How-To: Mazdaspeed6 Replace Pads and Rotors and Install Stainless Steel Brake Lines

[MATT DAMOND]

How-To: Mazdaspeed6 Replace Pads and Rotors and Install Stainless Steel Brake Lines

To begin, I decided to completely upgrade my brake system, considering that my car will do some track time this summer. If you are planning on doing all that I did, make sure that you have plenty of time, brake jobs can be very time consuming. If this is your first brake job, all I have to say is good luck and I hope that you find this how-to helpful. I’m ASE certified in brakes, and I’ve done a lot of brake jobs on many types of cars. If you are having any troubles or have some questions, shoot me a pm, I’d be glad to help.

Difficulty for just pad and rotor replacement = 5
Difficulty for installing stainless steel brake lines = 4
Cost total = $500+
“O” Factor = 11

New parts!
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0320.jpg
Tools needed for just pad and rotor replacement + why?:

Jack + jack stands – lift car

21mm socket wrench/or impact gun – remove wheels

7mm hex head wrench – front caliper guide pins

17mm socket wrench – front caliper bracket

Needle nose pliers – front caliper retaining clip, depress rear caliper
pistons(the method I used)

C-clamp – depress front caliper pistons

14mm socket wrench – rear caliper guide pins, bracket, e-brake bracket

10mm brake wrench – rear caliper bleeder

9mm brake wrench – front caliper bleeder

Huge Phelps head screw driver – remove rotor screws. Note: If you can’t get these out, (and you most likely will not, I tried everything, including a torch) use a power drill + various size bits to drill out the rotor screws.

Recommended supplies needed for just pad and rotor replacement + why?:

Brake-clean – to clean all friction mating surfaces

Caliper guide pin lube – self explanatory

Brake fluid DOT3 or DOT4 – you will want to bleed the brakes

A friend – to help bleed the brakes(these are hard to find. If no friends exist, buy a brake bleeder thingy)

A bolt – to push rotor off hub(I don’t know the type, but one of the brake line bracket bolts will work)

Rubber hammer – to free rotor from hub

Gloves – this is a very dirty job

Tools needed for installing stainless steel brake lines + why?:

12mm socket wrench – remove bolts for the brake line brackets, remove the
bolt on the F+R calipers that the line attaches to

Needle nose pliers – remove brake line bracket retaining clips

10mm brake wrench – remove rubber line from hard line

17mm open end wrench – tighten the ss line onto the hard line

14mm socket wrench – tighten new bolts to attach the calipers to ss lines

Let’s get started! Pad and rotor replacement:
1. Jack up the car, find a good spot for the jack stands(I used the inner car frame), remove the wheels. Note: If you do not know how to support a car safely in the air, stop now and go to a mechanic.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0326.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0321.jpg
2. Locate and remove the 2 hexbolt guide pins on the rear of the front calipers, you will have to remove the dust caps to access these.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0360-1.jpg
3. Remove the metal spring clip thing.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0327-1.jpg
4. Remove the caliper. Once it is off the hub, you can depress the piston; use the old pad for a flat clamping surface.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0334.jpg
5. Remove the pads.
6. Clean the guide pin sleeves in the caliper with brake-clean and paper towels.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0335-1.jpg
7. Locate and remove the 2 caliper bracket bolts, and remove the bracket.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0337-1.jpg
8. Now here comes the fun part. In order to remove the rotor, these screws need to come out. "To remove the screws on the rotors, you need to use an impact driver" (Quote MX5RACER). If they do not come out easily, get the drill ready to drill out the screw heads. You really don’t have to replace these screws, the wheel hold the rotor on just fine. With the screws off, remove the rotor. If it won’t come off itself, use a bold in the threaded rotor hole, and screw it in until the rotor brakes free.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0339.jpg
9. With the rotor off, inspect and clean the rotor-hub-mating-surface of rust build-up.
10. Install new rotor
11. Install the caliper bracket, making sure the bolts are tight.
12. Place the outer pad on the bracket, and the inner pad into the caliper piston. Note with Hawk HPS pads I had to bend inward on the tabs to get the pad into the piston.(this is an example with the old pads)
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0376.jpg
13. Now place the caliper onto the bracket and line up the guide pin holes.
14. Clean the guide pins with brake-clean and paper towels.
15. Lube up the guide pins and insert them into the caliper sleeves. Once you have them pressed in, thread the pins into the bracket, and tighten them in. Do not over tighten! Put the dust caps back on.(this is an example with a socket)
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0371.jpg
16. Install the metal spring clip thing, front brakes are done!
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0368.jpg
17. Locate and remove this bolt that holds on the e-brake mechanism. Slide the e-brake
mechanism out of its bracket, and set it aside.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0344.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0345-1.jpg
18. Remove the 2 caliper guide pin bolts, and remove the caliper.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0343.jpg
19. Remove the pads, a flathead screwdriver can help with prying them from the retaining clips.
20. Locate and remove the caliper bracket bolts, and set the bracket aside
21. Remove the 2 rubber guide pin boots, clean the pins and lube them. Then insert them back into the caliper bracket.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0346-1.jpg
22. Remove/Install rotor same as steps 8, 9, 10.
23. Install the caliper bracket, tighten the bolts.
24. Place the new pads in the retaining clips on the caliper bracket.
25. Depress the caliper piston. In order to do this, you have to turn the piston. I used some pliers on the notches in the piston. Turn slowly, so that the piston dust boot does not bind up, gently with your fingers turn the boot back and forth to keep it from binding/ripping. Get it in enough so that it barely fits over the new pads/rotor, then loosen it ¼ turn. Make sure that the notches are vertical/horizontal with the orientation of the caliper, so that it will go on the little stub on the pad.
26. Bolt the caliper on. Do not over tighten!
27. Slide the e-brake mechanism into its bracket. Install the bolt that holds on the e-brake mechanism.
28. Bleed the brakes, make sure everything is on right, and then use brake-clean to clean all friction mating surfaces.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0372.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0373.jpg
29. Burnish in the pads. Hawk’s instructions are on the box. If you are using different pads do about four 50-30mph firm brake applications.
30. Celebrate, you are done!
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0374.jpg
Note: if you avoid the cleaning and lubrication of the guide pins as stated in steps 6, 14, 15, 21, you may be susceptible to un-even pad wear. If you avoid steps 28, 29 you could experience noisy brakes and glazed rotors.
Stainless Steel Brake Line Install:
1. Remove the front hard line from the factory rubber brake line, and remove the bracket bolt.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0329.jpg
2. Remove the bolt for the bracket that holds the line on.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0331.jpg
3. Remove the factory line, bolt, and washers from the front caliper, keeping note of the way/path the line travels.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/line.jpg
4. Install the ss line with the provided bolt and washers onto the caliper in the same path as the factory line.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0360.jpg
5. Route the ss line to the hard line, in a similar way as the factory rubber line.
6. Bolt up the ss line to the hard line.
7. Bolt the brackets on.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0351-1.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0369.jpg
8. For the rears, remove the hard line from the factory rubber brake line. Then remove the metal clip.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0347.jpg
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0349.jpg
9. Remove the factory line, bolt, and washers from the rear caliper, keeping note of the way/path the line travels.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/liner.jpg
10. Install the ss line with the provided bolt and washers onto the caliper in the same path as the factory line.
11. With the ss line in, insert it into the bracket and insert the clip. The bracket has a built-in bolt configuration, so make sure that the new line matches up with that. Bolt up the ss line to the hard line.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0370.jpg
12. Bleed the brakes, and make sure everything is on right and tight. We don’t want leaks.
13. Celebrate, you are done!
Note: I installed the ss lines with the calipers removed. You should be able to do this with the calipers on. I also used the rubber caps on the bleeder screws to cap off the hard lines, once the factory rubber lines were removed.
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w173/pmand968/100_0375.jpg
What's left now is to go for a drive. (drive) Have fun!
Sorry for no how-to on painting the brakes, there are plenty of them out there.

[MATT DAMOND]

additional info

[amilliems6]

did u paint your break pads or are those new?

by the way great post

[MATT DAMOND]

did u paint your break pads or are those new?

by the way great post

Thanks, the pads are new, you should never paint the pads. I painted the calipers and the caliper brackets.

[jsehlms]

Great write-up.

Thanks.

Also, where did you get the SS lines? Are they the same as the Mazda 6 ones? I've only found the technifit ones for the speed.

Jason

[MATT DAMOND]

Great write-up.

Thanks.

Also, where did you get the SS lines? Are they the same as the Mazda 6 ones? I've only found the technifit ones for the speed.

Jason

The lines I got were the techna fit ones, I really wish there were more options for our cars. I don't know if they are the same as the regular 6, but I doubt it. The 6 has different calipers than the MS6.
As to where I got them from, you can pretty much get them from most of the performance upgrade web sites. I bought mine from **********.

[wannabe]

good write up :)

side question since you are certified, my rear brakes are squeaking during the last 5 mph of braking, and the first 5 mph of acceleration. i assume i just need to lube the pins, right?

[MATT DAMOND]

good write up :)

side question since you are certified, my rear brakes are squeaking during the last 5 mph of braking, and the first 5 mph of acceleration. i assume i just need to lube the pins, right?

That could be the case. I've never worked with this type of rear caliper design, however it does seem simple enough to number down the possible causes of the squeaking. Here are the most likely culprits:
1.Since the parking brake is incorporated into the calipers and I don't believe that they are self adjusting, you could try taking the caliper off and manually adjusting the piston and refitting it like I described in step 25.
2.If your pads don't have beveled edges, you could bevel them on a disc/belt sander. This is a trick I've always used to get rid of noise. The Hawks I got came pre-beveled, so less work for me. :) I'll try to get a pic up soon of what this looks like. Without the bevels, odd vibrations happen and you can get noise.
3.If the pads have overheated or were not burnished in, you can try sanding off a very thin layer of pad material, like <1mm, and taking a hand held disc sander and putting a non-directional swirl finish on the rotors. Clean all the friction surfaces with brake clean, then burnish in the pads.
4.If the pads don't have shims, it could cause bad vibes.
5.Lube the guide pins
Hope this helps, my car was having the same problem as yours, until I did all this. If you're still rocking the factory pads, beveling the edges should do the trick.

[wannabe]

thanks for the tips, i'll give it a shot :)

[MX5RACER]

To remove the screws on the rotors, you need to use an impact driver, like this one.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947641000P?vName=Tools&cName=Mechanics+Tools&sName=Automotive+Specialty+Tools#desc

With this tool, you can get the screws out no problem. These types of screws are very common in Hondas.

[MATT DAMOND]

To remove the screws on the rotors, you need to use an impact driver, like this one.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947641000P?vName=Tools&cName=Mechanics+Tools&sName=Automotive+Specialty+Tools#desc

With this tool, you can get the screws out no problem. These types of screws are very common in Hondas.

Thanks MX5RACER, I should have put that up there instead of using screwdrivers and such. I'll edit it in a bit. I don't have an impact, but I tried a drill, and broke 3 bits. Someone pointed out that the screws are so hard to break free, because of the large surface area on the back of the head. Both my 944's have these screws too, and oddly for 20+ year old cars they come off with no problem.

[BoostedSpd6]

what does chicago put on their roads in the winter.. salt ate ur sh*t up.. but nice write up ill definetly look back to this when i do my brakes at some point.

[elieleb1303]

nice write up, will hopefully be using this next week.
what kinda rotors did u get? i cant tell from the box, but are those the stockers?

[MATT DAMOND]

nice write up, will hopefully be using this next week.
what kinda rotors did u get? i cant tell from the box, but are those the stockers?

I got some painted, plain surface stoptech/centric's, the box says centric on it. I believe they are partners with stoptech.
I was going to do slotted, buy the prices seemed a bit high for me. Maybe next time.

[MATT DAMOND]

what does chicago put on their roads in the winter.. salt ate ur sh*t up.. but nice write up ill definetly look back to this when i do my brakes at some point.

I should've washed the car, I drove on a very muddy parking lot road, a few days before I did all this. Most of the crap is dried up mud. Damn new construction + rain!
Anyway winters here are horrible! The car is originally from Michigan, so it has been well acquainted with salt. (sad2)

[SilverSquish]

Hey man great write-up, thanks! How often do you recommend replacing pads and rotors?

[vrwm]

It all depends on how you drive. Pad and rotors should be changed when they are out of spec. Rotors can be resurfaced to a minimum machining spec , and pads changed when they are low.

[Xmax]

Great write-up. But I do suggest before placing on the new rotor onto the hub, put some anti-seize lubricate between the rotor and the hub to prevent the rotor and hub seizing together through rust and the high temps the rotor will endure. In case you don't know what lubricant I'm talking about, its the same stuff you put on your spark plugs. Kinda of a grayish metallic color. This stuff makes it easier to remove the rotor when its time to work on the brakes again.

[tunersteve]

I should've washed the car, I drove on a very muddy parking lot road, a few days before I did all this. Most of the crap is dried up mud. Damn new construction + rain!
Anyway winters here are horrible! The car is originally from Michigan, so it has been well acquainted with salt. (sad2)

Where about in MI did you pick that car up?

[wannabe]

one more question, what rotors did you buy? i'm not seeing anything available for less than $70 ea, which sounds ridiculous to me....

[elieleb1303]

wannabe he told me he got painted centric/stoptech rotors. they do look nice. i found the stock rotors for either 75 or 92, i forget the price. one was for the pads, the other for the rotors. if u found anythin cheaper for the stockers, let me know

[MATT DAMOND]

Yep, I bought centric/stoptech painted, plain faced rotors, from SU for around $240 for a whole set. You might want to give http://www.raceshopper.com/ a call, I got my pads from there, and I think they had good prices on rotors.

[wannabe]

yeah...i should have read. completely missed that.

why the hell are the fronts SOO much more than the rears?

the stoptechs you got are $100 for the rears and $220 for the fronts??

[elieleb1303]

theyre different sizes, arent they?

[redspeed6]

vented and non vented. bigger up front, smaller in rear

[MATT DAMOND]

yeah...i should have read. completely missed that.

why the hell are the fronts SOO much more than the rears?

the stoptechs you got are $100 for the rears and $220 for the fronts??

If you get them both it's only $249, the link: [unauthorized vendor]



The rotor's are so expensive because of our car's low production numbers, that and the fronts are going to be more for being bigger+vented, like redspeed6 said.

Tunersteeve, I bought the car in IL, but I'll check in my owner's manual, there's some business cards from the dealership the car was originally sold.

[wannabe]

i ordered the rear rotors (stoptechs) and pads (rotora H3 ceramics) from therpmstore for $160 shipped. i guess thats not THAT bad...but i'm gonna wait on the fronts a bit longer.

the rears are where my problems are.

[Afroman]

Quick Brake Question:

How do you bleed the brakes with a car that has ABS?

I have heard a few different things that the its hard to do because of the valves in the ABS solenoid pack. Basically air could get caught in there and without the right tools to open those valves you could damage the system.

[TXspeed6]

Bump. I don't want to pay $90 to have someone bleed the brake lines.
Also, what fluid? Is some better than others or are the all the same?

[MATT DAMOND]

You bleed the brakes the same as you would any other car.
Air would only get trapped in the ABS junk if 1. you opened the lines at the ABS mechanism, or 2. while bleeding the brakes you didn't keep the reservoir full with fluid, causing air to possibly get trapped in the MC and the ABS stuff.
As for what fluid to run, I'd recommend something DOT3 or DOT4. 4 has a higher boiling point than 3, and 4 would be better for sprinted driving/track days. I just have some prestone DOT4 fluid in for now, but I'll switch to ATE Super Blue DOT4 before I hit the track.

[TXspeed6]

Thanks for the reply matt.

[Xmax]

I just picked some rotors for the rear of my MS6 from Carquest, got them for $43 a piece which is a heck of a deal.

[nickows]

Thanks very much for providing this comprehensive and easy to follow 'How To'. It made my rotor and pad replacement alot quicker.