View Full Version : Mazda 3 timing belt
vladjan
05-02-2009, 07:33 PM
Hey guys, i have a 2004 mazda 3i 2.0 engine. honestly i have no idea whether my car a timing belt or a chain. If i do have the timing belt, do u guys know the approximate mileage it should b done? I have 90k on my car, i havent done anything to the timing belt, just today decided to think about it..
thanks
sunrun176
05-02-2009, 08:20 PM
As noted in a few other threads, the '04-'09 3 engines (2.0 and 2.3) have a timing chain. IIRC, the only factory recommendation (as listed in the Maintenance Schedules in the owner's manual) regarding adjustment is if significant valve noise is noted during inspection at oil-change interval.
zenon
06-08-2009, 01:55 AM
You have a chain. I 100% guarantee it. If you try to replace a timing belt, you'll find there isn't one. Don't worry about replacing it unless you encounter problems. If you want to verify what I'm telling you, take off the valve cover and look. Don't forget to replace the gasket when you put it back on. Or you can take the cheap route and look in a service manual.
But as a Mazda technician working with these motors every day, I guarantee you--Mazda quit using timing belts a little while ago. All Mazda 3s, 6s, speed 3s, speed 6s, MX-5s ('06 and later), MPVs (with 3.0 V6 engines only), CX-7s, CX-9s, and Tributes all use timing chains.
Let that "ahh....low maintenance" feeling sink in. =>
chrissor
06-10-2009, 07:05 PM
.
Let that "ahh....low maintenance" feeling sink in. =>
lol unless you have a cx7 with a faulty VVT actuator, those are my favorite. but yes to the OP these guys are right, i'm also a mazda tech and timing belts have become obsolete
zenon
06-11-2009, 11:40 PM
lol unless you have a cx7 with a faulty VVT actuator, those are my favorite. but yes to the OP these guys are right, i'm also a mazda tech and timing belts have become obsolete
ahhh. *RATATATATAT smooothh* we've done a lot of those. i actually have yet to get my first one but it'll come around. right now i get to pull the transfer case out of a speed 6 to reseal it. TSB 03-001/08. That's my job tomorrow plus upsells. woot! whaddya think, chrissor--is 4.3 for warranty pay good enough? first time i've done this one--not even our master tech has had to yet.
chrissor
06-14-2009, 11:37 AM
ahhh. *RATATATATAT smooothh* we've done a lot of those. i actually have yet to get my first one but it'll come around. right now i get to pull the transfer case out of a speed 6 to reseal it. TSB 03-001/08. That's my job tomorrow plus upsells. woot! whaddya think, chrissor--is 4.3 for warranty pay good enough? first time i've done this one--not even our master tech has had to yet.
it can be done in that time but first time i did it i lost about an hour on it. now i can get it done in 4 if i have no interuptions, which is rare lol.
hworth18
06-20-2009, 01:37 AM
Thanks guys!
This is great to hear because I was also wondering if I need to worry about the timing chain or not. I have 97,000 on my '04 2.3 and it has been low maint. up til now.
One other question (not to hijack the thread) but I have a rattle in the front end like a broke strut, but it just sounds like something loose in the suspension (rattles at every crack in the road). Anything I can look at?
joshritger
06-20-2009, 12:09 PM
I had the same noise coming from one of my rear shocks after I had them replaced, it ended up being a loose shock mount. I would, if you are comfy with it, check all of the hardware for the strut to make sure it is all tight. If you are not comfortable doing it yourself, take it to a shop you trust and have then check it. The tech that looked at mine knew exactly what the sound was right away. I had even tried to tighten mine myself and couldn't get the sound to go away. The tech used an air wrench and it must have gotten it just a little bit tighter. Good Luck
hworth18
06-25-2009, 09:11 PM
I had the same noise coming from one of my rear shocks after I had them replaced, it ended up being a loose shock mount. I would, if you are comfy with it, check all of the hardware for the strut to make sure it is all tight. If you are not comfortable doing it yourself, take it to a shop you trust and have then check it. The tech that looked at mine knew exactly what the sound was right away. I had even tried to tighten mine myself and couldn't get the sound to go away. The tech used an air wrench and it must have gotten it just a little bit tighter. Good Luck
Mine really sounds like the front end is going to fall off.. I checked the torque on the strut mounts and everything is snug.
elieleb1303
09-16-2009, 01:22 AM
how do u tighten the timing chain, for the techs on here
elieleb1303
09-16-2009, 02:10 AM
EDIT: can you tighten the timing chain or will it need to be replaced? if you can tighten it, how do you do this? if it must be replaced, does anything else need to be replaced with it?
elieleb1303
09-16-2009, 10:49 AM
anyone?
zenon
09-17-2009, 11:27 PM
The timing chain tension is controlled by a hydraulic/springloaded piston style tensioner that pushes on the back side of a timing chain guide. It's not manually adjustable for tension purposes. The only time it gets messed with is when for whatever reason, chain removal or loosening is necessary during a repair.
*****Important Question:*****
Why do you want to tighten the chain?
----------------------------------------
As to the suspension rattle, examine the rest of the suspension. Much easier if you can jack up the front end of the car (that is, if you're trying to avoid paying a shop a diagnosis fee). Also examine other components all throughout under the hood--engine mounts? the power steering pump?
Consider this: one suspension knocking that can fool you is if the piston rod nut for the strut is backed off just a bit. That's the nut directly in the center top of where the strut is mounted at the front of the car. It keeps the spring and everything together. They're typically lock-nuts, so it won't be turnable by hand usually. But if while the car's parked, you raise the hood and bounce each corner of the car, watch that nut on each front strut--if you see it bobbing up and down separate from the rest of the car, it needs to be tightened ASAP. If you don't see that moving (you might need to REALLY bounce the car to make sure), you might still at least be able to duplicate the noise while the car's still and in your driveway. If you can, that will help you trace where it's coming from.
elieleb1303
09-18-2009, 12:20 AM
cause mine is loose as a goose
chrissor
09-18-2009, 06:55 AM
if its loose, and this isn't the first time its happened. i would replace the tensioner, as well as the guides possiably. how do you know its loose and its not something else you are hearing?
rustychops41
09-18-2009, 09:17 AM
It might just feel loose because when the engine is not running, no oil pressure = less/no tension on the tensioner. Toyota 20/22R engines occasionally had oil-pressure controlled tensioners that would stick closed causing quite a clatter on start up, and sometimes requiring replacement
elieleb1303
09-18-2009, 07:32 PM
because i had my car at the dealership, and they have the top half of the engine taken apart..and they showed me the chain, i tapped it, and it just bounced around
chrissor
09-18-2009, 09:53 PM
then go back to the dealership they obviously didn't fix the issue. or maybe try a different dealership as the one you went to doesn't seem to be up to par. just my .02 cents man. i've only ever had to do chains on on 2.3L and it had retarded mileage on it.
to rusty chops, the tensioners are sealed units the only real issue with these are the VVT actuators, the check ball sticks and it drains over time, then on start up you hear the valve slapping around. its more common on cx-7s though not so much on speed 3 and 6s, or regular 3,5,6
zenon
09-21-2009, 11:24 PM
well, define "top half of engine taken apart" if you can. Did they have just the valve cover removed? Were the camshaft sprockets still in place?
Better yet, did you just notice the chain was loose, or were they specifically showing you that the chain was loose?
If they were specifically pointing it out to you, find out if they fixed it already (warranty?) or if they were trying to give you an estimate for repairing the problem (out of warranty?) or what.
The only thing I can think of that would cause a loose chain is either very worn guides, or somehow a failed tensioner. Knowing how it's put together, I would suspect worn guides first. The tensioners are fed oil pressure if I remember correctly, but they don't lose tension when the engine is off. An internal ratchet keeps the piston pushed out into the guide.
----------------
Chrissor: You're saying the check ball sticks on the VVT's. We get plenty of VVT failures on cx-7's where I'm at, but typically it seems to be the stopper pin that falls out. We've even had one where the pin fell out, got chewed up, and bits of it got caught in bearings causing the motor to seize. Are the ones in your area failing in a different manner?
chrissor
09-22-2009, 08:24 PM
Chrissor: You're saying the check ball sticks on the VVT's. We get plenty of VVT failures on cx-7's where I'm at, but typically it seems to be the stopper pin that falls out. We've even had one where the pin fell out, got chewed up, and bits of it got caught in bearings causing the motor to seize. Are the ones in your area failing in a different manner?
i have never had a cx-7 engine seize up due to failed VVT actautor. the only ones i've delt with the check ball sticks and the actuator drains of oil.
zenon
09-23-2009, 12:44 AM
go fig. either way they're failing almost left and right. but then again all we see are the problems, right? lol
sunrun176
09-23-2009, 11:00 AM
go fig. either way they're failing almost left and right. but then again all we see are the problems, right? lol
That's what makes aggregated reliability info from sites like www.truedelta.com and consumerreports.org useful -- they contain data not only from those with problems, but also from those without problems so that one can get a general idea of actual failure rates, including specific areas of basic automotive function (i.e. electrical, engine, transmission, body integrity, etc.).
Granted, they both share one major statistical flaw -- the aggregated data is only from those who've filled out their respective surveys and is therefore not representative of the entire population. That being said, the data's still useful as a general guide, and honestly, it's better than nothing.
My $0.02.
splitthebreak
11-12-2009, 07:49 PM
question about a ticking noise i have. for a back ground on the tick, i posted in this thread a while back about it (link to page i started posting on) http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123730564&page=9
was talking to my uncle who own a mechanic shop about it an he mentioned that the timing components on the 2.3L engines are know to go bad and cause this kind of tick/knock. i was wondering if the mazda techs that post on here would know if this is true or not. and if so, what parts usually go bad and cause the tick/knock? and where could i get the parts? my warranty expired a few days ago, so i am kinda SOL on getting it fixed for free.
dtlmunkey
01-24-2010, 03:37 AM
hey guys/gals,
my '04 2.3 has started to rattle a bit as well. I've only got about 67,000 on it, and I don't drive very aggressively. In the past few months it sounds like the front end is going to drop off when rpm's go below 700 or so, mostly when starting off in first or idling. As far as handling, everything's fine, so I don't think it's anything in the struts. I also checked all the fairings and plastic guards to make sure they weren't rattling against each other. How do you check motor mounts to see if they are still good, and what else should I check. There doesn't seem to be a difference between warm or cold weather, it kinda happens all the time. Sometimes I hear it going over bumps, but only at slow(under 10mph) speeds.
Thanks!
vladjan
01-24-2010, 06:48 PM
check the motor mount, 2004 models have that problem,i had to change 2 motor mounts on my car 2004 mazda 3i
chivas
02-08-2010, 08:19 PM
hello evrebody(headbang)
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