anyone running rear camber links with coilovers?

[madvillian]

Right now im running -3.5* of camber in the rear (just had an alignment) so my question is will the adjusting ability of the SPC's be enough to completely correct this? anyone know from experience? im currently dropped well over two inches in the rear on my coils, will supply some pictures shortly.

[Wastegate13]

I'll let you know next week. My SPC arms should be here Wednesday along with my new wheels. It will probably be Monday at least before I can get time to work on the car.

[CnoTataymo]

Really, -3.5? I've got BC's too. How much thread do you have left on the coils?

[madvillian]

they're all of the way down, in fact i wish theyd go lower!

[CnoTataymo]

Haha, damn! Yeah, the BC's don't lower the car that much. Why not take off the bottom ring? You could probably get another 1/8-1/4" lower.

[madvillian]

Haha, damn! Yeah, the BC's don't lower the car that much. Why not take off the bottom ring? You could probably get another 1/8-1/4" lower.

haha way ahead of you, did that too.



oh, and thanks wastegate!

[bykeryder4life]

I have spc adjustable camber links and my BC's are slammed in the rear. The SPC adjustables have plenty of thread on them to adjust camber either way. I have my car at -1.75 f/r right now. I highly recommend you get them- not other camber kits that are non adjustable. wow how do your tires like -3.5 camber that sucks man dont go more than -2, your car will perform better with a proper alignment too

[madvillian]

haha the tires dont like it too much, thats why i want to correct it now. what im confused on is how do you know where to adjust the links to prior to installing them, or can you do it while theyre installed? i've heard from some that the install is easy, and some that its a pain in the ass, which is it?

[bykeryder4life]

the passenger side is a pain because the space is small and so you can only turn the bolt a little at a time and it's long so its time consuming. theres a bracket right in front of the bolt you gotta bend a little so the bolt has clearance room to come out. This is the side that connects to the car not the hub. For my spc's I put the stock camber links under them and lined the holes up so I knew the spc and stock ones were even lengths. Then I gave the spc's a few turns out longer to get rid of some negative camber for starters. To align them you unbolt the side that bolts to the hub/brake assembly( it's an easy access 17mm both sides) and screw/unscrew them to add or take camber away then bolt it back to the hub and put the wheel on again and check alignment. It is time consuming and requires an aligment shop that will do it for you, my shop had old school gauges so they could keep the wheels off and keep adjusting the camber links while checking the alignment

[CnoTataymo]

haha way ahead of you, did that too.

Haha, damn. Your rear must be pretty damn low then. Post some close of pictures please.

[bykeryder4life]

no the BC's wont slam the rears down even if you take a ring out... no tucking tires

[madvillian]

Haha, damn. Your rear must be pretty damn low then. Post some close of pictures please.

ive got some 25mm spacers im throwing on in a day or two, so i will post pictures up of those, so you'll see the car then.


the passenger side is a pain because the space is small and so you can only turn the bolt a little at a time and it's long so its time consuming. theres a bracket right in front of the bolt you gotta bend a little so the bolt has clearance room to come out. This is the side that connects to the car not the hub. For my spc's I put the stock camber links under them and lined the holes up so I knew the spc and stock ones were even lengths. Then I gave the spc's a few turns out longer to get rid of some negative camber for starters. To align them you unbolt the side that bolts to the hub/brake assembly( it's an easy access 17mm both sides) and screw/unscrew them to add or take camber away then bolt it back to the hub and put the wheel on again and check alignment. It is time consuming and requires an aligment shop that will do it for you, my shop had old school gauges so they could keep the wheels off and keep adjusting the camber links while checking the alignment


you're making me nervous, haha sounds like a lot of work.. i guess its worth it because of the tire wear..

[fostersafb]

haha way ahead of you, did that too.

Did you take out just the upper ring from the rears? I've been waiting for my springs to settle before getting an alignment too. I'm worried that the rear camber is going to be too much and I'll have to end up getting the SPC's as well.

So you ended up with -3.5* of camber in the rear? I've guessed that mine is sitting around -2.5* to -3*.

Anybody know what a good "performance" alignment for the MS3 would be? I don't know about you madvillian but I don't mind running an aggressive alignment, as long as it doesn't end up burning through the inside of the tires too quickly.

[bykeryder4life]

dont go over -2* of camber, and get the toe set to be neutral and your car will handle pretty good and drive straight without killing your tires. On my car at -1.75 the tire wear is negligible and it feels 100% better than the stock alignment at low and high speeds.

[Wastegate13]

My rear arms just came in. Quick question for all you guys, is your rear camber even from side to side? My ride height is even all side to side but my driver side rear has more negative camber than the passenger.

[bykeryder4life]

you're making me nervous, haha sounds like a lot of work.. i guess its worth it because of the tire wear..

its not bad, the initial install is kinda a pain with how tight it is on the passenger side, but the ends that you adjust connect to the hub and are easy to get at so adjustments are made fast. It just takes 2 or 3 adjustments to get it right. Hell, I got lucky on one side and it was already at -1.75 so I only needed to do the other side.

[madvillian]

its not bad, the initial install is kinda a pain with how tight it is on the passenger side, but the ends that you adjust connect to the hub and are easy to get at so adjustments are made fast. It just takes 2 or 3 adjustments to get it right. Hell, I got lucky on one side and it was already at -1.75 so I only needed to do the other side.

yeah im at a straight -3.5 on both sides, i just had my alignment done. i really dont have money to spend right now, i think im just going to wait for a bit, the tires im running now (not the 245's) are toast anyways.



Did you take out just the upper ring from the rears? I've been waiting for my springs to settle before getting an alignment too. I'm worried that the rear camber is going to be too much and I'll have to end up getting the SPC's as well.

So you ended up with -3.5* of camber in the rear? I've guessed that mine is sitting around -2.5* to -3*.

Anybody know what a good "performance" alignment for the MS3 would be? I don't know about you madvillian but I don't mind running an aggressive alignment, as long as it doesn't end up burning through the inside of the tires too quickly.

yeah i took out the bottom ring i guess, depending on how you look at it. i took out the locking ring, the ring that is at the very bottom where that plastic piece rests on it to mount the spring is the one i left there, obviously. i wish it would go lower (flame)

[Aaron23]

Hey I just ordered sportlines. Where can I get the SPC camber arms? How much do they run?

[fostersafb]

Hey I just ordered sportlines. Where can I get the SPC camber arms? How much do they run?

Apparently SPC just raised the price to something like $109 a piece. I spoke with Chris at SU yesterday. Maybe we could organize a small group buy to get a better price. (drinks) I'm ready to order a set as well.

[Aaron23]

I'm in if he can go lower than $174 for both, found on ebay for that much includes shipping.

[Wastegate13]

There is a GB going on the other forum. Got mine for 160 shipped, took about 5 days to get them in.

[Aaron23]

Which forum Wastegate?

[bykeryder4life]

Hey I just ordered sportlines. Where can I get the SPC camber arms? How much do they run?

with the eibach kit I dont think you will need them, get em if you want but I believe they are a similar drop to cobb so you are within spec.

[bykeryder4life]

when I ordered my BC's I got both SPC arms for about $100-buy one get one free with s tr ee tu ni t at the time

[madvillian]

no way, eibach sportlines are SUPER low, they dont make them for the mazdaspeed3, eibach pro kits are similar to cobbs. i had the sportlines on my mazda3 and i was at -2.8 or so in the rear.

[fostersafb]

when I ordered my BC's I got both SPC arms for about $100-buy one get one free with s tr ee tu ni t at the time

I was supposed to get that same deal from Import Image, $93 for the set along with the BC's but II couldn't get them after the fact. Bummer for me.

[fostersafb]

Which forum Wastegate?

I just found the GB Wastegate was talking about. The GB post said it expired long ago but the coupon code for the $160 shipped still works.

Just check the other mazda 3 forums out there..........(sssh)

[Wastegate13]

I just found the GB Wastegate was talking about. The GB post said it expired long ago but the coupon code for the $160 shipped still works.

Just check the other mazda 3 forums out there..........(sssh)


I think they extended it until March 17th or so. Its TH Motorsports. 800-959-0145

[Aaron23]

Thanks fellas you been alot of help. Whats that coupon code btw?

[Wastegate13]

Thanks fellas you been alot of help. Whats that coupon code btw?

I dunno the code but if you call they will give you that price over the phone.

[Aaron23]

Alright thanks Wastegate.

[fostersafb]

Thanks fellas you been alot of help. Whats that coupon code btw?

SPCmazda3

EDIT: Just ordered mine, $160 shipped!

[bykeryder4life]

no way, eibach sportlines are SUPER low, they dont make them for the mazdaspeed3, eibach pro kits are similar to cobbs. i had the sportlines on my mazda3 and i was at -2.8 or so in the rear.

oops sorry was thinking of the pro-kit I think? it's like .8"drop???

[madvillian]

meh, its a bit more, its better than the cobbs i think. builthatch has them:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123732500

i just ordered my camber links. aaand i installed my 25mm spacers, i will post pictures up tomorrow.

[Nliiitend1]

Did you take out just the upper ring from the rears? I've been waiting for my springs to settle before getting an alignment too. I'm worried that the rear camber is going to be too much and I'll have to end up getting the SPC's as well.

So you ended up with -3.5* of camber in the rear? I've guessed that mine is sitting around -2.5* to -3*.

Anybody know what a good "performance" alignment for the MS3 would be? I don't know about you madvillian but I don't mind running an aggressive alignment, as long as it doesn't end up burning through the inside of the tires too quickly.

This is what I would consider to be a great "performance" alignment:

-2.5 degrees front camber (pretty much impossible without aftermarket camber correction)
~1/16th-1/8th" TOTAL toe OUT in the front (closer to 1/16th for better tire wear, closer to 1/8th for more aggressive turn-in)

-1.5 degrees rear camber
ZERO TOTAL toe in the rear

That being said, if you're not using front camber correction I'd put the rear camber at no more negative than the front, and use the same toe settings as above.

[Wastegate13]

This is what I would consider to be a great "performance" alignment:

-2.5 degrees front camber (pretty much impossible without aftermarket camber correction)
~1/16th-1/8th" TOTAL toe OUT in the front (closer to 1/16th for better tire wear, closer to 1/8th for more aggressive turn-in)

-1.5 degrees rear camber
ZERO TOTAL toe in the rear

That being said, if you're not using front camber correction I'd put the rear camber at no more negative than the front, and use the same toe settings as above.

Except for the toe out this is almost exactly what I am running. I have slightly more camber in the rear because I had no adjustability.

[CnoTataymo]

This is what I would consider to be a great "performance" alignment:

-2.5 degrees front camber (pretty much impossible without aftermarket camber correction)
~1/16th-1/8th" TOTAL toe OUT in the front (closer to 1/16th for better tire wear, closer to 1/8th for more aggressive turn-in)

-1.5 degrees rear camber
ZERO TOTAL toe in the rear

That being said, if you're not using front camber correction I'd put the rear camber at no more negative than the front, and use the same toe settings as above.
So what's a good alignment spec for DD and some fun without a lot of tire wear?

[Aaron23]

Madvillan was your car lowered in the pics with the spacers on?

[madvillian]

yeah, its all of the way down in the rear and really low in the front. will take some in a bit!

[bykeryder4life]

i think anything over -2 camber is too much and your tires will be getting worn down fast if you actually drive the shit out of the car. Performance wise, ya it will feel real good at those settings said above. 1/8" toe seems too aggressive for DD that doesnt like buying tires alot i would go with the 1/16" toe if anything

[daonly1around]

yeah, its all of the way down in the rear and really low in the front. will take some in a bit!

wait, you added spacers to your already flush 18x9's?

[Nliiitend1]

i think anything over -2 camber is too much and your tires will be getting worn down fast if you actually drive the shit out of the car. Performance wise, ya it will feel real good at those settings said above. 1/8" toe seems too aggressive for DD that doesnt like buying tires alot i would go with the 1/16" toe if anything

Actually, if you "drive the shit out of your car" you're likely to see more even tire wear with that kind of camber. Less negative camber, and the more you scrub off the outside edges of the front tires first. Now if you do most of your driving on highways and in a straight line, you might see some accelerated inner wear, and I would suggest you run less aggressive front camber, but if you're like me and like to go to the track (excluding the 1/4 mile track), I think those numbers are great.

[madvillian]

wait, you added spacers to your already flush 18x9's?

hahahah no, that would not have worked. ive already sold the gold rims, im back on the stock wheels/tires. with all of the fender room i made when i pulled them out it looked even more lame with those little bicycle 215's on there, so i threw some 25mm spacers on and it looks much better.

[daonly1around]

going with different wheels now?

[madvillian]

nope, i just need the money. some bad shits going on at work, my incomes been cut hugely, and i need to sell anything i dont need haha. well, everything short of parting out my car, hopefully it wont come to that..

[daonly1around]

well if it does i'll take that ap...

[bykeryder4life]

Actually, if you "drive the shit out of your car" you're likely to see more even tire wear with that kind of camber. Less negative camber, and the more you scrub off the outside edges of the front tires first. Now if you do most of your driving on highways and in a straight line, you might see some accelerated inner wear, and I would suggest you run less aggressive front camber, but if you're like me and like to go to the track (excluding the 1/4 mile track), I think those numbers are great.

ya i totally agree with you, like i said performance wise ya it will feel/be real good....it's a great setup for a driver that tracks often. I was only referring to the DD who rips around town and whatnot.

[Boostin McFly]

I think I'll be picking up some BC Coilovers soon...what other items will I need for my suspension...I just want to get a rough ending cost rather than get them and be surprised with all these other items I have to buy. I'm guessin adj. rear camber links. Is that it? Thanks

[Wastegate13]

I think I'll be picking up some BC Coilovers soon...what other items will I need for my suspension...I just want to get a rough ending cost rather than get them and be surprised with all these other items I have to buy. I'm guessin adj. rear camber links. Is that it? Thanks

Depends on what your goals are.

[Boostin McFly]

I want to lower the car, make the suspension stiffer mess around on the streets and go on mountain roads every now and then. I dont plan on autocrossing or drag racing. would just the coilovers be effiecient?

[Wastegate13]

I want to lower the car, make the suspension stiffer mess around on the streets and go on mountain roads every now and then. I dont plan on autocrossing or drag racing. would just the coilovers be effiecient?

A rear sway should definitely be on your list too. Even after the improvement over stock with the BC's the car still felt different when the Cobb RSB went in. Never used a FSB so I can't comment. The rear camber links will depend on how low you want to go. I'm dropped 5/16" in the rear and my camber is within spec on both sides. It's not even side to side but within spec all the same. I plan on going a little lower if my new wheels will allow so I went ahead and picked up a set of SPC links. When my new wheels get here I will be throwing those in and aligning the car again.

[Boostin McFly]

I measured and I'm looking for 1.5in or so in the front and 1-1.25in in the rear, just enough to have a 1 finger gap or so on my stock rims/tires...

[Boostin McFly]

I measured and I'm looking for 1.5in or so in the front and 1-1.25in in the rear, just enough to have a 1 finger gap or so on my stock rims/tires...

Would the BCs be able to bring it down this low and would my car still be within factory camber specs?

What is the maximum drop for the front and rear to keep the camber under 2?