installed ptp internals

[mazdaspeed32007]

installed my ptp fuel pump internals and i gotta say they are the difference i needed. i was running cdfp internals so it was expected that these were naturally going to run better anyway. besides that my fuel pressure is spot on and ready as soon as i shift or punch it. i havent hit below 1650 and hold a solid 17-1800 to redline.

the awesome thing about these internals is they reuse the factory retainer. my cdfp seat bent to shit even with the stock srping. the quality looks to be much better and hope the quality lasts the test of time. any questions ill try to answer them for you.

[mr_mazda329]

Nice. This is good to hear. PTP makes some good stuff. And they warranty them to never fail.

[Sport6]

Thats sweet, Good to hear that and if I need to pick some up in the future I will probably be going with them.

[mazdaspeed32007]

its slightly more expensive but i cant risk spending another 250 on internals. plus the lifetime warranty was worth the other 50 bucks.

[bykeryder4life]

I've heard nothing but good things about these kits. Nice to see another review.

[mazdaspeed32007]

just ordered a windage tray and bs delete from them as well. we'll see how this install goes in a few weeks.

[Darth Vader]

I just ordered these internals, not wanting to wait for the turnaround and headache of pump core stuff.

Now, I've built plenty of engines but, I've not done this job before, having just bought this car.

What did you lube them with?

Were the instructions clear?

Any particular snags I should look out for?

I've seen a few install threads but, always good to ask someone with it fresh in their mind.

[bykeryder4life]

first clean them in gas and then lube them with some light oil. You just want enough lube so that when you put stuff together (like sliding the plunger into the bore) you dont get them scratched or stuck against eachother, esp on first startup. Once you start the car and fluids start flowing it will be good. If you can, wear latex gloves so acids and stuff from your skin dont get on the internals. if the instructions arent clear, look in the how to section here or over on msf forums and you can find some good info.

[AutoEuphoria]

first clean them in gas

I heard this wasn't a good idea...better to clean them with brake cleaner.

And +1 to PTP...I ordered the pump assembly and it's worked great so far!

[Darth Vader]

The thinh about brake clean is it swells o rings and gaskets. If there are any in there it can make getting stuff back together a bitch. I planned to clean and lube them with kerosene, which is a light oil. How's that sound?

[mazdaspeed32007]

ive done a number of tese and i promise i know this method works very well.

wear gloves as to not cause unwanted corrosion to the internals. spray each internal (even the stock parts reused) with brake cleaner as to insure a fresh surface. allow them to dry for a min or two.

when reassembling the parts keep a small cup of oil next to your work station. i used some 10-40 motor oil. i made sure each part was coated with oil before sliding each part back together.

the thing with these internals which is great is it reuses the stock retainer for the piston. the old internals hang on the the retainer pretty well. i put a rag on the stock piston and set the open end of the retainer downward and gave it a few rapps with a hammer to knock it free.

now...a few tips for the noob on doing this.

once you remove the relay for the fuel pump and run the car out of gas make sure your motor cools down. the heat rebuilds pressure in the lines and you WILL get sprayed with gas. also, when removing the hard line under the fuel pump there are two nuts. the top on needs to be secured at the fuel pump so it doesnt spin. when restarting the car make sure you reinstall the relay for the fuel pump but dont start the car quite yet. turn the key to the on position and give it about 10 seconds to rebuild some of the fuel pressure. crank it until it turns once, do it one more time, then fire it up. you should see some unsteady fp numbers at first until your car reconginizes the new pressures. you may throw a CEL but more than likely you wont. watch your LTFT's after this to insure your still in a good range...within + or - 4%.

[mazdaspeed32007]

oh and when you use the torx socket on the fuel pump itself make sure you remove and install them back as equal as you can to make sure the piston and spring go in straight.

the hard line under the fp sucks to get in and out. make sure you dont drop the nut you unscrew. its not fun digging it back out from the bottom of the line i promise. good luck!

[tunersteve]

From what I've read, these seem to be the best performing ones out there, as long as you follow instructions. I may pick up a set in the future to help with additional fueling, but sounds like a solid product, and the price isn't really bad at all.

[08cosmic3]

I'm going to buy their pump and get the refund when I send them my pump. Still only $300, plus cost to ship my pump.

[mazdaspeed32007]

i was going to do the same but heard people had issues with the return....im not spreading rumors but i knew how to do it already so jst bought the internals.

[AutoEuphoria]

i was going to do the same but heard people had issues with the return....

I had no problem at all with the transaction, and my pump was pretty much not functional when I sent it to them. I actually expected them to reject it, but I guess it was good enough for them to rebuild.

[mazdaspeed32007]

awesome!!

[koston33]

This might be a dumb question, but why not just go fuel pump rather than just the internals especially if its cheaper. The only thing I can think is that it keeps the stock look.

[08cosmic3]

You're right.

[SallySpeed3]

Figured I would continue with this thread instead of starting a new one. When I first got these internals it was only to cover myself when it came time to get protuned, so I didn't really think of it as a "power mod" but I gotta tell you, I feel like my car is finally running at it's full potential (as full as one can run with an ots cobb tune) From the first drive I could tell the improvement. With a FMIC and this cold weather it's nice knowing that I can floor it without worrying about not enough fuel getting to the engine. While doing my 1st datalog I thought I was going wot but looking back at the info, turns out I was only at 70%. Thats how freaking hard my car was pulling. Definitely glad I went the internals route instead of the whole new pump. Would have had to wait for who knows how long to get my refund back, no thanks. For those worried about effing up the install, I think it's pretty fool proof. I myself was worried because I kept dropping the internals in my garage, and would then have to reclean them several times with brake cleaner, but just do as PTP tells you and you'll be fine.

[Darth Vader]

No matter what you do the throttle won't open much beyond 70%, that's pretty much WOT for these things, unless you go FT flash, which is a waste of time on stock turbo.

[SallySpeed3]

Ah yeah, no, it wasn't the throttle one I was reading, it was the other one that reads 99% when you're at wot, can't remember what it is

[msp3clutch]

hey guys, quick question, wha'ts really the main difference between the whole pump itself up graded and just having the internals upgraded alone???

[SallySpeed3]

hey guys, quick question, wha'ts really the main difference between the whole pump itself up graded and just having the internals upgraded alone???

I'm sure there are many technical differences but from what I've seen on "other" forums there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of a difference when it comes to the end product. Either way you'll get about the same psi. I think the biggest reason people go with the new pump route is simply so they don't have to worry about messing up the installation and I believe they come ready to go, no break in procedure.

[Darth Vader]

Ah yeah, no, it wasn't the throttle one I was reading, it was the other one that reads 99% when you're at wot, can't remember what it is

There's the actual throttle position and accelerator pedal position; the first is useful info, the second isn't.

You're still going to want to go easy for the first 100 miles or so on a new pump install, too. There's some fine tolerances in there.

Pressure is not the be all and end all of a pump install, the unmeasured component is volume. If you look at the pictures of the slugs in a CDFP stock for aftermarket, you can see a huge increase in volume per stroke as well. THIS is what primarily keeps your modified engine together, NOT just high pressure. You need the high pressure, too and this is hard to do, as pressure and volume are pretty much inversely proportional in a FP. This is why we can't use a regular electric gerotor pump in this car. For DI, it would have to be the size of a big can of tomatoes to move the volume required and still produce the pressure required and would suck the life out of the electrics of the car to run it.