Wheel bearings?

[cbrcrx]

I thought my tires were loud because I lowered my car and didn't get it aligned for a while. But, now I'm starting to think it is the wheel bearings because I rotated the tires and it is still only loud in the front. Can anybody describe what it sounds like when the bearings are bad? I changed wheel bearings in other cars before by tapping them out and the new ones in. Is this car that easy? Any feedback is helpful.

[NCZ13]

i believe they have to be pressed... i dont think you can just tap these in.

[boostdprotegelx]

I thought my tires were loud because I lowered my car and didn't get it aligned for a while. But, now I'm starting to think it is the wheel bearings because I rotated the tires and it is still only loud in the front. Can anybody describe what it sounds like when the bearings are bad? I changed wheel bearings in other cars before by tapping them out and the new ones in. Is this car that easy? Any feedback is helpful.

metal grinding...

you're supposed to press them. if you have skills a dead blow hammer and something the size of the bearing works too.

[slavrenz]

Take off your front wheels and check for play in your wheel hubs. Otherwise, it can sound like a lot of different things - metal grinding, droning (in my case), etc.

To replace the wheel bearings, just remove the steering knuckles, and take the new bearings and the knuckles to a shop to press them in/out. Do not use a hammer - you will destroy the bearing.

[boostdprotegelx]

Take off your front wheels and check for play in your wheel hubs. Otherwise, it can sound like a lot of different things - metal grinding, droning (in my case), etc.

To replace the wheel bearings, just remove the steering knuckles, and take the new bearings and the knuckles to a shop to press them in/out. Do not use a hammer - you will destroy the bearing.

that's not true at all. i've done a ton of bearings in that manner, never came back for issues..

[slavrenz]

that's not true at all. i've done a ton of bearings in that manner, never came back for issues..

Well then you've had your experiences and I've had mine. I have seen people use hammers on these with bad results, so please don't try and call me on something like this.

Yes, if you are very very careful it is possible with a hammer. But the risk is not worth the cost saving IMO.

[boostdprotegelx]

Well then you've had your experiences and I've had mine. I have seen people use hammers on these with bad results, so please don't try and call me on something like this.

Yes, if you are very very careful it is possible with a hammer. But the risk is not worth the cost saving IMO.

ok. fair enough. i would never JUST use a hammer. i use something to even the blow.

[slavrenz]

ok. fair enough. i would never JUST use a hammer. i use something to even the blow.

That's what I mean. Judging from your post count, you could probably change the wheel bearings blindfolded while using a rock to bang 'em into place, and they would still be fine. But, for most people who don't know exactly what they're doing, a hammer could very well ruin their bearings before they are seated.

That's all I'm trying to do - give the advice that makes the most sense for the most people. If the hammer works for you, then by all means I applaud your precision and care in using it.

[boostdprotegelx]

That's what I mean. Judging from your post count, you could probably change the wheel bearings blindfolded while using a rock to bang 'em into place, and they would still be fine. But, for most people who don't know exactly what they're doing, a hammer could very well ruin their bearings before they are seated.

That's all I'm trying to do - give the advice that makes the most sense for the most people. If the hammer works for you, then by all means I applaud your precision and care in using it.

thank you sir. yeah, i've been a mechanic for some time now.. but, you pick up things now and again, when the shop you work for doesn't provide you with the right tools always. lol. such as a press. a press makes life much easier.

[slavrenz]

thank you sir. yeah, i've been a mechanic for some time now.. but, you pick up things now and again, when the shop you work for doesn't provide you with the right tools always. lol. such as a press. a press makes life much easier.

Not a problem. That sux about not having a press tho. When I did mine, I borrowed a manual press at a golf course maintenance shop that I'm pretty sure was at least 50 years old (the press, not the shop). Each pump of the handle only moved the press like 0.0001", but godammit I got those wheel bearings done. :)

[boostdprotegelx]

Not a problem. That sux about not having a press tho. When I did mine, I borrowed a manual press at a golf course maintenance shop that I'm pretty sure was at least 50 years old (the press, not the shop). Each pump of the handle only moved the press like 0.0001", but godammit I got those wheel bearings done. :)

lol. i am actually looking to buy a press. i thought they were super expensive, but in fact, they are not too costly.

[cbrcrx]

Well, I'm pretty sure it's the bearings now. I put my stock wheels and tires back on and it sounded and felt exactly the same. I guess I'll be doing them this weekend. The good news is, there is nothing wrong with my tires. Bearings are cheaper than tires.

[boostdprotegelx]

Well, I'm pretty sure it's the bearings now. I put my stock wheels and tires back on and it sounded and felt exactly the same. I guess I'll be doing them this weekend. The good news is, there is nothing wrong with my tires. Bearings are cheaper than tires.

very true. i just pulled all of my bearings and spindles today for fun.. to just replace everything.

[cbrcrx]

very true. i just pulled all of my bearings and spindles today for fun.. to just replace everything.

That was fun when I was 16. Now that I'm 38, it is not. The older I get, the more I pay someone to do work that I know how to do. I will be doing this myself, though.

[boostdprotegelx]

That was fun when I was 16. Now that I'm 38, it is not. The older I get, the more I pay someone to do work that I know how to do. I will be doing this myself, though.

meh. i'm 24. i still do just about it all myself if i can help it. i like being useful.

[DeanSweet]

could be something like the pads are gone and they are missing the squeal tabs so the grinding could be pad backing on rotor?

[slavrenz]

could be something like the pads are gone and they are missing the squeal tabs so the grinding could be pad backing on rotor?

Also a valid possibility. To the OP, check your brake pad thickness to rule this out.

[MonkeyBone]

Found a nice way to change my bearings. Put the bearing in the freezer, and your hub in the oven at low temp. Then you take a normal car jack, and find a place not too high that will allow you to lift the hub and bearings (pressing it with the jack) without jacking the place you got your jack under.

I will do that next week-end with the farm tractor of my dad(canada). Will put jack under it and find a suitable place under it and press the bearing in!

Hope it'll work!

[SeminoleMan]

I thought my tires were loud because I lowered my car and didn't get it aligned for a while. But, now I'm starting to think it is the wheel bearings because I rotated the tires and it is still only loud in the front. Can anybody describe what it sounds like when the bearings are bad? I changed wheel bearings in other cars before by tapping them out and the new ones in. Is this car that easy? Any feedback is helpful.

I just lowered my car last weekend and as soon as I drove off I noticed the same noise from the front only. I'm going to get the car aligned this weekend. I can't see how from stock height and 16s there was zero noise, and immediately after putting the struts/springs on and driving off with my new wheels there was instantly noise (mostly around 10-25 mph.)

[cbrcrx]

Mine is not brake related. Besides, my pads and rotors are new. It has nothing to do with it being lowered. Mine isn't just a noise at a certain speed. It is a roar and vibration at any speed. I'll be doing mine next weekend.

[DeanSweet]

Mine is not brake related. Besides, my pads and rotors are new. It has nothing to do with it being lowered.

new brakes are not mentioned in original post so you stated you needed input, I supplied it. You're more than welcome for the suggestion. Are you sure you installed your pads correctly?

Actually, bearing wear could have something to do with lowering your car. If you lower your car far enough, it causes your alignment (camber) to be skewed which may place more force on the bearing off axis thus speeding up wheel bearing failure.

[imola.zhp]

I took my car to get it aligned two weekends ago, they let me know one of my bearings was bad...

After them quoting me $500 to replace 1 side (new hub and included alignment) I laughed and left.

I'm kinda in the middle of replacing these (decided to do both the front) and I have a question...

The (moron) at vato-zone asked if I wanted bearing grease when I picked up one of the two bearings (he only had one in stock, I had to get the other at another vato-zone). I told him no thanks, I'd have the shop that presses the old ones out/new ones in do the greasing.

Ok, so I get home, look at the bearing and it looks like a "sealed" bearing to me, as in, no greasing is needed.

Is that correct? These are Timken(I think thats how its spelled) bearings from vato-zone. When I picked up the 2nd, the guy didn't ask if I wanted grease. Not sure if he forgot or he knew it wasn't necessary.

Thanks in advance...

PS: Can any wheel/tire shop do the pressing? I wont be going back to the place I tried to get it aligned, they can KMA.

[boostdprotegelx]

I took my car to get it aligned two weekends ago, they let me know one of my bearings was bad...

After them quoting me $500 to replace 1 side (new hub and included alignment) I laughed and left.

I'm kinda in the middle of replacing these (decided to do both the front) and I have a question...

The (moron) at vato-zone asked if I wanted bearing grease when I picked up one of the two bearings (he only had one in stock, I had to get the other at another vato-zone). I told him no thanks, I'd have the shop that presses the old ones out/new ones in do the greasing.

Ok, so I get home, look at the bearing and it looks like a "sealed" bearing to me, as in, no greasing is needed.

Is that correct? These are Timken(I think thats how its spelled) bearings from vato-zone. When I picked up the 2nd, the guy didn't ask if I wanted grease. Not sure if he forgot or he knew it wasn't necessary.

Thanks in advance...

PS: Can any wheel/tire shop do the pressing? I wont be going back to the place I tried to get it aligned, they can KMA.
ok.. you're gonna need a machine shop PROBABLY to do the pressing.. as most wheel tire shops don't have a press..

and they're sealed bearings.. no grease needed.

[imola.zhp]

^ thanks, I assumed a tire shop could do the job as it was a tire shop that quoted me to do the job when I went in for an alignment. Machine shop will probably be cheaper anyway...

I thought they were sealed but I'd rather look like a moron on the intarweb than at the machine shop asking them to pack my sealed bearings, lol.

Ok, so I finally got one of the two axle nuts off tonight (long story) while trying to dissasemble the rest of the hub I came to a stopping point when trying to remove the lower ball-joint. Is there a nut somewhere I'm supposed to remove? I've looked at the online manual and I don't see one. Do I put this ball-joint remover between the lower control arm and the hub or the lower control arm and the bottom of the ball joint? Thanks again!

EDIT: Another question. Holy crap, are these break disc's supposed to look like this? Do these pads "float?" Because these are the most not-flat disc's I've ever seen yet I've never felt any indication of warped disc's while driving the car...

[boostdprotegelx]

^ thanks, I assumed a tire shop could do the job as it was a tire shop that quoted me to do the job when I went in for an alignment. Machine shop will probably be cheaper anyway...

I thought they were sealed but I'd rather look like a moron on the intarweb than at the machine shop asking them to pack my sealed bearings, lol.

Ok, so I finally got one of the two axle nuts off tonight (long story) while trying to dissasemble the rest of the hub I came to a stopping point when trying to remove the lower ball-joint. Is there a nut somewhere I'm supposed to remove? I've looked at the online manual and I don't see one. Do I put this ball-joint remover between the lower control arm and the hub or the lower control arm and the bottom of the ball joint? Thanks again!

EDIT: Another question. Holy crap, are these break disc's supposed to look like this? Do these pads "float?" Because these are the most not-flat disc's I've ever seen yet I've never felt any indication of warped disc's while driving the car...
not sure why you're trying to remove the lower ball joint.. that's unnecessary.. all you need to do is take out the bolt/nut that pulls the spindle together at the balljoint.. and once that bolt's out, you can hammer the control arm until it comes loose...

[imola.zhp]

According to page 3 here, http://pub.djgamblore.com/mazdap5/Workshop_Manual/03-11.PDF the lower ball joint is the 5th thing you remove.

So I just hammer the lower control arm down? This will cause the lower ball joint to pull out of the bottom of the hub?

Thank you for the help!

[boostdprotegelx]

once that bolt is out, you could spray it with lube,...and yes. once that's done, just wack at it, and it'll come loose.

[cbrcrx]

new brakes are not mentioned in original post so you stated you needed input, I supplied it. You're more than welcome for the suggestion. Are you sure you installed your pads correctly?
No need to get mad. I didn't mention brakes because I knew it wasn't that. Should I mention I have some paint chips on my bumper just to make sure that isn't it?

[boostdprotegelx]

No need to get mad. I didn't mention brakes because I knew it wasn't that. Should I mention I have some paint chips on my bumper just to make sure that isn't it?

seriously guys?? stop that shit. this thread has helped a couple people. no need to act like highschoolers.

[cbrcrx]

seriously guys?? stop that shit. this thread has helped a couple people. no need to act like highschoolers.
Nice language.

[imola.zhp]

once that bolt is out, you could spray it with lube,...and yes. once that's done, just wack at it, and it'll come loose.

So I just leave the top connected to the strut and wack down at the lower a-arm/ control arm?

I'm just double-checking. So there is NO bolt on the top of this ball joint that I need to remove prior to wacking? I felt around and there was something on the back-side of the hub, but it looked more like a stud, not a nut.

Thanks, again, this thread is helpful, save that drama for your momma...

[boostdprotegelx]

So I just leave the top connected to the strut and wack down at the lower a-arm/ control arm?

I'm just double-checking. So there is NO bolt on the top of this ball joint that I need to remove prior to wacking? I felt around and there was something on the back-side of the hub, but it looked more like a stud, not a nut.

Thanks, again, this thread is helpful, save that drama for your momma...

on the lower ball joint, there's a bolt and nut, that tightens the control arm to the spindle... that bolt, once removed, will allow for you to pull off the spindle.

[imola.zhp]

^ I'll have to further investigate, thanks, again, for the help!

Any tips for removing the other axle-nut that wont come off? Even with an impact and lots of lubricant?

[boostdprotegelx]

^ I'll have to further investigate, thanks, again, for the help!

Any tips for removing the other axle-nut that wont come off? Even with an impact and lots of lubricant?

is it an air impact?? usually, i will impact it FORWARD(tighter) slightly, before i take it backwards(loose)... sometimes that helps... if you just continue to impact it, it'll come off in time... or break the axle..but.. if that's the case.. it needed off anyways..lol.

[imola.zhp]

^ thanks for the tip...

I don't have an air compressor at my house, so I filled a portable tank (borrowed from work) with 90psi and also borrowed a short hose and impact. After doing the drivers-side, there wasn't a lot of pressure left in the tank, so hopefully it will pop-off tonight when I hit it again with full-power.

[boostdprotegelx]

^ thanks for the tip...

I don't have an air compressor at my house, so I filled a portable tank (borrowed from work) with 90psi and also borrowed a short hose and impact. After doing the drivers-side, there wasn't a lot of pressure left in the tank, so hopefully it will pop-off tonight when I hit it again with full-power.

good stuff. something maybe that will help you, is a battery powered impact. that's what i have, by snap on. i think harbor freight sells them also.. but anyways, they work wonders, and you don't need to lug a compressor, or a hose around!!

[slavrenz]

good stuff. something maybe that will help you, is a battery powered impact. that's what i have, by snap on. i think harbor freight sells them also.. but anyways, they work wonders, and you don't need to lug a compressor, or a hose around!!

Don't they make electric impact wrenches as well that plug into the wall? I think that's what a friend let me borrow when I did my wheel bearings.

[boostdprotegelx]

Don't they make electric impact wrenches as well that plug into the wall? I think that's what a friend let me borrow when I did my wheel bearings.

yes they do..i'm not a huge fan of these, as i don't much care for extra cords..really limits work areas and such.. hence my battery powered impacts.

[imola.zhp]

Found that bolt and nut, removed them, and with lots of patience, finally pounded them off...

However...

The half-shafts didn't just slip out the back, are they supposed too? When I did the clutch in my previous beater (1989 Honda Civc LX) I didn't have 1/2 this amount of trouble and the spline simply pulled out of the back of the hub.

I wd-40'd them and came in to feed my dogs.

That tip with the impact worked. I hit it first in reverse (just for a second) and it didn't move, so I bumped it forward, then reverse again, it popped right off...

Also, did I do something wrong? I see no way that I could have avoided mangaling the tie-rod end and the lower ball joint when disconnecting them. All 4 of them burst open with their grease. No telling what those are going to cost or how hard they'll be to replace... grrrr

All help appreciated!

[boostdprotegelx]

Found that bolt and nut, removed them, and with lots of patience, finally pounded them off...

However...

The half-shafts didn't just slip out the back, are they supposed too? When I did the clutch in my previous beater (1989 Honda Civc LX) I didn't have 1/2 this amount of trouble and the spline simply pulled out of the back of the hub.

I wd-40'd them and came in to feed my dogs.

That tip with the impact worked. I hit it first in reverse (just for a second) and it didn't move, so I bumped it forward, then reverse again, it popped right off...

Also, did I do something wrong? I see no way that I could have avoided mangaling the tie-rod end and the lower ball joint when disconnecting them. All 4 of them burst open with their grease. No telling what those are going to cost or how hard they'll be to replace... grrrr

All help appreciated!

well.. the axle- after spraying it, put the nut on just enough to cover the end of it, then hammer it..a couple good whacks and you would have had it off..

tie rod- once the nut is off, if you would have hammered the spindle, JUST where the tie rod went through, eventually it would have popped out..
they aren't expensive anyways, and they're easy to take off.. back the nut off of the back, and twist the tie rod end off. make sure you mark with paint or white out, where you pulled it off at so the new one twists on to that, and is driveable until you get an alignment.

[imola.zhp]

^ thanks for the help...

That didn't work, yet, so I drenched it in wd and came back in, about to run to get some food.

Should I have done that before knocking out the ball joint? It just seems to move all over the place when I hit it. I tried connecting it back to the strut, but that didn't help much...

I looked at that wheel-nut that wouldn't come off, the back is SO rusty, insane, I'll take it to work to buff it off before re-installing it.

Tie rod ends look to run $30 each at vato-zone, eek! Advance has some called OE for $19.99 each, thats a little better. I cant seem to find ball joints on any auto-parts website, any reason why? In looking at the online shop manual, it talked about a "dust cover" that is full of grease. Maybe I can pick up a few of those dust covers at the dealer, fill them full of grease and pop them on?

[boostdprotegelx]

^ thanks for the help...

That didn't work, yet, so I drenched it in wd and came back in, about to run to get some food.

Should I have done that before knocking out the ball joint? It just seems to move all over the place when I hit it. I tried connecting it back to the strut, but that didn't help much...

I looked at that wheel-nut that wouldn't come off, the back is SO rusty, insane, I'll take it to work to buff it off before re-installing it.

Tie rod ends look to run $30 each at vato-zone, eek! Advance has some called OE for $19.99 each, thats a little better. I cant seem to find ball joints on any auto-parts website, any reason why? In looking at the online shop manual, it talked about a "dust cover" that is full of grease. Maybe I can pick up a few of those dust covers at the dealer, fill them full of grease and pop them on?

well.. iirc the ball joint is not replaceable.if you're talking about the one on the lower control arm.. that's apart of the control arm..

HARD RACE makes a set of control arms for like 290.00 shipped or something. and oe- is just oe equivalent. they should be fine.. i've never heard of anyone picking up the grease boot and just replacing that.. but..w/e

[imola.zhp]

^ I was afraid of that...

Thats not so much in my budget for this car, it has plenty of other issues that cash needs to be spent on.

I'll look more into the dust-cap thing, there was a section on a page in the online manual about it, should be doable...

I tried all kinds of things to "press out" the 1/2 shaft, is there truly nothing else holding it in?

[boostdprotegelx]

^ I was afraid of that...

Thats not so much in my budget for this car, it has plenty of other issues that cash needs to be spent on.

I'll look more into the dust-cap thing, there was a section on a page in the online manual about it, should be doable...

I tried all kinds of things to "press out" the 1/2 shaft, is there truly nothing else holding it in?

yeah. there's nothing holding the shaft onto the spindle but the nut on the front of it that holds it to the hub..

[imola.zhp]

^ thanks, still no luck...

In doing more research, I found that some M247'ers pulled the half-shafts out to then use some other means to release them from the hub. I've got them out of the car, in the trunk of my BMW, and I'm about to head off to work to make some type of press to press them out...

Question. When I pulled the 1/2 shafts LOTS of fluid came out of the tranny. Lucky me... Anyhow, was that supposed to happen? Or is there a seal up in there that needs to be replaced while I have all of this apart? I've been planning to change the tranny fluid since I bought the car (almost a year ago) so no big deal, just something else I have to do now. As well as run over to the ghetto to pick up those $19.99 tie-rod ends. Oh, and run to Mazda to get new wheel nuts (f'ed them up hammering on them) and see about those "dust" caps...

[boostdprotegelx]

^ thanks, still no luck...

In doing more research, I found that some M247'ers pulled the half-shafts out to then use some other means to release them from the hub. I've got them out of the car, in the trunk of my BMW, and I'm about to head off to work to make some type of press to press them out...

Question. When I pulled the 1/2 shafts LOTS of fluid came out of the tranny. Lucky me... Anyhow, was that supposed to happen? Or is there a seal up in there that needs to be replaced while I have all of this apart? I've been planning to change the tranny fluid since I bought the car (almost a year ago) so no big deal, just something else I have to do now. As well as run over to the ghetto to pick up those $19.99 tie-rod ends. Oh, and run to Mazda to get new wheel nuts (f'ed them up hammering on them) and see about those "dust" caps...

it's weird that you can't get them loose. i have never really had any issues with them. anyways.. yes, fluid will come out almost always.. the axle is like a seal for the fluid.you should prolly replace the axle seal though.(that's the one on the trans, where the axle goes in). good luck my friend.

[imola.zhp]

^ thanks for the extra info...

I finally got them apart!

After hammering and messing up the threads on the drivers-side 1/2 shaft (will probably have to replace) I fount a 3-point press in the back of a tool-box drawer at work. Lube, impact and a little patience and it pressed them both out!

About to leave work, just wanted to look at that online manual again, because I think it said something else needed to be seperated. I'm going to look and see if its something I want to do or just have the shop I'm taking them to do. They said they might be able to have them done today if I can get it to them by 1, so I'm about to haul @$$ back across town...

Although I'm having to replace lots of extra parts, I'm still doing better than $500 for just one side and an alignment. I talked to a local p5 guy that just had the dealership do his, also $500, but for both sides.

Thanks, again, for the help!

EDIT: Nope, its the part talking about pressing out the part on the inside of the bearing (spline, studs, etc) so the shop will have to do that...

GOT TO RUN!

[P-Funk!]

I just lowered my car last weekend and as soon as I drove off I noticed the same noise from the front only. I'm going to get the car aligned this weekend. I can't see how from stock height and 16s there was zero noise, and immediately after putting the struts/springs on and driving off with my new wheels there was instantly noise (mostly around 10-25 mph.)

You may have a rub - look inside the front fenderwells for shiny spots. If wheel offset isn't adequate it could be on the suspension.

These tires could just be noisier.