DIY front wheel bearing/hub replacement?

[curls]

Has anyone here done a wheel bearing and hub replacement on a Mazda3 before? My mother-in-law's 3 needs the RF bearing replaced (the LF was replaced at the dealership a few months ago, and now the RF one is dying as well).
From my contact at a Mazda dealer, I know the replacement part is a hub and bearing assembly, so I shouldn't need a shop press. I will be changing all 4 rotors and all brake pads next week on the same car, so I might as well do the wheel bearing while that corner is disassembled.

How difficult is this? More specifically, will I need any special service tools? I have all the required sockets, an impact wrench if needed, torque wrenches, etc... but no ball joint popper ("pickle fork"), no shop press, etc. What is required besides normal tools?

Thanks,
Eric

[curls]

To add to this a bit, here's the page from the shop service manual for this job: http://www.thaimazda3.com/svmanual/esicont/en/srvc/html/B3E031104060W02.html
I am concerned about the SST's used in the 2nd-last and 3rd-last pics. It appears to still use a hydraulic press (??) to push the hub assembly in and out of the knuckle. Can anyone confirm?

[curls]

Nobody here has done a wheel bearing before? That's surprising considering how common they are to fail prematurely from what I've heard.

Basically, will I need a shop press or special service/loaner tool, or can this be done without those special tools? Anyone?

[flash75]

I haven't done a wheel bearing replacement on a Mazda 3 but you will need to separate the ball joint and tie rod ends. It's not a good idea to use the pickle fork unless you are replacing the ball joint/tie rod ends, pickle forks usually damage the seals. Use a ball joint removal tool or you can usually remove the with a hammer. Use the hammer on the steering knuckle around the the holes for the ball joint/tie rod end. Don't hammer on the threaded ends of the ball joint/tie rod end.

You will probably need a press to remove and replace the bearing. It may be possible to use an alternate method for bearing remove but be careful or it could end up costing more than taking it to a garage.

Clifton

[69buick]

Just did an 06 Mazda 3 front wheel bearing. You do need a press to do this job.

[curls]

Got it done today with the help of a $50 press out/in job at a local mechanic (since I don't have a press, obviously). The only PITA was getting the knuckle out. Putting it back together took 15 minutes. :)

[69buick]

Got it done today with the help of a $50 press out/in job at a local mechanic (since I don't have a press, obviously). The only PITA was getting the knuckle out. Putting it back together took 15 minutes. :)

Glad you got it done. Agree on the knuckle comment but getting the old race of the hub was tricky too without ruining the hub ( I used a cut off wheel & chisel). Otherwise pretty easy as long as you don't put the bearing in backwords on ABS cars like I did. Paying someone to press the bearing on the hub and hub into knuckle is still way cheaper than Mazda. I called a Mazda dealer just for fun and they wanted $420.00 for 1 bearing installed.

[AllyMazda3]

i need to have my right front replaced as well. i have a buddy who works for a lexus dealership who is doing the job after hours for me.

[bfrankart]

which side of the bearing is the abs ring on and which way should it go? black side toward axle or studs?

[69buick]

which side of the bearing is the abs ring on and which way should it go? black side toward axle or studs?

The black ring on one side of the bearing needs to be installed towards the ABS sensor or stud side. Here is a link to another thread http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123743896-ABS-light-on-after-new-wheel-bearing-hub&p=4602791&highlight=#post4602791

Greg