think that if I'm going to shred the door apart, I may as well put in new speakers.

Also, has anyone had any success installing a new stereo? I would like to have some direct line-in capacity to play XM radio.

Thanks
I had some Kenwood's installed to replace the absolutely horrific sounding OEM speakers. Improved the sound quality 100%+. Cost around $300 complete. Well worth it.

[MARCB]

Has anyone experienced a wind noise, from thier door at higher speeds coming from above the latch/hasp area. It sound like it may be coming from the window drivers window, or may just be the weather stripping in the door?

Oh Liked the advice about the speakers, the factory ones are pretty weak.

[lospez54]

my 04 mazda3 5 door had a problem wit the power steering the 3rd day we got it anyone else had same problem?

[fam]

cheap ass paintjob, thinnest layer they can paint and it still look the same color :P

[KING13]

Has anyone experienced a wind noise, from thier door at higher speeds coming from above the latch/hasp area. It sound like it may be coming from the window drivers window, or may just be the weather stripping in the door?

Oh Liked the advice about the speakers, the factory ones are pretty weak.
There is a tsb on this here it is
S018/98 WIND NOISE AROUND DOORS
APPLICABLE MODELS
All models except Miata and MX-6.

DESCRIPTION
Wind noise around doors may occur with some vehicles. This may be caused by the door weather-strip seal.

Customers complaining of this should have their vehicle inspected and repaired according to this service bulletin.

REPAIR PROCEDURE
Verify customer complaint.
Examine weather-strip for the following conditions:
Rips, tears, cuts
Loose or falling off
Excessive deterioration
If the weather-strip has any of the above conditions, replace it. Go to step 3.
If weather-strip does not have any of the above conditions, but wind noise still exists, proceed to the "Card Test" below.
Card Test
Open the door and insert a business card (0.2MM thickness) between the door and the weather-strip at the base of the A-pillar. Close the door.


Slide the business card up along the A-pillar.
If the card slides easily at any location along the A-pillar, the sealing contact between the door is insufficient and requires adjustment. Proceed to "DOOR ADJUSTMENT".
If there is consistent resistance, proceed to the "White Grease Test".
NOTE: The card test can only be used to evaluate the A-pillar sealing contact. Use the following "White Gease Test" to evaluate the rest of the weather-strip.

White Grease Test
Roll down windows and adequately cover all interior surfaces to prevent contact with grease.
Thoroughly and evenly spray the sheet metal surface of the body that seals against the weather-strip on the door.


NOTE: It is recommended that you use KAR Products #)78620 "Multi-purpose white grease (aerosol spray)" or equivalent.

Do not spray the weather-strip.

Using only the door handle, very gently close the door. This will prevent over-slam which could result in an inaccurate reading.
Open the door and measure the width of the grease pattern that is left along the length of the weather-strip (check for any unevenness in width)
If 4mm or more, sealing contact is adequate if door closing effort is acceptable. Clean grease from vehicle.
If 3mm or less, sealing contact is insufficient. Clean grease from vehicle and proceed to "DOOR ADJUSTMENT".
Door Adjustment
The door should be adjusted to obtain the proper seal compression while maintaining proper door alignment. The hinges control the in/out location of the door at the front as well as overall tip or tilt of the door when viewed from the front or rear. The door striker controls the in/out location of the door at the rear latch

CAUTION: Do not pry or force the door into alignment.

In addition to Workshop Manual procedures for door alignment, the following information tips are provided

As a guideline, if the weather-strip contact is insufficient, the door hinge(s) should be adjusted 2-4 mm inward. Determine the amount of movement by outlining the hinge mount area before door adjustment and after.


Adjusting one hinge at a time will prevent any extreme door movement. This is done by loosening the hinge bolts and moving the door with a padded pry bar just enough to permit movement of the door.
Hinges should be adjusted first, followed by the striker.
Adjustment to the rear door(s), if applicable, may require adjustments to the front door and possibly to the front fender to maintain alignment.
Door closing effort should be checked to ensure that it remains acceptable after adjustments are completed. If any doors are too difficult to close, the seal compression may be excessive and adjustment will need to be repeated.
After completing adjustments, verify seal compression by using the card test and white grease test.
Verify repair.
_________________
2001 Protege ES 2.0L* (AT, A/C, SPOILER) - 92.000kms
2004 Mazda3 GS 2.0L* (MT, A/C, POWER, SPORT) - 12.800kms

[souldout]

7 months - 15,600 miles...no problems yet

[My 3 and Me]

I have a 2004 Mazda 3i 4dr with 25k miles no problems with it at all just a cheap paint job, lot of little chips on it. At this rate ill need new paint on it next year (hump)

[fam]

thats exactly what im talking about, lots of little holes now. My car is white and it makes it even worse :(

[iamcanadian]

here is a list of the stuff that has gone wrong with my mazda 3. If you have been having some of the same problems that haven't been addressed please email me and let me know. (I wanna know i'm not the only one with these problems)
Basic Info: 2004Mazda 3 4-door, 2.3L. Automatic One of the first Models out.
From Toronto, Ontario, Canada

1. Brake Dust (not much you can do about that every car gets it)
2. Air Bag Sensor Stayed On (problem was with some seal around the airbag or something they switched it to a gold one. free of charge from dealer)
3. Hissing noise from the front (saw the post gonna go have the alternator belt replaced I hope it works)
4. Clunk popping into reverse leaving my driveway (Even with a warm up) (if anyone has this problem too please let me know)
5. Sloppy shifting under cold starts or cold conditions (the gears jump hard from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th)
6. Glove box wouldnt close without holding the handle open (mazda replaced entire glove box for free
7. Window altenator problem (dunno what happened but my window didnt work mazda fixed free)
8. check engine light comes on once in a blue moon (usually restarting my car fixs the problem doesnt happen frequntly enough for me to care)
9. Wipers can come loose. (if you keep it on auto wipers and there is a lot of snow on your windshield or ice freezing them...the wipers have a special nut that loosens if there is too much tension on the wipers to not burn out the motor. To bad it happened to me in the winter when it decided to be freezing rain. Had to hold my hand out the window and make sure the wiper only went so far. Mazda will fix it the first time for free but give you a warning)
10. Had the jumps too. if i gun it from a stop i get bad traction and the whole car shakes for a few seconds until i regain traction. Also recently if i brake hard i get a huge thud throught the car. I had to look behind me to make sure someone didnt rear-end me because that is what it felt like (no idea no solution)

So if you have any of the problems that I have not gotten fixed yet I would love to hear from you. or if you got any of them fixed. I guess having the first of something isnt always the best seeing is I seem to have had everyones problems so far. Oh and as a side note some bastard keyed the entire driver side of my M3 i think because I was partially blocking the sidewalk at my friends house :'(
And also if you dont already have tints GET THEM! They make the car trust me and they are not very expensive at all.

Thanks,

David James

[goldwing2000]

6. There is both a TSB and a How-To procedure on this board about the glovebox.

10. bubble-gum soft motor mounts, combined with liquid-filled control arm bushings are the cause of both problems. Eventually, you'll also notice it if you hit a pothole just right.

[ZippityZoomZoom]

9. Wipers can come loose. (if you keep it on auto wipers and there is a lot of snow on your windshield or ice freezing them...the wipers have a special nut that loosens if there is too much tension on the wipers to not burn out the motor. To bad it happened to me in the winter when it decided to be freezing rain. Had to hold my hand out the window and make sure the wiper only went so far. Mazda will fix it the first time for free but give you a warning)


10. Had the jumps too. if i gun it from a stop i get bad traction and the whole car shakes for a few seconds until i regain traction.

Thanks,

David James
9. They do make things called 'windshield scrapers'. Great for ice/snow removal before driving. (confused)

10. I have experienced wheel hop in every front wheel drive car I've owned. Is this unusual? I remember gunning my '03 Acura CL-S from a stop a couple of times and I felt like I was inside a jackhammer for a second or so.

I had the excessive wheel dust issue but ever since I had the wheels rotated I haven't had an issue. Wierd.

[iamcanadian]

I was going to scrap but i left the setting for them on automatic so when i started my car it automatically tryed to wipe but there was too much preasure. Just a warning to people not to leave it on the automatic setting.
Also I forgot to mention that I had a problem with freezing cold starts on the mornings that it dropped to like -30 oC it took me 2 to 3 times of cranking the engine and it did not sound good on those days. I usued to have no problems with my corolla on really cold days. I was going to opt for block heaters but the labour to install them is like 200 bucks

[pwielowi]

here is a list of the stuff that has gone wrong with my mazda 3. If you have been having some of the same problems that haven't been addressed please email me and let me know. (I wanna know i'm not the only one with these problems)
Basic Info: 2004Mazda 3 4-door, 2.3L. Automatic One of the first Models out.
From Toronto, Ontario, Canada

1. Brake Dust (not much you can do about that every car gets it)
2. Air Bag Sensor Stayed On (problem was with some seal around the airbag or something they switched it to a gold one. free of charge from dealer)
3. Hissing noise from the front (saw the post gonna go have the alternator belt replaced I hope it works)
4. Clunk popping into reverse leaving my driveway (Even with a warm up) (if anyone has this problem too please let me know)
5. Sloppy shifting under cold starts or cold conditions (the gears jump hard from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th)
6. Glove box wouldnt close without holding the handle open (mazda replaced entire glove box for free
7. Window altenator problem (dunno what happened but my window didnt work mazda fixed free)
8. check engine light comes on once in a blue moon (usually restarting my car fixs the problem doesnt happen frequntly enough for me to care)
9. Wipers can come loose. (if you keep it on auto wipers and there is a lot of snow on your windshield or ice freezing them...the wipers have a special nut that loosens if there is too much tension on the wipers to not burn out the motor. To bad it happened to me in the winter when it decided to be freezing rain. Had to hold my hand out the window and make sure the wiper only went so far. Mazda will fix it the first time for free but give you a warning)
10. Had the jumps too. if i gun it from a stop i get bad traction and the whole car shakes for a few seconds until i regain traction. Also recently if i brake hard i get a huge thud throught the car. I had to look behind me to make sure someone didnt rear-end me because that is what it felt like (no idea no solution)

So if you have any of the problems that I have not gotten fixed yet I would love to hear from you. or if you got any of them fixed. I guess having the first of something isnt always the best seeing is I seem to have had everyones problems so far. Oh and as a side note some bastard keyed the entire driver side of my M3 i think because I was partially blocking the sidewalk at my friends house :'(
And also if you dont already have tints GET THEM! They make the car trust me and they are not very expensive at all.

Thanks,

David James

Hi,

I also have a problem with shifting under cold starts or cold conditions, especially from 1st to 2nd. This problem developed about 6 weeks ago. I am going to the dealer in few days. Will let you know what they say.

pwielowi@yahoo.com

[splitvizion]

I am the KING of mileage. 14 months=46,000 welcome to the world of a traveling entreupenuer. looking for a beater as we speak. To let the miles catch up. Although, the car runs great beyond the crash sensor, and brake dust.

[MazdaAxela]

^^^ Havent heard of that noise before nor have I experienced(thankfully) Have you found anything more on it??

[Tricked-Out-Toy]

I am the KING of mileage. 14 months=46,000 welcome to the world of a traveling entreupenuer. looking for a beater as we speak. To let the miles catch up. Although, the car runs great beyond the crash sensor, and brake dust.

I dont know man, ive had my car 8months and i have 24,894!! and im about to put another 1000 on it this weekend drivein to syracuse then to baltimore then back to syracuse then to albany then to boston:) I bet in 14 Month ill be at 60k:) ill post back when i hit it (usa)

[Tricked-Out-Toy]

o ya anyone have this problem/quirk when im coming to a light or a stop and im down shifting from 4th to 3rd and somethime from3rd to 2nd ill after i move the shifter from 4th to 3rd and start to release the clutch i feel the clutch grab and start to decelerate the car, it feels exactly like it should (engine slows the car) with my foot still on the clutch ill fully release it and right when i lift the car surges forward almost like im pushing the clutch in and then ill catch again real quick kinda like if you push in and released the clutch real fast. its really annoying! and doesnt happen all the time. has anyone noticed this? if you dont understand what im saying you dont have the issue cause its def noticeable! thanks

[mikbimdre]

Has anyone had a problem with their clutch sweaking everytime you depress it.
It only happens every now and then, seems to be cause of temperature

[goldwing2000]

Has anyone had a problem with their clutch sweaking everytime you depress it.
It only happens every now and then, seems to be cause of temperature

That's the little hamster that activates the cruise control circuit. (yes)



Just kidding. There's a TSB for it.

http://web2.iadfw.net/theman/protegefaq/tsb/mt000004338.html

Mine does it but it doesn't really bother me enough to take it in for service. I'll just mention it next time it's in.

[mikbimdre]

Hey thanks "goldwing" i'll ask about that next time i'm at the dealership

do you know of a site that i can price out the front grill, a rock shot up and cracked it in half.

[goldwing2000]

Upper or lower grille?

If you want a factory upper grill, you might want to ask some of the people on this board who have replaced theirs with aftermarket. Other than that, dealer or junkyard (if you're really lucky).

If you want to replace it with an aftermarket grill, personally I would go with the AutoExe (about $300). The Erebuni is cheaper but has fitment issues, from what I've heard.

[Kodiac 3]

(notcool) Ok...... Perfect 12,000 miles today and the check transmission light comes on.(that sucks!)

Took it in and the problem appears to be a bad O2 sensor!!! They keeping my car overnight and i got a rental. 2003 corolla and i HATE it!!!!!!!! I hope i get my car back tom.

Anyone else have to replace the O2 sensor. This is my first car problem

[RonH]

A bad o2 sensor is one of the most common problems with all computer cars.At least it's under warranty for a long time since it's an emission part.

[Shiney_McShine]

6500+ miles. Wheel clunk, no glove box problems. lots of rattling thanks to sub. :D

Hate the clunk thing. I hear it more when I am braking and I hit a bump. haven't had the car serviced by dealer yet to check it out.
I tried but was brushed off with the explanation that "It is normal"......

[Shiney_McShine]

6. There is both a TSB and a How-To procedure on this board about the glovebox.

10. bubble-gum soft motor mounts, combined with liquid-filled control arm bushings are the cause of both problems. Eventually, you'll also notice it if you hit a pothole just right.
Which would explain my previous post when I took it to the dealer......It is rather frightening the first few times you hear it.....I have learned to keep the wheel spin to a minimum because of it.

[goldwing2000]

Which would explain my previous post when I took it to the dealer......It is rather frightening the first few times you hear it.....I have learned to keep the wheel spin to a minimum because of it.

It's definitely a disconcerting sound. Hopefully somebody will have some urethane replacements soon.

[Kodiac 3]

well went to pick up my car. Got it back and a good 30 seconds passed and that damn light came back on. Now they say they have to replace the throttle body because it's going out.............

[sajack]

My Mazda cuts out at 7,000rpm.

[goldwing2000]

My Mazda cuts out at 7,000rpm.

You know it's supposed to, right? (boom07)

[sajack]

You know it's supposed to, right? (boom07)

Do you suppose it has a FORD rev limiter?

[goldwing2000]

Do you suppose it has a FORD rev limiter?

LoL! Well, if Ford made the ECU, then I think it's a pretty safe bet they made the rev limiter (since it's just software). (yupnope)

[Loose]

10,000 as of last night.

Door rattles: fixed
Crappy wiper blades: not concerned
Crappy rear disc dust: waiting for them to wear out

Scale of 1-10 = 9.75
Still a very satisfied customer, even if I don't have a turbo ...yet.

[splitvizion]

my carpet on the drivers side is starting to tear. This cannot be normal. It is tearing where the mat hook is and it is tearing wear the dead pedal area is. What do you guys think about this. Will the dealership replace the carpeting.

[ZippityZoomZoom]

10,000 as of last night.

Door rattles: fixed
Crappy wiper blades: not concerned
Crappy rear disc dust: waiting for them to wear out

Scale of 1-10 = 9.75
Still a very satisfied customer, even if I don't have a turbo ...yet.

What was the door rattle fix? Mine came back; passenger side only.

I purchased PIAA silicon wipers; absolutely terrific.

Rear disc dust has been getting better as the miles pile on.

[Loose]

What was the door rattle fix? Mine came back; passenger side only.

I purchased PIAA silicon wipers; absolutely terrific.

Rear disc dust has been getting better as the miles pile on.

Door rattle fied and has not returned. I have a great tech at my stealership.

[sajack]

Wheel hop clunk that is just un-nerving, auto down on window works when it wants to, and has been replaced; squeaking in my seat and roof; in-consistent mileage; and most currently they are replacing some strut brace gasket/bearing that squeaks when I turn it to the left. Oh yeah, glove box that simply does not line up properly....

What you need is a good used Camaro!

[Loose]

What was the door rattle fix? Mine came back; passenger side only.

I purchased PIAA silicon wipers; absolutely terrific.

Rear disc dust has been getting better as the miles pile on.
The fix was just some loose screws that screwed into the inner door frame

[sl0wthe0ry]

heh, i seem to have broken my rear motor mount on my 05 hatch. its got 2600 miles on it........oops! (yupnope)

[Shakespeare72]

I've read through so many posts that mention problems people have had with their Mazda 3 and how much they love the car still. Personally, I think the thing is a piece of junk.

I purchased my Mazda on October 1st. Before the first payment was made, the engine light came on. Before I could get it into the shop, it went off. In December, it came on again. I took it back to the dealer. They kept it for two days and couldn't find anything wrong with it. Except a clock that won't keep correct time and aparantly they are ordering me a new one of those but they are backordered because the clocks are junk just like the rest of the car.

This week (January) the engine light came back on. I called and made an appointment to have it checked out. Then the light went back off. Well, I've already learned that if the light is not on, they can't figure out what is wrong so I canceled the appointment. Tonight, I got in to go out for dinner. The engine light, ABS light, Stearing Wheel light, Battery light, and AT light all came on and off as I drove. When they were all on, the speedometer dropped to zero.

I can't really take it in because by the time I get it there, everything will be working fine again. What ticks me off most though is that I purchased a NEW car so I wouldn't have to deal with repairs. The cost isn't the issue here--warranty is still in effect, but the time and hassle is just too much. I'm honestly thinking lemon or not, I'm about to stop making payments on the sucker and let them have it back.

We bought a Nissan the day before and haven't had a lick of problems with it.

[blondee_yvr]

Shakespeare72, let me say that what you are going through really sucks! It is possible you DO have a lemon, but it could also be electrical and finding the problem could fix all your issues.

I would take your Mazda3 to another dealership or ask/insist on having the shop foreman or senior mechanic work on your car. Everyone raves about Wolfe Langley, I would call them if you're in Canada, BC, and speak to Mark, the manager. He's quite knowledgable.

What u can also do, providing that there is one available for our Mazda3 is get a code reader. Use the code reader when the idiot lights go on. Find out the return policy of the reader so you can return it afterwards. Remember, every brand has it's share of lemons.

It's really funny how people are loyal to their cars. With my VW TDI, I could NOT say ANYTHING negative about it without somebody from the VW forum jumping on me. I have my problems with my Mazda right now. I am dealing with the service manager and with a head guy at Mazda Canada too. It's not a lemon, but it is so frustrating and disappointing with some of the issues so early with the new car.

Also, I would like to also encourage everyone to insist that their service manager logs any and all complaints with Mazda Canada, especially with the A/C issue with the 2005, and 2004's.

Good luck and keep us posted.

[ZippityZoomZoom]

It was stated before and beaten to death probably, but this is a Mazda site as it is with your VW site, these are people who have spent thousands of dollars on a vehicle that is part of their daily lives. Saying, "I drive a piece of crap" isn't usually something people are proud of especially when it is NOT their experience. The fact is forums are NOT a sampling of the real world; but a very unique and relatively small segment of auto purchasers. If you gather real, empirical data you will see that major problems are not common with the Mazda3. That is why Consumer Reports and other data gathering groups say this is a reliable car. They are not emotionally attached to a purchase they have made, they are looking at data gleaned from the THOUSANDs of Mazda3s out there. Take a deep breath, step back a moment and think about things rationally.

[sajack]

8 months and 8,000 miles and not a single issue or problem with our Mazda3 Special Edition. I guess if I had to come up with some kind of complaint it would be that the paint seems to be a little thin and fragile, but this seems to be an industry-wide norm with today`s environmentally friendly paints. This is one great car, 1,000 times better than the GM piece-of-junk we traded in on it.
The mileage is not as good as a Civic or a Corolla, but the 2.3 has decent torque and drives and performs like many larger V6s.
This car is one of the best purchases we have ever made. It has the aura of a much more expensive car. My wife got stopped by a cop last Friday and he thought it was a BMW.

[trees]

The paint does suck, i have at least 6 chips in my hood with only 5000 miles, theonly other prob. i had was a bad bumper clip that took 3 times for them to fix but they ordered a new kind of clip and it has not push out yet. i still love this car! (first)

[blondee_yvr]

Interesting, I decided to re-read this thread and I didn't find anyone mentioning about the poor A/C in the Mazda3. It is mentioned in other Mazda forums. The problem appears to be the cycling on and off of the A/C every 10 seconds. Initially, the 04's had no diffuser. Of course, it's winter now so most people aren't using it, but come the spring and fall, one will really notice it if they use their A/C at a setting of Level 1.

[goldwing2000]

I complained about it and then got the diffuser installed. Haven't used the a/c since, so I don't know if it worked or not.

[blondee_yvr]

If you didnt have a diffuser to begin with, it will make a difference. But many people with an 05 do have a diffuser and the A/C is still weak. You need to have it on level 2. The compressor also cycles on and off every 10 seconds. During this time, only warm air is blowing, hence the poor cooling.

[sajack]

If you didnt have a diffuser to begin with, it will make a difference. But many people with an 05 do have a diffuser and the A/C is still weak. You need to have it on level 2. The compressor also cycles on and off every 10 seconds. During this time, only warm air is blowing, hence the poor cooling.

We had no problems last summer in 100 degree Lowyesanna weather.
Oddly, the absolute best A/C we have had any any car was in an `02 Cavalier.
Go figure.

[thasilver3]

5 monthes old 5300 miles no problems at all besides a lil rattle in the right side of the back seat. and for paint chips screw the paint. 5 monthes old and i got like 5 chips. my lancer had better paint LOL and mitsu quality is pretty crappy to start with besides the evo but thats my own opinion. but i still <3 my mazda 3.

[blondee_yvr]

From what I read, it's about a 50/50 split that those have problems with their A/C and those that don't.

BTW, was at my dealer the other day and they did an indepth A/C check which required them to "dump" the coolant and to weigh it. The coolant was a little low and it shouldn't be. They re-filled it and also added a dye to show if any leaks would turn up. We'll see what happens this summer.

[mumshquat]

has anyone else been having trouble with cats? i already had to get one warranteed and now i am getting horrible gas mileage which makes me think the ones after the sensor that won't throw a cel are bad. but now i'm at 36,000 so i don't think it will still be warranteed so i'm just waiting for a catback that isn't noisy as hell to be created.

[goldwing2000]

Emission controls (including cats) are federally mandated to be warranteed for 80,000 miles.

That's why the pipes before a cat are so much thicker and better grade than the ones after.

http://www.epa.gov/otaq/consumer/warr95fs.txt

[NewjerseyDv]

I dont know if this has been discused but i am about to go to work and to lazy to check the whole thread......but i have had my 3 for about 7 months and I have about 4900 miles on it (hehe 17 year old here!).....well about 2 months ago i started to notice a rattle comeing from the belts on the left side of the engine. its bad when its cold and get a LITTLE better when it warms up. but its is still a squeel. I took it to the dealer and all of a sudden it wouldnt squeel for anything (what my luck)....any ideas?

[scott007]

(eyeballs) <sigh> <SIGH>, I guess the Mazda 3 is out for me then. I suppose it's gonna have to be a Toyota or the cheap plasticy looking Civic.
Ive had my Mazda since they came out, I've got over 18kmiles.The only problems I have with the car is the passenger door rattles a little To much BASS i guess . other than that not one single performance problem at all.

If I just had enough $$ to get the few parts I want All the civic owners would pee their pants,,,LOL LOL

[blondee_yvr]

NewjerseyDV, get your car to the dealer asap. You only have a 12 month rattle warranty.

[NewjerseyDv]

NewjerseyDV, get your car to the dealer asap. You only have a 12 month rattle warranty.

lol are you shitting me! Mazda has a rattle warranty haha thats awsome! Should I get my flux compasitor checked while im there too?

[Shakespeare72]

I got my Mazda back from the dealership Friday. They said the problem was that a wiring harness was pulled loose out of the PJB Box. They said they couldn't find a reason for the other warning lights to come on and they couldn't recreate it in the shop. I drove it home Friday and it sat in the driveway all weekend.

This morning (monday) when I was ready to leave for work, I got in and it wouldn't start. I had power, my lights, radio, and all instruments seemed to be working fine but the car would not start. I had to call my mother-in-law for a ride so I could pick up her car and leave her stranded at work. When we got home, we were able to get the car started, but all of the warning lights came on and stayed on again. By the time I got it to the dealership for repairs, only the engine light was still on. They put me in a rental, my only requirement was that the rental not be a Mazda and said they would keep it for a few days and see if they can get to the root of the problem. I told them they had better get Japan over here soon.

Okay, you might want to stop here but if you'd like to read the funny story about my ill temper, read on...

Here's the kicker. The technician at the dealership recognized me from Friday and said, "what's wrong with your car now?" I reminded him that I told him on Thursday that it was a piece of crap. He asked if the same thing was wrong and I said, "yes, I told you it was a piece of crap and I'm not back here because it suddenly isn't." Okay, that was a little rude but then he had the audacity to suggest that the problem might be the key and I should bring both keys in. He wanted me to bring the other one in tomorrow. I informed the dear man--and I use the term dear man only because the correct term wouldn't be appropriate--that the same key that wouldn't start it this morning was used to drive it in this afternoon. He said, "well, I need both keys." That's when I kinda lost it, because when I made the appointment no one suggested that I bring both keys in. I made no little show of my disdain as I told him that if he needed another key, he could very well make his own as I would not be driving the hour through traffic to bring another one up there and if that was not sufficient, he could pick it up at my house before I leave tomorrow morning.

[Shakespeare72]

Oh, I forgot to add. I'm at almost 3900 miles and "NO PAINT CHIPS." I'd better knock on wood. Also the A/C seems to hold up fine to these warm Texas winters. Can't wait to see how it handles August. Assuming I still have the car and haven't made Mazda give me my money back so I can go by another Nissan. Hmmm someone mentioned the Civic. I owned one of those once it got (and this is no lie) 40 miles to the gallon and didn't give me a lick of problems. I only traded it in because it was getting old and I wanted something new.

[menus87]

i have an 06 5dr. 1 month 1380 miles and no problems yet and hopefully it will stay tht way

[goldwing2000]

I have a new rattle coming from my LF wheel area. Started yesterday. Sounds like a sway bar link.

The car just clicked over 36,000 miles... :rolleyes:

I don't know if I should waste my time taking it in or not. They replaced my strut mounts under the TSB but I think they may tell me to get bent on this one since the Eibachs probably caused the thing to go bad. I may be able to guilt them into fixing it since they were the last ones to work on it (only 5,000 miles ago).

I'll get a price on the links from the cap'n, just in case.

[mumshquat]

now that i'm too lazy to find it again, what causes the hissing? (i finally turned my stereo down so i could hear it...)

[Shakespeare72]

My Mazda 3 has been in the shop since last Monday. That's 10 days this time by my count and a total of 12 days. Friday they called and said they were removing the instrument panel and putting it in the freezer over night, today they said a new speedometer just arrived and they were going to install it tomorrow. Maybe I'll get it back before I make my 4th payment.

I wouldn't recommend a Mazda to my worst enemy. Okay, well maybe to my worst enemy but not to a friend. Woulda, shoulda, coulda, boughta Honda. Live and learn huh.

[takahira]

I just purchased an 06 Mazda3 right after X'mas, and 3 months down the road my car won't start. a few of my buddies had a similar issue, going to take it to the dealer and find out WTF is wrong w/ it. wish me luck, from what I gather it is electrical problems.

*update*

went to Agincourt Mazda, I like their service area, its BIG.. so they can accomodate more vehicles at one time. anyway, found out that the Main Relay isn't working well, minor problem. they tweaked my car till the part arrives in a few days. dang... new car, n' this? hoho... I still love the Mazda3 regardless.

[InFeXIoN]

crazy, i got my endlink replaced under warrenty, and i dont have stock suspension anymore on my protege.

[mjeriko]

If you didnt have a diffuser to begin with, it will make a difference. But many people with an 05 do have a diffuser and the A/C is still weak. You need to have it on level 2. The compressor also cycles on and off every 10 seconds. During this time, only warm air is blowing, hence the poor cooling.

Currently have 05 Mazda 3 5d with ~8k mi. I did notice the weak A/C when I bought the car late summer. It is capable of cooling but it would just guzzle a lot of gas as you'd have to turn it at a pretty high, 3 or 4.

In preping for this summer, I thought I'd charge it with more refrigerant. It is colder now. But I'm still not sure though if this will hold as the days here on the midatlantic coast are still pretty cool.

Charging is kinda' tricky as I had to make sure I don't overcharge. Venting refrigerant is illegal too.... And when you do put slightly too much, you'll notice that your compressor won't come on for longer periods and will also cut off at shorter periods, than it was originally. Soo I did end up charging slightly more so coming from the slightly too much (though in the gauge, I'm still in the "Fill ok" band), I decreased refrigerant to a point where my compressor would cycle on for at least 40s then cut off for 2s-5s (no more than 10s), then repeat cycle. On the gauge, I was reading on the 26-27 psi. Originally operating at 25 psi (which on my guage is borderline between "Add" and "Ok").

The fact that the car is new, I assumed that I have no leaks and my car was initially filled that is slightly low in refrigerant. I will check A/C again next year, and if I lose pressure, I'll have it serviced.

[blondee_yvr]

Currently have 05 Mazda 3 5d with ~8k mi. I did notice the weak A/C when I bought the car late summer. It is capable of cooling but it would just guzzle a lot of gas as you'd have to turn it at a pretty high, 3 or 4.

In preping for this summer, I thought I'd charge it with more refrigerant. It is colder now. But I'm still not sure though if this will hold as the days here on the midatlantic coast are still pretty cool.

Dude, I wish you would've seen this thread here. We're all waiting for someone to test their A/C and post the results. The instructions are near the end of the thread. See here: http://www.autoacforum.com/messageview.cfm?catid=2&threadid=14994

[splitvizion]

does anyone believe that the dealership will fix my carpeting. My original warranty is up but I have the extended warranty to 100,000. Im sure their are others that have had the carpeting problem seeing that it is very cheap carpeting. It is wearing on the inside edge of the dead pedal area, here your right heel is positioned, and where the floor mat connector is.
Thanks
Anthony

[blondee_yvr]

does anyone believe that the dealership will fix my carpeting. My original warranty is up but I have the extended warranty to 100,000. Im sure their are others that have had the carpeting problem seeing that it is very cheap carpeting. It is wearing on the inside edge of the dead pedal area, here your right heel is positioned, and where the floor mat connector is.
Thanks
Anthony

That's a crap shoot, I just passed my one year mark in mid Feb. I once again complained about the crappy wiper blades and how it's not cleaning properly. The blades were replaced in November for the same problem. Now, they wouldn't replaced the blades....and what do they cost, maybe $12? They said it's out of warranty. (ughdance)

[sajack]

That's a crap shoot, I just passed my one year mark in mid Feb. I once again complained about the crappy wiper blades and how it's not cleaning properly. The blades were replaced in November for the same problem. Now, they wouldn't replaced the blades....and what do they cost, maybe $12? They said it's out of warranty. (ughdance)

Wiper refills are what, maybe $4.50? It`s more trouble than that to take the car to the dealer`s service department. Besides, use Rainx AND YOU WILL HARDLY EVER NEED THE WIPERS.

[blondee_yvr]

Right, but there is a TB on the blades not perfomring well in cold weather... The lingo that is being used is confusing cuz they interchange the names (blades and inserts/refills). But, the metal blades could be defective too (warped or something similar).

[Sethlan]

4. Clunk popping into reverse leaving my driveway (Even with a warm up) (if anyone has this problem too please let me know)



I get this too. It happened to me around this time last year as well.
Mazda said it was a bolt that came loose on the trans. (They ended up changing out a few things at that time too, Changed my passenger side front wheel setup too)

I cant remember all the details, but they had to order a few parts in. Fixed free.


Also it is doing it again. When I take the car from 3rd to 2nd I can hear it. as well 2nd to 1st. and from cold start to reverse.

[10dler]

i LOVE my mazda 3...

Hopefully someone can help...
When i first start the car and go there is a hesitation up until around 3000 rpms..then it kicks, almost like youre pressing the gas harder. After the car warms up for a while it doesnt do it....also its usually only in first and second gear. Maybe someone has the same problem and can help...

ALSO, ive noticed a squeek when i shift into second gear...anyone else have that problem?? anyone know what i should do to fix!?

[sajack]

i LOVE my mazda 3...

Hopefully someone can help...
When i first start the car and go there is a hesitation up until around 3000 rpms..then it kicks, almost like youre pressing the gas harder.

You can blame emissions controls on that. I believe it is pretty normal for this particular engine.
My Toyota truck stays in second gear exceptionally long the first time, then operates normally, all because the way it is programmed to comply with federal emissions.

[goldwing2000]

Hopefully someone can help...
When i first start the car and go there is a hesitation up until around 3000 rpms..then it kicks, almost like youre pressing the gas harder. After the car warms up for a while it doesnt do it....also its usually only in first and second gear. Maybe someone has the same problem and can help...

ALSO, ive noticed a squeek when i shift into second gear...anyone else have that problem?? anyone know what i should do to fix!?

The kick at 3,000 isn't a problem. It's the normal functioning of the intake system on this particular vehicle. There's a computer controlled valve that alters the air flow from idle to about 3k when the engine is cold. As sajack said, it's mainly for emission controls.
I like to think of it as my cold-start turbo boost. (thumb)

Don't know about the 2nd-gear squeak but a clutch squeak is common. Where does it sound like it's coming from?

[Lord Ikon]

15 months, 33k miles! My car was used by my wife as a courier car, and after 33k miles there has not been a single issue with the car, at all. Very pleased thus far. I'm about to do the 30k mile checkup, I'll let you know if anything unexpected is found.

[Lord Ikon]

Probably a full 75% of the parts in the Mazda3 are Ford parts.

Just not Ford USA parts. They all come from India, Hungary, etc.

Maybe I'm smoking crack, but I swear I remember the factory sticker saying 95% japan parts.

[Lord Ikon]

My Mazda 3 has been in the shop since last Monday. That's 10 days this time by my count and a total of 12 days. Friday they called and said they were removing the instrument panel and putting it in the freezer over night, today they said a new speedometer just arrived and they were going to install it tomorrow. Maybe I'll get it back before I make my 4th payment.

I wouldn't recommend a Mazda to my worst enemy. Okay, well maybe to my worst enemy but not to a friend. Woulda, shoulda, coulda, boughta Honda. Live and learn huh.

I felt the same way about VW when I had a 2000 New Beetle that ran into $8000 in repair over a 2 year period. However, I've also found that problems like mine are far and between on the Beetle. Don't forget there are people like myself who've had 7 cars, and this Mazda is by far the best and most reliable car I've ever driven. And this is just MY opinion from this one car. I don't think people should judge a car company from a single vehicle. Your dealership's incompetence may not be entirely Mazda's fault, and probably isn't. I personally made the decision to hate Diamler-Chrysler products, but it was researched. I had 4 bad chrysler cars, out of 4. And upon researching other chryslers such as some of the neons I read many bad reports from owners.

I haven't done a whole lot of research on my Mazda3 since owning it, but from the looks of this forum at least, most are happy with their cars, and most problems seem minor and quickly fixed by the dealer.

Before buying any vehicle you should probably read the consumer reports on it. If I were you, and this problem doesn't disappear I would tell the dealership to trade you for a new Mazda3 of the same specs and features, or just give you back the money (which depends on state lemon laws). You may trade to a Mazda3 that is nearly mechanically flawless like my own (knock on wood), and Mazda could redeem itself, or you may end up getting the lemon .1%, it's a gamble.

[blondee_yvr]

15 months, 33k miles! My car was used by my wife as a courier car, and after 33k miles there has not been a single issue with the car, at all. Very pleased thus far. I'm about to do the 30k mile checkup, I'll let you know if anything unexpected is found.

(omg)

That says it all. The car is used by the wife.

Kinda reminds me of the time when someone's wife said she noticed the pretty red OIL light in the dash but assumed that it meant the car having oil. The engine had seized.

Just so u know, the dealer wont replace anything unless there is a complaint about it.

[Lord Ikon]

(omg)

That says it all. The car is used by the wife.

Kinda reminds me of the time when someone's wife said she noticed the pretty red OIL light in the dash but assumed that it meant the car having oil. The engine had seized.

Just so u know, the dealer wont replace anything unless there is a complaint about it.

Well luckily she got a new job and the miles are down to a normal level. Only a scale of 1-10, my knowledge of cars is maybe a 3, other than specs. The tuneup is because I don't know if the tranny fluid is clean, or the levels are good, if the plugs/wires are ok, if there are any leaks, if the wheel bearings (or whatever they're called) are ok. Stuff like that that I'm afraid if I don't notice it will cost a lot later on.

Is the 30k mile checkup worth it? Is there anything I should mention to the dealership to check that they might not normally check?

[blondee_yvr]

Something that is overlooked is getting your brake fluid replaced (flushed). You should do this every two years. Otherwise, follow the manual.

If you've done a regular service as recommended by the manual, you could skip a few things with the 30K mile service. I don't know what the dealer has in mind as he is free to "recommend" what he likes.

Spark plugs also last a long time now too. The book says 75K miles.

I see no mention in the manual when the tranny fluid needs to be replaced. I know it used to be a long, long time ago every two years but now the fluid lasts longer.

Engine coolant needs to be replaced every 4 years or every 60K miles.

In any case, you should get the mechanic to look underneath the car for anything abnormal. There should be no charge since the car is up on the hoist anyways.

For brakes, I usually go to Midas or somewhere else where they examine the brakes free of charge rather than paying the dealer to inspect them for you. If you need new brakes, you can always go back to the dealer or have Midas do them for you.

[p5stockr]

Is the 30k mile checkup worth it? Is there anything I should mention to the dealership to check that they might not normally check?

the 30k checkup is a good idea...even if youve done some of it already..everyone thinks in terms of the dealer just tryin to make some buck,s but keep in mind everything u do there is recorded on computer...if it comes down to warranty running out an something breaking, THAT can make the difference in getting some help an bein told "sorry no warranty"!. My dads the serv mgr at the mazda dealer here, everday they have something come up like that, basically good customers ger helped, the ones that never show uo except for something big or to complain....get nothing.And they DO have leeway for repairs thru mazda after warranty....buts its strictly a call on their part depending on how good a customer youve been...plus it just looks better to have as much done as possible thru the dealer, its good to save money by dealin aftermarket ,but if u ever try arguin about something as to wether not the car is maintained properly, its hard to beat havin the recored of it bein serviced on time by the book right there at yr dealer, cuz if they refuse something that should be repaired or wont help, since mazda does NOT like calls from angry customers!

[Vegasdriver]

One year, some 14,000 miles and flawless!

[vasklar]

I have a 2004 Mazda 3. To close my glovebox, I must pull on the handle while closing the door. It does not close simply by pushing it. Sometimes it opens on its own and it seems not to be closed properly. I took it to the dealership and their initial assessment was that there was no problem. I have seen mentions of this similar problem throughout this thread. Can you all give me your experience with this issue?

[blondee_yvr]

I have a 2004 Mazda 3. To close my glovebox, I must pull on the handle while closing the door. It does not close simply by pushing it. Sometimes it opens on its own and it seems not to be closed properly. I took it to the dealership and their initial assessment was that there was no problem. I have seen mentions of this similar problem throughout this thread. Can you all give me your experience with this issue?

Go to ANOTHER dealer. I had mine replaced under warranty. However, if your warranty has expired, ensure you have back-up to support the problem developed before the warranty ran out.

[unipus]

Okay, guys, maybe you can help me out here with a problem I've been having with dear ol' Mazda customer service. Like most here, I overall love the car and have had very few problems (I do have the wheel clunk, which tends to horrify passengers from time to time, and I do have some annoying issue with my wiper blades being shoddy, but whatever).

Recently, however, I had a REAL problem. Mine is an '05 (26 mo/22000 miles). I noticed the engine was starting to over-rev, while producing less and less actual traction in the wheels. I planned to take the car in ASAP, but I had to work, and over the course of a day, the problem got worse and worse until finally the car was completely inoperable. Turns out it was a clutch failure. So the car had to be towed, and unfortunately at the time it failed it was a long way from home. So it's towed to this dealership in San Bernardino, where they perform about $1200 in repairs, all of which they say is not covered under warranty.

So, end of story, right? Not really. I take the car back from them, drive it back to my office, park. Next time I go to start, it's no go. I have it towed AGAIN. Turns out the starter has gone bad. AND they discovered a cracked engine mount. And I remember that when the San Bernardino dealership gave the car back to me, the engine was already running. Did they already know there was a problem? Hmm.

So basically I'm wondering if someone can give me some pointers here. I emailed and called Mazda about this. The email took 3 weeks to get a response, which was a curt "the clutch is only covered for 12,000 miles". The guy on the phone was fairly rude, unhelpful, told me the same thing, and wouldn't help pass me along to a regional manager, for instance. Flipping through the manual quickly I don't even see where it says the clutch is only covered for 12,000 miles... but okay. Doesn't it seem a bit odd that an absolutely critical component should fail that soon, and not be covered? Also, the fee the dealership charged me is way more than Consumer Report's listed $830. I expect a bit more from a dealership, and in my area, but 50% more?

Anyway, if anyone can make any suggestions for enacting vengeance on Mazda's crap customer service, let me know.

[unipus]

just a bump because I realize I posted my last late on a Friday... not the best time to get a response. (hi)

[SlowPro98]

just a bump because I realize I posted my last late on a Friday... not the best time to get a response. (hi)

http://media.ford.com/mazda/people/bios.cfm?make_id=227

Hope this helps. Be sure to post how things go.

[EnergyUnit]

I have a 2006 3 hatchback, 5 speed. About 12,000 miles on it.

It's the best driving car I've ever had, but it's certainly not the quietest on the highway, has a minor squeek in the dashboard, and it's absolutely horrible on anything but a completely dry road. You lose traction immediately, and the wheel hop makes you think the front end is gonna fall out.

I really surprised I haven't seen more people writing about installing a limited slip.

I've been trying to track down somebody in Massachusetts who can install a Quaife for me.

[ZoomVT]

hey if you are in mass you may want to check the NEPOC section (New England Protege Owners Club) which really is a Mazda fan club and they probably know a few places.
I hear you on the noise... but i love how it handles and i just crank up the music and forget about it.

[glitched]

Got my car March 21, 2007. Brand new 2007 Mazda3s 5spd MT. After 2,000 miles I got the vibrating noise coming from my driver door. Drives me a bit nuts, its intermitant and I only hear it every now and than but I can't stand vibrating or rattling. At around 2,500 miles I hit a sizeable pot hole (LOTS OF construction where I am) and after that started to hear a rattle in the front passenger side. Sounds similar to the vibration/rattle from the drivers side. Visual inspection outside and under the vehicle don't show anything obviously loose but than again I am no mechanic. I do not hear the noise with the windows down, however it could just be the outside road noise and wind covering it up but I'm thinking its window related.

The only other problem I am having is that sometimes the car is difficult about going into REV. I can't figure out whats causing it but sometimes I am locked out of REV even when on a flat surface with clutch fully depressed and brake engaged. I actually have to let it roll a bit for it to come out of REV lockout.

As of May 1st 2007 I have 3,232 miles on the car (Ya I drive 60+ miles a day). So I'm gonna follow the check ups for heavy usage. When I hit the 5,000 mile mark she's going in and I'll have them check everything I have described above out.

I didn't read through the whole thread so if anyone else has a problem getting into REV on the MT let me know. I only saw people having the vibration/rattle in the door issues.

Besides the above minor annoyances this car has been a complete dream.

[knowledge007]

It' interesting...does anyone feel the quality is somehow effected since Mazda is made by Ford? Are these Mazdas made in the USA or Japan?


Just to clear some things up. Ron is correct. the Speeds and the Mazda 3 are the only production lines that are manufactured and assembled in Japan.

Also if your VIN does start with a J, then yes your vehicly is a bonified import....(rei)

[Mean3]

Bought my car May 8 2006 ... Got it with 2 miles fresh off the truck ... 25,400 miles on it today ... Not a single problem with or without my mods ... Mine is a 5 Speed A/T

[M3 5MT]

2004 MZ3s Manufactured in May 2004.

48,000 Miles, no problems...except....

After getting my tires rotated last fall, going over 55mph on the highway means serious steering wheel vibration....as if I'm driving a 1990 Isuzu trooper.

Swapped to the winter wheels this past winter, and it went away, put the summers on, all is well, got 2 tires patched a week ago, drove onto the highway, and its UNBEARABLE.

Test driving a Speed3 today, so I dont care about fixing it yet because I getting into a Speed3 ASAP.

[takahira]

Anyone had the problem where the clock starts to malfunction?

[knowledge007]

no

[Emychell]

I've got a 2005 with 35,000 miles on it. Absolutely no problems(dance)

[Mike McAlice]

2004 MZ3s Manufactured in May 2004.

48,000 Miles, no problems...except....

After getting my tires rotated last fall, going over 55mph on the highway means serious steering wheel vibration....as if I'm driving a 1990 Isuzu trooper.

Swapped to the winter wheels this past winter, and it went away, put the summers on, all is well, got 2 tires patched a week ago, drove onto the highway, and its UNBEARABLE.

Test driving a Speed3 today, so I dont care about fixing it yet because I getting into a Speed3 ASAP.

Its obviously a problem with the tires. If it happened after you got them rotated I don't really know why...but I did have that problem myself once before. I had a disfunctional tire that had the tread pull away and form an air pocket in the tire. See if the rattling gets worse when you turn a certain degree in one direction.

[knowledge007]

just broke 11100 with my beast...hehe

[jfarhang]

Wow! Dealer addressed all my problems with new parts.
Service report:

CAUSE - RECALL - AIR BAG SENSOR
CORRECTION - REPLACED CRASH ZONE SENSOR AS PER RECALL 2304J

CAUSE - BRAKE NOISE
CORRECTION - REPLACED CALIPER MOUNTING FOR FRONT BRAKES AND FILED DOWN EDGES

CAUSE - CEL - INTERNAL FAILURE
TECH DIAGNOSED AND RETRIEVED CODE P2404-EVAP PUMP
CORRECTION - REPLACED EVAP PUMP

CAUSE - BELT NOISE
CORRECTION - REPLACED ALTERNATOR BELT
i aslo have a hissing sound coming from the front of the car.

What did the:

CAUSE - CEL - INTERNAL FAILURE
TECH DIAGNOSED AND RETRIEVED CODE P2404-EVAP PUMP
CORRECTION - REPLACED EVAP PUMP

CAUSE - BELT NOISE
CORRECTION - REPLACED ALTERNATOR BELT
FIX?

[jfarhang]

I tried for 3 hours to isolate the rattle when changing out the stock speakers but i cant seem to find it. Does anyone know exactly where it is coming from? All I came up with is if the door is open and you are looking at the inner door panel the sound is coming for the lower left. Do i need to take the door completely apart? Would dynamat help?

[Nokkers3]

I always go over speed bumps and dips slowly. Even with going slow, the car still hops like crazy. The front end just seems to drop out and my keys rattle around as if I just flew over it at high speeds. My car is an 07 with 8800 miles on it. Is that something worth having the dealership look at?

[FrancoNemo]

hmmm you guys all have bad things to say. i guess we all but we cant complain for the price we are buying these cars they have turned out to be the Shit! i love my 3!
i have had couple of problems and could have some complains..

-my sub does make things rattle and sound like something in the drivers area is loose.

-the motor mount sucks!

-squeeky noises inside the car makin me feel in my old project Integra

-5th gear blows we need a 6th to save some gas. 80 and above cars RPM are over 3500 which just wastes ur gas and can be annoyin if you have an exhaust.

-alot of break dust

-and the biggest problem i would sad was the reverse light switch which is clicked on by a spring the rod clicks when u put it in reverse broke leaving my reverse lights on for about 2 hrs non stop causing the housing to melt! so i had to take it to the dealer and order the part and im getting it replace but since i had them painted blk i had to take the paint off which was a b***ch and 12 bucks... (warranty covered everything so far. but the 12 bcusk for the paint remover s**t)

this was when it was messed up...

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/5168/dsc02015wq8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
u can barely tell but the inside looks melted...
http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/1346/dsc02014lq6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/9828/dsc02016be6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)


after taking off the paint

http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/1216/photo0178xa4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/4461/photo0179pf1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123700955

other than that i love my 3!!!
-im saving $110 bucks a month just in car payments (had a Nissan Frontier Crew Cab long bed)
-$50 bucks a month in insurance
-about $22 every gas tank
-and i get to enjoy a way smoother ride! so thats priceless!

gotta say i love my 3 by far the most fun car.. (shit idk muddin in the frontier every weekend was too much fun)

[Nokkers3]

I love my speed3 too! Honestly, these things are minor issues that I really don't even pay attention to anymore.

[heggie]

I've got 18,000 miles on a 2007 MS3. Love the car! I've had to replace an oxygen sensor; no biggie. The squeaky rear suspension is really annoying, though. It has got better with warmer weather (I'm in Idaho) but is still there. I have read other posts that said they had the rear bushings replaced, but it still squeaked.

Nearest dealer is 200 miles away; so it is a bit inconvenient.

[08cosmic3]

Speed 3 is the way to go.


2004 MZ3s Manufactured in May 2004.

48,000 Miles, no problems...except....

After getting my tires rotated last fall, going over 55mph on the highway means serious steering wheel vibration....as if I'm driving a 1990 Isuzu trooper.

Swapped to the winter wheels this past winter, and it went away, put the summers on, all is well, got 2 tires patched a week ago, drove onto the highway, and its UNBEARABLE.

Test driving a Speed3 today, so I dont care about fixing it yet because I getting into a Speed3 ASAP.

[08cosmic3]

I'm new, only had my speed for 2250 miles and have no issues, not even a squeak.

Scott.

[NortzideMS3GT]

3300 miles- Dealership messed my frontside oil cover while changing my oil. At the same time they knicked a belt, and it was sqauking like crap.

5000 miles- Turbo seals went, HEAVY SMOKE.

5300 miles- Seat handle broke- replaced the whole seat.

5600 miles- Noise on windshield- fixed

10,000 miles- I replaced the motormount, and not a moment too soon, stock mount had a crack in it and was bending.

13000 miles- Rear suspension clunks and crunches over bumps- ended up replacing the RR shock absorber, mount and bracket.


currently at 13900. No problems since i got the car back, though i got it back yesterday.

I have a 07 red speed three.

Do you all think i may qualify for a lemon law?

[3forspeed]

i have an 06' mazda3 with about 40,000 miles on it.

1. front wheel squeaking like im driving a NY cab. Do i have to get new pads?
2. clanking in the back on even slightly bumpy roads. Got it checked out and they said nothing was loose. Is there something wrong with the springs?
3. Recently, when i turn on the car sometimes, the startup is really really weak. It usually start pumping at 2500 rpm. But sometimes when i start it, it putters on to a little over 1000 and then dips to around 500rpm and wont move properly so i have to turn it off and start it up again until it starts normally. Still though, the engine is different now. I can feel it shaking when im in park. it used to be quiet and smoothe.

The third one concerns me especially. I just took it to the dealer and got some cap replaced and i havent gotten any maintenance done on it yet besides routine oil changes. I thought maybe the spark plugs but those dont need replacing until 75k. help me out.

Also is any of this still under warranty? it's been about 37 months and 40k.

[Bobospeed3]

I don't even have 1000 miles on my speed3, but already I'm starting to hate this thing. Talk about poor build quality. I've got so many different sounding rattles, I don't even know how to track them all down. Otherwise, it is a nice car. Fun to drive, economical, and sporty. I just hope you like loud music.

[Tracers]

Anyone had the problem where the clock starts to malfunction?


YES!
I took it back to the dealership a few weeks after I bought it in 2006, and they told me it wasn't physically possible & made me feel stupid for asking about it (NEVER go to North Shore Mazda, Vancouver) Every 6 weeks or so it goes back about 20 minutes.

Also...

-at 80,000 the transmission mounts broke (warrantied)

-at 85,000kms the front wheel bearings went- North Shore Mazda insisted there was nothing wrong with it (again) and luckily I went with my gut and got a second opinion from Metrotown because it would've caused serious damage if I didn't. ($400)

-at 90,000kms the automatic transmission computer BLEW ($1400 + 12 days wait for part!)

-and today at 101,000kms the engine light came on. If it isn't the gas cap I'm going to see about the Lemon Laws here in BC.

I used to love my car, but now I have no confidence in it at all!

[Google]

-at 80,000 the transmission mounts broke (warrantied)

-at 85,000kms the front wheel bearings went- North Shore Mazda insisted there was nothing wrong with it (again) and luckily I went with my gut and got a second opinion from Metrotown because it would've caused serious damage if I didn't. ($400)l!
Man, that really sucks.

What were the symptoms with your tranny mounts (auto or manual)?
The same with the front wheel bearings? What made you suspect it was the wheel bearings when Morrey didnt think so.

[Amemiya]

I hate to make a holy huge revive to this thread, but my 2005 3 has some annoyances of it's own. 1) Brakes squeak like there is no tomorrow whenever it is wet outside. (A known problem I believe). 2) The section of dash below the shifter rattles all the time. 3) Glovebox rattles a lot.

[Google]

Mazda3s love to rattle, especially around the driver's seat belt area and glove box. Looks like my drive belt tensioner is going but it never wants to mishave at the dealer unless it stays the night.

[meicalnissyen]

Rattles and squeaks drive me nuts.

It' interesting...does anyone feel the quality is somehow effected since Mazda is made by Ford? Are these Mazdas made in the USA or Japan?

mazda is not made by Ford (cap inserted for my canadian friend)

ford has a 25% interest in mazda

[my3needsaname]

You might not want to ask me but...
8 months
4,840 miles
18+ trips to the dealer service department for ONLY warranty work (of which they fixed nothing)
1 meet with Mazda North America Customer Service District Manager
and it still is crapping on me...

[c0de]

mazda is not made by Ford (cap inserted for my canadian friend)

ford has a 25% interest in mazda

In fact Ford has 33.9% stake in Mazda, which in Japan makes it the controlling interest.

Ford lately announced that it's to sell part of it's Mazda stocks though.

[dperikic]

YES!
I took it back to the dealership a few weeks after I bought it in 2006, and they told me it wasn't physically possible & made me feel stupid for asking about it (NEVER go to North Shore Mazda, Vancouver) Every 6 weeks or so it goes back about 20 minutes.

Also...

-at 80,000 the transmission mounts broke (warrantied)

-at 85,000kms the front wheel bearings went- North Shore Mazda insisted there was nothing wrong with it (again) and luckily I went with my gut and got a second opinion from Metrotown because it would've caused serious damage if I didn't. ($400)

-at 90,000kms the automatic transmission computer BLEW ($1400 + 12 days wait for part!)

-and today at 101,000kms the engine light came on. If it isn't the gas cap I'm going to see about the Lemon Laws here in BC.

I used to love my car, but now I have no confidence in it at all!

I have a problem with bearings too,
Anyone replaced bearing and wheel hub with "Timken"?

I own mazda 3 1.6 cd (turbo diesel) 2005 .
Replaced under warranty:
Clutch
Turbocharger
Clock unit


I didn' know I bought Ford untill I saw ford logo on allmost every part of engine. (the manual says that owners should use only genuine mazda air filter, oil filter ... etc. or they loose warranty. "Genuine" mazda air filter has Great BIG Ford logo on it) in fact , this engine is used in ford , mazda, peugeot, citroen, bmw, mini ...

[BurnoutX]

nothing as big as it was but: i had a leaky oil pan seal that had to be fixed under warrantee

[goldwing2000]

I have a problem with bearings too,
Anyone replaced bearing and wheel hub with "Timken"?

Timken are good bearings. You shouldn't have a problem.

[dimples]

I've had a 2005 Mazda 3 Winning Blue 5 door for over four years now. Car only has 49,000 miles on it. It's a blast to drive and a fun little car, but it's definitely plagued with some annoying issues. It's failed to pass state inspection twice before it was three years old!

The PCV was replaced under warranty one time. Then we had a terrible gas smell because of another emissions part failure and the dealer sat on the car for almost two weeks while they replaced a number of emissions parts and the gas tank. They put one of the seals in wrong and the car had to go back all over again. It was a nightmare. The smell was so bad it made my son sick to be in the car. The parts guy told me that this happened to a number of the early cars, but was surprised it "took my car so long" to manifest the problem. (smash)

Now the car needs both front wheel bearings replaced at only 48K miles. Now I'm not letting the dealer touch the car at this point, so I went to pick up the bearings at the dealer. The parts guy told me that they have trouble keeping these on the shelf and that the wheel bearings for this car have already been re-engineered 2 x's since it was built.

The minor issues are the ones everyone complains about. Passenger Door Rattle, Clunky Power Windows, Squeaky brakes when wet, some nasty dash rattles (hopefully the bearing replacement will stop that). Also, the suspension is really noisy when you get in and out of the car (and I'm not huge), and the fuel pump is starting to sing. Glove box doesn't like to stay closed, and now the clutch is getting pretty noisy. And yes, my clock LOVES to lose time!

My father is a mechanic and has pretty much told me that the car is a piece of crap. And to you folks say that this car isn't a Ford, you are partially right. This car shares MANY parts with Ford and some safety parts with Volvo. This platform was one of Ford's first "World Car" platforms.

Now all this said, I still love my 3 for it's style and personality, but not its reliability or quality (sounds like I'm talking about my old 16v Scirocco!). I don't think it will hit the almost 200K miles my Honda Civic had at trade-in. Sure hope it stays together, though, as my son is looking forward to getting the car in about 4 years!

[bani]

mazda is not made by Ford (cap inserted for my canadian friend)

ford has a 25% interest in mazda

the mazda3 dips quite heavily from the ford parts bin. anyone working on the car will see plenty of FoMoCo stamps all over.

[my3needsaname]

I've had a 2005 Mazda 3 Winning Blue 5 door for over four years now. Car only has 49,000 miles on it. It's a blast to drive and a fun little car, but it's definitely plagued with some annoying issues. It's failed to pass state inspection twice before it was three years old!

The PCV was replaced under warranty one time. Then we had a terrible gas smell because of another emissions part failure and the dealer sat on the car for almost two weeks while they replaced a number of emissions parts and the gas tank. They put one of the seals in wrong and the car had to go back all over again. It was a nightmare. The smell was so bad it made my son sick to be in the car. The parts guy told me that this happened to a number of the early cars, but was surprised it "took my car so long" to manifest the problem. (smash)

Now the car needs both front wheel bearings replaced at only 48K miles. Now I'm not letting the dealer touch the car at this point, so I went to pick up the bearings at the dealer. The parts guy told me that they have trouble keeping these on the shelf and that the wheel bearings for this car have already been re-engineered 2 x's since it was built.

The minor issues are the ones everyone complains about. Passenger Door Rattle, Clunky Power Windows, Squeaky brakes when wet, some nasty dash rattles (hopefully the bearing replacement will stop that). Also, the suspension is really noisy when you get in and out of the car (and I'm not huge), and the fuel pump is starting to sing. Glove box doesn't like to stay closed, and now the clutch is getting pretty noisy. And yes, my clock LOVES to lose time!

My father is a mechanic and has pretty much told me that the car is a piece of crap. And to you folks say that this car isn't a Ford, you are partially right. This car shares MANY parts with Ford and some safety parts with Volvo. This platform was one of Ford's first "World Car" platforms.

Now all this said, I still love my 3 for it's style and personality, but not its reliability or quality (sounds like I'm talking about my old 16v Scirocco!). I don't think it will hit the almost 200K miles my Honda Civic had at trade-in. Sure hope it stays together, though, as my son is looking forward to getting the car in about 4 years!
I agree with that to the death...of the car, not me. :p
As for everything else, I agree with that too. The car is crap but it's a nice car. I wouldn't trade it for anything else in its segment but that being said it would be gone in a second if I had an opportunity to dump it for a truck, SUV, or a large sports oriented sedan. I mean there's only so much you can take when the dealer can't fix it before you just say screw this, go die car and dump it or get really close to doing so.

[inattika]

used to love the m3! no problems at all and i am at 38800k (07 mazda). I just had one issue ...one day my airbag deployed for fun while i was driving on the highway. (short circuit)
yeahh, im not so in love with it anymore....

[goldwing2000]

Awesome! That sounds like there should be a safety recall!

[Amemiya]

EDIT: Fixed that...

[bigjae1976]

Not a serious issue but I think the cloth and carpet are quite crappy. My interior is subject to abuse from my 5 y/o daughter but still. It looks like its 10 years old and my car is only a year old.

[Miller Time]

LOL - unless you've owned a Millenia, you don't KNOW what frustration is...although Shakespeare is close (see my sig). Ever had a parts manager look you in the eye and ask for $5K for a supercharger? Then tell you it that's the SALE price...down from $7K?

Ahem...anyway -- just picked up an 07 Mazda3 Sport with a manual tranny. I just love the way this car drives...except for one thing. The car has a scary tendancy to hop its rear end sideways on uneven pavement. My wife just about lost it on some broken up pavement on the 401 last week.

I can't figure it out and am going to head to a dealer for a look. Basically it tracks great until you hit a big crack in the pavement then the rear end jumps sideways. Very much like the handling you can get on washboard gravel roads where the car just begins to drift sideways due to the constant hammering. Only with this car all it takes is a single thump. It has to hit both rear wheels at once though. As single pothole under one wheel won't do it.

After the bump and jump, you can feel the vibrations up through the steering column too and they continue for a second or two past the bump as the impact reverberates through the car's body for what seems like an extended period of time. I've driven behind the car to watch the rear wheels and bumps seem to trigger a lot of hammering up and down. It feels and looks for all the world like the rear shocks are shot. But if you push down on the back of the car it's all very firm and the car only has 50K km on it.

The car has 17 inch rims and 45 series tires. Is this a factory setup? Seems like big wheels for a car this size. I'm not up on the specs for the various 3 models. They do look factory though and the car was advertised by the dealer as a GT if that helps. I wonder if it's those 45 tires. Maybe those low sidewalls are just too stiff for the suspension and so launch the relatively light rear end over rough pavement?

Anyway, that was my first thought. My second was that perhaps the air pressure was too high. The door sill says 32 psi and I discovered they were closer to 40. Letting them back down to 32 has hardly made a difference at all. My third thought was that perhaps the previous owner did a bad job of installing some performance suspension mods. The car's suspension doesn't appear to have been lowered or otherwise altered, however.

I'd love to hear any other ideas. Other than some complaints about front wheel hop on previous pages, no one has mentioned this particular problem.

[hworth18]

Not a serious issue but I think the cloth and carpet are quite crappy. My interior is subject to abuse from my 5 y/o daughter but still. It looks like its 10 years old and my car is only a year old.

Yeah, I noticed that after about a year.. The drivers side carpet is REAL thin and already had holes in it after 3 years along with the factory floor mats. The leather seats seem fine, but I have the same typical rattles and annoying squeaky brakes. BTW, will aftermarket pads fix the squeaky brake problem?

[Google]

I dunno if this is a common problem but it's happened twice already. My 3 has a rain/light sensor in the windshield. A few years ago my windshield developed what looked like a glue leak coming from the sensor. The windshield and sensor were replaced under warranty. Now, I have the same thing happening but it's just starting out as a bubble. I have no idea why it's happening since I havent seen any other 3 with this problem.

[mollymazda]

YES!
I took it back to the dealership a few weeks after I bought it in 2006, and they told me it wasn't physically possible & made me feel stupid for asking about it (NEVER go to North Shore Mazda, Vancouver) Every 6 weeks or so it goes back about 20 minutes.

Also...

-at 80,000 the transmission mounts broke (warrantied)

-at 85,000kms the front wheel bearings went- North Shore Mazda insisted there was nothing wrong with it (again) and luckily I went with my gut and got a second opinion from Metrotown because it would've caused serious damage if I didn't. ($400)

-at 90,000kms the automatic transmission computer BLEW ($1400 + 12 days wait for part!)

-and today at 101,000kms the engine light came on. If it isn't the gas cap I'm going to see about the Lemon Laws here in BC.

I used to love my car, but now I have no confidence in it at all!

I have black mica 2008 mazda 3 gt 5 door with navi and remote start. If I try to unlock my doors during the start up procedure my clock show all pound signs and I have to restart the car to correct. I haven't dealt with the dealership about it yet because i felt it was because i was being impatient. the onlt other problems i have had my passenger seat buckle was shorting out making a noise and my power steering pump went out at 20,000 miles. apperantly they had an issue will makeing the power steering lines and they started to rust prematurely and when the rust flake frees it chew up rthe impeller. also the pump was on a global back order and it happened in the middle of my pcs transfer to florida. it broke down in oklahoma and was told by mazda that they could not release the car to me due to liability issues. i had to report to my duty station in five days so i had to leave the car behind and was told to get a rental in florida. half way through arkansas mazda south west region called me to say that i can only pick up a rental where the car is and i am sol and that the wait was roughly 3 months for the pump. by now i was furious since this is my only car, so i called mazda customer service and oppened up a case with them. i had informed them that i was going to contact base legal and talk to a jag lawyer to review my legal options. so mazda called me back in 2 hours and told me that my case had made it to mazda usa's CEo's desk and he promise that my car would be fixed in three days since i was in a special situation. non the less i still had to pay to have some one bring my car to me from half across the us, but atleast i did not have to wait three months. i pretty much jump 5 cars on the list for parts at that dealer ship. other than that the car is great. if the dealerships give you problems call mazda customer service and they will take care of you. they can pull more strings than the repair manager. there number is in owners manual.

[sunrun176]

[SNIP]

Ahem...anyway -- just picked up an 07 Mazda3 Sport with a manual tranny. I just love the way this car drives...except for one thing. The car has a scary tendancy to hop its rear end sideways on uneven pavement. My wife just about lost it on some broken up pavement on the 401 last week.

I can't figure it out and am going to head to a dealer for a look. Basically it tracks great until you hit a big crack in the pavement then the rear end jumps sideways. Very much like the handling you can get on washboard gravel roads where the car just begins to drift sideways due to the constant hammering. Only with this car all it takes is a single thump. It has to hit both rear wheels at once though. As single pothole under one wheel won't do it.

After the bump and jump, you can feel the vibrations up through the steering column too and they continue for a second or two past the bump as the impact reverberates through the car's body for what seems like an extended period of time. I've driven behind the car to watch the rear wheels and bumps seem to trigger a lot of hammering up and down. It feels and looks for all the world like the rear shocks are shot. But if you push down on the back of the car it's all very firm and the car only has 50K km on it.

So, basically you're saying that, when taking a curve on the freeway at speed (assuming >speed-limit) and you hit a pavement seam with both left and right tires simultaneously (meaning they both lose contact with the road surface for an instant) the lighter rear end of the car seems to slip out a bit? It seems to me that this is what would happen to any car in a similar situation. Additionally, it sounds like a pretty big pavement seam if it's having that much impact on the handling through the turn. Again, on the assumption that you're exceeding the posted speed limit for the turn (and why wouldn't you, right? (glare) I mean, that's where the fun is!), it might be worth exploring what happens if taken at the posted speed limit.

There's a curve in the highway near me that I looove pushing through without slowing down (50MPH curve taken at 65-70MPH) just because I can, and there's a seam a bit more than half-way through it. When I hit it, the back end definitely reacts more than the front does, but it doesn't shudder the way you describe -- it slips and then digs right back in, which can be jarring if it's not expected. When I take the same curve at the posted 50MPH, the seam has basically no effect.

So, maybe there is something wrong with your rear shocks... (dunno)


The car has 17 inch rims and 45 series tires. Is this a factory setup? Seems like big wheels for a car this size. I'm not up on the specs for the various 3 models. They do look factory though and the car was advertised by the dealer as a GT if that helps. I wonder if it's those 45 tires. Maybe those low sidewalls are just too stiff for the suspension and so launch the relatively light rear end over rough pavement?

Anyway, that was my first thought. My second was that perhaps the air pressure was too high. The door sill says 32 psi and I discovered they were closer to 40. Letting them back down to 32 has hardly made a difference at all. My third thought was that perhaps the previous owner did a bad job of installing some performance suspension mods. The car's suspension doesn't appear to have been lowered or otherwise altered, however.

If the wheels appear to have a 5-spoke "snowflake" pattern (each spoke splitting into a 'Y' toward the outside), then they're factory (see my sig pic). And yes, the Sport GT comes with 17's, but the factory tire size for them is 205/50R17. I'm betting the current tires are something like 225/45R17, which will fit with minimal trouble, but will also necessarily change the handling aspects, although I would think it would make them more grippy, not less. (uhm)

And, yeah, 40PSI is way too high to run the tires -- harsh ride and poor handling, especially over bumps in a turn. Had a silver 04' M3H that had an overinflated mismatched set of tires when we bought it used two years ago. Rode like crap until I set them at 32PSI and the center of the tread was almost worn to the bars with plenty of tread left on the outsides. I'm surprised that you didn't notice any difference at all after lowering the tire pressure. (uhm)


I'd love to hear any other ideas. Other than some complaints about front wheel hop on previous pages, no one has mentioned this particular problem.

In my experience, front wheel hop seems to have more to do with the tire, the road conditions and the weather than anything to do with the suspension, at least with this car. The factory BadYear RS-As never gave me a lick of wheel hop if I stomped on it, but that was largely due to them sucking and preferring to spin instead, instantly engaging the TCS. The new tires I have (Dunlop SP Sport Signatures) have given me some hop, but only on damp pavement with no standing water with an ambient temperature ~50ºF.

I hope at least some of this helps. :)

[Miller Time]

Thanks sunrun for the lengthy discussion and ideas.


So, basically you're saying that, when taking a curve on the freeway at speed (assuming >speed-limit) and you hit a pavement seam with both left and right tires simultaneously (meaning they both lose contact with the road surface for an instant) the lighter rear end of the car seems to slip out a bit? It seems to me that this is what would happen to any car in a similar situation....

Heh, heh - not saying I'm averse to a little extra hot sauce on the odd ramp, but, alas, no - this condition will present itself at speeds as low as 60 km/h on very average sized expansion joints, potholes, broken pavement, etc...




So, maybe there is something wrong with your rear shocks... (dunno)



Today during my 48K service Mazda diagnosed bad struts. How they went bad at this low mileage is anyone's guess. They will be replaced under warranty. When I get the car back tomorrow I'll fling it about a bit to see if that indeed is the problem.





If the wheels appear to have a 5-spoke "snowflake" pattern (each spoke splitting into a 'Y' toward the outside), then they're factory (see my sig pic). And yes, the Sport GT comes with 17's, but the factory tire size for them is 205/50R17. I'm betting the current tires are something like 225/45R17, which will fit with minimal trouble, but will also necessarily change the handling aspects, although I would think it would make them more grippy, not less. (uhm)



Right on both counts, sir. My wheels are exactly like yours and the tires are indeed 225 45 17s.

My fear was that the dealer would notice these right off and blame the non-standard rubber as I've noticed when diagnosing problems they usually look for the quickest answer requiring the least effort - especially where warranty issues come into play. This time they either didn't notice or didn't care.




I hope at least some of this helps. :)

As I say, much appreciate the time you took to respond. I'll report back after the shakedown (or not!) cruise tomorrow after work.

[ukzmisr]

Hi new to the forum, looking at buying a 1.6 Mazda 3 Diesel. Every interesting reading.
Thought you guys might be interested in this problem concerning Mazda 3's in England

http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=4&t=76964

[Google]

My 06 Mazda is starting to rust too. I live in the west coast and we dont get much snow.

[BlackDethBob]

2007 mazda 3 sedan....2.0L.....drivin it 40,000 miles and drivin it hard for about 15,000 miles....no problems with cops and no problems with mechanical other than the wires to my (aftermarket) intake for the mass airflow sensor snapped in cold weather....simple fix though

[cindyh]

This is the 6th time a low beam headlight has gone out since we purchased our 2004 Mazda 3. It has alternated between the passenger and driver side each time. Searching for answers because Mazda won't give me one. We have paid more than $500 getting headlights fixed and I am sick of it.

[goldwing2000]

This is the 6th time a low beam headlight has gone out since we purchased our 2004 Mazda 3. It has alternated between the passenger and driver side each time. Searching for answers because Mazda won't give me one. We have paid more than $500 getting headlights fixed and I am sick of it.

I'm having the same problem. If you changed them yourself, you would have saved yourself more than $440. It's quite simple to do. The passenger side requires no tools at all and the driver's side needs only a phillips screwdriver to remove the battery vent duct.

[cindyh]

I'm having the same problem. If you changed them yourself, you would have saved yourself more than $440. It's quite simple to do. The passenger side requires no tools at all and the driver's side needs only a phillips screwdriver to remove the battery vent duct.

I am married to someone who knows nothing about cars. Can't blame him, I don't either. But, that is one reason why it cost us so much. He attempted to change out the very first one, and he broke a part. He rigged it for a while, but finally had to get the entire light/casing and all replaced at the dealership. Can you pass on instructions or lead me to something on the web? If we could learn how to change it ourselves, that might help me cope with this problem.

[goldwing2000]

I am married to someone who knows nothing about cars. Can't blame him, I don't either. But, that is one reason why it cost us so much. He attempted to change out the very first one, and he broke a part. He rigged it for a while, but finally had to get the entire light/casing and all replaced at the dealership. Can you pass on instructions or lead me to something on the web? If we could learn how to change it ourselves, that might help me cope with this problem.

Oooo... you broke the retaining clip, didn't you? Yeah, you can't buy those separately. Found that out the hard way, myself.

Do a google search for Mazda3 change headlight bulb. It pulls up a LOT of pages. Ignore any time they instruct you to disconnect the battery. That's pointless.

I'd give you links but I'm on a slow connection and can't easily browse through the articles to see what's worthwhile. Try to find one with pictures. The hook that holds the clip isn't visible but once you see how it works, you'll facepalm and wonder why you didn't see how easy it was before. Do some reading and PM me with any questions you have. The passenger side is easier to see, so you can use it as a reference if you need too. A small mirror might help. I can change out a headlight in less than 10 mins, now.

DO NOT read this article: http://www.ehow.com/how_5218903_change-headlight-mazda.html
I don't know what car he's working on but it's not a North American Mazda3.

Here's a good write-up on our "competitor" forum. These dumbasses around here think that forum's name is a bad word, so you'll have to manually copy and paste the link and take out the three asterisks. (braindead http://www.*mazda3*forums*.com/index.php?topic=4139.0

[cindyh]

Oooo... you broke the retaining clip, didn't you? Yeah, you can't buy those separately. Found that out the hard way, myself.

Do a google search for Mazda3 change headlight bulb. It pulls up a LOT of pages. Ignore any time they instruct you to disconnect the battery. That's pointless.

I'd give you links but I'm on a slow connection and can't easily browse through the articles to see what's worthwhile. Try to find one with pictures. The hook that holds the clip isn't visible but once you see how it works, you'll facepalm and wonder why you didn't see how easy it was before. Do some reading and PM me with any questions you have. The passenger side is easier to see, so you can use it as a reference if you need too. A small mirror might help. I can change out a headlight in less than 10 mins, now.

DO NOT read this article: http://www.ehow.com/how_5218903_change-headlight-mazda.html
I don't know what car he's working on but it's not a North American Mazda3.

Here's a good write-up on our "competitor" forum. These dumbasses around here think that forum's name is a bad word, so you'll have to manually copy and paste the link and take out the three asterisks. (braindead http://www.*mazda3*forums*.com/index.php?topic=4139.0

Learning the hard way always sticks with you. Thanks for all the advice. We will see what we can do. I also thought of someone who knows a lot about cars. He is almost always working on one. I could probably ask him to look over our shoulders. Thanks, I feel a little better.

[goldwing2000]

Learning the hard way always sticks with you. Thanks for all the advice. We will see what we can do. I also thought of someone who knows a lot about cars. He is almost always working on one. I could probably ask him to look over our shoulders. Thanks, I feel a little better.

Happy to help.
Where do you live? You might be able to find another member on here who is close enough to lend a hand. Try the regional forums. http://www.msprotege.com/vbb300/forumdisplay.php?f=52

[j0ker]

Sometimes (NOT ALWAYS) my 2004 Mazda3 1.6 Saloon wont start, the starter just whirs as if its broken, I can bump start her no problems and then everything seems fine. This has happened twice now, both times in the afternoon (probably not relevant though). However the next day the car has no problems at all, I have replaced the relay switch for the starter motor in the fuse box under the bonnet but it has done the same since.

[mars local]

$#@@%$ Power Steering.... went out again today..... sigh, stealership appointment on Tues if the parts arrive in time..... =(

[Gibson486]

$#@@%$ Power Steering.... went out again today..... sigh, stealership appointment on Tues if the parts arrive in time..... =(

goodluck. My PS pump has gone out atleast once a month now. All dealerships say they cannot find anything. I f'n hate my car now. The list of TSBs is endless, and the dealer fails to acknowledge any of them.

[Gibson486]

i have an 06' mazda3 with about 40,000 miles on it.

1. front wheel squeaking like im driving a NY cab. Do i have to get new pads?
2. clanking in the back on even slightly bumpy roads. Got it checked out and they said nothing was loose. Is there something wrong with the springs?
3. Recently, when i turn on the car sometimes, the startup is really really weak. It usually start pumping at 2500 rpm. But sometimes when i start it, it putters on to a little over 1000 and then dips to around 500rpm and wont move properly so i have to turn it off and start it up again until it starts normally. Still though, the engine is different now. I can feel it shaking when im in park. it used to be quiet and smoothe.

The third one concerns me especially. I just took it to the dealer and got some cap replaced and i havent gotten any maintenance done on it yet besides routine oil changes. I thought maybe the spark plugs but those dont need replacing until 75k. help me out.

Also is any of this still under warranty? it's been about 37 months and 40k.

FOr number 3, I have the same exact problem and it started at around 40K, too. Took it to the dealer 2 times...they found nothing. Cost me $180. It actually gets worse, though. I am at 65K now....yes over the warranty. Now, sometimes it really sputters, shakes, then stalls during during start up.

[Gibson486]

Mazda3s love to rattle, especially around the driver's seat belt area and glove box. Looks like my drive belt tensioner is going but it never wants to mishave at the dealer unless it stays the night.

same issue here. Dealer says they cannot find anything wrong.

[thejeans]

2.5 years, 50k and no real issues :D

[Google]

2.5 years, 50k and no real issues :D
No real issues, just imagined? LOL.

[thejeans]

only issue i had was self inflicted (and actually a pretty simple fix) other than that nothing has gone wrong with the car

[skipperdz]

2007 Mazda 3s auto touring. at 40k miles (2yrs) my A/C compressor locked up internally. Aparrently this is not all that uncommon from what my mechanic said. 500 for a mazda compressor 500 for a a/c clutch. ugh. my mechanic was able to by the whole unit instead of buying them seperate so it was cheaper. cost my $948. Mazda wanted to charge me 1300, and another place 1400.

Mazda Customer service sucks...I dealt with them for 4 months trying to get some kind of goodwill assistance. no go. this will be the first and only mazda I buy.

currently have 63k miles. just fixed my a/c yesterday. thats a year in swfl heat with no a/c.

[skylar2ups]

same issue here. Dealer says they cannot find anything wrong.

I had this issue and it was a bad battery I had Auto Zone run a test and then bought a new battery totally fixed the problem.

[skipperdz]

They can't find anything wrong because you are STILL under warranty. Once that expires they'll have an entire list of things that need to be changed....like a cabin filter thats 3 years old and a non smokers car! LOL

[sunrun176]

FYI, the cabin air filter only filters the air coming into the cabin through the vent from outside; it does not filter recirculated air.

[luckyu886]

Mine power steering gone out 3 times. Two times I had just started my engine and began to pull out of my parking space and noticed the power steering was out. The 1st time I was driving on the street when it went out. Scary. But luckily I wasn't in traffic and was able to pull over almost immediantly into a nearby business parking lot. My car is just out of warranty so this will be out of pocket for me unless a recall is issued.

Everyone that has this problem should file complaints! The National Highway Traffic Safety Admin is doing an investigation and more complaints will make it more likely for a recall. File your formal complaint here: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm

[urdaily3]

Immediately noticed squeaking rear springs. Powersteering hasn't gone out yet... (however in our rental mazda 3, it has several times mid-traffic!!!!) , other than that it ran fine for a month after we bought it........... until tick,tick,tick.... u know the rest. Now its sitting, while still makin payments and can't afford a replacement engine (can't find nothin under $2200) and oh yeah, the best part, the used dealer we got it from threatened to take us to court if we mentioned it again.

[channelv]

I just filled out the NHTSA form. I didn't have my VIN handy, so I'll likely fill it out again under a family member's name again when I have the car to go get the VIN number from it.

Please fill this out everyone!

[p5stockr]

I have an 06 GT 5door. Im sitting on 129,000 miles and other than eating tires Ive had no real problems at all! I recently had to have a shift solenoid repalced, and another one soon as they are going out an causing hard shifts. 1st one was the 5th gear, waiting on 4th gear part to come in.
actually considering buying a new one if I can find a job closer to home( I drive 90 miles a day)

[mollymazda]

Mine power steering gone out 3 times. Two times I had just started my engine and began to pull out of my parking space and noticed the power steering was out. The 1st time I was driving on the street when it went out. Scary. But luckily I wasn't in traffic and was able to pull over almost immediantly into a nearby business parking lot. My car is just out of warranty so this will be out of pocket for me unless a recall is issued.

Everyone that has this problem should file complaints! The National Highway Traffic Safety Admin is doing an investigation and more complaints will make it more likely for a recall. File your formal complaint here: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm

last week I got a letter in the mail for a recall on the power steering pump. talk to your dealer once parts are fully available they will retro fit your car with new parts. mine went out about a year ago in transit between duty station from sand diego to jacksonville florida. broke down in oklahoma mazda refused to release car to be towed the rest of way. told me it would be about 3 months to get part and offered me a rental car that I could not take out of state, so i had to leave my car at the dealership in a state that i do not even live in when i had to report in 3 days!!!. wtf, I told mazda usa I was goin to call base legal and look into my legal options then mazda usa operations ceo personally called me and appologized and told me my car would be fixed the next day. Nice but I was already 1 state away.

[Diehard]

2 months/ 3500 miles,

noticable vibration from clutch when it's in low gear and low rpm such as stuck in traffic which the dealer couldn't explain why that's happening. Excessive brake dust in the rear, rear tire rub against the fender plastic, these are easy to maintain and one time fix. Other than that, my ride has been fun to drive with.



Is your clutch the original factory clutch ???? CUZ if it aint all it takes is one grease monkey to touch the clutch plate eeven with body oils on the hand let alone grease or other substances and you will have a neverending clutch vibration ---that is NOT indicitave of a Mazda3 --clutch vibration that is ---

[Diehard]

My last 1st gen Mazda-3 was a 2008 GT HB and I love that thing - It was relatively problem free , so these items I mention COULD be attributable to a fender bender I had at 20K . I had somebody back into my car while parked end to end . The damage was no to severe and they just needed to replace the small grille withe the emblem and some bumper work ....but NO mechanical damage at all ? Then at about 41K miles My Bose audio system started acting up it would freeze , not turn on or off and refused to change channels --you name it . They said disconnent the battery and reboot - It worked !!!!! and it seemed good but the CD player was still no spitting CDs back out on demand and it began to act up slightly again ---I traded it for a 2010 . the other thing that was warranty covered was the engine mount on the left side that is visible and touchable when the hood is open . Its liquid filled and that bladder burst and I had this unusual fluid on my garage floor , it was dark blusih/green and I couldnt figure it out.....then they said ..Motor mount ! covered under 5year/60 - but the Bose was NOT.
left the Bose alone and it was working when sold . Lastly I noticed at 48K that in the morning when I started the car it would rev up as if the auto-choke was readying to level off at 1500 rpm's for warm up and it would drop down to 100-200 rpms and go to a near shutdown , shutter and return to idle . Sometimes It would not kick over the first time . BUT if I started it and it did this . Turned it off and restarted , it never would do it twice in the same day UNLESS it was left to cool down completley ! The dealer said that I had been using 91 octane as was not reccomended and the injectors were slightly clogged --they fixed it ?--and that was it --Great Car ..BUT not as great as the 2010 ---the 2010 is a thunderbolt and it flys in a different way than the gen 1s did --different and I like it much more --others disagree and like the go-cart like ride of the gen 1s as they let you know everything that is transmitted thru the tires good and bad---I needed the extra refinement of the Gen2 sorry gettin older now