cobb ap info

[SMOKEYS36SHOP]

ok so i am finally getting the cobb ap in 2 weeks..and i wanted some advise on the product

1- is there anything i need to monitor while using it? i hear people talking about knocking...what is it and whats good/bad

2-i talked to someone from cobb a while back about the cobb ap and was told i might need the a Mass Air Flow Straightener ? with my aem cold air intake?..dont know why i would need it since i dont have one in the intake now and my car is running fine...?

3-based on what i have i am either gonna go with this map Stage2+TIHMSCAI 93 v102 or this map Stage2 93 v102 TMIC..which one do you think is better ? any suggestions would be great.

4- what are people using to mount there cobb ap? thanks guys!

[8.5MS3]

1. KR - knock retard - bad - car retards timing due to the fuel combusting earlier than expected or originating from somewhere other than the spark plug. if its bad enough it can cause detonation, which will lead to a piston taking a trip outside the block. Once you find a map that works its not really required anymore, but a dashawk would be good to act as an alarm when kr happens and you can monitor a bunch of things at the same time

2. the straightener looks like a set of vanes within the airstream to straighten out the air flow. If you dont have it the MAF cant accurately meter the air coming into the engine which can lead to a whole slew of issues

http://www.jscspeed.com/mazdaspeed3/intake/aem_straightener.htm

3. Try either map out, do some datalogs and make sure all parameters fit within the window specified in the map notes. Also post up logs so others can take a look and give you advice. take it easy for the first 50-100 miles so the trims can stabilize.

4. I use a cell phone holder mounted to my vents in the dash, others use a suction cup on the windshield.

[ugadogs_11]

What are the proper numbers to set for knock retard on the dashhawk? I have both the AP and the Dashhawk to monitor parameters.

[SMOKEYS36SHOP]

1- ok so what is bad and what is good..idk how its read number wise....

2- ok but the thing is i have had it on my car for over a year without the straightner...i also have a mazdaspeed 6 ..not a speed 3 which i noticed has a different intake

3- yea i will post when i get it in the car...i heard it can take 200 miles for the car to learn it...and something like when your check engine light stops flashing on start up it learns the cobb ap program? am i right?

4-ok i will look into different holders for it this weekend....and see where i wanna put it...thanks

[8.5MS3]

1. any knock is bad. want it to be 0 all the time. .3 - .7 is ok, anything over 1.5 at WOT is bad, back off.

2. Im not sure if it fits, but when you flash the AP, you now have advanced the timing and increased boost, proper readings are VERY important.

3. The AP will give instructions on the screen when flashing the new map. follow them and youll be good to go.

[tunersteve]

I'll add to what 8.5 has said (all very good info):

If you don't have one, get a Dashhawk soon. One of the best investments you can make for monitoring your car. The AP allows you to do some reading, but the DH is much easier and user configurable to set up your ideal screen(s).

For knock alerting, I have mine set to warn at 2.5, 5.0, and 7.5. The screen changes color and/or flashes an alert on screen. While knock is preferred to be 0, it seems that with our car it is inveitable (at least right now). I don't see any at WOT, but at part throttle it spikes up from time to time. I suspect (just a hunch) that a proper PCV system and minor fueling changes could eliminate this.

I've heard arguments both ways in terms of going easy vs. driving your normal style. I've tried both and see the same results. Your fuel trims will level out over time, so if you're not flashing it repeatedly (which zeros the LTFTs) then you should be fine.

[SMOKEYS36SHOP]

well the dashhawk is gonna have to wait for a while since the cobb ap is a very expensive part lol...i really only want to just add 1 map and not have to worry about it again...so what your saying steve is as long as i dont keep reflashing new maps i should be fine then?

[tunersteve]

well the dashhawk is gonna have to wait for a while since the cobb ap is a very expensive part lol...i really only want to just add 1 map and not have to worry about it again...so what your saying steve is as long as i dont keep reflashing new maps i should be fine then?

Everytime you flash it, you reset the fuel trims. What I meant is by flashing repeatedly, you have to let your fuel trims settle down. If you flash one map and drive that for hundreds of miles and your LTFTs will take care of themselves over time.

Keep an eye out for a DH in the for sale sections, you can pick up one for $200 or less.

[SMOKEYS36SHOP]

ok...how much horsepower can be gained from switching from map to map? any idea?

[8.5MS3]

you dont switch map to map, you put on the map made for your mods

it comes preloaded for different modifications:

http://www.accessecu.com/accessport/mazda/AP-MAZ-002/MS6Maps.html

[Jay Davidson]

If you don't have one, get a Dashhawk soon. One of the best investments you can make for monitoring your car. The AP allows you to do some reading, but the DH is much easier and user configurable to set up your ideal screen(s).

Would you recommend getting the 'Hawk before getting the AP? Assuming you don't get them both at the same time...

-Jay

[tunersteve]

Would you recommend getting the 'Hawk before getting the AP? Assuming you don't get them both at the same time...

-Jay

Absolutely. The DH is great regardless of mods, and worth every penny. It's more of a peace of mind mod, but with how odd our cars can be, I'd suggest it. I picked up mine before I got the AP, and just being able to monitor so many parameters made me feel more at ease.

[Jay Davidson]

Where do you have yours mounted, Steve?

[tunersteve]

Where do you have yours mounted, Steve?

I have a Blendmount, which puts it right below the rearview mirror (see pic)

[zinger002]

I have a Blendmount, which puts it right below the rearview mirror (see pic)

so you can't have the DH and the AP both plugged in at the same time? just making sure because iirc the speed only has one obd port.

[8.5MS3]

no you cannot, even if you buy an OBD splitter they still wont work together

[FORZDA 1]

so you can't have the DH and the AP both plugged in at the same time? just making sure because iirc the speed only has one obd port.

Yeah no workie like that. If you have a DH, there really is no reason to have the AP connected other than to flash a map into the ECU, or record a lengthy tuning log. Otherwise, the DH is much better at real-time display/monitoring. If you need a lengthy log for tuning, you plug in the AP, record your log and then remove it, simple.

Note the Speed3/6 cars are not just OBD2, they are OBD "CAN" (Controller Area Network) which is a sort of communucation bus (network) similar in concept to a LAN.

[tunersteve]

Exactly. Most people just leave the DH mounted in the car and unplug it for flashing duty, then plug it back in when they're done.

[DetroitMS6]

Would you recommend getting the 'Hawk before getting the AP? Assuming you don't get them both at the same time...

-Jay

I say get the AP first. I have an AP and no DH. The AP gives you more power and allows you to monitor your car. All the DH does is keep you paranoid about KR and other crap. Im not say dont get the DH but if I can only do one it will be the AP.

[FORZDA 1]

I say get the AP first. I have an AP and no DH. The AP gives you more power and allows you to monitor your car. All the DH does is keep you paranoid about KR and other crap. Im not say dont get the DH but if I can only do one it will be the AP.

Some folks may become paranoid, but ignorance really isn't bliss. IMO, you really shouldn't run the AP, or any other mods for that matter, without installing and becoming familiar with a DH (or scangauge or something similar) and how your car works BEFORE any mods. Not that the DH prevents any problems as it is simply a real-time data monitoring device. Note that the AP has a data record function that is more robust than the DH, but it really takes both to know what's going on.

[Jay Davidson]

Doesn't the AP offer real-time data monitoring, though? It seems to me that there's nothing that the DH does that the AP doesn't do as well.

Honestly, guys, the thing that attracts me to the AP more than anything else is the economy map. I do a lot of driving for which I get reimbursed; basically, the higher my gas mileage, the more I net when it's all said and done. Also, there is no 93 octane to be found in the great State o' Maine and I'd like to use the AP to compensate for that.

Eventually, yes, I will probably be putting more go-fast stuff on this thing beyond my current Cobb SRI. In the meantime, I would like to be able to use that econ map and also keep track of some data.

-Jay

PS: Sorry for the (jacked), OP...

[DetroitMS6]

Some folks may become paranoid, but ignorance really isn't bliss. IMO, you really shouldn't run the AP, or any other mods for that matter, without installing and becoming familiar with a DH (or scangauge or something similar) and how your car works BEFORE any mods. Not that the DH prevents any problems as it is simply a real-time data monitoring device. Note that the AP has a data record function that is more robust than the DH, but it really takes both to know what's going on.

You wont be ignorant with the AP because you can data log with it. My argument is not against the DH. Someone asked if you had to choose one which one would it be.

They both data log. One lets you realtime monitor one perimeter while the other allows you 6(?). Lets say you get 5.6 degrees of knock at 4500 RPM. The DH will light up for you and thats it. The AP will allow you to adjust boost ,timing, spark advance etc .

If given the choice I choose correcting KR over lights.

[8.5MS3]

The economy map is one of the most dangerous maps for the ap. It advances timing a ton and leans you out as well. The map notes also specifically say no high boost or spirited driving on the map. Real easy to get massive kr and detonation. IMO its not worth the risk. Just control your right foot n stay out of boost. I see 25mpg in 70/30 city/hwy. Plus if the mood strikes you, you can't have fun when on that map.

[FORZDA 1]

You wont be ignorant with the AP because you can data log with it. ......

If given the choice I choose correcting KR over lights.

Yeah, agree here. my put was that you shouldn't have just one or the other. Certainly if a single choice had to be made "forever" then the AP is the only option as it is a full-function tuning device. The data log function in the DH is limited to ~6 PIDS, but the AP will log 10-12 or so for much better data discrimination for tuning. However, it only displays 1 PID real-time and it doesn't have the adjustable warning settings to attract your attention to your preset areas of concern. If you're going to mod your car, I'm recommending you don't do it "part-way".