awr 19mm sway bar help

[powderider87]

Hey guys, so i got a 19mm sway bar from a guy on here who had it on his p5. It has the adjustable endlinks. i cannot figure out how to get this thing to work right, ive tried it upside down rightside up and it doesnt work right. The way i have it in these pics would look like it would work right but the angle on endlink doesnt seem right my old racing beat wasent like that. and it is basically totching the underside of the car as well? Ive gotten fed up and need help from you guys, what am i doing wrong here.

[deVic]

keep it that way but try that other hole to create a better straight angle

[o.g.sk8er]

you need to install the aluminum standoffs (those black pieces)
then you should have enough clearance.

[powderider87]

ok im going to install those standoffs, also there are two holes that you can mount the endlink to, one is closer up, like where it would be on the stock bar, you can see it in the first and last pic. Im going to use that hole then cut off the bar with the second hole that is at the end.... so it wont hang down to 3 inches off the ground. Oh and im trying to get the stock brackets off now, but it seems that the bolt that is welded onto the inside of the subframe has unwelded it self. so now im trying to get a wrench back there to keep it from spinning.

[o.g.sk8er]

yea, you need the standoffs for sure. the same thing happened to my subframe...broken bolt inside the subframe. I was able to get it threaded using a magnet. Then I jammed a small crowbar against the nut and inside of the subframe, then tightened it all up using a 14mm socket. So whenever I change sway bars, thats what I have to do. lol Kind of a pita, but whatever.
Question though...why are changing out the stock 20mm for a smaller 19mm sway bar? ( Many people think the Racing Beat bar is a 19mm but it really is a 20mm.)

[powderider87]

Well, my stock racing beat one broke in half believe it or not. right inside the bushing. So i needed one bad and just decided to get this one. I think it should work just fine with the adjustable endlinks. i finally got the nut out from inside the subframe, i was able to get a 17mm wrench back there and get the nut out. Going to hopefully put the new one on tonight. Been working 9-10 hour days for the past 3 weeks outside all day. So, maybe ill take a nap first then go out there and putz with it.

[powderider87]

im so fed up with this. So in the picture of the sway bar you can see that i had to bend my stock brackets in so they would line up wit the stand off bracket. And in the other 2 pics you can see that that standoff bracket is about in inch shy of the bottom bolt hole. its too small! i dont get what is going on. someone help, are the speed proteges not the same as the regular protege down there? wtf is going on.

[rustychops41]

im so fed up with this. So in the picture of the sway bar you can see that i had to bend my stock brackets in so they would line up wit the stand off bracket. And in the other 2 pics you can see that that standoff bracket is about in inch shy of the bottom bolt hole. its too small! i dont get what is going on. someone help, are the speed proteges not the same as the regular protege down there? wtf is going on.


The MSP/MP3 crossmember is not the same as the civilian version, those stand-off brackets won't work on it. The MSP's mounting holes are spaced further apart. The stand-offs are made for the regular BJ crossmember. I'd say you need to find a way to fit the AWR bar in the stock horseshoe brackets. But to use the stiff setting you'll need shorter end-links, based on the pics posted. If you are having clearance issues with the rear lateral links, I experienced the same with the 19mm bar on my '02 DX (regular x-member). No matter how I tried it, the rear lateral links were right in the way of the sway bar. I tried tabs up, tabs down, with stand-offs, without, over the lateral links, and under. NOTHING worked. I ended up cutting the ends off of the sway bar, aft of the "stiff" setting tabs. Actually I had to take about 1/4" of the stiff tab itself, to clear the lateral links. But this only worked WITH the stand-offs, and I never had a problem again. It almost seems a used MSP rear bar might be the proper cure.

[powderider87]

yea thats what i am going to have to do.. get another racing beat bar. and hopefully use those adjustable endlinks. This awr bar i have needs to have those standoffs, otherwise it is basically toutching the crossmember above it. So this sucks, i hate driving with out a bar. Thanks rusty chops for clearing this all up now i understand and can get it off my head.