How To: MP3/P5/MSP Front & rear Pad/Rotor Change (No 56K)

[TXMazdaSpeeder]

How To: Pad/Rotor Change on 2001 MP3 (other 3rd gen Protégé may differ)
By: Jeff Boyd (TXMazdaSpeeder)

Please click here for a How-To on the MP3/P5 rear pad install by (http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113741): Niv

MSP Rear pad replacement! (http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4617352&postcount=182):by evilmonkeyMSP

NOTE: DISREGARD ANY REFERENCES TO THE THREADLOCKER THIS WAS A MISTAKE ON MY PART AND SHOULD BE IGNORED. THANK YOU

Disclaimer: If at any point and time during this procedure you doubt your ability to finish the project please get assistance.


First off Lets start with the tools your going to need for this procedure.

1. Drop Light/Flashlight
2. Tire Iron and Lug Lock Key (if applicable)
3. Car Jack
4. Jack Stands
5. 17MM Socket/Wrench
6. Large C-Clamp
7. Steak Knife or Small Flathead Screwdriver
8. Red Thread locker
9. 8MM Allen Wrench

Reccomended:

1 Pair of Mechanix Gloves
2 Lengths of Ratchet

http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/tools.jpg

Step 1: Jack up car and place jack stands accordingly. (See owners manual for jacking and jack stand points.)
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step1.jpg

Step 2: Remove Wheel
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step2.jpg

Step 3: Turn wheel with caliper towards outside of car.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step3.jpg

Step 4: Remove dust cap from allen bolt.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step4.jpg

Step 5: Remove Allen Bolt
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step5.jpg

Step 6: Remove caliper mounting bolts. Remove Caliper (Note: (WARNING) DO NOT let caliper hang from brake line.)
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step6a.jpg
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step6b.jpg

Step 7: Open Caliper.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step7.jpg

Step 8: Remove Anti Rattle Springs (or M Springs if you prefer)
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step8.jpg

Step 9: Remove outside pad. (Note: DO NOT remove inside pad (pad against brake piston) yet, it will help you in the next step.)
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step9.jpg

Step 10: Now take your c-clamp and place one side against the pad and the other against the bolt on the back of the caliper, tighten clamp to press the piston back into the caliper (Note: DO NOT press on piston directly, it could damage it.)
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step10.jpg

[TXMazdaSpeeder]

Step 11: Now you can remove that other pad.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step11.jpg

Step 12: Ok folks, now look at the back of your old pads. You’ll see some backing plates, transfer them to the back of the new pads. (Here is where the steak knife/flathead comes into play, I had to use the knife to pop the backing plates off the old pads.)
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step12a.jpg
(by the way those wires to the left are the anti rattle springs you removed earlier.)
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step12b.jpg

Step 13: Install the new pads the same way you removed the old ones.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step13.jpg

Step 14: Install those anti rattle springs.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step14.jpg

Step 15: Close caliper and reinstall the allen bolt you removed earlier. Reinstall dust cap.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step15.jpg

Step 16: Put some red thread lock on both caliper mounting bolts.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step16.jpg

Step 17: Mount caliper back onto mounting bracket and tighten bolts down.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step17.jpg

Step 18: Reinstall wheel and torque lug nuts to proper specifications. (See owners manual for proper torque specs.)
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step18.jpg

Step 19: (THE LAST ONE!) Take a quick trip around the block at a low speed and test out your brakes before you get out on the highway at 75mph and realize you forgot to put a pad in or something of the like. (Could turn out a bit bad.)

http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step19.jpg

[mazdadan]

Excellent Writeup. Just an FYI for people.....if you are not changing the rotors, you don't have to remove the caliper mounting bolts. All you have to remove is the 8mm allen screw.

[TXMazdaSpeeder]

Originally posted by mazdadan
Excellent Writeup. Just an FYI for people.....if you are not changing the rotors, you don't have to remove the caliper mounting bolts. All you have to remove is the 8mm allen screw.

i found it easier (you dont have to be a contortionist) if you remove the caliper, i understand some people have had problems with removing the caliper though so do whatever feels comfortable to you.

[mazdadan]

Yeah, there really is no right or wrong way to do it.....as long as there aren't parts left over in the end :)

[TXMazdaSpeeder]

<dumbass>What's this thing do? Eh guess we dont need it.</dumbass>

[gjmoreo]

EXCELENT WRITE-UP!

you just saved me money ... where can I send half of my savings to? paypal? home address?

J/k but thanks!

[Kooldino]

Damn, when I did mine, I don't think i took those metal plates off my old pads. What are they for?

Also, I don't recall having to unscrew an allen screw...but I hope I'm wrong about that.

[TXMazdaSpeeder]

im really not sure what the purpose of them is but i do know your supposed to transfer them, thats the one thing i found these brakes have in common with normal disc brakes. by the way the rear are totally different. i may have to write a how to in them tonight as well.


by the way you can send your money to.....:D

[mazda03speed]

The metal pads are shims aren't they? I thought they helped in preventing the brakes from squeaking

[Kooldino]

Originally posted by mazda03speed
The metal pads are shims aren't they? I thought they helped in preventing the brakes from squeaking

DAMMIT, that's why my brakes are squeaking! What's the PN on that? Bueller?

[DooMer_MP3]

Ok, one thing I don't understand on this HOWTO. When you C-clamp the inside pad and the piston bolt, how does that allow you to remove the inside pad (being that its clamped!) ???

Mazdaformance front/rear pads include the new mounting plates and "M-springs" it seems you can reuse these (at least once) so where can you get OEM pads ONLY?

Thanks for the writeup. I need to order my pads...

Chris

[cbcbd]

Ok, one thing I don't understand on this HOWTO. When you C-clamp the inside pad and the piston bolt, how does that allow you to remove the inside pad (being that its clamped!) ???
The clamp is used to push the piston in the caliper back so you'll be able to fit the caliper over the new pads. He is using the old pad there just as a flat base to push against the piston, otherwise you'd have to push on one of the sides of the piston -the piston is hollow, so you can't just push at the center. After the piston is pushed back it will stay pushed back, you can then remove the clamp and the pad.


Good write-up, here are some more tips on that:

-Before removing the caliper, take out the first clip in the brake line so you can move the caliper around more.
-It's easier to get to the 2 bolts that hold the mounting support (the thing that holds the actual brake pads and rotor in place) if after removing the allen screw that holds the caliper to the mounting support, you just swing the caliper up and then push it back to separate it from the mounting support.
-The squeaking from the brakes is probably because you didn't use brake grease. The Hawk pads I have already have shims built into the pad and I can't reuse the old ones. Kooldino, you have Hawks, right? So just grease it up like the manual says and see if that works.

I attached the service manual directions, it's a good guide and has torque specs.

[TXMazdaSpeeder]

if anyone needs a quicker answer im on AIM almost 24/7 @ BlackFSDET

[schambach]

Great stuff and pictures, I am going to do it myself now. I've been spending so much money on services I've decided to do it myself. Do you know of any manuals, like Chilton's or Hayne's for a 2001 Protege? I bought the front brake pads for $20.00 and Mazdadealership wanted $150.00 are they insane????? or what?
Again, I want to thank you for the motivation you've given me.

[snowman4us]

Fuck...im trying to take of the Fucking allen screw and i cant do it....it pissing the off so bad....why whould mazda use an Alllen screw, its not like we are working on RemoteControlled cars hear...every car i ever worked on has a norman bolt/nut, none of this allen shit...

[TXMazdaSpeeder]

Fuck...im trying to take of the Fucking allen screw and i cant do it....it pissing the off so bad....why whould mazda use an Alllen screw, its not like we are working on RemoteControlled cars hear...every car i ever worked on has a norman bolt/nut, none of this allen shit...
whats a norman bolt?
(silly)

[snowman4us]

took me like an hour to do my brakes after i went to my friends house to grab an 8mm allen wrench....seriously made me feel like i was working on my RC car...
i got the Hawk Street/Race pads, and they are AWSOME compared to stock....my stock pads had Cracks in them from overheating i belive, kinda blew me away.

[Fishrule]

You rock, TXMazdaSpeeder. (rockon) This how-to saved my bacon. If you hadn't gone to the trouble to take the pics and write up the instructions, I'd have had my car on a flatbed, headed to the dealer right now. Instead, I'm washing up after successfuly changing my pads and rotors. Big thanks. (drinks)

[KD7000]

This writeup is pretty good, but I have to question the spec for red Locktite on the caliper bolts. That stuff is (theoretically) non-service removeable, so you'd need to heat the bolts with a blowtorch if you ever wanted to take 'em off again.

Does Mazda actually specify red? If so, that's wacky. I could see possibly blue Locktite if you really needed something...

-Brian

[DrummerJim50]

Great stuff and pictures, I am going to do it myself now. I've been spending so much money on services I've decided to do it myself. Do you know of any manuals, like Chilton's or Hayne's for a 2001 Protege? I bought the front brake pads for $20.00 and Mazdadealership wanted $150.00 are they insane????? or what?
Again, I want to thank you for the motivation you've given me.


I got a shop manual - the same one the dealers would use - on ebay for my 2003 Protege for like $10 or $15. They usually have them for all years of Proteges and they're on a CD in pdf form. Really awesome guide - it tells you how to do anything and everything - from replacing the timing belt to electrical schematics. Granted, it's not an idiots guide, meaning it tells you what to do but now always exactly how to do it, but it's detailed enough that anyone who's used tools could figure it out. Don't waste your time with those Chilton's manuals when one like this is available. If you really wanted to get all 1140 pages printed into a book you could have Office Max do it for like $50 (I priced it out). cbcbd attached a thumbnail of a brake schematic - that is from this shop manual.

[TXMazdaSpeeder]

This writeup is pretty good, but I have to question the spec for red Locktite on the caliper bolts. That stuff is (theoretically) non-service removeable, so you'd need to heat the bolts with a blowtorch if you ever wanted to take 'em off again.

Does Mazda actually specify red? If so, that's wacky. I could see possibly blue Locktite if you really needed something...

-Brian
i've never had a problem braking red locktite loose

[Auzzie_Mp3]

thank you jeff...these instructions are perfect for my new rotors and pads im buying soon.

[KD7000]

i've never had a problem braking red locktite loose
Then you're not cleaning the bolt and nut (or threaded receiver) before you applied it. Red Loctite applied correctly should require a torch... or at the very least, a huge-ass breaker bar.

I still think that Red is really excessive for caliper bolts. Until someone can point out where Mazda says to use it, I think it's questionable advice. If there's some documented proof that it's necessary or recommended, I'll happily retract my statements.

-Brian

[TXMazdaSpeeder]

Then you're not cleaning the bolt and nut (or threaded receiver) before you applied it. Red Loctite applied correctly should require a torch... or at the very least, a huge-ass breaker bar.

I still think that Red is really excessive for caliper bolts. Until someone can point out where Mazda says to use it, I think it's questionable advice. If there's some documented proof that it's necessary or recommended, I'll happily retract my statements.

-Brian
i just know i had heard alot of people's horror stories about losing caliepr bolts so i wanted to make sure that didnt happen on mine, the red might be a tad excessive i guess but mine came off just fine last night when i changed my front pads again.

[Myk]

Great How To, I wish people would stop throwing huge money to dealerships and see how easy it is to do the work yourself.

One question, you should lube the calipers/sliders right? Any tricks, ideas or is is straight forward?

[DrummerJim50]

Great How To, I wish people would stop throwing huge money to dealerships and see how easy it is to do the work yourself.

One question, you should lube the calipers/sliders right? Any tricks, ideas or is is straight forward?
Get some sil-glide from napa and rub it all over the caliper slides. Easy as that - you really can't screw it up.

I just did all 4 pads and rotors a few weeks ago and it was pretty easy. The rear brakes stumped my friend and I until I got out my shop manual and realized there's an allen screw to retract the caliper. Was thinking about doing a how-to but I didn't have a digital camera to take pics.

[TeamPlayers]

^^Yeah someone should really do a write up on the rears. It took me 2days to do my rear pads. I have never seen a car with the little set screw, not even on my Evo.

I got some pics of the drivers side rear caliper. First pic is with the bolt and the second is without the bolt exposing the set screw. You will need a 14mm wrench to take off the first bolt and I think the set screw is 4mm (i think). Once you pull the bolf off you need to unscrew the set screw untill it stops. I wont come out so dont try to bring it out. Once you get the new pads on push the set screw all the way in until it stops but dont put a gurilla grip on it. Just till it stops.

Hope this helps someone cause it sure wouldve helped me and save me alot of pain.

[MP3-E]

^^Yeah someone should really do a write up on the rears. It took me 2days to do my rear pads. I have never seen a car with the little set screw, not even on my Evo.

I got some pics of the drivers side rear caliper. First pic is with the bolt and the second is without the bolt exposing the set screw. You will need a 14mm wrench to take off the first bolt and I think the set screw is 4mm (i think). Once you pull the bolf off you need to unscrew the set screw untill it stops. I wont come out so dont try to bring it out. Once you get the new pads on push the set screw all the way in until it stops but dont put a gurilla grip on it. Just till it stops.

Hope this helps someone cause it sure wouldve helped me and save me alot of pain.

Would this cause the piston not wanting to push back in? I'm trying to do my rear brakes right now and I cannot push in the piston AT ALL! It wont budge.

[TeamPlayers]

That is the exact reason why they wont go back. I broke a c-clamp (cheap one) before I found that screw.

Like I said follow the above post and you should be good. But make sure you dont put a monster grip in the set screw when you put it back in. Turn it till it stops and then back it out just alittle.

[TeamPlayers]

Also might want to adjust the ebrake screw inside the car when you are done. 3-4 turns should be good

[MP3-E]

THANKS MAN! thats a big help :)

[MP3-E]

Ok, I got everything put back togeather. But when I went to take it for a test drive I couldn't back out of my garage... I could move a little but I had to give it a lot of gas.

I think it could be 1 of 2 things or maybe both.


Like I said follow the above post and you should be good. But make sure you dont put a monster grip in the set screw when you put it back in. Turn it till it stops and then back it out just alittle.

About how far should I back it out? I did about half a turn.


Also might want to adjust the ebrake screw inside the car when you are done. 3-4 turns should be good

Where is this located?

Thanks again!

[DrummerJim50]

The ebrake screw is right next to the ebrake handle. Just lift out the plastic piece around the handle and you will see it. You may or may not need to adjust it - after I did the rear brakes in my car the adjustment screw wouldn't tighten enough so my ebrake didn't work for about a week - my rear calipers self adjusted after a week.

I would just back it out about a full turn so the car drives normally. Your e-brake probably won't work, but the caliper will self adjust. I explained it more in detail to someone else - look at this thread from when I did my brakes before: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=89477.

[MP3-E]

Ok, I took it out for a drive and I have a lot of resistance on the brakes. I loosened up the ebrake screw quite a bit just to see if that would help and I didn't notice much difference. The brakes were smoking when I got back. (nervous)

I'm not sure what the issue could be. Do you think it could be the set screws on the back of the brake assembly is too tight?

[DrummerJim50]

Did you loosen the screw on the backs of the rear calipers? The ebrake screw is just for minor adjustments so the ebrake lever is in the right position when it's engaged.

Loosen the screw on the backs of the calipers quite a bit so there's definitely no resistance. It will self adjust after a week or so, and the ebrake probably won't engage fully until it does self adjust, but at least you won't burn up your new brakes.

Sorry if my last post wasn't clear enough on this.

[MP3-E]

Did you loosen the screw on the backs of the rear calipers? The ebrake screw is just for minor adjustments so the ebrake lever is in the right position when it's engaged.

Loosen the screw on the backs of the calipers quite a bit so there's definitely no resistance. It will self adjust after a week or so, and the ebrake probably won't engage fully until it does self adjust, but at least you won't burn up your new brakes.

Sorry if my last post wasn't clear enough on this.

Yeah I did this lastnight and it helped quited a bit. Thanks for all the help. :)

[TeamPlayers]

MP3-E I apolozie man I feel like I gave you bad advice. When I was finished with mine the E-brake would come up with no effort. So I adjusted the screw in side the car, and the screw behind the caliper I turned all the way and and backed it out about 1/8 of a turn. Well I guess not all cars are going to have the same problem. Once again if I gave you bad advice I do apologize.

[MP3-E]

MP3-E I apolozie man I feel like I gave you bad advice. When I was finished with mine the E-brake would come up with no effort. So I adjusted the screw in side the car, and the screw behind the caliper I turned all the way and and backed it out about 1/8 of a turn. Well I guess not all cars are going to have the same problem. Once again if I gave you bad advice I do apologize.

Hey, don't worry about it. I got it all figured out! Now the info is here for the next guy who needs it.(2thumbs)

I actually had the screws(the allen wrench adjustment) on the back of the callipers WAY too tight. I just backed them off and the found out the e-brake would come up with no effort like you said, then I just adjusted the e-brake screw. ALL GOOD!

[Mplvan]

Thanks for the how to, it really helped me last night on my P5. Louie(hi)

[Roywhitep5]

Excellent Writeup. Just an FYI for people.....if you are not changing the rotors, you don't have to remove the caliper mounting bolts. All you have to remove is the 8mm allen screw.

is that allen screw some kind of calibrating thing like on the rears?

[DrummerJim50]

is that allen screw some kind of calibrating thing like on the rears?
Nope that's just to remove that slide pin so you can rotate the top of the caliper. The allen screw in the rear is just for the parking brake.

[Roywhitep5]

are there anit rattle springs in the rear? just checked the front and didnt have any up there either. fucking midas!!

[Roywhitep5]

to get the rear piston to retract, do i have to use a c clamp?

[DrummerJim50]

you can use one if it's hard to depress, i just use my fingers and press one of the old pads down to retract the piston.
No...to retract the rear caliper you have to turn that allen screw on the back of the caliper (this has been talked about in this thread if you read back a little bit). You might damage the caliper if you try to use a c-clamp on it.

[roni]

Oops, I overlooked the fact that he was talking about the rear. I wil retract my statement.
No...to retract the rear caliper you have to turn that allen screw on the back of the caliper (this has been talked about in this thread if you read back a little bit). You might damage the caliper if you try to use a c-clamp on it.

[Roywhitep5]

loosten it all the way??

[DrummerJim50]

You only need to loosen it enough to get the caliper and new pads over the rotor....which probably doesn't mean loosening it all the way.

[AznXstazy]

hey guys i just changed my rear pads. and i read that someone too couldnt use the hand brake. does anyone know how long this will last? mines out for a bit. if i pull all the way it it stops some, but not enough to stop you from rolling down a hill. or do i have to adjust the screw? i think adjusting the screw would work faster, but im not sure and dont want ot screw anything up

[TeamPlayers]

It will adjust on its own. I messed with my screw and about 3days later the ebrake got real tight.

[DrummerJim50]

hey guys i just changed my rear pads. and i read that someone too couldnt use the hand brake. does anyone know how long this will last? mines out for a bit. if i pull all the way it it stops some, but not enough to stop you from rolling down a hill. or do i have to adjust the screw? i think adjusting the screw would work faster, but im not sure and dont want ot screw anything up
Give it up to a week to completely self adjust. After that, adjust the screw as necessary. The screw doesn't adjust all that much--it shortens the cable a little bit mainly to adjust the height of the e-brake handle but won't do much if the rear brakes themselves are out of adjustment.

[AznXstazy]

o ok thanks, after a day without the hand brake, i drive about 50 miles or so a day, and i can alrdy feel the hand brake startin to tighten.

[KaliCali]

Are the MSPs different? Cuz i'm not seeing this alen screw anywhere.

[DrummerJim50]

Are the MSPs different? Cuz i'm not seeing this alen screw anywhere.There's a regular screw covering it....you first have to remove that to get to the allen screw. Look in the shop manual if you can't find it....it has a pic.

[KaliCali]

from the picture posted compared to my car is totally different. There are no bolts behind the caliper =T

[TeamPlayers]

There are two different kind. I cant remember how to do the other one but there are 2 different kinds of rear brake calipers for the 3gen Protege. I called the dealership and asked the mechanic.

[KaliCali]

n/m.. i just found out... On MSPs you need a tool called the Piston Adjuster Wrench... Sigh... crazy ass brakes =T

[JasonKilpa]

Great How To. I used it this weekend when changing the pads on my ES. Thanks

[TXMazdaSpeeder]

n/m.. i just found out... On MSPs you need a tool called the Piston Adjuster Wrench... Sigh... crazy ass brakes =T



o.O great now that i have an msp i ahve to buy an extra tool? somehow i doubt this, i'll look when i change my wheels out this week.

[KaliCali]

If you wanna do what I did. I took some Pliars and went at it.. lol... You'll understand when you look at em'.

[6speed]

Anyone have trouble getting the rotors themselves off?

My front rotors won't budge at all, even once both pieces are off (Forget their names, the caliper and it's opposing piece of metal)

On my last car, once those were off, the rotor was just loose on the lug screws. These are solid tight. Even a bit of leverage doesn't move them at all. Is there something I can't see holding them on? The center nut visible clearly isn't the issue, and nothing appears to be holding it on from the back either.

Help would be greatly appreciated.

[DrummerJim50]

take a hammer to them.....sometimes they rust on. hopefully you weren't going to reuse them

[6speed]

K, ill try that...got new brmbos so don't care about them.

[roni]

Saturate them with a penetrant and let it sit for 15 minutes. Get a bolt that is long enough and has the correct thread pitch so that it threads into that hole towards the center section of the rotor, and tighten it down. If that doesn't break it loose all the way use a rubber mallet (or a hammer if you don't mind hearing loud metal on metal).



Anyone have trouble getting the rotors themselves off?

My front rotors won't budge at all, even once both pieces are off (Forget their names, the caliper and it's opposing piece of metal)

On my last car, once those were off, the rotor was just loose on the lug screws. These are solid tight. Even a bit of leverage doesn't move them at all. Is there something I can't see holding them on? The center nut visible clearly isn't the issue, and nothing appears to be holding it on from the back either.

Help would be greatly appreciated.

[6speed]

Ok, I pounded on it quite a bit... and nothing budged. I have Liquid Wrench sitting on it for about 45 minutes...

and I figured out what that screw hole was for and found a bolt that was the right size and thread pitch, but completely stripped the threads off the bolt until the bolt was just rotating...

I put the new pads on it and put everything back together for now... gonna try again monday.

Any other ideas, let me know. First car I have done the brakes for that has this stubborn of rotors, and have done brakes frequently enough (more than 1 per year on average) that I am confident about normal things. Just hoping I am not missing something. (Like the others were missing that hex screw for the rears)

Thanks

[roni]

Ok, I pounded on it quite a bit... and nothing budged. I have Liquid Wrench sitting on it for about 45 minutes...

and I figured out what that screw hole was for and found a bolt that was the right size and thread pitch, but completely stripped the threads off the bolt until the bolt was just rotating...


Ouch. Sorry to hear about your dilemma. I don't know what to tell you. I guess you managed to crossthread that bolt hole. I just hope you didn't damage the threads on the rotor too badly.. Are you 100% sure that was the right thread pitch and that the threads weren't damaged to begin with? Do you have another bolt you can try? Good luck, sorry I can't be of any more help.

[DrummerJim50]

Just keep doing what you're doing. Use some penetrating oil and beat the hell out of it. If you can hit the back of it easily, do that, otherwise use a solid rod or piece of metal to hammer the back of the rotor. Rotate the rotor between hits to loosen it all the way around. I've done lots of brakes and hammering it was usually the only way to solve it (although usually it's drum brakes that are the bitch). I work at a service center too - sometimes we just get a sludge hammer and beat the shit out of a rotor or drum to get it off. Put a little anti-seize between the hub and the new rotors - that will help in the future.

[6speed]

No, the threads on the rotor are not cross threaded... they are fine. I think the bolt I had was aluminum, as it just smoothly stripped the threads off the bolt, leaving the rotor alone.

Good to know about the more 1st hand information... should be able to get it done today.

The new rotors are cadium plated, though not sure if much of that will get rubbed off against the hub over time, though it should protect them pretty well.

[MP05]

Subscripton

[Volley2six]

Okay...so I've removed the caliper and the bolt behind the piston to expose the set screw. I've tried to unscrew it and I can feel the set screw stripping. I'm nervous to keep trying because I don't want to strip it totally, but that's the only way to get the piston to retract enough to put the brake pads in. Any ideas?

[DrummerJim50]

Okay...so I've removed the caliper and the bolt behind the piston to expose the set screw. I've tried to unscrew it and I can feel the set screw stripping. I'm nervous to keep trying because I don't want to strip it totally, but that's the only way to get the piston to retract enough to put the brake pads in. Any ideas?Strange that would happen. When I did mine the allen screw gave me almost zero resistance, and pulled the piston back immediately. You won't be able to retract it any other way - the allen screw is the only way - if you push in the piston with a clamp you'll probably destroy it. Only suggestion I would have would be to put some penetrating oil on it if you can (I don't think that would hurt it?). If that doesn't work you could try to take apart the whole caliper (instructions in the shop manual) to figure out what's giving you resistance......although to do this you would have to turn the allen screw clockwise (this will push the piston out all the way until it is disconnected) to release the piston to disassemble it, if you can do that.

[Volley2six]

Yeah, this is bad...it's basically a circle now since it's been stripped so badly. And of course the clouds have rolled in and it's about to rain. This is very bad....

[Volley2six]

(hand)

[Volley2six]

So the car is still outside, waiting for a miracle. I guess I'll have to have it towed to some brake place that can help me. I don't know what else to do. I wouldn't be suprised if I need a whole new caliper.

[DrummerJim50]

Did you try to take apart the caliper to see why the screw won't turn?

If I was you, I'd go down to Advance Auto Parts and buy a new caliper and replace it yourself (unloaded calipers usually aren't more than $50-60, and are fairly easy to replace)......I'm sure that would be cheaper than having it towed and then having a shop check it out and fix it.

[Volley2six]

I'm not going to take it apart. Doug (Cbcbd) by the good grace of God has an extra rear left caliper, so we're going to switch them tomorrow. Crossing my fingers!

[evilmonkeyMSP]

how do we get the rotors off?

[evilmonkeyMSP]

can anyone give a little write up on how to get the front rotors off? This will be my first attempt at brakes so I'd like to have all of my basis covered

[Volley2six]

The rotors come off easily. They're being held on by the calipers. The directions on the first page tell you how to get the calipers off. After that, they just slide off (unless they're rusted on there, then take a rubber mallet or hammer and just hammer them off)

[evilmonkeyMSP]

oh ok then..... easy enough :) wasnt sure if that giant nut in the center needed to com off :D




The rotors come off easily. They're being held on by the calipers. The directions on the first page tell you how to get the calipers off. After that, they just slide off (unless they're rusted on there, then take a rubber mallet or hammer and just hammer them off)

[roni]

no. never, if the rotors don't want to come off easily, you can thread a nut into the small hole in the rotor itself to break it off.

just so you know, there are two large bolts that you should remove for the caliper to come off. do not start loosening the nuts/bolts attached to the brake lines, if you leave them in place, you will not need to bleed your brakes after just changing rotors/pads.. take some zip ties and zip tie the caliper out of the way. DO NOT let the caliper hang from the brake line.

and good luck. if you have any questions along the way, post them up on here and someone should be able to walk you through.


oh ok then..... easy enough :) wasnt sure if that giant nut in the center needed to com off :D

[evilmonkeyMSP]

how about some info on replacing the brake lines w/ steel braided ones & easiest way to bleed the brakes?




no. never, if the rotors don't want to come off easily, you can thread a nut into the small hole in the rotor itself to break it off.

just so you know, there are two large bolts that you should remove for the caliper to come off. do not start loosening the nuts/bolts attached to the brake lines, if you leave them in place, you will not need to bleed your brakes after just changing rotors/pads.. take some zip ties and zip tie the caliper out of the way. DO NOT let the caliper hang from the brake line.

and good luck. if you have any questions along the way, post them up on here and someone should be able to walk you through.

[roni]

well you should use a flare nut wrench to remove the line. then replace it with the new line. bleeding isnt hard if you have a person to help you. start at the pass side rear, then drivers side rear, then pass side front, then drivers side front (the key is to start at the furthest point from the master cylinder when bleeding). i have the other person press and hold the brake pedal when i open the lines to bleed. even if the pedal seems tight, you need to continue until the air bubbles stop. make sure you keep the fluid level full enough in the reservoir while you are bleeding so you dont reintroduce air into the system. after you start the car, the pedal will feel more normal again.
how about some info on replacing the brake lines w/ steel braided ones & easiest way to bleed the brakes?

[evilmonkeyMSP]

what if I'm flushing the brake fluid? just keep the resivior full w/ the new fluid?




well you should use a flare nut wrench to remove the line. then replace it with the new line. bleeding isnt hard if you have a person to help you. start at the pass side rear, then drivers side rear, then pass side front, then drivers side front (the key is to start at the furthest point from the master cylinder when bleeding). i have the other person press and hold the brake pedal when i open the lines to bleed. even if the pedal seems tight, you need to continue until the air bubbles stop. make sure you keep the fluid level full enough in the reservoir while you are bleeding so you dont reintroduce air into the system. after you start the car, the pedal will feel more normal again.

[nautical2086]

very good how-to helped me tons doing my brakes, what does the red thread lock do i didnt use it.

[evilmonkeyMSP]

its basically a "glue" for the bolts...you should put it on there, only costs a few dollars. You dont want to take the risk of one of those caliper bolts coming out due to vibration




very good how-to helped me tons doing my brakes, what does the red thread lock do i didnt use it.

[nautical2086]

gotcha.

[TXMazdaSpeeder]

its basically a "glue" for the bolts...you should put it on there, only costs a few dollars. You dont want to take the risk of one of those caliper bolts coming out due to vibration

thats why i used it, i had heard horror stories of people losing caliper bolts and damaging wheels.

[nautical2086]

originally i dont think those bolts have that on there

[TXMazdaSpeeder]

originally i dont think those bolts have that on there

no but they are factory torqued so they dont need it.

[evilmonkeyMSP]

actually I beleive they do, if you looked at them closely when you took the out, there was a greenish residue on the bottom half of the threads, on mine atleast




originally i dont think those bolts have that on there

[girth]

Just did my rotors and pads on all 4 corners of my Mazdaspeed Protege and wanted to post in here about doing the rears (the info is already out there, but not in this thread - be nice to have it all in 1 spot).

For the rears on the MSP there is no "set screw" type deal like the regular proteges and you don't even need an allen wrench or anything, so they're actually easier than the fronts. All you do is take the caliper off (easy, just 1 bolt plus the e-brake bolt) and then you'll see that the piston on the rear is a "screw-type" piston with a >< indentation in it. Rather than use a C-clamp to compress the piston like did you do with the fronts, just take a needle-nose pliers and screw the piston in by twisting it clock-wise. It turns somewhat hard so make sure you have a good grip on the pliers and it's a good pair of pliers. Mine took 1 and 1/2 full turns in order to get the clearance needed to slip it over the new pads. You'll need to turn it in 1/2 turn (180 degree) increments because the >< needs to line up with the notches on the back of the brake pad. That's pretty much it though -- they're actually really easy because no retarded "hidden" set screw to mess with.

If anybody has any questions about doing their brakes, just post or PM me and I'll try to help as well while it's all fresh in my mind.

OH, and DON'T use red thread-lock on your caliper bolts! If applied correctly you WILL need a torch to get them off again. Just tighten them up as much as you can (with a hammer and wrench since you can't get much leverage in there by hand) and you'll be fine.

[bigcc63]

are the m-springs extremely important.................

[evilmonkeyMSP]

yes, and they are so simple to put back they shouldnt even be questioned




are the m-springs extremely important.................

[CHICO2003]

I wasn't able to get my dang rotors off... wailed the shit out of them but no luck. I settled for replacing the pads. My quesiton has to do with the metal shims as well as brake grease.

Those metal shims popped off easily enough, I suppose, but in trying to transfer them back to my new pads I was basically left with a situation where I'm merely hoping they'll stay put long enough for me to slide the caliper back into place. (they didn't snap on in any way) Since it was a pretty tight squeeze, this approach didn't work so well (the shims just slided with the caliper as it was closing in) so I finally just said 'screw it' and moved on. any thoughts on this? the pads I bought, while not having a metal shim, do have something that is exactly the same size and appears to be a very hard plastic. the stock pads didn't have anything like this so perhaps these act in the same way.

Lastly, break grease. If and when I get the new rotors on, I understand I need to greese these puppies up. (correct me if I'm wrong on that) but what about the pads themselves? the can of break grease I bought doesn't have any directions at all so I'm sort've confused where this stuff is supposed to go. I also bought some brake cleaner. I'm assuming that's not necessary for new breaks.... but should I use it on anything else while i'm at it?

THanks guys...

[DrummerJim50]

I never used the shims in my car and never had a problem. Just keep beatin the shit out of the rotors with a small sludge hammer....keep rotating the rotor to get all the way around and use a metal bar between the hammer and rotor if that gives you better leverage. Use the brake cleaner for just about anything except your car's paint....it's great stuff.

What part of the rotor are you planning to grease up? The grease is typically made for the slide pins of the caliper....clean them up with a rag, brake cleaner, grease them and put it back together. Sometimes it's used for the edge of the pads so they slide better too. You shouldn't have to grease anything else....everything else should be cleaned thoroughly with brake cleaner.

[CHICO2003]

cool... thanks Jim

[TXMazdaSpeeder]

im gonna remove the threadlock bit from my how to for contreversy's sake.

[hyperboarder]

I threadlocked because the car was sans rear caliper bolt when I got it, leading to confusion, frustration, and a destroyed rotor. Anyway, great write up, just put on the Brembo Cross Drilled/Slotted rotors with a full set of Satisfied pro ceramic pads, lovin it so far (the brake in consisted of hard high speed braking, it was a blast). A quick tip, when pulling out the allen screw, we couldn't get one off. My solution, slip an 8mm box wrench around the allen wrench, and you get a lot more torque (you can also use a cheater bar if needed). That was the trick that got it off.

[spork47]

Unbelievable.

I just broke the allen bolt / lower slider pin on one of my calipers.

Ugh. I swear, I loathe our P5. Nice car to drive, but a sheer medival torture device to wrench on.

[TXMazdaSpeeder]

time for a mazdaspeed brake upgrade

[Pmpkinhead]

Great info, Thanks!!!

[YuYuRena]

Anybody got some good hints on how to loosen the allen bolt? I can't get it to move.

Also, I know this sounds stupid, but loosening the bolt is left from engine looking out or outside looking toward engine?

[Swerny]

For the rears on the MSP there is no "set screw" type deal like the regular proteges and you don't even need an allen wrench or anything, so they're actually easier than the fronts. All you do is take the caliper off (easy, just 1 bolt plus the e-brake bolt) and then you'll see that the piston on the rear is a "screw-type" piston with a >< indentation in it. Rather than use a C-clamp to compress the piston like did you do with the fronts, just take a needle-nose pliers and screw the piston in by twisting it clock-wise. It turns somewhat hard so make sure you have a good grip on the pliers and it's a good pair of pliers. Mine took 1 and 1/2 full turns in order to get the clearance needed to slip it over the new pads. You'll need to turn it in 1/2 turn (180 degree) increments because the >< needs to line up with the notches on the back of the brake pad. That's pretty much it though -- they're actually really easy because no retarded "hidden" set screw to mess with.



Can anyone help me with this.
It's -17 degrees outside with the windchill and I'm trying to do this in my driveway.
I have made like 20 turns of the piston, and still can't get enough clearance to clear the new pads.
WTF am I doing wrong?
The C-clamp doesn't work either since as Girth said, our pistons "screw" in.
Thanks guys.

[Swerny]

Managed to get clearance after at least 50 turns and losing the shim on one of the pads.
Starting side #2 now.
If anyone has any tips, please let me know.

[nautical2086]

keep on the old pad around the piston, then use the c clamp, it worked for me no the few cars I changed brakes on, i dont see why it wouldnt work.

[Swerny]

apparently the pistons on the MSP are different than the ES or P5.
It's a screw tipe (according to Girth). I tried the C-clamp method (which worked on the front BTW) but no dice.
I got them done though, test drive was OK.
Hopefully they don't catch fire on my drive to work tomorrow! (boom07)
Thanks

[DrummerJim50]

Some cars require (or at least highly suggest) a tool that clamps and turns at the same time...like THIS (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40732) one that I have. If you don't have one of those do your best to push and turn at the same time. I never had a MSP but maybe that's how it works.

[90210brandon]

Thanks guys for the write ups!

After 128000 km's I replaced the front brake pads, only, and that was the easiest job ever.

Thanks Mazda engineers!

Dion

[chuyler1]

According to this thread... http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123638763&page=1
...bad things can happen if you don't lube the guide pins before reinstalling them. Since I used this how-to as a reference for changing my pads/rotors I came back to see if I missed something.

Lubing is mentioned on page 3 but not in the original post. Could someone please update it?

Perhaps that is why my rear pads tend to stick sometimes. Should both pins be lubed or do you only have to lube the one you remove?

[Pmpkinhead]

Lube everything except the pad surface! Use a small blade or screwdriver to gently scrape the guides clean or buy (recommended) the kit with new guides.

[ChopstickHero]

Lube everything except the pad surface! Use a small blade or screwdriver to gently scrape the guides clean or buy (recommended) the kit with new guides.

yeah, pretty much lube everything. it's a good idea to lube those sliders at least once a year or more if you want to be safe. I used some of that Valvoline SynPower synthetic lube. super slick stuff. also, it's a good idea when you do a brake service (not just changing pads/rotors) to clean out the caliper assembly of any excess dirt.

[DrummerJim50]

Lube everything except the pad surface! Use a small blade or screwdriver to gently scrape the guides clean or buy (recommended) the kit with new guides.
Coat everything with brake parts cleaner and scrape the gunk off the calipers. It can't hurt to buy all new hardware and rubber boots from the dealer...it's only like $10

[protur03]

hey whats up guys im new here and i already got so much help with installs, that is great info on the brake install, thanx

[PseudoGeek]

I had never changed brake pads before on any car - it took me hours to do the left side, using "instructions" from the Mazda shop manual. Then I read / printed this and studied the photos and the right side took about half an hour. The suggestion from MazdaDan that the calipers stay on the wheel was exceedingly helpful (enguard) - I did the second one that way and will always do it that way in the future since the thing is bolted in place and not wiggling around.

One note - I did not have to transfer the backing plates from the old pads to the new ones - I bought OEM replacement pads from the Mazda dealer (after reading a helpful post on another section of this site) which came with the backing plates installed. I put some brake grease on the back side of them as directed by the Mazda shop manual; no noises so far.

[improte5]

the title says "How To: MP3 Front Pad/ROTOR Change (No 56K) (UPDATED)"... in all 8 pages of this thread I couldn't find anything about the rotor replacement (great work on the pad replacement though!)... and I did a search and was unable to find anything other than this thread as far as rotors is concerned.

Is there a lot more instruction needed to get the rotors off? I guess these instructions will help me to get the rotor off and then I'll stumble through the rest.

[evilmonkeyMSP]

nope...once you get the caliper off & its "dangling" from the car lol you just give the back of the rotor a tap w/ a rubber malet to get it off if it doesnt just come off...

[chuyler1]

Actually, you can give the front top of the rotor a whack...and the bottom will come loose, then give the bottom a whack and the top will come loose, etc...

I'm saying this because it will save you the 2 minutes that I used trying to tap the back of the rotor...there just ain't any room to get leverage.

[improte5]

u guys rock - thnx peeps!

[khaosman]

I had a stupid question! But figured it out when I actually took the things apart.

[Dave_x]

My friend offered to lend a hand with changing my front brakes and said I needed two things to do the job right. New hardware and an adhesive to keep the hardware and the pad together.

Do I need new hardware? The car has 66K miles in Michigan weather. Am I better safe than sorry by picking up a set at the dealership or are they not really needed?

Doesn't the M Spring act to keep the pad and hardware together and not an adhesive? TX's How To makes no mention of using anything other than the Spring to keep things in order.

[DrummerJim50]

My friend offered to lend a hand with changing my front brakes and said I needed two things to do the job right. New hardware and an adhesive to keep the hardware and the pad together.

Do I need new hardware? The car has 66K miles in Michigan weather. Am I better safe than sorry by picking up a set at the dealership or are they not really needed?

Doesn't the M Spring act to keep the pad and hardware together and not an adhesive? TX's How To makes no mention of using anything other than the Spring to keep things in order.
Probably only $8 for new hardware...probably don't need it but it definitely can't hurt.

[dstone]

My front rotors and rear drums are 4 years old, and they are not visibly worn-out where the pads touch them, but the rotors are rusted between the plates and the drums are rusted on the outside.
They are the original rotors and drums that came with the car, when I bought it new in 2002.

Should I change the rotors and drums or just the pads???

[chuyler1]

The rust should come off with a steel brush. If you just replace the pads you should have the rotors turned/refinished. A shop can do this for you pretty cheap.

[Mick]

Just a reminder. Those caliper bolts are pretty damn tight. DO NOT use a 12 point socket. Use only six, and if at all possible, avoid using an open ended wrench. A 6 point good quality socket is the best. I first tried a Craftsman open ended 17mm to loosen the bolts (for convenience) but the wrench flexed and rounded the bolt a tiny bit. It hardly did anything at all actualy, but it freaked me out when I heard it slip. A socket and a relativly short breaker bar did the trick.

[Outkastedpro]

wow 2 yrs later and it's still going strong...once again thanks for all of the pix every little $$$ saved on simple stuff like this can go into the back for a tubro kit!!!

[6speed]

I kinda feel funny coming back to this thread a few days shy of exactly 2 years after first posting to it.

I think I am to the point of replacing everything on the left rear, but wantto make sure before I dump the money.

A few days ago, I noticed a grinding sound, and realized it HAS been 2 years since I last changed my brakes, my previous streak was 8 months, so I figured it was past time for new pads all around. I bought the pads yesterday and replaced the right front fine,left front seems like the bolt the caliper hinges on is/was seized. I lubricated it up over a few hours and it moves, though with effort. Enough to get the pads replaced without any other issue. However the inner pad on the right front had a hard metalic line across it, in-line with the rotor spin. I can't find any scoring or flaws in the rotor, so going to keep an eye on that corner.

Anywho, I came to the left rear, and the caliper there is also seized, though definately more than the front left. I pulled the whole caliper off, and that is when I found that the outter pad was at about 60%, but the inner pad had no friction material left, rotor was just polishing the back plate.

(I have since found quite a bit on an issue with this that had a TSB released to cover it. Just 97K miles, so no warranty)

I figured I would have to replace the caliper, since it was seized so badly, but then I pretty much solidified that when I stripped the adjustment screw behind the piston, the bugger wouldn't rotate at ALL. And I remember how freely it turned before.

So I know i have to replace the rotor from the horrible scoring that it was subject to, and I believe I have to replace the caliper and caliper brace now as well. Just thought I would check here to see if anyone has any other ideas I should try.

[chuyler1]

Something is up with that pad wear. Rather than risk ruining a brand new rotor I would go ahead and replace the caliper also.

[6speed]

Yeah that is what I was thinking.

I am fairly certain the unusual pad wear is the same thing that I have read about over the past few days. Alot of comments on forum boards, TSB boards, etc, about the rear pads wearing down MUCH faster than the fronts on 01's and 02's. Apprently it was fixed for the 03's, and I am thinking if I replace the calipers on both sides, it should be with the 03 calipers (assuming they would fit) to avoid the problem from occuring again.

Or it might just be that the caliper seized a while ago, and the only braking force i have been getting is from the 1 pad.... scary. Especially how I drive.

[chuyler1]

I'm more inclined to think the caliper just can't retract...Every time you hit the brakes hard it would compress the rear pad and just leave it there causing the entire caliper and pad to heat up which might explain why the adjustment screw was so difficult to move.

[Pmpkinhead]

I just had left rear "uneven" pad wear with all OEM pads and hardware. I replaced everything about 14 months ago. I found that all of my synth brake grease was GONE and the pad was not sliding freely. They must slide back and forth or you will have problems. I doubt your caliper is bad unless you can somehow prove it. I am gonna start re-greasing everything but the face of the pad every 6 months!

367 (mp3yellow

[6speed]

Aside from the seized caliper then, is there an easy solution to the stripped set screw on the back of the piston?

Probably just buy a new caliper after work.

[DrummerJim50]

You can go to a tool store and get a special bit that will dig into that screw to get it out HERE for example (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&pid=00952154000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Bolt-Out%2C+Taps+%26+Dies&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes). Unloaded calipers are relatively inexpensive anyways...at napa semi-loadeds are only $38 for fronts (although $69 for rears)...may as well just replace 'em.

[hotrippr]

Good write up. Have to do the wife's corrolla tomorrow. Gonna take some fluid out before compressing the piston, not sure if anyone mentioned this but if you have been keeping all fluids filled then you will have too much fluid, so take some out to avoid spilling on the engine, then top it back off after completion with NEW fluid.

[SiL3nTKiLL]

i CANNOT for the life of me get the bolts that hold the caliper on the front rotors off.

i will try a breaker bar tommorow, but there is another bold that is in the way so i cant get the socket back there :/

any other ideas?

[hotrippr]

i CANNOT for the life of me get the bolts that hold the caliper on the front rotors off.

i will try a breaker bar tommorow, but there is another bold that is in the way so i cant get the socket back there :/

any other ideas?
Spray em with liquid wrench like mad, and let em soak tonight. Mine came off after a big squeal but were not that hard. The breaker bar will get em off, try different extensions, angled wrenches etc for that hard to reach one. But really if you let em soak they should be doable. Try a bar that can fit over a wrench for that hard to reach one.

[SiL3nTKiLL]

Spray em with liquid wrench like mad, and let em soak tonight. Mine came off after a big squeal but were not that hard. The breaker bar will get em off, try different extensions, angled wrenches etc for that hard to reach one. But really if you let em soak they should be doable. Try a bar that can fit over a wrench for that hard to reach one.
hmm, ill have to try everything possible then lol

its just that top bolt which has other bolts in the way, i could probably get the lower one off if i let it soak, i can get a box wrench to fit on the top one, but no leverage on it :/

[hotrippr]

hmm, ill have to try everything possible then lol

its just that top bolt which has other bolts in the way, i could probably get the lower one off if i let it soak, i can get a box wrench to fit on the top one, but no leverage on it :/
Are you sure you are loosing the correct bolts? I think they are 17mm. Remember righty tighty lefty loosey, but if you are behind the bolt then it seems like the opposite. Sorry I am not trying to diss you or anything..just want to make sure.

What car do u have?

[SiL3nTKiLL]

Are you sure you are loosing the correct bolts? I think they are 17mm. Remember righty tighty lefty loosey, but if you are behind the bolt then it seems like the opposite. Sorry I am not trying to diss you or anything..just want to make sure.

What car do u have?

u know what.....i might be turning it the wrong way. DAMMIT lol

if im doing the passenger side, facing the rotor, the screw is on the back side, i would turn it right which would technicly be left in the screw perspective correct?

i just gotta find out how to get that dang top one off

[hotrippr]

hopefully that was it, good luck, keep me posted.

[SiL3nTKiLL]

def will. its soaking in WD40 right now lol.

i just feel like such an idiot :(
ive done this on my tC b4, but it was alot different and i wasnt hungover lol
if in fact i am turning the wrong way, i could prolly figure out someway to get some leverage on the top one

[SeminoleMan]

Great how-to. Did my first brake job on my 4 year old P5 and it was a piece of cake. Like a couple have mentioned, just remove the 8MM hex and swing the caliper up. No need to unmount the entire caliper assembly. :)

[misbehave]

How do I know if my brake rotors needed replacing or not?
How do you tell?

[amsgator]

How do I know if my brake rotors needed replacing or not?
How do you tell?

when slowing down if it feels like your brakes are "pumping" (warped i believe) i think you can feel them too to see if they need resurfacing or replacing

[evilmonkeyMSP]

its also gauged by the thickness of the rotor. Have you ever had them turned before?

[chuyler1]

I never bother turning them...that is a sure way to have them warp. I just replace the pads and take it easy for the first few hundred miles until the pads break-in to the grooves in the rotors. I will use 2 sets of pads per set of rotors. Pads last about 30-50K (non-aggressive driving) so my rotors last 60-100K.

As mentioned before, when rotors heat up too much they warp. If you are on a smooth highway, hit the brakes moderately hard. If the car and steering wheel begin to shudder that usually means they are warped. You can also feel it in slow stops but you must be sure that the road is flat and you aren't feeling ruts or other imperfections in the road surface.

[Woody54]

great write up, i did mine today. nothing was even all that difficult. one question though. How do i get the caliper off to paint it? do i just take it off once i have it dangling or does that piece come apart further?

[evilmonkeyMSP]

if you take it completely off you will have to bleed your brake lines.... you can paint them while they are on....

[Woody54]

if you take it completely off you will have to bleed your brake lines.... you can paint them while they are on....

so i should just cover up the rotors and tape over the pads then while the caliper is still on? that just seems a little awkward to me (although i really don't want to have to bleed the breaks)

[evilmonkeyMSP]

then thats the only way to do it lol...

[Pmpkinhead]

so i should just cover up the rotors and tape over the pads then while the caliper is still on? that just seems a little awkward to me (although i really don't want to have to bleed the breaks)

Pull the pads and pad guides out. You have to grease them anyway when you put it back together. (grease EVERYTHING except the face of the pad). Do not paint the area where the pad guides sit. There isn't a lot of room and the pads may bind after installation. Buy some brake grease B4 you start. If you grease the area where the guides sit, the paint won't stick there! just wipe it off when everything is dry.

367 (mp3yellow

[TXMazdaSpeeder]

I'm glad to see this has helped so many people. My MP3 R.I.P.

[clicknext]

The brake fluid reservoir cap needs to be open before you retract the piston, right?? Or else you might screw something up like blow a seal and cause a leak? Noticed this was missing from the steps, was that intentional or is it unnecessary?

[amsgator]

yes. there cant be any pressure when u retract the piston. removing the cap prevents it from pressurizing when more fluid is added

[Tasty]

This is a great thread, but I fail to see the section that tells you how to remove the actual rotor. This seems to only address PADS.

[meGrimlock]

take the bolt in the trunk that holds the scissor jack in place. put that in the tiny hole of the rotor and turn clockwise. you may need to use something with leverage. you will hear a "ping" noise when the rotor loosens up from the hub.

[Lewis7789]

Great How-To on replacing the pads. I installed some new Hawk pads on my P5 today and they are working great. Thanks!

[TXMazdaSpeeder]

tasty, when you remove the caliper bolts and pull off the caliper the rotors just slide off.

[chapsme]

Hey guys, great thread... I am replacing the brakes for the first time on my ES, and I am having a hard time finding a 5 lug rotor... nothing fancy, just a regular 5 lug rotor. I bought some from auto zone, but when I opened, I realized they were 4 lug... (doh) Anyone got a part number or something for this, so I can tell these people what to look for? Advanced Auto would need to ship them in... trying to find something in Stock... thanks in advance.

[~JoJo~]

does this work the same for speed3? I am about to do mine but wanted to make sure it doesn't turn into a weekend project if more tools or supplies are needed.

[TXMazdaSpeeder]

Chaps: you probably arent going to find anything in stock, most auto parts stores have an overnight option that wont cost youmuch more if at all anything. They had to order all the parts for mine from dallas and they came in the next day.

JoJo: I dont know if this is the same on the speed 3 because i havent encountered one yet, but most disc brake setups are the same so this should still mostly apply.

[chapsme]

Just an update... it seems the previous owner, a sales guy at Mazda upgraded the wheels with 2003 equipment. Autozone had the right parts, they were just listed for an 03 Protege.

[poundNP5owner]

Listen you guys are studs who did this in a short time. This is by far the hardest car(p5) to change brakes in that I have ever dealt with including old school drum brakes. That hidden allenhead bolt in the rear is straight up retarded.

I wanted to add something to the rear brakes that I didn't see mentioned here, might be specific to the wagons.

After you loosen the 10mm bolt/slide for the caliper you won't be able to open it all the way to switch out the pads because the parking brake line and brake line will not let you open it all the way. You have to remove the bolt holding the parking brake line, which is right next to the HIDDEN allenhead bolt. Then you need to go to your brake line follow it to the frame holder of the line. It's held on their with a horseshoe clip, with a flat screw driver and hammer just tap the horseshoe clip off. This will give you enough line to move the caliper all the way.

These job took me freaking hours because it was all new to me, but this thread was great in helping me figure it out. Kudos to TXmazda speeder and everyone else who takes the time to make HOW to's.

[clicknext]

Question, how did you guys remove the caliper mounting bolts? My ratchet/stocket is too big and won't fit, it's hitting an adjacent bolt on the side.

[worldglider]

poundNP5owner (http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/member.php?u=57178), you said it! I spent nearly $50 in quarters for the cuss jar and the dog left the garage multiple times for fear of his life. I have placed an even more evil curse on the !@cker that stole my 94 Civic Si as that car never gave me the problems this MP5 came to me with.

Point is I didn't raise this MP5 and the previous owner's maintenance is questionable at best. So now I deal with six years of rusted and seized bolts that you deal with on every car of a certain age.

TX, thanks for the shot of the M-Clips. During my spat of rage there was no way I was going to keep one side together to see how to put it back together. I won't say where they are now, but I'll have those little buggers back proper tomorrow.

I contemplate the DYI of the rear breaks. Filing down bolts to make bolts again isn't as fun as it sounded years ago. At what cost will inner peace be worth? The cuss jar alone is an hour's worth of work at the local garage.

Painting was fun though, therapeutic really. I got a small PAIL of caliper paint from AutoZone that comes with a brush. Just brush on as much as you want and all that ugly rust (I wired brushed first of course) is covered up. You'll be able to cover everything anyone will ever see and no one will be the wiser you have a hidden screw behind a screw on the dark side of the caliper!

[clicknext]

Another question.... did anyone find that on the outside pad, the little metal tab that sticks out prevents the pad from fitting into the caliper? The oem mazda pads didn't have that on that particular side.

I've got the posi quiet ceramic pads, but my previous aftermarket pads were the same, and I cut the tab off.

Just wondering what you guys did with those.

[worldglider]

The pads that came off my MP5 (just got it from used car dealer) had what you describe with the tab only on one pad. My aftermarket ones had the tab on both pads but they fit just fine for me. What did happen is the tab shifted (probably in my fit of rage) on one and caused the metal glider to push into the rotor. SCREECH!!! Fixed that right quick like.

[worldglider]

See my previous post on fit of rage, but essentially I took a hammer to a socket and off they came after soaking the bolts for about an hour in WD-40. In fact, the hammer was the best tool I used all day! Yep, the bolts will round a bit and I've got to take a file to the rear caliper bolts on my next try, in order to make a bolt a bolt. Try cussing!

Still contemplating the shop down the street doing the dirty deed for the rear breaks. The LR come off fine but the RR is possibly not a DIY street job.

[GIJana]

What happens if you let the caliper hang from the break line.

[meGrimlock]

What happens if you let the caliper hang from the break line.
maybe nothing, maybe the brake line cant support the weight of the caliper and you have brake fluid all over you. i'd play it safe

[TXMazdaSpeeder]

yeah considering how easy it is to supprot the brake caliper, risking having to replace one of more extra parts you didnt intend on buying just seems kind of dumb.

[dkarthik]

Hi everyone,
I tried to replace my rotors and pads today on my 01 protege LX 2.0 and the rotor just would not come off... (uhm) I tried everything WD 40 sprayed all over, tapping it with a mallet, Just did not budge.... any suggestions?... im really desperate here, need the car running by Monday to go to school.
Thanks in advance
Dushyant

[Pmpkinhead]

What about leaving the lugnuts a little loose and letting the tire hit the ground slowly (with the jack) or worse case actually move slowly back and forth (push or under engine power) with the same condition and all the wheels on the ground.

367 (mp3yellow

[meGrimlock]

Hi everyone,
I tried to replace my rotors and pads today on my 01 protege LX 2.0 and the rotor just would not come off... (uhm) I tried everything WD 40 sprayed all over, tapping it with a mallet, Just did not budge.... any suggestions?... im really desperate here, need the car running by Monday to go to school.
Thanks in advance
Dushyant
use the bolt holding the scissor jack in the boot in place. it should be a brass bolt with a T handle. turn the bolt into the extra hole clockwise until you hear the rotor make a "ping" noise as it breaks loose.
-meGrimlock

[dkarthik]

use the bolt holding the scissor jack in the boot in place. it should be a brass bolt with a T handle. turn the bolt into the extra hole clockwise until you hear the rotor make a "ping" noise as it breaks loose.
-meGrimlock

I dont have any extra holes in the rotor!... (scratch)

Ill try somethin tonight... If it don't come off today, To the stealership it is... (bang)

Thanks guys

[meGrimlock]

I dont have any extra holes in the rotor!... (scratch)

Ill try somethin tonight... If it don't come off today, To the stealership it is... (bang)

Thanks guys
i've never tried it, but PB blaster is supposed to be good
-meGrimlock

[Pmpkinhead]

I just finished replacing my front pads and hardware (oem kit) and I have a lingering question in my mind. Does the "worn pad squealer" go on the inside or outside pad? I placed them with the inside pads.

I have 82,000 miles and I had "even" front brake pad wear, both rotors look pretty good too. The excessive amount of brake pad grease I apply is paying off I guess.


367 (mp3yellow

[Madmot]

If my memory is right, the squealer goes on the piston side (inside). Yeah grease is all we need there...

[Pmpkinhead]

If my memory is right, the squealer goes on the piston side (inside). Yeah grease is all we need there...

Excellent! (ughdance)

[CTpro5]

just finished installing the brake pads on the front and try to run the car without the wheels and i hear the pads rubbing on the rotor is that normal?

[meGrimlock]

just finished installing the brake pads on the front and try to run the car without the wheels and i hear the pads rubbing on the rotor is that normal?
you'll hear brake noise as the pads get worn in. infact, the EBC greenstuff pads i got were loud and noisy all the way till replacement time. EBC called it an "aeroplane" noise. i just put new hawk pads and theyre much quieter but still more audible than OEM pads.

[evilmonkeyMSP]

MSP Rear Pad replacement

Ok, so I'm not sure if its even necessary or if anyone needs it but I changed the rear pads on the MSP the other weekend and went ahead and took some better pics of the process since its a tad bit different than the other proteges...

Step 1: Remove cap from brake fluid reservoir

Step 2: Loosen lug nuts and jack up car and put on jack stands (if you don't know how to do this stop now and take the car to a mechanic lol)

Do not pull the e-brake! Use blocks behind the front wheels just in case.

Here's what you're looking at (this is the drivers side rear)

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c76/evilmonkeymsp/P5170132.jpg

Step 3: Remove brake fluid line clip on the back side of the strut and take notice of the clip and the lines position (use a screwdriver and hammer to tap it out(dont nick the line!)

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c76/evilmonkeymsp/IMG00134.jpg

Step 4: Remove the e-brake clip the same way you removed the brake fluid line and take notice of the clip and the lines position.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c76/evilmonkeymsp/P5170133.jpg

Step 5: Pull on the e-brake line to give it enough slack to be able to be removed

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c76/evilmonkeymsp/P5170134.jpg

Step 6: Loosen the caliper bolt and slide out enough so that you can rotate the assembly (dont pull it all the way out)

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c76/evilmonkeymsp/P5170135.jpg

Step 7: Rotate the caliper assemblt to expose the pads

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c76/evilmonkeymsp/P5170136.jpg

At this point I hosed everything down with brake cleaner to clean it all up...

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c76/evilmonkeymsp/P5170137.jpg

Step 8: Remove the retaining spring (only 1 on the rears) and save it for reassembly noting its position

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c76/evilmonkeymsp/P5170139.jpg

Now comes the fun part....this can take a little muscle

Step 9: take your piston retractor tool and put it on a 3/8" drive socket wrench. With your left hand hold the caliper assembly and with the other hand use the wrench to spin the piston clockwise to retract it till its flush with the assembly. (this will allow you to slide the assembly back over the new pads)

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c76/evilmonkeymsp/P5170138.jpg

Step 10: lube the brake pad tracks on the brake assembly and the ends of the pads which slide in place with brake lube and install new pads (dont forget your retainer spring!!!!)

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c76/evilmonkeymsp/P5170140.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c76/evilmonkeymsp/P5170141.jpg

Now you just put everything back together....

Step 11: Roll the caliper assembly back over the new pads until you're able to push the slide pin back in

Step 12: tighten the slide pin back down

Step 13: reinstall the e-brake cable into place and reinstall the clip (should push in with a little bit of force.)

step 14: put the brake fluid line back in place and reinstall clip (should push in with a little bit of force.)

Joo are done with this side (yippy) repeat steps on the other side and then:

- Put brake fluid reservoir cap back on. (If it was removed)

- Pumb brake pedal to restore pressure. (otherwise panic can occur on first use)

and you're good to go

[CTpro5]

EXCELLENT Write-up!!! Thanks.

about that piston retractor tool,i thought we can use an allen key to turn the piston back in?

[evilmonkeyMSP]

My instructions are for the MSP only as it does not use an allen key to retract the piston :)
EXCELLENT Write-up!!! Thanks.

about that piston retractor tool,i thought we can use an allen key to turn the piston back in?

[misbehave]

Thanks for the nice pics and the write-up!

How do I remove the whole assemble so that I can replace the disc too?

[evilmonkeyMSP]

theres bolts that mount the entire caliper...take those off.

[mildsalsa]

thanks for the write up and pics completed f/r rotor and pad replacement, question I have now is my rear left side is getting so hot it smokes and has a kind of chemical burn smell, any1 have any type of possible diagnosis.

[evilmonkeyMSP]

caliper is siezed?

[mildsalsa]

Not sure, everything seems normal except for the extreme heat and the rotor had some white looking powder above and below the contacting point of the brake pad.

[mildsalsa]

Problem solved fixed the seize, the lil piston in the caliper was crazy stuck but mucho lube and tugging;), fixed it all up, also sum how I made the brake line look like a noodle,. What a noob I am, :)

[Stormtrooper77]

Addition to the most recent addition to the how to:

- Put brake fluid reservoir cap back on. (If it was removed)

- Pumb brake pedal to restore pressure. (otherwise panic can occur on first use)

[evilmonkeyMSP]

ah yes, figured most would know that but I added just in case

[SleepyMSP]

thought I should make my little addition for the MSP rear calipers...you don't have to have the brake tool to retract the piston. I did mine with a 21mm wrench and a 10mm wrench through the end to form a T. use the box end to match up with the groove in the piston and it works just the same.

useful for ppl like me you don't have access to one before they start LOL

[Julia]

After reading through the wonderful how-to and everyone's suggestions, I decided to try changing my Protege's front brake pads myself. I watched someone do this a few years ago and I think he didn't remove the calipers -- he just swung them up and out of the way, somehow. After removing the allen screw, I can only move the caliper up about half an inch or so. Then it stops as if it came in contact with a stop. Any suggestions on how to swing it out of the way? I didn't see any posts addressing this particular problem. Thanks very much!

[gjmoreo]

<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"><meta name="ProgId" content="Word.Document"><meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 11"><meta name="Originator" content="Microsoft Word 11"><link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5Cmoralesg%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cm sohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} span.EmailStyle15 {mso-style-type:personal; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-ansi-font-size:10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size:10.0pt; font-family:Arial; mso-ascii-font-family:Arial; mso-hansi-font-family:Arial; mso-bidi-font-family:Arial; color:windowtext;} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> Depending on how old your calipers are...the piston may be seized partially. If this is the case then the piston won’t move much, if at all.

Your options are to rebuild the caliper or better yet, just replace it. Had to do both of mine after 90k ...

[Julia]

Thankyou!

[msp03.5]

Going to be doing my brakes soon. Subbing for great info!

[msp03.5]

Ok so I am on the passenger rear and when I slid back the caliper there was no retaining spring???? So do I buy one from mazda or an auto parts store? This is weird because I am the original owner and the rear brakes have never been touched ( I neglected the rear brakes soo bad) Also I have uneven brake wear. Is this common or is that do to not having the retaining spring? the back part of the pad where the piston presses the brake to rotor is metal and the front side is pretty good? Hopefully someone can chime in.
Albert

Also my two front piston boots are torn. Can I buy a new boot to replace or do I have to get new calipers? I have uneven brake wear on fronts and pass. side rear. My driver side rear is the only one wearing even. Does it sound like a good idea to just purchase all new calipers :(

[msp03.5]

So if anyone looses that rear Vpin or anti rattle spring on the rear here is the part#
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u226/jdmsp/mazdavpinpartforrearbrakes.jpg

[damaster]

Thanks to this how-to I changed all my rotors and pads for under $150 (Centric Premium black-top rotors from CarPartsWholesale, Bendix CQ ceramic pads from RockAuto wholesaler close-out). Took me all weekend because I was taking my sweet precious time, removed every caliper, cleaned and painted each caliper. Since I took my brake lines out I then had to bleed my brakes which was well worth the trouble.

End result:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=169075&stc=1&d=1279119381

[Bufyglien]

images not working and allen bolt is jammed :(

[FishJunkie]

Excellent instructions. First time changing brakes myself. With this post and the shop manuel; changing pads, rotors, and painting calipers was easy. I didn't have a impact gun, so breaking the lock tight and rust took some pounding with a mallet but everything eventually came off.

http://www.floptical.net/mazda/service_web/

[mig360mBJ]

Great HOW-TO

[Bigchris800]

sub