View Full Version : 88 front bumper swap(s)(mazda noob!!!)
323b6t
05-12-2009, 07:02 PM
i bought the car back in march and ive been researching day in and day out...
and i have come to realize that i dont have the "gt" from bumper on my gt
i have the dx bumper...(mine)
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh151/gar9845/P1000098.jpg
i know she's dirty.... i took that pic 5 minutes after i signed the title in my name
i know that the imark bumper will fit but it HARD to find so im moving on
is the VW MK2 Golf Front Bumper i direct fit?
V V V V V
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh151/gar9845/Large10922006-2-1012H25M26S.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh151/gar9845/Large10922006-2-1012H30M41S.jpg
sethro_GT
10-01-2009, 12:47 AM
Looks pretty good, what was done underneath?
88323GT
10-01-2009, 12:25 PM
Theres also the same year Honda accord bumper that will fit. I had finally found the Imark bumper sitting in the JY here and just now did the swap.
If I where you, Ide run the vin or check the vehicle history to make sure its a GT and not an LX shell with a motor Swap and wheels. From the pic, your bumper and Mirrors kind of tell me its not a GT, but then again, the previous owner may have done a few things to make it look like a base model. Does it have rear Disc brakes?
sethro_GT
10-02-2009, 03:31 AM
or it has a replacement bumper cover thats not the GT. The GT bumper has air vents in the bar.
(not mine)
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1750/3321/4374160003_large.jpg
Mike_GT
11-08-2009, 10:52 PM
I can almost guarantee that it's a GT because the side moldings and rear bumper are the stock GT ones, someone probably just changed out the front from damage. I do have a spare front GT bumper with minor damage to the bottom. Let me know if you are interested and I can get you some pictures.
sethro_GT
11-10-2009, 11:30 PM
Agreed, I was just saying the front bumper cover is not a GT. Basically regurgitated what was said on the first post, oops. Its definitely a GT with the black window trim. For what its worth the molding around my GT has a gray painted stripe not a chrome strip.
323b6t
11-18-2009, 08:26 PM
My car is a gt, I checked the VIN just in case and it is
its got the gtx digi gauges and the rear disc brakes
and the car was wrecked back in 92' and you can see where the hood hangs over the driver headlight a little but its no big deal
i have found a i-mark rs bumper here in atlanta as well
but the body and turbo mods have been put on stand by due to a blown headgasket
and i can get the head off does anyone know of a hidden bracket that could be hold the head on?
88323GT
11-18-2009, 11:10 PM
As so far as the head and intake manifold, there is one bracket that will get you. Under the intake mani there is a brace that bolts to the bottom of the intake and the side of the block. You will want to unbolt this from the back (Close to the firewall) and then lift the intake/head out.
Other then that, there shouldnt be anything else out of the ordinary to trip you up.
Since its been in an accident, that clears it up there. The mirrors kind of threw me off as they are not the body color. Glad to see another GT around. :)
323b6t
11-21-2009, 01:46 AM
Since its been in an accident, that clears it up there. The mirrors kind of threw me off as they are not the body color. Glad to see another GT around. :)
yea theres 3 down here in atlanta and a few fakes that have all the right stuff tho and one thats working dropping an a klze v6(shocked)
but i was taking to my "shade tree" mechanic and he said if the head has never been changed that there should be some kind of adhesive(shrug)
88323GT
11-21-2009, 02:51 AM
As far as Ive always known and in my experience, there is no adhesive except the fiber metal headgasket itself which is just kind of a pain to clean off as it basically crumbs apart and sticks to the head and block surfaces.
sethro_GT
11-22-2009, 06:31 PM
if you've gone around the head and there is nothing attached its either a hiding head bolt (under oil) or the gasket. There is a tab on one end of the head where a slight pry with a screwdriver between the head and block will break the gasket seal. As 88323GT said the gasket material will stick to the head and block. Make sure you don't gouge the had when cleaning it off, use a plastic scrapper or light abrasive disc on an angle grinder.
good luck.
88323GT
11-22-2009, 07:55 PM
When it comes to getting the gasket off the block, a die grinder with a cookie will do just fine, but for the head, doing it by hand with a very light abrasive like scotch bright, or something similar, or as Sethro said, a plastic scraper would do fine as the head is aluminum and very easy to scuff, and dig in with anything harder. Its easily ruined if not done right.
323b6t
11-23-2009, 08:13 PM
As so far as the head and intake manifold, there is one bracket that will get you. Under the intake mani there is a brace that bolts to the bottom of the intake and the side of the block. You will want to unbolt this from the back (Close to the firewall) and then lift the intake/head out.
Other then that, there shouldnt be anything else out of the ordinary to trip you up.
The bracket your talking about, is i roughly 3 inches away from the alternator bracket? If so I've over looked it several times.
The I-mark rs bumper has been removed from the JY car :/
and the search continues
sethro_GT
11-24-2009, 12:59 PM
indeed, the bracket uses two bolts to attach to the block by the starter and runs up to the plenum on the intake manifold and has two nuts there. Look into getting the front/rear bumper setup from Australia, would be well worth it....
88323GT
11-24-2009, 03:49 PM
For the top of the bracket, if the welds havnt been broken off the nuts in the past, should be 2 bolts on the plenum.
323b6t
12-02-2009, 12:24 AM
since i cant find either the 323 gt or the I-mark front bumper im resorting to replacement parts.
i know what a gt front bumper looks like http://www.autobodypartsonline.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/st_prod.html?p_prodid=19983&p_catid=1339&sid=77CBJv2EW30W9kB-39109211365.93
does this look like on?
CorkSport
12-02-2009, 01:38 PM
The price they list at the link is really good for the GT/GTX bumper. I would just be careful of the shipping costs.
-Derrick
sethro_GT
12-02-2009, 01:52 PM
Derrick, May be an unanswerable question but is there anyway Corksport could import aussie spec bumpers for the 88-89 323's? Cost/demand may not justify it but I'm curious none the less. I'm interested and I know others are too.
thanks,
seth
323b6t
12-02-2009, 06:00 PM
Derrick, May be an unanswerable question but is there anyway Corksport could import aussie spec bumpers for the 88-89 323's? Cost/demand may not justify it but I'm curious none the less. I'm interested and I know others are too.
thanks,
seth
i cant seem to find even a picture of the aussie front or rear bumpers.
cause im tired of hearing the usual "coffee table rear bumper"(unamused)
323b6t
12-02-2009, 06:01 PM
The price they list at the link is really good for the GT/GTX bumper. I would just be careful of the shipping costs.
-Derrick
i know that its hella cheap for one but is it the "gt/gtx" style?
cause plenty of sites sell the "se" bumpers just not the gt/gtx
323b6t
12-03-2009, 11:10 PM
by plenum where you talking about
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh151/gar9845/l_e932effcbb6a4b49a1b0c6c3d8b771-1.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh151/gar9845/l_10ca9489637844d494c5120e493827-1.jpg
?????????????????????????????
sethro_GT
12-04-2009, 04:34 AM
yeah thats it. Still stuck? If so I'll dig out the manual and scan it.
Here's teh only pic I could find of the aussie bumpers, bad ass.
http://i701.photobucket.com/albums/ww14/sethro_GT/Car%20Schite/right.jpg
323b6t
12-04-2009, 09:45 PM
yeah thats it. Still stuck? If so I'll dig out the manual and scan it.
Here's teh only pic I could find of the aussie bumpers, bad ass.
http://i701.photobucket.com/albums/ww14/sethro_GT/Car%20Schite/right.jpg
Yea I'm still stuck
does the bitten bolts in the bracket need to come out too?
I'm stumped and super irritated
88323GT
12-04-2009, 09:53 PM
Did you pry the head a little bit from the block? If you have all head bolts off, both manifolds un bolted (I.E. exhuast from head and intake from brace), then you shouldn't be catching on anything.... unless you didnt take the timing belt off yet. ;)
323b6t
12-05-2009, 01:34 AM
Did you pry the head a little bit from the block? If you have all head bolts off, both manifolds un bolted (I.E. exhuast from head and intake from brace), then you shouldn't be catching on anything.... unless you didnt take the timing belt off yet. ;)
Yea all the head bolts are out and the exhaust Mani is off and the intake mani ir loose from the bracket and lol I did take the timing belt off
but I guess I'll just get a super the screw driver and pry it loose...even tho I've tugged on both of the motor hoist mounts w/ some chain...
88323GT
12-05-2009, 02:41 AM
Sometimes, those gaskets will stick hard.
323b6t
12-05-2009, 02:09 PM
Sometimes, those gaskets will stick hard.
I think chuck Norris was holding on to it but it off finaly
thanks to all who gave advise along the way
I'll keep updating as I upgrade
323b6t
12-24-2009, 03:29 PM
so i need some new head bolts.
and i looked on arp and the have studs for a 1.6 bp & and 1.8 bp...
would either of these work or would i need some custom made?
any ideas ?
CorkSport
12-24-2009, 03:55 PM
They work great in the B6T and we have them in stock as well.
Head Studs (http://www.corksport.com/arp-head-stud-kit.html)
Main Studs (http://www.corksport.com/arp-main-stud-kit.html)
-Derrick
323b6t
12-29-2009, 06:01 PM
They work great in the B6T and we have them in stock as well.
Head Studs (http://www.corksport.com/arp-head-stud-kit.html)
Main Studs (http://www.corksport.com/arp-main-stud-kit.html)
-Derrick
the pic of the studs only 8.
is the pic not accurate?
and is the kit w/ the washers and nuts a better
buy?(help)
( so far I've only reuse the bolts and now im looking to upgrade
sethro_GT
12-29-2009, 06:58 PM
if you've reused them several times they probably need replaced. Can't remember if they are stretch type or not but its still a good idea. ARP's would be a good idea if you are going to run more boost.
CorkSport
12-30-2009, 01:33 AM
the pic of the studs only 8.
is the pic not accurate?
and is the kit w/ the washers and nuts a better
buy?(help)
( so far I've only reuse the bolts and now im looking to upgrade
The pictures are some from ARP. The part is the correct one for the B6T engine with the correct amount of parts.
Check the price on the Mazda head bolts. If I remember correctly the ARP are not much more than the stock parts.
-Derrick
323b6t
12-30-2009, 06:05 PM
They work great in the B6T and we have them in stock as well.
Head Studs (http://www.corksport.com/arp-head-stud-kit.html)
Main Studs (http://www.corksport.com/arp-main-stud-kit.html)
-Derrick
why is one more than the other?(uhm)
and when i said ive only resued oem bolts i ment in my short lived honda engine build
sethro_GT
12-31-2009, 01:19 AM
Head studs are probably longer by quite a bit.
323b6t
01-09-2010, 04:26 PM
so my arp studs came in and i know the head side has the alen wrench hole in the top of it and all but on the small install info slip that came in the arp box said put the studs in hand tight. Personally that makes no sense.
Why wouldnt i just go ahead and tighten all ten of the down the work from there?
is there a trick to getting dust out of the oil and water jackets in the block?
or just drive it for a hour+ then just change the oil and flush the water out?
but on a good note i have located a imark rs front bumper for only 50$(eekdance),
im waiting on a shipping cost reply then its only uphill from there ( i hope)
idk if im either going to put it on or just trade it for a local gt front that is on a car down here
rafe158
01-13-2010, 02:06 AM
is the VW MK2 Golf Front Bumper i direct fit?
V V V V V
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh151/gar9845/Large10922006-2-1012H25M26S.jpg
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh151/gar9845/Large10922006-2-1012H30M41S.jpg
is this a direct fit? like bolt on fit without any major mods?
sethro_GT
01-13-2010, 01:31 PM
They don't need to be bottomed out in the hole to be effective. The head bolts don't bottom out (you wouldn't be able to get it tight). If it says hand tight, do it; and thats probably barely in contact with the bottom. I doubt all the holes aren't the same depth anyway. As long as there is about an inch of threads in the block they should be plenty strong enough.
323b6t
01-13-2010, 04:28 PM
is this a direct fit? like bolt on fit without any major mods?
I asked the same thing but I took my bumper off and looked at a spare mkII bumper at my neighbors house there is a few mounting holes you need to modify(cuting and welding required)
323b6t
01-25-2010, 03:21 PM
ok so the motor is almost buttoned back up and ready to crank.
except for a few things here and there
if yall could help it would be greatly appreciated
i know this came of the intake mani but i dont know where and what its for..... it broke the connection on the block when the head was coming off
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh151/gar9845/mazdawire2.jpg
and for this oil return?
idk if i lost the bolt or whatever but i cant seem to find what size i need.... and if i do need to go and buy one does it need to be a special one due to it being attached to a oil return?... like have a hole in it?
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh151/gar9845/mazdaoilline.jpg
CorkSport
01-25-2010, 08:45 PM
ok so the motor is almost buttoned back up and ready to crank.
except for a few things here and there
if yall could help it would be greatly appreciated
i know this came of the intake mani but i dont know where and what its for..... it broke the connection on the block when the head was coming off
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh151/gar9845/mazdawire2.jpg
and for this oil return?
idk if i lost the bolt or whatever but i cant seem to find what size i need.... and if i do need to go and buy one does it need to be a special one due to it being attached to a oil return?... like have a hole in it?
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh151/gar9845/mazdaoilline.jpg
The plug is the knock sensor. It is located next to the oil pressure sensor next to the starter on the back of the engine.
The bolt you need is Mazda B660-14-615 and two crush washers 9956-21-000
-Derrick
323b6t
01-25-2010, 09:17 PM
The plug is the knock sensor. It is located next to the oil pressure sensor next to the starter on the back of the engine.
The bolt you need is Mazda B660-14-615 and two crush washers 9956-21-000
-Derrick
you are a god my friend, a god
323b6t
01-26-2010, 08:33 PM
So I went to the local Mazda dealership and ordered the bolt a crush washers.
I've been under my car all day putting in my new shifter bushings
and I was looking for the connection for the knock sensor and I couldn't locate it at all
idk if I'm looking In the wrong place or what but I haven't got a clue where it is.
Will it run w/o it?
If so is it safe to drive about 2 miles at my local shop an have them install it?
CorkSport
01-27-2010, 12:45 AM
Keep your foot out of the throttle and you should be fine for the drive.
-Derrick
323b6t
01-29-2010, 10:58 PM
so as of now im in the market to have a real intercooler set up on the 323 since i recently picked up an imark rs bumper as well.(nana)
but ive never had a turbo car and i dont know where to splice in the boost guage and the MBC
88323GT
01-31-2010, 09:56 PM
so as of now im in the market to have a real intercooler set up on the 323 since i recently picked up an imark rs bumper as well.(nana)
but ive never had a turbo car and i dont know where to splice in the boost guage and the MBC
Boost gauge: T into the Over Boost Solenoid vacuum line.
MBC: Ile have to double check how mines plumbed in. Im too tired to remember.
323b6t
02-03-2010, 07:06 PM
Boost gauge: T into the Over Boost Solenoid vacuum line.
MBC: Ile have to double check how mines plumbed in. Im too tired to remember.
ive already got the mbc figured out thanks to clubprotege :]
but now that ive been on there from time to time.... i realized that ive been asking yall to spoon feed me
lol sorry
but now that the car is pretty much ready to crank and all i recently found out that my bagging and tagging skills are at an all time low and ive lost my thermostat house bolt and the nut.
ive called every mazda dealership w/in 75 miles and every single one of them say that there should be 2 bolts ( which is whats comes on the B6 sohc)
any idea on how i could get the bolt and the nut
CorkSport
02-04-2010, 07:31 PM
ive already got the mbc figured out thanks to clubprotege :]
but now that ive been on there from time to time.... i realized that ive been asking yall to spoon feed me
lol sorry
but now that the car is pretty much ready to crank and all i recently found out that my bagging and tagging skills are at an all time low and ive lost my thermostat house bolt and the nut.
ive called every mazda dealership w/in 75 miles and every single one of them say that there should be 2 bolts ( which is whats comes on the B6 sohc)
any idea on how i could get the bolt and the nut
The size for the bolts should be a M8 x 1.25 thread pitch. I don't remember the length though. Some models have a stud in 1 spot and a bolt in the other.
-Derrick
323b6t
02-06-2010, 12:08 PM
323 gt or "kyle" i think his name is told me the sizes and such on club protege
thanks
88323GT
02-07-2010, 03:32 AM
323 gt or "kyle" i think his name is told me the sizes and such on club protege
thanks
They are M8's. Im pretty sure those matched the demensions that I gave you.
323b6t
02-11-2010, 06:50 PM
They are M8's. Im pretty sure those matched the demensions that I gave you.
oh yea they worked fine
thanks dude
88323GT
02-11-2010, 11:40 PM
Sweet!
323b6t
02-14-2010, 07:40 PM
update.!!!!
the car fired up from the first key turn and was smoking a heavy blue smoke.
but i like it warm up and idle for about 10 more minutes and the smoke stopped and she back to normal :]
the only issue i have at the moment is that my valves clicking pretty loud.
will this quite down??
its about is loud as a "cam killer" b-series honda
88323GT
02-15-2010, 01:41 AM
Did you replace your HLA's? If so, or even if you let the old ones drain, it will take some time to pump up with oil and quiet down. Give it a little time, and take it easy on it till things get quiet.
CorkSport
02-15-2010, 02:35 AM
If the HLAs are ok they should quiet up after a few drive cycles.
-Derrick
323b6t
02-15-2010, 03:24 PM
Hla?
Everything in the head is new but the case and the cams and they were polished
CorkSport
02-19-2010, 01:53 AM
Hla?
Everything in the head is new but the case and the cams and they were polished
Hydraulic Lash Adjuster, aka lifters.
Derrick
88323GT
02-19-2010, 03:51 AM
If they are new HLA's, then they will need a little time to pump up with oil. My new HLA's in my head when I rebuilt my motor took over 2 hours to quiet down. Everything is fine now with no issues. Sometimes its quick, other times it takes a long while. Eitherway, Take it easy till they quiet down.
323b6t
03-03-2010, 10:44 PM
If they are new HLA's, then they will need a little time to pump up with oil. My new HLA's in my head when I rebuilt my motor took over 2 hours to quiet down. Everything is fine now with no issues. Sometimes its quick, other times it takes a long while. Eitherway, Take it easy till they quiet down.
they are quiter now that it been cranked daily but it hasnt left the drive way due to a bad heater core that is currently being fixed...
but im excited to trim out the imark bumper ASAP.
and krylon it.
but idk if i should go w/ the atmosphere BOV or the BOUSH recirculating.
i just hate the way the recirculating looks, cause im a HUGE fan of wire tucks. Even tho a bf is damn near impossible to wire tuck i still would like to keep it neat and tidy looking
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