possible recall???

[mader]

Hey all...
I just got a message on my answering machine from my mazda dealer. She said there is a concern with the transmission and that I need to take the car in . I didn't complain about any problem, so I'm wondering if anyone has heard about a confirmed recall for the Mazda3 tranny (5-speed)?

[goldwing2000]

News to me...

I just left my dealer and they didn't say anything.

[Dave2521]

Ive been noticing that sometimes it doesnt want to go into first sometimes when im getting ready to go. And also when going from 4th to 5th it seems like it pops into gear but it doesn't... Id like to hear updates on what your dealership tells you.

[Tonys3]

Intresting, keep us informed please, a couple times i have grinded gears going into 3rd , (i have been driving manuals for 9 years)

[Nathan G]

Intresting, keep us informed please, a couple times i have grinded gears going into 3rd , (i have been driving manuals for 9 years)
Wow! Same here! I thought it was just me, but I've been driving a 5spd for 7 years. (confused)

[cochizzle]

ive noticed that reverse never seems to want to engage unless i run through the gearbox a little

[enigM@]

sounds like similar problems with the proteges

[Nathan G]

ive noticed that reverse never seems to want to engage unless i run through the gearbox a little
That's with every mazda, even the Miata and RX-8. I think it goes away after 7k miles.

[RonH]

That's the same problem the ZX2 had, using a Mazda 5 speed tranny. So I guess it's the norm. My buddy's '92 Mustang 5.0 had the same problem when it was new.

[zoomee]

My 5 door got to just over 500 miles and the transmission started to feel like it was filled with setting concrete when going from 1 to 2 to 3. All the other gears are fine and the transmission makes no abnormal noises. The problem occurs whether the engine is running or not so it could be with the shifting linkage.

This morning I couldn't shift out of first gear! I Googled the the symptoms and found some consumer complaints with more or less the same problem. The NHTSA lists no Defect Investigations or TSB's. The car is at the dealer now. I'll post the results.

[batmang]

ive noticed that reverse never seems to want to engage unless i run through the gearbox a little
this has happened with every manual ive ever driven. its just a manual thing. i dunno why, but for me, they all do this.

[blizz81]

this has happened with every manual ive ever driven. its just a manual thing. i dunno why, but for me, they all do this.


Ditto, pretty much. I always thought it was in the area of the reverse gear not needing and therefore not having a synchromesh (or if so, nothing like a triple-cone). But I should be careful here lest I miseducate - I'm no tranny guru.

I'm still kind of watching out on the 2-3 synchro scratching that some people seem to be reporting. It doesn't seem to be as rampant, widespread, or ominous as say, the synchro issues in the RSXs (which themselves, are more or less manifested frequently on forums and not so much if you go and ask your average everyday RSX owner).

Other things seem not to be cause for concern, though I might have to watch zoomee's issue/search for similar reports.

[zoomee]

After 3 days in the shop the dealer finally said that they were going to have to take out the transmission and disassemble it to diagnose the problem. I told them they should just replace it and let Mazda do R&D on their time, not mine. I also complained about the crappy loaner they gave me to which the dealer replied there was nothing they could do. That did it! I contacted MazdaUSA and gave them an earfull. Next thing I know the dealer has arranged for me to get an upgraded loaner (Volvo S40, what irony, as this is the same chassis as the 3). I have also informed the dealer that I want the new rear brake pads that Mazda has released to correct the accelerated wear of the rear brake rotors. We'll see......

[bvmazda3]

I have also informed the dealer that I want the new rear brake pads that Mazda has released to correct the accelerated wear of the rear brake rotors. We'll see......

How would you know if you have these pads already? Did they all get them past a certain build date?

[zoomee]

How would you know if you have these pads already? Did they all get them past a certain build date?

I've heard that any 3 built prior to mid March will have the bad pads. The new pads should be available to the dealers at this time. The part number is BPYK-26-48Z. I guess the dealer won't put them in unless you specifically ask for them. Perhaps if everyone filed a complaint with the Office of Defects Investigation at the NHTSA (www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov) Mazda would be forced to issue a TSB which would provide leverage with the dealer. I filed one for the brakes and one for the transmission 2 days ago. So far there has been only one other complaint filed but I keep hearing that alot of us are experiencing the problem. If the NHTSA would get 100 complaints that would do it!

[skoot]

i hate you people who whine about your problems tough luck you bought the car so stop crying like a little girl if you dont like the car sell it

[Dave2521]

or you could just bypass the thread and not worry about it. if we bitch about our cars, what are you bitching about? (thumb) (hah) Sucka (poke)

[G'sMAZDA3]

yea for the past month or so theres been a squeking sound coming from the clutch pedal something is screwed up. they said they couldnt find the problem until they called the mazda hotline or something, now ive been waiting for the part for a two weeks now

[blizz81]

yea for the past month or so theres been a squeking sound coming from the clutch pedal something is screwed up. they said they couldnt find the problem until they called the mazda hotline or something, now ive been waiting for the part for a two weeks now

Just for a squeaking?

I wouldn't get too worried just yet. What part are they planning on replacing?

[Zoom Zoom Zoom]

Just like to know if Mazdas are considered to be reliable vehicles? From reading this thread, there seems to be problems with the Mazda 3.

[PeteyBoy3K]

it's a universal law: if you go out of your way to please customers, maybe one out of 10 will go out of their way to say something nice about you to one or two people.

However... The second something goes wrong to make a customer concerned, they will tell everybody... parents, friends, forum members, all in an attempt to see what is wrong and whether they got screwed, etc etc...

I'm not sure I've seen anything that constitutes a major problem yet... and for a first model year... I think these cars have been pretty stable/happy... and in the meantime, random squeaks/problems are fixed under warranty and you get a loaner car so that you aren't stranded.

[taylor5]

You are probably waiting on the same back-ordered cluctch part I am waiting on...the 'slave cylinder'. Mine makes a squeeking/clicking noise every time I push it in 'and' when I release it. My dealer says the part is on "National Back-Order"...meaning that there is an issue going on with many owners/cars. I am going to check on these "newer" pads and see what the deal is.

[blizz81]

Slave cylinder, eh?

Kind of makes me wonder if a little grease in the right spot near the linkage/slave cylinder would alleviate the squeak, or if the slave cylinder itself is actually faulty. For those that are waiting on this, are you still driving your cars? I would think it'd still be ok to drive - squeaky and perhaps a little mushiness in the pedal. But if it compromises the hydraulics...(leaking fluid?)

I wonder about the grease because it could be one of those blind stab new-car fixes where they'll opt to replace the part instead of diagnosing the problem, etc. But I doubt it....either way, doesn't sound too major if it's slave cyl.



I'm not sure I've seen anything that constitutes a major problem yet...


Not that I can see. It's too bad if people come on and read about complaints of crunching engaging the reverse gear, or paint chipping, and get the mindset of major problems...but such is the forum life.

[BrewMaster]

better to have the slave cylinder go out under warranty than later on. that gets expensive. shit, while they're at it, if they'd do it, you might want to have them replace the master cylinder too. they are both involved in the same hydraulic system so I wonder how they know it is the slave or the master cylinder. i guess that's why they are mechanics and I'm not...

[MSP2746]

i hate you people who whine about your problems tough luck you bought the car so stop crying like a little girl if you dont like the car sell it
God forbid people try to find out if other owners of the same car have been experiencing the same problems, or to inform other owners of what they've come up against. Everybody knows the car's upsides, that's why they bought it, it's the downsides that need to be proliferated. Obviously these posts should be taken with a grain of salt, not every 3 is going to develop the same symptoms, but to say they should just suck it up or sell it? Come on, are you really that moronic? I've got a Mazdaspeed Protege, which has it's fair share of problems, hell, it's been at the dealership for over a week now getting a coolant leak fixed, but that doesn't mean I want to get rid of it. I love the car. Rest assured, however, that I'll be posting to the board when I get my car back what was wrong and exactly what the dealership did to fix it.

[willy65000]

i hate you people who whine about your problems tough luck you bought the car so stop crying like a little girl if you dont like the car sell it



Go away!

[taylor5]

Well said MSP2746 and Willy65000,

I feel the exact same way, I love my car and dont want to sell it even with the problems. This car rocks, but needs some fine tuning and thats why we post.

Skoot ought to be kicked off this forum or never allowed to post again....What a whiner "he" is....sounds like he has "hate" running through his soul....he needs help. It is a shame we have to be associated with someone like that....and he is a newbee at that. Suck this Skoot(bj)

[IMC Mazda Axela]

Hey look I'm kinda new here I haven't posted yet but I have been reading for a while now and well all I can say is I check here to see what is wrong with other mazda 3's and see if I also have any of those problems. I have had mine for over 3 or 4 months and have had no problems at all. Only thing is those brake pads which I will be getting replaced. I have a 1200 watt amp in my 3 and two 12" subs (AB's) I have after market 10000K series HID bulbs, tint, white underbody lights just for show don't even really like them and might take them off and all my stuff was self installed. I don't know about everyone else and their problems but I may have yet to expierence these defects if so I sure do like the fact that I may have a heads up by reading about others problems here so I say keep posing them let us know and we will let you know too. Geez you know if you don't want to read about ppl's problems then don't read here. -The End...

[badAzLava3]

Wowsers..

Reliability issues?
You guys must lead a sheltered life...might I suggest a good GM or VW product instead?

Squeaks = nuisance
Dead car on side of road = reliability issue

Blizz is right.
Lithium grease on the shift fork cures the squeak every time.
The odds of the slave or master being bad on a new car are close enough to zero that I'd take that bet and your money every time.

I also agree that the easy solution for the dealer is always parts replacement.
Reimbursed by the manufacturer, no diagnosis time or brains needed.
No wonder mechanical and critical thinking skills are disappearing.

[taylor5]

I asked about greasing the forks or area it spins on, and the dealer said that design does not allow lubricating or greasing, you have no choice but to replace the part. They said they tried to grease it first and realized there is "nowhere" to grease. Go figure....

[3XMAZDA]

yea for the past month or so theres been a squeking sound coming from the clutch pedal something is screwed up. they said they couldnt find the problem until they called the mazda hotline or something, now ive been waiting for the part for a two weeks now



WHERE THE CLUTCH SLAVE CYL. PUSHES UP AGAINST THE FORK THERE
IS THIS SORT OF BALL AND SOCKET TRY GREASING THIS AREA, AND SEE IF THAT DOESN'T STOP THE CLICKING AND SQUEAKING, MY 2000 PROTEGE HAD THAT SAME PROBLEM AND THIS SEEMED TO RESOLVE THE CONCERN.

[carperformance3]

I just got my Mazda3 about two weeks ago, although I've been racking up the mileage fast. This is my third car, and my first new one, and I have had more problems in the first week and a half then with any of the others in such a time frame. Don't get me wrong, I absolutely love the car, but this is becoming frustrating.
First problem happened on the first day. I received it in Lancaster county with 116 miles on the odo. It was driven by my dealer personally at my request, because I wanted the car trailered up so it would not be abused. They claimed they couldn't do that, but that he would drive it to make sure it wasn't abused. Whether or not he took it easy, I don't know, but he seems like a good guy, I spent a lot of time with him on the phone discussing exactly how I wanted my 3. So anyways, driving my 3 with about 160 miles on it, i hear a popping noise and I find a spring assembly that fell off my clutch peddle. It was a three peice assembly, comprising of a plastic, donut shaped, cupped piece that had a long pastic shaft that had a circular cup on the other side that was greased. Entire assembly about 3 inches long. Took my car right back to the dealership and they couldn't figure out where the part went, said they would have it ordered for me same day next week. Returned and the part had not arrived yet.
Second problem, within the first week my tweeters blew out. I listen to my music loud, but I only had the volume maxed for about 5 seconds ever, just to see how loud it went. Usually have my volume set around 20. I don't know if this is that hard on my speakers, but the way I feel, factory speakers should not be able to blow with the volume at full blast, ever, let alone at less than 2/3's of max volume.
Third problem, maybe not a problem, lost about 1/2-3/4 of a quart of oil after about 800 miles on my 3. Topped it off, changed oil when I reached 1500 miles, get all the breaking in metals out of my oil system, didn't notice oil loss at that time. I drained it when it was cold, so I didn't get an accurate reading of the dipstick before I changed my oil.
Fourth problem, I found oil drips when i noticed my oil was low at ~800 miles. Only a few drops, but I've cleaned them off and continue to find them underneath my exhaust on a brace to where my passenger side axle meets with the half shaft. I am starting to believe this is where the leak is coming from, and that it is not motor oil, which was my first thought. This might have something to do with the lack of my clutch pedal spring. Or both could have something to do with how my car was driven before I came to own it.
Fifth problem, my car might have a bad ground. A few days ago my 3 started to shock me every time I get out. Usually a sign of a bad ground.

If anyone has experienced any of these symptoms, please let me know. I don't want to spend my every day off running to the dealership.

[carperformance3]

i've had my master cylinder replaced, and i noticed a big difference in how my car drove. very smooth. for a couple weeks. now its starting to seem jumpy between gears, has anyone else noticed this. my 3 makes me question my driving ability, but i've drivin literally hundreds of manuals due to my jobs, and i'm rather convinced thats not it. has anyone else wondered if their car seemed a little overly jerky? please let me know. i've had it at the dealership, they bled the clutch. still didn't fix the problem, now they are saying they don't think there is a problem.

[r1ceburner]

I just got my Mazda3 about two weeks ago, although I've been racking up the mileage fast. This is my third car, and my first new one, and I have had more problems in the first week and a half then with any of the others in such a time frame. Don't get me wrong, I absolutely love the car, but this is becoming frustrating.
First problem happened on the first day. I received it in Lancaster county with 116 miles on the odo. It was driven by my dealer personally at my request, because I wanted the car trailered up so it would not be abused. They claimed they couldn't do that, but that he would drive it to make sure it wasn't abused. Whether or not he took it easy, I don't know, but he seems like a good guy, I spent a lot of time with him on the phone discussing exactly how I wanted my 3. So anyways, driving my 3 with about 160 miles on it, i hear a popping noise and I find a spring assembly that fell off my clutch peddle. It was a three peice assembly, comprising of a plastic, donut shaped, cupped piece that had a long pastic shaft that had a circular cup on the other side that was greased. Entire assembly about 3 inches long. Took my car right back to the dealership and they couldn't figure out where the part went, said they would have it ordered for me same day next week. Returned and the part had not arrived yet.
Second problem, within the first week my tweeters blew out. I listen to my music loud, but I only had the volume maxed for about 5 seconds ever, just to see how loud it went. Usually have my volume set around 20. I don't know if this is that hard on my speakers, but the way I feel, factory speakers should not be able to blow with the volume at full blast, ever, let alone at less than 2/3's of max volume.
Third problem, maybe not a problem, lost about 1/2-3/4 of a quart of oil after about 800 miles on my 3. Topped it off, changed oil when I reached 1500 miles, get all the breaking in metals out of my oil system, didn't notice oil loss at that time. I drained it when it was cold, so I didn't get an accurate reading of the dipstick before I changed my oil.
Fourth problem, I found oil drips when i noticed my oil was low at ~800 miles. Only a few drops, but I've cleaned them off and continue to find them underneath my exhaust on a brace to where my passenger side axle meets with the half shaft. I am starting to believe this is where the leak is coming from, and that it is not motor oil, which was my first thought. This might have something to do with the lack of my clutch pedal spring. Or both could have something to do with how my car was driven before I came to own it.
Fifth problem, my car might have a bad ground. A few days ago my 3 started to shock me every time I get out. Usually a sign of a bad ground.

If anyone has experienced any of these symptoms, please let me know. I don't want to spend my every day off running to the dealership.

Do you have cloth seats or leather? If you have cloth, the "shocks" you are receiving are static electicity! My old Pontiac Sunfire used to the same thing all of the time. If your car had a bad ground, it wouldn't start, wouldn't run well, or you'd smell the distinct aroma of burning wire insulation. Your car is going to draw X many amperes of energy to ground, no matter how it has to get there. Your electrical system is designed to spread those amperes of work (in heat) across multiple grounding points. If one of those grounding points is bad/loose, the electrical load will go to one of the other ground points. How well the other ground points do with the increased amount of amperage flowing through directly relates to the thinckness of the wire used.

It's possible you're leaking tranny oil out of the half-shaft seal.

[blizz81]

but the way I feel, factory speakers should not be able to blow with the volume at full blast, ever


That doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me. When would you expect them to blow, at low volumes? Even when you use quality crossovers to tune in frequencies to optimal ranges, you can still blow speakers, factory or not.



i've had my master cylinder replaced, and i noticed a big difference in how my car drove. very smooth. for a couple weeks. now its starting to seem jumpy between gears, has anyone else noticed this.


I haven't noticed any jumpiness outside of the period where the tranny is warming up. Does the feel of the clutch pedal change at all? Does the release point travel at all during the time you're driving it? If neither of these things happen (as well as if your clutch pedal doesn't stick to the floor until you manually lift it, though I think you would have noted this if it was to that point), then I don't think there's air in the system as per bleeding the system. Does the fluid check out ok in your new master cyl?

When the spring assembly broke originally, did they replace the entire clutch assembly?

[carperformance3]

not in the first two weeks...(in regard to the factory speakers) my first car was an 88 ford bronco2, i bought it in 98, and its speakers weren't blown...i think 2 weeks is a little extreme. especially considering i listen to the radio at 2/3s volume at the most. my new speakers haven't blown, and its been 2 months.

and for the clutch, they had to replace the entire master cylinder assembly. it was supposed to take them 1 hour (as per the instructions with the part), and it took them 4 hours. the pedal doesn't have a very different feel. i did a sort of test, maybe you can try it on your car, see if yours becomes jumpy under the same situation. perform a shift from 2nd to 3rd, while slowly accelerating and shifting at 2500 rpms, counting "one, one-thousand", from clutch in to clutch out. let me know if you try this, and how your car treats the shift.

[blizz81]

and for the clutch, they had to replace the entire master cylinder assembly. it was supposed to take them 1 hour (as per the instructions with the part), and it took them 4 hours. the pedal doesn't have a very different feel. i did a sort of test, maybe you can try it on your car, see if yours becomes jumpy under the same situation. perform a shift from 2nd to 3rd, while slowly accelerating and shifting at 2500 rpms, counting "one, one-thousand", from clutch in to clutch out. let me know if you try this, and how your car treats the shift.

Mine takes the shift smooth & free of jerkyness, though shifting slowly and at 2500rpm, anything more than a sliver of gas pedal modulation is going to bog it. Even if it's bogging, though, I don't think it'd be very jerky.

[carperformance3]

okay, see, when i did that same test, my car jerks, and kind of gives a kick when i let out the clutch.

[m_long84]

I have had the same problem as some of you here with third gear and this was the only one that I had noticed until about 2 weeks ago when it became increasingly hard to shift into reverse. I would try and try to get it into reverse and it just would not go. I know that there is a safety measure in place that stops you from shifting from a gear into reverse, but taking this into consideration and putting the car into neutral for a few seconds I still would not be able to get the car back into gear. There were a couple of times that this would work and when it did I was met with a loud metal on metal grinding sound like the teeth on the reverse gear were not matching up like it should and it would continue to skip until I pressed the clutch back in(which was right away). I don't have this problem if I shift into first gear first and then take it back to neutral and then finally to reverse, but this is a little annoying and should not be that way. I am getting my brakes replaced on saturday and am going to bring the noise up to them and see what they say. I don't drive my car hard at all and use it to commute everyday to school. I have about 24K miles on my car right now. Anyone else having a similar problem or have any clue to what's going on?

*Edit: I have only had my car since the end of August of last year.

[tsunami]

as far as the reverse thing goes.... it is a safety feature, and if you can't go into reverse the first time you try, disengage then re-engage the clutch... that has always done it for me... a lil bit of a pain but not much....

[hworth18]

You are probably waiting on the same back-ordered cluctch part I am waiting on...the 'slave cylinder'. Mine makes a squeeking/clicking noise every time I push it in 'and' when I release it. My dealer says the part is on "National Back-Order"...meaning that there is an issue going on with many owners/cars. I am going to check on these "newer" pads and see what the deal is.

I took my 3 in yesterday for the "sqeaky" clutch pedal.. They are replacing the entire clutch assembly.. And gave me a sweet Tribute to drive as a loaner.. But this was the third time I had it in for this and the first time I could prove what it was doing.. Hopefully, they will get it fixed along with the excessive rear brake dust problem.. (shady)

[WookieOnRitalin]

MMMMMMMM

Automatics....

MMMMMMMM


Hehe, I kid guys. I plan to get my 3 with an auto, so I guess I'll be missing these set of problems. I realize that riding the 3 with a clutch is more fun to drive, but resale value is much better with an auto than with a stick. I haven't heard or read anything about the auto trannies, so I guess I'll be in the clear.

As for Factory speakers, you can't push them that hard. Every car I've ever been in with factory speakers have been prone to blow out at consistent high volumes. You got to be more docile with factories because they can't take the punishment. That's why having an option like BOSE to put in the car instead of the factories is ALWAYS worth the option because you can beat those speakers up at high volumes and not be any worse for it. That's why I like the fact that the Chevy Cobalt has that as a $150 option.

Why can't Mazda do this? I know the Special Edition gets the Bose system, but after you put in an Auto and the safety package, you're around 21-22k. Blah!

[mobomelter]

Hehe, I kid guys. I plan to get my 3 with an auto, so I guess I'll be missing these set of problems. I realize that riding the 3 with a clutch is more fun to drive, but resale value is much better with an auto than with a stick.
resale value is higher because you pay MORE for an automatic to start with. getting an automatic is what a 1200 dollar upgrade?

[goldwing2000]

resale value is higher because you pay MORE for an automatic to start with. getting an automatic is what a 1200 dollar upgrade?

$900 for 2005.

[NeverSober]

If they do a recall for you guys, your lucky.....they neevr did it for ours and mine tranny does the samething.


Chris

[WookieOnRitalin]

resale value is higher because you pay MORE for an automatic to start with. getting an automatic is what a 1200 dollar upgrade?

Not to mention that a car with an automatic will have higher demand than one with a stick.

[mobomelter]

sad reality. i think certain cars shouldn't come in automatic variety though. rx8, wrx, corvette, camaro, gto, etc. those shouldn't be offered it automatic. they are sportscars (close enough) and you don't drive a sportscar with an auto.

[FreeStyLinDrive]

Hey all...
I just got a message on my answering machine from my mazda dealer. She said there is a concern with the transmission and that I need to take the car in . I didn't complain about any problem, so I'm wondering if anyone has heard about a confirmed recall for the Mazda3 tranny (5-speed)?

So what was the message about? Update please.(wiggle)

[sajack]

sad reality. i think certain cars shouldn't come in automatic variety though. rx8, wrx, corvette, camaro, gto, etc. those shouldn't be offered it automatic. they are sportscars (close enough) and you don't drive a sportscar with an auto.

Have you ever been to a Formula 1 race?
They all run automatics.

[wongpres]

Have you ever been to a Formula 1 race?
They all run automatics.
F1 does not run automatics - they run sequential manual gearboxes and one of the new rules for 2005 is drivers are required to manually initiate all shifts (last year shifts could be programmed in, although almost all drivers still did their own downshifts last year for better control under braking).

The cool thing is this type of technology is becoming more and more commonplace on road cars (e.g. Audi's DSG, BMW's SMG, all the same concept, just slightly different marketing names). Mazda has a SMG project in progress, it may or may not reach production, and definitely not for the Mazda3.