K&N Typhoon Air Intake

[Khasmordan]

I was wondering if the K&N Typhoon Air Intake is compatible with my 2008 mazdaspeed 3. I have not had it for that long and I called K&N and spoke with one of their phone techs and he did could not recommend it since it was listed for the 2007 model only, yet when I go to HERE (http://www.jscspeed.com/mazdaspeed3/intake/kn_typhoon_ms3.htm) JSCspeed states that it is compatible (same p/n on both sites). Just trying to get a second opinion so I can decide what to get.

If anyone else has anything else to add about this product as well, please feel free, its nice to be an informed consumer and not feel like an (butt) by not doing your research.

[Darth Vader]

I'd stick with a company more experienced with import intakes, AEM, Injen, even Cobb or CP-E if you want short ram. The Cobb style SRI will boost your low end, making the car more exciting but slower, due to increased wheelspin. The CAI will erase some of the top end flatness of this engine, for greater initial cost.

[eg6motion]

it will fit, 2007-2009 MS3 intakes = same.

[Khasmordan]

I'd stick with a company more experienced with import intakes, AEM, Injen, even Cobb or CP-E if you want short ram. The Cobb style SRI will boost your low end, making the car more exciting but slower, due to increased wheelspin. The CAI will erase some of the top end flatness of this engine, for greater initial cost.

I read a lot of info about adding a CAI instead of a SRI, the CAI seems like an overall better choice but I am worried about the possibility of sucking up some water. I know this topic has been (deadhorse on these forums. I talked to a friend of mine with a WRX and he has had 2 friends with the same car had their cars screw up using CAI's.

This is a brand new car for me and I don't want to eff it up with aftermarket parts that are going to make me go (argh)

[Blendercloud]

I read a lot of info about adding a CAI instead of a SRI, the CAI seems like an overall better choice but I am worried about the possibility of sucking up some water. I know this topic has been (deadhorse on these forums. I talked to a friend of mine with a WRX and he has had 2 friends with the same car had their cars screw up using CAI's.

This is a brand new car for me and I don't want to eff it up with aftermarket parts that are going to make me go (argh)

The difference between a CAI and SRI on a turbocharged car are negligable. The turbo is going to compress, and thus heat up, the air post-intake. The minor temperature difference in what you're bringing in through the SRI versus a CAI is negated by just that.

With that said, I hope someone who is currently using one of these Typhoon intakes chimes in. I'm interested to hear about their experience. The thing certainly looks ood enough.

[CWPspeed3]

I'd stick with a company more experienced with import intakes, AEM, Injen, even Cobb or CP-E if you want short ram. The Cobb style SRI will boost your low end, making the car more exciting but slower, due to increased wheelspin. The CAI will erase some of the top end flatness of this engine, for greater initial cost.

Its strange a buddy and i are dead even until high speeds where i start to walk away with the sri...

Anyway you decide to go will be a big improvement over the stock air box.

[Captain KRM P5]

i've sold a few of these. you're paying for the name. there are equally as good if not better intakes (like ours :)) on the market for far less money.

[Khasmordan]

i've sold a few of these. you're paying for the name. there are equally as good if not better intakes (like ours :)) on the market for far less money.

I looked at your in house intake and it looks like a good option. Any chance it can be powdercoated red? If so, how much would this cost?

[leadf00t]

I have one of those intakes Ken is referring to. You are paying more for the name, but it is the name that will keep any grief from your dealer to a minimum should you be in for warranty work. Everyone knows who K&N is, well there are probably some who dont, but you get my drift. On to the intake itself, it is not a very loud intake by any means. There is a noticeable gain in the midrange, and I have not had any problem with mine in the 3 months it's been on the car. It sounds great with a forge bpv. Also it mounts to one of the bpv bolts & not the battery tray. The heat shield mounts to the battery tray, and the front of the car as well. Very solid. The only thing about this, and the other intakes (except Cobb SRI - MSCAI/AEMCAI) to keep in mind is, if you are looking at getting an AP at some point, the OTS maps are not setup to work with them. I have the AP with mine, and my ltft's are on the rich side, but the car runs great, my gas mileage is a little worse, but were talking 20-30 miles to a tank. At some point I am going to get an E-tune, or mess with ATR to get it dialed in. If you live in a place where you could get it dyno tuned then you dont have to worry. Me living in the middle of IA, well my route is going to be more complicated. Mine is an 2008.5, so it does fit.

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa16/leadf00t/IMG_1223.jpg

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa16/leadf00t/IMG_1222.jpg

[Captain KRM P5]

excellent photos leadf00t. now all you need is an inlet to help bring those LTFTs in line ;)

[Blendercloud]

excellent photos leadf00t. now all you need is an inlet to help bring those LTFTs in line ;)

Like I've said on the MS6 boards, upgrading the intake on these cars is like drinking out of a bigger glass. The problem is, the straw you're using is still the same size. If you remove that heavily-restrictive OEM inlet pipe (the straw) it'll be like shotgunning a beer.

It just does not make sense to upgrade the intake and not the inlet pipe.

[CWPspeed3]

Like I've said on the MS6 boards, upgrading the intake on these cars is like drinking out of a bigger glass. The problem is, the straw you're using is still the same size. If you remove that heavily-restrictive OEM inlet pipe (the straw) it'll be like shotgunning a beer.

It just does not make sense to upgrade the intake and not the inlet pipe.

I agree, the stock turbo inlet is squashed plastic that i have no idea how you get good air flows through. An aftermarket inlet should go hand in hand with the intake.

[Zimmer]

any affect on AFR's or LTFT's since its aft MAF sensor?

[Blendercloud]

any affect on AFR's or LTFT's since its aft MAF sensor?

An intake without an inlet pipe should yield pretty crappy LTFT's.

[Zimmer]

I've read that ... just wondered besides improving efficiency of the airflow what are folks logging with the TIP?
thread jacking!!!!(five-0)

[leadf00t]

excellent photos leadf00t. now all you need is an inlet to help bring those LTFTs in line ;)

Thanks, Ken. Yeah it's on my short list.

[Blendercloud]

I've read that ... just wondered besides improving efficiency of the airflow what are folks logging with the TIP?
thread jacking!!!!(five-0)

My LTFT's with my mods (see signature) are ~2.5 cruising speed, ~5 at half throttle acceleration, with jumps to 8.5-9 at WOT.

[Khasmordan]

Well, that kind of makes up my mind, I will get the Cobb SRI and Turbo Inlet.(burnout)

Now I just need to find someone here in Cincinnati with the Cobb AP after I get them installed.

[CWPspeed3]

Well, that kind of makes up my mind, I will get the Cobb SRI and Turbo Inlet.(burnout)

While the mod bug has already got you upgrade the BPV while your at it.

[Blendercloud]

Well, that kind of makes up my mind, I will get the Cobb SRI and Turbo Inlet.(burnout)

Now I just need to find someone here in Cincinnati with the Cobb AP after I get them installed.

Keep in mind that Ken at Protege Garage makes a SRI and TIP as well. I've not used either of them, but many of the MS6 guys have said they are quality parts. It's something to consider at least, and may save you some money as well.

[Captain KRM P5]

Keep in mind that Ken at Protege Garage makes a SRI and TIP as well. I've not used either of them, but many of the MS6 guys have said they are quality parts. It's something to consider at least, and may save you some money as well.

thanks (wiggle)

[Khasmordan]

While the mod bug has already got you upgrade the BPV while your at it.

I feel like such a noob, what does BPV stand for?

[cboney]

BPV is a Bypass Valve.

Is there any kind of air straightener in the K&N intake??

[leadf00t]

BPV is a Bypass Valve.

Is there any kind of air straightener in the K&N intake??

No.

[Khasmordan]

BPV is a Bypass Valve.

What is the Bypass Valve for? This is my first car and a lot of the terminology is new too me.

[Blendercloud]

What is the Bypass Valve for? This is my first car and a lot of the terminology is new too me.

When your turbo is making boost, it will continue to make boost for a slight moment after the engine revs slow down. With the engine revs slowing, it cannot take the volume of boost that is being pushed to it. As the volume increases, the pressure increases. The bypass valve (BPV) opens at a specified pressure and recirculates that boosted air into the intake, post Mass-Airflow Sensor (MAF).

In short, it is a method of adding efficiency to our turbo setup.

[Mid_Life_Crisis]

In short, it is a method of adding efficiency to our turbo setup.

Additional info here.
It isn`t just a matter of efficiency. It can be argued that a BPV is more efficient than a BOV (blow off valve, which dumps the extra air to the atmosphere), but that isn`t the main point. Under pressure, you have a greater volume of air. When you lift off the gas, the ECU closes the throttle and reduces fuel. If you still have that high volume of air trying to go through the engine without the matching fuel, very bad things can happen.
So the valve is also (arguably primarily) a safety feature to help keep your engine in one piece.

[Blendercloud]

Yea, I avoided the term "safety" because I didn't want to start a VTA war. There's enough of them on this site already. :)

Thanks for pickin' up the slack!

[Captain KRM P5]

BPV is a Bypass Valve.

Is there any kind of air straightener in the K&N intake??

the corksport intake does not have one either.

[Khasmordan]

When your turbo is making boost, it will continue to make boost for a slight moment after the engine revs slow down. With the engine revs slowing, it cannot take the volume of boost that is being pushed to it. As the volume increases, the pressure increases. The bypass valve (BPV) opens at a specified pressure and recirculates that boosted air into the intake, post Mass-Airflow Sensor (MAF).

In short, it is a method of adding efficiency to our turbo setup.

It seems like this is a good idea, better than a BOV. Does the stock 2008 Mazdaspeed 3 GT come with an OEM one or would I have to get my own? Even if I look at getting the PG SRI, PG Turbo Inlet, and a BPV or BOV, thats going to be around 420 bucks, this is getting expensive and fast...

[MSMS3]

All MS3's come with a stock BPV. Some of us (self included) run modded intakes and exhaust with the stock BPV with excellent results. Some stock BPV's have been shown to leak. Others do not. Mine does not leak. You would need a manual boost gauge or data logging device like Dash Hawk, or at least borrow one to see if your BPV is holding boost. If it is, you don't need to spend the money on a replacement.

If you do decide to replace, aftermarket BPV's also recirculate the air back to the intake, as it should be.

Aftermarket BOV's either vent to air (not so good), or can be configured to recirculate back to the intake. In recirc mode they serve the same purpose as the BPV. Some of them make unique sounds some owners like. Those sounds identify the owner as having a particular brand of BOV. Others (self included) find the extra and different sounds not to our liking and don't care for the attention they draw -- "look at me, look at what I have on my car."

Get a boost gauge or Dash Hawk. Gauge is cheaper. DH more versatile but more expensive. You need that anyway. Spend your money on that and a good intake. K&N makes good stuff. I run a K&N "Air Charger" on my SUV and have K&N short ram type cone filters on two other vehicles.

But for our application, I personally think that a true cold air intake works better (not trying to start another CAI v. SRI war, but must say something on the subject here). Under hood temps can reach 170 degrees easily when sitting in traffic or driving slowly. It takes about 15-20 seconds for the engine to recover from that even when speeding up and getting ambient air coming through the radiator core into the engine bay.

Rule of thumb is that each rise in temp of 10-11 degrees F. robs you of 1% horsepower. So for the first 15-20 seconds, at least, after pulling away from a stop, you can be as much as 70-80 degrees up on temp and down as much as 7-8% on power. That's at least 18 horses at the crank, 15 at the front wheels.