Damn Fuel Cut?

[jbilliel]

So I recently upgraded the car to include a SMIC, hard pipes, and injen intake. The car will boost to about 8 psi max, but usually settles around 7-7.5 psi. With that said, on hot days with the AC going in traffic when I try to accelerate at say half throttle I get the damn fuel cut. It's violent so that is what it is. The car runs fine on the highway and in cooler weather. I thought the SMIC was not suppose to get heatsoaked!

What is the resolution to my problem? I still have a stock non reflashed ECU. I assume its time for a Split Second?

Any thoughts?

[stdntDrvr]

vac. leak? i would get it when it rained...i had a vac. leak on my manifold...i tried to cap off one of the nipples, but the damn cap had fallen apart.

[MAZDA_SPEED]

Fmic!! :) and these cars with the AC on dont run right, there was a thread on this..=[ windows down my friend

[stdntDrvr]

i haven't had any issues with the a/c? mine stays on thanks to the 90* heat we're having.

[KrayzieFox]

No issues with a/c here either, car runs fine.. just slower of course.

I second the vacuum leak, but even with the upgraded SMIC it's still gonna get heatsoaked cuz of it's proximity to the engine. But it also could be the unflashed ECU.. I don't know much about that but from what I've read on the forums the flash is supposed to resolve the stumbling issue which sounds a lot like what you're describing.

If you want to flash the ECU and can't get the dealer to do it for a reasonable price, talk to SpicyorangeMSP on this forum. He is able to flash your ECU to the most up to date spec and he'll just send you a new one and you send him back yours. Only $150 for the flash. Then you might as well get a SS AFC as well cuz it just makes the car feel so much better and free up a whole lot of hidden power.

[jbilliel]

No issues with a/c here either, car runs fine.. just slower of course.

I second the vacuum leak, but even with the upgraded SMIC it's still gonna get heatsoaked cuz of it's proximity to the engine. But it also could be the unflashed ECU.. I don't know much about that but from what I've read on the forums the flash is supposed to resolve the stumbling issue which sounds a lot like what you're describing.

If you want to flash the ECU and can't get the dealer to do it for a reasonable price, talk to SpicyorangeMSP on this forum. He is able to flash your ECU to the most up to date spec and he'll just send you a new one and you send him back yours. Only $150 for the flash. Then you might as well get a SS AFC as well cuz it just makes the car feel so much better and free up a whole lot of hidden power.

Its not a vacuum leak as my gauge is still showing good numbers. It has not changed.

[KrayzieFox]

What are good numbers? 20-24 inHg?

[jbilliel]

What are good numbers? 20-24 inHg?

Yup, I have a blitz but right around 22 is where I am at.

[Pez]

fmic ftw!!!! i had a buddy that had the smic get heat soaked. don't know why. He went with fmic and all that bad voodoo crap went away.

[BOOSTR]

I'd say its being unflashed. I wanted to drive my car through the dealership door right after buying and experiencing that unflashed b.s. Without correcting that and/or going to say an SSAFC, it won't matter what type of intercooler that you have when the car goes A/F nuts at times.

[Ricktalife]

isn't the reflash free?

[BOOSTR]

isn't the reflash free?

It was when your car was within the warranty period, which no msp should be in now based on years and not mileage. The dealer should only charge you for 1 hr of labor.

[Metallic36]

I would say go FMIC and get a Split Second also. You can tune a map to eliminate the fuel cut.