PDA

View Full Version : How To: 2.0 Header Installation



Pages : 1 [2] 3

Kansei
09-24-2005, 08:58 PM
just finished installin my OBX and i must say i love, especially coupled with MAzdaspeed axleback, just waiting for my MAM midpipe. as everyone said, those damn spring bolts are a PITA. thank god for Home Depot, completely swapped my studs, washers, bolts after chopping em off. so far a nice even bronzing is occuring. tahnx to everyone for all your feedback and persoanl experience...helped make this less of a nightmare


You can tolerate that racket? I dealt with the Mazdaspeed axleback + header for about a month before I broke down and got the racing beat catback. It sounds great and not too loud now.

Oh and damn you and your even bronzing. I need to polish mine up.

nate0123
09-24-2005, 11:29 PM
I can tolerate that "racket"

it sounds pretty damn good IMO

ZoomZoom03
09-25-2005, 02:03 AM
You can tolerate that racket? I dealt with the Mazdaspeed axleback + header for about a month before I broke down and got the racing beat catback. It sounds great and not too loud now.

Oh and damn you and your even bronzing. I need to polish mine up.

now now dont hate on the even bronzing, i paid dearly for that (friday)
cost me lots of skin and some studs and bolts

sidpro5
10-01-2005, 01:51 AM
no adverse effects are had from running your car with the second o2 messed up

Please explain. I just installed my Ractive header, only to find out that the bung was welded too close to the oil pan to use the Subie fix OR re-install the o2 sensor. I've got a brass plug in the bung, and the sensor zip-tied to my radiator support. Does the CEL only come on if the ECU is detecting TOO MUCH emissions, as opposed to none? Or should I do the MIL/CEL fix just to be safe?

Thanks

Sid

Blade4804
02-14-2006, 09:19 PM
wow 4 months later... i got the OBX too and am about to install it, i heard that if I get a spark plug non fouler and attach it between obx and o2 sensor that it will take the senor out of the exhaust flow and not throw the CEL.. opinions?

bonesmp5
02-14-2006, 09:41 PM
read this ---- it will give you an answer-- (drinks)
http://www.msprotege.com/vbb300/showthread.php?t=123624640&highlight=nonfouler

wow 4 months later... i got the OBX too and am about to install it, i heard that if I get a spark plug non fouler and attach it between obx and o2 sensor that it will take the senor out of the exhaust flow and not throw the CEL.. opinions?

Bala
02-14-2006, 09:53 PM
7 months ... not one problem.
http://www.msprotege.com/members/Bala%20de%20Plata/OBX%20004.jpg

Bala
02-14-2006, 09:54 PM
Wow ... shouda resized that (boom07) Remember to drill out the one that the O2 sensor screws into with a 1/2" bit.

Blade4804
02-14-2006, 11:55 PM
Wow ... shouda resized that (boom07) Remember to drill out the one that the O2 sensor screws into with a 1/2" bit.
did you use two of them?

Bala
02-14-2006, 11:59 PM
did you use two of them?

Yes. They come two to a pack as well. Drill out one of them from the top with a 1/2" bit (be careful of the threads) and screw this one into (on top of) the other. Screw the assembly into the header and then screw in the O2 sensor.

Blade4804
02-15-2006, 12:04 AM
sweet deal, will do that tomorrow!! awesome, thanks bro

Kansei
02-15-2006, 10:04 AM
Damn shoulda gotten the OBX instead of the ractive. My ractive stays as 4 pipes until it's underneath the car, and the fitment on it has it rubbing up against the seam between the block and the oil pan. Plus, it doesn't even have the second O2 sensor bung. I eventually have to get a midpipe so that I can pass emissions testing during the summer.

Blade4804
02-15-2006, 10:10 AM
does OBX header fail inspections in texas? visual or emissions?

Wwing49
02-16-2006, 06:04 PM
does OBX header fail inspections in texas? visual or emissions?

Should just be visual. As long as you have done the second O2 sensor mod (capacitor and resistor) it should pass an OBD2 test. If they strap a snorkle on there, you might have problems.

nate0123
02-17-2006, 09:39 AM
actually if the car is warmed up, the main cat should bring the car to acceptable emissions levels

my car passed the OBDII test with the cap/resistor CEL fix (2thumbs)

Blade4804
02-17-2006, 05:49 PM
I got this header used and noticed that the thread on the EGR connector that connects to the egr pipe, broke or got bend outa shape, only on the first two lines... but enough so i am not able to get the bolt to connect the EGR pipe to fit. is there a shop I can take this too that can clean up the thread or even restore it? or do I have to find and old header and have the shop cut that off and reweld it to the OBX header so i have a good thread to connect to?

Bala
02-17-2006, 10:46 PM
I got this header used and noticed that the thread on the EGR connector that connects to the egr pipe, broke or got bend outa shape, only on the first two lines... but enough so i am not able to get the bolt to connect the EGR pipe to fit. is there a shop I can take this too that can clean up the thread or even restore it? or do I have to find and old header and have the shop cut that off and reweld it to the OBX header so i have a good thread to connect to?

My EGR threads got bent out of shape during the original install. Pick up a small triangular diamond file for a couple bucks at a hardware store and try to clean up and reshape the threads. Mount the header loose to the head to give yourself a little "wiggle" room and thread the EGR fiiting using a little 3in1 oil. Screw it on, back it off, add oil - repeat until it's all the way on. THEN ... snug down the bolts to the head @ 14-16 ft/lbs. Take your time, it will work!

Edit: Image added

http://www.msprotege.com/members/Bala%20de%20Plata/obx7mod.jpg

Blade4804
02-18-2006, 01:10 AM
My EGR threads got bent out of shape during the original install. Pick up a small triangular diamond file for a couple bucks at a hardware store and try to clean up and reshape the threads. Mount the header loose to the head to give yourself a little "wiggle" room and thread the EGR fiiting using a little 3in1 oil. Screw it on, back it off, add oil - repeat until it's all the way on. THEN ... snug down the bolts to the head @ 14-16 ft/lbs. Take your time, it will work!

Edit: Image added

http://www.msprotege.com/members/Bala%20de%20Plata/obx7mod.jpg

ok will try that, did you get your ceramic coated? or chromed? mine is like all purple and stuff..

Bala
02-18-2006, 07:55 AM
ok will try that, did you get your ceramic coated? or chromed? mine is like all purple and stuff..

Jet-Hot ceramic coated: http://www.jet-hot.com/index.html They can coat a header in any condition and make it look like this. However, cleaning yours up with a little elbow grease isn't too hard. People have had good results with light sanding and scotchbrite. After you clean it up (and install it) REALLY wipe it down with a mild degreaser and it should bronze a nice even color.

ZZZOOM!
08-24-2006, 04:12 PM
Most of the problems I ran into were related to keeping up with my son while trying to do this install.
You can immediately see why you get gains just by comparing the two. If your obx header comes with bubble wrap it is a good distractor for your two year old to allow you to continue your install.http://www.msprotege.com/members/ZZZOOM!/comp%20internet.jpg

Be careful when drilling our your nonfouler. I did it with some vice grips over the lawn. It creates a lot of metal shavings that two year olds with bare feet like to step on. This is bad when the wife sees this. She can't care less about my header install.

Can't get the donut off? I didn't feel like buying anotherone. Start with a razor around the edges and tap it in with a hammer all the way around. This will give you enough space to move up to a screwdriver. It came off with some even prying all the way around.
http://www.msprotege.com/members/ZZZOOM!/doughnut%20off%20int.jpg

Parts blast everything. WD 40 works fine. Let it sit for a few minutes. Mark your top O2 sensor connectors. I did not try to see if they are interchangeable but it would suck if they got switched during reinstall.

Needle nose pliers are perfect for disconnecting the O2 sensors. They squeeze in just the right places if ya know what I mean. http://www.msprotege.com/members/ZZZOOM!/o2%20disconnect.jpg

I know this is just little stuff but if it helps someone else out great! The OBX header I got from protegegarage.com did come with a gasket though the description on the site did not say if it would. Thanks again Ken!

Boston5761
08-24-2006, 04:19 PM
tad off topic: does this look like a real obx to you guys?


http://www.msprotege.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=87722

Bala
08-24-2006, 04:50 PM
tad off topic: does this look like a real obx to you guys?


http://www.msprotege.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=87722

Yup.

GMalatrasi
09-23-2006, 01:41 AM
Ken this has to be the best "How-to" I've ever seen, thanks for the headers.

damaster
09-29-2006, 02:53 PM
I got 2 gaskets with my OBX header: one is at the mani end but where does the round gasket go?

nate0123
09-29-2006, 03:16 PM
I got 2 gaskets with my OBX header: one is at the mani end but where does the round gasket go?don't use their gasket

mine blew out after less than a year

OEM replacement is only $18

GMalatrasi
09-29-2006, 03:23 PM
I doubt that Ken would sell anything that's poor quality.

nate0123
09-29-2006, 03:28 PM
The quality of the header is good, and I would still recommend it. But the gasket they provide isn't so great. I'm just sharing my experience to save others aggravation when their engine bay gets noisy and the engine starts ticking under throttle.

Kansei
09-29-2006, 03:29 PM
it goes between the header and midpipe. It replaces the one that will come off with your stock exhaust manifold.

edit: beat to the post

nate0123
09-29-2006, 03:29 PM
it goes between the header and midpipe. It replaces the one that will come off with your stock exhaust manifold.

edit: beat to the postI was able to reuse my stock "donut"

damaster
09-29-2006, 03:37 PM
So with the round gasket that came with my OBX header, I don't need to worry about removing my old "donut"? That would save me a shit-load of trouble...

Now, to tackle the spring bolts...

nate0123
09-29-2006, 03:41 PM
I don't know, I don't think mine came with a round gasket.

Blade4804
09-29-2006, 04:56 PM
spring bolts come off easy... on my car at least...

Kansei
09-29-2006, 07:48 PM
I hate you.. it took me 4 hours, had to blast them off quite destructively.

nate0123
09-29-2006, 08:42 PM
actually mine came off rather easily, it was reinstalling them that was the major bitch

Blade4804
09-30-2006, 01:49 PM
they came off easey and went back on easy, would have been easier if i would have had a deep socket or a ratchet monkey wrech... :D

damaster
10-01-2006, 02:37 AM
Well, I installed my OBX headers today, and here's some details and suggestions:
- I wrapped them with DEI 1" exhaust wrap. Clamped down the wrap with regular stainless steel hose clamps. I then put multiple coats of black DEI HT silicone coating. The coating makes the DEI wrap look a lot nicer and seals the wrap nicely. I'll post pics tomorrow.
- I bought a donut gasket, and spring bolts in advance. Good idea to do this. Unfortunately the NAPA donut gasket didn't end up fitting, but luckily my old donut came off easily from my front pipe with a flat-head screwdriver so I re-used that.
- My spring bolts were a huge bitch to remove! Good thing I bought a propane flame tank in advance (best $10 I ever spent!). I had to use that to really heat the bolts until they were amber. I also sprayed a ton of PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst: http://www.jeepfan.com/reviews/pbblaster.htm I really like this stuff, and I sprayed it on all the rusty bolts I had to remove. The mid-pipe spring bolts were by far the hardest and longest part of this install. Took me 2+ hours to get those 2 bastards off! 4 Northeastern Canadian winters really corroded the shit out of those things.
- My 2nd O2 sensor (under the car) was hard to remove from underneath the car, so I would suggest removing the stock mani and taking off that O2 sensor once the whole mani/pre-cat/front pipe is out of the car.
- I had an extra bracket that connected my pre-cat to my engine block which wasn't mentioned in this install guide. That was a tad difficult to get to.
- The O2 sensor wire connectors are also a little painful to get off, but be patient and remove the clips that hold them down as this makes it easier to disconnect.
- The EGR valve goes back on the OBX quite easily if you remove the bolt for the clamp that holds the pipe down. However, after connecting it to the OBX, I was unable to get that bolt back on for the clamp, as the pipe had been displaced.
- I didn't have a 1/2" drill bit for the non-fouler, so I ended up ruining a non-fouler with a smaller drill bit. I have to re-do that part of the install when it stops raining here, but my car hasn't thrown a CEL yet.

QUESTION: I used some Canadian Tire spring bolts to connect the header to the mid-pipe. I also used the gasket that came with the OBX and my original donut gasket. Is this the right order cuz it sounds like I have a leak: OBX header -> gasket that came with header -> donut gasket -> mid-pipe, secured with the spring bolts? How tight do those spring bolts have to be? I have to get under the car and check for a leak because it definitely sounds like there is one.

Overall, it sounds different and the DEI wrap+coating was emitting a ton of smoke so it also smelled different. The coating has cured after 50km, so the smoke and smell is gone. The sound is hard to describe, kinda throaty, but I'm sure I have a leak so mine doesn't sound very good.

Performance: (mated with a K&N CAI) Some low-end torque is gone, but she pulls faster to redline. At first, there's no huge immediately noticeable difference. Driving her around a bit more, I realized she pulls quicker in 1st and 2nd, and a bit quicker in 3rd. Slightly improved at higher speeds in 4th and 5th. My brother also took her for a test drive and said he noticed she gets to redline faster. But I have to fix the leak...

Right after installing it (and doing an oil change), I took her around the block for a test drive. A Cobalt SS pulls up and wants to race. We go, and we're neck-and-neck in 1st, I shift quicker to 2nd thanks to TWM and gain on him, same in 3rd but he starts gaining on me in 3rd at higher speeds. Eventually we had to stop and I was still in the lead, but had we kept going, he would've taken me. All this to say, the OBX header proved itself on the first test drive (only in the first 3 gears though) :D

GMalatrasi
10-01-2006, 11:30 AM
Does anyone know what to torque the bolts to?(The ones that go to the head)
I cant find it anywhere.

Bala
10-01-2006, 11:43 AM
Does anyone know what to torque the bolts to?(The ones that go to the head)
I cant find it anywhere.

14-16 ft/lbs

ghetto waggon
10-01-2006, 12:06 PM
Well, I installed my OBX headers today, and here's some details and suggestions:
- I wrapped them with DEI 1" exhaust wrap. Clamped down the wrap with regular stainless steel hose clamps. I then put multiple coats of black DEI HT silicone coating. The coating makes the DEI wrap look a lot nicer and seals the wrap nicely. I'll post pics tomorrow.
- I bought a donut gasket, and spring bolts in advance. Good idea to do this. Unfortunately the NAPA donut gasket didn't end up fitting, but luckily my old donut came off easily from my front pipe with a flat-head screwdriver so I re-used that.
- My spring bolts were a huge bitch to remove! Good thing I bought a propane flame tank in advance (best $10 I ever spent!). I had to use that to really heat the bolts until they were amber. I also sprayed a ton of PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst: http://www.jeepfan.com/reviews/pbblaster.htm I really like this stuff, and I sprayed it on all the rusty bolts I had to remove. The mid-pipe spring bolts were by far the hardest and longest part of this install. Took me 2+ hours to get those 2 bastards off! 4 Northeastern Canadian winters really corroded the shit out of those things.
- My 2nd O2 sensor (under the car) was hard to remove from underneath the car, so I would suggest removing the stock mani and taking off that O2 sensor once the whole mani/pre-cat/front pipe is out of the car.
- I had an extra bracket that connected my pre-cat to my engine block which wasn't mentioned in this install guide. That was a tad difficult to get to.
- The O2 sensor wire connectors are also a little painful to get off, but be patient and remove the clips that hold them down as this makes it easier to disconnect.
- The EGR valve goes back on the OBX quite easily if you remove the bolt for the clamp that holds the pipe down. However, after connecting it to the OBX, I was unable to get that bolt back on for the clamp, as the pipe had been displaced.
- I didn't have a 1/2" drill bit for the non-fouler, so I ended up ruining a non-fouler with a smaller drill bit. I have to re-do that part of the install when it stops raining here, but my car hasn't thrown a CEL yet.

QUESTION: I used some Canadian Tire spring bolts to connect the header to the mid-pipe. I also used the gasket that came with the OBX and my original donut gasket. Is this the right order cuz it sounds like I have a leak: OBX header -> gasket that came with header -> donut gasket -> mid-pipe, secured with the spring bolts? How tight do those spring bolts have to be? I have to get under the car and check for a leak because it definitely sounds like there is one.

Overall, it sounds different and the DEI wrap+coating was emitting a ton of smoke so it also smelled different. The coating has cured after 50km, so the smoke and smell is gone. The sound is hard to describe, kinda throaty, but I'm sure I have a leak so mine doesn't sound very good.

Performance: (mated with a K&N CAI) Some low-end torque is gone, but she pulls faster to redline. At first, there's no huge immediately noticeable difference. Driving her around a bit more, I realized she pulls quicker in 1st and 2nd, and a bit quicker in 3rd. Slightly improved at higher speeds in 4th and 5th. My brother also took her for a test drive and said he noticed she gets to redline faster. But I have to fix the leak...

Right after installing it (and doing an oil change), I took her around the block for a test drive. A Cobalt SS pulls up and wants to race. We go, and we're neck-and-neck in 1st, I shift quicker to 2nd thanks to TWM and gain on him, same in 3rd but he starts gaining on me in 3rd at higher speeds. Eventually we had to stop and I was still in the lead, but had we kept going, he would've taken me. All this to say, the OBX header proved itself on the first test drive (only in the first 3 gears though) :D


which clamps did you use?
did you go with 1 or 2" header wrap?
Did you buy the bolts from mazda?

damaster
10-01-2006, 02:01 PM
which clamps did you use?
did you go with 1 or 2" header wrap?
Did you buy the bolts from mazda?
Clamps? I didn't use any clamps, just spring bolts from Canadian Tire, not from Mazda. I'll probably end up getting Mazda OEM bolts, if that's the only thing that'll solve my leakage issue.

I used 1" DEI wrap.

GMalatrasi
10-01-2006, 06:11 PM
Ok my OBX headers are finally on!
Took me, oh I dunno, about 6 hours... Although 3 of those were spent waiting for pizza and tools.
Everything came off pretty easily except the three bolts that hold the bend right after the cat.
Then I bolted the header on without a problem untill I got to the EGR fitting...
The angle was off a lil bit so I couldnt screw it in, so after trying for 20min to bend the EGR pipe into allignment, I had to take everything back off and screw in the EGR fitting before putting anything else on. Then I bolted the headers back on and presto.
Started the car and I could hear a leak and the idle was rough... I Instantly assumed it was the EGR fitting wasnt tight enough. So I made it as tight as I could and the idle was instantly better. Thought the hissing sound is still there under acceleration.

Oh yeah... The car is noticebly more responsive to the pedal... not to mention 30lbs lighter, man that cat was heavy.

damaster
10-03-2006, 10:14 PM
My leak got worse since I did the install on Saturday. Today it was to the point where it sounded like I had a hole in my header! I went out and bought Mazda part BP48-40-581A, a.k.a. the "donut" gasket. It was actually cheaper at Mazda than at Napa ($14.40 CDN).

Installed the new "donut" gasket today, re-used my old OEM studs, nuts and springs to connect the header to the mid-pipe, rather than use the crappy Canadian Tire ones that are too thick to even fit through the holes in the mid-pipe. I squeezed the two pipes together with a vise grip and tightened the old nuts until the springs were pretty much almost all the way compressed. However, when I released the vise grip, there was still a small gap.

I still hear a small leaking/farting sound, but it's much than before with the old corroded "donut" gasket and the Canadian tire bolts. I'm not sure if the leaking/farting sound is just the way the headers are supposed to sound or if there's really a leak. I now only hear the leaky sound under 3500 RPM, and it's gone at higher revs. Is this normal?

I'll try going under the car, vise-gripping the pipes together and ask someone to rev it to see if it's really a leak I'm hearing...

Laser03pro
10-03-2006, 10:26 PM
Buy my thunder header in the 4sale section I had no leaks at all ;).

Kansei
10-03-2006, 10:49 PM
hmm my header has sort of a high pitched hissing sound leak.. I've needed a new donut gasket for over a year now haha. No parts stores around here can even order it for me. Good to know it's cheap from the dealership.

GMalatrasi
10-04-2006, 12:25 AM
I cant tell where the hissing sound is coming from cause it's only audible after 2k rpm and I havent had anyone with me to rev it while I listen outside of the car.

damaster
10-04-2006, 09:25 AM
If you have a hissing/leaking sounds, then it's worth replacing your "donut" gasket with a new one. The dealership has them pretty cheap and it's better than most any you can buy from a parts store.

I still have a very, very minor leaking sound under 3k RPM and I'm almost certain this is due to my old, rusted studs and bolts that I re-used as I can't get them tight enough to completely seal the tiny gap between the header and the mid-pipe.

Like I said, I'm gonna try vise-gripping the two pipes together to completely close the seal and listen for the leaking sound. If it's still there with the vise-grips on, then it ain't coming from a leak and I'll assume it's a normal sound from the OBX header and learn to live with it.

nate0123
10-04-2006, 09:32 AM
Yea, there is slightly more underhood sound with a SS header, I think the SS allows a little more sound out than a cast piece

Kansei
10-04-2006, 01:44 PM
I still have a very, very minor leaking sound under 3k RPM and I'm almost certain this is due to my old, rusted studs and bolts that I re-used as I can't get them tight enough to completely seal the tiny gap between the header and the mid-pipe.

I'm still shocked that you were able to re-use those spring bolt things seeing as you're in Quebec. Mine were totally unusable once I got them off haha.

damaster
10-04-2006, 02:44 PM
I'm still shocked that you were able to re-use those spring bolt things seeing as you're in Quebec. Mine were totally unusable once I got them off haha.
They were in pretty bad shape but not completely un-usable. The studs are actually in great condition. It's just the bolts that are wrecked and stripped (while I was trying to get them off). The springs are only slightly rusted. Annual rust proofings help I guess :D

Lord_Zath
10-04-2006, 10:43 PM
Did you remove the stock air box? If so, you're probably hearing increased engine noise. It's similar if you have a SRI or CAI installed.

GMalatrasi
10-04-2006, 11:54 PM
Nope... Airbox it still there.
I think it might actually still be the EGR fitting.
I'm gonna spray some soapy water on it first thing in the morning (when it's still cold) and see if it is the EGR.

Kansei
10-05-2006, 12:10 AM
^^ good idea, but the header gets so hot so quickly that I bet the soapy water will just evap :P.. have someone else start the car so you can be watching right as the engine starts.

GMalatrasi
10-05-2006, 12:21 AM
Yup

jeg0024
12-04-2006, 02:24 AM
Subbing...nice write up...I might need to re-visit this thread soon, ill let everyone know how things go!

Phoenix5
01-06-2007, 04:46 PM
Hey guys,I'm tryin' to install my OBX header in now but I'm having trouble w/ the two spring loaded bolts holding the midpipe and the pipe coming of the 1st cat together and the "mount" that holds the first cat in place.I can't seem to budge any of the bolts.What did you guys use to take them off??

Laser03pro
01-06-2007, 04:50 PM
Hey guys,I'm tryin' to install my OBX header in now but I'm having trouble w/ the two spring loaded bolts holding the midpipe and the pipe coming of the 1st cat together and the "mount" that holds the first cat in place.I can't seem to budge any of the bolts.What did you guys use to take them off??

Impact wrech :)

Lord_Zath
01-06-2007, 04:52 PM
You can also try using a loosening agent like wd-40...

Laser03pro
01-06-2007, 04:57 PM
PB blaster then brute strength. Break bar always helps too.

Phoenix5
01-06-2007, 05:00 PM
Impact wrech :)

Gee,if only I had one,(lol2)

But yeah,breaker bar didn't help much since it's too long.

Anyway,I'll try the WD-40.

Thanx guys!

MP3Performance
01-06-2007, 11:20 PM
When I put on the OBX header my problem was that the bold came out, but the nut was stuck to it. I could not get it off with anything until I finally tried a blowtorch. Got it nice and hot and it easily came off with a wrench. But since yours is stuck under the car I dont know if you want to have a flame under there.

Phoenix5
01-07-2007, 12:01 AM
When I put on the OBX header my problem was that the bold came out, but the nut was stuck to it. I could not get it off with anything until I finally tried a blowtorch. Got it nice and hot and it easily came off with a wrench. But since yours is stuck under the car I dont know if you want to have a flame under there.

Ah,u used the blowtorch/perafin method.Yea,not a good idea w/ the spring bolts(lol2).

Thekid760
01-07-2007, 10:29 PM
I bought myself a christmas present (a new OBX header) and decided to install it today. I would've been done in less than 2 hours but I ran into numerous problems.

The EGR didn't line up (and still doesn't) and I snapped a bolt off in the head.

I will give further details and pic later.

Bala
01-07-2007, 10:45 PM
I bought myself a christmas present (a new OBX header) and decided to install it today. I would've been done in less than 2 hours but I ran into numerous problems.

The EGR didn't line up (and still doesn't) and I snapped a bolt off in the head.

I will give further details and pic later.

For the EGR pipe ... mount the header up with a couple nuts threaded a turn or two (loose, but so it won't fall off), snug up the EGR fitting and then tighten and torque the header down.

Lord_Zath
01-07-2007, 11:20 PM
yeah if you wait to do the EGR last, you won't be able to get it on right.

A member here actually slammed a crowbar into his radiator trying to get that EGR in so be careful!

Thekid760
01-07-2007, 11:40 PM
I'll try that with the EGR. Here's a pic of how far it's off. It's not much, but no amount of prying/heating would allow it to line up.
98286

As far as snapping a bolt off in the head, what do you suggest? I used my torque wrench set to 15 ft/lbs just like i did with all the other bolts, but this one snapped right off about 3 treads from the head of the bolt. Whats really comfusing to me is that they are all grade 8 bolts, they shouldn't snap that easily. How do I get it out? Here's a pic:
98287

Thekid760
01-09-2007, 09:47 PM
Woo Hoo! I finally got the EGR pipe to connect, I had to heat the pipe up at the bend near the TB and pull it out to give me that extra 0.5" I needed.

It sounds so good and drives so nice. I love the extra power and improved throttle response. The butt dyno tells me I have arounf 5 extra hp.

Has anyone dynoed their car before and after header install to see the gains made?

cplagge
01-11-2007, 08:39 PM
I just got mine installed, and after a long 3 hours of getting it to fit right, i plug the battery back in, turn the car to the on position, turn the ignition, and....!

it turns over, wont start :( :( i am so pissed at my car right now. Does anyone have any ideas what to look for, to see if I accidentally disconnected something while installing the header???

kudakev615
01-11-2007, 08:41 PM
does it try to turn over? or does the starter just click when you go to start it?

Laser03pro
01-11-2007, 08:42 PM
Are the battery cables good and tight? NM you said it turned over right?

cplagge
01-11-2007, 08:45 PM
Turns over, does not start. cant think of anything around where i was working that would cause it to not start! but i am tired and prolly not thinking straight

Bala
01-11-2007, 08:45 PM
Did you do an intake at the same time? - MAF may be flipped ...

cplagge
01-11-2007, 08:46 PM
Did you do an intake at the same time? - MAF may be flipped ...

i will check the MAF, i already had an intake installed when i did the header, but its worth a look, thanks.

Laser03pro
01-11-2007, 08:48 PM
Did you do an intake at the same time? - MAF may be flipped ...

Car should still start tho I started mine b4 with the maf unhooked threw a code and was like oops I forgot to hookup the maf. I cant think of nething you would of unhooked just doing the header....

cplagge
01-11-2007, 09:01 PM
the CEL light will not turn on when i put the key onto the on position. Something is very strange

cplagge
01-11-2007, 09:09 PM
the CEL light will not turn on when i put the key onto the on position. Something is very strange



bump for needing help now(omg)

Laser03pro
01-11-2007, 09:13 PM
Check your fuses.

cplagge
01-11-2007, 09:16 PM
all fuses intact. could it be that icould have a blown ecu?


if one of my o2 sensor wires is messed up, could that cause this problem

Laser03pro
01-11-2007, 09:20 PM
all fuses intact. could it be that icould have a blown ecu?


if one of my o2 sensor wires is messed up, could that cause this problem

yeh that could cause a short but will usually blow a fuse but you are sure they are all good?

cplagge
01-11-2007, 09:23 PM
checking as i type. laptops ftw. Any other ideas? blown ecu?

Laser03pro
01-11-2007, 09:26 PM
I doubt its the ecu I still think its most likely a fuse.

cplagge
01-11-2007, 09:30 PM
found a blown fuse in the cabin. it is marked engine. zomg

Laser03pro
01-11-2007, 09:33 PM
Sweet! I think it was caused from your o2 wires most likely.

cplagge
01-11-2007, 09:37 PM
if it blows again then i will know for sure.

cplagge
01-11-2007, 09:43 PM
ok so i re-attached the o2 sensor, and i noticed it is touching the metal from the clutch slave? its causing a short. Will i throw a cel if the first o2 sensor is not in?

Laser03pro
01-11-2007, 09:49 PM
ok so i re-attached the o2 sensor, and i noticed it is touching the metal from the clutch slave? its causing a short. Will i throw a cel if the first o2 sensor is not in?
Yes that will throw a cel the first one is the most needed one also. Wrap the wires with some tape if you are getting metal to metal contact.

cplagge
01-12-2007, 05:30 PM
Okay, kinda repaired the broken wire on the first O2 sensor, and it no longer shorts and blows a fuse. I drove it around last night for about 20 mins, and was very happy. However, the next morning i start it up and a CEL comes on, so i fear I damaged the first sensor. going to replace it.

mazdaspeed777
03-11-2007, 07:08 AM
Subbin, Installing OBX header next weekend

Perma
03-28-2007, 08:46 PM
Just wanted to post a thank-you.

This was a lot of help today :) Installed my OBX just fine.

amsgator
03-28-2007, 08:51 PM
Subbin, Installing OBX header next weekend

i'm doin mine wednesday!!! supposed to be here tuesday, goin in wednesday :) hope i dont have to use my warranty. i actually had to use it when the butterfly fell off b/c the VTCS screw fell off. and they didnt say anything about my intake or anything. all the guy said was he liked what i did w/ the intake. only made it easier for them. hopefully i dont have to call upon it again!! i only have til july anyway. i hope i dont stick 9000 miles on it by july...

amsgator
04-05-2007, 02:01 PM
it is a HUGE PIA to get the EGR pipe back on. it doesn't fit right and you have to bend it and play with it alot. I actually had to take the bracket off until it was on, and then put the bracket back on. along with bending and a lot of pushing until it finally lined up. wasn't fun.

damaster
04-05-2007, 02:22 PM
it is a HUGE PIA to get the EGR pipe back on. it doesn't fit right and you have to bend it and play with it alot. I actually had to take the bracket off until it was on, and then put the bracket back on. along with bending and a lot of pushing until it finally lined up. wasn't fun.
I agree. Taking off the bracket is a must to get the EGR back on. Anyone else doing this header install should be aware of this in advance. I could never possibly have gotten my EGR pipe on without removing the bracket.

amsgator
04-05-2007, 02:45 PM
I agree. Taking off the bracket is a must to get the EGR back on. Anyone else doing this header install should be aware of this in advance. I could never possibly have gotten my EGR pipe on without removing the bracket.

it was ridiculous. i thought i couldnt get it on...honestly...i had to use a 2x4 to push agaiinst the pipe to get it to line up properly. lmao. a 2x4, who would have thought. use that to push the pipe forward and over so that it lined up. once i got the nut on i could remove the 2x4 and tighten it up. it was ridiculous. i heard ractives bolt right on, but o well

nate0123
04-05-2007, 02:46 PM
my OBX bolted right up ('02 protege), a gentle nudge was all it needed

amsgator
04-05-2007, 02:48 PM
well you must have been lucky. i've never heard of anyone saying their obx bolted right up w/o a plethora of problems

damaster
04-05-2007, 02:52 PM
it was ridiculous. i thought i couldnt get it on...honestly...i had to use a 2x4 to push agaiinst the pipe to get it to line up properly. lmao. a 2x4, who would have thought. use that to push the pipe forward and over so that it lined up. once i got the nut on i could remove the 2x4 and tighten it up. it was ridiculous. i heard ractives bolt right on, but o well
LOL! A 2x4??? Mine wasn't that bad... once I removed the bracket I was able to get it on with some manual pulling

amsgator
04-05-2007, 03:20 PM
LOL! A 2x4??? Mine wasn't that bad... once I removed the bracket I was able to get it on with some manual pulling

tried manual pulling. a lot of manual pulling. lol. it was like 1 mm off, just enough that if i tried to screw the nut on it would crossthread. so i had to use the extra measure. but it worked :) now my idle is worse so i need to c why. maybe its b/c i reset the ecu and its still adjusting. i also am gonna check to make sure the intake is on correctly.

damaster
04-05-2007, 03:30 PM
tried manual pulling. a lot of manual pulling. lol. it was like 1 mm off, just enough that if i tried to screw the nut on it would crossthread. so i had to use the extra measure. but it worked :) now my idle is worse so i need to c why. maybe its b/c i reset the ecu and its still adjusting. i also am gonna check to make sure the intake is on correctly.
If you reset the ECU, then your idle will be rough (up & down) for the first 100 or so miles until it adjusts. If it doesn't improve after that, you should do the MAF cleaning...

amsgator
04-05-2007, 04:03 PM
If you reset the ECU, then your idle will be rough (up & down) for the first 100 or so miles until it adjusts. If it doesn't improve after that, you should do the MAF cleaning...

yea i thought it would be part of the ecu resetting. i'm not too worried right now. i know the egr valve needs cleaning but i'll do that in a few weeks hopefully.

amsgator
04-05-2007, 06:57 PM
can someone show me a pic of their obx after it has been driven. mine is really spotty and shitty looking, even though i used simple green to clean it off. i am gonna try to polish it w/ some mothers stuff and hope it works and gets some of it off, i just wonder what yalls turned out like. i'm kinda pissed. it suxxxx.

nate0123
04-05-2007, 07:10 PM
Who cares? Just drive the damn thing

Bala
04-05-2007, 07:13 PM
can someone show me a pic of their obx after it has been driven. mine is really spotty and shitty looking, even though i used simple green to clean it off. i am gonna try to polish it w/ some mothers stuff and hope it works and gets some of it off, i just wonder what yalls turned out like. i'm kinda pissed. it suxxxx.

hit it up with some 00 and 01 steel wool or the scotchbrite equivalent pads - with a little work those pipes will clean right up ...

amsgator
04-05-2007, 07:16 PM
hit it up with some 00 and 01 steel wool or the scotchbrite equivalent pads - with a little work those pipes will clean right up ...

that wil scratch it to hell.....

i am gonna try nevrdull and then mothers polish and hope they go away. then redo the simple green and try again i HOPE :(

amsgator
04-05-2007, 07:16 PM
Who cares? Just drive the damn thing

it's gonna look shitty when i go to a meet and we are all lookin at each others cars dont u think?

Bala
04-05-2007, 08:21 PM
that wil scratch it to hell.....

Um - no. It comes out a great, even satin/polished finish. A more time consuming, but even more "polished" look can had using this method: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1646557&postcount=1

nate0123
04-05-2007, 08:35 PM
it's gonna look shitty when i go to a meet and we are all lookin at each others cars dont u think?sounds like a silly thing to do when you could be driving

amsgator
04-05-2007, 08:36 PM
Um - no. It comes out a great, even satin/polished finish. A more time consuming, but even more "polished" look can had using this method: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1646557&postcount=1

i read that link. it looks good. i may have to try it...only thing is i dont want to take it off...it was a bit*h puttin it on. so maybe i will just try and to the parts you can see w/o taking it off.

amsgator
04-05-2007, 08:37 PM
it's only been driven for like 50 miles so i am gonna try the nevrdull and then the sandpaper w/o takin it off. hopefully it works alright. thanks for that link!

Bala
04-05-2007, 08:56 PM
it's only been driven for like 50 miles so i am gonna try the nevrdull and then the sandpaper w/o takin it off. hopefully it works alright. thanks for that link!

no prob - you should get the same results with it on, it's just a little easier to handle with it off. My P5 loves it's OBX (what a freaking PITA to put mine on though :P)

http://www.msprotege.com/members/Bala%20de%20Plata/obx7mod.jpg

amsgator
04-05-2007, 09:02 PM
yea mine was too. the stupid EGR was hell tryin to get the pipe back on. what did you do to yours? will the burn marks from the degreaser come off though?

amsgator
04-05-2007, 09:03 PM
i hope i can get this cleaned up, it looks like @$$!! :(

Bala
04-05-2007, 09:11 PM
yea mine was too. the stupid EGR was hell tryin to get the pipe back on. what did you do to yours? will the burn marks from the degreaser come off though?

I had mine Jet-Hot coated and they forgot to mask the threads for the EGR fitting. One of the first things I did was cross-thread the EGR fitting due to the extra thickness >.< No local hardware store had a die big enough to chase the threads, so 1.5 hours later with a diamond file and 1/4 can of 3-1 oil I had the sucker threaded perfect (then I torqued the header to the head). Still running strong with no issues 20K miles later ...

amsgator
04-05-2007, 09:13 PM
is that picture w/ the jet hot on it?

will the steel wool get the burns form the degreaser off the header though? thats what i am worried about :-(

Bala
04-05-2007, 09:19 PM
is that picture w/ the jet hot on it?

will the steel wool get the burns form the degreaser off the header though? thats what i am worried about :-(

yup.

and ... it should.

amsgator
04-05-2007, 09:23 PM
wet or dry steel wool?

Bala
04-05-2007, 09:33 PM
wet or dry steel wool? Dry - and I'd actually recommend working with the scotchbrite pads over real "steel wool", they're just easier to work with. Any Home Depot / Lowes will have what you need, but here's something for ref: 104751

amsgator
04-05-2007, 09:37 PM
hey, i have a few scotchbright pads, but the steel wool looks like its less likely to scratch, especially the fine stuff. the 00 is the finer one for anyone else reading this :) i checked

amsgator
04-05-2007, 09:39 PM
the only scotchbright pad i have is the scour pads and i dont see a number on them like that link showed. :( maybe i'll go to lowes or home depot and check it out. thanks for that pdf. will help :)

mazdaspeed777
04-06-2007, 01:24 AM
Just got my OBX headers on, made a custome EGR tube, port an polished the intake manifold with VTCS removal and thermal spacer. Feww! That was a lot of work, I had to take the intake manifold out and apart three different times to fix a vaccume leak. Here are some picks of the results:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q82/mazdaspeed777/a2082c991f34.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q82/mazdaspeed777/c29efea48d68.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q82/mazdaspeed777/9a2728e2d5b9.jpg
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q82/mazdaspeed777/ceaf1b176168.jpg

Prodigy
04-06-2007, 09:30 AM
I installed my header yesterday.... I think it has a tumor.

http://photos-159.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v75/223/115/1114080054/n1114080054_30164159_9969.jpg

nate0123
04-06-2007, 09:51 AM
show-off...

Prodigy
04-06-2007, 10:36 AM
show-off...
(dunno)

amsgator
04-12-2007, 09:56 PM
u think eliminating the first cat will make the second one go bad quicker?

mazdaspeed777
04-12-2007, 11:30 PM
u think eliminating the first cat will make the second one go bad quicker?

Yep it will. Just like when you gut your cat you shoot soot out your tail pipe everytime you start your car.

whitemp5seattle
04-12-2007, 11:59 PM
well that's no good.

amsgator
04-13-2007, 12:14 AM
dang that sux.....

NMMotorsport
04-13-2007, 10:12 AM
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f198/NMMotorsport/DSCF1264.jpg


cheers for the guide its good. only problemos, was the egr valve, which after some fetterling, we hooked it up first then pushed the manifold into place. i cleaned it before i started it up but it still went purpley, however now its gone a cool silver colour lol

amsgator
04-13-2007, 12:59 PM
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f198/NMMotorsport/DSCF1264.jpg


cheers for the guide its good. only problemos, was the egr valve, which after some fetterling, we hooked it up first then pushed the manifold into place. i cleaned it before i started it up but it still went purpley, however now its gone a cool silver colour lol

it's going to go purplely. it just wont have fingerprints or anything. purplely is what u want

NMMotorsport
04-13-2007, 02:12 PM
na i wish itd stayed chrome really lol. might wrap it anyway, what kinda extra bhp have people got from wrapping theM?

amsgator
04-13-2007, 02:17 PM
i wouldnt wrap it if i were you.... it makes the header go bad quicker and most companies wont warranty a header that has been wrapped. if you want it different that much get jethot, at least its safer. but i would advise not wrapping it.

http://www.centuryperformance.com/heatwraps.asp

o.g.sk8er
04-13-2007, 02:32 PM
I have an AWR header that I have had wrapped for about 4 years, and no problems. Maybe I got lucky. (dunno)

amsgator
04-13-2007, 02:35 PM
the key word in that one may have been AWR. lol. not OBX :) even though i have an obx.... lol. but yes i still would not advise it.

NMMotorsport
04-14-2007, 08:48 AM
o right cool. i'll keep it in mind, cheers for the site, some good info

Prodigy
04-14-2007, 07:26 PM
If you don't have AWR front and rear motor mounts, DO NOT wrap it.
If you do have em, you'll get away with wrapping it... no prob.


I had my AWR header crack a pipe in half mostly because of the added stress of shitty stock motor mounts, the lack of a flex pipe, and added heat from the wrap.

After I got motor mounts + welded the header back up, the header(wrapped again) was a whole lot stronger and held up for a good 6 months before I sold it.




Wrap it if you have AWR motor mounts. It looks better IMO.

Prodigy
04-14-2007, 08:06 PM
I also think my situation will be the only one because I was lucky enough to get a piece of shitty pipe...

In other words, the pipe that AWR used was actually pressed together...instead of being rolled.

mazdaspeed777
04-14-2007, 11:03 PM
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f198/NMMotorsport/DSCF1264.jpg


cheers for the guide its good. only problemos, was the egr valve, which after some fetterling, we hooked it up first then pushed the manifold into place. i cleaned it before i started it up but it still went purpley, however now its gone a cool silver colour lol

I like the tint color the OBX headers have. Her is a good pic of mine in the light, it is cooler looking than just plane chrome IMO:

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q82/mazdaspeed777/a2082c991f34.jpg

Thekid760
04-26-2007, 03:05 AM
I had a hell of a time with the EGR pipe when I installed mine. It never did line up even after some persuasion from a torch and a long pry bar. I ended up pluging it w/ a iron pipe cap and drove it to my local mufler shop where the ended up rebending the damn thing.

Oh well it was worth it, at least untill I have to put the stock one back on come emmisions time.

Thekid760
04-26-2007, 03:09 AM
Oh by the way amsgator:

Try this stuff to get the blue off,
http://www.stainlessworks.net/cart/product_info.php?cPath=153&products_id=1305

I haven't personally tried it, but if it bothers you that much it's a pretty cheap fix.

That header company makes really good quality stuff, I plan on getting a pair of their headers for my Mustang.

amsgator
04-28-2007, 10:47 PM
I had a hell of a time with the EGR pipe when I installed mine. It never did line up even after some persuasion from a torch and a long pry bar. I ended up pluging it w/ a iron pipe cap and drove it to my local mufler shop where the ended up rebending the damn thing.

Oh well it was worth it, at least untill I have to put the stock one back on come emmisions time.

yeap me too. didnt have to go to shop but it took a good 15-20 minutes to get it to fit. i hit the header up w/ some steel wool and it made it shiny again but it still needs more. i need to get some 01 steel wool, all i have now is 00 because they didnt have 01 at lowes. so hopefully soon i'll get some 01 to attack it again :)

Thekid760
04-29-2007, 05:53 PM
Glad the steel wool worked out for you, care to post some pics when you finish? Or even one the way it is now.

amsgator
04-29-2007, 08:20 PM
Glad the steel wool worked out for you, care to post some pics when you finish? Or even one the way it is now.

i checked for the 01 again and the OTHER lowes didnt have it so i'm going to go check home depot. if they dont have it i'll just scrub the hell out of it w/ the 00. i'll get some up soon hopefully. i am moving back to Jacksonville for the summer so I will probably have some up this weekend or so.

dtone314
05-24-2007, 07:37 PM
I am having a problem when I first accelerate after starting my 2003 MP5. I just installed OBX headers. I also have a CAI and cat back exhaust. My check engine light is not on or anything. When I first step on the gas and accelerate it's as if the car doesn't mix air/fuel properly. It has trouble accelerating and the RPMs dip down intermittently. This lasts about 30 seconds and then I can drive as usual. It also doesn't happen every time I start my car, just every other or third time. Could this be the ECU still adjusting? I read in this thread that it takes 300 KM, about 150 miles, and I have only driven 50 after my install. Is this anything to worry about? What could it be? Thanks in advance.

damaster
05-24-2007, 07:47 PM
I am having a problem when I first accelerate after starting my 2003 MP5. I just installed OBX headers. I also have a CAI and cat back exhaust. My check engine light is not on or anything. When I first step on the gas and accelerate it's as if the car doesn't mix air/fuel properly. It has trouble accelerating and the RPMs dip down intermittently. This lasts about 30 seconds and then I can drive as usual. It also doesn't happen every time I start my car, just every other or third time. Could this be the ECU still adjusting? I read in this thread that it takes 300 KM, about 150 miles, and I have only driven 50 after my install. Is this anything to worry about? What could it be? Thanks in advance. My ECU adjustment took about 100 km and I didn't experience such a drastic effect during the adjustment period as you've described. It could be that you have a serious O2 sensor issue or a major air leak somewhere. Did you disconnect the negative battery terminal to reset the ECU?

In addition, I would highly recommend disconnecting your CAI at the throttle body and spraying some SeaFoam Deep Creep onto your throttle blades while actuating the accelerator to open the throttle (right from under the hood). There may be some dirt on your throttle blades and beyond them that's causing rough idle which is more exaggerated now with the new headers.

I did the SeaFoam trifecta (into the brake booster line/vaccuum, in the fuel tank, and in the crank case) and Deep Creep of my throttle body this past weekend and the results are:
1) no more rough idle
2) acceleration is smoother and engine sounds like it used to when it was new
3) better gas mileage

Good luck!

amsgator
05-24-2007, 07:52 PM
seafoam the engine and check for exhaust leaks like on the egr pipe and also around the o2 sensors. if there is a leak u will see the "smoke" coming out

amsgator
05-24-2007, 07:52 PM
when u seafoamed the crankcase did you have to wash out all the crap w/ oil and then put new oil in again?

damaster
05-24-2007, 08:22 PM
when u seafoamed the crankcase did you have to wash out all the crap w/ oil and then put new oil in again?
I just ran 1/2 a quart of new oil through after the old oil had completely drained out. I then waited for the 1/2 quart of new oil to completely drain out before putting my drain plug and oil filter back on and refilling with new oil.

I assume I'll have to change out this oil at 1/2 my usual interval, i.e. 3000 kms

amsgator
05-24-2007, 08:29 PM
well if you dont start the car it wont remove all the residue tho... idk. i guess i'll see soon.

damaster
05-25-2007, 10:32 AM
well if you dont start the car it wont remove all the residue tho... idk. i guess i'll see soon.
This is getting OT... not sure I understand what you mean. I poured SeaFoam into the crankcase with the old oil, drove it around for about 50 kms, then drained the old oil, poured a 1/2 quart of new oil, and then added new oil + oil filter.

SKY
06-29-2007, 02:34 PM
My mechanic installed the Ractive 2.0L for me, read this thread and did the by pass to the 2nd cat....but the Engine light still comes on afte 1000km or so.

Any supportive comments is welcome. Thanks.

nate0123
06-29-2007, 02:47 PM
My mechanic installed the Ractive 2.0L for me, read this thread and did the by pass to the 2nd cat....but the Engine light still comes on afte 1000km or so.

Any supportive comments is welcome. Thanks."By pass to the 2nd cat..." (uhm)

Sounds like mechanic-speak for they took out the stock manifold & precat and put in the header.

That doesn't eliminate the need to modify the signal to the 2nd O2 sensor. I'm guessing the mechanic didn't do anything about that, which is 99% guaranteed causing your CEL. The simplest way is to drill out a spark plug non-fouler and thread that onto where the second O2 sensor sits.

I doubt the mechanic paid much attention to this thread, FWIW.

br289165
07-02-2007, 03:38 AM
I cant find an OBX header online to purchase new. I might buy the Vibrant header. What have you heard about them, if anything? Also what is this MIL/CEL? I want to be sure its done right. Thanks

amsgator
07-02-2007, 08:40 AM
http://mazda3online.web.aplus.net/product_info.php?cPath=281_21_31_47&products_id=459

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-EXHAUST-HEADER-MAZDA-PROTEGE-MP3-2-0L-ALL-01-03_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33631QQihZ003QQitemZ 130127613999QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

or if you have the 1.6L

http://mazda3online.web.aplus.net/product_info.php?cPath=281_21_31_47&products_id=757

Tzar177
07-02-2007, 09:32 PM
just installed my thunder header. hooked up the egr last and i had no probs getting it on

TreFlip999
07-13-2007, 01:42 PM
I cant find an OBX header online to purchase new. I might buy the Vibrant header. What have you heard about them, if anything? Also what is this MIL/CEL? I want to be sure its done right. Thanksprotegegarage has them in stock now

tprouty
07-27-2007, 01:33 AM
yea so... this "metal flexible ring" isent to flexible... and i could not get it off... where can I get one?I put the header on anyways.. and it sounds like a POS.

amsgator
07-27-2007, 07:28 AM
yea so... this "metal flexible ring" isent to flexible... and i could not get it off... where can I get one?I put the header on anyways.. and it sounds like a POS.

what ring? the gasket? have to go to mazda. they are like 20 bux

tprouty
07-27-2007, 07:37 AM
yea that gasket. will call them today

amsgator
07-27-2007, 03:04 PM
you might be able to get them at an auto store, but i tried that and they odered the wrong part, so i went to mazda. they had to overnight mine, none in stock

tprouty
07-29-2007, 06:18 PM
yup thats what I had to do... and I am still working on getting my second sensor out... fucking rusty POS.

Thekid760
10-11-2007, 10:35 PM
Go to onlinemazdaparts.com:

BP4840581A MSRP-17.25 Website-13.80

for the donut gasket. I ordered mine from him and it came fast.

03 Pro ES
10-21-2007, 04:54 PM
just installed my OBX header today and everything came out fine although my exhaust is shaking Alot... and i am having a rubbing issue where my header meets the midpipe, its rubbing my oil pan.. any suggestions.

NCZ13
11-02-2007, 04:53 AM
subbing.

i12drivemyMP5
11-02-2007, 09:10 AM
just installed my OBX header today and everything came out fine although my exhaust is shaking Alot... and i am having a rubbing issue where my header meets the midpipe, its rubbing my oil pan.. any suggestions.Flex fitting on the midpipe. Not cheap but well worth it. About 80.00 at most exh shops.

MazdaSpeeder
12-28-2007, 05:16 AM
So, I need a little advice/encouragement. My stock header is leaking like the Titanic, and now my car sounds like a tractor, so I need to install a new header pronto. I am pretty sure I have a line on the header (OBX or Tsudo), and I'm going to replace both gaskets and the spring bolts, but my greatest fear is stripping/snapping a header-to-block blot or stud. Previous installs have proven that I am capable of doing this like it's my job, and in its previous life my car spent winters in Michigan and Indiana.

I'm going to PB Blast all the bolts and get an impact wrench for the job, but is there anything else I should be considering? I've never used an impact before and don't want to screw this up, but I want to (and kind of financially need to) do this myself. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated...

StealthWyvern
12-28-2007, 05:38 AM
just installed my OBX header today and everything came out fine although my exhaust is shaking Alot... and i am having a rubbing issue where my header meets the midpipe, its rubbing my oil pan.. any suggestions.

replacing my shot stock mounts fixed this issue for me.

TreFlip999
01-05-2008, 02:44 PM
So, I need a little advice/encouragement. My stock header is leaking like the Titanic, and now my car sounds like a tractor, so I need to install a new header pronto. I am pretty sure I have a line on the header (OBX or Tsudo), and I'm going to replace both gaskets and the spring bolts, but my greatest fear is stripping/snapping a header-to-block blot or stud. Previous installs have proven that I am capable of doing this like it's my job, and in its previous life my car spent winters in Michigan and Indiana.

I'm going to PB Blast all the bolts and get an impact wrench for the job, but is there anything else I should be considering? I've never used an impact before and don't want to screw this up, but I want to (and kind of financially need to) do this myself. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated...

The only thing i wish i had done is buy the gasket that goes between the header and mid-pipe...The sit was melted on the to stock one and i had roll around without a gasket in there

MazdaSpeeder
01-12-2008, 06:25 AM
Pics aren't working...Ken, can you fix them? I'm planning on doing this in the next few days...

***EDIT*** One quick question...is one of the two nuts on either side of the spring bolts welded to the flange on the midpipe? I know that one of the nuts comes off, releasing the spring, but does the nut on the other end come off too?

MazdaSpeeder
01-14-2008, 10:17 AM
Sorry for the double post but I have a pic and need the bump...my question is, I know nut 2 comes off the stud, but is nut 1 welded to the midpipe flange or does it come off as well...as you can see, my nuts are rusty (haha) and I am planning to replace all the hardware (I have the springs and was going to get the rest at a hardware store when I do my header swap...any help would be greatly appreciated as I am doing this in just a few days...

http://www.msprotege.com/members/mazdaspeeder/exhaust.jpg

amsgator
01-14-2008, 02:02 PM
IIRC 1 stays on.

StealthWyvern
01-14-2008, 10:43 PM
stays on

MazdaSpeeder
01-17-2008, 01:12 PM
Thanks for all the feedback...I did this yesterday and other than rusty bolts everything went smoothly except reconnecting the EGR...what a PITA! Between a torch and a prybar I finally got it to line up, and now she's purring like a kitten instead of growling like a lion with pneumonia. Nice pull above 4k rpms as well, and soooo much smoother than my previous leaky header!

velothree
03-03-2008, 09:58 PM
Anyone know why these pictures aren't showing on this how to? Is it just too old?

dosle
03-03-2008, 10:01 PM
Lost the pictures a while ago from my host...

UPDATE, fixed the problem, reuploaded the collection. check the first page.

erksP5
04-21-2008, 03:04 AM
everything worked perfect but when it came to the gasket ring, i got it off the old one and tried to put it on the new one and it was to big....... it didnt fit right and everything else did. is there another gasket ring i can buy that fits the new pipe at the same time fits to the connecting pipe? cause everytime i press on the gas, i kinda hear some air seepin through somewhere. guessing its the gasket ring. sorry im a big newbie when it comes to cars itself. help?

mx-p5
05-09-2008, 09:47 AM
I am having problems doing this. I got all the bolts at the motor off no problem and first cat and EGR valve.

Problem is I can't get the second 02 sensor out or either spring bolts. I am tempted to get an angle grinder or something to cut out the spring bolts.

Also, what size is the second 02 sensor nut? The cresent wrench isn't workin too well, i'd rather have the proper size openend wrench.

Thanks in advance!!

Pighunter
05-09-2008, 10:18 AM
The problem not getting out O2sensors ist quite common if they aren't inserted with some copper grease. The repair manual suggests to first cover its wires with some masking tape making sure nothing can penetrate there. Then spray it (on cold exhaust(pow)) with WD40 or stuff. Let it soak in then try your best with a matching wrench. They suggest a special tool equivalent to the one for brake fittings.

njaremka
05-09-2008, 10:38 AM
^ what he said - get an O2 socket and a breaker bar. mine popped right out with those.

mx-p5
05-09-2008, 10:54 AM
02 socket? Unaware of such a thing. Hmm. looks like i'm going to the autoparts store today.

Now, to flippin get the springbolts off

MazdaSpeeder
05-09-2008, 11:45 AM
My spring bolts were impossible without an airgun...do you have access to one? Remember that the actual studs stay on the midpipe...don't grind those!

MP3Performance
05-09-2008, 11:49 AM
02 socket? Unaware of such a thing. Hmm. looks like i'm going to the autoparts store today.

Now, to flippin get the springbolts off

The o2 socket has a "cut" down the middle of it. It is so that you can put the wires through there in order to get around the sensor itself. All auto stores have them. As far as the spring bolts, I used about a can of liquid wrench, but after that didn't work I had to use a mapp gas torch to heat the mother f*&ker off. Be VERY careful if you are using any type of flame under your car.

mx-p5
05-09-2008, 12:12 PM
No access to an airgun w/o just having a shop do the swap. Ghey! Hmmm......

mx-p5
05-12-2008, 09:11 AM
Alright, got the header on with only one casualty. I snapped off the driver's side headstud. All the bolts are good though. Gotta get it in a shop and have that fixed.

Sidenote, i've got what sounds like an exhaust leak. I can't really tell. Many say it's at the midpipe, but, I can't tell.

Also, header pushed down on the front of the exhaust pushing the rear end of the magnaflow into the bumper rattling it to death. Gotta pull down on the hangers when I can get out to work on the car again.

Here she is!
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=130779


Thanks for the awsome writeup!! It was perfect!!!

Jds_Protege
05-15-2008, 09:57 PM
when i put on the obx headers.. the bottom part does not line up with the stock exhaust pipe to the cat.. any suggestions on how to get this fixed.. its a really big exhaust leak now!! i need help real fast.. thanks guys

jeg0024
05-15-2008, 10:04 PM
Did you transfer over the O gasket from the stock j-pipe or install a new one?

Jds_Protege
05-16-2008, 05:33 PM
i did transfer the old o ring over the the new header.
but the new header doesnt want to go on flush with the cat or what ever it connects to..
the bottom of the new header is like pointing upwards towards the bottom of the car and not striaght to the existing pipe.. if that makes any sense lol not much of a mechanic as u can tell

jeg0024
05-16-2008, 06:18 PM
Well the bolts are springs loaded and should keep tension on the pipes at all times. I know what ya mean but the rest of the exhaust is just sitting on hangers, it should be able to be moved to where you need to be able to tighten the springs all the way down. I just did my 2nd header install on another car today and everything went well with an exception for the egr piping which took some time to get on.

Jds_Protege
05-16-2008, 07:24 PM
yeah i'll give that a try next time im in the shop.. right now i have to drive a honda cuz the exhaust leak is so bad LOL..

thanks a lot for the help

MazdaSpeeder
05-18-2008, 07:57 AM
Sidenote, i've got what sounds like an exhaust leak. I can't really tell. Many say it's at the midpipe, but, I can't tell.

Did you swap the donut gasket or put on a whole new one? If you swapped, this could be the leak you are hearing...

mx-p5
05-19-2008, 08:02 AM
I did my header swap, and, luckily, everything lined up perfectly. Midpipe and EGR.

I had the exhaust but wasn't sure where it was. ANyone think it was here??

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2045/2504573301_f7fd932c0d.jpg?v=0

I had picked up a new gasket there but it didn't quite do it's job. I just pulled the header again yesterday and swapped back to the OE exhaust gasket and i am proud to say, leak is gone!!

All done, please exscuse the busted header stud
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3263/2504616873_2c7e80e927.jpg?v=0

Jds_Protege
05-19-2008, 01:40 PM
yeah i did swap the o ring to the new header.. it just doesnt line up to the oem exhaust.

mx-p5
05-19-2008, 01:48 PM
Is it an OBX header? How far off is it? Possible to snap a pic?

Did you first try to assemble the header to the exhaust first, then pry the header onto the head?

Jds_Protege
05-23-2008, 12:45 AM
its not that far off but enough to make a big exhaust leak.. i'll try to take a picture tomorrow when i have time

and yes it is an obx header

jeg0024
05-23-2008, 12:54 AM
So just get a new one, they have lifetime gaurantees dont they? Or atleast if you got it from Ken he can get you a replacement.

blueprotegelx
06-04-2008, 10:00 AM
does anyone know the size of the egr tube nut and the threading on the obx header? http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123709368

chiefmg
06-05-2008, 11:15 PM
I see that this is for the OBX style header, but for those who have an AWR 4-2-1 you want to look at how close your lower radiator hose is to the #1 cylinder pipe. Apparently AWR made different versions of the header, the one I bought had that pipe routed so that the hose was touching. I ended up going to a local auto parts store and they let me pull around in the back to find a replacement hose that would avoid the problem. If anyone is interested I can provide the part number for the hose (it surprised me how few hoses there were with the correct diameter).

blueprotegelx
06-06-2008, 01:52 PM
found out the fitting coming off the obx manifold is 1/2" for future reference. i just went ahead and replaced the egr tube with water heater piping and gave me a few extra inches when i decide to do thermal spacer and finish porting intake manifold.

Jds_Protege
06-12-2008, 07:45 PM
sorry i havent been on in awhile but i did get my header fixed i had to heat it up and bend it. any ways my check engine like is now on.. i got it scaned and it says that i have no cat or something and my mechanic says on the header i put on which is an obx header has no cat on it or something.. does anyone else have this problem?

blueprotegelx
06-12-2008, 09:20 PM
sorry i havent been on in awhile but i did get my header fixed i had to heat it up and bend it. any ways my check engine like is now on.. i got it scaned and it says that i have no cat or something and my mechanic says on the header i put on which is an obx header has no cat on it or something.. does anyone else have this problem?

did you put on the mil eliminator/non fouler?

MazdaSpeeder
06-12-2008, 10:15 PM
+1...this thread has all the info you need. http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123634664&highlight=mil+eliminator Your mechanic is right, the OBX removes the precat, so you have to move the o2 sensor out of the exhaust stream to make it think it is getting catted (cleaned) exhaust gas instead of the actual raw exhaust it is getting.

FYI, if your state does a visual inspect for emissions, you won't pass...

jeg0024
06-12-2008, 10:29 PM
sorry i havent been on in awhile but i did get my header fixed i had to heat it up and bend it. any ways my check engine like is now on.. i got it scaned and it says that i have no cat or something and my mechanic says on the header i put on which is an obx header has no cat on it or something.. does anyone else have this problem?

I had this problem too.... odd thing is, it was the reason I bought the header. To get rid of the cat. Did you buy this not knowing its purpose? Follow the links provided above.

mx-p5
06-14-2008, 02:52 PM
Posting for DemonIAm

He has his OBX header on and all fits on top, but, he's now got an inch and a half gap between the bottom of the header and midpipe.

I suggested he attach at midpipe first, then see if he can get the top to lineup again

Anybody got any ideas? He's doing it now, and his wife is pissed at em cause she's waiting

nate0123
06-14-2008, 04:16 PM
no, you definitely want to seat it at the block first... I don't know how there could be that much gap unless it's bent or a defective part

mine bolted right up (on my protege)

mx-p5
06-14-2008, 04:29 PM
It was my header and bolted directly up with no issues other than a faulty donut gasket. Neither of us can figure out why it isn't lining up on his. Waiting to hear back from him.

Lord_Zath
06-14-2008, 04:45 PM
When we did mine, we bolted it to the exhaust first, since they're springbolts. We then pushed it onto the block, but slightly tightened it so that we still had enough play to get the EGR pipe on. After that, we tightened all the bolts and everything was fine.

Demoniam
06-14-2008, 11:00 PM
it's all good now. sounds great on the stock exhaust, btw

jeg0024
06-14-2008, 11:29 PM
I also had to connect to the midpipe first, its all on hangers anyways so you have room to move the header around to get it on the head.

br289165
06-26-2008, 04:51 AM
Will a 19inch long 1/2 inch breaker bar with a socket get those midpipe spring bolts loose?http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/br289165/DSCN0426.jpg

StealthWyvern
06-26-2008, 04:56 AM
Will a 19inch long 1/2 inch breaker bar with a socket get those midpipe spring bolts loose?http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj298/br289165/DSCN0426.jpg

I don't know but its worth a shot. I ened up with a 5 foot pipe and a wrench to get mine. The thing came off with very little effort! Yes I had a lift and no I couldn't use the air tools(they where in use)

mx-p5
06-26-2008, 07:29 AM
PB blaster the crap out of those bolts first, or you might torque em off. First night i tried to hit the stupid spring bolts, it was a no go. Shot PB blaster and let em sit over night and shot em all throughout the next day, then, i had a 2 foot breaker bar on my socket and it still took quite a bit of muscle, but they eventually came free

MazdaSpeeder
06-26-2008, 11:13 PM
Will a 19inch long 1/2 inch breaker bar with a socket get those midpipe spring bolts loose?

For your consideration: I really think a lot of it depends on how rusty the bolts and studs are are. The studs are welded to the midpipe, so if you bend or break one, you're going to have to drill and replace and that's going to set you back quite a bit of time and energy. My car spent time in Michigan before I bought it and with PB blaster my impact still took some time to get the nuts off. I've never seen an impact have as much trouble as it did for me on those nuts. I am sure I would have messed something up if I had used a breaker bar.

808MP5
06-26-2008, 11:25 PM
i recently took mine off to replace the alternator... just gotta use a little umph... i just hit it a few times with my hand until it cracked loose. once its loose they come off easy.

96superneon
07-22-2008, 07:02 PM
WOW just put on the obx header!! man was that a job. great write up. everything was going great till i started putting it on, didnt line up well at all. but its done and sounds great! my exhaust tip is hitting my bumper now (uhm) guess i'll need to rehang the exhaust.

mx-p5
07-22-2008, 08:33 PM
Yeah, OBX sets the front of the exhaust a bit lower causing the rear of the exhaust to set higher. Caused my magnaflow on my Pro5 to rub the bumper as well. Take teh car to an exhaust shop and they should be able to heat the hangers and bend em down in 5 minutes for cheap and problem solved!

Reset the ECU and wait for it to relearn the new airflow and enjoy the new HP and torque!

Prodigy
07-23-2008, 09:12 AM
Just pop off the exhaust hangers and bend the rods down with a box-end wrench.

mrlilguy157
08-01-2008, 08:36 PM
aric is a qt.

hawaiianice99
08-28-2008, 11:17 PM
Are the F2 header for the mz3 2.0L and 2.3L the same part, or are they different headers all together?

jeg0024
08-29-2008, 12:36 AM
Couldn't tell ya...

this is for the 2.0 FSDE

hawaiianice99
08-29-2008, 12:40 AM
maybe that is why i have been second guessing myself, i was refrencing off this "how-to."

dope, dumb me.(hand)

jeg0024
08-29-2008, 01:29 AM
lol, its cool bro.

oneslowp5
10-07-2008, 11:21 AM
any body have a hard time reinstalling the EGR tube on there header any advice on how to

nate0123
10-07-2008, 11:50 AM
how far off is it? you could try carefully bending it with a pipe wrench (without crimping it)

njaremka
10-07-2008, 12:39 PM
try connecting the egr tube BEFORE bolting the header to the head. that made it easier for me.

mx-p5
10-07-2008, 12:41 PM
try connecting the egr tube BEFORE bolting the header to the head. that made it easier for me.

x2

MazdaSpeeder
10-07-2008, 12:58 PM
I had to use a butane torch and a bar to force it into place. When I connected it before attaching the header, I couldn't get the header over the studs.

njaremka
10-07-2008, 12:59 PM
oh, you should remove the bracket that holds the tube to the head, too. allows a lot more wiggle room.

oneslowp5
10-07-2008, 03:56 PM
the tube is real close but the nut that hold the tube on starts to cross thread when i try to tighten it. Can you block that tube off with out setting off any check engine lights I know on the older cars you can

i12drivemyMP5
10-07-2008, 04:11 PM
header on the studs, loosen tube clamp, thread connection to header, bolt header to engine, tighten tube clamp, connect exhaust.

br289165
10-11-2008, 02:31 AM
If you do it correctly it won't be difficult.
1st. header on studs tighten 2 studs so header is flush w/ head.
2nd. remove bolt on EGR tube to block (10 mm socket w/ long extension)
3rd. align EGR tube end to EGR header threaded mount as best as possible, (just the flared tube end, leave the EGR nut back).
4th. use a pry bar between the EGR tube and the block to align precisely.
5th. pull on pry bar as necessary with right hand while aligning then tightening EGR nut to the header.Once the nut turns freely tighten until it wont turn any more (make sure threads are clean). There should be no need for bending anything or heating anything or forcing anything, believe me I've done it many times,use patience and it will be right.





header on the studs, loosen tube clamp, thread connection to header, bolt header to engine, tighten tube clamp, connect exhaust.

xDJ DUBx
11-03-2008, 03:49 PM
Can't wait to install my header, ah I need money!

mx-p5
11-03-2008, 03:53 PM
Just reinstalled a header. lol

Went from stock to obx to stock and now to Ractive

OBX:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3263/2504616873_c8fe719402_o.jpg

And now Ractive Long Tube
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y13/cbrjeeper/DSC01297.jpg

mazda3rev
11-20-2008, 01:33 AM
hey does anyone know where i can find some cams for the 2.0L or if they have them out yet because finding performance parts for this engine is really difficult. if anyone can help me out it would be great

mazda3rev
11-20-2008, 01:35 AM
forgot to let you know I got a 08 mazda 3

br289165
11-21-2008, 05:17 AM
Try corksport




hey does anyone know where i can find some cams for the 2.0L or if they have them out yet because finding performance parts for this engine is really difficult. if anyone can help me out it would be great

mx-p5
11-21-2008, 08:36 AM
don't the 3's come with a 2.3 rather than a 2.o?

nate0123
11-21-2008, 08:39 AM
don't the 3's come with a 2.3 rather than a 2.o?
on the sedan, 2.0 is standard, 2.3 available
on the hatch, 2.3 is standard

mx-p5
11-21-2008, 08:44 AM
gotcha. thanks Nate. I didn't know that.

frank354
11-22-2008, 12:32 PM
i striped the spring bolt what do i do?

br289165
11-22-2008, 02:22 PM
If your talkin bout the spring bolt from the header to midpipe, cut it with a dremel (cutting wheel) buy a new spring bolt set at the dealer, I replaced all the old shit when I put header on. Do it right the 1st time bro.



i striped the spring bolt what do i do?

frank354
11-22-2008, 07:14 PM
is the spring bolt absolutely necessary? i just got a new bolt and its holdn up, also the 2nd o2 sensor is stuck on the old header how should i go about removing it?

TWISFM
11-22-2008, 07:21 PM
http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/rr270/twisfm/STA60009_1.jpg

frank354
11-23-2008, 12:51 AM
i put it on today, but couldnt get the egr tube bolt thing to screw onto header. looks lined up but wont screw. anyone else have this problem

MazdaSpeeder
11-23-2008, 01:20 AM
It's a pretty common problem. I used a butane torch and a bar to heat the tube and force it to line up. It was a lot of work, that's for sure. I think an easier solution is to loose the EGR tube on the other end to give some play. The best way to do it is to thread the tube on before tighening down the header to the block.

TWISFM
11-23-2008, 01:22 AM
put the egr on before bolting to the head

br289165
11-23-2008, 06:17 AM
Please listen or read. I put my header on no probs at all.
1. You should use the springs (they're designed for flex in the system)
2. Stuck o2; pb blaster the shit out -of it mine came out real easy
3. no torches needed!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Note: if you get frustrated walk the fuck away and return in a bit or you will fuck something up! It's easy if you think it out.
- Don't mount EGR nut before attaching header to head, you have a better chance this way of stripping the header mounting bolts in the head from misalignment and then you'll really be fucked (aluminum head remember), steel header/EGR Nut much less easy to strip and easier to die if it does.
4.insert header/ exhaust mani. bolts until they are almost all the way in(but not tight)
5.remove EGR tube bracket bolt with a long ext.10mm socket
6.use a long 12" or more screwdriver/pry bar
7.insert pry tool between EGR tube and strong part of housing on trans
housing and pull toward you (w/right hand) while aligning the EGR Nut to EGR header fitting and screw it on (w/left hand) . make sure threads are real clean. You can use a little lube on the header threads.
8. tighten header bolts to head.
cross tighten bolts ( DO Not overtighten they will strip or break if you do!)
9. recheck bolts after hot cold engine cycle.



i put it on today, but couldnt get the egr tube bolt thing to screw onto header. looks lined up but wont screw. anyone else have this problem

Tzar177
11-23-2008, 10:10 AM
Just reinstalled a header. lol

Went from stock to obx to stock and now to Ractive

Feel any difference?

CTt3P5
01-29-2009, 01:21 PM
I'll be installing the Ractive header soon on mine and thanks to living in the NE I am sure I'll be losing a few bolts to the torch. That said, I decided to buy all new gaskets, bolts, nuts, springs, washers etc from Jason at http://www.onlinemazdaparts.com before I started.

Here's a rundown of the items and their part #'s along with quantity I bought for others who may need them:

Exhaust Manifold Gasket (1) - FS0113460A

Bolts (8) - 9YA010801

Spring Bolts, these are a different animal as you'll have to buy the following parts seperately to 'build' them
Studs (2) - FP3920WA1
Springs (2) - BP4840582A
Nuts (2) - 999401000
Washers (2) - 999521030

Donut Gasket (1) - BP4840581A

The following items I purchased as I will also be swapping my stock midpipe for an MSP midpipe:

Gasket To Pre-silencer (1) - FSB840305

Cat To Pre-silencer Bolts (2) - FP1320WA4

Cat To Pre-silencer Nuts (2) - JE1040355

I also chose to buy the O2 wire extension vs splicing my own so I can re-route the 2nd O2 sensor to the midpipe:

Mid Oxygen Sensor Harness (1) - BPY167020

mx-p5
01-29-2009, 01:27 PM
Feel any difference?

between OBX and Ractive?

Slightly better top end power

OBX mated to the Magnaflow sounded straight beastly in town, and noisy at highwayspeeds

Ractive is much.......less beastly??..lol..around town and MUCH better at highway speeds

Tzar177
01-31-2009, 01:34 PM
I'll be installing the Ractive header soon on mine and thanks to living in the NE I am sure I'll be losing a few bolts to the torch. That said, I decided to buy all new gaskets, bolts, nuts, springs, washers etc from Jason at http://www.onlinemazdaparts.com before I started.

Here's a rundown of the items and their part #'s along with quantity I bought for others who may need them:

Exhaust Manifold Gasket (1) - FS0113460A

Bolts (8) - 9YA010801

Spring Bolts, these are a different animal as you'll have to buy the following parts seperately to 'build' them
Studs (2) - FP3920WA1
Springs (2) - BP4840582A
Nuts (2) - 999401000
Washers (2) - 999521030

Donut Gasket (1) - BP4840581A

The following items I purchased as I will also be swapping my stock midpipe for an MSP midpipe:

Gasket To Pre-silencer (1) - FSB840305

Cat To Pre-silencer Bolts (2) - FP1320WA4

Cat To Pre-silencer Nuts (2) - JE1040355

I also chose to buy the O2 wire extension vs splicing my own so I can re-route the 2nd O2 sensor to the midpipe:

Mid Oxygen Sensor Harness (1) - BPY167020

Where did you get that O2 wire extension from?

mx-p5
01-31-2009, 02:43 PM
onlinemazdaparts

I"m pretty sure

cplagge
01-31-2009, 11:08 PM
okay guys, im having problems with the 1st o2 sensor... it comes into contact with the brake slave cylinder, and blows a fuse. any ideas how to go around this? pics:

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/cplagge/IMG_0225.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/cplagge/IMG_0226.jpg

br289165
02-02-2009, 03:18 AM
i'd like to help but i can't make out thewire coming off the O2 . What's all the brown frayed stuff around it?



okay guys, im having problems with the 1st o2 sensor... it comes into contact with the brake slave cylinder, and blows a fuse. any ideas how to go around this? pics:

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/cplagge/IMG_0225.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/cplagge/IMG_0226.jpg