Exhaust Manifold Install Question...

[mazdaspeeeeed]

I am trying to swap out my manifold for another stocker since my current one is cracked.

I just cant seem to figure out how to fit a wrench down in there to unbolt the manifold from the turbo.... do I have to take the whole thing out from manifold to J pipe or what?

if i cant do i will end up having to pay someone.. please help.

[blueprotegelx]

do not pay anyone to do it! i have not removed a msp mani (yet), but i would assume if you can get a crescent wrench down in there you should be fine. i just got my turbo stuff other day and i removed my turbo from the mani and i used a 12 or 14m crescent wrench to remove so it seems it would be that way as well when on car. i would remove the bolts from the head first and then the turbo that way the manifold moves a little easier and able to get the bolts from the turbo better. you'll probably need 2 crescent wrenches: one for the head of the bolt and one for the nut of the bolt unless the bolt screws into the turbo flange. i cannot recall

[BOOSTR]

Your best bet is to pull the manifold and turbo off together. Just unbolt the turbo from the exhaust, remove exhaust manifold bolts and disconnect coolant and oil lines.

You'll be able to manipulate it better that way.

[mazdaspeeeeed]

do not pay anyone to do it! i have not removed a msp mani (yet), but i would assume if you can get a crescent wrench down in there you should be fine. i just got my turbo stuff other day and i removed my turbo from the mani and i used a 12 or 14m crescent wrench to remove so it seems it would be that way as well when on car. i would remove the bolts from the head first and then the turbo that way the manifold moves a little easier and able to get the bolts from the turbo better. you'll probably need 2 crescent wrenches: one for the head of the bolt and one for the nut of the bolt unless the bolt screws into the turbo flange. i cannot recall


Your best bet is to pull the manifold and turbo off together. Just unbolt the turbo from the exhaust, remove exhaust manifold bolts and disconnect coolant and oil lines.

You'll be able to manipulate it better that way.

thanks i will take another look at it

[_Slotegé_]

I am trying to swap out my manifold for another stocker since my current one is cracked.

I just cant seem to figure out how to fit a wrench down in there to unbolt the manifold from the turbo.... do I have to take the whole thing out from manifold to J pipe or what?

if i cant do i will end up having to pay someone.. please help.


If you have never done this before it seem's like alot but, it's really not that hard....


You need to remove:

Radiator/Fans

Unbolt Coolent/Oil Feed/Return lines on the turbo

Unbolt the S-Pipe from the J-Pipe

Unbolt the manifold from the head and pull out the Turbo/Mani/S-Pipe in one piece......To get to some of the bolts on the manifold, I had to grind down a 12mm box end wrench.

DO NOT forget to prime the turbo before starting the car after swapping out the manifolds!



If you need someone to do it for you. I can take care of it for a small fee:)


Good luck!
David

[Mutmatt]

there is a write up somewhere on the site... i recently did my exhaust mani and just pulled the turbo, s pipe, and exhaust mani and swapped it... took my a night and a tiny bit of the morning cuz i needed some new bolts

[justanothermp5]

prime? what do u mean by that

[_Slotegé_]

prime? what do u mean by that
If your reply is to me what I mean is....Unplug the coil pack's, and turn the engine over for about 15-20 Seconds. Do this about 3-4 time's before you start your car.


You have to do this. To ensure that the turbo has oil in it. If, you skip this very small step you will likely blow your turbo within the first minute(s) of starting your car again....



It is something that you do not want to skip....trust me.

[mazdaspeeeeed]

in case anyone was interested or looking here are the instructions on the swap from slotege.....

Ok, You will need to:

Drain Oil/coolent

Remove intake and IC piping

Remove radiator/fans/hose's

Unbolt the 3 bolt's that hold the S/J pipe's together

while your down there, remove the oil return line 2 allen/hex keys right above the oil pan.


Unplug and take off the o2 sensor on the manifold-7/8"


take off the heat shield -10mm bolt's


Unbolt the EGR tube- 1 1/8" wrench I think...


Get a cheap 7/16" flare nut/line wrench and grind one side down untell it fit's on your oil feed line.....just unbolt that from the turbo...you will need and open end 11mm/ 7/16" also and the help of your finger's to remove this....


Unbolt,coolent line's from the turbo I think their 16mm...


Next,you need to find 1 or 2 cheap 12mm box end wrenches (a 12 point is better to use if you have them) then grind the box end down untell they fit the manifold bolt's that are giving you trouble to remove. I had to use a chisel to get one of my stock bolt's off.....


Unbolt the manifold and you should be able to pull out the mani/turbo dp in one piece....swap the turbo over to your new mani.

Reinstall everything and unplug the coil packs and turn the engine over with the key for about 10-15 seconds.Do this 3-4 time's before starting the car

Get some brake cleaner and use some compressed air to clean parts off as needed.You want to keep thing's as clean as you can when doing this.....



That about sum's it up! have fun and good luck!

[mazdaspeeeeed]

questions...

I have almost got the manifold/turbo/dp out I just need to unbolt the EGR, oil line, and the DP but I am having trouble...

the oil line on the top of the turbo has barely any room to get a wrench in there. slotege said to shave down an 11mm wrench but im not sure if that would help or not....

also the 3 bolts that connect the DP to the S pipe are not moving at all.. they are just stripping.. any suggestions?

[orng1]

It's really easy, I've done it complete with putting tools away in under an hr. Your best bet is to do it with the radiator and fans out as an assembly. That will give you the best access to the bolts. Take off the S pipe with it and the J if you have to but try to seperate that.

[_Slotegé_]

the oil line on the top of the turbo has barely any room to get a wrench in there. slotege said to shave down an 11mm wrench but im not sure if that would help or not.... Did you get a line wrench for the oil line?

They look like this:
http://www.mytoolstore.com/sk/sk03150.html

[orng1]

I think mine is a little stripped, I was able to use a 10mm brake line wrench. Worked good though.

[mazdaspeeeeed]

well job complete! motor sounds nice again yay!

Some little things that I did differently was instead of unbolting the coolant lines to the turbo I just unclamped them from the other side and pulled them out with it.

I manage to get the 3 stripped bolts on the DP off using those sockets that undo stripped bolts. they have sharp sides in them.

oh and i never could get that dang oil line off the turbo so I left it and pulled the manifold/turbo/S pipe up as far as i could and undid the last 4 bolts on the manny that way. then i made my swap. wasn't exactly easy but it worked :)

if anyone needs any help PM me.

[mightyray]

Do you have to drain the oil to take off the manifold? Will the oil lines leak everywhere if you don't or do they leak slow enough to be able to plug them up? I'm asking because i just changed my oil with full synthetic and it would be a huge waste to drain it now.

[zuku26]

I just recently figured out how to get to the rear "S" pipe bolt without removing the whole set-up... With this same concept you should be able to get to the turbo-exhaust mani bolts which would save you having to remove all the turbo stuff, and save you several hours!!

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123736856&highlight=pipe

[orng1]

Real easy, oil is not necesary but I would remove the radiator. I know it can be done with it in place but it's expensive if you break it. And it's much easier with the hoses out of the way.

[mightyray]

Thanks guys. Me and shootz took our time and it took us about 4 hours.

[jmv]

bump... i've got most of this done as far as removing the old assembly, i ran into two problems though... The EGR stud backed out of the manifold instead of the nut coming off of the stud, and i can't get the oil feed line off. I can get a regular wrench on it, but 11mm and 7/16ths both feel too big, they really seem like they'll just round it, and 10mm won't fit on. I've got a 7/16ths flare wrench that i've begun grinding down the side of to try and get it in the right position, but its not working either. Does anyone have suggestions??

[mightyray]

Did you get the box wrench? Mine fit without grinding.

[jmv]

i had a line wrench like slotege suggested... but i ended up just leaving it on and maneuvering it around like mazdaspeeeeed did.

I've got the new mani attached to the turbo and bolted up to the head.... but the egr pipe doesn't line up with the steedspeed mani. I've tried getting some leverage on it to bend it but it won't line up right to thread the nut on.... not sure what to do for this.

[Mutmatt]

you could do the ghetto fab of the ss line that some have done... not sure where the links are but there have been some talk about it before... if i wasn't clear, they replaced the original line with a new ss line for the EGR pipe

[jmv]

i managed to get it on, i had to take all but one of the studs off and maneuver the mani/turbo/s-pipe assembly to meet up with the egr, and then just pulled the egr into position by getting the bolts in there. Dunno why it was a problem with my car, but with the steedspeed mani on the car is doing great!

[oki_boy]

i used a 7/16 box end wrench for the oil feed line, but its all stripped and i cant get it off.

I ended up removing the line from the rear of the block, but i still need to get it off for replacement....

also, i cant get a wrench on the last nut holding the exhaust manifold to the turbo. the wastegate actuator arm is in the way, and one of the bolts on the wastegate bracket is blocked by the bolt for the coolant line.

any ideas?

[jmv]

you don't have to take the whole bracket off to get the wastegate actuator off. I left the bracket on, but took the wga off.

[oki_boy]

you don't have to take the whole bracket off to get the wastegate actuator off. I left the bracket on, but took the wga off. well, the bracket is also taking up the fraction of the inch that i need to turn the wrench....so it needs to come off too.

[jmv]

hmmm. I dunno what to tell you, i was fine to get mine off without taking off the bracket. (shrug)

[Metallic36]

Bumping up.. how the hell do you get to the bottom right-hand bolt on the MAM mani? I only have that one and then the upper left-hand bolt remaining. I don't have enough angle for a wrench, went out and bought some that are flexible and those suck (plus they're too wide around the end to fit into the space where the nut is).

[dandan2]

ive heard that u have to custom make a wrench to do so! im not lookin forward to my install!

[Metallic36]

I'm getting closer to removing it.. I removed the water neck to give me more room. If that damn EGR tube would just come off I wouldn't have to do all of this crap.. grrr.. Reference link: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123633958