2006+ Mazda5 Rear Shocks Replacement

[a10thunder]

I had a blown rear shock so I went ahead and replaced it myself. Someone else posted about doing this and said it was really easy. As far as difficulty goes, it's on the level of brake pad replacement. It depends on whether you have the right tools or not. The replacement shocks I got were KYB GR-2's (Part No. 343412). You can find them online for $35 to $50 per shock.

DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible if you break something or hurt yourself while performing this procedure.

Stock shock and KYB GR-2 (silver)
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zb3xaPZbdcU/TSyHDoCDheI/AAAAAAAAAOw/N8onqGFoLlY/s800/pic01.jpg

Tools needed:

- 12mm deep socket (extension also recommended)
- 17mm socket
- 13mm wrench
- Floor jack
- Torque wrench (10 - 80 ft/lb torque range)
- Vice or pipe pliers

Step 1
Jack up the rear of the car as high as you can and place jack stands at the rear jack points.

Step 2
Remove the 2 rear wheels. You'll need access to the wheel well.

Step 3
Now you can see that the shock is held up top by 2 nuts (12mm) and a 17mm bolt at the bottom. Unscrew the two 12mm nuts up top with a 12mm deep socket. It's really hard to get a wrench in there because of the shape of the bracket. Your job will be a lot easier if you also have an extension so you don't have to reach all the way in there. As you start to loosen the nuts, there will be a lot of crap falling down. Make sure you protect your eyes and try not to breath in the stuff.

Notice all the shock oil that has leaked out from the blown shock.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zb3xaPZbdcU/TSyHD_rvpAI/AAAAAAAAAO0/Tqb_JnqOGvU/s800/pic02.jpg

Step 4
Uncrew the 17mm bolt at the bottom. A long socket wrench or a cheater bar will help out a lot here. I used a mallet to loosen the bolt.

This is a bad picture, but you can see the bolt. It's behind the disc brake. With the wheel off, you can reach the bolt without getting under the car.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zb3xaPZbdcU/TSyHEGEmLnI/AAAAAAAAAPA/KHDSV2ySuYI/s800/pic021.jpg

Step 5
Take out the shock. It takes a little wiggling, but the shock can be taken out pretty easily.

Step 6
Uncrew the 13mm screw holding the dust cover/bump stop to the shock body. This step is really easy if you have a vice. To uncrew the nut, you have to hold the rod that the nut is screwed onto stationary. Otherwise, if you try to uncrew the nut, the rod and the shock body will spin with the nut. The tip of the rod has two flat faces, so if you put the whole thing in a vice, you can easily uncrew the nut.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zb3xaPZbdcU/TSyHD5FyQFI/AAAAAAAAAO4/_gbqSiWJQ18/s800/pic03.jpg

If you don't have a vice like me, you'll have use something like pipe pliers to hold on to the rod and unscrew the nut... big PITA. This is the shock with the dust cover/bump stop off.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zb3xaPZbdcU/TSyHENcLrAI/AAAAAAAAAO8/ut6aURjJus0/s800/pic04.jpg

Step 7
Now you are ready to install the new shock. Place the old dust cover/bump stop over the new shock. My KYB's came with 12mm nuts instead of the stock 13mm. Tighten the new nut over the dust cover/bump stop.

Step 8
Place the new shock in the original rear shock location. Make sure the top and bottom mount locations are correct and thread through bottom bolt. Don't tighten this bolt just yet but make sure the bolt thread has caught and is holding the bottom of the shock in place. The new shock's rest position may not be long enough to reach to top mount location. In this case, you'll need to put the floor jack under the suspension member and raise the shock. Once the top bracket clears enough thread for the two nuts to catch, install the two 12mm nuts.

Step 9
Tighten bottom 17mm bolt (56.35-74.49 ft/lb torque from Mazda Service Manual)
Tighten top 2-12mm bolts (15.7-21.2 ft/lb torque from Mazda Service Manual)

Step 10
Put rear wheels back and lower car. Go for a test ride and enjoy your new shocks.

[065]

How's the ride quality compared to the stockers?

[nftyper]

Thank you for posting this.

[dima_rus]

Very good write up.

Admins, please Sticky this one

Thanks
Dima

[bootman]

Excellent work.
Ever think of attempting the fronts?

[a10thunder]

Ride is just like stock. I will replace the fronts if they fail. Otherwise, I like the stock setup for family hauling.

[frdaco41]

I'm new in this forum group !

I just change my Rear Shock absorber yesterday and i like to thank's
you for the " How to " It was very helpful ( i never perform mechanic in a car and i just started that and i was pretty easy ) so before going to the repair shop i will think of doing it myself !!

Do you ever done the front ? it's kinda difficult because of the spring ant the aligment that we have to check !!

regards !

[a10thunder]

frdaco41,

My fronts are fine so I haven't looked into replacing them. Doing the fronts will be tough with the coilover setup. It may not be too difficult with a spring compression tool.

[07MZ5SA]

Excellent write up.

Since it's so easy. I am thinking of replacing with MZ3 Bilstein HD shocks the first instance of 1 shock leak/failure.

[nftyper]

will be trying this pretty soon, just got my set of GR2's.

[a10thunder]

I just replaced the front struts with GR-2s as well. The fronts took a lot longer than the rears because you have to deal with the springs. It took me one day's time and a lot of patience.

[OldDave]

I just replaced the two rears on our 5 with Monroe Sensatracs; the right rear had been replaced under warranty at around 30k miles, but the left was factory original and had seen better days (the car has 72k miles, accumulated in just under three years).

No comment on the Monroe shocks at this point, but I thought I'd report it is possible to replace the shocks with the rear of the car up on ramps, tires on. Unbolting the upper brackets is a bit of a struggle and it's more effort to get the old shocks out and the new ones in, since you have to compress them up and over the lower bracket, but it can be done.

The factory service book says to replace the four 'self-locking' nuts that hold the brackets in place. I didn't notice this until I started work and so I reused the old nuts. The ones on the left were ok, but the ones on the right - which apparently were reused during the previous service - are too loose. I'll probably buy new ones this week and spend another few minutes replacing them next weekend.

[nftyper]

where the pics go?

[Robotaz]

where the pics go?

I can't see them, but I'm on my work computer and the IT geeks block photo servers.

[was98strat]

Nope, pics are gone! I'm an IT geek and have a good connection at home, they're not just gone but the red X's have been supressed too!

[nftyper]

I was able to change the shocks without the pics. But they do help alot though, hope theyre put back soon.

Rear shocks are one of the easiest things to replace in the 5, and an impact gun made it much faster.

[rhayan911]

Does 2006 and 2009 model of Mazda5 have the same rear shock absorber? Can I use also this KYB G2 shock absorber (343412) in my 2009? My rear shock is now leaking. tnx

[tefloncandi]

Is the 2006+ KYB 343412 GR-2 Shock the same for the 2009?

[musashi23]

Thanks a10 thunder. Without the great write up and pix, I would've been really hesitant to change them myself. I went to the dealer the first time it broke (r/r), but 2 weeks ago both rear shocks were broken (the shafts were broke) and I had to go out of town. I have no idea how I broke the r/r shock in 20k miles the first time, then broke again 10k miles later. I understand NYC has potholes all over, but I'm always careful avoiding them. The only thing I can think of is, I always bump the r/r tire on the sidewalk as I park on the street.

Anyone else with 3 BROKEN shocks within 32k miles?

[Rocket]

I've often thought we need to figure out which of the Ford family used the Mazda5 platform and try to see if there isn't a better choice than the stock Mazda5 shock. I seem to recall there was a Volvo model that was similar to our cars, I wonder what it used???

[greendoc]

Just replaced the rear shocks on my 07 mazda 3 (84500 miles) last night. This thread helped me out alot. It was very easy to do and only took 2 hours, i had an impact so it went smooth. Also, I put the jack in the middle of the rear end on that plate thing under the axle so it lifted both tires up, highly recommended. Tested them out today with a 2 hour drive and they feel great, exactly like it felt when I bought the car brand new. Thanks for posting!

[msimbula]

Thanks so much for this post.

FYI - I didn't see the photos in the IE or Firefox browsers, but when I cut and pasted the instructions into MS Word, the photos appeared. Not sure what's going on, but give it a shot if you cant see them.

[a10thunder]

Thanks for the comments msimbula. I uploaded the pics to a free image hosting site and thought they were lost for good. Looks like the problem is just scrambled links. I have updated the links to all the original images.

I think Mazda underspec'd the 5. They used a lot of parts from the '04-'05 Mazda3i. While the suspension may be sufficient for the sedan, the setup is not up to the task of suspending a heavier vehicle that can hold up to 6 adults.

[Franzy]

Hey a10thunder; do you remember seeing the thread about someone using a different rear setup on the 06 (and other year's also) that would allow the rear tires to ACTUALLY be vertical and not the slight lean in (camber)? I thought there was one, but I haven't been able to find it yet.
Thanks in advance.

[a10thunder]

Do you mean this thread?

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123779206-Updated-rear-suspension-piece-for-excessive-tire-wear&daysprune=-1

[Franzy]

Think this one is better than the original one I was looking for. Thanks.

[johnnydee]

Franzy: After reading about the problem on these forums, I replaced the cams on mine with some aftermarket adjustable ones, I was having the tire wear problem coupled with a strange vibration noise at highway speed. The cams were a $1200 fix installed, but it took another shot in the dark (rear bearings) to fix the vibration. That was 2 years ago, no problems since till now: I've got a blown rear shock, so I'm glad to have this thread to give me the encouragement to change them myself since I'm having trouble scraping together the cash to drop the several hundred bux my mechanic would charge me to do it.

[wmzda5]

Franzy: After reading about the problem on these forums, I replaced the cams on mine with some aftermarket adjustable ones, I was having the tire wear problem coupled with a strange vibration noise at highway speed. The cams were a $1200 fix installed, but it took another shot in the dark (rear bearings) to fix the vibration. That was 2 years ago, no problems since till now: I've got a blown rear shock, so I'm glad to have this thread to give me the encouragement to change them myself since I'm having trouble scraping together the cash to drop the several hundred bux my mechanic would charge me to do it.

Cams? or camber links? SPC camber links can be had on ebay for 100 bucks I got mine included with progress lowering springs for 100 canadian. Installation is $40/corner = $80. I had my alignment guy to install it.

For rear shocks why not try monroe oes these are the same as the sensa trac only for JDM cars. it way cheaper than the GR2 for almost half the price. If I buy anything more expensive than these I go for Konis. And also make sure you change both rear shocks at the same time, our car have RSB so even if one shock blows you might not easily notice it but the load is being transferred to the good shock and even if you replace the bad one eventually the old one will break soon enough. So save yourself the trouble and at least replace both and enjoy the ride of 2 brand new shocks.

At first I did not install it as the alignment is still ok within specs when I went for alignment. But after 2 years the spring settled and was lower than before, and I am experiencing wear at the rears. When I got an alignment the camber is off so I installed the kit (good thing I didnt sell it). Now everything is ok and setup at the middle of the alignment spec range. Rear toe ins are adjusted at mid of specs, no more noticeable rubbere powder on the rear panel only the noise because of the initial abnormal wear. i can live with that.

[bassman0526]

I am unable to get the car high enough off of the grounds to remove the shocks. Is there a shock compression tool?


I had a blown rear shock so I went ahead and replaced it myself. Someone else posted about doing this and said it was really easy. As far as difficulty goes, it's on the level of brake pad replacement. It depends on whether you have the right tools or not. The replacement shocks I got were KYB GR-2's (Part No. 343412). You can find them online for $35 to $50 per shock.

DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible if you break something or hurt yourself while performing this procedure.

Stock shock and KYB GR-2 (silver)
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zb3xaPZbdcU/TSyHDoCDheI/AAAAAAAAAOw/N8onqGFoLlY/s800/pic01.jpg

Tools needed:

- 12mm deep socket (extension also recommended)
- 17mm socket
- 13mm wrench
- Floor jack
- Torque wrench (10 - 80 ft/lb torque range)
- Vice or pipe pliers

Step 1
Jack up the rear of the car as high as you can and place jack stands at the rear jack points.

Step 2
Remove the 2 rear wheels. You'll need access to the wheel well.

Step 3
Now you can see that the shock is held up top by 2 nuts (12mm) and a 17mm bolt at the bottom. Unscrew the two 12mm nuts up top with a 12mm deep socket. It's really hard to get a wrench in there because of the shape of the bracket. Your job will be a lot easier if you also have an extension so you don't have to reach all the way in there. As you start to loosen the nuts, there will be a lot of crap falling down. Make sure you protect your eyes and try not to breath in the stuff.

Notice all the shock oil that has leaked out from the blown shock.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zb3xaPZbdcU/TSyHD_rvpAI/AAAAAAAAAO0/Tqb_JnqOGvU/s800/pic02.jpg

Step 4
Uncrew the 17mm bolt at the bottom. A long socket wrench or a cheater bar will help out a lot here. I used a mallet to loosen the bolt.

This is a bad picture, but you can see the bolt. It's behind the disc brake. With the wheel off, you can reach the bolt without getting under the car.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zb3xaPZbdcU/TSyHEGEmLnI/AAAAAAAAAPA/KHDSV2ySuYI/s800/pic021.jpg

Step 5
Take out the shock. It takes a little wiggling, but the shock can be taken out pretty easily.

Step 6
Uncrew the 13mm screw holding the dust cover/bump stop to the shock body. This step is really easy if you have a vice. To uncrew the nut, you have to hold the rod that the nut is screwed onto stationary. Otherwise, if you try to uncrew the nut, the rod and the shock body will spin with the nut. The tip of the rod has two flat faces, so if you put the whole thing in a vice, you can easily uncrew the nut.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zb3xaPZbdcU/TSyHD5FyQFI/AAAAAAAAAO4/_gbqSiWJQ18/s800/pic03.jpg

If you don't have a vice like me, you'll have use something like pipe pliers to hold on to the rod and unscrew the nut... big PITA. This is the shock with the dust cover/bump stop off.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zb3xaPZbdcU/TSyHENcLrAI/AAAAAAAAAO8/ut6aURjJus0/s800/pic04.jpg

Step 7
Now you are ready to install the new shock. Place the old dust cover/bump stop over the new shock. My KYB's came with 12mm nuts instead of the stock 13mm. Tighten the new nut over the dust cover/bump stop.

Step 8
Place the new shock in the original rear shock location. Make sure the top and bottom mount locations are correct and thread through bottom bolt. Don't tighten this bolt just yet but make sure the bolt thread has caught and is holding the bottom of the shock in place. The new shock's rest position may not be long enough to reach to top mount location. In this case, you'll need to put the floor jack under the suspension member and raise the shock. Once the top bracket clears enough thread for the two nuts to catch, install the two 12mm nuts.

Step 9
Tighten bottom 17mm bolt (56.35-74.49 ft/lb torque from Mazda Service Manual)
Tighten top 2-12mm bolts (15.7-21.2 ft/lb torque from Mazda Service Manual)

Step 10
Put rear wheels back and lower car. Go for a test ride and enjoy your new shocks.

[Davebert]

I am unable to get the car high enough off of the grounds to remove the shocks. Is there a shock compression tool?

You should be able to slid it out, it might take some wiggling but it can be done. You do not need a compressor to shorten the shock, it can be done by hand and does not take much pressure.

[hobbes79]

Great guide. First shock took me 3-hours due to zooming back and forth to the hardware store to get the right tools. Second one took just 25-mins! My own fault for not paying enough attention to the list of tools and getting a bit unlucky on the bottom bolt that was on so tight I was forced to buy a longer wrench to get the leverage I needed.

One tip: To grip on to the central rod when getting the dust cover off, use mole grips if you have them, rather than pliers. I did this on the second one and it was MUCH easier since you're not use a bunch of strength to hold that and undo the nut.

[mrmazda5]

Just replaced my rear shock on a 2009 Mazda5 with KYB shocks. Just follow the pics in the thread it took me 2hours very simple process 4 bolts on each side. Only thing I want to add since I had to figure this out you need to remove the dust cover from the rubber boot. Just pull apart. I used a vise to remove the nut from the shock. Have fun!

[DurhamProPhoto]

Just a couple of questions, I need to replace the rear shocks on my 06 Mazda 5. Would it not be easier to access the top nut by removing the side cup holder. Also, will the car need an alignment after I remove the shock? Thanks

[a10thunder]

Just a couple of questions, I need to replace the rear shocks on my 06 Mazda 5. Would it not be easier to access the top nut by removing the side cup holder. Also, will the car need an alignment after I remove the shock? Thanks

I'm not sure what a "side cup holder" is. The easiest way to remove the top nut is with something that can hold the flat faces of the rod stationary (like a vice).

IMO, you do not need an alignment after replacing just the shocks. The suspension geometry stays the same with the stock springs.

[DurhamProPhoto]

Sorry, bad typing on my part. If you lift out the interior rear (drink)cup holder in the side panel just above the wheel well, is that not the nut for the top of the shock? If that is the case, I would think you could save time by undoing the nut there and not have to remove the rusted nuts underneath that are holding the shock mount.

[Robotaz]

Sorry, bad typing on my part. If you lift out the interior rear (drink)cup holder in the side panel just above the wheel well, is that not the nut for the top of the shock? If that is the case, I would think you could save time by undoing the nut there and not have to remove the rusted nuts underneath that are holding the shock mount.

I've heard that before. Can't confirm it though.

[a10thunder]

I don't think accessing the shock from the inside will make the process that much easier. You may be able to stay cleaner though.

[thaxman]

Guess we are spoiled here in AZ, b/c all my bolts were clean and rust free. I would recommend remaining in the wheel well unless you have really bad rust. But then, wouldn't it be better to break those bolts free every once in awhile rather than letting them fester in their rust until they become one piece? I had no probs at all with an 8" extension, and I bet a decent breaker bar would make easy work of the rust.

[Robotaz]

Guess we are spoiled here in AZ, b/c all my bolts were clean and rust free. I would recommend remaining in the wheel well unless you have really bad rust. But then, wouldn't it be better to break those bolts free every once in awhile rather than letting them fester in their rust until they become one piece? I had no probs at all with an 8" extension, and I bet a decent breaker bar would make easy work of the rust.

Spoiled in southern AZ. I lived in Flagstaff for 8 years and everything I owned turned to rust or dust.

[skyhawk]

do you think top shock mount need replacement too? I mean its got rubber in it and if its not that expensive, might be worth replacing them.

[a10thunder]

do you think top shock mount need replacement too? I mean its got rubber in it and if its not that expensive, might be worth replacing them.

Unless the rubber bump stop is cracking, I don't see a reason. If you buy OEM replacement, it'll probably come with the dustcover/bump stop.

[DurhamProPhoto]

Well I just finished replacing the two rear shocks on my 5 with Monroes. It was a piece of cake once I figured out where to put the floor jack. Air tools took the nuts and bolts off in no time. Right side took about 40 minutes and left side, once I had it figured out took about 20 minutes for a total time of one hour. Mazda dealer was going to charge me 3 hours labour and $150 per shock for a total price just over $600 with tax. The shocks that I put on cost me $49. each and are guaranteed for life. Thank You a10thunder for posting this most helpful topic. Cheers!

[ganue]

Here is a good step by step video for swapping the shocks if the pictures don't quite do it for us Mazda 5 owners:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9CFer1JLY0&feature=feedbul

[Bluesideup]

Are you guys that installed the KYBs or Monroes happy with them? I am considering a set for our van since my wife won't be able to tell the difference between KYBs and Konis. If it were my vehicle I'd be installing Konis but she'll freak out about the cost more than anything. I'd just like to restore the ride and avoid cupping the new tires I just had installed.

I also thought about installing some Mazda3 Bilsteins but again you end up at the same $750 that the FSDs cost.

[F1 Rox]

Just want to share my experience...

http://dc148.4shared.com/img/7_qTjljK/koni1.jpg (http://www.4shared.com/photo/7_qTjljK/koni1.html)

http://dc403.4shared.com/img/TarkkBqK/0.6332846736968453/koni2.jpg (http://www.4shared.com/photo/TarkkBqK/koni2.html)

[schnellschnell]

I replaced the rears on mine with Koni FSDs. Can't really report on the ride as my fronts are still blown... those will be done on Friday weather permitting.

Anyhow - one important piece of information that I didn't see covered here - the bottom bushing on the rear strut needs to be tightened when the rear wheel is at it's normal ride height position. That means don't tighten it when the car is up on stands. These type of bushings need to be tightened when in their normal position. The rubber will bend and flex as needed when the suspension moves, but if you tighten them when it is fully extended they will be twisted too far when you go over bumps possibly causing the bushing to wear prematurely. Indeed the Koni instructions tell you to tighten the bottom bolt when car is resting on all 4 wheels.

What I did was to measure the space between the fender lip and the top of the rim. Then before fully tightening the bolt I use a jack to lift the wheel into position by measuring, and then tightening it the last bit.

I am probably not describing it very well so I found some online links that do a better job.

"To answer your specific question; Yes, to properly install and tighten mounting fasteners for suspension bushings, the suspension must be in its regular ride height position prior to the final application of torque to any bushing hinge point. If the vehicle is on a hoist, the suspension will be in its full rebound, or downward, position. Once the car is on the ground, the bushings will be forced into a twisted position as the weight of the car bears down on the bushings. This will increase the ride height and not allow the bushings to flex into their normal jounce (upward motion) position when the suspension needs to absorb a bump. This puts added stress on the bushings and adversely affects the alignment of the front suspension, which will create steering and control problems. "
from http://m.theglobeandmail.com/globe-drive/car-tips/maintenance-and-repairs/why-the-days-of-diy-car-repairs-are-over/article2106775/?service=mobile

and

"When the components are tightened against their "natural" position of a loaded suspension, and then forced into the loaded suspension, the rubber must stretch into this new position. Therefore, the rubber is essentially ALWAYS under stress and wears out prematurely. My theory is that the rubber is not stretching ALL the way and my ride is higher than it should be. I'm hoping to find out that YES, this is what's going on, before I spend money on an alignment after doing what joe p suggests. Furthermore, if the rubber has been stretched for 60Kmi then maybe I should just pony up the money for new links in rear , yuk yuk and then get an alignment..."
from http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/48898-when-bushings-tightened-off-ground.html

Very important to do this. If you have already tightened, you can just lift up on ramps and loosen the bolts a bit and re-tighten. I am not a mechanic professionally so perform at your own risk.

Jason

[Davebert]

I changed the rear shocks last year and was driving on the expressway and hit a bump. After that there was a lot of clanking coming from the driver rear side. I got home and found the rear shock mount was broken. When I changed the shocks last year I did not pay any attention to the shock mounts, maybe I should had given them a closer look and clean the corrosion with a wire brush. I might had spotted the defect on that broken mount then and changed it.

I when to my local garage to see if they can replace it. Where I am in Canada snow tires are mandatory and the deadline is Dec. 13 so they were backed up till then. The mechanic also told me he has replaced a few of them on Mazda 3's and the dealer will only sell the mount and shock as one part. To my surprise that was true.

Anyways I was able to find just the mount from Rockauto, the part number is Doorman 337 924-412. I just got the parts yesterday and installed myself. The good part is the wheel does not have to come off in order to replace the mount if you use hand tools, but the car has to be jacked up so the wheel can drop down a bit to create more room and make thing easier.

Here is a couple of picture of the broken mount, it seems that there has been a crack on the right side for a while by the look of the corrosion. Once the right side broke the left side when also.

http://i44.tinypic.com/97sbkj.jpg

http://i44.tinypic.com/flyrno.jpg

[phunky.buddha]

Wow, that looks pretty brittle. I'm glad I ordered coilovers with replacement mounts instead of shocks that would require reusing the factory mounts...

[wendy93089]

i have a 2007 mazda5 with 65000 miles on it. i took it to the mazda dealer because their was weird noise coming from the back. they told me the rear shocks needed to be replaced and the sway bar due to age of bushings. what exactly does that mean. they wanted to charge me $600 to get the job done. what are good shocks to buy online and do i have to buy sway bar link or bushings? thanks

[phunky.buddha]

Cheapest decent rear shocks? Looks like about $83 shipped for a pair of KYB GR-2s:
http://www.amazon.com/KYB-343412-GR-2-Shock/dp/B000IY9T1O/ref=au_pf_pfg_s?ie=UTF8&Model=5|2828&n=15684181&s=automotive&Make=Mazda|80&Year=2007|2007&vehicleType=automotive&newCar=1&carId=001

Easy to replace on your own as long as you have a jack, jack stands, and ratchet/sockets.

Sway bar bushings are relatively cheap too (just two pieces, can usually buy for about $20 or less @ AutoZone), and are mounted underneath 2 D shaped brackets. Pretty easy to change too.

[DKaz]

Lol I was in the process of installing my driver side rear shocks, took the wheel off and noticed the shock was dangling there. The upper shock mount had broken to three pieces much like Davebert's. I wonder how long I've been driving like that? I've got new ones coming today.