BC Coilover Setup: Compression/Rebound Settings, Ride Height Adjustment, Camber, Etc.

[fostersafb]

Ok, so I got the BC's installed today, now as long as I installed them correctly its time for all of the setup configurations.

I'm hoping to get a discussion going about some of the BC coilover specifics. I'm not sure how many of us are running them but considering their quality and performance vs. the price they should receive a little attention.The adjustable options that I think need some focus here on the forum are:

1. Front camber settings
2. Front and rear rebound/compression settings
3. Ride height adjustment
4. Spring Preload

For those that are running them, please chime in on how you have yours setup and any other configurations you have run with them. I'm just beginning the process so I cant offer much aside from what I came across today.

First, the instructions that come with the coilovers are a joke. They did not provide one bit of usefull info.

Secondly, I'm not sure if I installed something wrong, but the tab that holds the speed sensor in place that mounts to the end link tab on the strut housing sticks out about 1 1/2" from the strut housing itself. It was far enough to come in contact with the inner bead of the rims!

Third, I have read that the front struts come already with the correct preload, however they were both different thus adjustments had to be made.

Fourth, the rear setup needs its own detailed instructions. I just about put my head through the wall trying to figure it out. Along with the correct install orientation, the ride height adjustment needs some light shined on it. Unlike the front, the spring and strut are separate and both have their own height adjustment. I don't know if one rotation of the spring perch collar equals one rotation on the strut adjustment?

Lastly, related to the rear height adjustment; Is there a way to adjust the spring perch height without completely uninstalling the spring itself?

Anyways, most of what I did today was just a shot in the dark. Obviously I have a lot of questions that need answers. I will update this thread as I receive info from BC or anyone else. This is all in the hopes that anyone else who decides to take on the install and setup themselves will have an all inclusive resource to reference.

Thanks.

[CnoTataymo]

1) I run mine as close as possible to stock since I want pretty even camber wear.
2) 9 front/10 rear but recommended from SU and others are 12 front/15 rear
3) Fronts are easy just like any other setup but the rear, you'll have to unbolt the bottom of the shock, lower control arm and rear sway bar endlink and finally access the perch/spring.
4) ?

[fostersafb]

1) I run mine as close as possible to stock since I want pretty even camber wear.
2) 9 front/10 rear but recommended from SU and others are 12 front/15 rear
3) Fronts are easy just like any other setup but the rear, you'll have to unbolt the bottom of the shock, lower control arm and rear sway bar endlink and finally access the perch/spring.
4) ?

Thanks again. It looks to me like the rear shock can be adjusted without removing. If you loosen the lock nut, the whole shock tube will rotate and shorten or extend on the lower threaded rod. The springs though, that another story, RSB has to come off and then the lower perch can be lowered enough to remove the spring.

I'm going to play around with them again today and see what happens.

[CnoTataymo]

Yeah, if you got enough room for your tools to adjust the height of shock, you don't have to fully remove them. If you shorten them, it won't really do anything to lower your car. Removing the endlinks is the easiest way to access the spring when you want to lower them. As for negative camber, there is obviously going to be more camber then stock. Probably -2.5 at the most.

[fostersafb]

I'm kind of at a loss right now. I adjusted the springs down to the lowest setting (collars threaded all the way down) and then by hand turned the shock body all the way down to the lowest point. It stopped with about 2 inches of threaded rod remaining. With that the rear is still only just over an inch lower than stock???

[STRICK-]

fronts go lower than the rears with the BC setup. BCs will only allow for the rear tires to sit flush with the qtr panel, not tuck.

[madvillian]

fronts go lower than the rears with the BC setup. BCs will only allow for the rear tires to sit flush with the qtr panel, not tuck.

which is a total bummer.. it seriously sucks, i wish id got the H&R's for that reason, but im not going to trade them out now.

[Wastegate13]

which is a total bummer.. it seriously sucks, i wish id got the H&R's for that reason, but im not going to trade them out now.

There's no way in hell you'd ever tuck the tires on your setup anyway. What difference does it make?

[fostersafb]

Do you guys have your rears at the lowest position, both spring and shock? I worry that having it at the lowest might hurt their performance a bit.

[Wastegate13]

Do you guys have your rears at the lowest position, both spring and shock? I worry that having it at the lowest might hurt their performance a bit.

No, mine were actually perfect right out of the box. I measured them to make sure they were even side to side and put them in. I expected to have to make adjustments to the ride height to get where I wanted but I just lucked out.

[bykeryder4life]

I get confused when talkin about the dampening settings, is it the lower the number the harder the dampening? Or Opposite?

[bykeryder4life]

Secondly, I'm not sure if I installed something wrong, but the tab that holds the speed sensor in place that mounts to the end link tab on the strut housing sticks out about 1 1/2" from the strut housing itself. It was far enough to come in contact with the inner bead of the rims!



ya I had the same problem I grinded it down a little bit....

[CnoTataymo]

I get confused when talkin about the dampening settings, is it the lower the number the harder the dampening? Or Opposite?
The recommended from SU is 12 front and 15 rear. But I run mine at 9 front and 11 rear. The spring rates are 330 front and 220 rear. Just set it to what you like for DD.

[STRICK-]

ya I had the same problem I grinded it down a little bit....i had to mod mine as well, i just bent it in some.


I get confused when talkin about the dampening settings, is it the lower the number the harder the dampening? Or Opposite?
lower number = softer ride
higher number = stiffer ride

[mspeed3420]

I just got my BC's installed and I have them set at 12-front 15-rear but I'm with these other guys that its a little too stiff for daily driving, Im going to change it to 9 and 12 and see how that rides. I also have 15mm spacers on their way because the wheels are way to far in and Im going to set the cambers after the coils set in a week or so.

[CnoTataymo]

You'll rub in the rear even with it rolled.

[wldchld]

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e397/orngeboi/wholecamera360.jpg http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e397/orngeboi/wholecamera361.jpg

can u get a rear drop like this with bc's?

[wldchld]

im thinking about leaving the rear the way it is and just put the bc's in the front. thats where most of my problem is. i think the shocks are blown cause my ride is shitty.the back just follows. any suggestions?

[fostersafb]

So, I got some new info today from BC. We covered everything I had questions on.

Rear configuration/ride height/preload adjustment:

Ok so as far as ride height, the lowest they are intended to drop the MS3 is about even with the stock tires. Some may like it, other may want more. If more drop is needed you can remove the lower collar and basically just have the spring sit on the perch and plastic washer. This will drop the rear about 1/2" more.

Rear preload is set pretty specifically. You have to unbolt both the spring perch and lower shock mount. Once everything is unbolted and loose you position the spring collar at your desired height and assemble the collar/spring/donut in the spring perches. Using a jack you compress the spring to the point where both the top and bottom are in contact with the upper and lower perch. While doing this grab the spring and try and wiggle it around. Keep compressing the spring by using the jack until the point where the spring does not move vertically or horizontally. Basically you are trying to bring the spring to max rebound without being loose. Once you are there throw in the bolt that attaches the lower spring perch to the knuckle. Now you raise or lower the shock mount to line up with the mounts on the knuckle. Once you get the shock mount and knuckle mount lined up, throw in the other bolt and tighten her up. Loosen the set nut on the shock body. By hand turn the shock body clockwise, which will shorten the shock. Continue this until you begin to feel some resistance. As you are turning it, more compression is applied to the spring. The resistance you feel is the proper preload on the spring. For me it was about 10 turns. The theory behind matching the height of the shock to the level established by the spring at max rebound is that in driving situtuations where max rebound is achieved you dont want to limit the available shock travel by having it too short. The same applies to compression. If its too short you will just hit the bump stops.

Also, worth noting is to periodically check the tightness of the supplied 19mm bolt that mounts the spring collar to the lower perch. I guess people have had it work itself loose or fall out. Torque it down pretty good (they didnt have any torque specs). I tightened mine to about 100ft/lbs. If yours keeps coming loose, just add some loctite.

The front is pretty self explanatory. They are supposed to come preloaded from the factory but in case you have to adjust yours they recommend a 5mm preload compression. Basically, raise the top adjustment collar until it secures the spring where it does not move vertically at all. Once its held in place rotate the second collar until it touches the top collar. While keeping the second collar at that same height, rotate the top collar to raise it 5mm above the second collar. Once you get the 5mm raise the second collar and lock the preload collars together. Then you can do what you want with the third height adjustment collar.

I ended up removing one of the collars from the rears and adjusted the shock 15 turns up from the lowest point. I also set the front preload and dropped it another 5mm. I'm still running 12/15 but may adjust it a little softer,maybe 9f/12r.

Once they settle and I get her aligned I'll post up some pics. Hope this helps.

[fostersafb]

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e397/orngeboi/wholecamera360.jpg http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e397/orngeboi/wholecamera361.jpg

can u get a rear drop like this with bc's?

Yes, if you remove the lower collar from the rears. I'll post up pics of mine soon.

[CnoTataymo]

The lowest you can get with the BC's in there rear is a finger gap. If you want to try lower, you can try taking off the bottom ring and lower the ring that holds the spring. If anything, 1/2 finger gap. If you got more money, try seeing if you can get a shorter spring from either BC or another company.

[wldchld]

well i dont have more money so what do u think about keeping back set up the way it is? i have stock shocks w/ road magnet springs. and just fix the front. just asking opinion.

[Wastegate13]

If this isn't low enough for you, you have problems.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd159/vagolfer24/IMG_1374-small.jpg

[wldchld]

very nice! i like!

[fostersafb]

If this isn't low enough for you, you have problems.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd159/vagolfer24/IMG_1374-small.jpg

What wheels are those? They look like the 08 STI base models.

[Wastegate13]

What wheels are those? They look like the 08 STI base models.

Srsly? They are RX8 wheels.

[bykeryder4life]

i had to mod mine as well, i just bent it in some.


lower number = softer ride
higher number = stiffer ride

thanks for the clarity. Wow alot of people run these things pretty soft...I have mine are 14f and 16r and they dont feel that stiff as of now. Those wondering about the rear drop, I took out the lower ring to get the spring lower but with the shock already adjusted to as low as it goes I still have about a 1/2 to 1 finger gap. Thats with 225/40's on stock rims.

[Wastegate13]

thanks for the clarity. Wow alot of people run these things pretty soft...I have mine are 14f and 16r and they dont feel that stiff as of now. Those wondering about the rear drop, I took out the lower ring to get the spring lower but with the shock already adjusted to as low as it goes I still have about a 1/2 to 1 finger gap. Thats with 225/40's on stock rims.

225/40 is 14mm shorter, or about a half inch.

[CnoTataymo]

Wastegate, whose MS3 is that?

[STRICK-]

thanks for the clarity. Wow alot of people run these things pretty soft...I have mine are 14f and 16r and they dont feel that stiff as of now. Those wondering about the rear drop, I took out the lower ring to get the spring lower but with the shock already adjusted to as low as it goes I still have about a 1/2 to 1 finger gap. Thats with 225/40's on stock rims.
no problem, the only thing you need to be careful about running them stiff is the possibility of blowing them out. If you hit something in the street with them real stiff, theyll pop for sure. The stiffer settings are really just for track purposes only. good luck

[fostersafb]

Srsly? They are RX8 wheels.

Sorry, old suby convert here (doh)

They are similar though.

[Wastegate13]

Wastegate, whose MS3 is that?

His SN is Mushdawg over on M3F. On that forum he was the first member to run the BC's and I was the second. I think he may have the rear perch removed in that shot but I can't confirm that.

[CnoTataymo]

Thanks Wastegate. Since he is running 225/40's, he must have like almost a finger gap.

[Wastegate13]

Thanks Wastegate. Since he is running 225/40's, he must have like almost a finger gap.

I don't know what tire size Mushdawg is running in that pic either. My big concern with lowering was to get the front down. I could not stand that the front sat higher than the rear stock on this car.

[bykeryder4life]

no problem, the only thing you need to be careful about running them stiff is the possibility of blowing them out. If you hit something in the street with them real stiff, theyll pop for sure. The stiffer settings are really just for track purposes only. good luck

I dont think I will have to worry about them blowing up considering I am only about halfway towards the hardest setting so I have a "comfort zone". I actually might try to soften the dampening a little and see how I like it.

[fostersafb]

Just an update for those interested. I had removed one of the rear rings and lengthened the shock body yesterday. The height is sitting at about 1 very tight finger which is ok, I'd prefer it a bit higher. The ride characteristics have totally changed though. The car is much more bouncy and feels less solid than it did when I had both rings, adjusted to the lowest setting and the shock adjusted all the way down. I think with the shock extended the car is riding more on the spring than the shock which will cause the bounciness.

I think I'll put back in the rear rings and adjust the shock only a few turns from the lowest setting and see how that is.

[bykeryder4life]

ya you wanna adjust it so that the spring is not too compressed compared to the length of the shock, or vice versa- that will cause bouncy-ness. It must be adjusted in equal proportions. I wanna cut down the threads on the adjustment part for the shock and shave the rubber spacer above the springs down to get my car about .5" lower. I already removed the lower of the two rear rings. If I can get my tires (225/40) flush with the wheelwell I will be happy as a clam on a mud bank at high tide

[bykeryder4life]

my car right now...

[Wastegate13]

my car right now...

Call me old fashioned but I think that looks perfect.

[bykeryder4life]

haha thank you man, I am really happy with the BC's. I have a few more of the car and one of the lower ring I took out from the rear spring.....

[Wastegate13]

haha thank you man, I am really happy with the BC's. I have a few more of the car and one of the lower ring I took out from the rear spring.....



It's funny but a drop makes the stock wheels look half decent. Any plans to buy wheels?

[CnoTataymo]

haha thank you man, I am really happy with the BC's. I have a few more of the car and one of the lower ring I took out from the rear spring.....
So in these pictures, you have the lower ring off in the rear and are all the way down? If so, I still have the lower ring and still have 2 threads on the sleeves. When I had the stock tire size, I was a finger gap. You should be lower.

[bykeryder4life]

stock tires are 215/45 now i have 225/40 so they have a different profile. The stock tires fill in the gap more. Those pics were before the rings were removed but I dont think it made much difference maybe .15-.25 inch at best. I have about a one finger gap right now maybe slightly less my hands are huge!

Wastegate: I do plan on getting wheels, but it's not high on my priority list right now I am fine with stock. just a tad too skinny though.

[bykeryder4life]

the front could go wayyy lower than it is right now, I have it set so the car isnt raked too bad with how low the rears go, or dont. I will post pics when I do some custom work to get them lower and tuck tires f/r

[fostersafb]

my car right now...

I agree, that looks perfect to me. Mine is lower than yours in the rear with just one of the rings removed. Today i tried and could not get my index finger between in the gap. The rears are officially tucking now after some settling. I'm going to put the ring back in and hopefully end up at the height your at.

[bykeryder4life]

ya with the ring in you will be at the height in the pics. Do you still have stock tires? I checked the gap I currently have with the rings removed and it's a tight one finger gap when the car is level. I am unsure if I wanna go lower because when I get new wheels/tires one day it will be perfect and flush, I will most likely have to raise the front depending on the tires but I want like 245's eventually

edit.....thanks wastegate and fostersafb for the nice comments I like when others are down with what I got going on. Post pics of your rides! fostersafb: I am in Oceanside San Diego hit me up if your ever around the area

[fostersafb]

ya with the ring in you will be at the height in the pics. Do you still have stock tires? I checked the gap I currently have with the rings removed and it's a tight one finger gap when the car is level. I am unsure if I wanna go lower because when I get new wheels/tires one day it will be perfect and flush, I will most likely have to raise the front depending on the tires but I want like 245's eventually

edit.....thanks wastegate and fostersafb for the nice comments I like when others are down with what I got going on. Post pics of your rides! fostersafb: I am in Oceanside San Diego hit me up if your ever around the area

I put the second ring back in place and adjusted the shock to 5 turns from full low and its night and day difference. Not bouncy anymore and the height now matches the front and looks more like yours now. I'm much happier than before.

I'm thinking the same thing with tires. Looking to get 235's/245's depending on what width wheel I end up with.

I dont know when id be down in your are any time soon but if I did, it would be cool to meet up with another enthusiast.

Still working on pictures. Its been pretty wet here lately.

[bykeryder4life]

Shit you had both of the rings off? How did the spring sit/get held in place since the lower of those two rings has a lip on it that the plastic shim and spring sit and stay centered on.?? ya rain sucks I just got my cpe fmic on today and couldnt really get on it and see how the car reacts because everywhere is so damn wet.

[fostersafb]

Shit you had both of the rings off? How did the spring sit/get held in place since the lower of those two rings has a lip on it that the plastic shim and spring sit and stay centered on.?? ya rain sucks I just got my cpe fmic on today and couldnt really get on it and see how the car reacts because everywhere is so damn wet.

I only took the smaller of the two rings out but that was enough to make her sit too low for my taste. I dont know how the spring would stay in place with the perch ring.

Yep, it sucks being wet all over however it gave me another reason to upsize my tires and wheels. When I was stock I would break loose in 3rd gear in the rain, then I flashed the AP stage 1 and in the rain would break loose in 4th gear! Kind of scary going 45mph and getting full wheel spin. (wow) After the coilovers I don't break loose as bad anymore in 4th. 1st, 2nd and 3rd, you know the story.

In dry weather the coilovers helped too. Before stage 1 I would break loose in 1st pretty bad and second gear yielded some annoying wheel hop and flashing TCS and DSC lights on the gauge cluster. After stage 1 the 2nd gear wheel hop became full on smoking tires if the torque came on at the right time. After installing the coilovers the 2nd gear wheel spin is almost gone, not nearly as pronounced.

My goal since I began modding the car was to do all that I could to get the power to road. I'm a Subaru convert so I never had any issues with putting down the power. My Forester XT put down 280/320 on a mustang dyno and with all season M+S tires I would barely break loose in 1st gear. I knew I would eventually have to start choosing mods to get the power down but didn't realize how soon I would have to start that. Stage 1 was enough for me to put all other power mods on hold until I could get some nice and wide rubber under the car. I'm deciding between 245's or stretched 235's on 8.5's.

[bykeryder4life]

I have also felt a big difference in how the car puts the power to the ground since installing my BC's. I dont get wheelhop, and with good timing and throttle control (most important) I can run through gears and only chirp the tires. My stock dyno was 247whp 282wtq so now with a dp and fmic which raised my boost to 18psi I would say i have around 265whp and 300wtq (conservative guess) and the car handles it very well.
I would say go for 245's if you get 8.5" wheels, but you must already know your gonna have to roll the fenders and adjust/realign your suspension from where it's at now. Personally I think 8" wide rims are a good choice for the car and not look too out of place on a fwd....just my opinion though that shit bothers me. But, if you wanna make some big power you will want 8.5 or 9 inch wheels............. Now post some pics of the ride............ everyone who has BC's

[DaleNixon]

Subbin'

I'm planning on getting some BC's very soon and I'm running RX8 wheels with 235/40/18 tires.

[RichB]

I think your gonna have to roll the rear fenders

[DaleNixon]

That would depend on how low I go. Sacrilicous was running Cobb springs with my same setup and didn't get any rubbing.

[RichB]

I've seen people say they had rubbing with that set-up and stock suspension when goin over big bumps and / or with people in the back.

[DaleNixon]

Damn first my Cobb Inlet and now my coilovers :(

lol j/k

I guess worst case I can keep it stock height on BC's and get lower profile tires later.

[RichB]

What are the Offset of the RX-8 wheels? Depending on that configuration it may work. The people with 18X8's and 235 40s who where rubbing had like a 42 offset. If the RX-8s are bigger you might be fine.

[STRICK-]

All of this is depends on different peoples definition of rubbing. Im sure everyone will define it differently for you. Then theres outside influence(e.g. passengers/height, etc..)It makes no sense that a +50 wheel and tire setup will rub if people are putting +30/35 offsets on there cars. Good luck with whatever you decide.

[RichB]

are the people who are using the 30 / 35 offsets using 235 40s?

[STRICK-]

i guess that would depend on the wheel width. Im running 225/40 on an 18 x 8" +35 wheel. 8.5" and up need at least a 235 though. You "should" be able to fit an 18 x 8"/8.5" w/ an +45/48 offset without rubbing with either a 225/40 or 235/40 tire IMO..

[RichB]

Well.... if it doesn't rub it's close. It's worth a shot because I think the 215s are too skinny.

[DaleNixon]

RX8's are +50. I think/hope they'll work.

[RichB]

you might be good

[Boostin McFly]

How long do the BC coilovers take to install and are they very difficult to do? Could I do them with just 1-2 friends because I just got quoted by a shop they would charge me $200 to install which I would rather just keep in my pocket if it wasn't too difficult. Also, do I need any special tools besides the springs compressors I could borrow from autozone?

[Wastegate13]

How long do the BC coilovers take to install and are they very difficult to do? Could I do them with just 1-2 friends because I just got quoted by a shop they would charge me $200 to install which I would rather just keep in my pocket if it wasn't too difficult. Also, do I need any special tools besides the springs compressors I could borrow from autozone?

The BC's don't require you to cannibalize the stock suspension. Unbolt the stock pieces and bolt in the BC stuff. Just be sure to adjust the rear shock length to match the rear spring height and you will be golden. I wrote a short writeup when I installed mine but it's on the other forums and it won't let me link it here.

[Ferdball]

Bump. Getting mine soon from the GB. Why aren't there more pictures in here.

Cam, the car looks HOT!

[GhostMercury]

The BC's don't require you to cannibalize the stock suspension. Unbolt the stock pieces and bolt in the BC stuff. Just be sure to adjust the rear shock length to match the rear spring height and you will be golden. I wrote a short writeup when I installed mine but it's on the other forums and it won't let me link it here.

What do you mean by this? Like how do you know when they match?

[MBOIZ-MS3]

If this isn't low enough for you, you have problems.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd159/vagolfer24/IMG_1374-small.jpg

That is low enough for me... I love the way it sitz... What u runnin' 4 ur suspension...? (cool)

[CnoTataymo]

If you have an air compressor and impact gun, taking everything off will be fast and easy. Everything will swap right now. If you haul ass and figure things out right away, no more then 1.5-2 hours.

[RichB]

If this isn't low enough for you, you have problems.



Are those RX-8 rims painted matte black?

[Wastegate13]

What do you mean by this? Like how do you know when they match?

That is explained in the instructions. If I can find mine I will post what it says, of course anyone else with the BC's can post it as well.


That is low enough for me... I love the way it sitz... What u runnin' 4 ur suspension...? (cool)

That's not my car, it belongs to Mushdawg from the other forums. He had the BC coilovers with the rear collar removed.


Are those RX-8 rims painted matte black?

Yes they are RX8 wheels painted matte black.

[daonly1around]

i'm gonna be running a set of BC coilovers as well in the next week or two. And with wheels i've yet to see on a speed... hehe

I'll be contacting you when they come in wastegate about setting them up!!

[STRICK-]

im taking the rear collars out this weekend and lowering the fronts to match before HIN on the 25th. Ill post some pics next week, its gonna be close w/ the +35s on there (boom01)

[Wastegate13]

im taking the rear collars out this weekend and lowering the fronts to match before HIN on the 25th. Ill post some pics next week, its gonna be close w/ the +35s on there (boom01)

I'm anxious to see how it turns out. I wanna lower the rear of mine some more but I haven't rolled the fenders yet. I am really just worried about the paint cracking and then not being able to match the pearl if I were to have it repainted. As it sits now the rear does not rub at all.

[STRICK-]

I'm anxious to see how it turns out. I wanna lower the rear of mine some more but I haven't rolled the fenders yet. I am really just worried about the paint cracking and then not being able to match the pearl if I were to have it repainted. As it sits now the rear does not rub at all.

I understand what your saying about the paint cracking, mine cracked when i did it originally. Thats why I had mine hammered out and repainted. Mine arent even lowered all the way down now, so it should be interesting.

[RichB]

Yes they are RX8 wheels painted matte black.

You know if those are stock rubber? looks like they are stretched.

[CnoTataymo]

I believe they're 225/40 from what he told me last time.

[Ferdball]

…
Rear preload is set pretty specifically. You have to unbolt both the spring perch and lower shock mount. Once everything is unbolted and loose you position the spring collar at your desired height and assemble the collar/spring/donut in the spring perches. Using a jack you compress the spring to the point where both the top and bottom are in contact with the upper and lower perch. While doing this grab the spring and try and wiggle it around. Keep compressing the spring by using the jack until the point where the spring does not move vertically or horizontally. Basically you are trying to bring the spring to max rebound without being loose. (1)
Once you are there throw in the bolt that attaches the lower spring perch to the knuckle.(2) Now you raise or lower the shock mount to line up with the mounts on the knuckle. Once you get the shock mount and knuckle mount lined up, throw in the other bolt and tighten her up.
Loosen the set nut on the shock body. By hand turn the shock body clockwise, which will shorten the shock. Continue this until you begin to feel some resistance.(3) As you are turning it, more compression is applied to the spring. The resistance you feel is the proper preload on the spring. For me it was about 10 turns. The theory behind matching the height of the shock to the level established by the spring at max rebound is that in driving situations where max rebound is achieved you dont want to limit the available shock travel by having it too short. The same applies to compression. If its too short you will just hit the bump stops…

1) Compress the spring perch until max rebound.
2) Attach knuckle. (Is that the lower shock mount point?)
3) Rotate shock body clockwise until resistance is felt. Tighten set nut.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a179/ferdball/Mazdaspeed3/BC-4.jpg
Wastegate13’s picture
Where exactly is the knuckle?

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a179/ferdball/Mazdaspeed3/DSC00373-1.jpg
Rear BC setup

[Ferdball]

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a179/ferdball/Mazdaspeed3/IMG_5001.jpg
Before

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a179/ferdball/Mazdaspeed3/DSC00397.jpg
After - I’m too high

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a179/ferdball/Mazdaspeed3/DSC00393.jpg
My Front setup

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a179/ferdball/Mazdaspeed3/DSC00379.jpg
Out of the box

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a179/ferdball/Mazdaspeed3/BC-10.jpg
Wastegate13’s setup

The problem when installing the front was that there was no point of reference to set the height to. So we set them to the stock struts and installed. I obviously have mine set too high.

[fostersafb]

Before


After - I’m too high


My Front setup


Out of the box


Wastegate13’s setup

The problem when installing the front was that there was no point of reference to set the height to. So we set them to the stock struts and installed. I obviously have mine set too high.

The fronts just require a little bit of adjustment to get right. No big deal as you can adjust the height by just taking the wheels off.

To answer your question about the knuckle, I consider the knuckle the component that the wheel hub bolts to. So the coilovers don't have a knuckle they bolt to the shock mounting point on the knuckle. Please somebody correct me if my terminology isn't correct.

As far as the height in the rear goes it depends how low you want to go. With the rear spring collar adjusted all the way down you will have a 1 1/2-2 finger gap in the rear. If you want to go lower just remove the lower ring and that will drop it another 1/2" or so. I think i have mine set with both rings adjusted as low as possible and and the shock is something like 20-25 rotations from full extension. I have a 1 1/2 finger gap which I'm happy with.

Let me know if you have more questions, enjoy the BC's!

[CnoTataymo]

With the both rings in and all the way down, my stock tires were flush with the fender. I've noticed people with BC's have all different heights when lowered all the way.

[STRICK-]

i just made these adjustments to the rears this weekend. I also adjusted the fronts to match as well.

rears before
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f175/striklymyn69/033-1.jpg
rears after
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f175/striklymyn69/034-1.jpg

before
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f175/striklymyn69/007-8.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f175/striklymyn69/newpic5copy.png
after
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f175/striklymyn69/new-1.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f175/striklymyn69/newstance5.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f175/striklymyn69/newstance.jpg

[Wastegate13]

You also have a slightly shorter tire. I think my car sits about how yours did in the before pictures.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v133/Wastegate13/newcar062-1.jpg

[Ferdball]

Looks good. I think I might go with your before setting. Looks to be about 2 threads left on the bottom.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f175/striklymyn69/007-8.jpg

[STRICK-]

the low offset will play mind games with you when comparing to a stock setup. The distance that the stock wheel sits in and away from the fender gives a "more wheel gap" look at the same height,than a setup that is closer to the fender. Did that sound really confusing or do you all understand what im trying to explain.


Ferdball, thank you for the kind words, and your just going to have to make a few adjustments till you find what works best for you. This will be my 5th adjustment and when HIN is over ill probably put it back up a little. good luck

[CnoTataymo]

I've adjusted my height like 15 times. The fronts are easy. The rears, I wish they could be easier.

[RichB]

STRICK just for clarification what tire size you got in thos shots.

[Wastegate13]

STRICK just for clarification what tire size you got in thos shots.

225/40 Nitto INVO on 18x8 +35.

[Ferdball]

I've adjusted my height like 15 times. The fronts are easy. The rears, I wish they could be easier.

15 times?!? You prolly have this process down!

[RichB]

225/40 Nitto INVO on 18x8 +35.

you have 225 40s too right?

[CnoTataymo]

15 times?!? You prolly have this process down!
Yeah but it can be WAY easier.

[STRICK-]

you have 225 40s too right?

i believe hes running 215/45s......im not 100% though

[Wastegate13]

i believe hes running 215/45s......im not 100% though

+1

Stock Potenzas on the 4th set of wheels so far. lol

[RichB]

on 18X8s?

wow i feel like i am asking a lot of questions.

[Wastegate13]

on 18X8s?

wow i feel like i am asking a lot of questions.

Yes. Here is all the info about my suspension/wheel/tire setup I can think of off the top of my head.

BC coilovers, 1 5/16" lowered F, 5/16" lowered R
COBB rear sway
18x8 +40 BBS LM
215/45R18 Bridgestone Potenza RE050A

No fender roll and no rub so far. I wanna bring the rear down some more to match the front so I might need to roll. We'll see.

[RichB]

I appreciate your patience.

you can tell I am really researching this huh?

[Wastegate13]

I appreciate your patience.

you can tell I am really researching this huh?

No problem. I can appreciate people who genuinely want to learn and not be spoon fed information that they have no idea what to do with.

[Ferdball]

Sag

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a179/ferdball/Mazdaspeed3/DSC00394.jpg
LR - Initial

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a179/ferdball/Mazdaspeed3/DSC00405.jpg
LR - 3 days and 80 miles later

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a179/ferdball/Mazdaspeed3/DSC00395.jpg
LF - Initial

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a179/ferdball/Mazdaspeed3/DSC00406.jpg
LF - 3 days and 80 miles later

These are slightly different angles and distances, but they look completely different. Even the portion of the shock looks different. In the front pics, you can see the collar nuts, where initially you couldn't.

Dampening
I got the Left Rear dampening adjustment knob in. But how in the hell are you supposed to get the Right Rear in? When the extenders come in, do I have to uninstall the rear shocks to get them in?

[CnoTataymo]

To get to the right there, I just open the little cover near the light and stick my hand in there to adjust the knob.

[Ferdball]

To get to the right there, I just open the little cover near the light and stick my hand in there to adjust the knob.

I don't have Popeye forearms, but unless I unpop every little tab and snap, I can't get in there. I was able to drop the knob into the hole, but I can't get it to grab onto the adjustment threads. I think there is a sheet of metal on the side which may force it to go down the hole at an angle, instead of straight down. The thing was about to cut my forearm off, so I gave up. I hope the extenders help.

[Wastegate13]

I don't have Popeye forearms, but unless I unpop every little tab and snap, I can't get in there. I was able to drop the knob into the hole, but I can't get it to grab onto the adjustment threads. I think there is a sheet of metal on the side which may force it to go down the hole at an angle, instead of straight down. The thing was about to cut my forearm off, so I gave up. I hope the extenders help.

Huh? You don't have to remove the adjustment knobs to install the rear shocks. It does take some contorting, particularly on the passenger side to get your hand to the knob though.

[Ferdball]

Huh? You don't have to remove the adjustment knobs to install the rear shocks. It does take some contorting, particularly on the passenger side to get your hand to the knob though.

I didn't install the adjuster knobs when I installed the shocks.

[Wastegate13]

I didn't install the adjuster knobs when I installed the shocks.

They come already installed on the shocks. At least mine did.

[Ferdball]

They come already installed on the shocks. At least mine did.

My rear knobs came in a bag.

[STRICK-]

mine came in a bag too. I keep them in my ashtray now

[RichB]

mine came in a bag too. I keep them in my ashtray now

Why not just leave them on?

[Ferdball]

7 turns in the front = 1/2 inch.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a179/ferdball/Mazdaspeed3/DSC00407.jpg
Before

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a179/ferdball/Mazdaspeed3/DSC00409.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a179/ferdball/Mazdaspeed3/DSC00411.jpg
After

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a179/ferdball/Mazdaspeed3/DSC00414.jpg

[Ferdball]

1) Compress the spring perch until max rebound.
2) Attach knuckle. (Is that the lower shock mount point?)
3) Rotate shock body clockwise until resistance is felt. Tighten set nut.


Okay, I can't get the knuckle to line up unless I jack it way up. Jacking it up compresses the spring, so I can't get to max rebound. I have to jack it up even further to get the lower shock bolt in also.

Am I doing something wrong?

[Ferdball]

also, do the extenders go on before or after the rear shock install?

[CHIEFSMS3]

Ferdball did that PM help you out any
or even make sense to you?

On the extenders it looks to me like it would be easier put them on then install the shock. I haven't done it yet but it looks like it might be pretty hard to get them on and tighten the set screw all with one hand in a very tight spot.

[Ferdball]

extenders don't fit. pics later.

[CnoTataymo]

They sure don't unless you can find a way the knobs can screw onto the stock a lot more. Stupid little metal piece that's in that area.

[Ferdball]

here is how I did the rear. I installed the spring and the top of the shock. With the car supported with a jack stand I let the jack pressure off of the spring so it was at max rebound(hanging). Then I twisted the shock adjustment down till the holes lined up and installed the bolt. Then I twisted the shock body 10 full(360 degree) turns up to set the preload. It seems to be working alright for me.

With the help of my mechanic and his lift, we got the shock adjusted down. But I didn't do more than a few turns for the preload.

I turned the dampening to 30 (full soft), and will adjust harder slowly.

OT, looks like we'll be enemies on 10/25 and 11/29. Should be a good season with Denver out of the way.

[Ferdball]

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a179/ferdball/Mazdaspeed3/IMG_5300.jpg
Knob obstruction

Here's what Tatay's talking about. There is some sheet metal too close to the adjustment knob. The knob barely turns as is. So there's no way that the extender will fit over it.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a179/ferdball/Mazdaspeed3/IMG_5301.jpg
Opened her up

So we removed all of these interior pieces just to get a grinder to that part.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a179/ferdball/Mazdaspeed3/IMG_5305.jpg
Doesn't fit

It turns out that the extenders don't fit on the rear adjustment knobs anyway. They do fit on the fronts, so we thought we'd just swap the knobs. But the front knobs don't come off. So all of this work is wasted and I still have to adjust it the hard way.

BTW, if you have your Sirius box mounted there, it is almost impossible to get your fingers around the knob.

Frustration level = 8.5 out of 10.

[fostersafb]

For the right rear damepening adjustment, I just use an allen wrench instead of the adjuster nob that came with them. I had the same issue with that piece of metal in the way. I just leave the allen in place like you would the nob. Because of the smaller profile the allen rotates just fine.

On a side note, because of the access through the jack compartment and that little tab that pops out on the right for (light access?) theres no need for the extenders.

[fostersafb]

I don't have Popeye forearms, but unless I unpop every little tab and snap, I can't get in there. I was able to drop the knob into the hole, but I can't get it to grab onto the adjustment threads. I think there is a sheet of metal on the side which may force it to go down the hole at an angle, instead of straight down. The thing was about to cut my forearm off, so I gave up. I hope the extenders help.

I sanded the edges of the the access window on the right rear side to save my arm.

[fostersafb]

BTW, for those interested I changed my dampening settings yesterday to 12F/16R (40%/53%) and so far i like it much better. Before I was running 9F/12R (30%/40%) and lately they have been feeling a bit squishy to me. The temp has gone up around here too. We've had a couple 80* days which may have something to do with it, who knows.

[Ferdball]

...On a side note, because of the access through the jack compartment and that little tab that pops out on the right for (light access?) theres no need for the extenders.

Just curious, do you have Sirius? If my Sirius receiver wasn't installed between the access hole and the adjustment knob, it would be a LOT easier. Right now, I can barely get to that knob.

[CHIEFSMS3]

BTW, for those interested I changed my dampening settings yesterday to 12F/16R (40%/53%) and so far i like it much better. Before I was running 9F/12R (30%/40%) and lately they have been feeling a bit squishy to me. The temp has gone up around here too. We've had a couple 80* days which may have something to do with it, who knows.

??????????????
My directions say that 0 is hardest and 30 is softest.
It looks to me like you just softened them rather than making them stiffer.
Am I missing something here?

[STRICK-]

0 is the softest

30 is the stiffest

i wouldnt run them any higher than 18 for street use

[Ferdball]

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a179/ferdball/Mazdaspeed3/BCCoilovers004.jpg

[CHIEFSMS3]

Thank you Ferdball.

[Ferdball]

Problem solved. All I needed to do was "avoid producing ablated tooth or the distortion; further, to damage the shock absorber or endanger the traffic safety." Duh.

[Moxhair]

The translations really cracked me up, but I used them for a shop rag and just did the install with common sense.

[Ferdball]

I could not keep up with the lighter Mazda 3 ahead of me. I still need to tweak. I'm 3rd one in front of the camera car.

http://vimeo.com/4232860

[SallySpeed3]

Hey guys, I had never considered doing anything to the speed3's suspension but now that I read this thread and after seeing what a difference the lower stance makes, I"m considering getting the BC's. Just had a couple questions. Is this doable in your driveway? meaning is it an easy enough job for a non-mechanic to do with the right tools? And also, do you still need to get sway bars to help with body roll and such? I'm assuming yes but I don't know much about cars on the suspension end. Thanks

[CnoTataymo]

Hey guys, I had never considered doing anything to the speed3's suspension but now that I read this thread and after seeing what a difference the lower stance makes, I"m considering getting the BC's. Just had a couple questions. Is this doable in your driveway? meaning is it an easy enough job for a non-mechanic to do with the right tools? And also, do you still need to get sway bars to help with body roll and such? I'm assuming yes but I don't know much about cars on the suspension end. Thanks
Swapping to full coilovers is easy. You'll pretty much need 3 different size wrenchs/sockets (12,14,17,19mm) an allen wrench, floorjack, jackstands and hammer. If you've got an impact gun, taking off the nuts/bolts would be quicker.

You'll notice the car will be firmer over bumps. There will be no more weird "float" feeling and the car will handle a little more confidently.

As for sway bars, upgrading the rear will plant the rear of the car nicely. Turning response will improve. You'll definitely feel the difference.As for the front, I have no experience but I would think it will balance the car out more.

[SallySpeed3]

Thanks for the reply. Speaking of bumps. My biggest complaint about the stock speed3 suspension is every little bump or crack in any road sounds and feels like a huge crater. Do the coilovers help with that?

[RichB]

Not if you lower your ride height.

Another good way to soften the harshness of your ride is to go with tires that have a softer side wall. Without even knowing I did this when I went with Pirelli pzeros. I noticed a softer ride instantly without changing anything else.

Since I like the harshness I am going to go with tires that have stiffer sidewalls the next time around.

[RichB]

I sanded the edges of the the access window on the right rear side to save my arm.

So are the extenders useless for the rear even if you put them on before you install the shock absorber?

[Ferdball]

So are the extenders useless for the rear even if you put them on before you install the shock absorber?

they are useless because they don't fit.

[RichB]

thats dissapointing

[CnoTataymo]

If your arms aren't that big, just take off the panels that come off. But if they are, just take the whole side panels off. It's pretty easy access that way. That's if you don't mind opening the hatch and seeing bare metal.

[Ferdball]

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a179/ferdball/Mazdaspeed3/IMG_5305.jpg
Extenders don't fit adjustment knobs

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a179/ferdball/Mazdaspeed3/IMG_5301.jpg
So, if you have Sirius, you'll have to pull the interior.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a179/ferdball/Mazdaspeed3/IMG_5300.jpg
And grind the metal around the knob.

It would be nice to get smaller knobs. The ones up front look like they would solve each of these problems. Ken was looking into this, but haven't heard back from him yet.

[daonly1around]

anyone know if the springs are completely symmetrical? like from up and down and right to left?

I'm hearing a lot of noise from mine, it sounds like stuff is lose, but everything is TIGHT!!!'

I'm thinking my shock my be too long for the height?

[CHIEFSMS3]

So, I got some new info today from BC. We covered everything I had questions on.

Rear configuration/ride height/preload adjustment:

Ok so as far as ride height, the lowest they are intended to drop the MS3 is about even with the stock tires. Some may like it, other may want more. If more drop is needed you can remove the lower collar and basically just have the spring sit on the perch and plastic washer. This will drop the rear about 1/2" more.

Rear preload is set pretty specifically. You have to unbolt both the spring perch and lower shock mount. Once everything is unbolted and loose you position the spring collar at your desired height and assemble the collar/spring/donut in the spring perches. Using a jack you compress the spring to the point where both the top and bottom are in contact with the upper and lower perch. While doing this grab the spring and try and wiggle it around. Keep compressing the spring by using the jack until the point where the spring does not move vertically or horizontally. Basically you are trying to bring the spring to max rebound without being loose. Once you are there throw in the bolt that attaches the lower spring perch to the knuckle. Now you raise or lower the shock mount to line up with the mounts on the knuckle. Once you get the shock mount and knuckle mount lined up, throw in the other bolt and tighten her up. Loosen the set nut on the shock body. By hand turn the shock body clockwise, which will shorten the shock. Continue this until you begin to feel some resistance. As you are turning it, more compression is applied to the spring. The resistance you feel is the proper preload on the spring. For me it was about 10 turns. The theory behind matching the height of the shock to the level established by the spring at max rebound is that in driving situtuations where max rebound is achieved you dont want to limit the available shock travel by having it too short. The same applies to compression. If its too short you will just hit the bump stops.

Also, worth noting is to periodically check the tightness of the supplied 19mm bolt that mounts the spring collar to the lower perch. I guess people have had it work itself loose or fall out. Torque it down pretty good (they didnt have any torque specs). I tightened mine to about 100ft/lbs. If yours keeps coming loose, just add some loctite.

The front is pretty self explanatory. They are supposed to come preloaded from the factory but in case you have to adjust yours they recommend a 5mm preload compression. Basically, raise the top adjustment collar until it secures the spring where it does not move vertically at all. Once its held in place rotate the second collar until it touches the top collar. While keeping the second collar at that same height, rotate the top collar to raise it 5mm above the second collar. Once you get the 5mm raise the second collar and lock the preload collars together. Then you can do what you want with the third height adjustment collar.

I ended up removing one of the collars from the rears and adjusted the shock 15 turns up from the lowest point. I also set the front preload and dropped it another 5mm. I'm still running 12/15 but may adjust it a little softer,maybe 9f/12r.

Once they settle and I get her aligned I'll post up some pics. Hope this helps.

^^^^Have you adjusted the rear preload?^^^^

[daonly1around]

^^^^Have you adjusted the rear preload?^^^^

no i didn't, but i'll do that this weekend sometime, I figured out what was causing my noise.. but thanks for that tip..

[Ferdball]

The rear preload would affect stiffness more than noise, I would think. Besides, do you get the noise up front or in back? I get some noise up front when going slow and turning hard.

[RichB]

The pre-load is so the shock won't reach its fully extended position during normal driving conditions. To put it in simple words, when you jack up your car and your wheels are hanging, the shock still has some more travel before it can't extend anymore.

As regards to the noises you are hearing have you checked your endlinks? You have to remove them in order to install the coilovers and they are known to cause low speed clunking.

[mrjoshyman]

so since 0 is full hard, 12f = 12 away from full hard? just making sure i got this right, b/c my fronts seems a bit stiff

[RichB]

I thought 30 was the hardest setting

[Ferdball]

I thought 30 was the hardest setting

Check post #130.

[RichB]

Ahhhh ok. I found what you meant in post 120.

When people post their settings I believe they are using the convention that 0 is full soft. I have seen posted 8F/ 8R for daily driving and 16F/26R for the track. If they were using the convention posted in post 120 it wouldn't make sense to me.

[mrjoshyman]

yeah, so there still seems to be some confusion over the settings? i have mine set at 12F, 15R according to the manual. whats the deal?

ok, so i didn't do the install on these myself but i'd like to raise my front a little bit.

once the front wheels are off you see this:

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a179/ferdball/Mazdaspeed3/DSC00393.jpg

what exactly am i going to want to do 2 change the height? i imagine it has something to do with the lowest collar, but a detailed response would make me feel much more confident then just going at it and messing something up

[Wastegate13]

yeah, so there still seems to be some confusion over the settings? i have mine set at 12F, 15R according to the manual. whats the deal?

ok, so i didn't do the install on these myself but i'd like to raise my front a little bit.

once the front wheels are off you see this:

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a179/ferdball/Mazdaspeed3/DSC00393.jpg

what exactly am i going to want to do 2 change the height? i imagine it has something to do with the lowest collar, but a detailed response would make me feel much more confident then just going at it and messing something up


The fronts are super easy. The lowest collar is the height adjustment collar. Simply loosen it, then turn the shock body to your desired height and retighten the collar. Done.

[Ferdball]

To raise or lower the front, you will need to turn the bottom part that has the BC sticker on it. To do that, you'll need to unbolt the ABS sensor bracket and the brake line bracket. Then there is a bolt holding a collar tight around the bottom of the strut. Loosen that and lower the hub/suspension. Then rotate the bottom part of the strut. 7 times is about a 1/4". Repeat on the other side.

[CHIEFSMS3]

Ferdball you are not correct with that information.
You either have not changed the front height or you spent a whole lot of time doing stuff you didn't need to do.
Wastegate is telling you the correct way to change the height on the front.

[Ferdball]

you're right, you don't need to undo the lines.

[mrjoshyman]

The fronts are super easy. The lowest collar is the height adjustment collar. Simply loosen it, then turn the shock body to your desired height and retighten the collar. Done.

so the "shock body" is the threaded piece, i just did the driver side without much issue.

the passenger side im having trouble gripping onto the shock body, it seems like just the spring is spinning. i think it could have something to do with the fact that i originally had the front ride height set so that nearly all 3 collars were touching...basically had about 2mm between the bottom 1 and the top 2. (turn counter clockwise to increase ride height, correct?)

any recommendations on how to get the shock body to move or any other ways of adjusting the front ride height?

[mrjoshyman]

To raise or lower the front, you will need to turn the bottom part that has the BC sticker on it. To do that, you'll need to unbolt the ABS sensor bracket and the brake line bracket. Then there is a bolt holding a collar tight around the bottom of the strut. Loosen that and lower the hub/suspension. Then rotate the bottom part of the strut. 7 times is about a 1/4". Repeat on the other side.

by lower the hub/suspension do u mean take the whole strut out of the support its in? ie bang the shit out if with a hammer so that the strut is completely out?

can't do it if u just loosen that piece up?

[RichB]

alright, what wastegate was trying to tell you was to loosen the bottom ring. That ring is the locking ring for the shock body height adjustment. Once you have that ring loose you rotate the threaded part of the shock body to either go up or down to increase or lower the ride height. You should not have to unbolt anything else since the threaded shock body is independent of the part that connects to the strut support arm.

[mrjoshyman]

alright, what wastegate was trying to tell you was to loosen the bottom ring. That ring is the locking ring for the shock body height adjustment. Once you have that ring loose you rotate the threaded part of the shock body to either go up or down to increase or lower the ride height. You should not have to unbolt anything else since the threaded shock body is independent of the part that connects to the strut support arm.

I know, I did that on the drivers side without much issue. On the passenger side I can't get the shock body to move, I loosen the lower ring but it won't move, I'm only able to move the spring. I basically had the height adjusted all the way down so I'm only able to loosen the lowest ring a little bit before it hits the top rings. Any suggestions?

as you can see, i dont have much room to loosen the bottom ring:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y119/mrjoshyman/photo-1.jpg

[RichB]

so your saying that both drivers side and passenger side are at the same height setting but the rings on the passenger side are that bunched?

something has got to be wrong! Both sides should look similar.

[Ferdball]

Okay, this was the first time ever that I did this, so I may need some clarification too. I thought to change the height you had to spin the bottom portion.

Are you saying you could just grab the threaded part and spin that? With the top perch tight and the bottom part still bolted?

[mrjoshyman]

Okay, this was the first time ever that I did this, so I may need some clarification too. I thought to change the height you had to spin the bottom portion.

Are you saying you could just grab the threaded part and spin that? With the top perch tight and the bottom part still bolted?

yup, thats how its supposed to work. it took me about 2 min to do on the driver side...now only if the passenger side would budge...



so your saying that both drivers side and passenger side are at the same height setting but the rings on the passenger side are that bunched?

something has got to be wrong! Both sides should look similar.


No, no. Both originally looked like that, I was able to loosen the ring on the driver side and then turn the shock body. The picture is of the left side, showing that I don't have much room to loosen the ring/much to grip on to, and when i try to rotate the shock body the only thing that moves is the spring, the shock body itself wont move @ all. I gave up for the night and put the drivers side back to the same height as the passenger side. i just cant get the dang passenger side shock body to rotate

[RichB]

ah ok I see what your saying now.

A trick that might work is if you are trying to move the threaded body up try turning that middle ring in the up direction. It shouldn't move from it's position on the threaded body due to the top ring, but it will do the same as grabbing the threaded body and rotating it up.

If you wanted to use this method to go down you would rotate the top ring in that direction. It shouldn't move relative to the threaded body either but do the same as grabbing and rotating it down.

Does any of this make sense?

[CHIEFSMS3]

So, I got some new info today from BC. We covered everything I had questions on.

Rear configuration/ride height/preload adjustment:

Ok so as far as ride height, the lowest they are intended to drop the MS3 is about even with the stock tires. Some may like it, other may want more. If more drop is needed you can remove the lower collar and basically just have the spring sit on the perch and plastic washer. This will drop the rear about 1/2" more.

Rear preload is set pretty specifically. You have to unbolt both the spring perch and lower shock mount. Once everything is unbolted and loose you position the spring collar at your desired height and assemble the collar/spring/donut in the spring perches. Using a jack you compress the spring to the point where both the top and bottom are in contact with the upper and lower perch. While doing this grab the spring and try and wiggle it around. Keep compressing the spring by using the jack until the point where the spring does not move vertically or horizontally. Basically you are trying to bring the spring to max rebound without being loose. Once you are there throw in the bolt that attaches the lower spring perch to the knuckle. Now you raise or lower the shock mount to line up with the mounts on the knuckle. Once you get the shock mount and knuckle mount lined up, throw in the other bolt and tighten her up. Loosen the set nut on the shock body. By hand turn the shock body clockwise, which will shorten the shock. Continue this until you begin to feel some resistance. As you are turning it, more compression is applied to the spring. The resistance you feel is the proper preload on the spring. For me it was about 10 turns. The theory behind matching the height of the shock to the level established by the spring at max rebound is that in driving situtuations where max rebound is achieved you dont want to limit the available shock travel by having it too short. The same applies to compression. If its too short you will just hit the bump stops.

Also, worth noting is to periodically check the tightness of the supplied 19mm bolt that mounts the spring collar to the lower perch. I guess people have had it work itself loose or fall out. Torque it down pretty good (they didnt have any torque specs). I tightened mine to about 100ft/lbs. If yours keeps coming loose, just add some loctite.

The front is pretty self explanatory. They are supposed to come preloaded from the factory but in case you have to adjust yours they recommend a 5mm preload compression. Basically, raise the top adjustment collar until it secures the spring where it does not move vertically at all. Once its held in place rotate the second collar until it touches the top collar. While keeping the second collar at that same height, rotate the top collar to raise it 5mm above the second collar. Once you get the 5mm raise the second collar and lock the preload collars together. Then you can do what you want with the third height adjustment collar.

I ended up removing one of the collars from the rears and adjusted the shock 15 turns up from the lowest point. I also set the front preload and dropped it another 5mm. I'm still running 12/15 but may adjust it a little softer,maybe 15f/18r.

Once they settle and I get her aligned I'll post up some pics. Hope this helps.

If the spring is spinning there might not be enough pre-load on it. If the other side does not spin then you will probably need to tighten the side that the spring is spinning on.

[Wastegate13]

Okay, this was the first time ever that I did this, so I may need some clarification too. I thought to change the height you had to spin the bottom portion.

Are you saying you could just grab the threaded part and spin that? With the top perch tight and the bottom part still bolted?

Yup. No need to undo anything other than the locking ring. The entire shock body will rotate.

[mrjoshyman]

ah ok I see what your saying now.

A trick that might work is if you are trying to move the threaded body up try turning that middle ring in the up direction. It shouldn't move from it's position on the threaded body due to the top ring, but it will do the same as grabbing the threaded body and rotating it up.

If you wanted to use this method to go down you would rotate the top ring in that direction. It shouldn't move relative to the threaded body either but do the same as grabbing and rotating it down.

Does any of this make sense?

hmmm....so i am looking to extend my shock body to increase the ride height, that means turn the shock body counter clockwise. you're telling me that if i turn the middle ring counter clockwise then the threaded shock body will rotate? i've been trying to stay away from the top 2 rings b/c im concerned im going to mess with the preload....



If the spring is spinning there might not be enough pre-load on it. If the other side does not spin then you will probably need to tighten the side that the spring is spinning on.

on the drivers side it was spinning @ first too until i was able to get a grip on the shock body in which case the spring stopped spinning. i dont think the pre load would be too low because i never changed the preload...?

[RichB]

If turning the middle ring counter clockwise would move it up based on the threads, instead of moving up it would be restricted by the top ring. Since neither of these would be able to move up on the threads by doing this, it would then rotate the whole threaded shock body in counter clockwise direction. Does that make any sense? This is really hard to explain by typing it out.

This is atleast how it is done on other coilovers. I'm not sure how it would work with the BC's since I don't have em.

[RichB]

If you are able to move just the spring without a problem you have no pre load which is bad. On an earlier post somone pointed out the preload procedure for this kit.

[Ryosuke]

Hi guys,

I'm from Singapore and I'm driving a Mazda3 using BC coilovers. Nice to meet you guys!

Been reading and following the BC postings as I have also just installed BC coilovers.

The difference is that my BC is the V1 model (Red) and does not come with the pillow mounts.

My settings are front 9 and rear 6 but mine is the sedan model 1.6. I'm using 215/45/R17 17x 7.5 rims. I'm trying to establish a good ride height. So far what I'm using is the front 590mm and rear 600mm measured from the fender gap to the bottom of the rim.

Can I ask if the original stock setting, which fender gap is bigger? Rear or front? Or is it both the same fender gap? If I'm not wrong, I think the front is 4 fingers while the rear is 4.5 fingers right?

[ericrapp]

I see no one has responded and i feel bad. All i know is the Cobb springs dropped the front more than the rear giving it a raked look which i like alot. I have Ksport coilovers with pillowball but have a structural issue with the camber adjustment in front on the Mazdaspeed 3. Sorry it is all i have.

[RichB]

I have a stock suspension and I have a 2 finger gap in the back and a 3 finger gap in the front.

Hope this helps.

[Ryosuke]

I have a stock suspension and I have a 2 finger gap in the back and a 3 finger gap in the front.

Hope this helps.

Thanks RichB.

From what I have seen in Singapore, stock suspension is 4 fingers front and rear with the front abit higher.

I have lowered my 3 to 3 fingers front and rear, measuring from the top of the fender gap to the bottom of the rim, 600mm rear, 590mm front.

Over here, due to our road conditions and our carparks are either multi stories or basement, I can't go any lower without scrapping the undercarriage or bumpers.

[808MP5]

BUMP from the dead

there's way too much confusion in this thread lol... i guess simple english instructions that came with the coilovers on adjusting the coilover height wasn't good enough...

any one still have the instructions that came with the coilovers... please scan and post :) if that's ok? if not you can pm me and i'll host it... you would think you could find the instructions on BC's website... fancy website but no where to download instructions for the ppl that forgot where the put theirs

i see ppl measuring their drop with their fingers... uh no deals... you will be able to fit more fingers under there with more negative camber... i think the proper way to measure height is by measuring the height where the bumper meets the fender or quarter panel for the rear to the Ground with a yard stick preferably... cuz it will be the same on both side if you are on a level surface and your car hasn't had any major accidents

also read ppl adjusting the spring perch... if there is one thing i remember when reading the install instructions was DO NOT ADJUST THE SPRINGS... this will change the rate unless that is what your going for but then how will the average joe measure the new rate

[ericrapp]

If the BCs are the same as my Ksport you are absolutely correct about height adjustment. It is NOT done at the spring. It is done at the sleeve. We should just snug the spring tight plus half to full turn and be done with it in front. The rears need to also be matched using the threaded sleeve to the height set at the spring lower keeps. I am sorry i do not have my installation manual as that is the best place to reference. ground to fender is probably the most consistent way to measure the difference but the Real way to set up is corner weight the car.... the Dead live on!

[STRICK-]

The instructions that came with my BCs were written in the worst broken english ever. The installationis simple w/ a simple knowledge of suspension.

Yes- the ride height in the front are controlled by the sleeved body of the bottom of the mcphearson style setup up there. The rears ride height is controlled by adjusting a "spring perch" that supports the base of where the spring sits. For height purposes. Since the strut sits outside of the spring back there. There is also an adjustment for the length of your strut in the rear too.

[ericrapp]

How hard were the fronts to put in? And did you make many height adjustments? How hard was that to do. the rear seem pretty easy to install and adjust. I have the Cobb springs in now which advertises a 1" lowering and after a long time settling i would say thats about right. I am going for for 3/4" more in front and 1/2" in rear as a starting point, Thanks Strick

[m.o.b.s.]

The front install is easy enough...

wheel off
endlinks off
ABS clip
3 bolts at the top
1 bolt on bottom
strut out

It's been a while, but I think I did the 5mm preload. with 4-5 threads between the bottom and middle ring I have <1-finger gap.

Front camber - I moved the allen screws one position farther out and slid the strut all the way out and I think it's about 1 degree negative.

Height adjustment - I can jack up the front and there's enough room (for me) to squeeze my arms in there with the two wrenches to make adjustments.

BTW, I have regular 3 with stock 17s

[ericrapp]

You sure make it sound easy. Thanks for the help!
Quick question did you set the negative camber in before the install? I am concerned that the speed 3 does not have much room to slide the shock tower (Topside) on the camber plate. the hole in our fender wher it poke through is small and definitely not enough to allow full negative camber! that sucks i think

[m.o.b.s.]

Ha...forgot about that part.

...and I was going for as close to zero as possible (struts slid AWAY from the engine)

I ground out the hole with a RotoZip and carbide bit...enough to gain access to the adjusting screws and to allow for the knob to slide away from the engine. When I was done, I found that I really just needed to remove about 1/4-1/2 inch on the outer part of the hole to get the camber in line with the drop I was going for. 1/2 inch is probably a bit much. You can set it up for as close to zero as possible ahead of time if you're going for a 1 to 1 1/2 finger gap. Grind a bit, then hold the strut up in there (simulating the strut moving left and right as best you can) to see how much more to remove. People use hole saws to widen the entire hole, but I had a RotoZip and was determined to use it. It took a while, but worked.

Hope this was clear enough

[ericrapp]

Hey thanks,
i am going the other way. I want more negative camber in the front. The should be fine as it is working very well now. I will add the Mazdaspeed rear camber arms with the coilers that should put me just about perfect. The front will be interesting. I have been thinking on this for quite awhile and asked some young engeineers at work to help me strengthen that area if i need to remove much material! I have some very stiff spring rates up front and worry about distorting. But i will probably just go at it as you mentioned and it may not be pretty. i guess i will just have to jump in there and see what it looks like. I appreciate the helpful comments

[Mr_Boom]

Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but I've been reading through and haven't come to a clear conclusion on the best way to increase the rear ride height.

I'm running the BC coilovers with 8x18 Enkei T-Fork wheels on 225/40R18 Michelin PE2 tires. Rear fenders have been rolled. When I originally installed the coilovers I left the settings "as is" out of the box and ended up with around 7/8" drop on all 4 corners. This installation was done with mostly worn out 225/40R18 BFG Supersport A/S tires, and between the difference in lower tread depth and a more square sidewall the newer Michelin tires just barely rub when the back of the car is loaded.

So basically I am trying to figure out the best way to slightly raise the rear of the car. Should I raise the ride height of only the spring, only the shock, or both? Any help is appreciated.

[Mr_Boom]

double post

[ericrapp]

In the back it is tricky i think. They need to be matched when originally installed. But if they were then just adjust them equal turns. If it is less than a quarter inch it may not make much difference, but in theory but you want to stay in the shock's valving sweet spot.
Now take this advice with caution. I still have not mounted mine and as it is going it might not get done. again. this year. What offset are your wheels? for curiosity sake?

[Mr_Boom]

In the back it is tricky i think. They need to be matched when originally installed. But if they were then just adjust them equal turns. If it is less than a quarter inch it may not make much difference, but in theory but you want to stay in the shock's valving sweet spot.
Now take this advice with caution. I still have not mounted mine and as it is going it might not get done. again. this year. What offset are your wheels? for curiosity sake?

Wheels are 8x18 Enkei T-Fork's with a +38 offset. I slightly bumped up the shock height and added some spring compression to the rear this evening, seems to have fixed that little bit of rubbing.

[ericrapp]

Glad to hear that. How much do you think you raised her?

[meicalnissyen]

1) I run mine as close as possible to stock since I want pretty even camber wear.
2) 9 front/10 rear but recommended from SU and others are 12 front/15 rear
3) Fronts are easy just like any other setup but the rear, you'll have to unbolt the bottom of the shock, lower control arm and rear sway bar endlink and finally access the perch/spring.
4) ?

adjusting rear damping can be done from the hatch, reaching into the access holes

[Mr_Boom]

Glad to hear that. How much do you think you raised her?

The whole back ended up around 1/4" higher than before. Original drop from the BC to Stock suspension was 7/8".

[ericrapp]

I am thinking the offset on mine is 45. But i cant recall now. My intention was to buy 235/40 and go coil overs right away. I went with an 8.5 inch wheel and asked the vendor for the correct offset for my car.
I bought 225s because i chickened out. And still only have the Cobb springs installed.
It turned out the 225s have plenty of grip and am going to stay that size. so when we install the coil overs i hope i can avoid the rubbing in the rear

[Dave_The_BMXER]

Hey everyone, this is my first post here but I am on a few other Mazda boards.

Anyway I switched from Sportline/Yellows to BC's on the weekend and was pretty shocked to find that I didn't end up getting any lower. I am basically at the same height I was on sportlines (perhaps slightly higher in the rear which I am ok with)

I am on 215/45/17x7s (with 38 offset) and have a finger gap in the front and none in the rear.

I have all my collars in place currently. The back sits perfect for my tastes but the front... I wish I had a 1/2" more.

My front set up looks like this photo from earlier in the thread:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y119/mrjoshyman/photo-1.jpg

So I don't think I have any more adjust-ability would that be correct?

Would I be able to get anymore drop by decreasing the spring pre load slightly?

Do these coil overs settle some? Should I wait a few days?

This is my first set of coil overs so sorry for the 100 questions

Thanks in advance.

(Height aside these perform so much better than my sportlines, far less complaining from the GF)

Here is/was my sportline drop for reference
http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/IMG_0374-5x7wm.jpg

[m.o.b.s.]

You could INCREASE preload by tightening the spring a little more to thread the shock body in further. I actually talked to BC today and re-confirmed the 5mm preload with them. Mine should be at least that much. My front springs with the car in the air measure 6 3/4". I don't see how 1/2 inch more could be detrimental, but your girl may complain about a stiffer ride (not always a bad thing).

Does anyone else have a measurement of their spring installed with no weight on it?

Side note for everyone...

I've developed a bongy popping noise at the top of the front right spring cause by slight horizontal shifts in the spring when turning at slow speeds...hopefully not caused by too light of a preload. Inserting little pieces of rubber to pad the inner diameter of the top of the spring kills the noise, but they get chewed up or shift within a day. BC is sending me two plastic rings with "sleeves" like the ones at the bottom of the front springs. This should make everything better.

[Dave_The_BMXER]

Funny, I was just emailing BC too and they said that the pre load should be set at 5-8mm from the factory.

I figure I will try and increase the pre load a bit and try to thread in a little bit more.

However BC said I can order shorter springs which I just might do. Going to take some pictures and measurements this week I will post them here as well for you gurus.

I think I just opened up a bag of worms lol.

[m.o.b.s.]

Just take measurements of spring length, exposed threads between the collars, etc., or whatever you need to do to return it to a specific setting in case you botch something. I quite enjoy messing with my setup, but I know exactly what to do to undo it if I don't like it.

[Wastegate13]

Someone had inquired about shorter springs a while back and was told that they (BC) had no intention of producing shorter springs. I would love to get another inch out of the front of mine. I'm happy with the rear but I wanna tuck the front tires.

[Dave_The_BMXER]

Below is what BC said to me.

"Dave
If all the rings are touching then you have it at its max drop. On the Mazda 3 the manufacture design does limit the drop. However if you want to go w a 170mm spring instead of a 180mm spring it would bring you down about .40" The preload should not have needed to be adjusted if so it should only have 5mm-8mm of preload. Settling in the spring will occur but depends on how aggressive your driving style is. It can take days to wks. If you decide to purchase the shorter springs they are $100 a pair and a $15 flat rate charge with in the 48 states. If you need further assistance please let us know.
Thanks
Mike "


and

Shipping to Canada USPS flat rate is $33 and the settling shouldn't be more than .25" The 170mm would be intended to keep you at a 7k spring rate but if you want to go to a 160mm it will give you about .75" but it would be an 8k spring. I would check the lower mount though to see how much further you have before the cartridge bottoms out in it before purchasing either.
Thanks
Mike

I am going to be taking some measurements tomorrow/familiarizing myself with adjustments and will let you guys know if I end up ordering the shorter spring (I probably will)

[Wastegate13]

Looks like I'll be purchasing some new front springs.......

[Dave_The_BMXER]

You and me both :D How much of a fender gap do you have up front?

[MM BOOST]

This is just nuts...I had mine 2 threads from all the way down and could barely get a finger in between tire and fender...and I had to put 5mm spacers on cause my coilover collars were sitting ON my tire...I don't see how you guys are wanting to go lower...nuts.

[Wastegate13]

This is just nuts...I had mine 2 threads from all the way down and could barely get a finger in between tire and fender...and I had to put 5mm spacers on cause my coilover collars were sitting ON my tire...I don't see how you guys are wanting to go lower...nuts.

Then you obviously don't have camber plates. In talks with other BC owners I've learned that the non-camber plate fronts are able to tuck the front tires pretty easily. Here's mine all the way down front and rear.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v133/Wastegate13/IMG_0279.jpg

[Dave_The_BMXER]

Ya dude slightly more in the front for you would look sick.

For me being on 17s I can fit my hand flat above my tire in the front but not the rear.. me now likey.

I did not know they were available without camber plates...

[MM BOOST]

I definitely have camber plates, I just got mine back in October. Idk, I had to RAISE my car up to be able to drive it daily cause it was so low. My damn rally armor mud flaps were gettin stuck on speed bumps, train tracks, entrances, etc. I'm not sure what it is, but if I went any lower, I am pretty sure my tire wouldn't rotate normally lol.

[MM BOOST]

This is raised back up, rear collars removed and as low as they will go, front a few threads showing between collars:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/ARACHNO/Mobile%20Uploads/0524101630.jpg

[Wastegate13]

I definitely have camber plates, I just got mine back in October. Idk, I had to RAISE my car up to be able to drive it daily cause it was so low. My damn rally armor mud flaps were gettin stuck on speed bumps, train tracks, entrances, etc. I'm not sure what it is, but if I went any lower, I am pretty sure my tire wouldn't rotate normally lol.

Then you're roads suck. My fronts are down as far as they will go. My tires are slightly stretched so its actually a little lower than it looks, less than a single finger gap but I want the tire tucked in the front.

[MM BOOST]

understandable man...i was just commenting saying i couldn't phathom going any lower. your car is SEXY...haven't seen you posting as much as you used to, figure'd maybe you got rid of it or something. contact mad villain...he got the shorter/stiffer bc springs for his coils.

[Dave_The_BMXER]

The saga continues:

Hi Mike

I am out in the garage now and here are my findings:
The front of the car on both sides from fender to floor is 24 inches.

The gap between tire and fender is about .5 of an inch so I would like that gap gone and the fender to ground clearance to be 23.5 inches and fender to tire clearence zero.

The cartridge is way above the minimum 80mm requirement. With this information would it be advisable that I go with the 160mm spring?

Dave
Yes sorry for the delay in reply. I had one of the techs look into it and your cartridge will end up bottoming out in the lower mount and that's your first limitation. The second would be the spring. In order to make it work it would be a matter of changing the cartridge and the spring. I am going to have my R&D dept look into this and see how we can make it work. Ill get back w you tomorrow in regards to this.
Thanks
Mike

sigh...

[Dave_The_BMXER]

Dave
The springs will not do it for you it will have to be a combination of spring and cartridges. It would run you $95 each cartridge and $100 for the pair of springs. Let me know if you need further assistance.
Thanks
Mike

300 + dollars for 1 inch...

[Wastegate13]

Dave
The springs will not do it for you it will have to be a combination of spring and cartridges. It would run you $95 each cartridge and $100 for the pair of springs. Let me know if you need further assistance.
Thanks
Mike

300 + dollars for 1 inch...

Well if you are in my boat and sold your stock suspension then reacquiring that and buying another set of coilovers, then selling the BC's would run more than 300 bucks.

[Dave_The_BMXER]

I was just figuring 300 + my coilover buyin from my sportline/yellows.

Either way I will probably do it because... well... god damn cars.

[Wastegate13]

I was just figuring 300 + my coilover buyin from my sportline/yellows.

Either way I will probably do it because... well... god damn cars.

I know exactly how you feel. I've been thinking lately of selling my wheels and picking up something cheaper. Figure I need something to spend the difference on. lol

[dizzin9]

sup guys i just got mine installed yesterday. i'm surprised the rears were that low out of the box - about a finger high. reading all the comments here some people actually want it lower? the fronts are about 2 fingers high right now but i'll wait til everything settles before i make that adjustment. will post pics later.

[meicalnissyen]

Dave
The springs will not do it for you it will have to be a combination of spring and cartridges. It would run you $95 each cartridge and $100 for the pair of springs. Let me know if you need further assistance.
Thanks
Mike

300 + dollars for 1 inch...

$900 for the first 2 inches, $300 for each additional inch after that

Sounds like a bargin

I know my girl was more than willing to shell out $300 to have my deveining done

[dizzin9]

some quick pics:

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_GsVhq-_dRXQ/TCf8TCtSW9I/AAAAAAAAAFc/ujJLGAGRr38/jun27-pic1.jpg

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_GsVhq-_dRXQ/TCf8TXe-IJI/AAAAAAAAAFg/QXV0bBzO0-s/jun27-pic2.jpg

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_GsVhq-_dRXQ/TCf8TTnr-3I/AAAAAAAAAFk/rzlwFcR9Ycw/jun27-pic3.jpg

[Dave_The_BMXER]

Overnight from Japan!

"The parts will run you $290 as mentioned plus shipping. I do want to be sure you are aware these are not the entire corners just the cartridges, springs and some thinner rings. You will need to take apart the coils, its not very difficult but I just wanted to be sure you are OK with that.

If so please provide me a shipping address so that I can send you the quote.

The parts would be making their way straight to you from our overseas office so you would have them with in 2 wks from the time of payment.
Thanks"

Will post pics once everything arrives.

This is me currently:
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1059/4732193552_030005f434_b.jpg

[kar-yin]

hey guys, i just got some bc coils in the last night however, the height is too high for me out of thebox. so im going to lower it some more tomorrow. Just a quick question, what size wrench would i need for the rear shocks?

[Dave_The_BMXER]

Parts arrived and installed. Very happy

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4093/4791477555_66b763fbd7_b.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4115/4792110718_c49b9a1ec0_b.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4138/4791512683_3e72b51ba8_b.jpg

[Wastegate13]

Is that as low as the fronts will go? What are your tire sizes please.

[Dave_The_BMXER]

Is that as low as the fronts will go? What are your tire sizes please.

Ya fronts maxxed out, again lol.

215/40/17

Not tucking but I didn't want to tuck :)

[goob_os101]

Ya fronts maxxed out, again lol.

215/40/17

Not tucking but I didn't want to tuck :)


What brand and model of wheels?

[Dave_The_BMXER]

A-tech Monoblocks,

sold in North America as DAI Monza's

[Domino81]

haha thank you man, I am really happy with the BC's. I have a few more of the car and one of the lower ring I took out from the rear spring.....

Great shots. :D

[rmcat]

bump for such a great thread,I learned a lot from it and will be buying a set of BC shortly