View Full Version : 1997 Protege Problems
viper624
02-28-2004, 11:54 PM
This problem just started the other day..I was stopped at a red light and the rpm's dropped real low then went to about 1700...the car was jerking pretty hard to....then it stopped but now it is idleing real rough. Any ideas on whats going on? Any and all help is appreicated. Thanks
charles
03-01-2004, 04:03 AM
Is that a stick or an automatic?
viper624
03-01-2004, 07:26 PM
It is a 1.5L automatic.
skilletrx
03-01-2004, 07:27 PM
i have a new msp and it does that also =P
BlueMonsta
03-01-2004, 10:05 PM
get it checked out
my 1st gen protege also recently just started having rough idle
viper624
03-01-2004, 10:24 PM
The check engine light came on today and the computer gave the code 505 and said idle controll malfunction. Does anyone think it could be the throttle position sensor?
funnylittlman
03-02-2004, 12:09 AM
My friend's 96 was doing this for awhile. It just blew up last week.
The bill came to 1800 bucks from the mazda dealer:
New Battery
New Alternator Belt
New 02 sensor
New Camshaft Position Sensor
Possibly new Alternator
New oil rings
Air Intake Tubing cracked, replace (X2)
That's all that I can remember right now, but damn that's a lot of $$ I'll keep you posted.
viper624
03-02-2004, 12:52 AM
Well I hope it is nothing that serious. Hopefully it is just a sensor or someting simple.Just in case does anyone have an idea of what a motor would cost and where to find one?
bruce95fmla
03-02-2004, 10:16 PM
it could be your idle control valve.(or am I saying that right)
Did you clean your throtle body out yet?
I can look in my 2nd gen manual and see what it recomends to do for that problem.
cephme
03-03-2004, 04:09 PM
I'd love to hear that as well. I have been experiencing some similar, though not exactly the same stuff, over the past few months. I've taken it to a dealer and a local shop. Neither have found anything wrong, but I know it just does not feel right. I am not much of a car guy so can you explain what these two things are? I will check my manual tonight as well.
viper624
03-04-2004, 01:00 PM
I think it is the idle control motor. I am going to take the car to the dealer tomorrow to see what they say. The other shops I have taken it to could not find anything wrong either.
viper624
03-04-2004, 01:01 PM
Also the car seems to lack power.
couvmerk
04-09-2004, 01:41 PM
Also the car seems to lack power.
Ok i seem to be having the same issue...>NOBODY has given a clear answer to this issue. I am used to a very strong knowledge base "take it the mechanic" dosnt cut it for me because half the time the mechanic dosnt know what he is looking for anyway...especialy with my merkur.... Idle air control and cracked intake is what i see so far. Im gonna dick around through all the basics until i find this nagging issue.
viper624
04-09-2004, 02:49 PM
If you find out the cause of this proplem please post. I cant find out exactly what is wrong either. (screwy) (dunno)
couvmerk
04-11-2004, 03:31 PM
We also just got a mazda 626 with a 2.0 4banger
I want to put a tranny cooler on that thing as soon as possible.
It also suffers from the shakes and its really freakin anoying.
My 2.9L ranger and and even my stupid 2.3 turbo merkur dosnt shake like these 2.
couvmerk
04-17-2004, 10:23 PM
my guess would that our throttle position sensors send a bad signal to the iac ??? i have seen bad tps send your idle all over the place
ocd-speed
04-22-2004, 01:06 AM
Hey Guys,
This is my first post here. But ive come to save you all : ). Ive been having the exact same problem with my 1.8L i just put in my protege. For a straight answer IT IS YOU TPS OR IDLE CONTROL VALVE. It wont blow your engine but it isnt good for it...it can cause it to run lean and so on. As for tps it can be adjust easily, but it may have to be replaced. As for idle control valve, check and make sure the wires are connected good. I just swapped my engine so i still have my idle air control valve and my tps off my old 1.5L i can sell them to you for alot cheaper than a dealer of autozone. Drop me an email at nickbloem@yahoo.com for more information.
couvmerk
04-25-2004, 02:21 AM
i can pretty much confirm what the other guy said ...its mostly our tps. I tweaked with mine and now it idles at about 800 intead of hell knows where...not a perfect solution but it is alot smoother. I have a code scanner and it said it was out of ranger...guessing it wore a spot out on the tps right there since it seems to spend alot of time there or something....
viper624
04-26-2004, 07:43 AM
Well thanks for all of the replies. It was my tps now the car is running the way it should be. The only problem is now my nissan is doing the same thing but it is worse. (bang)
couvmerk
04-27-2004, 12:06 PM
viper did you replace it or did you try to mess with yours ? I think replacment is the only way to fix it properly :/
simdrew
04-27-2004, 12:11 PM
This problem just started the other day..I was stopped at a red light and the rpm's dropped real low then went to about 1700...the car was jerking pretty hard to....then it stopped but now it is idleing real rough. Any ideas on whats going on? Any and all help is appreicated. Thanks
Check that all your vacuum hoses are hooked up and have no holes.
Salmon_Rob
04-27-2004, 04:56 PM
try adjusting the set screw on your VAF, its hidden by a small metal cover, pop it off and turn the screw clockwise until it smooths, thats a suggestion. my idle fixed itself after i gutted my cat ;)
loganss
05-19-2004, 08:14 AM
I have a 1998 Protege DX 1.5L and I'm having a similar problem. My engine idles roughly and when accelerating the car sometimes jumps forward in small bursts. My fuel pump is also pretty loud. Some dumb mechanic put a crappy one in there and I didn't even realize it until it was too late.
I just replaced the cheaper of the two 02 sensors, had spark plugs changed, had any carbon build in my engine removed. I also replaced my transmission fluid.
So it's safe to say I should take it to the mechanic and tell them to look for the following first:
1) Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
2) Idle Air Control Valve
Alexmo
03-22-2006, 02:14 PM
This problem just started the other day..I was stopped at a red light and the rpm's dropped real low then went to about 1700...the car was jerking pretty hard to....then it stopped but now it is idleing real rough. Any ideas on whats going on? Any and all help is appreicated. Thanks
(thumb) I strongly recommend you to go
www.forparts.com/lCmazdaunderhoodmaintenance12.01.htm
Probably your problem is, as you said the Idle speed valve, but can be also
a torn air intake hose between the air flow sensor and the intake manifold.
Hope this helps.
Best Regards.
DieCastoms
04-08-2006, 08:11 PM
Hey Everyone. I own a 97 protege and have been having issues with my engine lately.
I have a knock that I fear is going to be the end of her, but for now I would like to get what I can out of her.
When I start her she runs fine,(idling between 800 and 1100) but once I have driven and she comes up to temp., I really have to stand on the brake at lights cause she wants to go, and if I knock her into neutral (which I tend to do just so I don't have to hold her back) she 'idles' around 2200. RARLEY I can kick her down to roughly 1600 but more often then not she sits at 22.
I have some intake leaks which I can hear but cannot find. I KNOW I have a large leak between the air cleaner sensors, and the intake. Can I duct tape it for now?
Also, there is a small line from the top of the engine to the air intake hose which has broken and is to short to splice back (again. I did it once two years ago).
High on the passenger's side of the back of the intake is a vacuum line that just slips on. With the engine running, pulling that line off doesn't seem to change anything (by sound) but the whistle from the leak goes away. Putting my finger over the port on the engine (not the hose I took off) makes the whistle come back, but still nothing changes.
Next is, immediately above the air intake on the manifold is a post with a screw inside of it. Being the wreckless kind of guy I am, I turned it about 1/2 turn, and the engine seemed to clear a little. What is that screw and should I leave it where the engine sounds clean, or return it to where it was?
Last but certainly most expensive, since it is inevitable that the engine is going to die in my Baby, suggest a few places where I could get a new or gently used (-50k) engine that will bolt in and not require too many ecu changes and such. I am not looking for a race winning engine but I would like something that will press you into the seat a bit more then what she has now. I intend to take her off the road one day and overhaul her, but on a small budget. Please take me seriously even though I haven't posted much, and tell me what you think!
Thanks,
Blaise, at DC
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