need new struts and time to get timing belt service

[madsmartguy]

So I changed my oil yesterday, and noticed that there is oil on my two front struts. Are there recommendations for any struts if I'm only changing the front two, or should I get the stock ones?

Also, it's time to change the timing belt, (I just hit 105K), and am curious how much its supposed to cost. Thanks for the help.

[slavrenz]

So I changed my oil yesterday, and noticed that there is oil on my two front struts. Are there recommendations for any struts if I'm only changing the front two, or should I get the stock ones?

Also, it's time to change the timing belt, (I just hit 105K), and am curious how much its supposed to cost. Thanks for the help.

If it were me, I'd just change all 4 struts - the other 2 can't be far behind your front ones in terms of failing. Also, if you're not looking for performance upgrades, check out the KYB's or Monroe's on RockAuto.com

For the timing belt, you're gonna want to change your water pump while you're in there as well. Expect anywhere from $400 to $800 for everything, depending on where you live and if you have it done at the dealer.

[madsmartguy]

ok, i went to a local mechanic, and he said 300 for labor + parts including the water pump. I've never changed the water pump before, is it safe to assume that the mechanic is using mazda stock parts? Are there differences in water pump quality to look out for?

[EGTT91]

hmmm im in queens right now about to do an engine swap in the morning for mr god... i'm willing to do the work for u for $175 u buy the parts... pm me

[MaxPower]

ok, i went to a local mechanic, and he said 300 for labor + parts including the water pump. I've never changed the water pump before, is it safe to assume that the mechanic is using mazda stock parts? Are there differences in water pump quality to look out for?

No, he's probably not using Mazda parts. If you want Mazda parts, you'll have to request them or bring them in yourself (some mechanics won't install customer parts, however).

I'm not sure if water pumps actually vary in quality, but OEM is almost always best.

[EGTT91]

Yeah OEM is best, but i've had great luck with NEW aftermarket, not rebuilt units. So its really a matter of personal/shop preference

[slavrenz]

Yeah OEM is best, but i've had great luck with NEW aftermarket, not rebuilt units. So its really a matter of personal/shop preference

Exactly. Any OEM water pump you buy now for our cars is going to be rebuilt. For $300, there's no way he's using OEM parts, but neither did I when I changed my timing belt and water pump. I would just make sure that he guarantees his parts and labor for at least a year.

Yeah, I was quoted $650 from the Mazda dealership here, and $450-550 from two independent garages. Maybe Iowa is more expensive for auto repair :(

[P-Funk!]

And since you are replacing struts - why not lower her?

[Changed1MG]

I might get booed off the board for this, but I know this month PepBoys is replacing struts with 50% off labor right now through the end of October. It's a decent deal.

I wasn't sure if I should go ahead and get mine done, though. I just hit 80,000mi on my PR5 this weekend. She is riding kinda hard right now, but, didn't they always ride a bit hard? When are you supposed to change them?

[madsmartguy]

I'm not sure what the benefits to lowering are...I've heard it makes for a slightly stiffer ride--which is all good once i'm on the highway, but most of the local streets in queens are rough enough!

[P-Funk!]

If you go Eibach Pro they are progressive (plenty compliant until you get near the end of travel) so ride doesn't suffer. It does improve handling...

[EGTT91]

madsmartguy, PM me if you want me to do the T-Belt service for you, I go down to queens almost everyweekend to turn wrenches, got my boys garage over there too, lmk


I'm not sure what the benefits to lowering are...I've heard it makes for a slightly stiffer ride--which is all good once i'm on the highway, but most of the local streets in queens are rough enough!

I agree with you 100% you see how low my P5 is and OMG Queens/Manhattan/Bronx KILLLLEEED ME !!! it was so painful!

[nilsonov]

I changed mine when I noticed that 1) the bumps hit pretty hard and 2) when I accelerate through bumps the vibrations are not dampened, they just get worse. Also, at standstill, the car could be bounced quite a bit. The good shocks, in rear, for comparison, did not let me bounce the car around. It's an easy job with a good spring compressor. Couple of hours for both with basic tools.



I might get booed off the board for this, but I know this month PepBoys is replacing struts with 50% off labor right now through the end of October. It's a decent deal.

I wasn't sure if I should go ahead and get mine done, though. I just hit 80,000mi on my PR5 this weekend. She is riding kinda hard right now, but, didn't they always ride a bit hard? When are you supposed to change them?

[Psylence]

I changed mine when I noticed that 1) the bumps hit pretty hard and 2) when I accelerate through bumps the vibrations are not dampened, they just get worse. Also, at standstill, the car could be bounced quite a bit. The good shocks, in rear, for comparison, did not let me bounce the car around. It's an easy job with a good spring compressor. Couple of hours for both with basic tools.

Haha. Yeah, if you endlinks are made of butter. Otherwise have some sort of cutting tool or a blowtorch on hand. And some new endlinks.

[nilsonov]

What's up with this? I was just asking on another thread about replacing endlinks after I did my shocks and was told that everyone has major problems taking them off. I didn't take it off entirely, only the top connection is necessery to be removed for the shocks and that did come out like butter :) Maybe they weren't the originals or something, but that was a non-issue, and I live in NJ...salty winters.


Haha. Yeah, if you endlinks are made of butter. Otherwise have some sort of cutting tool or a blowtorch on hand. And some new endlinks.