COBB ATR Discussion thread

[daonly1around]

Cobb ATR discussion. that way people can post suggestions and post data logs to get suggestions and help?

[GoFast]

Cobb ATR discussion. that way people can post suggestions and post data logs to get suggestions and help?

Ok here you go!! Im leaving you to get this baby going

[daonly1around]

now i need my AP.. HAHA.. i just wanted something set for when i get mine in a couple months.. SOOO people, post up logs etc etc... even if you don't have ATR..

[mazdaspeed32007]

sometimes changing certain values a little can help a lot.

for a quick example....your car waits a certain amount of time between shifts to change from closed loop to open loop. this is known as the exit delays. if your fuel pump loses pressure after a WOT hard shift then it may not be your pump at all. changing these to lets say half the values will return the car to open loop faster allowing your vehicle to be ready for the WOT hard shift you dont do unless your on a closed course.....lol. but changing these values will change how your car reacts in part throttle or wide open throttle. it may run great at wot but be a little "bucky" in part throttle. to counter this you would need to mess with certain throttle load tables to adjust how the car reacts from part throttle to wide open throttle and the transitions between the two. if you read up on cobbs tuning guide it will help you a lot in tuning your car. if you have any questions after that then post them up. im sure a lot of people know their shit on access tuner. this is a tough ecu to adjust, it reacts a lot to very little. sometimes your better off getting to "kind of" where you want it rather than going for perfect. right now my a/f runs typically at 11.5 at WOT with no knock and 18-19 psi. my fuel pressure with my upgraded internals are usually good around 1700. theyve been acting up so im going to go with ptp's fuel pump. ive done all i could to try to correct the fuel problem and finally gave up saying its def my internals. if you ran the tune i had with my shitty internals you could possibly do damage to your pump or car because your car was running fine without the fuel change. its a constant fun being this "in tune" with your car. no pun intended.

[AutoEuphoria]

One question - the maps available from Cobb are all designed to run with a catted DP...stock or aftermarket. What changes should be made to account for a more free-flowing catless exhaust (dp and midpipe)? I am planning to get an AP this week, and would like to modify one of the 1.5 maps to work with my catless setup without causing overboost, running lean, etc. Talking more on the conservative side rather than all-out power.

[Mid_Life_Crisis]

I really want one of these things, but fate is conspiring to keep me too broke to buy one. Meanwhile, I have a question for those who are lucky enough to own one. Is there a map that allows you to set boost limits based on rpm?
The reason I ask is that there seems to be an issue with the rods in these cars when making too much power at low rpms. Back in the day I had a turbocharged Sunbird that was set up to not allow boost below 3000 rpm. I`m reasonably sure this was to preserve the bottom end and rods. Can the AP accomplish pretty much the same thing?

[8.5MS3]

I really want one of these things, but fate is conspiring to keep me too broke to buy one. Meanwhile, I have a question for those who are lucky enough to own one. Is there a map that allows you to set boost limits based on rpm?
The reason I ask is that there seems to be an issue with the rods in these cars when making too much power at low rpms. Back in the day I had a turbocharged Sunbird that was set up to not allow boost below 3000 rpm. I`m reasonably sure this was to preserve the bottom end and rods. Can the AP accomplish pretty much the same thing?

yes you can drop requested load in the lower rev range. My current tune targets 14psi, then 18 to smooth out boost spikes. peak tq doesnt happen till 3.5-4k.

[Mid_Life_Crisis]

Thank you sir. The more I learn about these, the more I want one.

[mazdaspeed32007]

you can do EVERYTHING in atr. i love it. if something changes in value for some unknown reason or if you change a part you can easily accomodate the engine with what it needs for that part. this was prob one of my most prize purchases. it helped me mod depending on what the ar needed. once i reached the cars fuel pump limit i knew there was something not quite right by just the butt dyno. so i watched all my parameters and sure enough for a second or two after a shift my fp was hitting 1300 psi. BAM new fp. (note: fuel pump didnt just appear. i had to buy it and wait for it to come in. noise was just for effect.) then i can work with atr some more and rip some more power with the new fp.

[8.5MS3]

you can do EVERYTHING in atr. i love it. if something changes in value for some unknown reason or if you change a part you can easily accomodate the engine with what it needs for that part. this was prob one of my most prize purchases. it helped me mod depending on what the ar needed. once i reached the cars fuel pump limit i knew there was something not quite right by just the butt dyno. so i watched all my parameters and sure enough for a second or two after a shift my fp was hitting 1300 psi. BAM needed new engine. (note: engine didnt just appear. i had to buy it and wait for it to come in. noise was just for effect.) then i can work with atr some more and rip some more power with the new fp.

fixed lol

[Mid_Life_Crisis]

BAM new fp. (note: fuel pump didnt just appear. i had to buy it and wait for it to come in.

I`m glad you clarified that. I was going to tell my wife about this amazing tool that automatically diagnoses the engine and teleports in replacement parts. Boy, would I have looked foolish!

[8.5MS3]

get the AP Mid Life, you wont regret it lol. what are your current mods?

[Mid_Life_Crisis]

get the AP Mid Life, you wont regret it lol. what are your current mods?

Pretty minimal.
MSCAI, Inlet tube, prototype Forge BPV, my own version of the Rotus8 shifter mod, motor mount, shifter bushings, boost gauge.
I want to push the boost up a little, but I want to do it right, and that means monitoring the results and tweaking things like timing and AFRs as necessary.
I also am of the belief that the original tune on these cars has to be very generic to run in a huge variety of environments and work for a number of different driving styles (with this car all would include the word aggressive, but the options are always, occasionally, and once in a while).
I want to tune for my particular intake/MAF, and push up the boost only in the upper RPMs. In addition, I would like to get rid of the overdone low gear steering angle induced boost limit. I might even reduce the overall boost at low rpms to reduce my tendency to spin the tires at stop lights. I just don`t want the nanny doing it for me.
Essentially, I want to make the car as stable as I can and redefine the power curve to suit my style better. It sounds like the AP can accomplish that.

[8.5MS3]

Pretty minimal.
MSCAI, Inlet tube, prototype Forge BPV, my own version of the Rotus8 shifter mod, motor mount, shifter bushings, boost gauge.
I want to push the boost up a little, but I want to do it right, and that means monitoring the results and tweaking things like timing and AFRs as necessary.
I also am of the belief that the original tune on these cars has to be very generic to run in a huge variety of environments and work for a number of different driving styles (with this car all would include the word aggressive, but the options are always, occasionally, and once in a while).
I want to tune for my particular intake/MAF, and push up the boost only in the upper RPMs. In addition, I would like to get rid of the overdone low gear steering angle induced boost limit. I might even reduce the overall boost at low rpms to reduce my tendency to spin the tires at stop lights. I just don`t want the nanny doing it for me.
Essentially, I want to make the car as stable as I can and redefine the power curve to suit my style better. It sounds like the AP can accomplish that.

yes it can. you'll have to do a lot of reading of the atr manual and testing/tweaking for what your looking for. I recommend getting a protune, they have access to more tables then we do in ATR. I know its more $$$ but gives me peace of mind. Also, the tuner i went to and I are in contact on almost a weekly basis making sure everythings working well

[mazdaspeed32007]

fixed lol

lol. no i cant even get to BAM. gotta start it first.

[8.5MS3]

lol. no i cant even get to BAM. gotta start it first.

lol was commenting on your other thread, sorry bout your troubles man. that sounds like a PCM problem. buddy of mine fried his doing a stereo install. sometimes it worked, other times it didnt. i would recheck all the TT wiring and make sure all the wires have good contact

[08cosmic3]

Thank you sir. The more I learn about these, the more I want one.

Best thing about the AP is your car won't die at 5500 rpm. It will pull all the way to redline.

I was out data logging yesterday in the cold air and man let me tell you, 18-19 lbs of boost with temps in the 30's makes my car insane. The AP will make you fall in love with the car all over again. Remember when you first drove it around with a grin from ear to ear, the grin will return.

[8.5MS3]

hahaha^^^^+1 my peak hp is at 6100 now and drops by 20hp at redline

[Mid_Life_Crisis]

I was out data logging yesterday in the cold air.

Another benefit I hadn`t thought of. When I go out blasting around back roads having fun with my car, I can call it something dignified and pretend I was just being responsible testing changes I made to my car. Yeah, I like it.

[mazdaspeed32007]

my car pulls crazy hard and the boost goes to and holds 20 psi. 30 degrees or so just opens this car up super silly style. my fmic stays so cold. my intake temp is near 40 degrees and my fmic is like....75. lol. my shits love it.

edit...it was 22 out tonight and my cars intake temp was 27 with a boost air temp of 46. sweeeeeet.

[Ninkumpoop]

My engine mods:
- HKS SRI
- COBB inlet pipe
- reworked K04 turbo
- TurboXS downpipe
- custom catless testpipe (just a 3" pipe)
- HKS CBE

I have an AP but not quite satisfied with the power gains. Can anybody who has a map designated for something somewhat close to what I have please share their custom map? I'm willing to pay for the map but I can't afford what tuning shops charge. Anyone willing to help me out?

[Dano2010]

Pretty minimal.
MSCAI, Inlet tube, prototype Forge BPV, my own version of the Rotus8 shifter mod, motor mount, shifter bushings, boost gauge.
I want to push the boost up a little, but I want to do it right, and that means monitoring the results and tweaking things like timing and AFRs as necessary.
I also am of the belief that the original tune on these cars has to be very generic to run in a huge variety of environments and work for a number of different driving styles (with this car all would include the word aggressive, but the options are always, occasionally, and once in a while).
I want to tune for my particular intake/MAF, and push up the boost only in the upper RPMs. In addition, I would like to get rid of the overdone low gear steering angle induced boost limit. I might even reduce the overall boost at low rpms to reduce my tendency to spin the tires at stop lights. I just don`t want the nanny doing it for me.
Essentially, I want to make the car as stable as I can and redefine the power curve to suit my style better. It sounds like the AP can accomplish that.

I have done exactly what you are referring to in regards to lowering my Throttle-Requested load in XX gear tables so as to limit wheel spin in 1-2nd gears. Works like a champ, exactly what a multi-stage MBC would do, and I also extended my boost taper in 3-5 gears, to the turbo’s limit of course.

You can tune power in two ways with this car and Cobb as well as I have decided to tune for "load" not boost. That way you tell the ECU you want 1.90 load at 5000 RPM and it does everything it can to reach that load goal. This is probably why boost is so inconsistent with these cars but I still like this tuning approach. Not even sure you can just tell the car I want XX boost to XX RPM. My buddy has a subie and they can tell their cars exactly what they want and boost in his logs has such a smooth taper and no spikes it is beauty. Maybe when I learn more I can get closer to that.

As far as I can tell, this ECU doesn’t seem to even look at the Boost target tables and it only looks at the [B]lowest values in the Throttle tables. It does read the Boost-fuel cut and Boost- Throttle Close tables however and I would suggest you use these per Cobb’s instructions to add safety measures to your tune. Throttle close first then fuel cut.

Sooo back to targeting load per gear…..you have to raise the Throttle-Requested Load Baro vs. RPM and Throttle- Requested Load A and C table values [don't know what the phuck the B table is for as the load values are WAAAY low, maybe for high BAT] to get the ECU to actually use the Throttle-Requested Load XX gear tables. I just used Cobbs Stage II MSCAI2 91 v105 map and modified my MAF curve and the above mentioned tables.

Then started running out of fuel so guess what's on order, PTP internals.

[Dano2010]

Anyone take the time to compair some of the Cobb maps to see what they are doing. Example: The Throttle- Req Load XX gear tables are actually lower on a TMIC map vs. without. Are they doing that because the TMIC gives you about 2PSI more boost per load value vs without one?? I know that is over simplifying things but can anyone with ATR/tuning experience confirm??

Thanks!

[Dano2010]

is this thread dead! Should I hop over to the Cobb site?(sleep)

[smoke_31]

I don't play with the ATR, but I can tell you people with upgraded intercoolers usually suffer from overboosting as you mentioned above. That would be a simple explanation as to why they would have lower load targets.

As for going to the Cobb forum, go ahead.

[Dano2010]

I don't play with the ATR, but I can tell you people with upgraded intercoolers usually suffer from overboosting as you mentioned above. That would be a simple explanation as to why they would have lower load targets.

As for going to the Cobb forum, go ahead.

Yes, you are right about that. The lower pressure drop and better flow of the upgraded ICs makes our turbo spool faster and produce more boost. I hit 25 PSI the other day in 4th and scared the shit out of me! Immediately let off the gas.

Thanks for the reply.

[mazdaspeed32007]

i have a fmic and my boost hits target and holds without any spike or loss. v105 stage 2 fmic 93 octane

[smoke_31]

i have a fmic and my boost hits target and holds without any spike or loss. v105 stage 2 fmic 93 octane

We were making reference to a person not running a map. An untuned car with TMIC consistently overshoots their boost targets.

The Cobb map is tuned to work with the FMIC. It should be holding your boost target.

[mazdaspeed32007]

well in that case...i agree.

[opt_ms3]

of course I'm just trying to help a dude out, and my post gets deleted. this forum is awesome.

[8.5MS3]

haha truth hurts

[GoFast]

of course I'm just trying to help a dude out, and my post gets deleted. this forum is awesome.

As you have been told before, if you want "help" by promoting another forum do it via PM.

[Dano2010]

We were making reference to a person not running a map. An untuned car with TMIC consistently overshoots their boost targets.

The Cobb map is tuned to work with the FMIC. It should be holding your boost target.

Not correct, I am running Stage 2 MSCAI2 93 TMIC v105.

Just FYI

[Dano2010]

P.S. I am spiking around 22.3 for less than .5 of a second then settling down to 20 then the taper starts down to 17 or so. Is that what you guys are seeing or is your max 20ish?

My boost guage [Prosport] was bouncing up to 25 which wasn't correct and was alarming me but when I was logging with the AP it shows around 22.3.

Thanks for the replies and if you have more thoughts please let me know. I guess I could just lower my load values and get rid of the 22 PSI spikes??

[Dano2010]

Here are my latest logs and disregard the DI pressure I have that resolved with a new PTP kit installed today and haven't made it thru the break in peroid to log more. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!!

[Dano2010]

Well that didn't work. Here is the log.

[Dano2010]

My engine mods:
- HKS SRI
- COBB inlet pipe
- reworked K04 turbo
- TurboXS downpipe
- custom catless testpipe (just a 3" pipe)
- HKS CBE

I have an AP but not quite satisfied with the power gains. Can anybody who has a map designated for something somewhat close to what I have please share their custom map? I'm willing to pay for the map but I can't afford what tuning shops charge. Anyone willing to help me out?

I am no expert by any means but I think the Stage 2 Cobb SRI map would work for the most part. If the Turbo XS a catted DP. If you are running catless you are going to have over boost issues that an OTS map can't resolve. With ATR you might be able to tune the overboosting out but that would be a question for someone more expreienced than I. You might find someone out there that can do an e-tune for you at less $$$ than a protune.

[SallySpeed3]

Somewhat off topic, but it does involve ATR. How long does Cobb usually take to e-mail you back about downloading ATR? Said on their website 24 hours, it's been like 4 days.

[8.5MS3]

Somewhat off topic, but it does involve ATR. How long does Cobb usually take to e-mail you back about downloading ATR? Said on their website 24 hours, it's been like 4 days.

theyre closed till after new years. check the website

[SallySpeed3]

Ah....well.....that would explain it, lol.

[Dano2010]

yeah, I received my link in about 2 days.

[Dano2010]

Here are my latest logs after my PTP CDFP upgrade and I am a bit concerned with a couple of things and wanted to get some input from others.

1) Should I be concerned with the boost onset of 22.xx PSI? I would like to keep it at 20.xx but am having trouble even thought I have reduced the values in my Throttle- Req Load tables.

2) Perhaps of more concern is my 13.3x AFRs in 4th gear during the pulls. I know it has been covered that a 12.5 AFR is ok with DISI but is 13.3 at 19-20 PSI? Also strange that my AFR in 4th with my bad CDFP [logs posted yesterday] was actually better than it is now?? What gives??

Any ideas? Thanks

[08cosmic3]

Your WG numbers look more like spark adv. Check to see if you edited the file and mis labelled. If not there is a problem.

[Dano2010]

oh only in the last tab. thanks.

thoughts on the other values??

[SPEEDYONE]

DANO thats lean for those boost numbers

[8.5MS3]

agreed. those afrs are too lean. should target 11.6-11.8.

[Dano2010]

I thought so but any ideas why? I am running a PTP pump and my DI pressure is in the 1700-1800 range and the AFR targets are Cobb OTS spec for Stage 2 MSCAI2 +TMIC 93 V1.05

What's funny the day before when I had a stock pump and DI pressure was below 700 my AFRs were fine.

WTF

Edit: I am new to this for sure and am not disputing anything you say, but isn't a 12.xx AFR ok for DISI. I know the guys that have come over from the Subie world are used to targeting AFRs in the 11s but Travis has stated on more than one occasion that 12.xx is fine on DISI due to the cooling effect of DI.

[8.5MS3]

I thought so but any ideas why? I am running a PTP pump and my DI pressure is in the 1700-1800 range and the AFR targets are Cobb OTS spec for Stage 2 MSCAI2 +TMIC 93 V1.05

What's funny the day before when I had a stock pump and DI pressure was below 700 my AFRs were fine.

WTF

ots maps work for some, not all. you can tweak the map in atr or get a protune to really make some power.

12.xx is too lean in this motor. I personally believe it has something to do with the 25% airflow discrepency between the intake runners among other things. the car runs pig rich from the factory for a reason...what that is noone knows. but everyone that has tried leaning out has blown.

[Dano2010]

ots maps work for some, not all. you can tweak the map in atr or get a protune to really make some power

Interesting. Perhaps I need to perform a MAF calabration to increase fuel at WOT. If my table in ATR is currently set to 11.xx and my O2 is reading 13.xx I am not meeting my AFR target so the only other way I know of to make it woudl be increasing the values in my MAF tables A & B,,, right??

Also, I am new to this for sure and am not disputing anything you say, but isn't a 12.xx AFR ok for DISI. I know the guys that have come over from the Subie world are used to targeting AFRs in the 11s but Travis has stated on more than one occasion that 12.xx is fine on DISI due to the cooling effect of DI. Just Axing

[Dano2010]

ots maps work for some, not all. you can tweak the map in atr or get a protune to really make some power.

12.xx is too lean in this motor. I personally believe it has something to do with the 25% airflow discrepency between the intake runners among other things. the car runs pig rich from the factory for a reason...what that is noone knows. but everyone that has tried leaning out has blown.


Ok just read your comment on the 12 AFR and that sounds reasonable to me. Thanks 8.5

[Dano2010]

DANO thats lean for those boost numbers

Thanks for the reply..I am trying to figure out why that is now and will post up the solution IF I find one but suspect it will be a MAF calabration. My LTFT and STFT are in the + 10-12 range while in Closed Loop so a MAF calabration to increase fuel and get them closer to 8% will hopefully correct my WOT fueling.

[8.5MS3]

Thanks for the reply..I am trying to figure out why that is now and will post up the solution IF I find one but suspect it will be a MAF calabration. My LTFT and STFT are in the + 10-12 range while in Closed Loop so a MAF calabration to increase fuel and get them closer to 8% will hopefully correct my WOT fueling.

get it to 0

[Dano2010]

yeah...I spent some time with MAF cal when I had an Injen CAI which was a biatch because it doesn't have straighteners so I got a MSCAI2 and was hoping it would better match Cobbs OTS map. Looks like i'll be doing some MAF calabration work today.

Thanks again 8.5

[Dano2010]

ok, I have calibrated my MAF tables and it looks like I'm almost there with only a few instances of 12 afrs but sometimes, the afr is great and at other times it is much richer than the target values, all instances at the same MAF voltage. In the case of a lean afr, I don't need to increase the MAF table value because it is already correct in other runs at that same voltage. I don't get it.

If your already not getting close to the Fuel OL/WOT table values how are you supposed to lean out the target AFR from an OTS map value to 11.6-11.8?

Anybody care to educate my poor brain on this.

[MS3Zoom24]

ok, I have calibrated my MAF tables and it looks like I'm almost there with only a few instances of 12 afrs but sometimes, the afr is great and at other times it is much richer than the target values, all instances at the same MAF voltage. In the case of a lean afr, I don't need to increase the MAF table value because it is already correct in other runs at that same voltage. I don't get it.

If your already not getting close to the Fuel OL/WOT table values how are you supposed to lean out the target AFR from an OTS map value to 11.6-11.8?

Anybody care to educate my poor brain on this.

Looks good to me!

you should also log the load to determine what values you are hitting.

Weird though that your wastegate is not registering anything

Did you copy it wrong or are you not having any wastegate??

EDIT: I also didnt see the other logs in the tabs!!!
Again like cosmic said below boost does look a little low for an ots map, but then if you just calibrated your maf for the first time it will be low so then that is ok.

second you should log you load like i said before to know where your at as far as overshooting or close to fuel cut.

third: its a little worrysome in your 3rd to 5th pull in third where you were getting KR around 5k especially since you were not even floored yet

hope this helps a little

[08cosmic3]

Boost is low for Stg 2 and drops too fast.

Edit: I only saw the first pull and did not realize there were others.

I have tried to post data logs here but it won't let me up load them, it says invalid file type. I have uploaded them at MSF. What do I need to do to make my files upload?

[Dano2010]

Boost is low for Stg 2 and drops too fast.

Edit: I only saw the first pull and did not realize there were others.

I have tried to post data logs here but it won't let me up load them, it says invalid file type. I have uploaded them at MSF. What do I need to do to make my files upload?

They will not load xlsx you need to save them as Excel 97-2003 format.

Thanks for the replies and yes my boost tapers too fast. In the first logs I posted, when my CDFP was toast my boost looked better. The latest logs were recorded while it was wet out so my 3rd gear pull was with lots of throttle modulation so that may explain why 3rd was getting KR?? I got more logs today and will post them up after my night of drinking ;-)

Thanks again!

D

[Dano2010]

Looks good to me!

you should also log the load to determine what values you are hitting.

Weird though that your wastegate is not registering anything

Did you copy it wrong or are you not having any wastegate??

EDIT: I also didnt see the other logs in the tabs!!!
Again like cosmic said below boost does look a little low for an ots map, but then if you just calibrated your maf for the first time it will be low so then that is ok.

second you should log you load like i said before to know where your at as far as overshooting or close to fuel cut.

third: its a little worrysome in your 3rd to 5th pull in third where you were getting KR around 5k especially since you were not even floored yet

hope this helps a little

I forgot you could log load!!! that would help GREATELY! My vision gets very myopic at times ;-)

Thanks.

And yes, I have no idea how my WGDC could be 0 and still hit 18PSI. Those logs are correct. I have noticed that a single gear pull acts much different than a multi gear pull. I think the tab you saw was a single 4th gear pull with the highest boost being 18ish. I typically hit 22.19 [Boost-Throttle close for my current map] and sometimes 22.43 [just below fuel cut] , one cell only so just a spike, then settle down to 20 and taper to 16 or 15 which I think is too low. Do you spike that high?

I was hitting Boost-Throttle Close numerous times but never Boost- Throttle cut. It actually looked like the Limit tables are controlling my highest boost numbers and not my Load tables which concerns me.

Could the KR in 3rd be because of throttle modulation due to wheel spin? I never see it for the most part.

Not sure why the other tabs are not showing up, I had 5 I think. Here it is again.

Thanks again guys for the help. I hope to get the current issues ironed out soon and move toward changing my Fuel tables. I think I have over shot my MAF calibration a bit so I am now running rich at times at WOT. I want to get that corrected and move on.

Happy New Year to all!!

[08cosmic3]

I spike around 20 to 20.5 and once I hit 21.0. Most of the time in multi gear pulls I will spike around 20 and hold 19's fading into 18's.

Below is a single from today. Pretty consistent 18 psi all the way to 6000 rpm with no drop.

160336

[Dano2010]

I like the boost consistency in your log. Could you post one up going WOT around 3K and up?

Are you running an OTS map or is it modified?

I think I may have found the source of my boost trouble. I was looking around at all my vac and boost lines and noticed there was a crack in the back feed on my WG control solenoid. I must have damaged it when I installed my TIP last month. I'll have to order a new one from Mazda next week. I think that would explain how I could log 0% WGDC and still have 18 PSI boost AND explains why my boost doesn't hold to redline. Man I hope that is it!

Thanks for the help and I'll post up my results after I get the new part.

[SallySpeed3]

Just got Accesstuner installed on my computer. Holy Crap it looks so confusing, but anyway. I thought ATR allowed the use of "no lift shifting" and "launch control" to be added to base maps. When I open ATR I can't find anything dealing with those, or in the manual. Any help is appreciated.

[mazdaspeed kid]

Is it safe to use cobb turbo inlet tube and sf sri on stage 1 93 + sf?

[8.5MS3]

Is it safe to use cobb turbo inlet tube and sf sri on stage 1 93 + sf?

yes

[mazdaspeed kid]

Thanks, I set it back to the stock tune anyways, I'll put the map on when I wanna have fun

[08cosmic3]

Thanks, I set it back to the stock tune anyways, I'll put the map on when I wanna have fun

Keep the most aggresive map for your mods on your car and control the power with your right foot.

[Dano2010]

Just got Accesstuner installed on my computer. Holy Crap it looks so confusing, but anyway. I thought ATR allowed the use of "no lift shifting" and "launch control" to be added to base maps. When I open ATR I can't find anything dealing with those, or in the manual. Any help is appreciated.

Do you have the v105 maps? I think LC and FFS only work with those maps and in ATR they are listed toward the bottom under Limiter Tables. You will need to set your LV Vehicle Speed Limiter to like 13 [means the LC limiter will only kick in under 13 MPH] and Hysteresis to 2 [don't remember what this is for but it is explained on here somewhere]. I have LC running at 2800 but that is just a personal pref.

[SallySpeed3]

Yes I have the v105 maps. I'll try doing some more research. All I really want is the flat foot shifting. I've heard launch control can be harmful if you do it too much, and it's not like I'm taking my car to the track every week.

[Dano2010]

The limiter tables are right between Ignition Tables and Load Tables. Yeah unless you are at the track with some slicks LC is useless.

[daonly1around]

Yes I have the v105 maps. I'll try doing some more research. All I really want is the flat foot shifting. I've heard launch control can be harmful if you do it too much, and it's not like I'm taking my car to the track every week.

unless your running catless that launch control will fill the cats with junk and fuel REAL fast

[Dano2010]

interesting point. so when the ignition is being cut by the limiter, fuel is still being injected and pushed out to the cats?? Makes perfect since.

[manelscout4life]

um the way cobb set up there launch control fuel also gets cut down so it doesnt just dumped into the cats.

[COBB Tuning]

We do not have any direct data on how LC/FFS effects catalytic converters. However, these functions were designed for "track only" applications and catalytic converter damage is a bit of a secondary concern. I will inquire with our tuning team to get a better answer for your concerns.

[daonly1around]

We do not have any direct data on how LC/FFS effects catalytic converters. However, these functions were designed for "track only" applications and catalytic converter damage is a bit of a secondary concern. I will inquire with our tuning team to get a better answer for your concerns.

thanks travis. quick question, what should i gap my step colder plugs?

[smoke_31]

.028 iirc

[H3br3w_Ham3r]

Wouldn't any gas that is dumped into the cylinder during this time either still explode when it hit the hot cylinder head, exhaust manifold, turbo, and possibly not even reach the cats?

[smoke_31]

I don't think that all of the fuel being dumped in to the cylinder would ignite. I haven't tried LC in this car, but I'm assuming it sounds like all the other LC enabled cars I've heard where it is constantly backfiring (fuel igniting in exhaust).

My car recently had a misfire issue that was triggering cat efficient codes so I'm assuming LC would have an even bigger effect. AP disables this engine code AFAIK so you would never know it was killing your cat.

[H3br3w_Ham3r]

I don't think that all of the fuel being dumped in to the cylinder would ignite. I haven't tried LC in this car, but I'm assuming it sounds like all the other LC enabled cars I've heard where it is constantly backfiring (fuel igniting in exhaust).

My car recently had a misfire issue that was triggering cat efficient codes so I'm assuming LC would have an even bigger effect. AP disables this engine code AFAIK so you would never know it was killing your cat.

I have the LC for auto-x starts and it doesn't pop or bang. Just sounds like its hitting a rev limiter. I don't think doing it every once and a while would kill a cat.

[smoke_31]

More encouragement for me to try it out I guess :)

[daonly1around]

what do i need to do to access that launch control?

[smoke_31]

Load a map in ATR and set it up in there. There are some specific settings you must change that have been mentioned previously in this thread I believe. This is the best I can remember.

One value is a speed limiter for LC (set it to say 10MPH). This prevents LC from activating over that speed.

The other value must be set to 2 if I am correct (not sure what it is or what it does).

Then just set your RPM I believe.

Someone more experienced can come and tell me I'm wrong :)