Can you add power locks to 2010 Mazda 3 Sport?

[Texstokes]

The 2010 Mazda 3 Sport has power windows as a standard item but no power locks. Can they be added later? A tint/alarm installer said he could do it by purchasing the lock/acuator for each door from Mazda and adding an alarm/keyless entry system to it. Does that sound feasible?

[GoFast]

yep. I have done it on other vehicles.

[NewMazdaThree]

Texstokes
- Yeh, I would like to add Power Locks and Keyless Entry to my 2010 Mazda 3 i Sport as well. Did the installer give an estimate on the cost?

GoFast
- Do you know if the install of Power Locks and Keyless Entry voids any Mazda warranties? Also, when I locate an installer should I make sure they get the parts from Mazda? Any thoughts on how to find a installer in my city -
Car Alarm installers in the yellow pages?

Thanks!

[Sport6]

Check out: http://www.a1electric.com/mes.htm

I installed their system in my Focus ZX3. It was a long process by myself but never had any problems with it! It was like 140 bucks I think for the 2 door version with the alarm package or something like that. Definitely worth it.

[NewMazdaThree]

Sport 6 - I asked a couple places today and they said the warranty would not be effected by adding power locks and keyless entry - do you know this to be the case? Thanks.

[Texstokes]

OK... my project to add power locks and keyless entry to my plain jane Mazda 3 is complete and I don't know if this is the best way or the cheapest way but it was the way I had it done and I was happy with the results.... and because I got the car so cheap, the cost was a lot less than having to get the next model up...

I bought the four Mazda door locks with built in acuators from Montgomery Mazda in Charlotte, NC... the local Mazda dealer here in Austin wanted $130 a lock for them but I ordered them from Jason at Montgomery Mazda through their online parts website (www.onlinemazdaparts.com ) and got them for approximately $80 each with no sales tax and FREE shipping....

I took the locks to Robert at Austin Sunshades Window Tinting and Alarms here in Austin ( www.austinsunshades.com ) for the installation of the keyless entry/alarm and the locks... I installed an Audiovox Prestige APS255 which was $200 installed and then $65 per door for the installation of the door locks/acuators... so my total cost for the project (locks/acuators, keyless entry/alarm and installation) was $780...

The system was set up to lock all the doors when the ignition is turned on and they unlock when the key is turned off... they can also be activated with the fob as well... after a month of having to manually lock and unlock the doors myself and continually forgetting to lock at least one of them, I am now enjoying my new car much more than before...

Here are the part numbers for the locks/acuators for my 2010 Mazda 3...

BCS3-58-319B
BBM4-59-310B
BBM4-72-310
BBM4-73-310

[Starhawk]

We're in the same boat. My sister just bought a 2010 Mazda3 i Sport, got a fantastic deal on it and she's extremely happy with it, just a bit bummed there's not power locks.

Im trying to look into how we can get this installed for her, so thank you for the details Texstokes.

Do you know if all of those parts you picked up were necessary? Some people are telling me that the wiring/parts may actually be in the door, and that Mazda might just use the same door in all cars as a cost saving measure.

[Kain]

Pics?









... of sister?

[Texstokes]

The four parts are the four locks, one for each door, that have the acuators are built into whole unit.... there is a plug where it plugs into the wiring harness and two cables which attach to the door lever... you are basically replacing the whole lock.... I didn't watch the install so I don't know exactly how he wired them...

[Starhawk]

Awesome, thanks for the details. If she wants to move forward, I might start looking around locally for an installer. She says she's ok with it, but I wonder if she'll get tired of using the key and maybe missing doors being locked like you said.

[derspi]

The question on my mind is how can a car made in 2010 NOT have standard power locks!

Blasphemy!

[Sport6]

Sport 6 - I asked a couple places today and they said the warranty would not be effected by adding power locks and keyless entry - do you know this to be the case? Thanks.

Hey sorry for not paying attention to this thread. If something went specifically wrong with the door lock and you installed the door locks then I wouldn't think they would cover it. Same thing if something broke taking the doors apart. But I would say if its something completely unrelated to the door/locks it should be fine...

Though if it was a wiring problem (in that kit, you wire in the power/headlight flashers and all that, I ordered an alarm kit when I did it too) then they might claim it was caused by that.


The question on my mind is how can a car made in 2010 NOT have standard power locks!

Blasphemy!

Yeah no kidding!

[sandyybeach]

dang, i've been searching for a couple weeks now on how to do this b/c i've come into the same thing, got a great deal on a mazda3 sport but no power locks. I did ask my dealer when i bought the car if i did anything like this or remote start if it would void any warranty and they said no it wouldn't.

Here are the part numbers for the locks/acuators for my 2010 Mazda 3...

BCS3-58-319B
BBM4-59-310B
BBM4-72-310
BBM4-73-310
Texstokes is offline Report Post Reply With Quote---
**i think the top one is supposed to be BCS-58-310B...that's the part number i got from 2 dealerships in my town..

[skallen]

Pics?









... of sister?

Hahaha...LOL!!!

[skou]

So, after just two weeks of manually locking and unlocking the doors on my new Mazda 3i Sport, I've had about enough and started tearing into the dash and doors to see what it will take to add power locks.

I've downloaded the wiring diagrams from the Mazda Tech Info site (http://www.mazdatechinfo.com/) and it looks like the functionality for central power locks (but not keyless) is already built into the BCU and it's just a matter of adding the mechanical/electrical bits and pieces in the doors and wiring them in.

I just bought the locks/actuators from Jason at Montgomery Mazda (http://www.onlinemazdaparts.com/) along with the driver and passenger side switches/interior handles/screws for central locking ($415.97 S&H included). I plan to hook these up to a Clarion K20 keyless entry controller ($39.99 on Amazon S&H included).

My preference would be to do as little cutting into the existing wiring harness as possible. I was looking at the driver's side front door wiring harness last night and I believe I can just modify it to add the wires needed to power the lock/actuator and to tie-in the switch instead of buying a completely new door harness. After searching online for a few hours, it looks like the connector pins needed are Sumitomo Wiring Systems series TS size 090 non-sealed female copper/tin for 2.0mm wire. I've only been able to find these at New United Race Tech for $2.33 each! Pretty steep considering pins like these normally run about $0.29 each for domestically made cars.

Anybody know where else I can buy these in the USA or if a less expensive equivalent is available from someone like Tyco/AMP?

[skou]

In case anyone is interested, part numbers for the additional Mazda parts for central locking are:

Switch, Left, GS3L-66-660A
Switch, Right, GS3M-66-660A
Screw Door Switch, EG21-58-304 (4 required)
Handle Inner, Left, BBM6-59-330 02
Handle Inner, Right, BBM6-58-330 02

The correct part number for the Right Door Latch/Actuator is BCS3-58-310D.

[ONeil1997]

Is all the electrical connectors and fuses already present in my car & ready for "plug-in" installation?

[skou]

The back doors are pre-wired to provide power to the new actuators. The front doors, however, are not, and you need to run two wires in each door from the connector in the new actuator to the connector in the door pillar. If you add the switches to the doors as well, each switch also needs one wire from the switch to the connector in the door pillar and one wire from the switch to the ground wire in the existing door harness.

The pins that Mazda uses in the electrical connectors are not available in the USA. I ended up modifying the existing front door harnesses using pigtailed male and female pins I cannibalized from a first generation 2002-2007 Mazda 6 driver's side door harness I bought off of e-bay. The connector which plugs into the actuator needs female pins and the connector which plugs into the door pillar needs male pins.

The dashboard wiring harness already includes the wiring and fuses to power the new actuators and switches, BUT...

After I got all of the missing wiring sorted out and installed, the locks wouldn't work. The switches are working, but the relays in the Body Control Module don't fire. Talking with Jason at Montgomery Mazda, the BCM part number is the same for all manual transmission cars, so we think we need to add the Keyless Receiver to make the OEM system work.

Rather than test that theory and spend a couple of hundred dollars more on this project, I decided to just use the Clarion K20 to control everything. I tapped into +12V constant power and ground in the driver's side kick panel and ignition switched +12V power with a fuse tap in the interior fuse panel, also in the driver's side kick panel. I also tapped into the parking light and horn wires in the driver's side kick panel. Finally, I disconnected the door actuator power wires from the BCM and re-routed them to the K20. All of the taps were made with Posi-Taps, so I didn't have to cut any existing wires. The OEM wiring harness isolates the driver's door actuator from the others, so I added a relay to the K20 for progressive unlocking. The interior light already turns on when the driver's door is unlocked, so I didn't have to tap into the interior light wire.

Everything is now working except for the switches. I am now trying to figure out how to integrate these switches into the K20. The OEM system uses a one-wire multiplexed signal to control the locks. When you press the lock button the voltage in the signal wire is 2.5V. When you press the unlock button the voltage in the signal wire is 0V. The rest of the time the voltage in the signal wire is 5V.

Anybody have an idea on how I could uses these signals to control the Clarion K20?

[skou]

For what it's worth, attached is an electrical schematic to get the OEM switches to work. The two relays on the K20 for lock and unlock and the extra relay for driver's priority progressive unlocking each need another relay in series wired to the switches. I used a couple of DEI 451M Door Lock Relay Modules which are pretty inexpensive.

When the unlock switch is pressed, it sends a negative pulse to the unlock relays. I also added a diode to isolate the positive voltage BCM signals from the unlock relays.

I am still working in the window comparator to get the lock switches to work and will post an updated schematic for anyone who may be interested.

[coololddude]

Main thing to worry about is if someone at the dealership got locked in your car. If they could not get out and died they would probably charge extra for the service. Maybe not if you are on good terms with the service Manager. Just something else to worry about!!

[ONeil1997]

Thanks for that detailed reply!

Since this is more complicated than I would like to get into, I think I'm just going to settle with an aftermarket system.

[n4rwhals]

Hey Skou, I did the same thing and bought the kit from jason. I had the locks installed with a aftermarket alarm and it works fine but now the door ajar light is on forever now. For some reason when I leave my keys in the ignition and open my driver's side door it still makes the noise (which means the sensor could be working?) I think it might be wiring. You have any suggestion of what might be why? My installer did the own wiring because we thought there was supposed to be wiring for it but it turned out my model did not carry it. Jason also linked me a wiring harness for my car for 200 bucks. Would the install become easier with the harness and would it be capable with my aftermarket alarm?

[skou]

If I understand correctly, you have two separate unrelated problems. One with the door ajar light being constantly on and the other with something happening when the driver's side door is open and the key is still in the ignition.

The "door ajar" switches are built into the latch assemblies, regardless of whether they have lock actuators or not, and the wiring for them comes with the car. As such, there would be no reason at all to have to tap into them.

What noise exactly do you hear when you open the drivers side door?

Which harness are you thinking of changing? The ones in the doors or the one in the dash? In any case, I doubt changing either would fix the situation since you went with an aftermarket alarm which has its own wiring harness that needs to be spliced into the car's harness.

Sounds like your installer screwed up and either you've got a short circuit or two somewhere, they tapped into the wrong wire(s) or both. I would suggest you go back to your installer and ask them to fix the problem.

[n4rwhals]

I only have one problem which is the door ajar light being on constantly. However I am saying that when I open the driver's door with the keys in the ignition it makes the usual sound telling the driver "HEY keys in the ignition". I would assume that the door ajar switches are working since it can detect that.

[skou]

OK. It still sounds like one of the switches has been shorted out, telling the car's computer that that door is ajar all of the time. With the doors unlocked and the interior domelights set to "Door", try each one of the doors to see if the domelight comes on when you open it. Maybe that will tell you which door has the problem.

[n4rwhals]

I just tried it skou, i think i've narrowed it down to the two back doors because when i opened my driver's "door" and I turned the front light to door, the light was on. When I turned on the back light on "door" it would not turn on. I opened the back doors and the back light would not turn on. I would think it would be a wiring problem for the back doors, because it would be unlikely that the two locks shorted out. You said you looked at the wiring diagram on a website. Would that help my installer fix the issue? Is there a wire that feeds to the door ajar switch in each lock?

[jlnoury]

upgrade your power locks! Install a diesel starter selenoid in your locks! 50 amp for the power locks! thats great!

[skou]

n4rwhals, PM me with your e-mail and I'll send you the wiring diagrams.

[n4rwhals]

PM sent

[skou]

Attached is the revised schematic which now includes the window comparator. Basically it sends a negative trigger signal to the lock relay when the input voltage is higher than 1.8 V and lower than 3.2 V.

Integrated circuit U1 is an automotive grade voltage regulator which supplies regulated 10 V power to the circuit. It should continue working with the car's battery partially drained down to about 10.5 V as well as when the battery is being charged by the alternator since its input is rated up to 26 V. Capacitors C1 and C2 are filters for the input and output.

Resistors R1, R2 and R3 form a voltage divider which provides reference voltages of 3.2 V and 1.8 V.

Integrated circuits U2 and U3 are voltage comparators. All they do is compare two voltages and output a negative signal when the input voltage is either lower or higher than the reference voltage, depending on how they are wired. Since the output of U3 is connected to the ground of U2, the output from U2 will only fire if U3's output also fires.

Transistor Q1 and resistor R4 form a solid state switch which when turned on sends the trigger signal to the relay. Diode D1 protects the circuit from feedback when the relay coil de-energizes.

Total parts cost about $15.

[hegel]

hey guys,
I just bought a 2010 Mazda 3i manual transmittion with power windows but no power locks. I removed the panel from the front passenger side to take a look and noticed that there is a harness with 2 wires connected to what it looks like the door latch one wire carried around 4.4V and the other one was ground. I was wondering what were these wires for..and whether these actuators could be used for power locks or would I need new ones. Also if anyone had wiring diagrams, or know where to find.
thanks in advance
hegel

[skou]

Those are for the door switch. Green-yellow is the signal wire. Black-white is ground. The door latch assemblies that come with the car are exactly the same as the ones with power actuators except they are missing the "guts" (i.e. motors, shafts and gears) inside of them.

You can print all of the wiring diagrams from Mazda's online manual:

http://www.mazdatechinfo.com/index.asp?country=USA

[Maz94Protege]

hey guys,
I just bought a 2010 Mazda 3i manual transmittion with power windows but no power locks. I removed the panel from the front passenger side to take a look and noticed that there is a harness with 2 wires connected to what it looks like the door latch one wire carried around 4.4V and the other one was ground. I was wondering what were these wires for..and whether these actuators could be used for power locks or would I need new ones. Also if anyone had wiring diagrams, or know where to find.
thanks in advance
hegel



You can get a Universal 4 door Power door lock kit. They run around $50 and Up, depending on what you looking for. We have a cableing lock kit system, so this means we need an adapter for each door and they are only an additional $7 per door.

Entire kit is like $75+ shipping.
AutoDax is the site im going through

[Maz94Protege]

Well i just tried this same thing, the door panels come off very easily the cable lock adapter kit is simple to install. The hangup is there is almost no where to install the actuator. The new doorpanels are so slim and there is a plastic insulator (instead of the old plastic in previous mazdas, holding the electronics to the backside of the door.

Spent 2.5 hrs trying different things (without cutting the plastic in the doors) to get them to fit. Fortunately i called the company and the will refund my full amount.

If anyone did get these to work, or had someone else install them. can you PLEASE take a door panel off and take a picture of the install. Id love to get these to work..... but patience is up, and no one has posted install pictures yet (to date).


Thanks.

[PsychoMisfit]

I worked on one aftermarket actuator for two hours as well with no luck and ive been installing these things professionally for over 10 years now. Im going with OEM. Does anyone know if the factory actuators run on 12v or less?

[ptcary]

OK, I'm kinda lost here, I have the factory parts and a Clifford alarm to install, is there any power in the door already that can run the actuator and the switch?

[Maz94Protege]

There is the harness already there, i believe the relay needs to be installed with the actuator. The harness is plugged into a dead spot behind the manual door locks. So when you pull/push the locks (manually) they would initiate the power locked to lock/unlock.

Thats just from observing the setup when my doors were off. I gave up on tearing it down to do custom power locks. Ill survive with the manual locks.

...... I did see one guy online here that did the factory locks (on his 1st gen i Sport) and cost him $1,200, buying part by part.

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?123678218-Mazda3-Base-Model-Adding-Power-Windows-and-Locks

[ptcary]

So there is at least electrical power in the door already? I bought the factory actuator, the factory replacement handle and the factory switch, too. Since I have no alarm and no RKE, I figured I could just use 12v power to the actuator controlled by the factory switch, and connect the Clifford alarm to that.


So when you pull/push the locks (manually) they would initiate the power locked to lock/unlock.

^^^This makes it sound like I don't need the factory switch at all?

[Maz94Protege]

Yea, exactly, i dont know what you would need. The link above is for a 1st gen. But my car does have some empty harness', no idea what they goto. Without a wiring diagram, i did not go further to investigate what they were for.

I just gave up....for now on the locks. maybe in a year ill find a tottalled 3 "S" and get the parts off it from the salvage yard.

[ptcary]

Yea, exactly, i dont know what you would need. The link above is for a 1st gen. But my car does have some empty harness', no idea what they goto. Without a wiring diagram, i did not go further to investigate what they were for.

I just gave up....for now on the locks. maybe in a year ill find a tottalled 3 "S" and get the parts off it from the salvage yard.

I am at the point now where I will just have to to take the door apart and see for myself. All that I have read leads me to believe that the actuator harness is there (not sure if it has power already in it or not) and that the harness for the switch is not. The switch is a 4 pin, and I don't know the pins. My plan was to install the actuator and plug in its harness and use the door handle manual lock button to see if I can tell if the actuator has power, or test that harness with a meter.

My overall plan is just to power the actuator in the door, and control it with the door switch, or door manual button, and also connect my Clifford alarm to it.

I hope I am on the right track.

[csed3]

Any information on how to install the after market kit that is for cable style door locks?! (i.e. A 2007 mazda 3i)


you can get a universal 4 door power door lock kit. They run around $50 and up, depending on what you looking for. We have a cableing lock kit system, so this means we need an adapter for each door and they are only an additional $7 per door.

Entire kit is like $75+ shipping.
Autodax is the site im going through

[Maz94Protege]

Any information on how to install the after market kit that is for cable style door locks?! (i.e. A 2007 mazda 3i)

I purchased the kit and returned it, I didn't want to cut away the plastic weather molding behind the door panel between the door frame. On older style doors it might be easier, just learned to live with the manual locks.

I did see a "how-to" online with a 1st gen 3. Do a google search and see if you can find it.

[marilynjane]

Hey All! I was following this thread b/c I wanted to get power locks for my mother-in-law, but then changed my mind because I don't want to throw her in the middle of a car project =P Anyways, I already bought the OEM front door locks, and am looking to unload them. Spent 160$, but if you are interested in going the OEM route, I would be willing to sell for 150$ OBO. I think I am going to post in some other forums, and maybe do an eBay listing, so PM me if you are interested.

Thank you!

Marilyn

"If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough." - Mario Andretti

[Maz94Protege]

Hey All! I was following this thread b/c I wanted to get power locks for my mother-in-law, but then changed my mind because I don't want to throw her in the middle of a car project =P Anyways, I already bought the OEM front door locks, and am looking to unload them. Spent 160$, but if you are interested in going the OEM route, I would be willing to sell for 150$ OBO. I think I am going to post in some other forums, and maybe do an eBay listing, so PM me if you are interested.Andretti

What all do you have? Can you send me some photos? ill PM you my email