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Badvmc
08-05-2002, 06:47 PM
I read somewhere, not to use Fram oil filters. (no)

What is the reason for that? What is the best recomended oil filter on the market? (scratch)

ZoomZoomH
08-05-2002, 06:54 PM
someone posted his research on the suckiness of Fram filter here:

http://www.protegeclub.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4301&highlight=fram+oil+filter

(forgive my sins for linking to the 'other' forum :eek: :'( )

Racer 5
08-05-2002, 06:56 PM
I use Mazda OEM filters. The way I see it, a Mazda engineer sat down and designed the thing, was supported by a huge budget, and was backed by years of research.

I use Mazda oil filters with AMSOIL synthetic, car runs unbelievably smooth.

ZoomZoomH
08-05-2002, 07:01 PM
Originally posted by Racer 5
I use Mazda OEM filters. The way I see it, a Mazda engineer sat down and designed the thing, was supported by a huge budget, and was backed by years of research.

I use Mazda oil filters with AMSOIL synthetic, car runs unbelievably smooth.

Ditto.

I use Mobil 1 in conjunction with OEM filter.

I should also add that I use the OEM V6 filter, which is about 3/4" taller than the Protege filter. It's a perfect fit and should provide additional filtering capacity :)

Badvmc
08-05-2002, 07:14 PM
And what about the k&N oil filter? (thought)

Don
08-05-2002, 11:32 PM
Originally posted by ZoomZoomH


Ditto.

I use Mobil 1 in conjunction with OEM filter.

I should also add that I use the OEM V6 filter, which is about 3/4" taller than the Protege filter. It's a perfect fit and should provide additional filtering capacity :)

It may be a "perfect fit" as it screws onto the filter plate without leaking, but the insides of the filter may be quite different, as to the anti-drainback valve (if any) or the bypass valve pressure or several other things.

As you said, "an engineer, supported by a huge budget . . . " may have designed a filter for the 4 banger, and a similar (yet completely different) one for the V-6.

Don

ZoomZoomH
08-05-2002, 11:54 PM
Originally posted by Don


It may be a "perfect fit" as it screws onto the filter plate without leaking, but the insides of the filter may be quite different, as to the anti-drainback valve (if any) or the bypass valve pressure or several other things.

As you said, "an engineer, supported by a huge budget . . . " may have designed a filter for the 4 banger, and a similar (yet completely different) one for the V-6.

Don

we shall see... when I asked the parts department guy if the v6 filter will work with the Protege, he confirmed that the v6 filter will indeed work with the Protege.

I'll let you know when my engine seizes up :rolleyes:

PR5hokie
08-06-2002, 08:15 AM
When I changed my oil I switched to a K&N filter. It is a bit more $ but I switched to synthetic and I can lengthen my time between changes. K&N has the drain back "valve" and also has a 1" nut welded on the end for easy removal/installation. I like this feature since as you all know there is like zero room to work down there.

Matt

MP5s Make Ready
08-06-2002, 08:52 AM
Wow that was some good information, that guy deserves a medal for all the research he had to do. :cool:

Kooldino
08-06-2002, 10:27 AM
I use OEM filters + Mobil 1. ALTHOUGH, my dealer charges a whopping $10.10 for an OEM filter! Where can I get one cheaper?

MP3_PR5
08-06-2002, 10:52 AM
Originally posted by Kooldino
I use OEM filters + Mobil 1. ALTHOUGH, my dealer charges a whopping $10.10 for an OEM filter! Where can I get one cheaper?

Damn, I just bought two at my dealer and it only cost me about $13! :wtf: Try a different dealer!

JcsMP3
08-06-2002, 11:07 AM
Originally posted by PR5hokie
When I changed my oil I switched to a K&N filter. It is a bit more $ but I switched to synthetic and I can lengthen my time between changes.

Matt

WRONG WRONG WRONG !!!!

Sorry but you can't prolong your oil change juse cause you have synthetic. Synthetic may provide better lubrication, even little or no chance of thermal break down... but that's not the point of changing your oil frequently.

Changing your oil every 3000 miles it is to remove the junk that is sitting in the oil. The deposits is what causes the engine wear... not the oil itself. I have never heard of any engine having any oil thermally breaking down... meaning -losing their lubricating abilities...

Change your oil more frequently and this will improve engine life, regardless if you use synthetic or regular oil.

Jc

fastdrvr23
08-06-2002, 11:56 AM
Originally posted by Kooldino
I use OEM filters + Mobil 1. ALTHOUGH, my dealer charges a whopping $10.10 for an OEM filter! Where can I get one cheaper?

I bought 10 OEM filters, 10 oil drain plug washers and a bottle of touch up paint from http://www.trussvillemazda.com/parts/index.cfm for something like $63.00 total shipped. If I remember correctly the filters were $4.25 a piece. Try them out...

Don
08-06-2002, 12:16 PM
Originally posted by JcsMP3


WRONG WRONG WRONG !!!!

Sorry but you can't prolong your oil change juse cause you have synthetic. Synthetic may provide better lubrication, even little or no chance of thermal break down... but that's not the point of changing your oil frequently.

Changing your oil every 3000 miles it is to remove the junk that is sitting in the oil. The deposits is what causes the engine wear... not the oil itself. I have never heard of any engine having any oil thermally breaking down... meaning -losing their lubricating abilities...

We can all politely disagree, can't we?

The manufacturer says he can go to 6,000 miles running ordinary oil - In fact, that's what they recommend.

Nearly every synthetic oil manufacturer makes mention of "thermal breakdown" in their advertising, so I guess it must happen, and this is indeed one of the strengths of synthetic oil.

I think most everyone would agree that the synthetics are a better lubricant than ordinary oil, and that they may safely be used for at least twice as long as ordinary oils, or to 12,000 miles, should the owner like. There are many new cars sold now which come with synthetic standard, and some of them recommend 15K as a change interval - I think at least one OEM recommends 25K :eek:

If PR5hokie wants to go to 8 to 10K for change intervals, I'm sure he'll be fairly "safe."

Personally, I do 3,000 mile changes myself (with ordinary oil) but when I DO run synthetic, 5 to 6K changes are what I aim for.

Don

JcsMP3
08-06-2002, 03:45 PM
Originally posted by Don


We can all politely disagree, can't we?


Sorry if I came off a little harsh there but I was just dealing with a peaved customer. So I unintentionally took it out here.

Thermal breakdown is something they mention but is un heard of at the new intervals at which we change the oil. Be it 3,6,12 or even 25... I have been reading up alot and I do mean alot on oil, filters and by pass filters.

An oil filter only stops the particles of 25-40 micron size. What causes engine damage are the particles below this level 5-20 microns. The more frequently you change your oil the more frequently your engine gets fresh uncontaminated oil. Regardless it being synthetic, or regular oil the contaminants that cause wear in your engine are still there. Their are a few products out there sold as by pass oil filters which take out everything down to the 1 micron size. Virtually eliminating engine wear so they say. I am not here to sell their system so enough about that.

The more frequently you change your oil be it dino oil or syn....

Jc

Hawkeye
08-10-2002, 06:13 PM
Originally posted by MP3_PR5


Damn, I just bought two at my dealer and it only cost me about $13! :wtf: Try a different dealer!

my dealer wanted me to pay 13.75 for one filter! They are the greediest bastards on the planet. I've compared their prices on other items to other mazda dealers, and their mark-up has to be around 400-500%! :mad:

ZoomThis
08-12-2002, 09:04 PM
I decided to use a Fram filter. Personally, the engineers decide or designed a filter for me to use is a bunch of crap. Being an engineer, we choose something that is a standard first. If we cannot do that, then we decide to be ORIGINAL. As for oil to use, I high recommend Mobile 1 synthetic 15W30. The oil pressure and response is worth the extra $$.

ZMTHIS

Hawkeye
08-12-2002, 10:33 PM
ZoomThis, do you mean 5W-30? Also, why spend the extra money on the oil if you're gonna go cheap on the filter? I put in Mobil 1 with a Mobil 1 filter. In addition, I used the filter for the V6's (like in the 626) to get more filtering surface area. The general concensus is that Fram filters suck.

just my .02

pingdum
08-13-2002, 12:23 AM
Has anyone here ever heard or tried a Nippon filter. I went to a local auto parts store that specializes in import parts to get a new filter for my P5 and that's what they sold me. It's the same height as the OEM but it's got a bigger diameter body. The diameter of the sealing O ring seems to be the same as the OEM. Most of the writing on it is in Japanese, but there is one part number that looks like it might be a Mazda number: B6YO-14-300. I put it on but was totaly paranoid so I took it off after 100 miles and put a PureOne #14620 (the one for 6cyl's) on. Should I go back and complain or will I look like a fool because he actually sold me a better filter? If that's the case, then I'll just keep it until the next change. Which by the way for me is Amsoil which I plan on changing every 5000 to 6000 miles. While I agree that cleaning the junk out is the main reason to change the oil, it seems to me that if an oil lubricates better then there will be less junk in the oil due to less friction, which is how the particles are created to begin with.

Don
08-13-2002, 11:26 AM
"No mods until it's paid for"

What a unique (and sensible) approach!

Don

JcsMP3
08-13-2002, 11:30 AM
have any one of you ever taken apart an oil filter.... my uncle has as he works for UAP/NAPA he showed me like 7or 8 can't remember...... fram, purolator, all kinds.... they are all made of paper... basically the same stuff that's in any one of your filters... they are just assembled differently, with slightly different intakes and such but that's all I remember..... and btw I pay $8 Cdn with taxes for my OEM filter... that's about what $1 US.,.. ;)

Jc

blynzoo
08-13-2002, 11:34 AM
ping, nippon is the american name (it just means "japan") that they give to a japanese filter here. I dont know the name in japan, probably because I dont speak or read japanese:D, but I remember reading their ad in one of the 5 thousand import mags out there. I dont know much about it, and dont know where to find any info.
That pureOne filter that you're using is fantastic, though, both the 4cyl and 6cyl apps work well with our cars. And I'm so glad to see that so many folks here use AMSoil and Mobil 1. Two very good oils.:)

And I second JC'smp3 comment that frequency of change is what matters most. You can use Napa generic dinosaur oil, if you change it 3k miles, you're gonna have a long-living motor. Some of us are just a little anal and like the added protection of synth.

Also, try to keep your "effective range" as tight as possible with your oils, e.g. dont use 5W30 if 10W30 or 15W30 will do ya. There's an article somewhere on here.......oh hell, I cant find it. It explains how these polymer chains that expand and contract (thus expanding your effective range) can increase pollutants in the motor. Maybe someone else here remembers the thread.

pingdum
08-13-2002, 05:16 PM
I have never taken apart an oil filter, but this guy has plenty.
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/
This is a great site where a mechanical engineer has disected most of the major brands. It's a long read but well worth it.

pingdum
08-13-2002, 05:21 PM
And by the way, the full name is "Nippon Micro Filter Company" so I guess it's like "American Motors" or some thing like that.

blynzoo
08-14-2002, 11:08 AM
Originally posted by pingdum
And by the way, the full name is "Nippon Micro Filter Company" so I guess it's like "American Motors" or some thing like that. lol, yer right, it is probably like "American Motors." Thanks for the info.

scott42
09-10-2002, 10:53 PM
I'm heading to the dealer for an oil change, and they don't have mobil 1 so they said I could bring it. Has anyone noticed that in the owners manual, it says 10W-30 while in the Mazda magazine mailer thing that I'm assuming you all get, the reccommended oil for the protege is 5W-30...
Also, according to the manual, oil changes are reccomended every 7500 mi...but they need to sell cars on a regular basis (thus depend on engine wear), so I'll change mine every 3 or so...:D
Now to the point of the post:rolleyes: , Purolator Pure One filter...thoughts, opinions?
AND...does anyone ever use those fuel system treatment bottles along with oil changes? I've tried them in the past with my old 240, and they seemed to smooth things out a bit...but that could just be mental...sorry for the book, let me know what you guys think about anything in any of the chapters I just wrote
:D

pingdum
09-10-2002, 11:12 PM
Definitly check out this site: http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/ more than you could ever want to know about oil filters.

Jim Frye
09-11-2002, 10:18 AM
I've been using Mobil1 filters since they came out. The published specs on this filter show 10-20 micron fitration at 96% on the tests. The filter also has fiberglass media in addition to the paper media normally found in regular oil filters. There is also more media than in normal filters. Since I run 10,000 miles between oil changes the $9 I pay for one at AutoZone is moot. Jim

Gro Harlem
09-11-2002, 12:40 PM
IMHO changing your oil at 3000 mile intervals is ludicrous!! A total waste of money. I could see if you deliver pizzas and drive the piss out of your car, but if you do commuting with your car, and change it that often you are totally wasting money.

You know how that "3000 miles" crap came to light? Jiffy lube and oil companies. Why do you think they want you to change it that often? B/c they make LOTS more money. I'd say it was a pretty damn successful campaign seeing how a LOT of people believe 3000 is the magic number. Most new cars manuals recommend 7500 or more for the intervals. My dads corolla says 10,000 :eek:

I do mine about every 5000 miles. My driving is about 35 % city and the rest highway. I use Purolator mazda V6 filters (bigger capacity) which have a built in valve. I no longer use synthetic b/c i'm replacing my engine soon and don't care to "protect it" as much anymore, So I use $.99 Kmart oil ;).

Jim Frye
09-11-2002, 12:55 PM
The 3K interval predates JiffyLube (et. al.) by decades. In the '60s, when I started driving, 3,000 miles was the published service interval for cars. Engine and oil technology of the period dictated that frequency. Even then, an engine didn't last as long as they do now. Times, oil, and engines have changed dramatically. Jim

GXL
04-30-2003, 01:25 AM
Could a Mazda MPV 2001 V6 oil filter fit our P5?

ZoomZoomH
04-30-2003, 01:36 AM
I know the filter from the 626 will fit... not sure if the Duratec filter will fit...

Rotus
04-30-2003, 12:00 PM
I saw a different study on oil filters that included one that the other guy didn't take apart. From reading that article, it looked like the NAPA silver was the way to go. They also make a 'gold' filter, but this study showed no significant difference, except for price.

From what I read about the fram filters is that they use a paper piece somewhere in there where as the better filters used a metal piece.

Also, I don't really think that a Mazda engineer designed the OEM filters. They probably had it designed by one of the japanese filter companies according to their specs.

I do know that almost all Honda oil filters are the exact same. I was also able to use Honda OEM filters on my Lotus Elan with an Isuzu motor. The OEM filter for that car was over $20! I think it was so much because it went from japan to GB to here. Think about all that tax!

I think that when it all comes down to it, as long as you are good at changing your oil at a reasonable interval and use a good filter, you should get lots of use out of your car.

BTW, got over 70k on my car now.