97 Protege Code P1195...EGR?

I have a Mazda Protege LX 1997 that until about 6 months ago was fine, then it seems to be having a mid-life crisis of one little thing after another.

In late January, I filled up my car on a very cold light with gas. While driving down a hilly street, I hit a bump and my check engine light came on. I asked a mechanic friend - he said it could be a loose gas cap and to see if it turns off after I tighten the cap. A few days later, it did. The day after it turned off, I hit the same bump on the same street and -pop!- there it is again.

Since then the light flicks on randomly- mostly if its a little colder, or I am on a downhll slant. It will turn off for a week and then come on, stay on for a week then turn off. I had it coded at Autozone... P1195- SCP HBCC Failed to Initialize... the guy had not clue what that meant. I did research and found its a barometric sensor in the computer. Same friend said that it could be the EGR Boost Valve or the vacuum that goes to it.

Help? I want to have a clue of what to ask my mechanics (very trustworthy) so they don't spend hours poking around the engine. I can hardly get into the shop with my schedule, I want to know what I am dealing with. Thanks!!

Hi I just bought an inexpensive code reader and used it on my 96 probe. It also read a P1195 you are correct in the SCP HBCC (standard corporate protocol Hosted Bus Controller Chip) failed intialization. However on a FORD/MAZDA this code is not Barametric sensor or O2 sensor from what I could gather it simply means the code reader used was unable to intialize the HBCC and properly interface with your cars computer, thus the code. If you check a few more sites on auto computer codes you will find codes above 1000 are not standard but are manufacture specific. The problem your having sounds to me like a loose connection to a sensor, and on a proper code reading device it will most likely give a better indication of where to look. Best of Luck.

Allie97 said:

I have a Mazda Protege LX 1997 that until about 6 months ago was fine, then it seems to be having a mid-life crisis of one little thing after another.

In late January, I filled up my car on a very cold light with gas. While driving down a hilly street, I hit a bump and my check engine light came on. I asked a mechanic friend - he said it could be a loose gas cap and to see if it turns off after I tighten the cap. A few days later, it did. The day after it turned off, I hit the same bump on the same street and -pop!- there it is again.

Since then the light flicks on randomly- mostly if its a little colder, or I am on a downhll slant. It will turn off for a week and then come on, stay on for a week then turn off. I had it coded at Autozone... P1195- SCP HBCC Failed to Initialize... the guy had not clue what that meant. I did research and found its a barometric sensor in the computer. Same friend said that it could be the EGR Boost Valve or the vacuum that goes to it.

Help? I want to have a clue of what to ask my mechanics (very trustworthy) so they don't spend hours poking around the engine. I can hardly get into the shop with my schedule, I want to know what I am dealing with. Thanks!!

Click to expand...

Did you ever figure it out? I got P1195 on a 96 1.5?

You know whats really weird?

The engine light turned off in late April and didn't return... until yesterday. Now its back, we'll see if it stays on in winter again. Seems to be cold sensitive.

I never figured it out because it turned off, and I was hoping to get a new car by now (alas the job situation has not worked out yet)....

I don't want to go to a dealer and give them my first born child to find the code. Let me know if you find out what it is.

Yea- probably a loose sensor but again- no $$ for them to tinker around.

Temp not an issue for me

Allie97 said:

You know whats really weird?

The engine light turned off in late April and didn't return... until yesterday. Now its back, we'll see if it stays on in winter again. Seems to be cold sensitive.

I never figured it out because it turned off, and I was hoping to get a new car by now (alas the job situation has not worked out yet)....

I don't want to go to a dealer and give them my first born child to find the code. Let me know if you find out what it is.

Yea- probably a loose sensor but again- no $$ for them to tinker around.

Click to expand...

I live in Miami Temp never below 70 deg in Winter.

Mil on, DTC P1195 ( boost/map sensor circuit malfunction ) found in
memory.

1.Monitor boost / map sensor voltage readings using the NGS tester and
confirm reading are within specifications. also monitor the sensor
after a hot start to confirm that sensor reading change when EGR boost
sensor solenoid swithes OFF to ON to OFF, when the system is
functioning normaly the the test will only occur once, but if there
is no change in reading due to no opening, closing or blockage of
the solenoid ports, EGR valve port,or within the connecting hoses
the PCM will repeat this test three times. But this does not mean
solenoid doesn't stick occasionally.
2.Inspect boost sensor hoses for water.
3.Inspect boost sensor solenoid for leakage, blockage and/or sticking
caused by rust build-up.
4 Inspect EGR valve "hose" port for blockage.
5.Replace boost sensor if sensor was produced before November 96.
Sensor can be identified by stamped (not molded) in 4 digit code on
the top of the sensor.

Example: 6Y26 6 = 96, 3 = March, 26 = data
7 = 97 X = October
Y = November
Z = December




Long story short....it's a known problem, bring it to the dealer.