How to fix your dead MSP subwoofer

[TooleBox]

OK... thanks to a tip from y0sky, we were able to put together this little how-to today.

Do you think your stock sub is blown? did it just stop working? it IS NOT BLOWN! and can be fixed very easily.

I will list my own mistakes so that you do not make the same ones!

Tools needed:

13mm Socket
10mm Socket
Philips head screwdriver
flat head screwdriver


First, start by disconnecting your battery
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid99/p3240818c9effe77016b93fb6b782a53c/f9fab248.jpg

Now, you do NOT have to remove the sub box to do this fix, but it does make things much easier on your back!

To remove the box, you will take out the 4 bolts (2 on each side), as well as the 4 screws holding the amp in place. you will also need to disconnect the RCA cables from the amp as well as the power supply to from the amp to the subs.

The box itself DOES NOT need to be opened... so do not waste your time taking out all of the screws!

After the amp is disconnected, just lay it off to the side and the box will slip outwards towards the rear of the car.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid99/p993d5b65e384ef73fd5c327f8cdde874/f9fab726.jpg

Once the box is removed, you will need to remove the speaker grill.

Now be careful... the grill is plastic and tears EASILY as we found out.

You will notice a rubber grommet around the lip of the grill. you will want to wedge a small flathead screwdriver between the box and the rubber grommet and pry upwards. Be careful or YOU WILL puncture your grill.

We learned the above the hard way. we wound up shoving the screw driver through the grill at each screw, unbolting the sub then turning the box upside-down and letting it drop out and take the grill with it!

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid99/p6472a3e4a562d75e530e15c2827e603a/f9fab5e0.jpg

Here is the problem. Kenwood used cheap, weak connectors to put power to the sub. the bass slowly (or in my case quickly) loosens the connectors and shakes them loose killing the sub

Here are the stock connectors:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid99/pfc6c12058da77636aa7625740141a6a8/f9fab6b2.jpg

We attempted to tighten and re-apply the stock connectors; but they were just too crappy and would not hold tightly!
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid99/p7ae77437190d377ebe84c0d3b54dab44/f9fab63c.jpg

After realizing that these connectors just werent going to work, we moved on to replacing the connectors with some nice beefy ones:

beefy connectors
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid99/p1c9941530999baadcfc9356c863e2772/f9fab438.jpg

Cut off the old connectors
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid99/pedc2fe60f62c069f8b01d5de77af0e99/f9fab4bd.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid99/pe0c1e05cc67d35bc655c5a3ecd8d1b29/f9fab2ae.jpg

Strip a few mm of wire
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid99/p03343bf591edb643dc3f337d45e04d93/f9fab47c.jpg

The finished beefy connectors

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid99/p30001441282a3b544a6f8762616de44e/f9fab355.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid99/pf9ba3ebcb72d792021d4a5d030ca79c4/f9fab2f3.jpg

the last thing you will want to do is bend the outer terminals inward. in this pic you see the power cables connected and 2 more horizontal terminals. These terminals are actually facing outwards from the factory. We found that the basket the sub sits in is metal... and these extra terminals touch the basket causing unnecessary ground-out of the speaker. bend them inwards to prevent them from touching the basket.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid99/p169380502e0c923030b751a857f7a324/f9fab11c.jpg

At this point you are done! just reaffix the sub back into the box, stuff the grill back in, re-mount the box, reconnect the amp, and enjoy your bass again without having to deal with warranty work and an ungodly waiting list for an unnecessary "replacement sub"

[jersey_emt]

Nice job. My sub is working as of now, but I'll probably do this just to be safe.

[Devilspawn]

great write up..thanx alot!!!!

[irr5302]

nice job congratulations

thanks

[AutoBox]

this loose connection causes the sub to come on and off correct? cus mine DOES sound blown....audible raspy sounds like the cone is loose and vibratin about.....im takin it to the dealer this week...if im put on this several month waiting list im gonna bitch about just given me some cash to get a new 8" sub....can i buy any 8" sub and pop it itno the stock enclosure?

[jersey_emt]

Originally posted by AutoBox
this loose connection causes the sub to come on and off correct? cus mine DOES sound blown....audible raspy sounds like the cone is loose and vibratin about.....im takin it to the dealer this week...if im put on this several month waiting list im gonna bitch about just given me some cash to get a new 8" sub....can i buy any 8" sub and pop it itno the stock enclosure?

Some 8" subs fit, some don't. Something like Elemental Design's 8" sub will definitely NOT fit...I know JL audio makes an 8" sub that fits in the stock enclosure. Not sure if it was the W0 or the W3.

[TooleBox]

Autobox, yes. You have the infamous "dead sub" issue. That is exactly what mine was doing. Do this fix and you'll be thumpin again in no time without having to deal with the dealership! (unless you want the dealership to do the fix for you... if so, just print this out and bring it to them)

[muohio]

Mine sounds really weak and only has half the bass from when I purchased the car a month ago. Could this be the issue, or can a loose RCA connection be causing my issue? I will probably replace the sub regardless with a JL 8" W3v2. The mounting depths are different between the W0 and W3v2 so I will have to double check that detail. The W0 is around 4" and the W3v2 is 4.3".

[TooleBox]

muohio, you probably have no bass coming from the stock sub... you're most likely just hearing the bass coming from the rear deck speakers...

chances are this fix will work for you as well... it only takes a handfull of minutes to do... so there is really no harm in trying. nothing to lose, bass to gain!

[AutoBox]

Originally posted by TooleBox
Autobox, yes. You have the infamous "dead sub" issue. That is exactly what mine was doing. Do this fix and you'll be thumpin again in no time without having to deal with the dealership! (unless you want the dealership to do the fix for you... if so, just print this out and bring it to them)

i got a dealer appointment this thursday...if im put on this damn list then ill give it a try.....when u talk of "beefy" connectors..what brand? i this different ratings for connectors? just wanna make sure i get the right one

[muohio]

Originally posted by TooleBox
muohio, you probably have no bass coming from the stock sub... you're most likely just hearing the bass coming from the rear deck speakers...

chances are this fix will work for you as well... it only takes a handfull of minutes to do... so there is really no harm in trying. nothing to lose, bass to gain!

I can see the sub reflexing when something is playing. BTW, you replied too quick and I was editing my other post :)

[TooleBox]

Autobox:

the connectors were just nice, stout connectors from home depot. they are also plastic sheathed(sp?) which the stockers were not

[AutoBox]

so were the stock ones not strong enough to hold the sub??? ill pick up some new connectors at radio shack and see what happens.....if it doesnt workout...hell....time for a upgrade

[BinaryRotary]

Originally posted by TooleBox
muohio, you probably have no bass coming from the stock sub... you're most likely just hearing the bass coming from the rear deck speakers...

chances are this fix will work for you as well... it only takes a handfull of minutes to do... so there is really no harm in trying. nothing to lose, bass to gain!

There are no rear deck speaker. Also, most people that have a dead subwoofer have a blown voice coil not loose connections, but nice write up none the less.

[TooleBox]

what are you talking about no rear deck speakers?

i have 2 tweeters, 2 front door, 2 rear door, 2 rear deck, and the sub... (unless the rear deck grills are just ports for the sub?)

[adm]

The rear panels behind the backseat are just for sub bleed through.

[BinaryRotary]

Originally posted by TooleBox
what are you talking about no rear deck speakers?

i have 2 tweeters, 2 front door, 2 rear door, 2 rear deck, and the sub... (unless the rear deck grills are just ports for the sub?)

Just space man. There are no rear deck speakers.

[TooleBox]

ahhh... makes sense... then ignore my prior statement about the rear deck speakers... that was a brainfart.

anyways. to those of you who's sub has "blown" maybe it is the voice coil... but it never hurts to check it out.

adm here has been on a 10+ week waiting list just to have them fix his sub.

In cases like myself and from the sounds of it Autobox as well; it is a case of bad connectors and is a quick fix.

[Pmpkinhead]

Great write up! I will do this also, I luv takin things apart. B4 I start, I need one clarification re: the speaker grill.

I am assuming you pop out the grill with your "safe" screwdriver technique. Once its out, you unscrew a bunch of screws around the sub and it will drop out.

One note on the wire and cheap connectors. Unless it says Kenwood, it may be wire and cheap connectors provided by the company that made the custom enclosure for the MSP. I hear bad things bout' K'wood and I can't say anything bad. I have not had 1 failure of a K'wood product ever.
367 (mspyellow

[instylz]

It looks real easy to do. My only question is where are these clips people were talking about breaking on the sub box? I remember when the MSP first came out people were replacing the sub then talking about breaking clips? looks like its all screwed in. Someone enlighten me. :)

[servoeyes]

Good write-up, but chances are the sub will die in one of many other inconvenient ways like mine did:

1) voice coil to spider connection went
2) cone disconnected from the surround

After that I'd had enough and upgraded...actually, it's a much better option. That stock sub is ass...just go over to the car audio section here and see pimpprotege's elemental 8a in a tiny freakin box and read his comments on its performance.

[jflo]

well...i just tried this. started @ around 11:50PM and here i am now @ 12:58am. there was a wire disconnected. so i connected it and surprise ! still no bass...guess that means my sub got fucked in the ass coil...the thing that scared me the most tho was when i reconnected my battery terminals, my engine wouldn't turn over. everything was on, except the engine wouldn't start. i got so scared i thought i burned a fuse, but when i came back from checking this thread, it started...

[Dexter]

Originally posted by jflo
well...i just tried this. started @ around 11:50PM and here i am now @ 12:58am. there was a wire disconnected. so i connected it and surprise ! still no bass...guess that means my sub got fucked in the ass coil...the thing that scared me the most tho was when i reconnected my battery terminals, my engine wouldn't turn over. everything was on, except the engine wouldn't start. i got so scared i thought i burned a fuse, but when i came back from checking this thread, it started...


when its connected, are you sure the NF output is on?

[jflo]

yeah...i turned it on and off and on and off and on and off....i turned up the volume to 30...hmm maybe it's the gains thing on the amp i think fucked around w/ it before i tried to fix the sub. i'll check it tomorrow...i'm so tired from crawling around in my trunk.

[TooleBox]

pmpkinhead: yeah... the sub is screwed in...

jflo: interesting that you did have a wire disconnected reconnectedx it and still nothing... like you said, somethin may be off from your other attempts at fixing it... Or you may have one of the other issues with the voice coil... if so, i cant offer any help.

sorry!

[jflo]

looks like it's time for the JL 8w3v2d2

[TooleBox]

troo dat.. will that sub work in the stock enclosure w/ the stock amp?

[SP33D]

those holes for the 6x9's in the back deck are useless... they don't even work as a good port, i dynamatted the entire rear deck.

[OrangeMSP]

why use connectors when you can solder=)

[TooleBox]

soldering is coming this friday... it just died again today!

this is getting old... and it's gettin old quick

[jflo]

Originally posted by TooleBox
troo dat.. will that sub work in the stock enclosure w/ the stock amp?

1st mp3 in nh said in a thread in the car audio forum that this sub would fit and would be a perfect match for the amp. hopefully some guy that works at fry's can get me the hook up real soon 'cause i hate driving my MSP w/o the sub expecting it to be bumpin'

[TooleBox]

yeah... im back to "no sub" status again... mine just went out again today!!!!

im gonna have to get back in there and see wtf happened

[jflo]

i really hate this. my sub has been out since mid december

[1sty]

SOmething to keep in mind. If you use a DMM you will read an infanite number when measureing the sub if this is the issue. Also becuase it has been improperly termed in the past, this is NOT a tinsel lead issue. This is a shitty spade connector issue. If you are going to replace this, simple use a pair of pliers orsomething to crush the spade shut to get it to hang on better. Or once the factory crimp end is back on, use some soilder to keep that little bastard in place.

[1sty]

Originally posted by TooleBox
yeah... im back to "no sub" status again... mine just went out again today!!!!

im gonna have to get back in there and see wtf happened

Do you have Digital multi Meter?

[TooleBox]

nah... i dont man. im electronically retarted... i can do an engine swap no prob... but im just plain stupid when it comes to audio

[1sty]

Originally posted by muohio
Mine sounds really weak and only has half the bass from when I purchased the car a month ago. Could this be the issue, or can a loose RCA connection be causing my issue? I will probably replace the sub regardless with a JL 8" W3v2. The mounting depths are different between the W0 and W3v2 so I will have to double check that detail. The W0 is around 4" and the W3v2 is 4.3".

The W3 or W0 will fit.
play the system and then go to the trunk and see if you can feel the sub moving.

Several things can cause what your getting.

[1sty]

Originally posted by TooleBox
muohio, you probably have no bass coming from the stock sub... you're most likely just hearing the bass coming from the rear deck speakers...



There are no rear deck speakers in an MSP.

[1sty]

Originally posted by AutoBox
so were the stock ones not strong enough to hold the sub??? ill pick up some new connectors at radio shack and see what happens.....if it doesnt workout...hell....time for a upgrade

They were just to loose. When installing I use my flush cuts to all but totaly collapes the connector to be sure they grip. it makes them a ROYAL bitch to get on, but they never come off.

[TooleBox]

yeah man... we determined that last night... another thing to point out how retarted i am w/ this stuff... i thought there were speakers under those grills on the rear deck...

anyways... im off to bed. will pop back into this tomorrow evening

[1sty]

Originally posted by TooleBox
what are you talking about no rear deck speakers?

i have 2 tweeters, 2 front door, 2 rear door, 2 rear deck, and the sub... (unless the rear deck grills are just ports for the sub?)

The grills are there becuase mazda would be retarded to make an entirely new rear deck lid for just the MSP.

The MSP has rear door speakers.

[1sty]

Originally posted by TooleBox
[B]

anyways. to those of you who's sub has "blown" maybe it is the voice coil... but it never hurts to check it out.

B]

This is where a DMM earns its keep. It can basicly point you to the problem. getting an infanite resistance means you most likely have something disconnected. A very high or VERY low reisstance means that sub has gone to a better place. If you get like a 20 ohm resistance, it may be a crappy tinsel lead connection. It may just need to be resoldered.

[1sty]

Originally posted by TooleBox
yeah man... we determined that last night... another thing to point out how retarted i am w/ this stuff... i thought there were speakers under those grills on the rear deck...

anyways... im off to bed. will pop back into this tomorrow evening

Are you operational again?

[1sty]

Originally posted by jflo
well...i just tried this. started @ around 11:50PM and here i am now @ 12:58am. there was a wire disconnected. so i connected it and surprise ! still no bass...guess that means my sub got fucked in the ass coil...the thing that scared me the most tho was when i reconnected my battery terminals, my engine wouldn't turn over. everything was on, except the engine wouldn't start. i got so scared i thought i burned a fuse, but when i came back from checking this thread, it started...

Get a DMM and measure the resistance of the sub form its terminals.

[SirJaime]

DAMN ! If you cant feel it from the front ? IT AINT WORKIN !
Now y'all do know the you can hold down the AM button to turn the sub on & off ?

[jflo]

yeah...it's called the NF function

[SirJaime]

I hv never had to spend any more money on DMM , testers etc.etc. just the wirer , subs amps , stereo , maybe a few other little things and I hv been playing with systems from before they were systems 8 tracks and shit. And If your voice coil is fcked up your sub/speaker is fried , trash it

And I aint seen 1 speaker that will not blow if you put to much distortion in it . Good luck anyway !




NF kewl , never knew and the freakin dealer didnt either !:wtf:

[muohio]

Originally posted by 1st MP3 in NH
The W3 or W0 will fit.
play the system and then go to the trunk and see if you can feel the sub moving.

Several things can cause what your getting.

The sub is moving, as I can see it reflexing while music is playing. I was installing the AUX input box and having a tough time with pulling the unit out. Seems that Mazda tied down the cables so you can't remove it.

[Mspeedchica3.5]

we took our sub to mazda cause it was makin whatever weird sound it was all they did was change the amp and sub(cause its a unit) and they tell u its the sub as well but just give u a whole new amp and sub then send u out the door! i still had the problem i just decided to buy a different sub that fits in the same whole the sound went away.

[1sty]

Originally posted by muohio
The sub is moving, as I can see it reflexing while music is playing. I was installing the AUX input box and having a tough time with pulling the unit out. Seems that Mazda tied down the cables so you can't remove it. It could be an RCA

[kevducridr]

1st MP3 in NH what would you recommend as a replacement for the stock Kenwood in the event of a meltdown? Taking the stock amp into consideration.

[Mspeedchica3.5]

oh yeah by the way has anyone put any foam or such in the back to keep the trunk from rattling.

[Notorious]

Originally posted by eX-r8eD
those holes for the 6x9's in the back deck are useless... they don't even work as a good port, i dynamatted the entire rear deck.

Same here. Sounds better now especially since i use 2 10s and ignore the 8 inch.

[1sty]

Originally posted by kevducridr
1st MP3 in NH what would you recommend as a replacement for the stock Kenwood in the event of a meltdown? Taking the stock amp into consideration.

JL 8W3v2D2 if you correctly remount the amp. If not, then a JL 8W08

[muohio]

Originally posted by 1st MP3 in NH
JL 8W3v2D2 if you correctly remount the amp. If not, then a JL 8W08

How does turning the amp over allow it put out more power? Is it due to heat disapation? There is a huge difference between 8ohms and 4 ohms as far as power goes. Or do you run the 8W3v2D2 as 1 ohm?

[1sty]

The stock sub is 8 ohms to aviod heat issues. The kenwood is stable at a 4 ohm total when bridged. Use the W3 as a 4 ohm load and flip the amp over to ensure proper heat disapation.

[muohio]

Originally posted by 1st MP3 in NH
The stock sub is 8 ohms to aviod heat issues. The kenwood is stable at a 4 ohm total when bridged. Use the W3 as a 4 ohm load and flip the amp over to ensure proper heat disapation.

Can it breathe even if flipped since the heat well be trapped on top? Figures that they wouldn't install in a manor to get more power from the amp.

[TooleBox]

im operational again... was the same damn connection that came loose again

[solospeed]

I wish mine was as simple! It was blown.

[jflo]

mine's just a POS. i'm gonna check it out again and see if anything is wrong...mayn i wish i had that DMM right now so i could just check the resistance. but i want that damn JL 8w3v2d2

[TooleBox]

same here jflo

i want that JL

[jflo]

hmm i found out why my sub wasn't working...i'd post a picture but my gf has my digi cam. anyway, one of the wires leading from where the connectors connect is ripped out of the white glue kenwood used to keep the wire in...hopefully i can reinsert this wire so the sub will bump again

[jflo]

okae...quick question. how r these wires on the part right below the cone attached ? r they just touching this part or are they actually touching another part inside this thing ?

[jflo]

ANSWER !!! :)

[jflo]

well guess what people...i fixed my subwoofer all by myself...yup ! didn't need no stinkin' help hhehehe :p after a couple of hours of struggle and a few scratches here and there, i finally got the lil' black wire that was connected to the thing beneath the cone (black paper-ish type cylindrical object). i had to use hot glue and a lil' scraping of the crap on the original soldering point. had i had solder, this would've been a ton easier since i just had to spread a good amount of the part of the wire that would make contact with the original soldering or just melt it again and stick the wire in there. it took forever, but i'm glad it works now. the leads that hook up to the subwoofer on the terminals i temporarily remedied by using pliers to shrink it a lil', width and height wise (using the pliers to make the leads curled ends to come in contact w/ the flat surface on it and then forcing them onto the subwoofer terminals). they held on pretty tight, but i'm probably going to change them later like shown in this thread. i hope that none of you have the same problem as me because it was truly a bitch to try to keep that wire in place

[InsidiousMSP]

Took mine apart last night (been waiting on the replacement sub for a few months). Connections were fine, but I soldered them anyway. Still doesn't work. Might as well get a JL sub...

[kevducridr]

Anyone got a link for JL products?

Also Craig how would you mount the AMP correctly? Any help would be appreciated. :D

[TooleBox]

yeah... im leanin towards a nice JL sub... im sick of this POS in here

[muohio]

I said screw it today and invested in a nice new shiny JL 8W3 D2. It was $120 plus tax and will be here next week. The dealer had to order it since they typically don't carry that size, but they are an authorized seller. Now, how do I go about flipping the amp over? Is it as easy as unbolting the support and then flipping it, or do I need a custom mount?

[kevducridr]

Anyone got a link to someone that retails JL? Please. :D

[1sty]

JL has zero internet retailers. They also shut down any that try and remove there source as a dealer.

www.jlaudio.com

you can find some basic BS infor on www.tweeter.com as far as prices go. Or just ask me.

[jflo]

i think the way you're supposed to mount the amp is to flip it over and get some long screws to be able to keep it upside down...guess that means i'll have to get some extra wire so that the speaker wires will reach to the other side.

[TooleBox]

thats exactly it jflo...

flip the amp so that the heat is disipated more efficiently

no neet to extend wires though... you just flip the amo... not spin it!

[1sty]

THe amp needs to be relocated. I would suggest under the front seats or screwed to the back of the rear seats. PLacing under the factory mounting position will only let all the heat cook it.

[jflo]

i've seen someone put an amp on the back of their rear seats. how would i do that ? is there like a wood board back there that i could use screws to hold down the amp ?

[1sty]

Its a metal backing although its not toaly solid. Just be sure your screwing into metal and with a resonaable screw, say 1" at max!

[jflo]

kewl socks ! the wires will reach right ? there's a lot of extra wire in the enclosure, so it shouldn't be a problem correct ?

[1sty]

SHould be fine. I would personaly put it under the front seat though. If you use some very serious velcro witha really tough tape side, then you can velcro down a 1/2" thick board under the carpet, to the floor so there is no need of screws. THen screw the amp into the board and just pull back what wires you need. The ground will have to be redone but its no big deal.