2002 P5 smoking, burning oil, rough idle...

[Bright on3]

I just got a 2002 Protege5 2.0L 5-Speed. It is having a rough time staying at idle. In the morning, when the engine is cold, It smokes VERY bad. The smoking dies down when the car warms up but still smokes lightly. It is using oil very badly. The check engine light came on and the OBDII says ''EGR flow insufficent''. Ive cleared the code, but it came back the same day. When accelerating, during 2-5k RPM the car stumbles and hesitates VERY badly. Will the EGR valve cause ALL these problems? Or could the DPFE cause this?

It also has STI coilpacks on it... is this good for it??

All opinions and ideas of what could be wrong are appreciated.

Thanks guys!
-Rhett

[StealthWyvern]

The EGR will cause a real bad idle if its dirty. I'm not sure what a DPFE is. A bad PCV valve can cause bad oil consumption as well. Clean the EGR, replace PCV valve and replace the spark plugs at least.

[Bright on3]

The EGR will cause a real bad idle if its dirty. I'm not sure what a DPFE is. A bad PCV valve can cause bad oil consumption as well. Clean the EGR, replace PCV valve and replace the spark plugs at least.

Is there a 'how to' on replacing the PCV valve?

[MazdaSpeeder]

It's super easy...it's the 90 degree elbow on top of the valve cover. Remove and replace. If you can blow air through it both ways, it's bad. Any other symptoms that would explain the smoking? Engine noises that are unfamiliar, things like that?

[StealthWyvern]

Is there a 'how to' on replacing the PCV valve?

It's straight forward and is on top of the valve cover. Just pull it out and replace.

Edit: What mileage is on the engine? What weight oil are you using? And Why do you think it has STI coil packs on it?

[Bright on3]

The engine sounds normal, no ticking..knocking etc. Ive only had the car about 3 days so i havent had time to change the oil, So im not sure what weight is in it right now. The guy i got it from from was bragging about the STI coilpacks on it (acting like it was a performance upgrade).. im wondering it they have something to do with the sputter going throigh 2-5k RPM. The engine only has 84K miles on it. The car is VERY clean and its awesome except for the horrible oil consumption. Im hoping that after cleaning the EGR, Replacing the PCV valve and plugs that the car will run smoke free and smooth.

[slavrenz]

Not to be an ass, but didn't you notice any of these problems before you bought the car? At the very least you should've taken it in to a mechanic for a thorough inspection. I'm guessing if he put "Performance" coilpacks on the car, then he ran the engine pretty hard (not necessarily because he could so much as he thought he could), so it may have some abnormal wear and tear on the inside.

[i12drivemyMP5]

I'm goin with dirty egr = bad idle. Maybe on the PCV = oil burning. It's a cheap test but my bet is that the valve seals are toast = bad smoking/oil consumption.

[StealthWyvern]

I'm goin with dirty egr = bad idle. Maybe on the PCV = oil burning. It's a cheap test but my bet is that the valve seals are toast = bad smoking/oil consumption.

My old P5 went through 3 oil sending units(all leaked bad) and 1 bad pcv valve. The oil consumption went way down to below .5 qrt per 3k miles were it was going through 1.5qrt every 3k with around 160k on the clock after I replaced the oil sending unit and pcv valve. Eithe way both items around cheap.

It could be the seals but I doubt it with less then 100k on it. I have been known to be wrong before.

[i12drivemyMP5]

Oh yeah, forgot about that one but didn't see where OP said anything about puddles or dripping which is what would happen if all that was going out the oil pressure sending unit right? I was going off the smoking references. Guess he'll tell us eventually what was happening.

[StealthWyvern]

Oh yeah, forgot about that one but didn't see where OP said anything about puddles or dripping which is what would happen if all that was going out the oil pressure sending unit right? I was going off the smoking references. Guess he'll tell us eventually what was happening.

I didn't know mine was leaking tell I went to remove my oil filter. I had one hell of a time getting that damn oil filter off without a wrench. However the bad pcv valve could get stuck open and gum up the egr valve.


Edit: I'm still woundering what the hell a DPFE is.

[Bright on3]

I traded even for my 95' integra.. come on now lol. Idc how bad its smokin... integra with 150k miles vs. 02' protege.. ;) DPFE - differental pressure feedback EGR.

[Bright on3]

well cleaned the egr (which was filthy) and tested the pvc and it is still good. The car idled alot better for about 10mins then went back to the same rough idle and dying crap. At times the car smokes so bad you cant even see what is behind me in my rearview lol. Im usuing a 1qt. every 20miles. It is horrible.. how hard are valve seals to put in? and is this more than likely the problem?

[KZL_99ES]

what about the millenia PCV? will that help even if you're na?

[Bright on3]

what about the millenia PCV? will that help even if you're na?

Is that another PCV i can use?

[mp3-79bronco]

lol 1 quart every 20 miles...your rings are gone buddy...you need the bottom end rebuilt asap..your just gonna fuck it up more by driving it...atleast now you have a block to work with

[KZL_99ES]

http://siteground207.com/~protegeg/product_info.php?products_id=350 (http://siteground207.com/%7Eprotegeg/product_info.php?products_id=350)

now it says only for FI, but would it still help for NA?

[StealthWyvern]

http://siteground207.com/~protegeg/product_info.php?products_id=350 (http://siteground207.com/%7Eprotegeg/product_info.php?products_id=350)

now it says only for FI, but would it still help for NA?

WHy wouldnt it help NA but it sounds like he has other issues.


well cleaned the egr (which was filthy) and tested the pvc and it is still good. The car idled alot better for about 10mins then went back to the same rough idle and dying crap. At times the car smokes so bad you cant even see what is behind me in my rearview lol. Im usuing a 1qt. every 20miles. It is horrible.. how hard are valve seals to put in? and is this more than likely the problem?

Sounds like you have major issues right their man.... I would suggest looking into new motor soon.

[slavrenz]

I agree with the above posters. It sounds like your piston rings are shot to hell man. Again, that's why I always suggest taking a used car to a mechanic before you buy it. A 30 second compression test would've caught this easily.

[el_Don]

Just to be sure, what color is the smoke coming out of your car?

[i12drivemyMP5]

Yeah, I'm thinkin black would be rings, bluish white would be oil leak & white that dissipates would be steam from water leak like from cracked head. All of these should smell different too. Black would smell like gas, bluish white would be burnt oil smell & steam would be crazy putrid eye burning antifreeze smell.

[Bright on3]

The smoke is blueish white and smells just like burnt oil. It seems to not smoke as bad when it warms up, but does still smoke. When it is cold is when it smokes the worst. So now i should be thinking its the rings? Cause when the rings went on my mz3 it was smoking black smoke..

[Bright on3]

Again, i would rather put another motor in and keep this trade than go back to the 95 integra. lol

[Bright on3]

i can post a video if that would help you guys give me an idea of the cause.. i could like it to be the valve seals cause i can replace those.. but will valve seals make it use oil THIS bad?

[mp3-79bronco]

do a compression and leak down test....problem solved

[slavrenz]

We can argue about the color of the smoke all day, but I can't think of anything else that would cause you to lose so much oil so quickly.

[Bright on3]

Alright ill do a compression and leak down this week. Which one means what is wrong tho? I guess compression means rings ,and leak down means valve seals? Correct me if im wrong please!

thanks so much for all the help guys.

[slavrenz]

First you do a normal compression test. If you are losing pressure in one a cylinder, it means one of three things - if there is an adjacent cylinder also losing pressure but the rest are fine, you more than likely have blown a head gasket. If not, then it means either your rings or your valves are bad. To test, pour a teaspoon of clean engine oil in through the spark plug hole and redo the compression test. The oil will temporarily seal your bad rings and you should get good compression. If your compression does indeed improve, then you have bad piston rings. If however, your compression is still bad, you have leaking valve seals.

I hope this all makes sense. Anything above 120-130 psi is w/in spec, if I recall, and I think all cylinders have to be within 25 psi or so of each other).

Try these tests, and let us know how things go.

[mp3-79bronco]

i thought it was within like 5 psi of each other...

[slavrenz]

i thought it was within like 5 psi of each other...

Nope - looking at the manual right now. It says standard pressure is 171 psi, minimum pressure is 119 psi, and max difference between cylinders is 28 psi.

[Bright on3]

Alright i will do this in the morning possibly.. i want to get this car running good so bad. It a awesome looking car, ill post some pics up for you guys :)
thank you very much for your help. i will keep this updated as soon as i find whats wrong.

[flash75]

I don't think bad valve stem seals or a bad PCV valve can cause a car to use a quart of oil in 20 miles in an otherwise healthy engine. I'm assuming you have looked for a big puddle of oil under the engine. Have you looked at the spark plugs? Compare them with the plugs in this link to determine their condition.
http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs_catalog.html

Bad valve seals will not affect compression. Compression is checked within the combustion chamber when the valves close. The valve seals are outside the combustion chamber.

A leak down test only checks for leaks from the combustion chamber. By listening for escaping air it can tell you if the combustion chamber leaks through the intake, exhaust or crankcase. It does not indicate the condition of the valve stem seals.

Those checks are OK but you are going to have to at least remove the cylinder head to determine the cause of your heavy oil consumption. Be prepared to spend $$ for an engine rebuild or replacement.

Clifton

[Bright on3]

I have looked under the car and there is a small oil leak right under(kinda behind) the exhaust manifold on the left side. I never noticed the leak because its leaking on the skid plate and not on the ground. I still dont think its leaking very badly tho. I havent checked the plugs but i will today and let you know how they look. I really hope its the valve seals b/c if the rings are gone i would rather just put a new engine in lol. At around 2500RPM there is a sound coming from the head that almost sounds like a rattle snake buzzing or rattling(similar to the sound a SSQ Blow off valve fluter makes). But it only makes the noise at 2500PRM. Also, when i am driving and want to accelerate, the car will stumble and sputter VERY badly (at times wont even pass 4000RPM for a few seconds) from 2500RPM to 5500RPM and as soon as it gets to 5500RPM it just throws me back in the seat with power, Like all the sputter disappears. I will calculate exactly how many miles it takes to use a quart today, i was just estimating about 20miles per qt. b/c it feels so bad.

[slavrenz]

I don't think bad valve stem seals or a bad PCV valve can cause a car to use a quart of oil in 20 miles in an otherwise healthy engine. I'm assuming you have looked for a big puddle of oil under the engine. Have you looked at the spark plugs? Compare them with the plugs in this link to determine their condition.
http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs_catalog.html

Bad valve seals will not affect compression. Compression is checked within the combustion chamber when the valves close. The valve seals are outside the combustion chamber.

A leak down test only checks for leaks from the combustion chamber. By listening for escaping air it can tell you if the combustion chamber leaks through the intake, exhaust or crankcase. It does not indicate the condition of the valve stem seals.

Those checks are OK but you are going to have to at least remove the cylinder head to determine the cause of your heavy oil consumption. Be prepared to spend $$ for an engine rebuild or replacement.

Clifton

You're right - I was getting some of my terminology mixed up. But if you have bad valve seals, typically don't you have valve leaks because your valves are sitting quite right in your head?

I agree that you are probably going to end up pulling the head. But those checks are still good so that you might be able to narrow down the problem before you even get in there.

And I guess I didn't give much thought to the obvious - make sure you don't have a giant pool of oil under the car (dance)

[flash75]

Yes there will be leaks if the seals are bad, that would perhaps add a small amount of air and maybe a drop of oil on the intake stroke. It's not a big enough difference to affect the compression reading.

I have compression and leak down gauges, and would use them if I had a problem. But if you carry the car to a good mechanic he may feel a compression and leak down check is a waste of time for Bright on3's problem. If faced with a smaller problem instead of a huge oil loss the preliminary checks would help to pin down the specific area of the problem.

Clifton

[slavrenz]

Yes there will be leaks if the seals are bad, that would perhaps add a small amount of air and maybe a drop of oil on the intake stroke. It's not a big enough difference to affect the compression reading.

I have compression and leak down gauges, and would use them if I had a problem. But if you carry the car to a good mechanic he may feel a compression and leak down check is a waste of time for Bright on3's problem. If faced with a smaller problem instead of a huge oil loss the preliminary checks would help to pin down the specific area of the problem.

Clifton

True enough ;)

[Bright on3]

well i took the plugs out and the two on the right look perfect but the left two plugs were covered in oil and i can look down the plug hole and see oil puddled down in there. but i was driving today and the engine stopped working. It sounds like the valves warped when i try to start it. I dont know who that would happen tho b/c i kept plenty of oil in it.

Does anyone know if a mazdaspeed protege motor will fit in my P5? If so, where to find one?
Thanks everyone.

[StealthWyvern]

all 2.0L protege motors are the same. The MSP just has a few extra stuff bolted onto the block for the oil return for the turbo and all.

see this thread.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123737670

[Bright on3]

alright thanks man, i am very familar with dealin with boosted engine. Just making sure it would all fit correctly.

[dmjddm9999]

big mistake, your valves have a huge effect on your compression and faulty valve seals will cause you to lose compression. But if you are seeing a bluish smoke then thats definately piston rings, and suggesting the amount of oil your going through, yeah that all points to piston rings

[Bright on3]

big mistake, your valves have a huge effect on your compression and faulty valve seals will cause you to lose compression. But if you are seeing a bluish smoke then thats definately piston rings, and suggesting the amount of oil your going through, yeah that all points to piston rings

Valves have warped and car wont start anymore..

[flash75]

[big mistake, your valves have a huge effect on your compression and faulty valve seals will cause you to lose compression. But if you are seeing a bluish smoke then thats definately piston rings, and suggesting the amount of oil your going through, yeah that all points to piston rings]

I never said that valves don't affect compression. Read my comment again.

"Bad valve seals will not affect compression. Compression is checked within the combustion chamber when the valves close. The valve seals are outside the combustion chamber."

I agree valves do affect compression, but do not agree the valve stem seals affect compression. Compression can only be made when intake and exhaust valves are closed. When the valves are closed the intake and exhaust ports are blocked because the valves are closed, sealing the combustion chamber. no air can enter or leave the combustion chamber during compression, assuming the valve seats and valves are in good condition. Consequently, the valve stem seals are not involved in the compression process.

Blue smoke is usually caused by oil, it can come from any leak that enters the exhaust or intake systems or blows by the rings. Blue smoke indicates oil leaks but doesn't identify the source of the leak.

Clifton

[Bright on3]

So far i have started tearing the engine down. The intake and exhaust manifold have ALOT of oil in them. The problem i was having with the oil leaking under the car was actually leaking from the exhaust manfold gasket. I am guess this would be coming from the valve problem... I will keep everyone updated on what i find out. I will pull the head tomorrow and see if i can find out what the issue is..

I am going to fix this engine i guess since i cant find a speed motor anywhere :/

[StealthWyvern]

So far i have started tearing the engine down. The intake and exhaust manifold have ALOT of oil in them. The problem i was having with the oil leaking under the car was actually leaking from the exhaust manfold gasket. I am guess this would be coming from the valve problem... I will keep everyone updated on what i find out. I will pull the head tomorrow and see if i can find out what the issue is..

I am going to fix this engine i guess since i cant find a speed motor anywhere :/

um... the speed motor and the reg pro motor are the same other then the oil pan griddle(oil return line), msp cames(wouldnt work well with NA I dont think), and the oil filter thing(I forget what its called). All of those things will unbolt from a "speed" motor and bolt to a "reg" pro motor.

[Bright on3]

where to find a speed motor or parts?

[mp3-79bronco]

OMG THERE IS NO SPEED MOTOR...the one you have now is the exact same except for one plate that has a hole for a oil return line off a turbo...

[Bright on3]

OMG THERE IS NO SPEED MOTOR...the one you have now is the exact same except for one plate that has a hole for a oil return line off a turbo...

and i find the parts where??

[StealthWyvern]

and i find the parts where??

read this thread please...

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123727771

[mp3-79bronco]

what parts? rebuild kit? goto protegegarage.com

[StealthWyvern]

what parts? rebuild kit? goto protegegarage.com

I think he is asking about the MSP oil pan griddle thing.

[Bright on3]

..

[Bright on3]

Ok i got the engine broke down... the head is going to the shop to get the valves redone and i am putting new pistons/rings in the bottom end. Before i tore the engine down... i discovered the reason the car would no longer run is because the coilpacks are not sparking.. anyone know the reason why the coilpacks wouldnt be getting spark? The check engine light will not come on no matter what now ( not even when the key is on the on position but the engine is off) and the engine temp gauge goes to the highest point on the gauge when i turn the key to on. Any idea what is going on with the electronics? possibly a fuse, relay or something?

[Bright on3]

anyone lol

[Captv2k]

I'm having the same problem as you are. I replaced the head gasket and valves. It did not smoke the next day I turned it on. But then a day later I have the same problem. I was thinking that maybe I did not torque the bolts with the right specs. I did check the cylinders and they appear fine. Did you finally get your car going. Did you find the problem. Please if you did can you post it for me. Thank you.

[Jack Rot]

I believe im having the same exact problem with my 2002 p5, i have the white/blueish smoke, have a leak from above the oil pan, replaced the gasket in the oil pan so its no longer leaking from there, its leaking above it, i dont really know engine part names to well, but im sure its the same exact problem this dude is having, the car has 108k miles on it, im using 10-40w synthetic blend, should i use heavier? go full synthetic, as far as having the problem fixed, whats the best recommendation?


now also, my car has an AFC ( air fuel controller ) and i really dont even know how to set it properly, if it's setup properly or what, have had the car for about a month only.....it's an apexi neo AFC....if anyone is in south florida PLEASE get at me...thanks.

[Jack Rot]

.................anyone?

[Kurtanius21]

.................anyone?

leaking above it meaning the sides of the motor around the oil pan? If so, these could be your seals. The engine seals prevent the oil from seeping past the crankshaft. You need to be more specifiv with symptoms. You don't need to name parts specifically, just symptoms as clearly as possible.

[i12drivemyMP5]

There is a part in between the block & the pan that has gasket on both sides of it. You may have stopped the leaking by the pan but may still have leak where block meets that other piece above the pan. If it was crank seal it'd be oily on the front side of motor where belts are, if it was rrmain then you have oily chattering clutch eventually.

[Jack Rot]

leaking above it meaning the sides of the motor around the oil pan? If so, these could be your seals. The engine seals prevent the oil from seeping past the crankshaft. You need to be more specifiv with symptoms. You don't need to name parts specifically, just symptoms as clearly as possible.


yea its leaking on the part above the oil pan, towards the back and right side section i believe, so if i get the seals replaced would that solve my burning oil problem as well? because the oil level drops a bit every week, or is the burning oil something completely diffrent?

[Kurtanius21]

yea its leaking on the part above the oil pan, towards the back and right side section i believe, so if i get the seals replaced would that solve my burning oil problem as well? because the oil level drops a bit every week, or is the burning oil something completely diffrent?

As far as I know, replacing the seal would slow oil leaking, but a faulty seal doesn't lead to burning oil. Don't quote me on that. Burning oil is caused by at least one of these two things, as far as I know, faulty piston rings and worn valve guides. Here is a tip from Tom Monroe from his engine rebuilding book, Engine Builder's Handbook

"Don't Overlook checking the Positive Crankcase ventiliation (PCV) system. High pressure in the crankcase ventilation can cause an otherwise good seal to leak."

"Before condemning the rings, check the PCV system, particularly the valve. If you shake it, the vavle should rattle. Also, remove the breaker and place your hand over its opening with the engine running. You should feel a distinct suction. If that's ok, check for restrictions in the PCV lines."

I would follow Monroe's advice. Check the PCV system. A worn seal doesn't burn oil, but it could be the byproduct of a worn PCV from excess blowby. Additionally, an overtaxed PCV burns oil.

[georgecastaneda]

hey guys i hope yah doing good, i have a problem with my 2000 mazda protege 1.8L 5speeds, i just got a low millage used engine which runs great when i first start it in the cold mornings or after several hours parked, the car smokes white for like 5 second after that it just go away. is that bad or how can i find out what is the problem if that is a problem?.. please i need help and i will appreciate it thanks

[br289165]

White smoke is usually coolant entering the combustion chamber.Could be a head gasket.




hey guys i hope yah doing good, i have a problem with my 2000 mazda protege 1.8L 5speeds, i just got a low millage used engine which runs great when i first start it in the cold mornings or after several hours parked, the car smokes white for like 5 second after that it just go away. is that bad or how can i find out what is the problem if that is a problem?.. please i need help and i will appreciate it thanks

[mp3-79bronco]

nah thats just condensation in the exhaust....nothing to worry about

[br289165]

Right I shoulda read further, 5 seconds that's normal.



nah thats just condensation in the exhaust....nothing to worry about

[georgecastaneda]

Ok. Anyway I have warranty ima take it to the mechanic. Another thing that I just found was a very small oil leak coming out between the engine and the transmission. which gasket besides the one in the oil Pam do u think it could be?. I really don't wanna screwed over from mechanics. Thank u

[br289165]

Take a look at this bud;
http://www.floptical.net/mazda/service_web/05-15B.PDF




Ok. Anyway I have warranty ima take it to the mechanic. Another thing that I just found was a very small oil leak coming out between the engine and the transmission. which gasket besides the one in the oil Pam do u think it could be?. I really don't wanna screwed over from mechanics. Thank u

[georgecastaneda]

that engine was sitting in the warehouse i dont know for how long, it's using 5W30 synthetic blend oil, should i swicht it to a full synthetic? i live in a very cold area our weather now is aroud 15F to 34F degrees

[georgecastaneda]

should i swicht from synthetic blend to a full synthetic???? and find out if that could be the problem? the coolant is level is good which means is not getting in the combustion chamber. can u help me ? thanks

[br289165]

Doubt it's the problem.



should i swicht from synthetic blend to a full synthetic???? and find out if that could be the problem? the coolant is level is good which means is not getting in the combustion chamber. can u help me ? thanks

[georgecastaneda]

Somebody Told me when my car smokes the problem could be the valves seals. By Monday ima have my mechanic looking at it. If the problem is so bad they gonna replace the whole engine

[georgecastaneda]

i've driving the car and it just stop smoking, i've checking the oil level and it doesnt go down of normal, at least i have 1 year warranty on it.

[georgecastaneda]

is normar when u hear a ticking on these types of motors?

[br289165]

A little is ok, could be cam lobes on the shims, overhead cam motors are never real quiet.



is normar when u hear a ticking on these types of motors?

[georgecastaneda]

really? because i gotta get very close to this engine to hear that ticking, my old engine had it and when we opened up, we saw the piston used to hit the valves so bad lol, i think thats why i used to hear the ticking from like a block away from the car

[georgecastaneda]

why do that happens?

[br289165]

Not sure what your asking.It could be a lot of things, but normally as you originally asked they do make some normal ticking sounds.


really? because i gotta get very close to this engine to hear that ticking, my old engine had it and when we opened up, we saw the piston used to hit the valves so bad lol, i think thats why i used to hear the ticking from like a block away from the car

[mp3-79bronco]

the injectors firing make a ticking sound...

[Fatony]

I have a 2003 Protege 5 that is burning oil. It goes through about 2 quarts of oil in just under 2 weeks. Every time I start it in the morning or after about 6-8 hours of sitting it blows out smoke. We have replaced the PCV valve twice, put on a brand new head with new seals and everything, spark plugs are new, replaced the head gasket and checked the compression on the piston rings. Compression is good. We are stumped as to what else could be the problem. PLEASE HELP!

Here's some pictures of the motor and head before and after I installed the new head. Same smoking problem . . .

Old head looked like this on cyl 1 exhaust port
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/1116111303.jpg

Exhaust manifold and gasket was soaked with oil on cyl 1
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/1116111302.jpg

I hope the pictures help show what the problem is. I'm about to call if quits and go for a new motor but I don't want to.

At this point anything could be possible. My thoughts are:
1) Possible the seals/guides are bad again in the new head (but not likely. I grabbed the valve with pliers through the exhaust port and I didn't feel any play)
2) there is a small crack in the oil galley from the block to the head leaking oil into the cylinder (thus causing the same problem regardless of old or new head)
3) the oil ring on the piston is bad (even though compression is ~200PSI in all cylinders)

When I bought this car it didn't seem to smoke at all for the first week or two, until I changed the oil and filter in it myself (because I figured it should be done not knowing last time it was changed)

Used a fram filter and 4 quarts syn blend valvoline 5w-30.

I noticed that it did have a genuine Mazda parts filter on it ( which shows the owner took good care of it and the carfax showed it went to the dealership every 3k miles for a oil change)

Right after the oil change it started smoking. We noticed it in the morning after it's sat overnight, or if the car has sat for 6-8 hours or longer. But if it's driven and then only sat for 1-4 hours it starts right up and it won't smoke.

It hesitates real bad between 2-5k rpms, almost no power. It feels as if I'm towing a 3,000lb trailer behind me. I have to floor it to get me and 3 passengers up to speed while merging on the freeway, and it takes about 12-15 seconds to get up to 65.

This is the same problem that

Carbon Deposits on piston heads
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4529.jpg

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4530.jpg

Cleaned deposits and wiped down cylinder walls with brake clean
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4541.jpg


Old head looked like this . . .
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4534.jpg

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4537.jpg

New head next to old
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4569.jpg

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4572.jpg

New head exhaust ports
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4583.jpg


All new gaskets
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4614.jpg


AND AFTER DRIVING WITH THE NEW HEAD for 1,000 Miles, THIS IS WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE AGAIN!
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4691.jpg

Cylinder no 1 Exhaust Port and valves (note, small bit of oil dripping down from valve guide - are they supposed to do that a little?)
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4694.jpg



http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/trapisarda/2003%20Mazda%20Protege5/IMG_4707.jpg


I hope the pictures help show what the problem is. I'm about to call if quits and go for a new motor but I don't want to.

At this point anything could be possible. My thoughts are:
1) Possible the seals/guides are bad again in the new head (but not likely. I grabbed the valve with pliers through the exhaust port and I didn't feel any play)
2) there is a small crack in the oil galley from the block to the head leaking oil into the cylinder (thus causing the same problem regardless of old or new head)
3) the oil ring on the piston is bad (even though compression is ~200PSI in all cylinders)

When I bought this car it didn't seem to smoke at all for the first week or two, until I changed the oil and filter in it myself (because I figured it should be done not knowing last time it was changed)

Used a fram filter and 4 quarts syn blend valvoline 5w-30.

I noticed that it did have a genuine Mazda parts filter on it ( which shows the owner took good care of it and the carfax showed it went to the dealership every 3k miles for a oil change)

Right after the oil change it started smoking. We noticed it in the morning after it's sat overnight, or if the car has sat for 6-8 hours or longer. But if it's driven and then only sat for 1-4 hours it starts right up and it won't smoke.

It hesitates real bad between 2-5k rpms, almost no power. It feels as if I'm towing a 3,000lb trailer behind me. I have to floor it to get me and 3 passengers up to speed while merging on the freeway, and it takes about 12-15 seconds to get up to 65.

This is the same problem that BRIGHT ON3 originally posted on this topic, but it was 2 years ago.

[tweety2300]

Have you tried replacing rings?

[br289165]

How much was that head milled?

[POLARBEARsMP3]

how do u know if ur pcv is bad

[mp3-79bronco]

Probably rings