Quick Responses Please /* read */

[project_msp]

Alright I'm about to purchase some hardpipes and a bov (heard DSMConvert had a nice set with a 5 dollar flange for greddy bovs). I just recently bought gauges, a piller, spark plugs and ima up the boost... so any suggestions other than DSMconvert's products would be helpful... hopefully by tomorrow :) Anyone feel like pursuading me?

[mspeed101]

Turbohoses makes great hardpipes I would look into those! You can find them here www.*************** (http://www.***************)

[project_msp]

Turbohoses makes great hardpipes I would look into those! You can find them here www.*************** (http://www.***************)
Yeah but see. DSMConvert gets hardpipes for 200$ + 5 for a flange (depending on what type of flange). Can't beat that imo :)

But thanks for the response :)

[Spooled]

If you plan on getting an FMIC sometime, hold off and do the pipes at the same time. I have almost bought them so many times, but I really want to go front-mount...

[MSP-Ralfi]

If you plan on getting an FMIC sometime, hold off and do the pipes at the same time. I have almost bought them so many times, but I really want to go front-mount...
same here!

[1FASTMSP]

If you plan on getting an FMIC sometime, hold off and do the pipes at the same time. I have almost bought them so many times, but I really want to go front-mount...
smart man...

[StreetUnit]

Yeah but see. DSMConvert (second) gets hardpipes for 200$ + 5 for a flange (depending on what type of flange). Can't beat that imo :)

But thanks for the response :)
$5 for a GReddy Steel flange??(screwy) MSRP for the GReddy Steel flange is $31.82. Dealer cost for the GReddy flange is not anywhere near $5. I am not sure what kind of flange is being used for those pipes but it isn't GReddy.

Thank you.

[Rich24km]

he said he got a deal on them. He's been in the scene for a while so i'm sure he can pull it off.

[JDM Sam]

knock off copies

[jrodhotrod]

yup, what JDM Sam said, it's probably a mild steel flange, which I am sure is great, but you better get it ceramic coared or painted because otherwise it will rust on your shiny new pipes.

[celdridge]

knock off copies

ditto ... or they are "fell" off the truck special.

[celdridge]

yup, what JDM Sam said, it's probably a mild steel flange, which I am sure is great, but you better get it ceramic coared or painted because otherwise it will rust on your shiny new pipes.


I dont think the 200.00 pipes are shiny... arenty those the black ones?

[warrier04]

i say just get the turbohoses. some things it's worth saving a few bucks, but if you're gonna buy something like hardpipes, work a little harder and throw in a few more bucks for some a real quality product.

drew.

[spicynamja]

Turbohoses. Aluminum is better than steel.

[unwound]

Turbohoses. Aluminum is better than steel.agreed! cannot beat aluminum. mild steel is gonna rust, might take alot longer if powercoated, and stainless weighs too much.

plus cullen and street unit/squatty's has excellent customer service.

[b00sted]

ya i wouldnt get it anywhere else but www.*************** (http://www.***************)

[Bhamsan]

I vote Turbohoses hardpipes from ***************. I wish I had gotten mine there, I ordered straight from Turbohoses before ********** started selling them. Very happy with the product. Remember, you get what you pay for, and those noisy riced out cars are the ones making the short cuts on their car in an attempt to make their car fast for cheap. Don't be those guys.

[mazdaowner123]

Yup, what most people said: Turbohoses Hardpipe kit From www.*************** (http://www.***************).
Steel is not as good as aluminium, which you can see from these tests TurboHoses did:


We also took a temperature reading comparing aluminum vs. steel piping using the stock IC.
Aluminum- 100-108dg. f.
Steel- 135-142 dg.f.
That's from this thread: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77659

Remember, you get what you pay for.

~brian

[wicked]

I won't get myself started on all the reason why you shouldn't get DSM's pipes,but do let me warn you.
for the sake of your engine(especialy if your going to up the boost) get alluminum turbohoses pipes.

take the time to read the link on the thread above,you won't regreat it.

[Spooled]

Agreed that ********** = awesome customer service!

[StreetUnit]

Agreed that ********** = awesome customer service!
We thank you guys...

[wicked]

(nana)

[Bhamsan]

We thank you guys...
You can thank me with a huge discount on my next purchase!

[TX Speed Demon]

If you plan on getting an FMIC sometime, hold off and do the pipes at the same time. I have almost bought them so many times, but I really want to go front-mount...

I agree. I bought a single hardpipe (aircraft aluminum), connectors and a greddy TypeS. All in all I spent about $400 cause I didn't want to shell out the full $900 for the FMIC. After about 6 months I got sick of the fact that I didn't see any true performance gains. I still had hesitation (although less than with stock pipes) and I had spent about 1/2 what it would have cost for a FMIC.

I've since sold the pipe and connectors (for less money than I spent to have them constructed), keeping the BOV and last week ordered a FMIC kit. If I had just waited and saved it all, I could have ordered the FMIC about 2-3 months ago.

I say if you are honestly wanting perfomance gains, wait untill you have enough to buy the real product. If you have money to burn or just want something showy right now, then a hardpipe kit could be right for you.

[wicked]

there is no doubt about FMIC being better then just pipes,but you need to remember there is also aftermarket SMIC for sale now
just look at the gains of turbohoses.

and with the SMIC you will get better throttle response as well.

he just wanted to know what pipes to get

[Bhamsan]

If you're looking to get some big performance gains in future, get a FMIC, it will help you achieve 250-350whp when you upgrade to a gt28rs or gt30 turbo. Otherwise, from all the info I have gathered within the past couple months, I think hardpipes and SMIC is the way to go for the stock turbo running 12 or 13psi. When I bought my hardpipes I wasn't looking for anything big, just maybe 200whp if I was lucky. Now that I know how easy it is to get those big numbers via gt28rs, I am going with a FMIC eventually and I will sell my hardpipes in hopes of reaching 270+whp and low 13s to high 12s at the track.

[alexlitov]

$5 for a GReddy Steel flange??(screwy) MSRP for the GReddy Steel flange is $31.82. Dealer cost for the GReddy flange is not anywhere near $5. I am not sure what kind of flange is being used for those pipes but it isn't GReddy.

Thank you.

Why be so hostile to another vendor??

[StreetUnit]

Why be so hostile to another vendor??
Its not hostility, its PROTECTING members. For people who know Squatty's and myself, know slandor is not how we do business.

http://www.***************/about_us.php

If someone says they are selling a GReddy part, it better be a GReddy part, or else its false advertising. That goes for any item on the market.

Thank you.

[Bhamsan]

Its not hostility, its PROTECTING members. For people who know Squatty's and myself, know slandor is not how we do business.

http://www.***************/about_us.php

If someone says they are selling a GReddy part, it better be a GReddy part, or else its false advertising. That goes for any item on the market.

Thank you.(mswerd) We're not here to rip eachother off.

[StreetUnit]

(mswerd) We're not here to rip eachother off.
(usa)

[wicked]

I slandor!

I slandor companies who do bad bussiness
I slandor companies who produce bad products
I slandor companies who ask for it
I believe if you are going to mod your car do it right and not waste your time on cheap products,or knockoffs.and I sure as hell don't beleive in ripping people off

maybe thats why I don't have my own company,and I get into a lot of fights

I may be am asshole,but I'm an honest asshole.

[project_msp]

Well, seeing as to how I don't want to spend that much on aluminum piping. I might take the "wait till I get an fmic" route. So how about a downpipe? Then I'll stop putting money into my car untill 2 weeks when I get my check :) Then I plan on getting a catback exhaust and maybe some other goodies.... (oh yeah I gotta get new rotors and pads too cause my fronts are warped and I found am rotors and pads (slotted and cross drilled). But i already found those... just waiting to order them... Anyways, thanks for all your suggestions and comments on the hardpipe situation. Probably is better just to wait...

[Bhamsan]

Hold off on getting the hardpipes and go with a DP and catback, or if you have a lot of money to blow and a long time to wait, get iON's turboback exhaust, its the best thing on the market out there, but its damn expensive. Keep in mind though what your realistic goals are for the car. If you want to add a bit more power and keep it reliable and whatnot, then go with hardpipes and a catback or something. If not, make sure you do it right the first time. It can be costly to keep having to replace your aftermarket parts with more aftermarket parts.

[DSMConvert]

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/parts/tweekerparts/flange-greddybov.jpg Those would be the flanges...at no point did I ever claim that they were greddy brand flanges, read the thread it says "greddy flanges" that means a flange designed to fit a greddy bov. Im still unsure as to the temp #s they came up with myself and byondspeed have questioned them about this and they were very vague and would not detail how they went about the testing so that we could duplicate the results, mine nor his testings revealed temps anywhere nears the quoted #s, though they were higher than the aircraft aluminum #s. The only thing we did agree upon was that there was not a single difference in the hp results from dynoing(our #s were done both at stock and 10psi). I have contacted several procar engine builders and race engineers(one of these being a local porsche performance shop in **********'s o-town) and everyone of them had the following to say: Aircraft grade aluminum is lighter and does allow for the better transfer of heat, but the gains of this difference are very little and not noticable under general street car applications. They do make a difference in high performace race applications such as lemans, and NHRA. Using a steel or aluminized steel piping scheme will affect neither the performance nor the efficiency of a forced induction street or mild race setup engine. In addition I also contacted another company that sells steel hardpipes by the thousands. http://www.dejontool.com/ And they also confirmed the engineers suggestions. THis company has sold well over 2000 I/C pipe setups to mitsubishis for the past 10 years. Dont you think if there was such a severe problem with steel pipes they would of been out of business by now? But yet people keep coming back and buying from them...In no way am I bashing Turbohoses products with this post, I'm simply defending my own products...in fact I still have my steel pipes from dejon which i purchased in 99 and they still have no rust on the inside or outside(they are powdercoated on the outside). Turbohoses.com/********** offer a hardpipe set that has no possibility of rusting and has a shiny finish for $385(this was the most recent price i could find so forgive me if its changed). I offer a set of hardpipes for 200 that will give you the same performance gains, but will be powdercoated as opposed to chrome and do have the possibility of rust should then get soaked in water(though unless you plan on using them for a hose this is a very slim possibility and covered by our warranty). I should also note in all fairness that my pipes are approx 1.8lbs heavier. I have examined turbohoses pipes and both are of high quality using a mandrel bending machine and quality tig welding. Both of us use SS t-bolt couplings and both use 3 and 4ply hump hoses to connect. I've attempted to stick to the facts as much as possible and keep my personal feelings out of this response, so if street unit or turbohoses feel I have stated or implied something incorrect please let me know and I'll be happy to discuss it one on one. Perhaps the best way to end this once and for all would be for the main players(myself, **********, turbohoses, etc) to get together and come up with a facts sheet considering all aspects of both products and making it a locked sticky thread, then members can read it and make their own decisions, instead of us clogging up threads with continuous debate.

[warrier04]

you're last idea would be a good one.

there are too many threads that either have much of the posts devoted to quabbling (for lack of a better word) between companies or entire threads about them.

having a single place people can go and make decisions would be very helpful.

[msp35]

you're last idea would be a good one.

there are too many threads that either have much of the posts devoted to quabbling (for lack of a better word) between companies or entire threads about them.

having a single place people can go and make decisions would be very helpful.
^^^^^ What he said! (thumb)

[wicked]

dude you got too much time on our hands.
I can be an ass and list at least 5 reasons why your pipes shouldn't even exist,but I'm not.I've done enough of that,so how about I leave this to you;
turbohoses has already posted thier results,so take those results,and yours and you put them on a thread.turbohoses has nothing to prove you,but you do,if you even can.
so take it upon your self,and list some facts about your products.
no more hear say shit.

by the way my post above was not directed entirely to you(your not that special)

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/parts/tweekerparts/flange-greddybov.jpg Those would be the flanges...at no point did I ever claim that they were greddy brand flanges, read the thread it says "greddy flanges" that means a flange designed to fit a greddy bov. Im still unsure as to the temp #s they came up with myself and byondspeed have questioned them about this and they were very vague and would not detail how they went about the testing so that we could duplicate the results, mine nor his testings revealed temps anywhere nears the quoted #s, though they were higher than the aircraft aluminum #s. The only thing we did agree upon was that there was not a single difference in the hp results from dynoing(our #s were done both at stock and 10psi). I have contacted several procar engine builders and race engineers(one of these being a local porsche performance shop in **********'s o-town) and everyone of them had the following to say: Aircraft grade aluminum is lighter and does allow for the better transfer of heat, but the gains of this difference are very little and not noticable under general street car applications. They do make a difference in high performace race applications such as lemans, and NHRA. Using a steel or aluminized steel piping scheme will affect neither the performance nor the efficiency of a forced induction street or mild race setup engine. In addition I also contacted another company that sells steel hardpipes by the thousands. http://www.dejontool.com/ And they also confirmed the engineers suggestions. THis company has sold well over 2000 I/C pipe setups to mitsubishis for the past 10 years. Dont you think if there was such a severe problem with steel pipes they would of been out of business by now? But yet people keep coming back and buying from them...In no way am I bashing Turbohoses products with this post, I'm simply defending my own products...in fact I still have my steel pipes from dejon which i purchased in 99 and they still have no rust on the inside or outside(they are powdercoated on the outside). Turbohoses.com/********** offer a hardpipe set that has no possibility of rusting and has a shiny finish for $385(this was the most recent price i could find so forgive me if its changed). I offer a set of hardpipes for 200 that will give you the same performance gains, but will be powdercoated as opposed to chrome and do have the possibility of rust should then get soaked in water(though unless you plan on using them for a hose this is a very slim possibility and covered by our warranty). I should also note in all fairness that my pipes are approx 1.8lbs heavier. I have examined turbohoses pipes and both are of high quality using a mandrel bending machine and quality tig welding. Both of us use SS t-bolt couplings and both use 3 and 4ply hump hoses to connect. I've attempted to stick to the facts as much as possible and keep my personal feelings out of this response, so if street unit or turbohoses feel I have stated or implied something incorrect please let me know and I'll be happy to discuss it one on one. Perhaps the best way to end this once and for all would be for the main players(myself, **********, turbohoses, etc) to get together and come up with a facts sheet considering all aspects of both products and making it a locked sticky thread, then members can read it and make their own decisions, instead of us clogging up threads with continuous debate.

[Spooled]

dude you got too much time on our hands.
I can be an ass and list at least 5 reasons why your pipes shouldn't even exist,but I'm not.I've done enough of that,so how about I leave this to you;
turbohoses has already posted thier results,so take those results,and yours and you put them on a thread.turbohoses has nothing to prove you,but you do,if you even can.
so take it upon your self,and list some facts about your products.
no more hear say shit.

by the way my post above was not directed entirely to you(your not that special)
I think he had some good points and wasn't trying to bash anyone. If people want to buy TurboHoses parts, they will. If they want to buy DSM's parts, they will. I'm getting sick of clicking on these threads thinking that there is something new an useful to read, only to find out that it's another "my parts are better than your parts" debate. I, for one, am leaning towards HiBoost simply for the fact that they aren't getting drawn into this and are letting their rep sell for them.