Synthetic or not?

[Geoffsurfs]

What kind of oil are you guys putting in the MSP??

[AutoBox]

mobil 1 10w-30....tried 5w-30 but it got relaly nosiey...i think its too light

[mspeed101]

do a search! there should be a few threads on this question. I think the majority go with synthetic.

[ARunto]

mobil 5w-30 but i'm soon to try amsoil 5w-30

[Brian MP5T]

Royal Purple 30W...

Not 5W30...
or 10W30...

I had used 5W30 Mobil but cooked it before the turbo. The car never sees the winter so I went with a straight 30 weight. Seems tto run great and has yet to look bad on an oil change.

[AGR]

Mobil 1 - Always; in both of our Mazdas (5W30)

[yashooa]

Mobil 1 - Always; in both of our Mazdas (5W30)Ditto ... you WHORE!
:p

[evo..eater:)]

Mobil 1 10W30. It's the best in my opinion. I have used it in all my vehicles.

[z00mer]

RedLine 10w30. Has'nt done me wrong yet.

[Stanage]

In 500km... 200miles, I am changing my oil, probably to synthetic now that i'm at 5000km. Here is what I wrote in a previous post...

I studied turbo's and the coking problem; as well as mineral and synthetic oils. All oil subjected to high temperatures will break down eventually, but Synthetic oil has a higher operating temperature, approx. 40 Degrees F. 270F for synthetic versus 230F for Mineral oil. Oil whether it's mineral or synthetic will not bust seals unless pressure exceeds 65-70psi. IF your running a turbo HOT often, apparently 2000mile oil changes will prevent the damaged oil molecules from coking the turbo.

The chemicals that cause the coking in turbo's are the chemicals that give the wide-range, multivisocsity oils their name - do not choose these types of oil. The materials added that give the multivisosity capability are the same ones that cause the coking. THEREFORE 20W-50 is better for your turbo than 10W-50. Straight viscosity is best of all, with 10 points higher viscosity when summer arrives. Also, good turbo oil will have a high detergent rating and anti-oxidizing rating.

Lastly, our turbo's are water cooled, so we are less likely to have coked up turbo's... unless you never change your oil...

BTW I'm prob. going with 10W-50 myself... and while it seems the majority are going with mobil 1, I may opt for Castrol... not sure yet.

[SpeedMcheen]

I went to Mobil 1 syn 10W 30 @ 2,000 miles and noticed a slight bit more turbo "scream" but an overall smoother engine. For now I plan to stay with that forever.

[FSDET]

i put 15 50 mobil 1 is that bad ????

[nattyboy513]

mobil 1 5w30

[slyydrr]

just switched over to mobil 1 synthetic 10w30 yesterday... i love it already :D

[Torco-MSP]

torco racing oils 10w-30, 100% syn.

[KyRaceFan]

i put 15 50 mobil 1 is that bad ????
nope, not bad, just really thick stuff, usually used in older engines... also takes longer to "heat up" than 5w30 or 10w30, so be sure on a cold engine to give it more time to warm up.

And for the 50th time, i use mobil 5w30.

[marashka]

Mobil 5W 30 , engine works a lot smoother

[PhreakV]

I'm putting in Mobil Search 5wSearch in combination with a Fram Search Filter. seriously, though you've been here as long as I have. use the search button.

sorry for the quasi-rant, its just tiresome that people have spent the time to discuss this previously (I've responded in like 5 threads since last Oct) and no one ever seems to want to look into what some very intelligent people have to say.

[flyguy]

You may wish to take a look at the Amsoil specs before you commit to the Mobil. I can provide details and recommendations if required.

flyguy



I'm putting in Mobil Search 5wSearch in combination with a Fram Search Filter. seriously, though you've been here as long as I have. use the search button.

sorry for the quasi-rant, its just tiresome that people have spent the time to discuss this previously (I've responded in like 5 threads since last Oct) and no one ever seems to want to look into what some very intelligent people have to say.

[Mach 3.5 Turbo]

You may wish to take a look at the Amsoil specs before you commit to the Mobil. I can provide details and recommendations if required.
I'll be changing my oil this weekend, currently running Mobil1 5W-30, was gonna switch to redline 10W-30. Give us the details on Amsoil, maybe I'll try it. Why is it better than redline, royal purple, or Mobil1? I want the best for my baby.

[MSPguy]

mobil 1 5w30
just changed my oil today. good times.(thumb)

[Fatdaddy]

? for you guys with synthetic...is this getting rid of the dry-starting? Whenever I start my MSP after it sits overnight or so, the valves and crap rattle louldy for about 3-5 seconds. I was thinking of going to synthetic hoping it would remedy this. I know that dry-starting can really shorten the life of your engine. So what's up?(scratch)

[Professor MSP]

I switched over to Amsoil 10W-30 at 3000 miles. At the same time I also changed the transmission fluid over to Amsoil 75W-90. I believe my gas milage is marginally better as a result (approximately 26 miles per gallon at present). After a few weeks I noticed that my shifts were more fluid and essentially seemless, so I am pleased with the results. This ensuing page has excellent (albeit lengthy) information on oil specifications:

http://mcgeerf.tripod.com/americansyntheticoil/id17.html

The information contained in it exerted some influence on my decision to change the two oils over to Amsoil. I beleive this is what you requested Mach 3.5 Turbo.

[girth]

Why not just look for the 10 other threads on this subject? But anyway, I use Valvoline.

[Brian MP5T]

If you are running hard in the summer please stick to al least the 10W30 Band.

[funnylittlman]

? for you guys with synthetic...is this getting rid of the dry-starting? Whenever I start my MSP after it sits overnight or so, the valves and crap rattle louldy for about 3-5 seconds. I was thinking of going to synthetic hoping it would remedy this. I know that dry-starting can really shorten the life of your engine. So what's up?(scratch)
Our wonderful protege's have a cold engine rattle. This is common with most proteges, stock, boosted, etc. It's normal whether or not you have synthetic or regular oil in the lines.

-fnny

[Puckpimp71]

I know this topic has been hashed over a few times already, but if everyone just did a search then this forum would go nowhere. New people join everyday and have ideas to post, allowing the forum to grow and introduce new perspectives... you get the point. Anyways, http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ check it out.... I've lost hours of my life from that website!

[flyguy]

It's during the cold start that an oil's anti-wear and extreme-pressure additives and properties really factor in. There may be a slight rattle but a superior oil like Amsoil will still be able to protect your engine because of it's chemistry plus the fact that synthetic will start to circulate much faster and can then provide full hydrodynamic lubrication.

flyguy



Our wonderful protege's have a cold engine rattle. This is common with most proteges, stock, boosted, etc. It's normal whether or not you have synthetic or regular oil in the lines.

-fnny

[flyguy]

0w-30, 5w-30 and 10w-30 weight oils all provide the same protection at their high temperature range.

flyguy


If you are running hard in the summer please stick to al least the 10W30 Band.

[t3ase]

Thread moved to MSP Engine & Performance.