Touch Up Paint

[CX9 SportOwner]

Got my paint from Paint Scratch. Looks like a perfect match. Fast Delivery

http://www.paintscratch.com

if you need touch up paint.

[vikefan7]

What did you end up getting? I have a chipped area on the rear quarterpanel that I need to take care of. Any suggestions on how/ what to use? I saw they had some pen thing and the clearcoat and midcoat?

[CX9 SportOwner]

I tore some deep scratches in the front corner above the driving light blank. Since touch up wouldn't work, I ordered a spray can of Galaxy Gray, Clear Coat, and a bottle of rubbing compound.

I also bought a can of fill primer for plastic components locally.

I had to sand down and fill the gouges and a few chips, including one on the passenger mirror.

If you have a clean chip out of the paint only, you can fill it in 2 or 3 layers and be okay. If it's larger than 1/16" or so, then you have to do a concentric fill, sand it down smooth, and clear coat the area around it. Then rebuff with rubbing compound. Not polishing compound or wax.

For filling I prefer a pin or toothpick. The brushes and dobbers don't really work. Just get a drop on the end and touch the center of the chip.

[vikefan7]

Yuck! Sounds like a lot of work. Don't know if I feel comfortable sanding my car and rebuffing with a rubbing compound. I thought I could just buy the touch-up and fill in the chip with paint, dry and then repeat.

[CX9 SportOwner]

If its tiny, yes. If it's visible from 10 feet away, even well filled it will show because of the lack of clear coat.

Got a photo of your chip?

[vikefan7]

I'll take one and post it to see if you can let me know how serious it is. Thanks.

[CX9 SportOwner]

Include a reference

[sbmrinaldi]

I used Color Rite in the past. They make nice stick pens that have a nice precision tip. Run about $20 a stick.

[CX9 SportOwner]

Hey vike, did you get it fixed?

Here is my bumper repair...

[CX9 SportOwner]

and the mirror....


.

[ZoomFive]

Hey vike, did you get it fixed?

Here is my bumper repair...


Turned out really nice. Great job. Was this the first time you refinished a car?

[CX9 SportOwner]

Thanks. I did some small touch up work on my truck, but that's a white work truck and I did a quickie just to make it look a little better.

Never did such a large visible area, and not on a car this nice, or with paint like this. Pretty good match from Paint Scratch, and nice rubbing compound and lacquer. I'm ordering more of the rubbing compound just to keep the clear coat looking good. I used it on some minor marks and scratches and they disappeared.

I found out when doing the mirror that they had the same problem as the interior trim pieces that peeled. You can see the big bare spot in the middle. Once I breached the clear coat, everything dissolved the paint; Windex, primer, even the new paint. I ended up having to totally strip the piece and start from scratch, so that is all new paint.

There wasn't primer on the mirrors, so I'm guessing they used a plastic bonder right in the paint that didn't work.

Some owners have talked about removing the rear emblems, but they have studs. That would be a much easier paint repair than what I did here.

[vikefan7]

No, I haven't had a chance to have the car clean and take a pic. I actually just ran through a rock shower the other day and got a bunch more chips out of the front of the car. I was two cars behind a semi who went onto the shoulder and threw up a bunch of rocks at us. Sounded like it was hailing.

I have the worst luck with this stuff. The same thing happened to me three months after I bought my new Sentra a couple years ago. I'm thinking about putting in a comp claim in to fix it. I wish carmakers used paint that didn't scratch and chip if you look at it wrong. I've got the worst swirl marks or clouded areas on the thing from the dealer buffing it before they gave it to me. Any ideas on how to get rid of them. I'll try to take a pic of that and the chip to see if I can just touch it up and not have to do what you did.

It looks awesome btw. I don't think I would ever try to repaint my vehicle, but I'm not exactly the handiest of handymen.

[CX9 SportOwner]

I've got the worst swirl marks or clouded areas on the thing from the dealer buffing it before they gave it to me. Any ideas on how to get rid of them.

It looks awesome btw. I don't think I would ever try to repaint my vehicle, but I'm not exactly the handiest of handymen.

Thank you for those kind words, Your Majesty.

Get a good rubbing compound. NOT polishing compound or swirl remover. Paint shop rubbing compound. The one I bought from Paint Scratch to do this job works great, as I said. You can hand apply it and get rid of any clear coat marks, as long as they aren't dig in.

As far as the paint repair, if you are a little patient it's really easy to do. The two keys are knowing how to spray paint (particularly with the mica paint), and identifying your mask and feather lines.
I did this in an afternoon, except for polishing the clear coat, which has to be done at least 3 days later. We also avoided driving the car on the highway until then.
This was my first repaint on a nice car. I did have a lot of spray can experience from building models, and rebuilding cars and motorcycles. (repainting frames and engine blocks, etc.)

Let's have a look at your paint. front and back.

[vikefan7]

Your majesty?

I'll try to get a pic tonight and appreciate the help.

[clandestine]

I'm not being critical here, just want to make sure everyone understands - auto paint, especially metallic paint, is virtually impossible to get an exact match on. for jobs larger than rock chips on bumpers, if you have a sharp eye for detail, want a perfect match and have the cash, I would advise against DIY... unless of course you know what you're doing.

the body shop I took my last car to refuses to do spot-repair. they paint the entire panel and feather the edges to the connecting panels so you can't see the difference. I can't tell you how many bumpers I look at where I can clearly see the difference in the shade of the body, when someone brings their car post-fender bender to the lowest bidder instead of a quality shop. I also know a guy who had a body kit put on a relatively new 350z. Paid thousands for a beautiful kit, waited months for it to arrive from China, and told the shop to paint it the factory color. the problem is, paint fades, so a match to factory paint doesn't match the car. I can clearly see the difference between the body kit and the car, the car being several shades lighter than the kit. I don't have the heart to tell him though; ignorance is bliss.

now if you don't have the cash or the eye for detail, or are color blind, drive entirely at night, or your objective is simply to make it look a lot better, then go for it. 98% of the population will probably never notice. but it sounds like some of you aren't aware of this, and if you care enough to spend time on this forum, chances are good you care enough to want an exact match.

[CX9 SportOwner]

I'm guessing you fall under the category "don't know what you're doing" then. I don't appreciate you calling me a fraud and my repair can't be real, because it can't be done.

It's not that hard to match with a little care and attention to detail.

I JUST did it. How can you state that it's impossible? I know exactly where I feathered my repair, and I can't see the transition. The paint is perfect. Maybe your shop just sucks, since they refuse to do what I did in my garage in a couple of hours.

There are plenty of bad body shops out there, but that doesn't mean it cant be done.

UGH.

[clandestine]

gee, you're awfully sensitive.

I'm not being critical here, just want to make sure everyone understands...

...because it sounds like some people might not understand what they may be getting into.

yes, I fall under the category of "don't know what I'm doing." my post was not in response to your original post, which you've obviously assumed. I think it's great you chose to share the knowledge, that is what we're here for. but to someone who has never had paint work done, I think it's important that they take ALL things into consideration. if someone follows your advice but DOESN'T know what they're doing, they probably won't be happy with the outcome. you failed to mention that. I was simply filling in the blanks, sharing my experience, trying to help (others).

As far as your flaming and your defense for name calling and accusations which I never made, grow the F--- up already (http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123732611). or take your medication, or whatever.

[CX9 SportOwner]

Excuse me, but you made absolute statements. Not statements with qualifiers.

I know that most people will not attempt this. I said it can be done, IF you know how to paint with a spray can, and have some patience and detail. I did this with basic knowledge and almost no experience on car bodies.

You said it's impossible. Period.

I'm defending against your negative absolute, and not 'flaming' anything, or anyone. Vike needs a repair, and I want him to know that it can be done, even with little experience. I'm trying to help encourage people, you come on and make them feel helpless.

You're the one with the negtive knee jerk reaction and insults.

[clandestine]

actually I said 'virtually' impossible. arguing with you would be as pointless as arguing with a child, so I'll let that drop along with all of the other erroneous comments you've made. and when I ignore any attacks you make on my future posts, opinions, etc., you'll know why.

(screwy)

[clandestine]

you know I really did intend to let this go, but f--- it. this is starting to get funny now.

I'm not discouraging anyone, I just want people to make an educated decision, taking all things into consideration. this includes potentially ignoring my advice - it's up to the reader to decide what to do with it.

sharing ~my~ experiences is not 'factless' at all. in fact, I am sharing the FACTS of ~my~ experiences. here's another fact: when I told my ex the body shop didn't properly match her bumper cover after her accident, she took one look at it and said I was right, and that she might not have noticed it if I hadn't said anything. she brought it to the body shop and they agreed with my assessment, and repainted the bumper cover - hassle free and free of charge. but please, encourage people to ignore me and listen to you, because I'd really hate it if your fragile ego was somehow damaged.

BTW, since you painted a bullseye on your own forehead by COMPLETELY misquoting me, I just wanted to mention: if the 4th photo is an accurate representation of the job you did, I can clearly see the bumper cover is several shades darker than the quarter panel. it's especially noticeable right of the fender and left of the turn signal where the two panels meet. the finish looks decent, but the shades are off. at first I thought maybe the light was hitting at a different angle, but the angle of the panels transition smoothly and there is a very distinct change in shade in your photo. now I know that digital photographs frequently don't represent colors and shades accurately so I don't take for granted that WYSIWYG. and I'm not one to get off on putting anyone down (I make exceptions for overly-opinionated bastards that slander me), but I've got to tell you... if that picture is in fact accurate, the paint clearly doesn't match. and if you ever get those cataracts corrected, you'll see exactly what I mean.

[CX9 SportOwner]

For admitting you know nothing about panting a car, you sure talk like an expert.

Your opinions are based on a shop that did a poor job. Not EVERY shop. You're quite insulting, too.



The shade difference is a result of the angle and camera. In the real world they match perfectly, both paint and shine. The photo is intended to show the overall paint job. had you bothered to look closer, you'd see that even on the hood you get the exact same two tones: dark and light. I challenge you to point out the transition between the old and new, on the right side of the photo.

[clandestine]

For admitting you know nothing about panting a car, you sure talk like an expert.

that's because I have the humility not to overstate my knowledge and admit to zero personal experience in the area. I also had the humility to ask the experts lots of questions when the opportunity did present itself, and to actually LEARN from other people. but I never said I didn't know anything.

Your opinions are based on a shop that did a poor job. Not EVERY shop.

that's exactly right, they did a poor job. I identified it, and they agreed. that gives me a little bit of credibility in this conversation. (glare)


You're quite insulting, too.

like I said, not in my nature, but I make exception for bigots and slanderers. there should be room in this forum for opposing viewpoints and people sharing knowledge, without feeling like they're at risk of being insulted by the likes of you.

[CX9 SportOwner]

Vike Don't be intimidated should you need to do a spot repair. It CAN be done, and I will help any way I can.

[vikefan7]

Lol, I'm not intimidated. I fully plan on touching it up. I probably won't be doing any major repairs like you, but if I was more handy I would give it a go.

Here's the pic of the chip. It's pretty nasty and a little under 1/2" long. There are some wicked reflections in the pic, so hopefully you can make it out. It's dead center in the picture just above the tape. Thanks for the help.

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/108/l_a83f1b41fced47cfb1061e58e9c2a37d.jpg

[CX9 SportOwner]

Actually, you did that perfect. The phone makes a dark backdrop for the chip.

Is the chip only in the paint, or did the primer chip also? I can't quite tell, but that looks like primer.

You definitely don't need to get crazy with the repair. Mine was a series of gouges up to 1/4" wide and several inches long, with some other scrapes.

Get a touch up bottle, either from Mazda, or Paint Scratch.
Clean out the scratch well, and blow it dry if you have a compressor, or canned air.
Since the chip is horizontal, it will be a bit more tricky to lay the paint in.
Use a really small sharp object. Toothpick, or preferable a pin.
Dip it in the paint, let as much drip back off as physics will allow. Don't scrape it on the side.
Hold the pin at a 45 degree angle to the scratch. Press the tip to one end of the scratch 2/3s of the way up, and slide it across to the other end the moment it makes contact, laying the paint into the scratch.
Continue the process, reversing direction each time until it's filled.

If you want it perfect, you will need a good lacquer, rubbing compound, and fine sand paper. You don't need all the prep and steps of a repair like mine, but the additional work will make your chip disappear, rather than just be less obvious.

If you want to know how to do that, let me know. You can alway try the fill method first then go back and correct it later if you don;t like how it looks.

[vikefan7]

Cool. I'll give it a go. What do the lacquer and rubbing compound do? You had mentioned using a rubbing compound to take out the swirls from the crappy buff job the dealership had done. I wasn't able to get a good picture of the somewhat cloudy areas in the paint.

[CX9 SportOwner]

If you don't like how the fill looks, you can use fine sandpaper to smooth the touch up paint, like a filler. Then you use an even finer sandpaper to smooth the last layer of paint, then shoot it with automotive lacquer, feathering it out past the repair, which isn't much in your case. basically you will shoot a quick burst into the air away from the car, then a quick one on the spot. Repeat that at least 3 times at about 10 minute intervals. The air burst first is to avoid splatters on the car. Also, rather than pointing it at the spot and shooting, I'd do a short sweep across the spot, starting the spray just before the spot, and stopping the spray just after it.. This will prevent globs and drips.

Once the lacquer sets (3-4 days), you wipe the area off with a damp cloth, dry it, and apply the rubbing compound to shine the lacquer. I use a slightly damp terry applicator because its easy to hang on to. Then buff with a dry lint free cloth. By hand you will need to buff it at least 3 times, pressing firmly.

See how dull the pain is in photo 3 vs photo 4 of my repair? The clear does not go on glossy. It has to be buffed. The photos aren't that great. In person it's a very good match for paint and sheen.

Here is another look just before I buffed the lacquer:

.

[CX9 SportOwner]

Took a photo at an equal angle, just to show the color match...


I just noticed that the cat was behind me.


.

[gavilan_pr]

Sportsowner:

Dam your good that paint job came out NICE!

[CX9 SportOwner]

Thanks. The mica density and depth is slightly different, but that's mainly to me not layering it as much. It's still a pretty good match, since only I can see it.

Not bad for 3 hours work.

paintscratch has some nice painting materials for DIY.

[twelveinch]

Alright, so here are the pictures. Please note I used regular white paint after I used bondo and primer to see if I'm going to have these uneven buildups of paint around the corners where the masking tape was- and I did. It was just a cheap cost effective way of not wasting expensive ass paint that 34K is.

Nevertheless, here are the pictures, I will be working later today or tomorrow on sanding down that area again.

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r74/LibertyFalls/IMG_0836.jpg

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r74/LibertyFalls/IMG_0837.jpg

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r74/LibertyFalls/IMG_0838.jpg


The reason the outlines in picture three are so dirty is because the car has been sitting there for over a week now- as you can see I'm working on other things as well; oily and dirty hands will do that....

I'll post new pictures when I mask off that area again and finish sanding it down.

Thanks,
Sebastian

[CX9 SportOwner]

Well, first, is the spot metal? Second, exactly what have you applied so far?

Some wider shots will also help.

[twelveinch]

Yeah, the spot is metal. So, far I applied bondo to fill in the deep cracks (all the way to metal) then I sanded that down and applied general automotive primer.

[twelveinch]

Here are three more pics from further away- this is the best I could do as space is limited.

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r74/LibertyFalls/IMG_0846.jpg

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r74/LibertyFalls/IMG_0847.jpg

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r74/LibertyFalls/IMG_0848.jpg

[CX9 SportOwner]

Fine sand the spot I marked until it's smooth. for the final presand, I use those 3M SandBlaster Flexible Finishing Pads. 320, then 400. They will smooth the surface without gouging.

To check for any remaining scratches, wipe the area with a lightly damp towel.

Clean the entire fender VERY well.

Tape off the exposed edges, behind the exterior surface. (Inside the hood, the headlight flange, etc.
Tape the oval black thing I circled, and the leading edge of the door.
Tape off the lower rocker molding.
Cover the Wheel or Hub, and engine with newspaper, etc.

You want the entire fender exposed, except that black thing.

When you paint, you will do back and forth bursts slightly beyond the spot you sanded, top to bottom. Nice light coats. Smooth, but not rough or glossy.

Wait 15 minutes between coats. Apply at least 3 coats. 4 is better.

Wait 30 minutes.

Spray the lacquer the same way as the paint, but overlap the paint by a few inches.

Wait 15 minutes between coats. Apply 4 coats.

The finish will be dull. Don't panic, you didn't do it wrong.

Wait 4 days and then use the rubbing compound to polish the clear coat. If you have a power buffer, use it. Otherwise it will take many applications to get the shine. I used a simple faux lambs wool pad in my drill. Keep moving so you don't burn the paint, if you use one. Wait 30 days to use any paste finishes.

That's it. If anything is unclear, ask.

Have you got the paint, clear, and rubbing compound yet?

.

[twelveinch]

Fine sand the spot I marked until it's smooth. for the final presand, I use those 3M SandBlaster Flexible Finishing Pads. 320, then 400. They will smooth the surface without gouging.

To check for any remaining scratches, wipe the area with a lightly damp towel.

Clean the entire fender VERY well.

Tape off the exposed edges, behind the exterior surface. (Inside the hood, the headlight flange, etc.
Tape the oval black thing I circled, and the leading edge of the door.
Tape off the lower rocker molding.
Cover the Wheel or Hub, and engine with newspaper, etc.

You want the entire fender exposed, except that black thing.

When you paint, you will do back and forth bursts slightly beyond the spot you sanded, top to bottom. Nice light coats. Smooth, but not rough or glossy.

Wait 15 minutes between coats. Apply at least 3 coats. 4 is better.

Wait 30 minutes.

Spray the lacquer the same way as the paint, but overlap the paint by a few inches.

Wait 15 minutes between coats. Apply 4 coats.

The finish will be dull. Don't panic, you didn't do it wrong.

Wait 4 days and then use the rubbing compound to polish the clear coat. If you have a power buffer, use it. Otherwise it will take many applications to get the shine. I used a simple faux lambs wool pad in my drill. Keep moving so you don't burn the paint, if you use one. Wait 30 days to use any paste finishes.

That's it. If anything is unclear, ask.

Have you got the paint, clear, and rubbing compound yet?

.




Thanks a lot for the response. There's several things that are unclear so I will ask:

1st: the black oval (side reflector) I will completely remove when repainting. It takes like 5 seconds to remove the whole reflector so I will mask that exposed whole from the inside of the fender.

OK. So from what I understand is this: I tape everything off- first mask the entire fender's edges. Then, like you said, obviously cover everything else...wheel, engine, etc. Bottom line, have nothing but the WHOLE fender exposed.

Now, the larger area that you have circled, I don't need to mask that, right? I just sand down that area like you said? (That's what you did looking from your pictures) if so, I'm understanding this and I am on the right track...

So, with everything covered and that area sanded- I am just repairing or I should say repainting just that area and not the whole fender- even with the clear coat/lacquer, correct?


So, the following steps you outlined:


When you paint, you will do back and forth bursts slightly beyond the spot you sanded, top to bottom. Nice light coats. Smooth, but not rough or glossy.

Wait 15 minutes between coats. Apply at least 3 coats. 4 is better.

Wait 30 minutes.

Spray the lacquer the same way as the paint, but overlap the paint by a few inches.

Wait 15 minutes between coats. Apply 4 coats.

The finish will be dull. Don't panic, you didn't do it wrong.

Wait 4 days and then use the rubbing compound to polish the clear coat. If you have a power buffer, use it.


All those steps are being done just to the area that is primed and sanded? Correct? So, I'm assuming after four days when using a rubbing compound to polish the clear coat- this is what's going to make that repaired area smooth and flushed with the rest of the fender, correct?

Tomorrow, I will post pictures of how I masked the fender just to make sure I did it right.

Also, most importantly, I didn't get the paint, clear and rubbing compound yet. Can you please tell me which clear to get? Because I don't want to get something that isn't needed. Especially with this color, I heard some paint (34K) comes already with a clear coat or something?

If you can tell me exactly what I need (the brand products) I'll make the purchase tomorrow from paint scratch.

Thanks!
-Sebastian

[CX9 SportOwner]

1st: the black oval (side reflector) I will completely remove when repainting. It takes like 5 seconds to remove the whole reflector so I will mask that exposed whole from the inside of the fender.

Even easier.

OK. So from what I understand is this: I tape everything off- first mask the entire fender's edges. Then, like you said, obviously cover everything else...wheel, engine, etc. Bottom line, have nothing but the WHOLE fender exposed.

Correct

Now, the larger area that you have circled, I don't need to mask that, right? I just sand down that area like you said? (That's what you did looking from your pictures) if so, I'm understanding this and I am on the right track...

Also correct. You will sand where I circled, and then paint that area.

So, with everything covered and that area sanded- I am just repairing or I should say repainting just that area and not the whole fender- even with the clear coat/lacquer, correct?

Yes. Just that spot.


So, the following steps you outlined:

When you paint, you will do back and forth bursts slightly beyond the spot you sanded, top to bottom. Nice light coats. Smooth, but not rough or glossy.

Wait 15 minutes between coats. Apply at least 3 coats. 4 is better.

Wait 30 minutes.

Spray the lacquer the same way as the paint, but overlap the paint by a few inches.

Wait 15 minutes between coats. Apply 4 coats.

The finish will be dull. Don't panic, you didn't do it wrong.

Wait 4 days and then use the rubbing compound to polish the clear coat. If you have a power buffer, use it.


All those steps are being done just to the area that is primed and sanded? Correct? So, I'm assuming after four days when using a rubbing compound to polish the clear coat- this is what's going to make that repaired area smooth and flushed with the rest of the fender, correct?

Correct. Each step slightly overlaps the last.

Also, most importantly, I didn't get the paint, clear and rubbing compound yet. Can you please tell me which clear to get? Because I don't want to get something that isn't needed. Especially with this color, I heard some paint (34K) comes already with a clear coat or something?
If you can tell me exactly what I need (the brand products) I'll make the purchase tomorrow from paint scratch.

12.5oz. Base Coat, mixed from your paint code.
12.5 oz Clear Coat.
2oz. Bottle Rubbing Compound Since you didn't specify your exact vehicle or paint code, my list is based on a standard base/clear, not a tricoat. Enter your vehicle info at PaintScratch, and it will tell you. Then, order the Spray Can Kit, but delete the thinners and wax removers. (The sanding and thorough cleaning with a damp cloth will take care of that unless you have very heavy wax on the car. Then order the wax remover)

This illustrates just how important it is to be exact and specific about your vehicle when asking for advice.

[twelveinch]

Thanks again, I really appreciate it. However, I did specify the car's color code which is 34K Crystal White Pearl.

If I remember correctly the 34K paint is a tri-coat and if so, do I still need a stand alone clear coat?

[CX9 SportOwner]

You didn't give the year, so I couldn't look it up.

When you enter the vehicle info and select the spray kit (no primer), it will tell you what you need in the spray kit.

[twelveinch]

Oh, shit, sorry it's a 2008.

I will look it up myself tomorrow and I'll post back what I'm going to buy before actually buying it to make sure it's everything that I need.

Thanks again,
Sebastian.

Oh, how much cans would I need to let's say repaint the whole front bumper? I'm re-designing a few things (well, I'm panning it but will I put it to work later in the week, I dunno) but if I do I'm just thinking that repainting the whole front bumper all at once would be better and easier.

[CX9 SportOwner]

It's a tricoat. Just order the Spray Can kit based on your paint code and delete the wax remover and others items, unless you need them. I didn't.

If it's a one piece fascia, you will need 3 sets of everything, base, mid, and clear, and the rubbing compound. I'd get an estimate from some shops before going the spray can route for the entire front. A single can of each would barely do your fender.