Installing Forge BPV...broke bolt going into manifold.

[Speedfreak1120]

Hey everyone,
So, i was in the process of installing the forge BPV, things seemed to be going pretty swimmingly, old valve came out easy, reconnected the tubing, etc. I inserted the bottom bolt first, gave it maybe 3 quick ratchets to just hold it in place. I went to insert the top bolt, no problems, until about a 1/4 of the way through ratcheting the bolt in, the GOD DAMN BOLT SNAPS IN HALF(smash).

Of course, I panic, start screaming and throwing shit. I called my gearhead uncle to come and look. He tells me that the threads inside the manifold end were stripped. Im going tomorrow morning at 6:30 to have a guy remove the stuck bolt and re-tap the thread. He says that it shouldnt be a problem, but of course I am still bugging the F out.

I'm relatively new to modding, having only helped a friend install an intake in his STI (800whp monster, but thats for another thread). I really hope i did not do any permanent damage.

Any advice is good advice.

Good looking out.

-Ryan

[Circle9]

Sounds like you were torquing the bolts down too hard. You aren't the first one I've heard of doing the same thing though. I've always used "feel" for how tight a bolt should be, and I've never stripped or snapped one yet. You might want to try a torque wrench for future installations (thumb)

[karl hungus]

torque wrench, mister musclely arms!

http://www.brothatsmint.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/03/familyguybestofherbert.jpg

[GoFast]

abilor jr!

[essejkcamraw]

shit happens. i was goin through a period of changing my bov/bpv's a lot an my top bolt also tried to strip on me, but i said fuck you and didnt let it happen....shes good now. (cheers) good luck

[Kain]

abilor jr!
I knew this was coming, and yet I still lawl'd.

[MS3 GT]

it happened to me be4...only happens on the lower bolt..

[Speedfreak1120]

abilor jr!
?(gossip)?

[ElGaspo]

Originally Posted by GoFast
abilor jr!


me too ????
Q'est-ce que c'est? (huh)(huh)

[714ms3]

Happened to me on the lower bolt also. Mine was not even fully in when it snapped either. Seems as though Mazda is using some crappy bolts there. On a brighter note: the dealer fixed it free of charge and did not even notice that the BOV was aftermarket.

[ElSpeedDiablo]

Yea, I been changing my bov in the past 3 months over and over again. Same thing happened to me just go to Mazda and they sell the bolt, it's like a few bucks.

[mattj3636]

i snapped the one of the 4 bolts holding my AC compressor in, the lower left one look at it from the front of that, in order to fix that, i have to pull the compressor, and in order to that, i have to pull the radiator, well according to my shop manual, in order to drill and tap into it, so right now im riding around with 3 bolts holding my compressor on haha...

your fix is easy

[mr_mazda329]

The Tq. isnt much on those little bolts. Something like 75 in/lbs

[Kain]

Some of you hamfisted shade tree mechanics need to be made aware itty bitty bolts like those on the BPV flange have very low torque specs.

[GoFast]

I knew this was coming, and yet I still lawl'd.

it's almost timeless isn't it?? (laugh)


?(gossip)?


me too ????
Q'est-ce que c'est? (huh)(huh)

Abilor... (http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123732725&highlight=meet+abilor)

[Speedfreak1120]

So, went to my uncles boys shop, he drilled out the bolt (he said the bolts are absolute garbage and could not believe that mazda was using such low quality bolts). He rethreaded the hole (apparenty i "cold welded" the threads) and decided to use a larger gauge stud, with a titanium locking nut on the end. I like the valve, although i am hearing far less "ping" than I thought I would. I'm running the blue spring with one shim, but i think i may go to the yellow with no shims because I have no other mods completed at the time. Good idea, bad idea?

[mazdaspeedster3]

You dont have an intake, just the BPV? Yellow w/two if you want I guess or just blue with no shims.

[Speedfreak1120]

Long story with the intake but I had a cobb SRI, decided I wanted to go CAI. Just havent had time to reorder. BTW, I'm running blue with no shims now. Will try yellow w/ 2 later. Ill post some photos of the frankenstein studs later this weekend.

[GoFast]

try blue with one. I think that is what most people are running and recommend including Patty. do a search for "forge" in the ms3 and you will find plenty

[detonnation]

The bolts are very soft , I guess because they are going into aluminum? I did the same thing to the TMIC cover, bolting it back on and I like tight.. snap! So just go to firm, not tight.... like I like my ladies :) Well... Im married so...
And I had no top of the bolt sticking above and spent the next day drilling out the bolt.
Mike

[Sport6]

try blue with one. I think that is what most people are running and recommend including Patty. do a search for "forge" in the ms3 and you will find plenty


That info is really only applicable to the VW/Audi 1.8T engine. Here is my generic cut and paste MS3/6 reply to spring questions:

"Vacuum alone is enough to lift the piston in our valve even with our stiffest spring so the valve will open regardless of boost pressure with any of the springs. The only issue comes in very specific instances when manifold vacuum and charge pipe pressure are both very close to atmospheric and the pressure differential between the two are so low that the valve will "flutter" open and closed as that differential cycles back and forth around the pressure needed to crack the spring. Nothign to worry about as the forces involved are very low. That being said, here is my cut and paste "spring" reply:

The springs are used to account for variances in atmospheric conditions, and the relationship between boost and vacuum that different cars will see. To simplify it greatly the more boost that you are running the stiffer a base spring pressure you will need to compensate for the pressure differential between the manifold and the charge piping right at initial boost onset. Cars with few modifications running at or near factory boost seem to respond best with the yellow or blue springs. Cars running a bit more boost the blue and a few shims. The red spring is best used on cars running upper teens or low twenties.

That out of the way let me quickly go over how to adjust the valve. I recommend using three different spring tensions and performing some real world testing. Say for instance the yellow, blue, and blue with shims. Drive normally for a few miles (part throttle shifting, stop and go, merging and passing for some wide open data) then do a few wide open throttle runs. Do this with all three setups and compare the results, with "seat of the pants" or with data logging. If there is no difference use the softest setup. If the middle seems best that is the setup to use, if the stiffest works best perform the same tests with the next stiffest and compare.

That is the more complex answer. The easy quick answer is "use the blue spring if the cars is modified, if the car seems sluggish add two shims to the valve". 95% of the cars out there using the valve are using the blue spring.

Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions."

I run yellow with 1 shim but think I am going to experiment a bit.

[GoFast]

^exactly...thanks Zach

[Speedfreak1120]

Update: I dropped in the yellow w/ 2 shims... the car seems to like that setup a bit more. But, I am still getting nearly no noticeable difference in "sound" from the oem valve... no ping at all? I have the stock airbox, but shouldnt I be hearing the signature forge sound?

[ElSpeedDiablo]

Nope, you need an intake in order to really hear the forge. As soon as you get any intake though it will get a lot louder. I'm running the cobb sri and it sounds pretty loud, but I'm also running a cobb inlet.

[08cosmic3]

I did not break the bolt but I did strip the hole and had to retap it. This is very common when installing the Forge due to the Forge flange being thicker and the bolt hole does not go straight in but angles toward the valve. The thicker flange with the straight hole causes the bolt to start out crooked and results in the bolt breaking or the hole being stripped. I reemed the bottom hole in my forge out slightly and it works great now.

Ok Kain, reemed, hole, forged. I expect something witty.

Blue with two for me. This set up is not the best for daily driving as it holds boost when you don't want it, causing jerkyness at times, but when you get on it it holds boost between shifts and goes like a MOFO. I have tried blue no shims and it is smoother but just did not seem to have that edge that it does with 2 shims.

[GoFast]

I did not break the bolt but I did strip the hole and had to retap it. This is very common when installing the Forge due to the Forge flange being thicker and the bolt hole does not go straight in but angles toward the valve. The thicker flange with the straight hole causes the bolt to start out crooked and results in the bolt breaking or the hole being stripped. I reemed the bottom hole in my forge out slightly and it works great now.

Ok Kain, reemed, hole, forged. I expect something witty.

Blue with two for me. This set up is not the best for daily driving as it holds boost when you don't want it, causing jerkyness at times, but when you get on it it holds boost between shifts and goes like a MOFO. I have tried blue no shims and it is smoother but just did not seem to have that edge that it does with 2 shims.

Something about how your hole got reemed by a forged rod?

[Nliiitend1]

The bolts are very soft , I guess because they are going into aluminum? I did the same thing to the TMIC cover, bolting it back on and I like tight.. snap! So just go to firm, not tight.... like I like my ladies :) Well... Im married so...
And I had no top of the bolt sticking above and spent the next day drilling out the bolt.
Mike


BINGO! (thumb)

Thank God for the Heli-Coil. ;)

[jeff4880]

I installed my Forge BPV last night and I found the problem with the bolt alignment to be the connection for the recirc tube to be slightly diffrent from stock. I installed mine with out the tube connected and it bolted right on no trouble at all. Then I removed the valve and connected the tube with out the clamp and wiggled it back into place wile turning the bolts then I put the clamp into place.

having no idea what to use for springs or shims I just added 2 shims to the yellow spring? I will try the blue/no shims later today.