Help me guesstimate

[Subghetto]

I currently have this on my car and I'am preparing to build my car bit for N/A then turbo it for more power once I bulliet proof my damn auto tranny anyway can someone help me calculate how much power (guesstamiting) I have now and I will have after these future mods thanks

Right now I have:

HKS axle-back exhaust
UR underive racing pulley
Injen CAI intake

Future N/A plans before FI:

Essential Speed IM (too lazy to port&polish the stock one)
Big Bore TB
Wagner Header (ordered)
Wagner Hi-flow pre-cat N/A DP
Wagner Mid-pipe w/o Cat
Wagner Stage II or Stage III N/A cams
Water Pump and Alternator Pulley Set
Cam Gears
Pistons that will work with FI also (not sure what kind)
Flex-Fite Fan
Grounding Kit
Plugs and Wires
AWR Performance radiator
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator

Btw.. If anyone of you guys know any other N/A mods that won't interfer with FI in the future don't be shy to chime in.

[Replica]

Maybe 125whp....

Currently, you're probably sitting at 110whp. Not sure what you mean by pistons that will also work with FI. Low comp? High comp? At any rate, I don't think a full point of compression will add much power anyway. Also, those NA cams might increase cylinder pressure due to the lobe seperation, which would be bad for boost.

[Subghetto]

Maybe 125whp....

Currently, you're probably sitting at 110whp. Not sure what you mean by pistons that will also work with FI. Low comp? High comp? At any rate, I don't think a full point of compression will add much power anyway. Also, those NA cams might increase cylinder pressure due to the lobe seperation, which would be bad for boost.Thanks hmmm then I guess FI cams I hear wagner is going to make these soon, about the pistons what ever works with boost better not too savy on compression or pistons lol.

[Replica]

Thanks hmmm then I guess FI cams I hear wagner is going to make these soon, about the pistons what ever works with boost better not too savy on compression or pistons lol.Low compression pistons will let you run more boost.

High compression pistons won't let you run as much boost, but you will make more power per lb of boost. Most people prefer low compression because it is easier to tune and has a lower threshold for detonation. If it were me, I'd just get some nice forged pistons at stock compression rating.

[Gen1GT]

I currently have this on my car and I'am preparing to build my car bit for N/A then turbo it for more power once I bulliet proof my damn auto tranny anyway can someone help me calculate how much power (guesstamiting) I have now and I will have after these future mods thanks

Right now I have:

HKS axle-back exhaust
UR underive racing pulley
Injen CAI intake

Future N/A plans before FI:

Essential Speed IM (too lazy to port&polish the stock one)
Big Bore TB
Wagner Header (ordered)
Wagner Hi-flow pre-cat N/A DP
Wagner Mid-pipe w/o Cat
Wagner Stage II or Stage III N/A cams
Water Pump and Alternator Pulley Set
Cam Gears
Pistons that will work with FI also (not sure what kind)
Flex-Fite Fan
Grounding Kit
Plugs and Wires
AWR Performance radiator
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator

Btw.. If anyone of you guys know any other N/A mods that won't interfer with FI in the future don't be shy to chime in.I agree. You're probably at 110whp now. With all those mods, I'd say 125whp if your engine survived lean induced detonation. All those mods and stand-alone engine management, 150-160, depending on cams and compression. Shoot for a dynamic compression ratio of about 8:1, whatever you decide. Longer duration cams need more compression.

Don't forget to add to that list:

-rods
-head gasket(and any other gasket that is removed when the engine is apart)
-port matching(including TB to intake manifold)
-stronger springs/retainers(larger cams move the powerband up, you'll also
need to move your rev limit up to make use of them)
-headwork to allow for increased air demand of the work you've done
-might as well get a 3 angle valve job while you're in there


If you want your engine to work more than 20,000miles after all that work I'd also:

-lighten and balance crankshaft, with all tolorances checked
-have it magnafluxed while it's out(you can never be over prepared)
-chamfer all oil passages, debur all castings, forging marks
-oil cooler, higher pressure rad cap,

Pistons and rods should be balanced from the shop, so you're good there.

I'd stay get 11:1 pistons(make sure you have deck height clearance, since those'll be custom pistons) and a .5mm headgasket to raise compression for NA. When you decide to boost it, sell the 11:1s, put in 8:1s and a 1mm head gasket. Also, get maybe high lift(9.5-10mm) 264 duration cams, so they can be used for FI too. Don't forget to check piston to valve clearance when the engine is being built.

[Subghetto]

if your engine survived lean induced detonation.
How would this be caused and how could I prevent it?

[Replica]

How would this be caused and how could I prevent it?No idea, I really don't agree with that. How can a MAF car run lean with basic bolt ons? (eekdance)

[Gen1GT]

No idea, I really don't agree with that. How can a MAF car run lean with basic bolt ons? (eekdance)
Cams and pistons aren't basic bolt-ons. You'll be increasing the fuel requirements of your engine, without increasing the fuel. The OBD II computer won't give you the fuel you need to increase power, and it can only retard ignition timing so far. You'll have 170hp worth of air, with 130hp worth of fuel. You will run lean. Lean runs hot, not to mention down on power.

[Replica]

Cams and pistons aren't basic bolt-ons. You'll be increasing the fuel requirements of your engine, without increasing the fuel. The OBD II computer won't give you the fuel you need to increase power, and it can only retard ignition timing so far. You'll have 170hp worth of air, with 130hp worth of fuel. You will run lean. Lean runs hot, not to mention down on power.Oops, i read it backwards. I thought you were saying his current mods might be lean. The forged pistons, if are stock compression, shouldn't change anything a/f related. The cams won't cause too lean of conditions unless they have some hefty lift. Not too familiar with the cams he was talking about.

[Subghetto]

Not too familiar with the cams he was talking about.Supposedly the Wagnermotorsports Stage II cams are perfectly streetable the Stage III on the other hand or more for race application require titanuim vavle springs and retainers and probably the AEM EMS.

[Replica]

Supposedly the Wagnermotorsports Stage II cams are perfectly streetable the Stage III on the other hand or more for race application require titanuim vavles and retainers and probably the AEM EMS.Never know until you get them in there. I test drove an SI with mild skunk2 cams and it detonated HARD on top end. Everything I read said they were "streetable." Not that I'm doubting the Wagner stuff, or that Skunk2 has much to do with them, just don't believe everything you read.

[Subghetto]

This is what I found on the cams:

These are mild street cams guys. The idle will be about normal but the smoothness will be felt. They provide great drivability. The more radical cams are our stage III that we are working on. They will be for the guys who want to go all out on NA application with no forced induction.These stage II cams are great upgrades for both NA and FI because of the complimented lift they provide to the stock setup.The factory timing is pretty conservative on the P5. That is actually our test vehicle. With premium fuel you will be fine.The cams we came up with will compliment both setups very well. (FI and NA) We did this on purpose because some want good drivability but still want to help increase VE without doing a ton of head work and costly valve changes for a street car.

Yeah I do see your point though you never know (eekdance)

[Gen1GT]

I don't want to start this up again...but like I said before, cams mean nothing unless you know the specs....

[p5sundevil]

exactly because you will need to know how to work the rest of the car, obviously knowing the specs of the cams is essential to know potential flow and air volume rates so they you can mod your head, IM, exhaust manifold and air/fuel ratio accordingly.

[Subghetto]

exactly because you will need to know how to work the rest of the car, obviously knowing the specs of the cams is essential to know potential flow and air volume rates so they you can mod your head, IM, exhaust manifold and air/fuel ratio accordingly.Wagner is not giving out the specs, I'am going to e-mail essential speed and see if I can get the specs on their IM but I doubt they will give them up (sad1)

[akhilleus]

I know the specs...they are high lift(w/o new springs) and only a small increase in duration less than 10deg. also i would think that header and cams alone would put him over 125. Finally i think messing with the pistons is a waste if u plan on going FI since u need low comp for FI hi-comp for NA. the pnp will show some mild gains. Really after the cams and header save up for an ems. the rest of that stuff isnt worth it. Especially since u will be needing to visit lentech at some point too.

[Replica]

Wagner is not giving out the specs, I'am going to e-mail essential speed and see if I can get the specs on their IM but I doubt they will give them up (sad1)That's dumb, why would anyone buy cams that they don't know the specs on?

[Subghetto]

That's dumb, why would anyone buy cams that they don't know the specs on?Because the cams have been dynoed or so they say although I have'nt seen the dyno sheets yet.They are also on 2k2silvermp5's car.

[Gen1GT]

That's dumb, why would anyone buy cams that they don't know the specs on?
LOL!!!

I said this when I first started posting here, and everyone jumped on my back right away. But obviously, I agree with you, since cams are the brain of an engine, and you build entire engines around cam specs.

[akhilleus]

At least you know they are high lift with moderate duration. That translates into all around power, with little low end loss and some high end overlap. Also the jdm intake cam and "msp" exhaust cam didnt really advertise their specs either. So basically screw the staged cams and get some custom ones...it makes so much more sense

[TXMazdaSpeeder]

Maybe 125whp....

Currently, you're probably sitting at 110whp. Not sure what you mean by pistons that will also work with FI. Low comp? High comp? At any rate, I don't think a full point of compression will add much power anyway. Also, those NA cams might increase cylinder pressure due to the lobe seperation, which would be bad for boost.

with a stand alone he'd be closer to 150 aftfer the future plans.