Greddy BOV w/ NO Stalling

[TX Speed Demon]

Since a lot of people have been asking me how to do this, here's a quick write up.

Tools needed:
7/64th hex wrench/screwdriver thingy (see pic)
pliers - you can use 10mm socket wrench instead, but you'll need to remove the stock airbox to access the stop nut.

Step 1: Loosen the stop nut on top of your greddy by turning it counter clockwise (left)

Step 2: Place your 7/64 hex thingy in the top of your valve adjustment screw

Step 3: Tighten your valve adjustment screw by turning clockwise (right).

Here is where you should test your car at idle. Rev it up a few times and set it off. Tighten and/or loosen the adjustment screw untill it blows off at a setting you like with the amount of stalling you prefer.

Step 4: Retighten you stop nut and go for a test drive.

How much you tighten is up to you.

I tightened it until there were about 5 threads left showing on top of the stop nut when tightened (step 4). I now have NO stalling issues. The car will blow off under idle and the RPMs will drop till around 900-700 then stop dead. No more bouncing, no more stalling, no nothing.

When driving it blows off very quitely under 2500 RPMs, or 2500-3500 RPMs with no acceleration, and doesn't stall.

Under heavy load or high boost it blows off VERY loud, the RPMs drop to around 700-900 and stop. No stalling, no bouncing, nothing.

What happens is the valve spring is now tight enough to reseal itself early enough to prevent an excess amount of air from escaping. When you watch mine under heavy load conditions once the valve blows off the RPMs drop, then it seems to hitch for a split second around 1500 RPMs on its way down before stopping around 700-900 RPMs. My guess is the valve now closes at 1500 RPMs and the time from 1500RPMs -700RPMs is enough for the air pressure to equalize, or for the new air to work it's way through the system.

So now I have no stalling issues or turkey issues, just a clean loud greddy whistle and psssst.

Any questions?

[Mark94]

Would this theory work for an HKS SS BOV?

I've been stalling with my HKS and I've tried loosening the screw and quickly tried tightening the screw but nothing seems to work.

Anybody know how far the screw should be in on an HKS?

Thanks for any help....

Mark

[TX Speed Demon]

Yes this will work the same on the HKS SS or any adjustable BOV. You just need to tighten your HKS some more. For me, I tightened the greddy about 6-8 full rotations from the stock setting to get it where I wanted.

JDM Sam has the HKS SS on his Speed with no stalling issues.

[505zoom]

...So now I have no stalling issues or turkey issues, just a clean loud greddy whistle and psssst.

Any questions?

Good job man, sounds like you got off easy compared to some of us.:)

... You just need to tighten your HKS some more...

I tightened my SSQV from one extreme to the other and stalled at every setting. After adding the stock BPV back to the system, it will not stall at any setting. I think that our cars being basically built at the ports is the reason for all of these inconsistencies from msp to msp.

[TX Speed Demon]

I tightened my SSQV from one extreme to the other and stalled at every setting. After adding the stock BPV back to the system, it will not stall at any setting. I think that our cars being basically built at the ports is the reason for all of these inconsistencies from msp to msp.

Hmmmm.. Don't know what to tell you. I never worked with JDM Sam on putting the HKS on his car. I have seen it since then and when he revs it up at idle it blows off nice and hard and doesn't want to stall. I haven't ridden with him since the install on the hardpipe though, only seen it at local meets. Perhaps using the different outlet fins for the HKS would make a difference? Or perhaps you had a vacume leak using the stock source for your HKS? Either way you've got a good set up for yourself now that works :)

EDIT: I remember Sam sayign the ECU took a while to learn how to work with the HKS, perhaps time is the biggest factor in getting it to run correctly.

With mine, I ran the Greddy for about 2 months of stalling before I gave up on letting the ECU figure out the problem. After a few minutes of tinkering and a few test runs I got this solution. I've been running this way for about 2 weeks now without one stall.

Perviously the car would bounce/want to stall whenever I went to neutral at anything over 2500 RPMs. It would happen at least 2-3 times a day, now it's no problem at all. The only time it bounced was once when I feathered the clutch on a 2-3 shift up to about 6300 RPMs, shifted to neutral to blow it off and left the clutch fully pushed in. Then it bounced, but didn't stall. Every time I disengage the clutch (take my foot off after shifting to neutral) it stops right where it's supposed to no matter what RPM level it was previously at.

[Mark94]

I think JDM Sam has his BOV in a different location along with his MAF.

I'll try putting the screw in as far as possible and then test from there.

What is the exact process for resetting the ECU correctly?

Thanks for the help.

Mark

[TX Speed Demon]

I think JDM Sam has his BOV in a different location along with his MAF.

I'll try putting the screw in as far as possible and then test from there.

What is the exact process for resetting the ECU correctly?

Thanks for the help.

Mark

JDM Sams BOV is in the same location as mine. We got the pipes made and welded by the same people at the same time. His MAF is in the same location as the stock set up, he just replaced the stock airbox with a cone/semicircular filter.

Re setting the ECU is done by simply removing the negative terminal of your battery and stepping on the brake pedal until the lights go out. Then reconnect the battery and you're good to go.

This won't be an immedeate fix, it just erases whatever the ecu has learned in your car previously, and starts the learning process over. Over time your car will theoretically understand what is happening and attempt to self correct it. It should learn itself even without re-setting, it is just supposed to take longer.

On my car I never reset the ecu, but drove it around for 2 months with it stalling, and it never got better. Tightening up the valve spring was the only solution for me (aside from a dual set up like 505zoom)

[ThrillRide]

no Sams is in the sam place and speed demon. before he had the hard pipe it was in th estock location. he has never had it recirc or stall or anything. all i know is it works. i have ridden with him and it is perfect. no tricks just installed correctly and it works. no turkey no stall no nothing just hks.

[TX Speed Demon]

no Sams is in the sam place and speed demon. before he had the hard pipe it was in the stock location. he has never had it recirc or stall or anything. all i know is it works. i have ridden with him and it is perfect. no tricks just installed correctly and it works. no turkey no stall no nothing just hks.

Actually this isn't quite true. Last year, when he had the HKS in the stock piping he had the same stalling issues as anyone running a greddy. He ran it this way for several months before we got the hardpipes put on. He's stalling was not as severe as mine was with the Greddy, due to the nature of the BOV itself, but was there in the beginning.

He learned to drive around it as the ECU learned to fix it. Over time it has consistantly got better, and once we put the hardpipes on our cars his had no stalling problems at all, while mine did. This was the first time I had mine on though, and his had been running for several months. Perhaps the ECU learned how to fix it, perhaps the HKS was not sealed properly on the stock piping and was leaking, perhaps he finally adjusted the valve spring on his too.

What matters now is it works, and sound really bad ass.

[on point]

so your saying we can replace the stock blv with a greddy bov and if tuned right with screwing and tightening the bolt it will work fine? or we have to get hardpipes?

cant you with teh greddy recirculate?

[TX Speed Demon]

so your saying we can replace the stock blv with a greddy bov and if tuned right with screwing and tightening the bolt it will work fine?

Yes, however it will not sound as loud on the stock pipe. It may also be hard to get a really good seal on the stock pipes as they are plastic and expand/contract with heat variances. You will have to construct a way to attach the greddy flange to the stock pipe that has a tight seal, but is also able to expand and contract with the pipe as the temps rise and fall.

Any BOV will not be as efficient as the stock BPV. Since you'll still be venting the air to atmosphere rather than recirculating you'll still run a little rich between shifts, but you'll have a real BOV sound. If you tighten and adjust the valve spring you can make it so the car runs fine, with no stalling, and no noticable change in performance. Will it work "fine", I'd say yes. Will it work "better or more efficient", maybe slightly. I don't have a turkey sound any more, and if that is compressor surge or some other harmful by product of the stock BPV then the Greddy works better, even when venting. You won't be able to feel any differance, just hear it.

However if you plan on raising your boost levels or recirculating your new blow off valve, I would say yes it will perform better than the stock one. I believe it will be able to hold higher boost levels and maintain a better seal than the stock BPV.

Do we have to get hardpipes?

You do not have to get hardpipes, but you will get much better sound and a better seal if you get metal pipes instead of using the stock plastic ones. With metal pipes you can have the flange welded on creating the best possible seal. Plus it's realatively easy to revert to your stock plastic pipes for warrenty work. You won't be able to change back if you mess up your stock pipe.

Can't you with teh greddy recirculate?

Yes, to do this you will need to buy a 19mm outlet adapter ($12) and construct a way to connect the outlet of your valve to the inlet in your air intake. With my set up this is very difficult due to the location of the valve being so close to the stock airbox. I would have to create at least 2 seperate 90 degree bends to get the air back into the stock location on the air intake.

One way around this would be to buy a silicone extender with a 19mm inlet nipple that attaches to your air intake behind the maf. Use some silicone hose to connect the outlet of your BOV to the inlet nipple on the new silicone extender. This would move the maf up ahead of where the air would recirculate into. You would also need to buy a cone filter as the stock box would no longer fit.

Or you could plan out your set up better and have your BOV welded in place in such a way that the outlet of your BOV faces the air inlet on your stock pipe. In my case the BOV would have to be moved to the underside of the pipe and rotated 90 degrees so the outlet faces the correct direction. If you put your BOV on the intercooler - throttle body pipe this might be easier. You'd have to look at your personal set up and figure out the best placement based on your current and future mods.

I've never heard a greddy recirculating on our cars so don't know if the sound would be loud or not.

[on point]

coudl i just go to a muffler shop and have them remake a copy of my stock ic piping..?

second.. i could just keepo the stock bpv and then attach the greddy on the ic piping correct?

thrid.. i could just get an aftermarket bpv liek the turboXs and still raise my boost....

let me know if i am on the right track here...

[Mark94]

Thanks for trying to help my out guys.

I definitely don't think JDM Sam's is in the same location as mine. Can you verify if it is. Here is a picture of my car in the attachment.

Can you also see anything out of the ordinary why I would be stalling AND the fact that I am experiencing the "turkey" or compressor surge - whatever you want to call it.

Thanks

Mark

[TX Speed Demon]

coudl i just go to a muffler shop and have them remake a copy of my stock ic piping..?

Yes. You don't need all the pipes remade, only the one you want to put the valve on.

second.. i could just keepo the stock bpv and then attach the greddy on the ic piping correct?

Yes, on the intercooler-throttle body pipe. This is the dual set up like 505 has. It will work with no stalling, but won't be as loud since you'll only be venting part of the air, the rest will recirc.

thrid.. i could just get an aftermarket bpv liek the turboXs and still raise my boost....

Yes. Do some research on the BPV you plan to buy and make sure it is rated to hold more pressure than you're newly raised boost will be. IE: Some valves are only rated to 10psi and could fail/leak at higher levels.

[jersey_emt]

I've never heard a greddy recirculating on our cars so don't know if the sound would be loud or not.
I'm going to play around on my lunch break with a bunch of things...I have everything I need to run

GReddy alone open vent
GReddy alone recirculating
GReddy open vent, stock BPV recirculating (current setup)
GReddy recirculating, stock BPV venting

I'll report my findings :)

[505zoom]

I'm going to play around on my lunch break with a bunch of things...I have everything I need to run

GReddy alone open vent
GReddy alone recirculating
GReddy open vent, stock BPV recirculating (current setup)
GReddy recirculating, stock BPV venting

I'll report my findings :)

It will stall really bad with the stock valve open. It will also idle like crap.

[TX Speed Demon]

I definitely don't think JDM Sam's is in the same location as mine. Can you verify if it is.
You are correct. Sam and I have our BOVs on the turbo-intercoller pipe. You have yours on the intercooler-throttle body pipe.

Can you also see anything out of the ordinary why I would be stalling AND the fact that I am experiencing the "turkey" or compressor surge?

Nothing looks out of the ordinary on your set up. You may be experiencing the turkey sound because your HKS is too tight. Since you are recirculating you should have you HKS at a very loose setting. If it's too tight it will not open quickly enough to catch the backlash of air. Try loosening it up a bit.

Also the HKS SSQV releases the air in stages, not all at once. So the sound isn't really a pppsssssssttttt. It's more like ppssstt ppsstt ppsstt in a very quick sequence and could possible be misinterpreted.

Since you are recirculating I don't see any reason why you would be stalling. Do the RPMs drop very rapidly and sometimes it stalls and sometimes it bounces and comes back to life? If so check your connections for leaks, research the HKS to make sure you have it recirculating correctly (you may need to buy some sort of adapter). If thoses don't work the replace it with the sotck BPV and see if that works, perhaps you just got a crappy valve.

[TX Speed Demon]

It will stall really bad with the stock valve open. It will also idle like crap.

This is probably very true. With the Greddy recirculating you need to have the Valve spring very loose for it to open soon enough. The stock BPV is allready set very loose since it's supposed to recirc. If you combine a loose greddy recircing with a loose stock venting, you will probably send air through the recirc and vent air through the stock BPV accidentally when you don't intend to. With just the greddy recircing you should be fine since there will be no place for the air to escape the system.

[505zoom]

...Nothing looks out of the ordinary on your set up. You may be experiencing the turkey sound because your HKS is too tight...

When I had only the SSQV recirculating, the turkey was the worst out of any of my setups. This is what it sounded like: http://www.wpi.edu/~jck15243/MOV00495.MPG

It sounds like Mark94 could benefit from the dual valve setup.:)

...Since you are recirculating I don't see any reason why you would be stalling...

It looks to me like his return is too close to the maf. The maf could be getting getting confused by the rush of air that is coming back into the intake.

[jersey_emt]

GReddy alone open vent - works fine when valve is tight enough. But there is a very slight bogging right after shifting...but it's barely noticeable at all. No turkey at all. A very good choice.

GReddy alone recirculating - No stalling or bogging, but it's all turkey. Not recommended.

GReddy open vent, stock BPV recirculating - No stalling. A bit of turkey (one or two 'gobbles') when shifting below 3500 RPM. None whe shifting above. NO noticeable bogging after shifting. The best choice for me.

GReddy recirculating, stock BPV venting - runs like crap! Rough idle, stalls very easily. Not recommended.

[TX Speed Demon]

GReddy alone recirculating - No stalling or bogging, but it's all turkey. Not recommended.

Did you loosen the valve spring when the greddy was recirculating? It should be at it's loosest setting if it's the only thing recirculating.

[jersey_emt]

Did you loosen the valve spring when the greddy was recirculating? It should be at it's loosest setting if it's the only thing recirculating.
It wasn't at the very loosest setting, but it was really loose. Still got turkey.

[Mark94]

If I'm driving the car and take it near or over 3000 RPM's and then put it in neutral, the RPM's just drop rapidly and the car just stalls out (battery and check engine light come on).

If I'm under slight load, for instance, when going up my driveway I'll put the clutch in, depress the gas pedal and release the clutch slightly, and then I'll put the clutch back in because I'm approaching the garage doors. Doing this makes the car want to stall. The RPM's dip down and sometimes it will stall and other times it will jump back up to about 750 RPM's. I guess it all depends how much load I put on it while going up the driveway.

ES already sent me a redesigned pipe with the recirc fitting farther away. The first pipe had the fitting about 4 inches away from the MAF. The new pipe has it placed about 5 - 5.5 inches away. Over the weekend myself and customMSP moved my MAF about 8 inches away from the fitting and it displayed the same symptoms.

I've adjusted the screw on the valve to where it nearly fell out so I don't think that is the problem.

Do you think I should cap off the recirc fitting and try it open vent? If I do this, how should I adjust the screw - loose or tight?

Thanks guys, I really appreciate the help because I'm at a loss myself and I just want to get the car running in a safe manner.

Mark

[TX Speed Demon]

It sounds like Mark94 could benefit from the dual valve setup.:)

It looks to me like his return is too close to the maf. The maf could be getting getting confused by the rush of air that is coming back into the intake.

Return being close to the MAF sounds like it could be the culprit. Good thinking.

I wonder if running from the throttle body pipe vs turbo-intercoolerpipe makes a differance since the air is both pressurized and colder? Perhaps blowing this cold air that close to the MAF messes up the sensor more than if the air originated from the other pipe. Maybe not since form the turbo-intercooler pipe would cause the air to be warmer than the original air pulled past the MAF. I don't know.

Mark, maybe you should just try extending the location of your MAF further up the pipe. Buy some cheap pipe extensions of the same size and move your MAF and cone filter anouther 6 or so inches farther away from your inlet.

Or just tighten up your valve and vent to atsmosphere.

[TX Speed Demon]

If I'm driving the car and take it near or over 3000 RPM's and then put it in neutral, the RPM's just drop rapidly and the car just stalls out (battery and check engine light come on).

If I'm under slight load, for instance, when going up my driveway I'll put the clutch in, depress the gas pedal and release the clutch slightly, and then I'll put the clutch back in because I'm approaching the garage doors. Doing this makes the car want to stall. The RPM's dip down and sometimes it will stall and other times it will jump back up to about 750 RPM's. I guess it all depends how much load I put on it while going up the driveway.

ES already sent me a redesigned pipe with the recirc fitting farther away. The first pipe had the fitting about 4 inches away from the MAF. The new pipe has it placed about 5 - 5.5 inches away. Over the weekend myself and customMSP moved my MAF about 8 inches away from the fitting and it displayed the same symptoms.

I've adjusted the screw on the valve to where it nearly fell out so I don't think that is the problem.

Do you think I should cap off the recirc fitting and try it open vent? If I do this, how should I adjust the screw - loose or tight?

Thanks guys, I really appreciate the help because I'm at a loss myself and I just want to get the car running in a safe manner.

Mark

This sounds exactly like you are venting to atsmosphere, not recirculating. These are exactly the symptoms I had before tighten up my valve spring on the Greddy.

Try venting the BOV atmosphere, capping your recirc fitting on your air intake and see if it stalls. You will need to TIGHTEN your valve adjustment, probably ALOT and see if it gets rid of the stalling. I had to tighten my valve spring about twice as much as the stock setting (screwed the spring in till only 1/2 as much showed over the stop nut) to get it not to stall.

If this works you can always reapply the recirc fitting and slowly loosen the valve spring till you get it where you like it best. If after reapplying the recirc fitting the stalling comes back that means something is wrong with your fitting connections.

I'll talk to JDM Sam tomorrow night at the meet and try to get greater detail on how he got his to vent and not stall.

[Mark94]

Thanks TX!

I'll try removing the recirc hose, capping off the recirc fitting, and tightening the screw.

I really don't care if I run recirculated or open vent - I just want to feel safe driving the car.

Thanks guys. I may not be able to do this tonight but hopefully by tomorrow night the latest. I'll definitely let you know.

ONE MORE QUESTION THOUGH: 505ZOOM, I know you have the HKS also. Does your valve release a lot of air. I removed the recirc hose this weekend with CustomMSP and we could feel the air being released when we reved the car to about 3000 in neutral but it didn't feel very strong. We then went over to his car which has a mitsubishi valve on it and he reved his engine and it nearly knocked me over. Is your valve as weak as mine. I'm just trying to figure out if my valve is bad or not.

Thanks!

Mark

[MetalSpeed]

Thanks TX!

I'll try removing the recirc hose, capping off the recirc fitting, and tightening the screw.

I really don't care if I run recirculated or open vent - I just want to feel safe driving the car.

Thanks guys. I may not be able to do this tonight but hopefully by tomorrow night the latest. I'll definitely let you know.

ONE MORE QUESTION THOUGH: 505ZOOM, I know you have the HKS also. Does your valve release a lot of air. I removed the recirc hose this weekend with CustomMSP and we could feel the air being released when we reved the car to about 3000 in neutral but it didn't feel very strong. We then went over to his car which has a mitsubishi valve on it and he reved his engine and it nearly knocked me over. Is your valve as weak as mine. I'm just trying to figure out if my valve is bad or not.

Thanks!

Mark
Is the Mitsu running more boost?

[TX Speed Demon]

Is the Mitsu running more boost?
Shouldn't really matter. When setting off at idle you won't get more than 1-2 pounds of boost whether your car is set for 6psi or 10psi. That's why when you set off your BOV while driving it's much louder.

[505zoom]

...505ZOOM, I know you have the HKS also. Does your valve release a lot of air. I removed the recirc hose this weekend with CustomMSP and we could feel the air being released when we reved the car to about 3000 in neutral but it didn't feel very strong. We then went over to his car which has a mitsubishi valve on it and he reved his engine and it nearly knocked me over. Is your valve as weak as mine. I'm just trying to figure out if my valve is bad or not.

Thanks!

Mark

I've never tried "feeling" how much air comes out of the valve, so I can't really answer that. Mine is set up for dual recirc now, so I can't just run out and see for you. Even if I could, I'm not sure if my description would be any help. Sorry man.

[Mark94]

His car is running about 8 PSI and mine is stock boost but I don't think that matters.

Thanks anyway 505.

I'll let you know how I make out with unhooking the recirc hose and adjusting the screw farther in. I already know the answer but I'll try anyway.

Mark

[505zoom]

...I'll let you know how I make out with unhooking the recirc hose and adjusting the screw farther in. I already know the answer but I'll try anyway.

Mark

If that doesn't work, try running the SSQV open-vent, and add your stock BPV back into the system. It works great.

[on point]

why arnt people just going to muffler shops and getting the ic piping made and jsut slap on a bov to that and keep their stock bpv? it seems the easiet and cheapest way to do so.. without all the other mess:)

second the hks recircualting bov is the easiet and best way to do it?

the greddy comes with the option of recirculating or not....

yah i wanted to bump my boost up to around 8 or 9lbs with an hallman mbc and leave it as that..then upgrade the ic piping, maybe a cai and upgrade the exhaust system...

[Mark94]

Thanks for the suggestions guys but I tried the HKS Open vent and adjusting the screw far in but it still wanted to stall.

My next option is to run a line from the Brake booster to the BOV and then run the intake manifold line to the wastegate.

The reason why I'm not going to a muffler shop right now for a new pipe is because I paid enough money for a complete kit that should work properly. I'm going to try everything possible before I go that route and spend more money.

Mark

[t3ase]

Thread moved to MSP Forced Induction.

[Locomoko]

I think this got mentioned somewhere, but I'm very curious about it:
Can the maf be re-located to the pipe a few inches before the tb?
Would this totally prevent the stalling issues with running a bov venting to atmosphere since the air is being metered after the bov dumps?

As an alternative, could a TurboSmart Dual Port bov be a viable solution?

http://www.rotorsportsracing.com/images/turbosmartfgbov003dp.jpgTurboSmart Dual Port
Vents to the intake & vents to the atmosphere with its dual port action. This blow off valve is ideal if you want the loud swoosh without your car stalling out. We recommend adding the bolt on flange kit for the DSM, so you do not have to weld. Vents into intake & atmosphere dual port.


Thanks in advance!
(mspblack)

[tiwing]

I run the turbosmart dual port. I get compressor surge at light boost levels (when the spring is too tight to allow the piston to move and recirculate, and the pressure difference between the cold pipe and the manifold isn't enough to bring back the piston in the valve). I get a good solid "psssht" on higher boost. I'm only stock boost , and since no gauge I'd have to guess the valve opens at about 1.5 - 2 lbs boost. No stalling. I love it, and don't plan to make any changes.

[celdridge]

Are you saying its possible to run a Greddy Type S on the stock plastic piping?

[TX Speed Demon]

Are you saying its possible to run a Greddy Type S on the stock plastic piping?

I guess it's possible if you figured out a way to attach the greddy flange to the stock turbo-intercooler pipe. It's not how I run mine though. i've got a single hardpipe with the flange welded in to that.

[celdridge]

Good job man, sounds like you got off easy compared to some of us.:)



I tightened my SSQV from one extreme to the other and stalled at every setting. After adding the stock BPV back to the system, it will not stall at any setting. I think that our cars being basically built at the ports is the reason for all of these inconsistencies from msp to msp.


Where is the stock BPV? You got a pic? Does hardpipes eliminate it? or attach to it?

Thanks,
Chad

[celdridge]

I guess it's possible if you figured out a way to attach the greddy flange to the stock turbo-intercooler pipe. It's not how I run mine though. i've got a single hardpipe with the flange welded in to that.


I am trying to have the same setup as you ... since yours seems to work without stalling. So am i correct that you just have a single hardpipe going from I/C to turbo?

Chad

[celdridge]

I guess it's possible if you figured out a way to attach the greddy flange to the stock turbo-intercooler pipe. It's not how I run mine though. i've got a single hardpipe with the flange welded in to that.


Sorry for the overload of questions ... but what is the 19mm connector you are talking about on your BOV ... isnt that the standard flage for the greddy?

Chad

[NASH M J]

Hey man that sounds awsome. I going to buy the greddy type s BOV and set it up just like you. I going to have someone do the welding for me. Just so I do not get ripped off how much do you think that should cost to have one installed? Also the only thing you had to get was the BOV right?please get back to me thanks

[NASH M J]

Sorry for the overload of questions ... but what is the 19mm connector you are talking about on your BOV ... isnt that the standard flage for the greddy?

Chad

Did you ever find out what the 19mm connector is ?

[celdridge]

Did you ever find out what the 19mm connector is ?

I have talked to a few people and they say that the 19mm connector is the flange size for the Type-s ... i guess its a standard part for the BOV.

[TX Speed Demon]

I have talked to a few people and they say that the 19mm connector is the flange size for the Type-s ... i guess its a standard part for the BOV.

Nope nope nope nope, sorry guys. Next time hit me up with a PM or email like Chad did to get your questions answered. I don't check this thread that often any more.

celdridge: I think I answered all your questions in email except the outlet adapter. The 19mm outlet adapter is a piece that DOES NOT COME WITH YOUR GREDDY. I bought mine from racingworks.com It is a simple object that screws into the air outlet (where the air comes out) of your greddy. These sell these in several different sizes. 19mm is the same size as the inlet on your STOCK pipe (look a few inches past the stock airbox to where the current BPV recirculates the air back into the system). If you get a hardpipe kit that is the same as stock, it should have the same inlet size. If you get an aftermarket FMIC you will need to double check the size of the inlet and buy a corresponding outlet adapter for your greddy. These outlet adapeters cost about $10-15. The reason you want this the same size as you inlet on your intake pipe is so you can simply connect the two pieces with some silicon hose. Otherwise you'll have to come up with a different method of connecting the outlet on your greddy to the inlet on your intake pipe, which are diffeent sizes (I think the standard outlet on the greddy is like 25mm or something)
AGAIN, THIS IS ONLY NEEDED IF YOU WANT TO RECIRCULATE.

- watch the video in the first link of my sig.
- now compare that to the pictures in the first post of this thread
Notice the extra inch or so of metal sticking out the right side of the greddy in the video? That's the outlet adapter. It reduces the diameter of the pipe to match the diameter of the inlet In the video you can see a small white cap just above the purple top of the greddy. This is the hole on the intake pipe. I have it capped off for now because I am not recirculating.


NASH M J:
You will need to buy more than just the greddy. You will need:
Greddy BOV - $185
Geddy BOV Flange - $35
Pipe - $50
Someone to weld the flange to the pipe - $85
Silicon couplers to attach pipe to tubo and intercooler - $50

If you want to recirculate you will also need:
19mm adapter (or size that matches inlet of your personal setup) - $10-15
Silicon hose to connect the outlet to inlet - this price will vary depending on your setup. If you angle the greddy right you will need only one piece of hose cause everything will line up. If you angle it wrong like I did you will need hose and some 90 degree bends to get it back to the intake inlet. You'll need to do some experimenting and measuring based on your own set up if it is not stock.

ALSO:
gettign the stock tubo-intercooler pipe off the intercooler is a real bitch. Be sure to heat it up with a hair dryer before trying to pull it off so you don't break anythign.

[celdridge]

Nope nope nope nope, sorry guys. Next time hit me up with a PM or email like Chad did to get your questions answered. I don't check this thread that often any more.

celdridge: I think I answered all your questions in email except the outlet adapter. The 19mm outlet adapter is a piece that DOES NOT COME WITH YOUR GREDDY. I bought mine from racingworks.com It is a simple object that screws into the air outlet (where the air comes out) of your greddy. These sell these in several different sizes. 19mm is the same size as the inlet on your STOCK pipe (look a few inches past the stock airbox to where the current BPV recirculates the air back into the system). If you get a hardpipe kit that is the same as stock, it should have the same inlet size. If you get an aftermarket FMIC you will need to double check the size of the inlet and buy a corresponding outlet adapter for your greddy. These outlet adapeters cost about $10-15. The reason you want this the same size as you inlet on your intake pipe is so you can simply connect the two pieces with some silicon hose. Otherwise you'll have to come up with a different method of connecting the outlet on your greddy to the inlet on your intake pipe, which are diffeent sizes (I think the standard outlet on the greddy is like 25mm or something)
AGAIN, THIS IS ONLY NEEDED IF YOU WANT TO RECIRCULATE.

- watch the video in the first link of my sig.
- now compare that to the pictures in the first post of this thread
Notice the extra inch or so of metal sticking out the right side of the greddy in the video? That's the outlet adapter. It reduces the diameter of the pipe to match the diameter of the inlet In the video you can see a small white cap just above the purple top of the greddy. This is the hole on the intake pipe. I have it capped off for now because I am not recirculating.


NASH M J:
You will need to buy more than just the greddy. You will need:
Greddy BOV - $185
Geddy BOV Flange - $35
Pipe - $50
Someone to weld the flange to the pipe - $85
Silicon couplers to attach pipe to tubo and intercooler - $50

If you want to recirculate you will also need:
19mm adapter (or size that matches inlet of your personal setup) - $10-15
Silicon hose to connect the outlet to inlet - this price will vary depending on your setup. If you angle the greddy right you will need only one piece of hose cause everything will line up. If you angle it wrong like I did you will need hose and some 90 degree bends to get it back to the intake inlet. You'll need to do some experimenting and measuring based on your own set up if it is not stock.

ALSO:
gettign the stock tubo-intercooler pipe off the intercooler is a real bitch. Be sure to heat it up with a hair dryer before trying to pull it off so you don't break anythign.

If you are going to recirc ... where do you run the hose from the 19mm adapter to?

[BMC]

If you are going to recirc ... where do you run the hose from the 19mm adapter to?
I run my GReddy back to the injen intake, where the stock BPV hooks up to.

[TX Speed Demon]

If you are going to recirc ... where do you run the hose from the 19mm adapter to?


BMC is right. You run it back to the inlet hole on the intake pipe. If you have a single hardpipe like me, you run it to where the stock BPV used to go (it a hole a few inches past the airbox [towards turbo] on the intake pipe). If you are running an injen intake you run it back to the whole on that pipe. If you are runnign a custom hardpipe set up you run it back to the whole allready there, or you have a welder weld a small flange onto the intake pipe so you can connect the two pieces with some hose.

[NASH M J]

Mn thanks for getting back to me in detail.

I got the BOV and flange for a steel pipe. I bought the 19mm connector and will have somebody put it on. I bought the ION FMIC so that should replace the stock piping will steel piping. So all I will have to do after all that is hook it all up. Thank you for all the help.

[Msp-titanium]

sorry for the tread jack but i'm a french canadian
and i not full understand english i just want to
know what your saying by (turkey) someone
can explain me please (gossip) end of tread jack

[Dr.Sound]

the sound that the bypass valve makes is something like a sound that a turkey makes.
it's a fluttering noise.

[JDM Sam]

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49929&highlight=hks+ssqv+vid

HKS setup same as Tx Speed Demon's

[SergMSP]

Since a lot of people have been asking me how to do this, here's a quick write up.
Any questions?

Yes, I have a greddy bov adjusted enough that i have stalling issues maybe once in a while, but what does it look like when u have the greddy venting and another valve recirculating? Any pics?? ANyone?

[YellowSpeed1229]

will this work with the stock set up?? or only with the hardpipes??

[CasopoliS]

Anyone done this with the HiBoost kit? I want to vent my Greddy Type-S when I install it with the HiBoost kit (in the mail). I see there was only a hardpipe kit on the car in the instructions. I am guessing things might be different with the HiBoost kit. Pics if you have this setup please. Thanks all!

[CasopoliS]

What is the angled nipple on the Greddy Type-S for?

[JDM Sam]

Jason post an update on the hiboost with greddy setup.

[CasopoliS]

Jason post an update on the hiboost with greddy setup.

And who is this.

BTW - anyone have pics of HiBoost with Greddy and BPV.....Greddy venting, BPV recircing to intake? Thanks.

[celdridge]

What is the angled nipple on the Greddy Type-S for?


Vacuum Line

[TX Speed Demon]

Jason post an update on the hiboost with greddy setup.

Once I can get the RPMs to completly stop dipping I will. Right now they drop low and occasionally the warning lights flash on. I've tried running the stock vacume source and the break booster line, both with the same results. It seemed to get a little worse when I put the Perrin SRI on. Perhaps it is because I can now get 3psi when revving at under idle(5500 rpms), and peak at 7+psi (1.5 over my initial stock setting) when driving under load.

This weekend, if I can find the time, I'm going to take off the greddy and reattach it with a new gasket, maybe reusing the old one is causing a slight leak (although I doubt it).

I'll also re-read the greddy instructions and see if I can use the secondary vacume source as well. If I remember correctly having a strong vacume source (brake booster line) on the top nipple will help it open quickly, and having a weaker vacume source on the bottom nipple (stock wastegate line) will help it close quicker. I'll have to double check the instructions before trying this, but it may be a solution.

If that doesn't work I'll give it another week for the ECU to relearn my driving style and see if it improves. If at that time the rpm dipping issues are still there I'll switch and start recirculating the greddy. I love the sound, but not at the expense of a possible accident.

Until I can get it running perfectly I don't want to steer any other forum members in the wrong direction.

I will however, include a pic of my current set up:

[MSP2NV]

i just got my DSM hardpipes yesterday and they are installed. I put my greddy Type S on, i'm venting to the Atmosphere, and it dips down pretty bad, almost identical to what you are saying. Sometimes the lights come on. Anyway to fix this. I've tried adjusting the bov, tight to loose and that still doesn't help at all. Any Suggestions. I don't want to recirculate if i don't have too.

[computerGeek]

the best cure to this BOV stall is the Greddy RS. i have mine half way up or more, about 7 threads high and it is perfect!!!!! and goes WHHHOOOOOOOOSHSHSHSHSHHSHSHS

[jsahyoun]

How is the greedy RS any different. I too dip down very badly with my greddy type-s, even when it is tightened as can be. I also get some major turkey, but I have grown to like it. The stalling/RPM diping is what I dont like. How does the RS cure this? Is it worthwhile to get the RS over the type-S?

[jsahyoun]

Happens every time.
Please see avatar!

[computerGeek]

i think it is a stronger spring. it closes faster. to be honest i have no idea. i will take a pic tonight and show you where i have mine set at!

it was definetely worth the extra 20 bux though
I will also try a sound clip too.

you will not be the thread ender!!!!

[jsahyoun]

hahaha! I usually am for some reason.
I just want to ask did you have the type-s before, and this is a dramatic improvement?
Cool a pic would be awesome. And how is the dipping if you get any at all?

[computerGeek]

I was All stock before.

i got dipping when i was almost all the way out but absolutely none now. it falls to about 1k and smooths down to 750 which is perfect!

im heading home in 15 minutes should take about an hour top get there and then i will take pics and sound. check back after 7!!!!!

[jsahyoun]

Sounds like a good purchase! I may have to pick one up.
Anyone here interested in a Greddy Type-S???

Thanks a lot!

[computerGeek]

As promised here is the link to the pics and videos!!!! enjoy and let me know what you think!

[LAZERBLU2003.5]

I installed hardpipes and the greddy rs and running the dual set up but now it seems that the turkey I had before was louder then the BOV is now , is that right? and still getting the turkey, is there a certian way to face the BOV front or back?

[spacemonkey]

REcirculate and play with it. DO NOt shift into nuetral or clutch in at high RPMs...after a week it got alot better.

Why not use the duale set-up? Thats your best option.

And im guess it depends on the routing and where your BOV is located.

If you hear the turkey loosen it up so that some air is leaking and the car starts to shutter. Then tighten it up a bit. You want the spring to be as loose as possible without leaking.

[JDM Sam]

he is running the dual setup and still has the turkey. gobble gobble.

[LAZERBLU2003.5]

yeah but just at high rpms the turkey comes 1, 2, 3 , and I have the discharge port facing the rear of the car and I have the turbohoses hardpipes

[LAZERBLU2003.5]

and the turkey happens as soon as I push in the clutch to shift.

[JDM Sam]

got pics? try using another vacuum source.

[LAZERBLU2003.5]

I'm tapped in to the line that goes to the BPV but I also have my boost guage tapped into that line too is that too much for one line?

[JDM Sam]

yea just a little. You live close to dallas? where is cleveland tx?

[LAZERBLU2003.5]

its right outside houston about 4 hrs away from you

[JDM Sam]

maybe one of the local guys can help you. if you make it to the upcoming tx meet, me or tx speed demon can help.

[spacemonkey]

got pics? try using another vacuum source.

werd, Also note the position of the BOV...pics would be nice.

[LAZERBLU2003.5]

sorry guys no camera any more new yrs eve accident...... but the BOV is on the IC to TB pipe and the port is pointed at angle to the back of the engine and up toward the hood if you can visualize it i know a pic would help but all I can do now is describe it the best I can

[JDM Sam]

yup i have mine closest to the turbo on the hot side pipe. play my video clip on my sig. gotta love that hks.

[spacemonkey]

How close is it to the Throttle body? What hardpipe kit are you running?

[LAZERBLU2003.5]

turbohoses hardpipe kit, and I'd say it's about 6 inches away from the TB

[spacemonkey]

hmmm okay sot he location is good. You are running a dual setup?

only other thing I can think of is adjusting/tuning the Greddy BOV and make sure the vacumn line is good.

Also you may want to try the second nibble...I dont know what its for but I think its for another vacumn sourse to help open the valve...not sure...I would look it up.

[LAZERBLU2003.5]

yeah I'm running a dual setup, there is no second nipple on the greddy rs and I only get the turkey when at full boost and I go to shift and Turkey...pshhhhhhhhh, I bought some new vacc lines today , and Is it cool to use the brake booster line for that?? does it affect braking at all???

[505zoom]

yeah I'm running a dual setup, there is no second nipple on the greddy rs and I only get the turkey when at full boost and I go to shift and Turkey...pshhhhhhhhh, I bought some new vacc lines today , and Is it cool to use the brake booster line for that?? does it affect braking at all???

I have never noticed any effects of putting the BOV vac lines on the BB line. I have my BOV and my BPV tapped into that line, and it works great.

Here is a crude diagram of how mine is set up:

http://www.msprotege.com/members/505zoom/Vacuum%20diagram.jpg

[LAZERBLU2003.5]

yeah I'll just have to try that then, which direction you have your bov pointed?

[505zoom]

yeah I'll just have to try that then, which direction you have your bov pointed?

The outlet points towards the front of the car. Like so:

http://www.msprotege.com/members/505zoom/Nov30pics2.jpg

[LAZERBLU2003.5]

would it affect the sound if I had it pointed the other way?

[LAZERBLU2003.5]

sweet set up by the way it looks really good!

[505zoom]

would it affect the sound if I had it pointed the other way?

Next time I take the car out of the garage I'll flip my BOV around and see if it changes the sound any for ya.

sweet set up by the way it looks really good!

Thanks bud, just wait about 2 weeks and you will see the illness.:) I'm gonna be really cleaning up my bay here soon.

[LAZERBLU2003.5]

thats cool I' ll play around with it a little...... ( the BOV i mean), I just want to get the nice clean PSHHHHHH without the turkey...

[LAZERBLU2003.5]

I looked at the Bov today and the little nipple that the vac line goes on was loose, could that be a reason for the bov not to function properly??

[TX Speed Demon]

would it affect the sound if I had it pointed the other way?

It won't effect the type of sound, but it may effect how loud you hear it. I've had my greddy facing both ways on my current set up (when I was venting). It was loud both ways, but you could really hear it better when I had it facing the driver's side. Especially when there was another car or a wall right there, then at least to me it sounded loud as hell.

YOu said you were runnign your BOV off a non dedicated vacume line (you're sharing it with somethign else). If so, this is a definate factor in your problem. You need a strong vacume source to open the Type S properly and your type RS I think has a stiffer spring, meaning an even stronger vac source would be necessary.

I would follow 505's recommendation and run a dedicated vacume line off the Brake Booster Line. I did it myself. The line is a good source of vacume cause it is never under use when in boost, and you're not usually in boost when breaking. Plus it's a very strong vac source which can be used for several things. Go to autozone and pick up a variety pac of vacume Ts. I think the brake booster line is 5/8" but am not positive. If you don't want to use that one, there is a nipple on the bottom of your stock intercooler. You could run a vacume line for your gauge to that, and tie your BOV line into your original gauge line.

Also, if the nipple on your BOV is loose as in brooken this is definatly a problem. It needs to be airtight for the vacume pressure to open the valve. If you have a cracked nipple or a non airtight connection you'll get a vac leak at you BOV whenever it tries to go off.

[TX Speed Demon]

If you are getting turkey at all, it's cause your valve spring is too tight. Start loosening it till you loose the turkey. If you can't loosen it enough it is because the spring is just too tight in the RS model. It might loosen up over time.

[LAZERBLU2003.5]

I tried that and If I loosen it too much it will stall if I rev it up, after I tightened the nippple on the BOV it worked but when I get in to first start driving it won't work but after I boost a few times then it starts working properly, I'm thinking definitley I need a new vac source.

[MSPRO]

Put a Greddy Type S on my car tonight, and did the 5 thread count thing and it seems to be ok so far. I have stalled a couple times but thats b.c I forgot and coasted to a light in neutral after letting it blow off. I just have to remember to downshift before coming to a stop. I am pretty happy with it so far but its only been a couple hours lol

[Equinox]

I'm running the Turbo XS RFL non recirculating valve, venting direct to atmosphere, and it works great. Only running at 9psi, too. All you have to do is set the spring real tight, where it will only blow off at or near 9 psi. That way, when toting around town, you wont blow-off at all, only under full throttle full boost. No stall ever :)

[Zoom-Zoom03]

My car has bad stalling issues. The thing has literally shut off about 5-7 times in the two months that I have had my Perrin SRI. In addition to this the RPMS drop low enough to turn some of the dash lights on, on average about once or twice every trip that I take in my car. I currently have the Perrin SRI with a turbohoses filter. This is a very large filter with an aluminum funnel on the bottom of the filter to reduce turbulence. I drilled a hole in the aluminum part and put in my stock gasket to house my car’s temperature sensor. That filter is connected to my MAF sensor, which is connected to my Perrin SRI. The SRI does have the elbow bend that is supposed to direct the re-circulating air from the MSP’s BPV. While I had just this set up my car stalled. So, I figured that I would get the turbohoses hard pipes with a Greddy Type-RS BOV. My rational for this was that the Greddy BOV could release most of the extra boost into the atmosphere and my cars original BOV could re-circulate a smaller amount of air and not disrupt the reading on the MAF sensor. I have been trying to tune my BOV the past few days to see if I could eliminate the problem but so far I have not achieved any success at all. I have had the valve as tight as it can go to as loose as it can go with out whistling, and everywhere in between. The hard pipes, the SRI, and the turbohoses filter are the extent of my current engine mods. I will be getting CustomMSP’s bar and plate SMIC next week. At this point, I think that my issue extend from the Perrin SRI, but if anyone thinks otherwise please let me know. Thanks in advance.

[CasopoliS]

Did you put the stock BPV in the right direction? There is an arrow on it showing direction of airflow. Still shouldn't stall completely out though with a tight BOV. I do not know much about the RS. Good luck.

Damn this thread is getting long.

[spacemonkey]

well hadnt had the time to tapinto the break booster so i just tighten uped the spring to about 5-7 threads and it runs perfectly...not as loud but absolutely no stalling or RPM dips. tighten it up and you will have no problems.

Took some time but im happy for now. Next will try break booster line.

If I had a camera maybe I can shoot some video to show that it is possible...and possible on the type RS as ********** (Cullen) is running type RS.

[Rich24km]

I was reading on the EVO forum about the 2nd vac attachment on the bottom portion it is needed to open up the BOV properly and they get the same stalling issues. It also tells you how to take out 1 of the springs in the BOV so you don't have to connect the bottom vaccum source. here is the Link, i am gonna try this http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tPath=1&tech_id=7

[JDM Sam]

Did you guys ever think the RS is a little too big for a T25 and very little boost?

[spacemonkey]

yeah the whole point of the RS is a better comprimise between the Type S (street use aka soft spring) and Typr R (race use aka stifff spring)...combine the 2 and you get Type RS.

So the spring has to be tighter and the diapragm is bigger for better capablity to blow off a larger volume of air. But it does work on the MSP as I know 3 speeds in Orlando including Cullen (**********) that is using Greddy Type RS.

Considering I knwo some pretty high hp SR20s that still use the Type S....so I dont really know whay greddy designed a new BOV...suposidly it has better reaction and response with its new spring design....im still not convinced other then its louder and may hold more boost.

[LAZERBLU2003.5]

I got the type RS and thanks to all the guys on here for helping me set it up right I just need new vac lines and a stronger vac source and it will be sweet once again thanks for the advise fellas!

[LAZERBLU2003.5]

I have another problem guys.......sorry for being such trouble, I replaced some of the vac lines with silicone hoses, and when I took it for a little test drive and when i start to build boost it will get to about 4.5 to 5 psi it starts to cut out bad?? what could it, to me I think the vac hoses are collapsing when I try to build boost. could it be anything else??

[Rich24km]

Just a warning when you get a stronger vac source, even though i've read it helps some people out. The valve opens up from like 17-21hg. That being said its going to cause the valve to open slightly which can make you stall more. I played around with the theory this weekend. After reading exactly how that valve works it makes it understandable. The reason the car stalls is because air is being let out that is calculated for which everyone knows. But as soon as you push the clutch in your Hg or vac will hit around 22. Which will make that valve open up unless you've got the thing set so tight you're gonna have turkey either way. So giving it strong vac can make it open quicker which will cause the stall. Now if you tap the gas right when the RPMs get low it won't stall out the reason being that it will jump the Vac up to like 5 or so to close the valve. The stock BPV also opens at 17 but its being recycled back into the system. I believe its set up this way to keep so much air from going to the throttle body while its not all the way open. I dunno i've been messing around with different things for BOV setups without running dual. So far taking the small spring out of the Greddy type-s seems to be working alot better, which doesn't make much sense.

[LAZERBLU2003.5]

yeah I tried to hook up the bov to the BB line and and it kept opening up the bov and letting the pressure out even though I tightened the BOV all the way so I hooked it back to where it was before now it runs fine.....

[spacemonkey]

im just wondering the A/f Ratios between circulating and venting

mine currently dips down to 10 a/f when giving it gas...im wondering if this is normal or is it becasue im venting?

Other then that I have no problems fromt he regular vacum line

[Zoom-Zoom03]

I think I fixed my stalling issue with the hardpipes, new SMIC, and greddy type-RS. I took off the type-RS, and my car still stalled, so I know this was not the issue any longer, so I looked around on the forum, and found that other people were having my same problem, EVEN PEOPLE WITH STOCK SET UPS, some of the members suggested that the issue may be related to the MSP's idle speed, I just turned my idle up about 500 rpms or so, and I took the car out and tired everything that made the car stall before, AND GUESS WHAT.....NO STALLING!!!!! I talked this over with an Cullen's (***************) Mazda tech and he said that what I did was adjusted the cars PCM, I turned the idle screw in the throttle body to the left, and I physicaly heared the engine idle RPMs increase, and I check my tach and the rpms certaily increased. The Mazda tech said that the rpms may decrease again, and he said if this happens that I need to ground something under the driverside dash board. I will keep you alll posted on this issue, and let you know what happens, but for now it looks like I may have fixed the car, I drive alot so if something happens it will happen soon, like I said I will keep you posted. I still don't have my type-RS back on, I am going to get a type-s and recirculate it like I should.

[otmsp]

you`re so right, my car does the same it stalls all over the place.thanx good info.

[HeHateMe]

Where is the adjust screw? I want to turn my idle up a litte as well. Please let me know.

[CasopoliS]

Where is the adjust screw? I want to turn my idle up a litte as well. Please let me know.

it is on the back of the TB where the throttle wire is. There is an allen screw with a stop nut. It is hard to get to, I used a ratcheting closed-end wrench. Losten the stop nut all the way with that wrench, then tighten the allen with the car idling. It should only raise it to about 900. Now tighten the stop nut.

[VA03Speed]

I have the Greddy type s and i have tried to run open atmosphere and it works for a while then i need to re-adjust the valve every so often to get it to work and still i have to fix the problem everytime and i have hard pipes but i think its because they are custom piping b/c the recirculating part on the stock piping for the bpv was made just like it so do you think that buy getting a new intake to get rid of the hole? and when it blows off either open atmosphere or recirculating it still kinda makes a flutter before the type s sound?

[MADSPEEDER]

This Is My First Import Car And I Have No Idea About ( Bov, Bpv, Ect. ) But I Wana Know What The First Thing To Do?

[TX Speed Demon]

I have the Greddy type s and i have tried to run open atmosphere and it works for a while then i need to re-adjust the valve every so often to get it to work

As the temperatures change you'll have to make small adjustments. Same if you change you boost levels.


...i think its because they are custom piping b/c the recirculating part on the stock piping for the bpv was made just like it so do you think that buy getting a new intake to get rid of the hole
If that hole on the stock intake where the stock BPV used to be is open, then you need to plug that. You're pulling in extra air after the MAF. It's leaning out your air/fuel mixture and could be causing the rough idle. Go to home depot and get 3/4" vacume caps or something to plug that hole and see if that helps.


...and when it blows off either open atmosphere or recirculating it still kinda makes a flutter before the type s sound?

When you are venting you will probably get a tiny bit of flutter. you can loosen your valve spring untill the flutter goes away, but make sure it's not so loose you then stall out. I have mine where it doesn't flutter when under boost, but it does flutter if I bring it up close to boost then let off.

When you are recirculating you need to REALLY loosen the spring tension. You should get it loose enough so when you rev up it doesn't make any fluttering noise at all. The stock spring tension should be good enough for over 8 psi. I've run recirculating at 8psi with the type s at it's loosest setting without any noticable leaks.

[TX Speed Demon]

This Is My First Import Car And I Have No Idea About ( Bov, Bpv, Ect. ) But I Wana Know What The First Thing To Do?

Research. Read through most of the threads in the MSP section and you'll learn more than you want to know. Welcome to the site

[Italstal6699]

Hi guys, sorry to jump in here, but I am about to lose my mind....

I have a 03.5, and put in both an CAI, and the Greddy BOV (purple one as in the thread). It was a custome install, with hard piping etc., and looks very good.

Problem is for 3 months, I have had the idle dip and stall dance 3-5 times a day. Basically anytime I lay off the revs, and brake coming to a stop. Or rev up in reverse, and then brake (ie: coming out of a steep driveway). It drives me nuts, and is the only thing that I do not like about the car. It's rather funny, because every tuner article I read about the stock MSP said to put in the CAI, and a bigger BOV....failed to mention the stalling issues though.

Have yet to tinker with the BOV for adjustment, but from the sounds of the thread, this may be the solution to my pain? By the way, does anyone have the CAI and Greddy BOV? Or, is it the stock Airbox with the Greddy BOV?

Thanks guys.

[TX Speed Demon]

^^ I have both, along with an FMIC and exhaust. Yes, adjusting the BOV spring tension will eliminate the stalling. You may get a tiny bit of turkey, but with adjustment you'll be able to fine tune it to your liking.

[MP3Architect]

ok so i finally have my fmic and greddy type s installed. this thread saved me from stalling (thanks tx). but my revs still dip quite a bit. should i adjust the spring even tighter then? i have only 2.5/3 threads on the tip of my screw on the bov and you said you had 4. im getting turkey louder than ever before which is ok i guess. i just dont want to dip so badly. should i just keep screwing? im almost out of thread..........
also, this is making me run rich as f*ck! any way to lean it out (im not tuned nor can i afford engine management right now)? im running open exhaust and all of a sudden i backfire like crazy!

[MSP #167]

ok so i finally have my fmic and greddy type s installed. this thread saved me from stalling (thanks tx). but my revs still dip quite a bit. should i adjust the spring even tighter then? i have only 2.5/3 threads on the tip of my screw on the bov and you said you had 4. im getting turkey louder than ever before which is ok i guess. i just dont want to dip so badly. should i just keep screwing? im almost out of thread..........
also, this is making me run rich as f*ck! any way to lean it out (im not tuned nor can i afford engine management right now)? im running open exhaust and all of a sudden i backfire like crazy!

Don't even bother venting the greddy. If you don't care about having turkey why even vent, all you are doing is causing more problems, unless you move your maf. Your rpm's will always dip somewhat, you run rich as hell between shifts and waste gas.

There really is no benefit to venting.

But if you want to keep doing it go for it.

I had it set up for a while where i was getting no turkey at all and very little rpm dipage. You just have to play with it enough and find the right spot on the adjustment screw. It took me a while.

I love the greddy sound so much better than the turkey. If you can't get rid of the turkey by fine tuning the greddy type s then its not even worth venting.

[TX Speed Demon]

ok so i finally have my fmic and greddy type s installed. this thread saved me from stalling (thanks tx). but my revs still dip quite a bit. should i adjust the spring even tighter then? i have only 2.5/3 threads on the tip of my screw on the bov and you said you had 4. im getting turkey louder than ever before which is ok i guess. i just dont want to dip so badly. should i just keep screwing? im almost out of thread..........
also, this is making me run rich as f*ck! any way to lean it out (im not tuned nor can i afford engine management right now)? im running open exhaust and all of a sudden i backfire like crazy!


For running rich: All you can do is recirculate some of that air. Either go full re-circ with the greddy, or do the dual valve set up like others here. You'dd still run super rich at full throttle till you get some ems. Your BOV won't really effect that, only between shifts.

Sounds to me like you don't have a strong enough vacume source. Are you runnign of the brake booster line, or the stock line? Is anything T'd off your line? If you're getting turkey it's cause the valve isn't opening soon enough, if you're getting RPM dips it's cause the valve isn't closing soon enough. Sounds like you need a stronger vac source to get it to open quicker then re-adjust your valve spring so the dipping stops. My car will dip down to 1500 rpms really fast, then drop slow till about 7-900 where it sits like normal 99% of the time I push in the clutch.

[PlatinumMSP]

i have an injen cai, and am otherwise stock, is there a way to move my maf and run dual setup if i just bought a greddy type s?

[mspHtown]

i have an injen cai, and am otherwise stock, is there a way to move my maf and run dual setup if i just bought a greddy type s?



why would you want to move the maf and run a dual setup?

[PlatinumMSP]

i was under the impression that it would help with the stalling issue, maybe i'm wrong, why would you do it in the first place?

[MP3Architect]

if you have relocated your maf you should not be stalling

[PlatinumMSP]

yeah exactly, my maf is in the stock position with my injen cai, I was wonderin if could just buy a greddy type s and relocate my maf and run dual setup

[MP3Architect]

you dont need to run a dual set up if you relocate your maf. all you do is relocate your maf and run vent to air. no by pass valve neccesary

[PlatinumMSP]

you dont need to run a dual set up if you relocate your maf. all you do is relocate your maf and run vent to air. no by pass valve neccesary

nice, how do i do that with stock pipes?

[MP3Architect]

you dont. relocating the maf is for people with hardpipes.
here's some reading for you
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123615384

[zzMSP03.5]

I have the AEM CAI, and will be installing a hiboost fmic with greddy type rs bov this weekend. Any help as far as what i should do with regards to the bov please let me know, should i try just running it open? and just test it then see what happens?

[MP3Architect]

I have the AEM CAI, and will be installing a hiboost fmic with greddy type rs bov this weekend. Any help as far as what i should do with regards to the bov please let me know, should i try just running it open? and just test it then see what happens?
you can always just try it out. but just give yourself enough time to be able to relocate the maf or have the tools to recirculate ready just in case you have stalling issues. maybe you'll get lucky. good luck with the install!!

[BlueBeast22]

Ok I have a question. I currently have the apexr1 recirculating kit with the greddy rs bov on it. Im also running hardpipes, im just trying to figure out which pipe i want to weld the bov to. I think recirculating is the best for the car and I dont mind the turkey. Should I just weld the bov to the hot pipe and keep it recirculated or should i weld it to the cold pipe near the TB and run a bpv also (dual setup)

[zzMSP03.5]

ok i have everything installed i was able to relocated the maf the maf is before the bov... the only way it will work without stalling is with the bov set to hard, i am guessing that if i move the maf on the other side of the bov (closer to the intake mani) i can open up the bov more without haveing to worry about stalling??? is this true??? if so i will be doing it soon.

thanks for the info guys... and btw the car runs great right now

[fastmazda1]

I have an Ion Performance FMIC with hard piping , Injen CAI , and ApexR1 recirculating system with Greedy type S BOV . What is the best way to get rid of the Turkey sound without dipping or stalling ? Do I need to have my BOV welded directly to the hard pipes or continue to use the recirculating system ?

[Omar MSP]

i would weld the bov wit the flange directly to the hardpipes and fent to the atmosphere...

u can do this but wit your bov instead of hks... u already have the hardpipes so your ahead of the game...

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123614715&highlight=kill+turkey

[fastmazda1]

if i weld the BOV directly to the hard pipe and vent into the air do i still need to run the BPV or reciculate in any way

[TX Speed Demon]

Ok I have a question. I currently have the apexr1 recirculating kit with the greddy rs bov on it. Im also running hardpipes, im just trying to figure out which pipe i want to weld the bov to. I think recirculating is the best for the car and I dont mind the turkey. Should I just weld the bov to the hot pipe and keep it recirculated or should i weld it to the cold pipe near the TB and run a bpv also (dual setup)

If you are going to re-circulate you don't need your stock valve any more. i would put the BOV as close to the turbo on the hot pipe as possible. Many people believe the cold pipe is better, but the BOV is designed to prevent damage to the turbo, so having it on the hot pipe makes the most sense.

also if you wanted to re-locate your MAF to the cold side you could then vent with no issues at all (if you BOV is welded to the hot side before the MAF)

ok i have everything installed i was able to relocated the maf the maf is before the bov... the only way it will work without stalling is with the bov set to hard, i am guessing that if i move the maf on the other side of the bov (closer to the intake mani) i can open up the bov more without haveing to worry about stalling??? is this true??? if so i will be doing it soon.

thanks for the info guys... and btw the car runs great right now

If you move the AMF to after the BOV you will have no stalling issues at all, no matter what you BOV is set to. Moving the MAF to after the BOV means it only reads air that has allready passed the BOV. So when you BOV open and let's air out, it hasn't passed the maf and the maf doesn't know it missing - hense no stalling.

I have an Ion Performance FMIC with hard piping , Injen CAI , and ApexR1 recirculating system with Greedy type S BOV . What is the best way to get rid of the Turkey sound without dipping or stalling ? Do I need to have my BOV welded directly to the hard pipes or continue to use the recirculating system ?

If you are recirculatin you should be able to just loosen the type s up A LOT to eliminate the stalling. No need to keep it tight if all the escaping air never leaves the system. I ran mine recirculating with the valve set very loose and the boost at 10psi and it still did not leak. No stalling or turkey present at all.

if i weld the BOV directly to the hard pipe and vent into the air do i still need to run the BPV or reciculate in any way

If you keep your MAF in it's current location you may still get a bit of turkey or stalling. It's very difficult to eliminate both completly. If you want to completly remove both you'll need to recirculate at least some of the air. Either hook up your stock BPV or recirculate all the greddy air.

If you move the MAF to after the BOV it won't register any vented air and you can elminate both stalling and compressor surge no problem.

[islander81]

So how is it all these people are having problems with there bov? I got the hardpipes from ********** with the greddy rs and no turkey sound or car stalling ever? Are you guys doing a whole different setup? My bov just whistles after if blows off sometimes but you just tighten it to get rid of that and it doesnt stall when it does that! I just dont like how its not that loud i need more boost!

[islander81]

i also still have my stock bypass on there, and im not reciculating anything just have cold air injen intake and harpipes with rs and no problems

[tallrd]

subscribing to read up on this when I'm not so wiped out

[MP3Architect]

bumping to the top so its easily searchable

[nycmsp718]

still having the stalling problem

[abbadabba]

if i get a turbo xs hybrid bov will it raise my boost at all for my 08 MS3 or is it just a waste of money . also dont want to through a cel? this valve is vta and recirc. so ill get some sound and i thaught a little performance boost at the same time any suggestions?

[mazdaspeedwerx]

check the ms3 secton.