accelerated warmup system?!?!

[MSpeed]

it seems that our mazdaspeeds have an AWS system. everytime i start the engine cold it jumps to 2K and then drops to 1500 and holds until its warmed up. on my rx7 u can bypass the system by starting the car in first but this isnt true for the mazdaspeed since i cant bypass it in any way. does anyone know of anything?

[03MSP]

Every car that I have ever seen idles high when it is cold.

[BlueSpeed]

umm..just like a choke!

[mazdaspeedpower]

yeah, all my cars I've ever started cold have done this. It's normal, why bother trying to bypas it.

[X2sandman]

Next time i get into my car and start it up and the rpms are around 1500, should i wait for them to lower before i go?

Today i hopped in the MP5 and its around 35* out. I waited for like 3 minutes, and the rpms dropped to around 1300-1400rpm so i left, but i was real easy on the car (nothing above 3k) for about 10 minutes, and the idle finally went down.

Is this what i should do from now on, or should i wait for the idle to lower to normal before i go?

[Emode]

just go easy on the throttle and rpms until its fully warmed up

[MSpeed]

all you guys seem to accept it but im not really willing to. manufacturers put this system in their cars so that the cats warm up faster... but all it really does is put premature wear on the engine. im sure theres a way to bypass it... does anyone know if theres a wax plug in our throttle bodies which expands as the heat rises and lowers the rpms? this is another way of disabling the system

[toucci]

car warms up faster = less engine damage and less pollution

[dominoy2k1]

i think all fuel injected cars do this

[MSpeed]

Originally posted by toucci
car warms up faster = less engine damage and less pollution

first half wrong... last half right

[rocketspeed]

You're telling me that a slightly higher idle at warmup will cause an extra, meaningful amount of engine wear? More than the multiple redline runs most of us do every day? Call me skeptical.

[MSpeed]

i know that it does, but hey im not asking peoples opinions on this im just wondering if anyone knows how to stop it

[zmepro]

replace your engine with a carburated engine and manual choke

[jersey_emt]

What about putting in an engine block heater? It will reduce the warmup time, which would reduce/elimate the high idle from cold starts.

[dominoy2k1]

does it also idle high until the ecu gets a certain reading from the 02 sensor?

[jersey_emt]

The O2 sensors are heated in our cars, and warm up pretty quickly...I think that the high idle is based on the water temperature, because it seems to disappear when the engine gets up to normal operating temps.

[Glowmunkey]

Originally posted by MSpeed
i know that it does, but hey im not asking peoples opinions on this im just wondering if anyone knows how to stop it

Keep it warm with a block heater or mess with the coolant temp sensor. I guess you could put a resistor with whatever resistance value corresponds to 200* F or something close to that. Your engine may not run perfectly like this however, so you'd need an easy way to remove and replace it. You might get a CEL if the ECU has any way to guess the proper engine temp from MAF, IAT or the O2 sensors.

But why? You'll get more wear by having the car idle cold, longer. Upping the rpms slightly won't measurably increase wear, and you'll have everything up to temp faster.

[MSpeed]

ok kewl, thanks guys

[mspdfreak]

I would imagine the idle speed is based on manifold temperature. Every carbeurated car I've had used a metal tube that ran from the exhaust manifold to the inside of the choke. Within that choke is a tightly wound spring. As the manifold gets hotter, so does the metal tube, then the spring. As the spring gets hotter, it unwinds...opening up the butterfly valve in the carb, making the car run leaner. To bypass that would make the car run like crap upon start-up, possibly stalling the engine. Then you have to start the car AGAIN with no oil pressure, causing more engine wear. The new cars do this electronically, but the end result is the same, I imagine. It would cause more wear to bypass this system, and would no doubt void the warranty. Of course, I could be wrong.