Removing Intake Resonator on Mazda3

[goldwing2000]

Why would you do such a thing, you ask?

Well... cuz it not only sounds better, it improves airflow, thereby increasing performance and fuel economy! Well... theoretically, anyway. :)

Tools you'll need:
Jack and 1 jack stand
21mm lug nut wrench or similar tool
#2 Phillips Screwdriver
10mm deep socket or short socket with extension and ratchet (the smaller the better; 1/4" drive tools will work best.
10mm open-end wrench

Procedure:
1. Loosen lug nuts on left front wheel
2. Jack up left front corner of car
3. Remove lug nuts and wheel
4. Remove 3 phillips-head screws from left front underbody splash shield
5. Remove three phillips-head push pins from front of inner fender (two on the wheel opening lip, one inside the wheel well)
6. Using socket and ratchet, remove 6 10mm-head bolts from splash shields. These bolts only: One in wheel well next to the push pin from step 5, three across the front of the car on main splash shield, two on left side where main splash shield attaches to transmission splash shield. Do not remove the push-pins on the main splash shield.
7. Slide main splash shield free from lock-pin where it attaches to the transmission splash shield.
8. Pull front portion of inner fender back away from the front of the car.
9. See that big honkin hunk o' plastic inside there? That's the resonator. There are three bolts holding it in place.
-10mm Bolt #1: This one is easy. It should be staring you right in the face. Take it out.
-10mm Bolt #2: This one's a little more difficult. Lie on your back and look up between the resonator and the frame rail, next to the horn. You should see the bottom of the tab that bolt #2 is going through. Use a small ratchet and take it out.
-10mm Bolt #3: This one will take the longest. The resonator was put in before the headlight, so bolt #3 was designed to be accessed from the front. We don't want to take the headlight out, so we will be using the back door method. Take the 10mm open-end wrench, lie on your back and look up inside the fender/bumper area. You'll see the edge of bolt #3 tucked up about a foot from the bottom of the bumper. The resonator will be pretty loose, so just wiggle it and see where it pivots. Take bolt #3 out with the wrench and don't let the resonator fall on your face. :) You'll have to turn it this way and that but it will eventually come out through the wheel well.

10. Reverse steps 8-1, tighten lug nuts to 85-90 ft-lbs in a star pattern and you're off and running! (yippy)

11. Call K&N and bug them about getting a new filter. :D

[Da 6]

yes that is the back door instructions for resonator....normally people added the frount facia removal for that.....also this made it a lil bit eaiser for whenever you get the cai cause the resonator is already gone so you are just dropping the splash guard 1 more time and putting the filter on the intake instead of dropping the entire frount facia....nice write up...

[AzMz3]

I did this a couple of weeks ago. I even opened the bottom hole in the filter box and added a extension with a 90* and a cone filter. Made alittle bit of differnce. I think a big part of the restriction is the housing the maf sensor is in!

--Herb--

[goldwing2000]

yes that is the back door instructions for resonator....normally people added the frount facia removal for that.....also this made it a lil bit eaiser for whenever you get the cai cause the resonator is already gone so you are just dropping the splash guard 1 more time and putting the filter on the intake instead of dropping the entire frount facia....nice write up...

Thanks.
I'm basically lazy, so I always try to find the fastest and easiest way to do things. :)

[goldwing2000]

I did this a couple of weeks ago. I even opened the bottom hole in the filter box and added a extension with a 90* and a cone filter. Made alittle bit of differnce. I think a big part of the restriction is the housing the maf sensor is in!

--Herb--

Where did you find a 3" 90°? Did you just use PVC?

[Da 6]

did that on my neon ahile back...mandrel bent pipe from pepboys

[Silver Bull3t]

Just wanted to thank goldwing2000/~Kane for the post...
I might try this after break-in....

For those of you who have done this mod..., would you say it has made a significant impact on performance/economy?

....If so, was it worth performing the procedure...sounds relatively simple to remove the resonater per your instructions.....


(uhm)

[goldwing2000]

I haven't had it done long enough to check the economy (I'll know next week) but it does seem a little peppier.
The biggest plus is the sound. The added growl puts it way up in fun factor. (2thumbs)

[Da 6]

Hey just found out yesterday in another forum that the 6 resonator was desighned where the bults on the front that are hard to reach weren't eeded to be taken off...there are washers that are the sama size as the bolts and it pops right off after removal of the rear bolt that was accessable. not shure if the front pain in the ass bolt(s) were the same way for you guys?

[Tonys3]

Nice Post !!! Did it make the car any louder at highway speeds ?

[goldstar]

Why do you think the Helmholtz resonator is part of the intake system in the first place and what effect on performance do you think it's removal will have?

[goldwing2000]

Nice Post !!! Did it make the car any louder at highway speeds ?

Not really. Just from about 3/4 to full throttle.

[goldstar]

Why would you do such a thing, you ask?

Well... cuz it not only sounds better, it improves airflow, thereby increasing performance and fuel economy! Well... theoretically, anyway. :):D
So in other words, Mazda incorporates the resonator into the air intake system in order to make it sound worse, impede air flow and decrease performance and fuel economy? Interesting concept.

02 DX Millenium Red

[tonkabui]

So in other words, Mazda incorporates the resonator into the air intake system in order to make it sound worse, impede air flow and decrease performance and fuel economy? Interesting concept.

02 DX Millenium Red


the stock intake assembly is used to minimize noise. it is not in the best interest of performance or fuel economy. why do you think CAI companies dyno test their intakes only to show that there are gains that can be had? it's because of the flowing nature of air. easy in + easy out = more power. the faster you can get air in for combustion and the faster you can move that air out of the combustion chamber allows you to combust more. so in a sense, yes, mazda incorporates a resonator into the air system to make it supress noise. when your motor doesn't growl at you after you hit the pedal, it sounds "worse" in my opinion.

[goldstar]

the stock intake assembly is used to minimize noise. it is not in the best interest of performance or fuel economy. why do you think CAI companies dyno test their intakes only to show that there are gains that can be had? it's because of the flowing nature of air. easy in + easy out = more power. the faster you can get air in for combustion and the faster you can move that air out of the combustion chamber allows you to combust more. so in a sense, yes, mazda incorporates a resonator into the air system to make it supress noise. when your motor doesn't growl at you after you hit the pedal, it sounds "worse" in my opinion.
Yes, the stock intake system is designed to minimize noise but that is not at all the function of the Helmholtz resonator. The resonator is incorporated to increase and maintain low-speed torque. Remove it and there will be a loss of low-speed torque with no consequent gain in performance. If you examine the positioning of the resonator, you'll note that it is in "parallel" with the intake system and does not constitutute an impediment to the air flow. Also, the sound of an intake system has little to do with its performance.

02 DX Millenium Red

[tonkabui]

please show me a stock intake vs. either short ram or CAI where the CAI or SRI actually LOST torque... from EVERY dyno that has been shown on here since i browsed starting in august of 2002 points to gains across the board. hp difference at lower RPMs are negligible, but torque, on the other hand, is about 3-5 lb/ft more across the board.

and regarding sound vs. performance... i didn't say there was a correlation. i am just saying that it sounds nicer when you hear a growl when you get on it. someone on here has it in their sig... a loud car doesn't mean a fast car, and vice versa.

[Da 6]

Yes, the stock intake system is designed to minimize noise but that is not at all the function of the Helmholtz resonator. The resonator is incorporated to increase and maintain low-speed torque. Remove it and there will be a loss of low-speed torque with no consequent gain in performance. If you examine the positioning of the resonator, you'll note that it is in "parallel" with the intake system and does not constitutute an impediment to the air flow. Also, the sound of an intake system has little to do with its performance.


02 DX Millenium Red ......air box and resonator are only 25%30% efficent till vvt is reached......vvt isn't activated below 3000rpms....if you choose to not do this mod.....then it is your choice....if you like the sound of your car then don't mod it....reason the resonator is there is because hearing your engine isn't everyones cup of tea. so all car companies incorperate the resonator to make the car super quiet....resonator is soooo restrictive tha you can't even tell from the sound if it is a v6 or i4. Once again if you choose to deny testimony and dynos then we can't help you tune your car to where you wish it to be. find someone whit theirs off in your area...hell on my 6 I couldn't find the intake side of the box....60mm outlet into the air box but .22mm entry/rain drain hole. removing the resonator will not cause hydrolocking...

If you are trying to say we think mazda was dumb for the design..thats not whats going on...mazda designs the cars for everyone not a certain target group. thats why the resonator is restrictive and motor mounts are too soft for tuners....dynos show vvt responds to mods like this...exhaust didn't respond for the 6i cause there really wasn't a flaw in it perfomance wide cause it shares everything but 2 headers from v6 model. so looking at our(Mz6i) dynos on exhaust won't tell for shure of 3s gains. you may feel like you lost torque but you really havn't.Well known companies products are dynoed before being thrown randomly out there for the consumers. only thing that may have slipped in testing was cels for the 6. You do gain MPG cause the engine isn't working as hard when you are putting around...you loose it if you floor it every time to hear the engine. I don't regret cai on my last car or sri on this one...If you don't beleve it is restrictive...drive round....stop let it cool drop the resonator and drive the same exact way as before and you will feel it and hear it...a happy engine that can breathe. get a SRI or CAI and hear your happy engine sing

[goldstar]

please show me a stock intake vs. either short ram or CAI where the CAI or SRI actually LOST torque... from EVERY dyno that has been shown on here since i browsed starting in august of 2002 points to gains across the board. hp difference at lower RPMs are negligible, but torque, on the other hand, is about 3-5 lb/ft more across the board.

and regarding sound vs. performance... i didn't say there was a correlation. i am just saying that it sounds nicer when you hear a growl when you get on it. someone on here has it in their sig... a loud car doesn't mean a fast car, and vice versa.
First of all, I was not comparing the OEM system with either an SRI or CAI system. I was comparing the OEM system with and without resonator in terms of the resonator's function. I stand by my original contention.

Second, I will compare OEM with aftermarket. I would naturally expect companies like AEM and Injen to show increases in both HP and torque in their dyno charts because they want to sell their product. In fact, both systems probably do produce more HP at the higher end of the rpm range primarily because they eliminate some of the restriction present in the stock air box. In terms of low speed torque, however, this is a different matter since the torque enhancing function of the resonator and any contribution made by the plenum formed by the air box is absent.

You may have noticed that some Forum members after installing SRI or CAI report just such a loss in low-end torque along with an increase in top end power. I personally had installed an AEM on my car and noticed precisely this effect. When I switched back to a modified OEM system, I found that the increased torque in the lower range gave better all-around performance and flexibility for a daily driver, even with some loss at the upper end.

Da 6,

I have to strongly disagree with your view that the resonator is primarily a device to quiet intake noise and that it is highly restrictive. A simple inspection of the resonators placement in the intake system will show that it has little ability to restrict air flow.

Incidently, although this isn't relevant to the topic at hand, since Da 6 brought up the fact that he uses an SRI, this too can cause problems because it ingests underhood as opposed to ambient temperature air. HP varies as the square root of the change in ABSOLUTE temperature, so as intake air temp goes up power goes down.

Finally, I never argue with a man's (or a woman's) butt dyno. If you do any of these mods and find a performance increase then you should stick with it, no matter what anyone says.

02 DX Millenium Red

[tonkabui]

First of all, I was not comparing the OEM system with either an SRI or CAI system. I was comparing the OEM system with and without resonator in terms of the resonator's function. I stand by my original contention.

Second, I will compare OEM with aftermarket. I would naturally expect companies like AEM and Injen to show increases in both HP and torque in their dyno charts because they want to sell their product. In fact, both systems probably do produce more HP at the higher end of the rpm range primarily because they eliminate some of the restriction present in the stock air box. In terms of low speed torque, however, this is a different matter since the torque enhancing function of the resonator and any contribution made by the plenum formed by the air box is absent.

You may have noticed that some Forum members after installing SRI or CAI report just such a loss in low-end torque along with an increase in top end power. I personally had installed an AEM on my car and noticed precisely this effect. When I switched back to a modified OEM system, I found that the increased torque in the lower range gave better all-around performance and flexibility for a daily driver, even with some loss at the upper end.

02 DX Millenium Red

again, i must say that this is not the case in terms of anyone who has ran their car on the dyno. of the countless dynos that i have seen, not one have i come across where the torque or horsepower numbers at lower rpms are LOWER with an intake of some sort. they are either the same or overlapping each other at lower RPMS, meaning there's virtually no difference in torque or horsepower numbers. perhaps they are feeling the extra pull at higher rpms, hence feel that the lower rpms are more sluggish, OR there's a whole lot of torque that gets lost before 2500 rpms that the dyno doesn't account for.

now about the removal of the intake's resonator system all the way to the airbox, i think it's more important at this point to get a good filter. the stock's paper element is restrictive.

and about sri vs. cai, there have been dynos that show that neither of them make any significant gains over the other. sure, testing method is a little odd, being that the sri runs with the hood open, but in the real world, wind blowing through the engine bay is not an uncommon occurance. unless you're sitting there going 0mph at 6500 rpms, it doesn't matter which way you go in terms of cai or sri. again, this has been proven on the dynos for the fs-de. i know that cai design for other engines, specifically hondas, tend to produce a ton more power than the sri equivalent. the theory of air intake temperature charge seems to hold true for every engine but ours for some reason.

[Da 6]

as for the resonator not being restrictive.....if you feel that removing it is a waste...try in and prove us wrong...what do you have to loose? other than the ability to stop grinning....all we are saying is try it out...won't void warrrenty and can be reversed if you choose. I like working on cars so I can justify jackin up a car and dropping the splash guard just to use 1 bolt for a ground. and as for SRI...the picture was of a CAI and this kinda showed up instead...live and learn...(price was way to good to pass up for even a SRI!!!)in the process of converting it over...short 90 degree bend pipe and coupler is all that is needed for me to leave the engine bay (lol2) till then I felt the gains of loosing the boxes and the wistle of the throttle body. yes if you choose to stick up for something then hell it's a free country...this is a friendly discussion on a car dicussion bord so you have a right to do so.


as for sri...i ran it hard a few times over....poping the hood revealed that the intake and filter were still cool to the touch....when you put a i4 into a v6 engine bay..there is plenty of space and opportunity...too much space. the filter sits behind the headlight and is maybe 7-8 inches to the left of the radiator over the hole where the resonator once sat...air flows in front of facia into the wheel well where the resonator sat and up into the engine bay. not saying ther isn't any heat under there...just not as much as you may think

[goldstar]

now about the removal of the intake's resonator system all the way to the airbox, i think it's more important at this point to get a good filter. the stock's paper element is restrictive.

Actually, the OEM paper filter is more than adequate for the 2.0 liter normally aspirated engine. This is based on the accepted quality rating for a clean filter that at maximum flow the pressure drop will be no greater than 1.5" water. Assuming an 85% volumetric efficiency, the OEM filter will have a more than adequate flow rate up to 7000 rpm.

For a detailed explanation of why this is the case, you might want to check this out: www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2370 (http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2370)

02 DX Millenium Red

[Da 6]

Actually, the OEM paper filter is more than adequate for the 2.0 liter normally aspirated engine. This is based on the accepted quality rating for a clean filter that at maximum flow the pressure drop will be no greater than 1.5" water. Assuming an 85% volumetric efficiency, the OEM filter will have a more than adequate flow rate up to 7000 rpm.

For a detailed explanation of why this is the case, you might want to check this out: www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2370 (http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2370)

02 DX Millenium Red
I'm not shure how restrictive your protege filter as but my stock one before SRI for me (2.3) was an inch thick....the K&N drop in was way thinner and in conjunction with resonator delete shown some gains (MPG) for me personally when I drove line a normal person. no 2 cars will have the same gains for the same mod...some cars of the same model will dyno higher than others stock. only true way to know what you gained is to personaly dyno. Only downfall is not everyone has the time or access to do so.

[Loose]

Thanx Goldwimg2000, read your post on Fri. and took out the resonator on Sat. Took about 30 min. I found that there is no real change in the sound below 3000rpm but above that was a bellowing, thirsty 2.3L. My neighbors came by and were giving me shit about modifying my "new" car but then I took them for a ride and they agreed, taking the resonator off was the right move. Now if we could just get K&N on the ball!!! Thanx again!!

[goldwing2000]

Actually, the OEM paper filter is more than adequate for the 2.0 liter normally aspirated engine. ...

Well, we're not talking about the 2.0L NA engine, now are we? :D

And besides... since when is "adequate" good enough? Better, faster, more!

All of your rules, statistics and figures may very well apply to the Mazda Protege but since this discussion is about the Mazda 3 (and the Mazda 6, to a lesser extent), I'd venture to say that a lot of your experience does not apply.

The 2.0L and 2.3L engines are completely different with different intake systems, different engine layouts and different power bands.

While your opinions are appreciated, please realize that they may or may not be relevant to the discussion.

Doctor3: Glad you agree! I'm very happy with removing my rez. I'll know next week if it helps fuel economy!

[Da 6]

...ok guess I didn't read his profile(uhm).....n/a cars non vvt, vvt-i, vvt-e or the other 20 million honda versions of v-tec with mostly automatics from "my" knoledge and testing tend to move the powerband up a lil bit with cai and exhaust mods...so you were right to some extent...to counteract that a pcm or adjustable cam gear advcanced (with dyno) hepls you utilize(lower) the powerband into perspective...resonator delete adds a lil bit for non vvt cars as well...just not as much as it does for the vvt cars. As for the resonator for me...it felt as if i was putting 87 octane ito a car designed for 93 and up octane tll it was removed cause it was that restrictive (for me) I looked for maybe 3-5 minuts trying to figure out where the intake side of the box was...if it takes you more than 10 seconds to figurue out where the hole is......stay on the car topic people (wink). But as stated before the 2.0, 2.3, and 3.0 vvt(s-vt) engines respond to intake mods like a crack head responds to crack (not a hell of a drug...don't use). There are parts in the engine that restricts air flow til you hit vvt(s-vt) for low gas mileage and emittions when putting around and performancce once you are at 48%-50& throttle at 4500rpms



This is another form of valve tuning, and it works on the principles of Helmholtz Resonance. A static intake manifold can only be optimized for one specific RPM, so it is beneficial to develop a method to vary the intake length and/or volume. The resin intake manifold that Mazda used to create their 2.3l engine has a valve that changes the volume of the intake runner pipes, changing the resonance frequency of the intake inertial charge. The switchover occurs rather discretely at 4500rpm. Each state is tuned to return a wave of pressure to the intake valve at a different RPM. These two intake runners are switched at a certain RPM, and create a supercharger-like effect on the intake. This allows Mazda, combined with the variable intake timing, to get a relatively broad torque band, even if not as broad as some VTEC engines. Harnessing and optimizing engine resonances is a fundamental and essential part of engine design, as it allows efficient transfer of air. The 9000rpm RX-8 actually has a three chamber variable inlet design! Mazda calls their multi-chambered intake a VIS (Variable Intake System), though they are more generally called a VLIM (Variable Length Intake Manifold).

and as for the resonator and restriction to the engine


Breathing is everything to an engine- an engine can only convert as much air and fuel to power as it can get inside to burn.
and also this



The variable tumble control system (VTCS) was created to help emissions at low RPMs. The valve closes part of the intake path, increasing the velocity of the intake charge. The faster intake charge then has the inertia to swirl around the combustion chamber and more thoroughly mix with the fuel for combustion. Intake charge speed is less of an issue on valves that do not open very much, but recall that Mazda's VVT does not vary valve lift. At low RPMs, VTCS is needed to compensate for this. The valve does not completely disengage until 3750rpm. Mazda claims this technology is used to improve emissions, not torque.


this part hilighted in red is where vvt and v-tec are totally difrent(Not the exact same)



and for stock airbox


The variable intake duct (VAD) can be considered a second intake duct, prior to the air filter, that opens at higher RPMs. An otherwise restrictive, damped, and quiet intake is employed in the Mazda6 airbox. Beyond 4500rpm, the second air duct opens on the side of the airbox, allowing a shorter, louder, and larger path of air into the engine. With the VAD, the intake of the Mazda6 is never starved for an air source, yet it can stay quiet at lower RPMs. On the Mazda6, the air from the 2nd air duct is also a cooler air source- all the way to the driver's side of the engine bay.



the SRI filter sits where this vad street term "Flapper" sat. the 6 air box pulled from three places the resonator in the fender...a tube that was in front of box behind where the fog light is (foglights intigrated in headlight assembly) and the side facing the drivers fender (where the flapper is located and closed so air is ran thu the restricted resonator to keep it quiet....) once you reached 4500 it open and you kinda hear the engine...on non vvt cars removing this flapper causes low end torque loss.

to see more....full vvt article and pictures and prove i didn't pull this out of my ass.....
http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=14&Itemid=33

[goldwing2000]

The 3 is the same except for the VAD.

[mazda3zoom]

(uhm) ok guys...so i finally got around to takin off my resinator and i like the sound, didnt really notice any power gains or losses thought. i know i probably only got like 5 hp outta the whole thing so its ok. next question, is hydrolock, or whatever its called, when u get ice and snow into ur intake and ur car wont run? also, when i took off my resonator i could see the filter, is this going to be a problem? will excess dirt and rocks and water get up there and screw sumthin up?? thanks in advance. (uhm)

[Da 6]

when you removed the resonator was the hole on the frame where il left the engine bat int the fender aroung the same height as the top of the wheel well? thats how hight water has to go to get in the air box...and as for debree...as long as you keep the filter on you should be fine...the air box flows from bottom to top so water has to do some magical stuff to get int the engine

(pullup) ...also it takes a nice amount to cause hydrolock..IIRC a cup...and also take into consideration anything under that has to come in cantact with the 190 degree engine parts....some people spray a lil water in the engne...(at operating temps) to clean the combustion chamber instead of using the actual cleaner that is combustable it's self hydro lock is basicly when water fills the cylinder enought that it can't compress it. water doesn't compress like air does and doesn't burn like fuel does. a friendly amount will be burned from heat...not because of flamability. so you can sleep better now

[mazda3zoom]

when you removed the resonator was the hole on the frame where il left the engine bat int the fender aroung the same height as the top of the wheel well? thats how hight water has to go to get in the air box...and as for debree...as long as you keep the filter on you should be fine...the air box flows from bottom to top so water has to do some magical stuff to get int the engine

(pullup) ...also it takes a nice amount to cause hydrolock..IIRC a cup...and also take into consideration anything under that has to come in cantact with the 190 degree engine parts....some people spray a lil water in the engne...(at operating temps) to clean the combustion chamber instead of using the actual cleaner that is combustable it's self hydro lock is basicly when water fills the cylinder enought that it can't compress it. water doesn't compress like air does and doesn't burn like fuel does. a friendly amount will be burned from heat...not because of flamability. so you can sleep better now

thanks da6-helps alot

[goldstar]

Well, we're not talking about the 2.0L NA engine, now are we? :D

And besides... since when is "adequate" good enough? Better, faster, more!

All of your rules, statistics and figures may very well apply to the Mazda Protege but since this discussion is about the Mazda 3 (and the Mazda 6, to a lesser extent), I'd venture to say that a lot of your experience does not apply.

The 2.0L and 2.3L engines are completely different with different intake systems, different engine layouts and different power bands.

While your opinions are appreciated, please realize that they may or may not be relevant to the discussion.
My comments about the adequacy of the OEM air filter were directed to tonkabui as, like myself, he has an '02 Protege. I don't presume to know the characteristics of the 3 air filter (either 2.0 or 2.3 liter) because I don't know the parameters involved and consequently have not done the math. In any case, that was a side issue and has nothing to do with the function of the resonator.

I'm glad my opinions are appreciated and I too appreciate the opportunity to have discussions of this nature with someone as obviously knowledgeable as yourself.

02 DX Millenium Red

[Da 6]

ok also wanted to point out before I take off....don't take the roadway that is flooded wspecially with a cai...most cai systems are designed to be used on the vehile at it's stock height...so lowering the vehicle May..not deffinently but may increase the chances of ingesting water...the neon has no fender liner on the bottom and slow and ice packed around the filter....nothing happend other than salt clogginf up the cai filter...mazda 6 has a full splash shield so that doesn't present a prblem...not shure if you guys also have a full shield too. what I mean is after it comes dow the front of the wheel well it goes parallell and extend to the front bumper....most cars don't have that.

[goldwing2000]

thanks da6-helps alot

Also, the great bloody splash shield we have under the engine should keep anything from getting in.

[goldwing2000]

My comments about the adequacy of the OEM air filter were directed to tonkabui as, like myself, he has an '02 Protege. I don't presume to know the characteristics of the 3 air filter (either 2.0 or 2.3 liter) because I don't know the parameters involved and consequently have not done the math. In any case, that was a side issue and has nothing to do with the function of the resonator.

I'm glad my opinions are appreciated and I too appreciate the opportunity to have discussions of this nature with someone as obviously knowledgeable as yourself.

02 DX Millenium Red

Very good, sir! I did not realize that you were directing at tonkabui and likewise that he had a Pro. (thumb)

[mazda3zoom]

ok.....so i took my resinator off and now it seems like i dont have as much off the line power. ive been takin my car out behind a local high school and seein how it runs, i also needed to work on my take offs, and it just doesnt seem like its as fast off the line. would takin that off cause that or is it just my imagination? (uhm)

[goldwing2000]

ok.....so i took my resinator off and now it seems like i dont have as much off the line power. ive been takin my car out behind a local high school and seein how it runs, i also needed to work on my take offs, and it just doesnt seem like its as fast off the line. would takin that off cause that or is it just my imagination? (uhm)

Beats me, dude. Mine feels the same off the line but has more power higher up. Maybe the extra pull at the top is making the bottom feel weaker?

[mazda3zoom]

Beats me, dude. Mine feels the same off the line but has more power higher up. Maybe the extra pull at the top is making the bottom feel weaker?
hmmm.....very interesting. (uhm)

[Silver Bull3t]

Just removed my resonator per goldwing's instructions....
I am very much enjoying it.....

..Feels and sounds soooo much better, (not crazy loud), but now she has no trouble breathing (just look at the resonator.....it's gotta be restrictive!!).

Thanks Goldwing!!!!

I took a sh1t-load of pics to help the other newbies like myself (thought)


I'll be posting them soon (today)..... (dance)

[Silver Bull3t]

Why would you do such a thing, you ask?

Well... cuz it not only sounds better, it improves airflow, thereby increasing performance and fuel economy! Well... theoretically, anyway. :)

Tools you'll need:
Jack and 1 jack stand
21mm lug nut wrench or similar tool
#2 Phillips Screwdriver
10mm deep socket or short socket with extension and ratchet (the smaller the better; 1/4" drive tools will work best.
10mm open-end wrench

Procedure:
1. Loosen lug nuts on left front wheel
2. Jack up left front corner of car
3. Remove lug nuts and wheel
4. Remove 3 phillips-head screws from left front underbody splash shield
5. Remove three phillips-head push pins from front of inner fender (two on the wheel opening lip, one inside the wheel well)
6. Using socket and ratchet, remove 6 10mm-head bolts from splash shields. These bolts only: One in wheel well next to the push pin from step 5, three across the front of the car on main splash shield, two on left side where main splash shield attaches to transmission splash shield. Do not remove the push-pins on the main splash shield.
7. Slide main splash shield free from lock-pin where it attaches to the transmission splash shield.
8. Pull front portion of inner fender back away from the front of the car.
9. See that big honkin hunk o' plastic inside there? That's the resonator. There are three bolts holding it in place.
-10mm Bolt #1: This one is easy. It should be staring you right in the face. Take it out.
-10mm Bolt #2: This one's a little more difficult. Lie on your back and look up between the resonator and the frame rail, next to the horn. You should see the bottom of the tab that bolt #2 is going through. Use a small ratchet and take it out.
-10mm Bolt #3: This one will take the longest. The resonator was put in before the headlight, so bolt #3 was designed to be accessed from the front. We don't want to take the headlight out, so we will be using the back door method. Take the 10mm open-end wrench, lie on your back and look up inside the fender/bumper area. You'll see the edge of bolt #3 tucked up about a foot from the bottom of the bumper. The resonator will be pretty loose, so just wiggle it and see where it pivots. Take bolt #3 out with the wrench and don't let the resonator fall on your face. :) You'll have to turn it this way and that but it will eventually come out through the wheel well.

10. Reverse steps 8-1, tighten lug nuts to 85-90 ft-lbs in a star pattern and you're off and running! (yippy)

11. Call K&N and bug them about getting a new filter. :D

[Silver Bull3t]

Why would you do such a thing, you ask?

Well... cuz it not only sounds better, it improves airflow, thereby increasing performance and fuel economy! Well... theoretically, anyway. :)

Tools you'll need:
Jack and 1 jack stand
21mm lug nut wrench or similar tool
#2 Phillips Screwdriver
10mm deep socket or short socket with extension and ratchet (the smaller the better; 1/4" drive tools will work best.
10mm open-end wrench

Procedure:
1. Loosen lug nuts on left front wheel
2. Jack up left front corner of car
3. Remove lug nuts and wheel
4. Remove 3 phillips-head screws from left front underbody splash shield
5. Remove three phillips-head push pins from front of inner fender (two on the wheel opening lip, one inside the wheel well)
6. Using socket and ratchet, remove 6 10mm-head bolts from splash shields. These bolts only: One in wheel well next to the push pin from step 5, three across the front of the car on main splash shield, two on left side where main splash shield attaches to transmission splash shield. Do not remove the push-pins on the main splash shield.
7. Slide main splash shield free from lock-pin where it attaches to the transmission splash shield.
8. Pull front portion of inner fender back away from the front of the car.
9. See that big honkin hunk o' plastic inside there? That's the resonator. There are three bolts holding it in place.
-10mm Bolt #1: This one is easy. It should be staring you right in the face. Take it out.
-10mm Bolt #2: This one's a little more difficult. Lie on your back and look up between the resonator and the frame rail, next to the horn. You should see the bottom of the tab that bolt #2 is going through. Use a small ratchet and take it out.
-10mm Bolt #3: This one will take the longest. The resonator was put in before the headlight, so bolt #3 was designed to be accessed from the front. We don't want to take the headlight out, so we will be using the back door method. Take the 10mm open-end wrench, lie on your back and look up inside the fender/bumper area. You'll see the edge of bolt #3 tucked up about a foot from the bottom of the bumper. The resonator will be pretty loose, so just wiggle it and see where it pivots. Take bolt #3 out with the wrench and don't let the resonator fall on your face. :) You'll have to turn it this way and that but it will eventually come out through the wheel well.

10. Reverse steps 8-1, tighten lug nuts to 85-90 ft-lbs in a star pattern and you're off and running! (yippy)

11. Call K&N and bug them about getting a new filter. :D

[Silver Bull3t]

Why would you do such a thing, you ask?

Well... cuz it not only sounds better, it improves airflow, thereby increasing performance and fuel economy! Well... theoretically, anyway. :)

Tools you'll need:
Jack and 1 jack stand
21mm lug nut wrench or similar tool
#2 Phillips Screwdriver
10mm deep socket or short socket with extension and ratchet (the smaller the better; 1/4" drive tools will work best.
10mm open-end wrench

Procedure:
1. Loosen lug nuts on left front wheel
2. Jack up left front corner of car
3. Remove lug nuts and wheel
4. Remove 3 phillips-head screws from left front underbody splash shield
5. Remove three phillips-head push pins from front of inner fender (two on the wheel opening lip, one inside the wheel well)
6. Using socket and ratchet, remove 6 10mm-head bolts from splash shields. These bolts only: One in wheel well next to the push pin from step 5, three across the front of the car on main splash shield, two on left side where main splash shield attaches to transmission splash shield. Do not remove the push-pins on the main splash shield.
7. Slide main splash shield free from lock-pin where it attaches to the transmission splash shield.
8. Pull front portion of inner fender back away from the front of the car.
9. See that big honkin hunk o' plastic inside there? That's the resonator. There are three bolts holding it in place.
-10mm Bolt #1: This one is easy. It should be staring you right in the face. Take it out.
-10mm Bolt #2: This one's a little more difficult. Lie on your back and look up between the resonator and the frame rail, next to the horn. You should see the bottom of the tab that bolt #2 is going through. Use a small ratchet and take it out.
-10mm Bolt #3: This one will take the longest. The resonator was put in before the headlight, so bolt #3 was designed to be accessed from the front. We don't want to take the headlight out, so we will be using the back door method. Take the 10mm open-end wrench, lie on your back and look up inside the fender/bumper area. You'll see the edge of bolt #3 tucked up about a foot from the bottom of the bumper. The resonator will be pretty loose, so just wiggle it and see where it pivots. Take bolt #3 out with the wrench and don't let the resonator fall on your face. :) You'll have to turn it this way and that but it will eventually come out through the wheel well.

10. Reverse steps 8-1, tighten lug nuts to 85-90 ft-lbs in a star pattern and you're off and running! (yippy)

11. Call K&N and bug them about getting a new filter. :D



Last pic is looking up into the filterbox where the resonator was attached... (wrc)

[TX2000]

i just removed mine and with the muffler it sounds like a beast (thumb)

[Badger Biker]

Love the walk-through pics, I might have to do this soon.

What's nice is that it's free and it'll be at least till the end of the summer before K&N will have their Typhoon system setup... (thumb)

[ZippityZoomZoom]

Have any pre and post resonator removal dyno's ever been done?

I am interested in this as there were verified gains on the Acura CL type-S when their resonators were removed. I just don't want to lose even a 1/2 ft/lb of torque on this car.

Sidenote: is that the wimpy horn: http://www.msprotege.com/vbb300/attachment.php?attachmentid=15869&stc=1&thumb=1

[AzMz3]

I have an after dyno and it does not do anything noticeable. But I did mine alittle differently. I removed the panel filter and add a cone filter and a 90* tube under the filter box. Too me sound is all you gain here. The restriction is still there with the airbox and the MAF tube.

---Herb---

[Da 6]

I have an after dyno and it does not do anything noticeable. But I did mine alittle differently. I removed the panel filter and add a cone filter and a 90* tube under the filter box. Too me sound is all you gain here. The restriction is still there with the airbox and the MAF tube.

---Herb---Yeah if you would have had vad then that could have been removed too....and as for turbulance....the maf sensor does a great job at making turbulance...but you can hear the engine...most people with sticks say they can hear where they need to shift vs where they thought they should shift.

[razorblade kiss]

So in other words, Mazda incorporates the resonator into the air intake system in order to make it sound worse, impede air flow and decrease performance and fuel economy? Interesting concept.

02 DX Millenium Red
I agree. A car is designed and tested vigorously, as is, before it leaves off to dealers world wide with Mazdas Approval. The engine is designed to run best with the setup it has by default. Causing the engine to take in more air will make it sound great, but you could be confusing your MAS. It might run into problems years down the road since its slowlyy been running a way it shouldnt be running. I just got my MZ3 so Im sure theres a load you guys know that I dont, but this is just from previous knowledge with previous cars. If you really can prove that this wont damage the engine, now or down the road. Let me know, and I'll think about doing it, cuz I'd love the engine to sound a little more ballsy. You're the pros though. (cheers2)

[Da 6]

only thing is the car freaks out....throws a check engine light but goes away and never see it again (Unless you have a V6 with injen intake..."AKA Mz6s) I got 2 cels...one was modified air box....and other was converting sri to cai.... for the 6 they did a flowbench test and removing the resonator did more of a change then removing the entire pannel filter...going against a few peoples claims to include aem...lol it's mostly a sound mod till you get a cai.

[razorblade kiss]

I didn't have time to scan the entire thread, but does this void warranty? I was thinking about doing it early tomorrow morning. Thanks y0 :)

[Da 6]

doesn't void warrenty.....as long as you aren't cutting wire harnesses and stuff like that....

[GrEeNxEyeZz]

just did this mod myself this morning

for the 6 bolts, i only found 2 or 3 the rest (underneath the car) were phillips?

i have a sedan US model, dont know if that is the case, it was still pretty much the same thing, i didnt quite follow everything sdo i did a little things differently...

first bolt i used ratchet
second bolt i used straight open end wrench (but i used the socket side)
third bolt i tried EVERYTHINg but everything was toooo long kept hitting inside...
what i used and found VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY easy

was those screwdriver like socket wrenches, (excuse me as i am not car/tool savy) and put the 10mm socket on the end, reached up, hooked it on, and TURNED....came off in like 5-10 seconds =) (this was of course after about 30 mins of trying soo many different angles attempts with every other tool)

waiting on CAI to come in....

would this every throw a CEL by removing it?

also with the CAI, is it best to UNHOOK the negative (and/or) positive before hooking everything up (as on startup itll remap the air to fuel ratio, giving a better chance of NO CEL? or am i just finding an urban myth?_)

[Da 6]

negative terminal and no cel from removing the box...

[razorblade kiss]

I'll be starting my removal this morning. I'll let you guys know how it goes. :)

[sam1]

i did this a couple days ago. i dont think i gained anything, but i love the sound. its nice and deep. although it seems to me that the intake was designed pretty well. it even has the opening in the wheel well to get the coldest possible air just like a quiet stock cai=).

[Da 6]

i did this a couple days ago. i dont think i gained anything, but i love the sound. its nice and deep. although it seems to me that the intake was designed pretty well. it even has the opening in the wheel well to get the coldest possible air just like a quiet stock cai=). yes your intake is a stock cai.....but...it is designed in lue of the resonator to quiet the engine down...so the air is not going from fender to filter to tb to engine but fender to resonator to airbox to filter to tb to engine...and causing 1 hell of a turbulance in the process. the vtcs spins the air...the airbox and resonator doesn't spin the air but mor like "Sloshes" the air. Removing the resonator helps the engine breathe...you will notice the gains out of vvt(Under 3000rpms) in your mpg. you will also touch the top end a lil bit but not alot. does anyone know if your 3i and 3s tb is electrionically controlled or liquid cooled?

[goldwing2000]

3s does have electronic TB. I don't think it's liquid cooled/heated though.

[Da 6]

reason I asked would explain the TB ground[4ga] in my sig...gimme a second and ill edit this with the link...

[razorblade kiss]

I removed mine this morning. First off, let me say. What a pain in the ass getting those 3 resonator housing bolts off of there. Jesus Christ. Aside from any troubles there, and a bit of finesing, I got the sucker out. I took her out for a little tester, and the sound is throaty and sucking like crazy for air. SOunds great. Seemed a tad more peppy when accelerating in 1st and 2nd gear. Could just be the sound makes it seem faster though. But at heart, the sound IS what I did this for, and it was well worth it. Sounds like its got some major balls under the hood now.

[Da 6]

reason I asked would explain the TB ground[4ga] in my sig...gimme a second and ill edit this with the link...http://www.***************/mtarchives/modifications/cat_forced_induction_i4.html#000145

rasorblade,
Glad you liked the sound of it...

[Da 6]

reason I asked would explain the TB ground[4ga] in my sig...gimme a second and ill edit this with the link...http://www.***************/mtarchives/modifications/cat_forced_induction_i4.html#000145

razorblade kiss,
Glad you liked the sound of it...

[razorblade kiss]

Double post. :) You must be really glad. hehe thx.

[goldwing2000]

reason I asked would explain the TB ground[4ga] in my sig...gimme a second and ill edit this with the link...

Sounds viable but I seriosly doubt you need a 4 ga wire since the starter only uses about a 6 ga wire to crank the engine! The TB could almost definitely make due with nothing larger than 12 ga.

Did you notice any change?

[Da 6]

yes...it was tested and argued for the longest...you may need an intke to hear the sound of the air sicking after petal being depressed to actuly hear and see it. I used 4 cause thats what everyone else said use...

[Loose]

I removed mine this morning. First off, let me say. What a pain in the ass getting those 3 resonator housing bolts off of there. Jesus Christ. Aside from any troubles there, and a bit of finesing, I got the sucker out. I took her out for a little tester, and the sound is throaty and sucking like crazy for air. SOunds great. Seemed a tad more peppy when accelerating in 1st and 2nd gear. Could just be the sound makes it seem faster though. But at heart, the sound IS what I did this for, and it was well worth it. Sounds like its got some major balls under the hood now.
Cool. I felt the same way when mine came off. Give me air or give me death! (cool)

[smitty]

great instructions
many thanks

[IllBinfrontofya]

Well . . after about an hour of working I got the resonator out of the engine bay and so forth. I was amazed to not see a CEL ever come on. Now on to the power and sound . .
Power . . I think it helps throughout the entire RPM band. I can easily get up there faster from around 1500 to 3500 easily. I don't even have to push down on the gas that much. And up in the 5000's it is VERY nice.
Sound . . Well all I have to say is " DEEPER!" It requires a little bit more throttle pushin, but you get to hear that beautiful deep rumble. (FREE)

Also, Was wondering something I noticed today. . . Anyone here think that with a upgraded fuel pump and a FPR set to like 25%+ more PSI then stock would make this baby a lot faster in the 3000-6500 range? Just wondering because they are something that can be done soon! And would be great start addition for overal turbo setup! :) ANYONE . . . ?

[Da 6]

(hump) Well . . after about an hour of working I got the resonator out of the engine bay and so forth. I was amazed to not see a CEL ever come on. Now on to the power and sound . .
Power . . I think it helps throughout the entire RPM band. I can easily get up there faster from around 1500 to 3500 easily. I don't even have to push down on the gas that much. And up in the 5000's it is VERY nice.
Sound . . Well all I have to say is " DEEPER!" It requires a little bit more throttle pushin, but you get to hear that beautiful deep rumble. (FREE)

Also, Was wondering something I noticed today. . . Anyone here think that with a upgraded fuel pump and a FPR set to like 25%+ more PSI then stock would make this baby a lot faster in the 3000-6500 range? Just wondering because they are something that can be done soon! And would be great start addition for overal turbo setup! :) ANYONE . . . ? upgrading injectors before the pcm and spark might cause you to dump excess fuel. I say wait till you run stand alones or something else that will raise the powerband into the 7000s or cause the need for more fuel(FI!)

[Da 6]

3s does have electronic TB. I don't think it's liquid cooled/heated though.yep it's liquid too...looks liek it's the exact same one too...thats another mod....as long as you aren't in the cold regions!!!

http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=23&Itemid=35

[ImportBabie3]

Okay, This is confusing. From people contradicting peoples oppinions I can't tell if this is a good idea or not. Lol. Sounds good to me cuz teh engine can breath better. Is this a bad idea to do if you dont even have a aftermarket intake system on your car? Would it hurt anything. Sounds like a fun lil project! ;) hook me up.

[ImportBabie3]

Oh and can you guys specify more on the 2.3l cuz thats whats in my 3 so ..
What are the pros and cons if I were to do this..

[goldwing2000]

Pretty sure everything on this thread has been about the 2.3L

At least, that's what all my posts are about.

[ImportBabie3]

Good deal! So should I do this;) im up for it

[razorblade kiss]

Good deal! So should I do this;) im up for it
You'll need a strong man like myself to help you out babie. (freak)

[ImportBabie3]

Haha i got all my Import guys from here willin to help me:)
I live in tyler texas if u wanna come haha

[ImportBabie3]

Yep im doing it this weekend

[razorblade kiss]

Yep im doing it this weekend
Wadaya say I fly you up here to CT, and do it in my garage. I have comfy leather sofas out there.

[Da 6]

lol...resonator is on (Almost) every car...and yes it helps out(And is worth the time and effort) but not as much as a cai would is what we are saying. If you get a cai you have to remove it regardless so all you are doing is making less work down the road if you choose to get one...this a sound over power mod (Trial Size Of What CAI Would Do...) so don't go telling your friends you shaved 3 seconds of your 1/4 from this...I posted a link somewhere on the 2.3...don't have access to the site from here(WORK) so it is mazda6tech.com and go under intake technologies.....and it has wor for word picture for picture. You can use the how-tos as well since the 6i has the same 2.3 for those who stil wonder......

[TX2000]

ok just wandering.. if i remove the hoses from my TB i should see an improovement? ( lives in Puerto Rico so i dont worry about freezing ) (2thumbs)

[Da 6]

ok just wandering.. if i remove the hoses from my TB i should see an improovement? ( lives in Puerto Rico so i dont worry about freezing ) (2thumbs) this is one of those minor things...in conjunction with cai cause the cai heats up from the heat of the engine fan blowing(reason my sri became a cai week after instal) so it will help aid in bringing in cooler air...not shure if it was on the site but if you ever did do the mod and the tb froze from the cold the car will do wierd idleing pull off th the side of the road and let it do the wierd idling to warm the throttle body. after you get to where you are going make it a priority to conver back if you didn't do that on the roadside. eemember the tb is electric so no pedal stoms like the traditional cable controled tb's...

[TX2000]

i wonder if the people saying that they get a "boost" just when they turn on the car is because the TB heating up...... hmmmm i wonder

[Da 6]

i wonder if the people saying that they get a "boost" just when they turn on the car is because the TB heating up...... hmmmm i wonderdepends...auto trannys are like that..once they heat up the shifts get real crapy...only thing I'm waiting on is my inline tranny filter so I can add a tranny cooler to mine. I'm just glad they abandoned the ford trannys cause the millenia kept killing them left and right with heat stress.

[TX2000]

another thing... if i remove the coolant lines.. and replace them with a dedicated radiator too keep the TB alot cooler than the engine should that work??? im actually thinking of doing it .. we have alot of space inside our front bumper that a small radiator (like a oil radiator )should fit ....

dunno if that actually will do any improvement .. but i think ill try it just for fun heheh...

BTW i drive a 5spd

[goldwing2000]

another thing... if i remove the coolant lines.. and replace them with a dedicated radiator too keep the TB alot cooler than the engine should that work??? im actually thinking of doing it .. we have alot of space inside our front bumper that a small radiator (like a oil radiator )should fit ....

dunno if that actually will do any improvement .. but i think ill try it just for fun heheh...

BTW i drive a 5spd

That won't do anything unless you put some sort of pump in the system to circulate the fluid. The TB has no circulating pump, so the liquid will not move through the added radiator.

[TX2000]

i ws also going to put a pump on the system to circulate the liquid but was wonderig if it was worth the efort,,

[goldwing2000]

i ws also going to put a pump on the system to circulate the liquid but was wonderig if it was worth the efort,,

Probably not.

What you might be able to do is put an aux cooler between the supply line and the ETB. That way the coolant temp would be reduced from engine temp but would still be part of the main cooling system.

[Da 6]

Probably not.

What you might be able to do is put an aux cooler between the supply line and the ETB. That way the coolant temp would be reduced from engine temp but would still be part of the main cooling system.bingo!

[TuRbOtEcTicS]

have any of you guys who took off the resonator experience some problems yet? and could you guys post up some sound clips? (thumb)

[goldwing2000]

I had no problems but now I have a CAI so I can't help you with sound clips.

[mazda003s]

Just removed my resonator per goldwing's instructions....
I am very much enjoying it.....

..Feels and sounds soooo much better, (not crazy loud), but now she has no trouble breathing (just look at the resonator.....it's gotta be restrictive!!).

Thanks Goldwing!!!!

I took a sh1t-load of pics to help the other newbies like myself (thought)


I'll be posting them soon (today)..... (dance)

thanks for the walk-thru pictures...taking that bad boy out today!! (thumb)

[Loose]

thanks for the walk-thru pictures...taking that bad boy out today!! (thumb)
You won't regret it! Keep us posted... or if you have questions... and please USE JACK STANDS!

[mazda003s]

You won't regret it! Keep us posted... or if you have questions... and please USE JACK STANDS!

i have a question...i was wondering if you can remove the sidewalls without actually taking the wheel off? do you think it would work if i turned the wheel all the way to the left? or am i better off taking the while wheel off?

yeah i know i sound kinda lazy.. (sleep)

[goldwing2000]

i have a question...i was wondering if you can remove the sidewalls without actually taking the wheel off? do you think it would work if i turned the wheel all the way to the left? or am i better off taking the while wheel off?

yeah i know i sound kinda lazy.. (sleep)

Some people have successfully used that method.

[Loose]

i have a question...i was wondering if you can remove the sidewalls without actually taking the wheel off? do you think it would work if i turned the wheel all the way to the left? or am i better off taking the while wheel off?

yeah i know i sound kinda lazy.. (sleep)

It would make your job just that much more difficult. Much easier it you just remove the tire. Come to think of it, you might not be able to get the resonator out once you disconnect it...

[mazda003s]

It would make your job just that much more difficult. Much easier it you just remove the tire. Come to think of it, you might not be able to get the resonator out once you disconnect it...

oh yeah..haha.. i guess its better to just take the whole tire off..

[Loose]

oh yeah..haha.. i guess its better to just take the whole tire off..
6 hours have gone by, I'm getting worried.

[PeteyBoy3K]

now now... the more time that passes... the more vitriolic and entertaining the anecdote... unless he's hurt, that makes kittens cry.

[Loose]

now now... the more time that passes... the more vitriolic and entertaining the anecdote... unless he's hurt, that makes kittens cry.
(lol)

[mazda003s]

6 hours have gone by, I'm getting worried.


haha i didnt get to do it...i was going to do it after my friend put his intake on the wrx but he was missing the extension and i have to get another jack stand...but dont fret, it will be off soon

[Oricle]

just finished driving my car after i took out the resonator. i like the sound, mainly when driving under over passes. it sounds the same untill you feed it more that half throttle, then it has a nice growl. i had the most problems with skrew #2, my hands were too big to move the wrench (fog light kept getting in the way). as for performance, i cant feel any difference in the seat of my pants :( , but i think that the sound is well worth it.

[mazda003s]

poop now i def. got to get this sucka out..

[TuRbOtEcTicS]

Now i really want to take it out but im just worried that it might hurt the car in the long run. Any had any problems yet?

[Da 6]

There is no sensors attached toe the box....so if you see wires don't pull them....thats all that can bake this mod go really down hill. other than that water has to get as high as the bottom of the dash to get into the airbox...if the water gets as high as the dash...chances are you are gettin wet yourself inside the car! If this happens

1) Roll window(s) down
2) remove seat belt(3)
3) grap purse(s) or wallet(S)
4) crawl out of windw to roof of car
5) wait till you are near high ground
6) swim to it

[Loose]

Now i really want to take it out but im just worried that it might hurt the car in the long run. Any had any problems yet?Took it out in April and NO problems. I'm waiting for my CAI....

[TuRbOtEcTicS]

Took it out in April and NO problems. I'm waiting for my CAI....
did you buy a K&N filter or kept the stock one?

[Loose]

did you buy a K&N filter or kept the stock one?

There is no K&N listed as of now so we're all left w/ the stock one unless you get a CAI. Then totally diffrent filter type/size.

Did you get the Resonator out?

[TuRbOtEcTicS]

There is no K&N listed as of now so we're all left w/ the stock one unless you get a CAI. Then totally diffrent filter type/size.

Did you get the Resonator out?
i might take it out tomarrow....hows the gas mileage?

[Loose]

i might take it out tomarrow....hows the gas mileage?

Same as w/ the resonator in place. Of course I like the "woot-woot" sound that occurs when you give it more than 1/2 throttle so that can use alittle more gas LOL. :)

[Loose]

Check page 5 and 7 of this thread for pics of the resonator..

[mazda003s]

hahah.. after a long time waiting cuz ive been real busy with work, i finally took the dam resonator off..ooo wee it sounds nice between 3000-3500 rpms...the last 2 nuts were a pain b/c i had some crappy tools..all in all i love the wOOt wOOt it makes...

[3junky]

Hello all,

I would like to do this today, however I am a little concerned as I only have the stock jack, no stands.. Is it safe to do this with the stock jack? I am kinda nervous about getting under the car.. (boom08)

[Da 6]

you should be cool....for safety and piece of mind put the rim under the car just in front of the jack...in the event it does fall it won't injure you. also put parking brake on regardles of tranny type...it's a well deserved mod.

[3junky]

you should be cool....for safety and piece of mind put the rim under the car just in front of the jack...in the event it does fall it won't injure you. also put parking brake on regardles of tranny type...it's a well deserved mod.

Thanks, good idea about the rim and definitely gives me more peace of mind.. I am off to get started, I will let you all know how it goes! Luckily I have wireless internet that works from where the car is parked so I can see the pics posted on my laptop which should help.

[3junky]

Finished. Took about 1.5 hours because those last 2 bolts are a bitch! Make sure you have the right tools.. sounds no different when cranking up but I'm about to take a drive so I am looking forward to it. Thanks for the walk-throughs and advice!

Oh yeah I put the rim under but the jack was solid, no problems.

[3junky]

Back from my drive. Sounds great, the only time you hear it is under acceleration between about 3-5K, otherwise it sounds about the same as stock. This is good because I didn't want it to be too loud like when you have an aftermarket exhast (sp?) Also took it out on the highway and it sounds fine when going 80mph in 5th. Overall I feel like there has been a slight loss in low-rpm torque, thats ok because I will be getting the CAI in about a month, which gains about 10 ft/lbs in the 1-3K range. I love the growl it gives when you get upon it.. good stop gap between stock and CAI.. thanks again!

[TuRbOtEcTicS]

good to hear man. Enjoy it!

[Da 6]

yeah now with the 6 it gets louder with a cai and extremely loud with sri but the 3 it's the opposite.

[TuRbOtEcTicS]

just took it. Cant really hear it because my muffler came alot louder and deeper but not ricey. But will will the dealer give me some heat when i take my car for an oil change. I would do it myself but their doing it for free cause its me first one.

[Da 6]

as long as you don't do wot chutch dumps(N Bombs) in the dealership parkinglot you should be cool...I had my intake and optima red top in when they did their suposed ful circle inspection and they cheked it all off to include filter as good condition when the filter is hidden in the fender (hah) (hand)

[Kimo5d3s]

Hey if there is ANY MZ3s owners that have done this procedure in NM holla at me I would love to compare the sound and ride of yours compared to mine as i have yet to remove the resonator. Im in Albuquerque Let me know if you have done this I am really curious about awakening this sleeping Beast!!!! (rockon) LOL

[ZippityZoomZoom]

So has anyone put a tube from the stock, resonatorless airbox to the location where outside air comes in?

[splitvizion]

i just did mine the other day. i thought the second bolt was easier to get to than the third, but was really long so my arm kept cramping. lol. The third bolt was a son of a bitch I tried forever to get that thing off and finally I got so pissed that I grabbed the resonater with both hands twisted a little and yanked. Two yanks and it snapped the plastic tab. I was careful because of the bumper but it worked. Then I grabbed the resonated and drop kicked it towards the sky. ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh i was relieved. I def like the growl but wish that you could here it always. It only growls when under accelerated. Nice though. Thanks for the info. CAI next, as soon as the Simota's come in.
Thanks
Anthony

[DaRkCotTon]

i guess im mechanically retarded b/c i can't seem tot be able to get the last 2 screws out of the resonator...i got frustrated and put everything back together, ill prolly try again tomorrow. anyone got any tips?? yes i know, im stupid and retarded and you can flame me, i wont mind

[Da 6]

where were these last 2 screws located on the resonator?

[DaRkCotTon]

nvm i got it out =]

[Da 6]

you like?

[DaRkCotTon]

yea, it sounds stock when i drive normally, but when i give it a little more gas, it becomes like a deep growl or something, rofl. im glad it doesnt sound like lawn mower o_O

[ZoomVT]

lol... well taking the resonator out is a royal pain in the ass, but a pretty rewarding task cause the sounds is pretty nice...

[Aeynghus]

Took my resonator off this AM. It sounds much better and it idles better too. Now if they will just deliver the CAI I ordered.....

[mplutodh1]

So anyone had problems with their warranty when doing this?

I've sifted through the posts but saw a few discussions of whether this is a true benefit or not. Does it impact performance (question regarding the low torque issues)? Is it just a "sound" improvement?

[goldwing2000]

I ran out warranty over 10,000 miles ago but I never had a problem with it.

Removing the resonator without installing a CAI is definitely just a "sound" mod. If anything, performance got worse.

[Ash77]

Nice mod

[Joeyz3]

Removing the resonator without installing a CAI is definitely just a "sound" mod. If anything, performance got worse.


This is what I was looking for! I guess I'll wait to get a CAI and just rip it out all at once. Very interesting read though!

[TRM3HGT]

I painfully read through this entire post. It amazed me how much bad information and explanations were given on this very simple topic.

I'm not going to jump into the but-dyno debate, but rather would like to offer a beginner must read on engine dynamics: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm

Now, I go in peace continuing my search for a CAI kit which will ultimately do nothing more than make my car louder, and change my mind should I ever contemplate going deep sea fishing with my car (I've hydro-locked a motor before during a Hurricane in my CAI equipped Nissan 240SX).

{EDIT} VTEC document:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question229.htm

[adamkiwi]

I understand that pulling off the resonator will change the the tone and the volume of my intake...

But will I now also be able to hear my turbo spooling? Cause I REALLY want to hear my little turbine...

Or do I need to get the CAI for that?

[Jasonstiller]

Im pretty sure i took the resonator out when i hacked my stock airbox on my speed 3 and didnt notice any exhaust increase. I think this is something for the regular M3 guys right?

[Siscim23]

I'm thinking about doing this this weekend. I've heard one without the resonator, the sound is amazing.

[Mrs. CaSHMeRe]

it does sound good!

[TheBev]

I actually left the resonator in...although i did reloacate it. I cut the muffler and resonator out, upgraded my pipes, and re-weilded it closer to my tip, where the muffler used to be. The effect this gave me was, at low rpms, my car isnt very loud at all, however has deeper sound. At high rps, when i digg into the gas, it lets out a very deep, very menacing sound that definatly turns heads. This basterd sounds really really fast.

[jphilly]

what does CIA stand for?

[lukey]

i took out the airbox on my mps (UK ms3) in a trial run of installing the cai when it arrives, i dont even have a resonator box whatsoever, just the top tiny airbox that just pops off rubber push mounts, in the bumper space in front of the arch its just empty. there also doesnt seem to be mounts in the same place as your US variants.

[jphilly]

nice mod. wife was not impressed. i am. it only cost my ten bucks to do this mod cause while i was doing it my neighbor came over and jacked some of my tools. bummer. one question. does installing the cia do anything to this sound?

[Pondo]

what does CIA stand for?


Central Intelligence Agency (dance)

if you meant CAI

Cold Air Intake

[hankhill11]

can anyone give me an idea of the difference this would make on an automatic? I myself have the manual, but a coworker has auto, would HE notice the sound too? and BTW, it DOES sound GREAT!

[Zoomzoom17]

Can't really read through 7 pages of stuff. I'm going to be taking off my bumper to put in some fogs. Is it really necessary to take off the wheel? I don't feel like going through that. I'm taking the splash guards and the bumper off can I do it then?