View Full Version : Engine issues
novacircuit
03-12-2009, 12:52 AM
***Final Update***
Just an FYI for anyone that has similar issues in the future and looking at this thread. The tech at the dealership had called and told me he replaced the fuel pump and purge solenoid valve... so I assume these parts were causing the issue. Turns out, as soon as I turn on my car to leave the lot it stalls at idle twice... I talk to a different tech that is more up to date on the speed3s and he tells me to bring it back. I bring it back and he replaces the front O2 sensor (as I originally assumed.....) and cleaned up the spark plugs, which was interesting because I had just replaced them. Maybe dirty from running so lean? But anyways just wanted anyone looking to know these were the symptoms I got and the issue with the car.
**Update**
So since my car was still considered under warranty with it only being an 08 and only 12000 miles i took it to the dealer service dept to see if they'd honor the warranty with the intake and bov on. Turns out they are pretty oblivious. They said they couldn't get in the ecu (AP), since i forgot to unmarry like an idiot, and i came up and uninstalled it at the service dept.. anyways they found out it was the engine pump failing... so how does an engine pump fail from just an intake??? ridiculous... and as for the ap i had the issues with the pump before i installed ap so the ap didn't cause the fuel pump issue. So my question, should the new pump be pretty solid for a few more mods or are new internals essential? i was planning on getting them pretty soon anyways but just seeing what everyone else says.
thanks
**EDIT** UPDATE**
Okay so I'm still having some pretty serious issues. I fixed the line and there are NO leaks. I pressure tested and everything is clamped up tight. When i cold start my car will stall and idle extremely rough for the first startup, but every other startup is fine if the car is still warm and after i drive it for even the smallest distance the idle is fine. My car putters out in low rpms at times (at least once each drive) under 3000rpms. OBDII scanned and got these coded:
p2177
p2187
pending p2177
pending p2187
pending p2097
pending p2195
the first two are engine bay running lean and lean at idle and the last two are front oxygen sensor issues; however, since they're only pending i feel like the first two codes are causing errors with the oxygen sensors every now and then.
Like I said before I only have the cobb sri. Could the sri be throwing off the sensor and screwing with the afr?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
[Old First Post]
I recently installed the cobb sri and a greddy type s (recirc of course) on the speed3. At first there were no issues but i realized later i forgot to modify the hood or rotate the bov to fit under the plastic hood molding and now theres a hole in the turbo tubing to the bov. I tape this up about every other day (doesn't hold long...) until my silicon tubes come in. Now, a couple days after the installs i get a check engine light (around the same time the hole was created) and at startup at idle the car will putter out and shut off. This only happens right after startup and after i drive and am at idle at a light or something there are no issues. Also, every time I drive the car now i get fuel cutoff at least once. Any help or suggestions? thanks.
AutoEuphoria
03-12-2009, 07:27 AM
Don't drive it hard until it's fixed. What do you mean the "turbo tubing"? Are you talking about a vacuum line? Just go to the parts store and buy some...it's like $5. I've also read the Greddy BOV is not good with the MS3 even recirculated, but I could be wrong on that so don't quote me.
clos561
03-12-2009, 10:01 AM
home depot sells tubing by the foot
novacircuit
03-12-2009, 01:31 PM
well like i said i ordered some silicon tubing. and yeah the vacuum tubing. but are you guys saying thats probably whats throwing the cel?
You have a hole in your vacuum tubing...what makes you think that isn't throwing the cel and causing your stalling problem?
AutoEuphoria
03-12-2009, 02:22 PM
I will say it again...go to the auto parts store and buy $5 worth of vacuum line and fix it the right way. You have a vacuum leak...yes, that will cause your engine to run like crap. It's also bringing unfiltered air into the engine, which also is not good.
novacircuit
03-12-2009, 04:55 PM
You have a hole in your vacuum tubing...what makes you think that isn't throwing the cel and causing your stalling problem?
I sealed it though and its not blowing through the seal so it shouldn't be leaking and it still happens.
AutoEuphoria
03-12-2009, 10:53 PM
You sealed it with TAPE. Come on...if you're going to be like this we're just not going to help you anymore. Of course you don't feel it blowing through the line...it's a VACUUM line. It's still a leak.
Also, switch back to the stock BPV...I've heard people having very little success with the Greddy BOV on this car.
novacircuit
03-13-2009, 03:06 AM
You sealed it with TAPE. Come on...if you're going to be like this we're just not going to help you anymore. Of course you don't feel it blowing through the line...it's a VACUUM line. It's still a leak.
Also, switch back to the stock BPV...I've heard people having very little success with the Greddy BOV on this car.
Great that's what i was looking for thanks a lot. Just curious, though... why have people had little success with that specific bov? Also, i wasn't being stubborn i was just trying to get my facts straight. No need to get upset.
RC08MS3
03-13-2009, 06:47 AM
i run a Greddy RS and its fine, type s is a scaled down version but should be ok.
AutoEuphoria
03-13-2009, 07:26 AM
I'd listen to someone who is running one over myself on that subject...like I said, that's only what I remember reading, but it was a while ago.
novacircuit
03-13-2009, 04:16 PM
Okay so I replaced the vacuum line and I'm still having the same issues and throwing a lean engine code. It stalls at start up if i don't drive it or rev it a little. It does take about 10 seconds before it actually putters out.
It seems like its fuel cutting but why would it fuel cut only at startup? Also, sometimes when I drive it seems to hit fuel cut. I'll cruise at a lower rpm and then when i try to accelerate a little it will just bog down and not go as if it's choking for fuel. This only happens rarely when I drive but it's still an issue.
Thanks
RC08MS3
03-13-2009, 04:29 PM
do you have a boost gauge? if not you NEED one, this would help figure out the issue right away if you did.
and did you try resetting the computer after your new line? im not sure if thatd do much but just to see if the computer needs a refresh on the map.
did you buy a real greddy bov or a copy? try the stock bpv and see if it clears it up, autoeuphoria might be right about it not running right on some cars, but then again you dont have the same as i so the comparison isnt accurate.
AutoEuphoria
03-13-2009, 04:53 PM
Yup, put the stock BPV back on. Also check to make sure the MAF sensor is installed correctly in the SRI, and that there are no leaks or bad connections there.
MSMS3
03-13-2009, 05:36 PM
If the stock BPV fixes the problem - LEAVE IT ON. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. If it's not leaking, a BOV, even in recirc mode gives no gain only more noise.
CHIEFSMS3
03-13-2009, 05:38 PM
Have you adjusted the BOV/BPV?
If there is not enough spring pressure it will cause the engine to stall.
You could try tightening the spring until the engine idles properly.
johns
03-13-2009, 06:16 PM
reset battery and let us know if the cel still exists
novacircuit
03-13-2009, 08:23 PM
do you have a boost gauge? if not you NEED one, this would help figure out the issue right away if you did.
and did you try resetting the computer after your new line? im not sure if thatd do much but just to see if the computer needs a refresh on the map.
did you buy a real greddy bov or a copy? try the stock bpv and see if it clears it up, autoeuphoria might be right about it not running right on some cars, but then again you dont have the same as i so the comparison isnt accurate.
im going to reset now and it's a real greddy. and when you mean refresh on the map you mean stock map right?
i adjusted the bov (tighter) and unhooked the negative power supply and am going to check it in 30 minutes or an hour to see how it runs. hopefully that will solve the problem. if not i think tomorrow i'm going up my buddies to run a pressure test and see if there are any leaks and then if there aren't i'll reinstall the oem bov and check that.... i'll repost when i go check it out in a bit.
novacircuit
03-14-2009, 12:31 PM
the ecu reset and bov tighten did nothing.... going to pressure test it today and check all the fittings to make sure they're tight and try reinstalling the old bov.
tru-boost
03-15-2009, 10:38 PM
I had a greddy type s. It sucked and i took it off. Then i ran an HKS cuz i got it free from by cousin who sold his evo. That sucked almost as bad.
Anyways its your line dude. Tape aint gonna fix it.
novacircuit
03-17-2009, 05:41 PM
Okay so I'm still having some pretty serious issues. I fixed the line and there are NO leaks. I pressure tested and everything is clamped up tight. When i cold start my car will stall and idle extremely rough for the first startup, but every other startup is fine if the car is still warm and after i drive it for even the smallest distance the idle is fine. My car putters out in low rpms at times (at least once each drive) under 3000rpms. OBDII scanned and got these coded:
p2177
p2187
pending p2177
pending p2187
pending p2097
pending p2195
the first two are engine bay running lean and lean at idle and the last two are front oxygen sensor issues; however, since they're only pending i feel like the first two codes are causing errors with the oxygen sensors every now and then.
Like I said before I only have the cobb sri. Could the sri be throwing off the sensor and screwing with the afr?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
novacircuit
03-23-2009, 05:37 PM
bump for help anyone?
johns
03-23-2009, 06:44 PM
there are like a million vacuum hoses in this car. did you go over all of them?
running lean means you're sucking in air. do you have a way to monitor afr?
did you tighten ic tubes or couplers? tighten intake couplers? tighten your inlet? make sure the recirc hose is actually tight.
MSMS3
03-23-2009, 07:01 PM
Try putting your stock BPV back on and see if things settle down. If so, your BOV is either defective or not correctly installed or adjusted.
RC08MS3
03-23-2009, 07:05 PM
Something still isnt right, you sure the BPV is adjusted right? check all this^^^ also. you might wanna just start from scratch. Take everything you installed off, look around make sure everything is ok, and reinstall, but being careful this time. You might find something right in front of you that your missing. reset battery again, and test.
The issue your having sounds exactly like when i forgot to hook up my recirc hose the other night. Cut on, run for a sec n shut off, unless i held the gas for it to idle for a second and level out, but as soon as i gas it gas to move it would choke and almost die out.
novacircuit
03-24-2009, 04:31 PM
Something still isnt right, you sure the BPV is adjusted right? check all this^^^ also. you might wanna just start from scratch. Take everything you installed off, look around make sure everything is ok, and reinstall, but being careful this time. You might find something right in front of you that your missing. reset battery again, and test.
The issue your having sounds exactly like when i forgot to hook up my recirc hose the other night. Cut on, run for a sec n shut off, unless i held the gas for it to idle for a second and level out, but as soon as i gas it gas to move it would choke and almost die out.
hmm. After doing some more research, running over the codes, and checking stats on AP I think I might have a bad front O2 sensor. Do these symptoms seem indicative of a bad sensor? When i check real time AFR on AP there is no update. Every now and then it'll start logging and it'll stick around 14-15 (good) but only rarely.
RC08MS3
03-24-2009, 06:35 PM
......... that would be one hell of a coincidence bro, did you check the wiring for it? if you crawl under the car the plugs are on the drivers side of the bottom portion of the motor, you could make sure the plugs are in all the way. one is grey and one is black, but splits into two different plugs. The two different plugs is your primary. You might already no this but if not now you know
someone else might wanna chime in on the 02 sensor part, i havent had an issue with mine. i know how to take em out and were they are but as for what codes they throw i have no clue
RC08MS3
03-24-2009, 06:49 PM
hey what year is your car? you might wanna check this out:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123690679&highlight=p2177&page=2
novacircuit
03-30-2009, 05:02 PM
took my car to the dealership and hot it checked. Look at OP for update
MSMS3
03-30-2009, 05:54 PM
I feel like I'm running in circles going back to the OP and now back here to post a reply, but I understand the reason for the edit.
Since the problem was the fuel pump, they replaced it under warranty? See if they'll give you the old one They probably will just throw it away.
You could use it as a core for upgrading the internals. They don't need to know why you want it!
It's cool they didn't hassle you on the mods, especially the AP. I guess they did not.
Glad you found the fix. With a little luck you can drive with your new fuel pump while having the old one rebuilt for high output.
RC08MS3
03-30-2009, 06:01 PM
bro, those two parts caused the pump to fail? that wasent something i thought of lol, i would've never seen that coming. i just installed my internal kit (for the second time due to the recall) and it is probably a decent investment. glad you found the fix though, seemed like we had you running in circles
***Final Update***
So since my car was still considered under warranty with it only being an 08 and only 12000 miles i took it to the dealer service dept to see if they'd honor the warranty with the intake and bov on. Turns out they are pretty oblivious. They said they couldn't get in the ecu (AP), since i forgot to unmarry like an idiot, and i came up and uninstalled it at the service dept.. anyways they found out it was the engine pump failing... so how does an engine pump fail from just an intake??? ridiculous... and as for the ap i had the issues with the pump before i installed ap so the ap didn't cause the fuel pump issue. So my question, should the new pump be pretty solid for a few more mods or are new internals essential? i was planning on getting them pretty soon anyways but just seeing what everyone else says.
thanks
**EDIT** UPDATE**
Okay so I'm still having some pretty serious issues. I fixed the line and there are NO leaks. I pressure tested and everything is clamped up tight. When i cold start my car will stall and idle extremely rough for the first startup, but every other startup is fine if the car is still warm and after i drive it for even the smallest distance the idle is fine. My car putters out in low rpms at times (at least once each drive) under 3000rpms. OBDII scanned and got these coded:
p2177
p2187
pending p2177
pending p2187
pending p2097
pending p2195
the first two are engine bay running lean and lean at idle and the last two are front oxygen sensor issues; however, since they're only pending i feel like the first two codes are causing errors with the oxygen sensors every now and then.
Like I said before I only have the cobb sri. Could the sri be throwing off the sensor and screwing with the afr?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
[Old First Post]
I recently installed the cobb sri and a greddy type s (recirc of course) on the speed3. At first there were no issues but i realized later i forgot to modify the hood or rotate the bov to fit under the plastic hood molding and now theres a hole in the turbo tubing to the bov. I tape this up about every other day (doesn't hold long...) until my silicon tubes come in. Now, a couple days after the installs i get a check engine light (around the same time the hole was created) and at startup at idle the car will putter out and shut off. This only happens right after startup and after i drive and am at idle at a light or something there are no issues. Also, every time I drive the car now i get fuel cutoff at least once. Any help or suggestions? thanks.
Stock internals have generally been estimated to be good up to 350 hp (at the wheels I think, its been a while since I have read up on it). Its pretty common info if you search for it. but you should be fine for an intake and a few more mods.
novacircuit
04-13-2009, 07:44 PM
Just an FYI for anyone that has similar issues in the future and looking at this thread. The tech at the dealership had called and told me he replaced the fuel pump and purge solenoid valve... so I assume these parts were causing the issue. Turns out, as soon as I turn on my car to leave the lot it stalls at idle twice... I talk to a different tech that is more up to date on the speed3s and he tells me to bring it back. I bring it back and he replaces the front O2 sensor (as I originally assumed.....) and cleaned up the spark plugs, which was interesting because I had just replaced them. Maybe dirty from running so lean? But anyways just wanted anyone looking to know these were the symptoms I got and the issue with the car.
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