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prof15
08-23-2009, 12:58 PM
I apologize in advance for large post but I want to explain every thing to see if I can get help to figure it out what seems to be causing the problem I am having.


Lately I have been having Idleling problem, the car drive normally and when ever I get to a stop sign or light the rpm drops below normal and goes up and down but it never reach the normal rmp. I have been doing some maintance to my car and lately have replace a few things. Here is a little history line as when the problem started.


1 ~month ago I did the nonfouler trick-but the light came back about 50miles after I reset the computer.(The weird thing is that during this period the car idle was bad but it returned to normal once the cel light came back on).

2 About a week later I drove through big puddle of water during a big storm. The car seem normal.

3-About a 2 weeks after that I was going to do a long trip so I decided to check every thing on the car. Replaced: Air filter (it was really dirty).

(The day of the trip I filled the tank and pored a bottle of fuel injector cleaner)

4- A week later in my way back from the trip, when I was about 20 miles from home the cel went from solid to flashing and the car started to act weird. (Next day I went to autozone and got it scanned, got a random misfire code) Replaced: spark plugs and cables The problem stayed the same.

5- After replacing the Spark plugs and cables, the cel came back to solid since I still need to replace the O2 censor. But the car still had the bad idle, so I checked all the lines vacuum lines and replaced the check valve, tried cleaning the egr but couldn't remove the small screws that hold it to the solenoid, and also cleaned the MAF sensor. The proble stayed the same. (I found that most of the lines were covered in oil so I cleaned them, but did not find any leaks broken hose or leaks under the car.)

6- About two week I took it to a mechanic and the scanner did not retrieved the random misfire code. Later that week went back since the car started to die when I came to an stop sign or light and even though the light was not flashing he got the misfire code and he told me that I needed new coils.

7- Early this week I changed the oil, and replaced the rear left brake caliper since it started to leak and also replaced the ignition coils and the problem still the same, new coils seem to have help a little since the car doesn't turn off at lights and the idle some times stay at normal but still goes below at most of times.


Today I went by autozone again, and got it scanned and I got a new code (P0171)

Lean Air/Fuel ratio bank 1

Probable cause
1- Low fuel pressure
2-Large Vacuum leak
3-Dirty /Defective MAF Sensor
4-Engine Mechanical Condition

Do you guys have any suggestion or have had a similar experience before? I will probably check again for a vacuum leak and clean the MAF sensor again.
But at this point I might have to take it to the mechanic since I don't want to keep buying parts or replacing things to have the same out come.

Topper_Harlee
09-19-2009, 11:52 PM
Do you have hard time starting? My son's car, 2001 ES, had a similar condition you described. Autozone code reader said:

1st time:
Idle control system RPM lower than expected

Probable cause:
Large vacuum leak
Blocked Air intake or exhaust system
Throttle body damage
Engine Mechanical contition

2nd time:
Random cylinder misfire detected

Probable cause:
Lean Air/Fuel ratio
Weak ignition system
Engine mechanical condition
Vacuum leak affecting one cylinder


From these 2 readings, what do you think the culprit was? I replaced the Air Idle Control valve @$184, clean the MAF, run Seafoam through, check all hoses, clean what I can along the intake track...none of these work. By this time my wife, said "Take the car to a mechanic!!" Just before I did that, I remember that my stepson and I had cleaned out the EGR about 6 months ago...so as a last resort, we took out the EGR again. Guess what? The damn valve basically stuck!! We soaked it over night, it still won't move freely so I took Dremel with the cup-wire attachment and clean it out until it moves freely. Reinstalled it, prayed, and start her up.......and she started right up, the rough idling is gone, the CEL is gone. Now she's running smooth as before. If you didn't, you might want to give this a try. There's a whole thread dealing with this problem.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94788

Xanten
09-20-2009, 12:37 AM
Yeah i would have to say go with either cleaning the EGR or replaising it with a new one. If you can find a way,get one from here in canada they have a new EGR valve thats supposed to fix the problem for good but its only available here.

prof15
09-20-2009, 01:12 AM
Hey man thanks for the suggestion I am going to try cleaning the EGR, since I actually did remove the EGR the other day but couldn't clean it since I was unable to remove some of the small screws that hold the valve to the solenoid. I had to stop since screw heads started to strip. After I put it back I thought to myself that I should have continue trying to remove those screws.

I will try again tomorrow pray I can remove the screws, and clean the EGR to see if I can solve the problem

prof15
09-20-2009, 01:15 AM
Yeah i would have to say go with either cleaning the EGR or replaising it with a new one. If you can find a way,get one from here in canada they have a new EGR valve thats supposed to fix the problem for good but its only available here.

So how can I get one of the canadian version in case I need to? are they available online?

Xanten
09-20-2009, 02:00 AM
No there not available online, only from canadian dealers but some people have got some luck by calling dealers and getting them shipped to the states.

prof15
09-20-2009, 01:19 PM
I just finished cleaning the EGR, it actually was not stuck and the spring moved freely. I sprayed the egr with carb cleaner and let it seat for about 5-10min and after that I brushed the inside with a little brush. It started fine but after I drove it for a mile the Idle still the same... I guess it just have to readjust.

How long does it usually take for the computer and the egr to adjust again after a reset?

Topper_Harlee
09-20-2009, 02:18 PM
I just finished cleaning the EGR, it actually was not stuck and the spring moved freely. I sprayed the egr with carb cleaner and let it seat for about 5-10min and after that I brushed the inside with a little brush. It started fine but after I drove it for a mile the Idle still the same... I guess it just have to readjust.

How long does it usually take for the computer and the egr to adjust again after a reset?

You should notice it right away. As for how to clean it and removing those 4 screws...did you even read my message in that thread?

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94788&page=54

Go down to message #806.

You can also use one of these if you can find one:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93481

This tool is also good for removing the Air Idle Control Valve, or any of those soft screws.

prof15
09-21-2009, 11:14 PM
You should notice it right away. As for how to clean it and removing those 4 screws...did you even read my message in that thread?

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94788&page=54

Go down to message #806.

You can also use one of these if you can find one:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93481

This tool is also good for removing the Air Idle Control Valve, or any of those soft screws.

Thanks I was able to remove the 4 screws easily with a pliers, and I didn't read your post but its pretty much what I did. The thing is that it started normally like always, but after driving around the block the idle started drop below 700rpm when ever I got to a Stop sign or light.

Topper_Harlee
09-21-2009, 11:22 PM
Hum, then the next thing to try would be the Idle Control Valve. That would be my guess.

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2001/mazda/protege/fuel_injection/idle_control_valve.html

prof15
09-22-2009, 04:41 PM
I think the idle is back to normal..I after driving for about 12miles I checked the idle at almost every light and it stayed 2 marks above the first strong mark which I guess is the 500rpm. So hopefully if it wont go bad again, if it does I guess the Idle control Valve will be next. Is 700rpm the normal Idle speed for the engine right?

prof15
09-28-2009, 01:06 AM
Good news the Idle problem is gone..after driving the car for about 300+ miles after cleaning the egr valve it looks like its back to normal. Now I just need buy a new o2 censor to take care of the cel.. and the car will be 100%

Thanks every one for all the advise and suggestions..