How To: 1st Grounding Kit for MSP

[Panzozo]

Please move this to the HOW TO since I can't post there. Thanks

Full 1st Grounding Kits (with positive and negative Monster terminals) Installation Guide for MSP

The following is my installation experience for the full “1st grounding kit” with positive and negative monster terminals. It does not replace the installation menu that Craig supplies with the kit. It’s only for reference and by no mean is the official installation guide. I am not responsible for any damage to your car. If you purchase a different kit, the installation will be different.
Please proceed with caution.

Needed Tools:
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/neededtools.jpg


A big and small ratchet with several extensions. I have a 3” and 6” for the big ratchet and a 3” for the small ratchet. With all these, you should be about to reach all the bolts.
Metric sockets: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm and 17mm. Ideally, you will want to find a regular and a deep socket for each.
A 10mm wrench. This will make life a little bit easier.
DREMAL brush to clean hardened dirt on terminals. Electric tools are pretty handy.
Can of choke cleaner or brake cleaner to remove dirt form ground locations.
Can of lubricant to make bolts and nuts easier to be removed.
Clean rags or paper towels to wipe the cleaner and clean the connection.
Different cutter to cut the wires and electric tapes.
A set of Metric hex key for the Monster battery terminals.
A hollow steel pole to help you remove the transmission bolt.


Preparation:

Step 1: Remove 4 engine cover nuts using the 10mm socket. Then take off the cover.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/cover.jpg

Step 2: Remove the intake air box.

First, press the clamp on the BPV hose, which attached to the air box intake pipe, and pull the hose out.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/clamp.jpg

Second, remove the air temperature sensor and the MAF plug in.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/sensors.jpg

Third, remove the two 10mm bolts on the side of the air temperature sensor. Then release the 2 clips on the side of the air box and remove the top of the air box and filter
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/air_bolts.jpg

Forth, remove the two 10mm bolts. Then remove the bottom part of the air box
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/box_bolts.jpg

Fifth, remove the 10mm bolt that hold the angled pipe attached to the air box.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/ram_bolt.jpg

Step 3: Remove the battery

First, remove the battery positive and negative terminals. Remove the positive terminal will loose all your radio settings. Then remove two battery bracket 10mm bolts.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/bracket_bolts.jpg

Second, remove the battery by sliding it out.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/battery.jpg

Third, remove the four 10mm bolts that hold the batter tray and remove the tray as well.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/bat_bolts.jpg

After all these hard work, now you are ready to start the installation of the 1st Grounding Kit.
Yes, that’s right. You are just getting started. All the previous work has nothing to do with the grounding wires. It just makes it easier to install.





Now, let’s get ready to ground wires!!!

[Panzozo]

Grounding Kit Installation:

First Location: Remove the 10mm bolt that right next to the power steering reservoir. The bolt holds the power steering reservoir bracket. The bracket might bended a little when you untie it but don’t worry. Keep applying the torque and the bolt will come loose. You might need a ratchet extension for this.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/steering_bolt.jpg

Lift the power steering reservoir to access to the ground wire bolt. You will see the factory ground wire under the reservoir. Use a deep 10mm socket or with extension to remove the bolt. You will need to replace this ground wire with our first “1st ground wire”.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/first_bolt.jpg

After you removed the bolt, clean the area with cleaner on rag and connect the first wire to the same location. Flat side of the terminal attach to the fender and run the wire same as the factory wire to the engine mount. Tighten the bolt.

Second Location: Remove the 17mm nut on the engine mount. You will need a deep socket and/or long extension to reach this bolt. Then remove the factory ground wire.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/engine_bolt.jpg

Clean the area using the DREMEL brush, and cleaner on rag. Connect the other end of the first wire, flat side up and the second wire with flat side down. Tighten the nut.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/second_bolt.jpg

Third Location: By this time you should have your engine cover removed. If not, you will need to do so to get access to the third bolt. Remove the left valve cover bolt using a 10mm socket.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/head_bolt.jpg

Clean the area using the DREMEL brush, and cleaner on rag. Connect the other end of the second wire, flat side up and the third wire with flat side down. Tighten the bolt.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/third_bolt.jpg

Fourth Location: Remove the bolt on the left side of the manifold using a 10mm socket. The bolt is attached to a bracket, which holds couple vacuum lines.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/fourth_bolt.jpg

Clean the area using the DREMEL brush, and cleaner on rag. Connect the other end of the third wire, flat side up and the fourth wire with flat side down. Tighten the bolt.

Fifth Location: Remove two bolts on the right side of the manifold using a 10mm socket. The bolt is attached to a bracket.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/fifth_bolts.jpg

Clean the area using the DREMEL brush, and cleaner on rag. Connect the other end of the fourth wire, flat side up, to one bolt and the fifth wire with flat side up to the other bolt. Tighten the bolts.
On these 2 connections, it doesn’t matter if you have flat side up or down.

[Panzozo]

Sixth Location: Remove the 14mm engine bolt on the right side of the engine head. The engine bolt holds a large metal loop and some sensors. Remove the bolt and loop. You will need a deep 14mm socket or an extension for this because the loop is in the way.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/sixth_bolt.jpg

Clean the area using the DREMEL brush, and cleaner on rag. Connect the other end of the fifth wire, flat side down, and the sixth wire, flat side down, as well. Run the sixth wire vertically down to the transmission. Do not put the metal loop back. You don’t need it.

Also it will be easier to leave this bolt loose until the connection at the transmission is made.

Seventh Location: Remove the transmission bolt shown below, which is 12mm and is only an inch from a ridiculously large bolt that is a 19mm. Only remove the 12mm. You will need a deep 12mm socket and a strong ratchet.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/seventh_bolt.jpg

This bolt is very long and very hard to remove. If you can’t remove this bolt with just the ratchet, like me, you will need the “Hollow Steel Pole”.
Hold the ratchet in place, and put the hollow steel pole on top of the ratchet. That’s why the pole can’t be solid. See how long the pole is.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/pole.jpg

Now pull the steel pole towards your body to untie the bolt. It should work.

Clean the area using the DREMEL brush, and cleaner on rag. Connect the other end of the sixth wire, flat side down, and the seventh wire, flat side down, as well.
Run the seventh wire in a 90-degree angle towards the driver side firewall. Now tighten the 14mm engine bolt on the sixth location. Then tighten the 12mm transmission bolt.

Eighth Location: Remove the 10mm bolt, which holds the factory negative ground wire. This bolt is underneath a huge 3 way split in the loom. Push the movable tab outward and lift the clip that holds the loom.

You should have your battery removed by now. If not, remove the battery to give you more space. You will also need to remove the battery bottom tray to get access to the factory ground wire, which you will need to remove later.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/eighth_bolt.jpg

Now you will need to remove the negative battery ground wire. Remove the 2 clips that hold the wire loom from the brackets, one from the black bracket and one from the metal bracket. Open the loom of wire by either cutting it open (be careful not to cut other wires) or unwrap the electric tape. I unwrapped the tapes because it’s a lot cleaner.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/ground.jpg

After you unwrapped the loom of wire, locate the factory ground wire, which is black with yellow stripe. This ground wire should be connected to the battery negative terminal. You won’t miss it.

Remove the ground wire from the loom of wire. Re-tape the wires and clip it back to the metal bracket and the black bracket.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/ground2.jpg

Now go back and clean the metal bracket area using the DREMEL brush, and cleaner on rag. Connect the other end of the seventh wire, flat side down, and the eighth wire, flat side down, as well.
Run the eighth wire in a 90-degree angle towards the negative battery terminal.
The factory 10mm bolt might be too short for the new wire. Use the long bolt supply by the kit to connect them. Tighten the bolt.

If you are having problem putting the new long bolt back to the position, like me. To make life easier, you could connect the wire on the second hole of the same metal bracket. If you do so, you will need to get a “M6-1.0” metric hex nut. You can get it in any auto store or hardware store.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/eighth_bolt2.jpg

Ninth Location: Remove the factory ground wire and the negative terminal all together by removing the 10mm on the bracket next to the strut bar.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/ninth_bolt.jpg

Clean the metal bracket area using the DREMEL brush, and cleaner on rag. Connect the end of the ninth wire, flat side down.

Now connect the eighth wire and the ninth wire to the Monster negative terminal with a hex key. Tighten the bolt. Then put the battery back in place. First the battery tray, then the battery itself and then the battery mounting bracket to tighten the battery. DO NOT CONNECT THE BATTERY.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/negative.jpg

Tenth Location: Open the fuse box besides the driver side fender location and locate the positive battery terminal wire bolt. Remove this bolt with a 10mm socket.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/fuse_bolt.jpg

Clean the area using cleaner on rag. Connect the end of the final tenth wire, flat side up. Tighten the bolt.

Cut the wires off of the positive terminal as close to the terminal as you can. Untie all the clips or plastic strip. Then the positive battery wire from the fuse box will come lose.
Now you will have 2 wires remain. Strip those 2 wires and secure then to the 8 gauge direct inputs into the base of the Monster positive battery terminal with a hex key.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/positive.jpg

Connect the other end of the tenth wire to the Monster positive terminal with a hex key. Tighten the bolt. And reconnect the terminals to the battery.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/all_connected.jpg

Now you have done all the connections. Go back and check if all the bolts and nuts are tighten especially for the positive monster terminal. Make sure the wires are tightened. Otherwise, your car won’t start.

Now we need to cut your fuse box because it won’t fit the new wire. Cut the fuse box with the saw and/or the DREMEL cutter.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/fuse_box.jpg

Put the fuse box cover back.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/box2.jpg

Now you will have to put back your stock air box, and the engine cover before you can take your car out for a test drive.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/done.jpg

These are the parts that come out of your car. Hopefully, not more and not less.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/junk.jpg

Start your car and let it idle for about 3-5 minutes and you are DONE!!!

Now you can enjoy the smooth right. And don’t forget to send Craig an email to thank him for the great product.

[skilletrx]

has ne1 done a detailed howto for the msp? nice howto btw :)

[rktktpaul]

I thought this how-to was for an MSP.

Really, really nice write-up BTW!!

[1sty]

It is for the MSP. I haven't had time to read it all but thats one hell of a write up (thumb)

Also the how to for the MSP, MP3, P5 or sedan will all be basicly the same. All share the same locations.

[Maniac0301]

Most excellent write up very well done, extremely detailed with pics better than those found in your average chiltons. Unless regulard Proteges come with the plastic turbo piping and a MazdaSpeed engine cover this is a writeup for MSPs. BTW does this seem to help in anyway and is it legal for SCCA D stock or STX class racing?

[t3ase]

Originally posted by Maniac0301
Most excellent write up very well done, extremely detailed with pics better than those found in your average chiltons. Unless regulard Proteges come with the plastic turbo piping and a MazdaSpeed engine cover this is a writeup for MSPs. BTW does this seem to help in anyway and is it legal for SCCA D stock or STX class racing?
I don't recall the plastic turbo piping or MazdaSpeed cover having to do with anything major in this howto so it could be for ANY protege.

*think outside the box*

[Panzozo]

Thanks all for the kind word. I hope the HOW TO can help those who bought Craig's kit.
I think the installation is general for Protege and MP3. My brother has a Yellow ;) MP3. I haven't install a kit on his but the location looks the same. I said the grounding kit guide is for MSP basically because it's installed in MY MSP :D

Hope the HOW TO will save some time and hair scratching for those who ordered the kit.

I recommanded to install the kit together with the intake or FMIC or hardpipe if you plan to get one in the future. It's a lot easier to do it all together.

Craig: I have the write up in .doc format. If you want it, I can email it to you. You could ship it with your product.

[DeadAir]

Damn fine write-up... I put a ground kit with 8 guage on my 2003 P5, and I'm gonna switch to 4 guage... I picked up some Tsunami power wire from a local car audio place, and I've got a few days off from work so it's time to play :-)

[Moscarsado]

Where did u get the grounding kit and how much did it cost?

[1sty]

From me, $120 + shipping for the full kit which is what he had. Its a bit more for Yellow, green or purple wire.

[1sty]

"Craig: I have the write up in .doc format. If you want it, I can email it to you. You could ship it with your product. "

PLease do.

[Panzozo]

Yeah, I got it from 1st MP3 in NH. Great product. Great quality. I highly recommand it.

Craig: just emailed the file to you.

[silverspeedtim]

could you make it in red or silver wire

[aftershock63]

I PMed him a while ago but he said he wasn't really making them you can ask again because I would LOVE to have one!

[1sty]

I PMed him a while ago but he said he wasn't really making them you can ask again because I would LOVE to have one!
I'm making them again!
I just can't get battery terminals right now.

[Reitrof]

1st MP3 in NH

How much and when do you expect to make more?

Thanks

[1sty]

1st MP3 in NH

How much and when do you expect to make more?

Thanks
I make them to order.

You order....I make :D

$75 + shipping for the basic, $87.50 + shipping for the full negative side kit without the battery terminal, $100 + shipping for the full kit without the battery terminals

Add $10 for Yellow or other hard to come by colors. Blue, silver, black and red add no charge.

[rktktpaul]

Ok Craig -

I bought the basic kit from you, but am now wishing I had gone with the full negative side kit. Can I still get the pieces necessary to make it a full negative side kit?

[1sty]

Ok Craig -

I bought the basic kit from you, but am now wishing I had gone with the full negative side kit. Can I still get the pieces necessary to make it a full negative side kit?
I can make you the other wire you need but I can't get the battery terminals. Its just a Monster cable MBC2-. YOu can use anything with a top ring post though. I prefer the Monster though so I only use them.

[L8R]

okay, perhaps you could help me with this.

i was removing wires last night and did this:

http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/ninth_bolt.jpg
removed the short wire (in pic), moved the white ground or the airbag sensor wires (next to it) to another hidden grounding point, and moved the tiny gray box below on the right and also removed the entire bracket.

i also removed the stock negative wire completely without replacing it
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/ground2.jpg

i do have two wires going from the battery to here:
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/sixth_bolt.jpg
(the star bolt)

and

(one of the bolts) here:
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/fifth_bolts.jpg
(above the intake mani)

okay, so do i really need to replace the stock ground wire i completely removed? also, that white plastic piece ( i believe holds the airbag sensor), does it need to be there? your help is GREATLY appreciated.

thanks!

[Panzozo]

okay, perhaps you could help me with this.

i was removing wires last night and did this:

http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/ninth_bolt.jpg
removed the short wire (in pic), moved the white ground (next to it) to another hidden grounding point, and moved the tiny gray box below on the right.

i also removed the stock negative wire completely without replacing it
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/ground2.jpg

i do have two wires going from the battery to here:
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/sixth_bolt.jpg

and

(one of the bolts) here:
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/fifth_bolts.jpg

okay, so do i really need to replace the stock ground wire i completely removed? also, that white plastic piece ( i believe holds the airbag sensor), does it need to be there? your help is GREATLY appreciated.

thanks!

Yes, you do need to replace the stock ground wire. I believe Craig's kit comes with the wires that replace the stock ground wire point. It's at the point where you suppose to put the additional longer bolt on.

When I replace/install the ground wire kit, I didn't touch the white plastic piece and the little grey box. I left them alone. All I did was connect the ground wire to the metal bracket that's touching the chassis. Just grounding it, and that's what the ground wire is for :)

Hope that helps.

[L8R]

thanks :). fast response o.O,

i have my voltmeter hooked up and im still running at 14 volts and no check engine light. my car starts and runs fine... im just worried something may not work later? also, the mazdaspeed and protege5 stock grounding points are in different locations. just thought id let u know :) i love your write up though. i just have the sun industries grounding kit, not craigs kit.

[Panzozo]

thanks :). fast response o.O,

i have my voltmeter hooked up and im still running at 14 volts and no check engine light. my car starts and runs fine... im just worried something may not work later? also, the mazdaspeed and protege5 stock grounding points are in different locations. just thought id let u know :) i love your write up though. i just have the sun industries grounding kit, not craigs kit.

Regardless of what kind of grounding kit that you have, make sure you have a grounding point at the engine block. In my write up, it's the location number seven, or number eight.

In terms of the voltmeter, try turn off your engine and check the voltage. It should not be higher than 12.9. If your engine is on and you read 14 volts or higher, you might have a battery which is not recharging. Now if you have an optima, those deep cycle recharge battery, I would say it's normal because the battery probably has not reach to the charging point.

May be some electronical engineer could drop in some insight :)

[L8R]

with my car in 'off' (i turn the key once), it reads at 12 volts. when i'm driving, it is between 12-14 volts, but usally 14 constant. i have an optima red top battery fyi. only grounding point to the block is location 6 (and that comes straight from the battery to the block).

thanks for all your help and indepth responses!
big help

[1sty]

I am a little losed as to what you have done. Nothing to do with the air bag should be touched.

The only differenc I have seen between some of the proteges is with the factory grounds. On some cars, it goes from the transmission braket to the body ground point on the shock tower. Then another wire goes from there to the battery. On other Proteges the wire from the transmission goes to the battery first, then another wire goes to the factory body ground.

Its visiable here:
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/ground2.jpg

On Panzozo's car, the ground is as I first described. I take it your P5 does not have 2 wires at the negative battery terminal, it has 2 at the strut tower body mount?

With my kit, you can wire it either way. You can also use the wire that is intended to go from the tranny to the battery to go from teh engine to the battery, this way avioding the hardest locations to get to.

It is important that the wires all chain and get connected to the battery terminal so you will either have a long chain of wires that ends at the battery or a long chain that ends at the battery and then one more wire that connects from the battery to the strut tower.

[L8R]

i just completely removed the stock negative wire altogether. instead of running a wire to where the stock negative wire went to (transmission i assume), i connected it to here:
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/sixth_bolt.jpg (bolt shown with the star)

in the pic attached (#1), in green is what i removed out of the motor (negative wires and brass bracket), red is what i moved to the stock negative wire ground point to be hidden (transmission i assume), and the pink is what i moved to be hidden away as well.

im just worried about what i circled in pink, if itll affect anything by not having a direct ground wire to it or even by moving it, if ill be screwed lol

thanks for your indepth reply :)

[DeanSweet]

I just installed my grounding kit and it seems to working fine. When I hit the major bass, rolling wondows down it all seems to be better. I will wait til the morning to see if the a/c switching is better with the headlights on. The worst part for me was getting to the alt.

-Dean

[Laser03pro]

Is he still making these kits I was thinking about geting one? Mostly I just want the battery cables.

[Nightmare]

sweet.

[brealmp3]

sub'd

[protegeric]

sub`d

[MSP#735]

whats the best method to remove those PITA bolts???????

[protegeric]

which PITA bolts? the one on the transmission? just put a ratchet on it and put a long wrench on the ratchet handle. no need for a big long pole. also, u might want to get a ratcheting 10mm wrench with a swiveling/flex head (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00944006000) for the bolt under the Y in the wiring harness (or do what the instructions say and move the wiring harness, easiest way). nothing about the install is a real PITA. also, go to http://www.monstercable.com/mpc/ and http://www.knukonceptz.com/ and put together your own grounding kit. order about 16 feet of wire and about 20 ring terminals and the battery terminals. that should be plenty to put one together. just make sure u have adequate crimpers. u can make a kit out of 8 gauge, that would be sufficient. the power does seem to come on smoother without a pause then sudden umf. also, starting the car and idle seem to be smoother. but there is definitely no power increase.


whats the best method to remove those PITA bolts???????

[samm5149]

i don't quite understand what the purpose of this is. what does the grounding kit do?

[protegeric]

From my previous post: "the power does seem to come on smoother without a pause then sudden umf. also, starting the car and idle seem to be smoother. but there is definitely no power increase." I guess the real reason would be for people running pretty nice sound system set-ups, to help with headlight dimming and etc. But as I posted before, I did notice a difference in start-up and idle. I do not have a big nice sound system, just stock MPS system (8" sub).


i don't quite understand what the purpose of this is. what does the grounding kit do?

[MSP#735]

ok so i havent completely installed the kit, i installed everything BUT the negative terminal....my lights however still cause a dimming when rolling up the windows but doesnt stumble when turning on the a/c or defrost...will the negative treminal grounding eliminate the dimming of the lights when rolling up the windows??????

[newFormula]

anyone know a dealer who sells a grounding kit for the msp?

[DeadGeneration]

subscrizzle fo' shizzle

With luck, finishing my speaker install tomorrow, will think about this mod.

[protegeric]

make one... if ur really interested in making it urself, PM me. it will come out to about $65 or so and be just as good or better than anything else.


anyone know a dealer who sells a grounding kit for the msp?

[protegeric]

I`ve gotten a couple PMs, which is a good thing, about making a grounding kit. If no one minds I`ll post a little help heer...
Ok, I used a combination of two company`s stuff. If you wanna shell out the money for ALL Monster stuff, that`s coo, but this wire: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?category=Kolossus%20Kable is just as good. You want the Kolossus Kable, not eKo kable. The Kolossus Kable is tinned oxygen free copper, not just oxygen free copper. It is either not going to or MUCH less likely to rust or do anything funky. I also used: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?Category=Battery%20Terminals knu`s battery terminals. THEN, I went to Monster: http://www.monstercable.com/mpc/productPageMPC.asp?pin=3040&section=power for the ring terminals (3/8 stud). Thees are the best ring terminals. I ordered 16 feet or so of the kable and I think 22 ring terminals total (11 packages). You`ll definitely want the larger stud size (3/8) because I even had to take a dremel to make one a little bigger. I did have some extra wire and terminals though. The terminals are usually sold in pairs, so pay attention when you`re ordering. Make sure you have a way to get a good crimp if you`re going 4 gauge or larger, I went 8. Also, you`ll need a good hair dryer or paint stripper for the heat shrink provided with the terminals. Any Qs? PM me...

[neoturner]

sub

[neoturner]

I`ve gotten a couple PMs, which is a good thing, about making a grounding kit. If no one minds I`ll post a little help heer...
Ok, I used a combination of two company`s stuff. If you wanna shell out the money for ALL Monster stuff, that`s coo, but this wire: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?category=Kolossus%20Kable is just as good. You want the Kolossus Kable, not eKo kable. The Kolossus Kable is tinned oxygen free copper, not just oxygen free copper. It is either not going to or MUCH less likely to rust or do anything funky. I also used: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?Category=Battery%20Terminals knu`s battery terminals. THEN, I went to Monster: http://www.monstercable.com/mpc/productPageMPC.asp?pin=3040&section=power for the ring terminals (3/8 stud). Thees are the best ring terminals. I ordered 16 feet or so of the kable and I think 22 ring terminals total (11 packages). You`ll definitely want the larger stud size (3/8) because I even had to take a dremel to make one a little bigger. I did have some extra wire and terminals though. The terminals are usually sold in pairs, so pay attention when you`re ordering. Make sure you have a way to get a good crimp if you`re going 4 gauge or larger, I went 8. Also, you`ll need a good hair dryer or paint stripper for the heat shrink provided with the terminals. Any Qs? PM me...


good stuff. had to redo my grounds cause the wire i used was like copper pipe. got the terminals and went ahead and got the dist block and all that. if NE1 wants to do this yourself the walkthrough is straight forward and if you need something like this it's a good idea to take a look at your engine every now and then. losen and tighten a few bolts.

I used a steel pipe about a quarter of the size in the walkthrough and was able to get that bolt off just fine.

[protegeric]

glad I could help a little. But, you can use just a (big) wrench with a box end. Kind of like a cheater. There`s no real need for a big long pole. But, glad to hear it, the walkthrough really is pretty good.


good stuff. had to redo my grounds cause the wire i used was like copper pipe. got the terminals and went ahead and got the dist block and all that. if NE1 wants to do this yourself the walkthrough is straight forward and if you need something like this it's a good idea to take a look at your engine every now and then. losen and tighten a few bolts.

I used a steel pipe about a quarter of the size in the walkthrough and was able to get that bolt off just fine.

[yashart_mp3]

sub'd

[mazdaspeed777]

subbin to do this mod later

[KrayzieFox]

subbin to do this mod later
I just did this on my P5 so I wanted to let you know that wire number 7 & 8 are gonna connect to a different location. The P5 has a different grounding point for the negative wire, and doesn't even have the little metal bracket shown on Panzozo's MSP. It's in the same area as the MSP's grounding point, but doesn't bolt up to a bracket, so there's no need for the longer bolt or the metric nut. I'll take a pic later on to show you what I'm talking about .. but other than that everything is the same!

[protegeric]

thanks!


I just did this on my P5 so I wanted to let you know that wire number 7 & 8 are gonna connect to a different location. The P5 has a different grounding point for the negative wire, and doesn't even have the little metal bracket shown on Panzozo's MSP. It's in the same area as the MSP's grounding point, but doesn't bolt up to a bracket, so there's no need for the longer bolt or the metric nut. I'll take a pic later on to show you what I'm talking about .. but other than that everything is the same!

[mazdaspeed777]

I just did this on my P5 so I wanted to let you know that wire number 7 & 8 are gonna connect to a different location. The P5 has a different grounding point for the negative wire, and doesn't even have the little metal bracket shown on Panzozo's MSP. It's in the same area as the MSP's grounding point, but doesn't bolt up to a bracket, so there's no need for the longer bolt or the metric nut. I'll take a pic later on to show you what I'm talking about .. but other than that everything is the same!

Thanks, I will be doing this in a week or so. So thanks for the heads up. Any pics would be much appreciated.

[Titanium-99]

subbin

[mazdaspeed777]

Does anyone else have any tips for installing this on a P5??

[KrayzieFox]

Does anyone else have any tips for installing this on a P5??
I volunteer!!! (cabpatch)

Ok, the only difference between the MSP and the P5 is the stock negative grounding point. On the MSP it was show on this pic:
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/Panzozo/eighth_bolt.jpg

On the P5, it's directly below the throttle body, almost by the EGR .. so just a little further back than the MSP. The little black plastic you see on the bottom right corner of this pic is the battery tray, so that should help you with figuring out where I'm pointing the camera to. I couldn't squeeze the camera back there for a good pic, but hopefully this gives you a rough idea on where it's at:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/pf28359613c89d36929315432d487870e/ea66e66e.jpg

So besides that grounding point, everything else is the same. Oh, and the P5 also only has one wire going to the positive battery terminal after you replace the stock ground wire, so you won't have two wires left but just one. Good luck man, feel free to PM me if you need help with anything.

[KrayzieFox]

One last thing, for those who are interested in making their own kit .. I'll try to make life a little bit easier for you.

Here are the items you will need to buy:

1. 14-16 feet of 4 gauge power wire
If you want yellow, discountcarstereo is the ONLY website that still carries it, and you better hurry if you want it cuz Stinger discontinued it.
http://www.discountcarstereo.com/detail.aspx?ID=284

2. 20 gold (24K) plated ring terminals
If possible, do NOT buy Stinger terminals cuz they're a pain in the ass! The rings aren't wide enough for a lot of the bolts (12 mm, 14mm, 17mm) so I had to dremel mine to widen them. Not a big deal .. but kind of a pain in the end.

3. Postive/Negative 200-series Monster battery terminals
Look on eBay, you can pick up both for $20 or so.


Here are the measurements of each wire as well, so you know how much to cut for each one:
1st wire: 18 inches
2nd wire: 14 inches
3rd wire: 11 inches
4th wire: 14 inches
5th wire: 18 inches
6th wire: 16 inches
7th wire: 18 inches
8th wire: 24 inches
9th wire: 11 inches
10th wire: 14 inches

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/pc47c1a275b8297db99ef3120f57cc6fc/ea66e645.jpg

As always .. PM with questions and good luck with the install.

[Speed3.5]

guys i have a better idea
instead of having one color for the whole set up
can someone get the Ft that are used for + and for ( - and grounding )
i'd like to use two color set up: red for + and black for ( - and grounding )
but pls make the right measurements
thnx

[mazdaspeed777]

One last thing, for those who are interested in making their own kit .. I'll try to make life a little bit easier for you.

Here are the items you will need to buy:

1. 14-16 feet of 4 gauge power wire
If you want yellow, discountcarstereo is the ONLY website that still carries it, and you better hurry if you want it cuz Stringer discontinued it.
http://www.discountcarstereo.com/detail.aspx?ID=284

2. 20 gold (24K) plated ring terminals
If possible, do NOT buy Stringer terminals cuz they're a pain in the ass! The rings aren't wide enough for a lot of the bolts (12 mm, 14mm, 17mm) so I had to dremel mine to widen them. Not a big deal .. but kind of a pain in the end.

3. Postive/Negative 200-series Monster battery terminals
Look on eBay, you can pick up both for $20 or so.


Here are the measurements of each wire as well, so you know how much to cut for each one:
1st wire: 18 inches
2nd wire: 14 inches
3rd wire: 11 inches
4th wire: 14 inches
5th wire: 18 inches
6th wire: 16 inches
7th wire: 18 inches
8th wire: 24 inches
9th wire: 11 inches
10th wire: 14 inches

The wires should roughly look like this, 1-10 from outside to inside / right to left (switch 3 & 4 and 4 & 5 should be longer .. I messed up so learn from my mistakes).
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/pc47c1a275b8297db99ef3120f57cc6fc/ea66e645.jpg

As always .. PM with questions and good luck with the install.

Wow! (nana) (breakn) Thanks for all the help on the P5 install. That helps me a ton! Props for helping to make this forum such a helpfull sight. God bless!

[bazooka joe]

i found this

Taylor - Grounding Kits - Taylor Universal For Under Hood Mounted Battery With 2 Gauge Wire

under 80$ shipped , will this be as good as 4 gauge wire set up ??

#2 thats a large wire?

[Speed3.5]

#2 thats a large wire?


don't mind that msg , i checked with the web that sells it and its not worth , it comes as two short wires anyways

but yeah i think it is larger than #4

[KrayzieFox]

guys i have a better idea
instead of having one color for the whole set up
can someone get the Ft that are used for + and for ( - and grounding )
i'd like to use two color set up: red for + and black for ( - and grounding )
but pls make the right measurements
thnx
I'd gladly do that for you, but I'm not quite sure what you consider + and - grounding wires. If you can let me know which wires are which type then I'll gladly take the measurements for you.

[PlatinumMSP]

alright i just ordered hopefully everything i needed to peice together my own kit... hopefully everything gets here by friday so i can install it at an install party mocc is having this saturday...

[PlatinumMSP]

both of my 17mm bolts from my motor mount are cross threaded from back when i was putting in inserts, so removing them isnt an option for me, is that an alternate grounding point that i can use? Also does anyone have another picture of the positive monster battery terminal? Mine dosnt have a location where I could screw in the 2 extra wires, not just the top portion.

[danielschweer]

Also does anyone have another picture of the positive monster battery terminal? Mine dosnt have a location where I could screw in the 2 extra wires, not just the top portion.

i recently had trouble with this too. from what i gather, monster doesn't make the positive terminal with the 2 holes on the side anymore, only the top mount. i got kinda lucky, my local stereo shop had a monster display plaque thing with fuse holder, distribution block and fortunately for me, that particular terminal, i convinced them to take it off, sell it to me and swap it out with a new(lame) one. i do believe they are not hard to get on ebay though, i'm pretty sure while i was looking, i saw a few for pretty cheap.

[PlatinumMSP]

if i just bought some 8 guage terminals and put it with my *new version* positive monster terminal would that work just fine?

[danielschweer]

i imagine they would work just fine. the only problem i could forsee is that the bolt on top of the terminal is not all that long, so if you have a bunch stacked on top, it might only be on by a couple threads.

[Tzar177]

my wire terminals ended up not fitting over the 17mm bolt on the left side of engine where the stock wire was. i just bolted the new wire at another location near the old one. anyone see a problem with this?

[Tzar177]

is it necessary to use the dremel tool? my interior lights still dim when i roll up my windows

[AzteCypher]

subbin

[fuadmsp]

i want one how can i get one or make one

[danielschweer]

its easy man. 4 gauge power wire and terminals.

[fuadmsp]

how much of cable should i get

[ucMP3]

Depends how many grounding points you want to utilize. 12 ft. should be more than enough.

[fuadmsp]

im gonna do exactly the same as the same as the person that did the write up

[Tzar177]

Thats what I did. I just followed the mounting points and measured to get an appox length in cable I needed to order. I don't remember the length I ordered tho. For me, it was hard to find a ring terminal large enuf to fit the stock location by the passenger side engine mount

[fuadmsp]

im just trying to make sure ihave everything i need to do grounding kit becuz i dont want to be running around for parts when i start

[Tzar177]

i think you will need a 1/2" ring terminal for the pass engine mount

[danielschweer]

or you can drill out the one you have

[fuadmsp]

can i use copper or do i need gold terminals

[danielschweer]

i'm sure coppers fine