2006+ Mazda5 Maintenance Tasks: Do It Yourself (Ongoing Thread)

[dommo_g]

Some people would rather pay the dealer or a quick change place to go through the trouble of getting the dirty stuff out, and clean stuff in. For those that would rather not trust the local Grease Monkeys, here's what you'll need to do:

What you'll need:

17mm socket
10mm socket or nut driver
Small flathead screwdriver or panel clip puller
6mm Allen wrench
Oil filter wrench, rubber strap wrench, or one of these (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/OilfilterwrenchB.gif)
Jack and stands, or ramps
Oil filter kit (Mazda part# L321 14 302 9U)
5 quarts of your favorite 5w20
Paper shop towels
Rubber gloves to make clean up easier

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange020Small.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange020Small.jpg) http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange017Small.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange017Small.jpg)

First thing to do is to get the car off the ground. I prefer ramps, but a jack with stands will do just fine. Use the proper jacking method outlined in the owners manual.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange003Small.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange003Small.jpg)

After the car is safely raised, you'll need to remove the plastic engine cover from under the engine. It is held in place by 7 10mm bolts, and 2 plastic expansion panel clips. There is also a tab/slot on each rear corner by the wheels that needs to be removed. The 10mm bolts aren't on very tight, and you may prefer to use a nut driver over the clumsiness of a ratchet on loose bolts.
There are 3 bolts along the front edge of the cover just to the rear of the bottom edge of the bumper, and 2 on the rear sides, near each wheel.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange024Large.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange024Large.jpg) http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange023Large.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange023Large.jpg) http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange029Large.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange029Large.jpg) http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange030Large.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange030Large.jpg)


The 2 expansion clips are located on each front corner of the engine cover. They are in two parts. You'll need to pry out the center to release the clip. You can use a small flatblade screwdriver and gently pry the center, moving from side to side, or you can use an interior clip remover if you have one.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange022Medium.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange022Medium.jpg) http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange021Medium.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange021Medium.jpg) http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange026Medium.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange026Medium.jpg) http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange027Medium.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange027Medium.jpg)

OK, now you're ready to drain the oil. I like to remove the oil filler cap just enough to relieve vacuum when the oil is draining, to let it drain easier and more thoroughly.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange002Small.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange002Small.jpg)

Use the 17mm socket to remove the oil pan drain plug. The drain plug faces the rear of the car.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange011Small.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange011Small.jpg)
Make sure to have a couple shop towels handy here.
Once you loosen it up with the first turn, put your socket down and loosen the rest by hand. You'll need to move it away quickly once it's out of the hole so the oil can stream steady into your drain pan. Make sure to keep an eye on the draining oil so that the stream doesn't move out of the way of your drain pan opening and start to spill on the floor. I usually let the oil drain for a little bit, to get the most out of the engine. It may be a good time for one of these:
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/th_DSC00005.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/DSC00005.jpg)

Once the oil has stopped draining, clean off the drain plug and replace it. Get it hand tight, and give it another 1/4-1/2 turn.

Use whatever tool you have to loosen the oil filter housing about 1 to 1 1/2 turns. The cartridge filter housing is spring loaded, so the goal here is to loosen it just enough to relieve spring pressure on the filter element so the oil can drain properly. Then take the 6mm Allen wrench and remove the drain plug in the middle of the filter housing. This is where the oil from the filter will drain out, so be prepared with your oil pan. Again, once it starts draining, you can leave it for a little while to drain completely. Once it finishes, there will still be some oil in the housing. Remove it from the engine, and place it upside down on your oil pan.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange012Small.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange012Small.jpg) http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange013Small.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange013Small.jpg) http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange031Medium.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange031Medium.jpg)

Remove the old filter from the housing and dispose of properly. Use shop towels to clean the inside of the housing, the drain plug, and the filter cavity on the engine. Take your new filter kit and replace both O-rings, one on the drain plug, and one on the housing. Dip your finger in a bottle of your new oil and coat the O-rings before putting them in place. A small flat head screwdriver makes getting them in place easier, but be careful not to damage them. Place the new filter element onto the housing, and push it firmly in place. Reinstall the housing to the engine, and tighten the drain plug. Torque specs are stamped on the housing.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange015Small.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange015Small.jpg) http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange032Medium.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange032Medium.jpg) http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/th_Mazda5oilchange034Medium.jpg (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dommo_g/Mazda5/Mazda5oilchange034Medium.jpg)

Use a funnel to add the the 5w20 oil to the engine. Most people are finding that the dipstick will show full after adding between 4 and 4.5 quarts. The manual calls for 4.3 when changing the filter. With most cars, I don't use a funnel, but if you spill oil, you'll have to go through the hassle of removing the top engine cover to clean it up.
Tighten the filler cap, close the hood, and start the engine. Let it run for about a minute then shut it off. Check for leaks under the car. You rock, so there should be none.
Replace the lower cover using the reverse of the removal process. Lower your car from the ramps or jack stands.

Finished! Now just decide whether you ever want to do this again!

[ladygrey]

Holy crap, how long did it take? I think I'll pay the $29.95 at the dealership for now. Since I charge $80 - $100/hr for my time when I do consulting work that looks like an awfully expensive oil change if I do it myself. Plus I'd probably drop a nut and loose it or tear a gasket.

[bulwnkl]

Dommo_g, are you absolutely sure the proper wrench is the 75.6mm (aka 3-inch) one? I saw a post on another board which originally identified it as 74 or 75mm, but later corrected to say the actual diameter was 72mm. I haven't taken my calipers to the housing. If this is definitely the right one, I'll just go to the local auto parts stores with my calipers and get the $2 plastic version of that wrench instead of the $12 Mazda version. Thanks for the great write-up!

[mazdadude]

Nice post Dommo_g! This will be a big help to other DIY'ers. Up until my back injury, I always maintained my cars myself, from oil changes to engine swaps.

However this looks to be a real pain in the you-know-what to do.

Once you factor in the mess, and the old oil and filter disposal, makes the $29.99 dealer change sound like a real bargain! (crazy)

Keep Zooming!

[silverm5]

Yeah, on second thought, think I'll be taking it to the dealer. Seems way too much hassle. My local dealer with change the oil and wash it for only $19.95.

[Stormtrooper77]

Sounds like a standard oil change...should take no more than a half hour.

[dommo_g]

Yeah, it took me longer to write this up than to actually change the oil. I'm using Mobil1, which is $6 per quart. I'm guessing the dealer would charge me close to $50 for a synthetic oil change. Plus, I'm the type of person that prefers to do as much of my own work as I can on my own.

As far as the filter wrench, I haven't actually used one, but all indications are it's the same wrench for all 2.3l motors, which would be the one pictured. I'm going to buy one, and if it's not correct, I'll post up the info and change the write up.

[was98strat]

I still think I'd have the dealer do it. By the time an oil change is due, you are also ready for a tire rotation and other lubrications and inspections. Just seems like alot of wor Some the dealer should do! Roating my tires is more work than I want to do! besides I don;t have 4 jack stands (yet!)

[2cam16]

This is going to be fun! I LOVE working on my cars. Something new for me, the filter type. :)

[boytoys]

Great write up !! Thanks for the information and time to share all these information with us..

[MD5]

I've been taking my 5 to a friend with a shop. I get to use a lift which makes it soooo easy.

I'm also going to fabricate a hole in the bottom cover so I don't have to remove it anymore.

Matt

[opus]

Dommo, thanks a million for the instructions and pics :). One small item though, the manual states 4.5 qts with a filter and oil change, not 5 qts. I have always been told that too much oil is way worse than too little (ughdance)
Opus

[zen3278]

I will be using a LiquiVac to pump the oil out. Do I still have to remove the bottom engine cover to change the oil filter?

[opus]

Zen - yep you will have to still remove the cover. No one is yet to explain why they put a hole in the cover roughly two inches bigger in diameter than the filter, but put it off to the side and not under the filter. I would love to hear an explination for this one if anyone has come across it.

[wongpres]

Zen - yep you will have to still remove the cover. No one is yet to explain why they put a hole in the cover roughly two inches bigger in diameter than the filter, but put it off to the side and not under the filter. I would love to hear an explination for this one if anyone has come across it.

From M-tips newsletter:

"Some customers may ask why the access hole on the splash shield
does not line up directly under the oil filter for serviceability.

The reason for the hole is for oil leak visual checks by plant
personnel on the plant assembly line, not for oil filter removal."

[opus]

Not to be snide, but wouldn't they be able to check for leaks just as well if the hole was directly under the filter, sounds like a BS excuse for an engineering foul up. Or maybe it is just my naturally pesimistic nature. (glare)

[zr27]

Great DIY info! Thanks for the terrific detailed pictures. Just bought my 5 and I usually like working on my own car. Not sure if I will on this one! Did you see a post on changing the filter type to a spin-on on a 6 forum? Do you think this would apply to this engine?

I would be interested in your thoughts....

[2cam16]

Dommo_g, are you absolutely sure the proper wrench is the 75.6mm (aka 3-inch) one? I saw a post on another board which originally identified it as 74 or 75mm, but later corrected to say the actual diameter was 72mm. I haven't taken my calipers to the housing. If this is definitely the right one, I'll just go to the local auto parts stores with my calipers and get the $2 plastic version of that wrench instead of the $12 Mazda version. Thanks for the great write-up!
Bulwnkl,
Any update on this ? I'm about to do a change and don't really want to pay the Mazda price for the wrench. I'd rather go to the local auto parts store.
thanks

[opus]

Bulwnkl,
Any update on this ? I'm about to do a change and don't really want to pay the Mazda price for the wrench. I'd rather go to the local auto parts store.
thanks

The one from the auto parts store will work just fine. I think it is one of the best sham jobs I've seen recently. Yes this "magic" wrench remove the filter without causing it to go up in flames!!!! They even had me feeling a little nervous about doing the job :)

[Medicman]

Could one not just cut a round hole under the oil filter to save some time ?
make it a little larger than the size of the filter ?
Enought space to tighten/loosen the filter with the tool ?

[timur]

Could one not just cut a round hole under the oil filter to save some time ?
make it a little larger than the size of the filter ?
Enought space to tighten/loosen the filter with the tool ?
Maybe, but removing the plastic guard panel is quick an easy. With a small powered screwdriver, it takes less than a minute, and it gives you access the entire underside of the engine.

Also, the whole you would need to cut out would have to be quite large, and I think it would expose the oil filter to dirt from the road.

[dommo_g]

The hole wouldn't have to be that big, but what about draining the oil from the pan, you would also have to put a hole there, and the oil doesn't stream out in a small diameter, it moves as it's finishing draining. You'd also have to cut a big hole in the spot where the drain plug is.

[Medicman]

Yup.. you guys are right.. forget the hole !

[bulwnkl]

Bulwnkl,
Any update on this ? I'm about to do a change and don't really want to pay the Mazda price for the wrench. I'd rather go to the local auto parts store.
thanks

Sorry, Rob. A whole lotta stuff has happened this year and I've only been on the board twice since I posted that. In any event, no, I don't have the calipered spec for the cap. I did try to reach up through the hole with them to measure some time back in the summer, but I can't be confident I measured correctly. My measurement was roughly 71mm, IIRC, but it's been quite a while. I do remember specifically going to the auto parts stores to look for those cap wrenches and not finding one within several millimeters of what I had measured. However, that could have just been a consequence of living in Idaho! I have no facility to bring the car inside these days, and it's -18F this AM so I'm not excited about tearing into things. ;)

I'll be able to measure for certain next oil change, which will likely be in late February, or sooner if we can get into a house.

[2cam16]

No problem, man. I bought one at Kragen's but not sure if it's the correct size. I'll find out when I do the change.

[2cam16]

Did my oil change today and installed a Fumoto Valve too. Let me tell you, this is the messiest oil change I've done. I thought our Odyssey was bad, but this filter tops it all ! Why oh why Mazda/Ford ?!# All in all it was easy except for the messy filter.
Here are some pics including the filter wrench I bought ( I guessed the size) which was a PERFECT fit.
Fumoto Valve
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v683/Hachini/DSCN0372.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v683/Hachini/DSCN0370.jpg
Wrench Top
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v683/Hachini/DSCN0373.jpg
Wrench Inside
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v683/Hachini/DSCN0375.jpg

[diogenes]

The one thing I find messiest about changing the 5's oil is that, because the oil drain hole is positioned sideways (at 90 degrees to the ground) and the 5W20 oil is thin, when I open the drain the oil fires sideways right over the top of my drain pan. I mean it goes sideways about 18 to 24 inches at first, which I never seem to remember when I'm setting the pan under the car.

Would a Fumoto valve help direct the oil down instead of sideways?

[bulwnkl]

The one thing I find messiest about changing the 5's oil is that, because the oil drain hole is positioned sideways (at 90 degrees to the ground) and the 5W20 oil is thin, when I open the drain the oil fires sideways right over the top of my drain pan. I mean it goes sideways about 18 to 24 inches at first, which I never seem to remember when I'm setting the pan under the car.

Would a Fumoto valve help direct the oil down instead of sideways?

Yes!

[bulwnkl]

FYI all--

The filter housing is 74mm diameter as measured by my calipers.

[babelbox]

Did my oil change today and installed a Fumoto Valve too. Let me tell you, this is the messiest oil change I've done. I thought our Odyssey was bad, but this filter tops it all ! Why oh why Mazda/Ford ?!# All in all it was easy except for the messy filter.


Did you bought your valve at FUMOTOVALVE.COM? What type of valve did you use? Did you have to install a ADP106 adapter for your Fumoto valve?

[2cam16]

Did you bought your valve at FUMOTOVALVE.COM? What type of valve did you use? Did you have to install a ADP106 adapter for your Fumoto valve?
Yes bought it direct from them. I asked which is for the 5 and they told me the same as the 3 so that's what I ordered.Yes, the adapter is here in this pic (red arrow). You need it to clear the "bump" in the oil pan:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v683/Hachini/DSCN0369-arrow.jpg

[babelbox]

The M5 just reached 5K miles and I was debating whether to bring it to the dealer for an oil change or do it myself. My first impression of the writeup below was it's going to be a little difficult and will be time consuming. After mustering up some courage, I finally decided to change the oil myself. And let me tell you, it's not hard as it seems. I just followed the instructions below. The plastic under the engine was easy to remove and replace. I also used a 74/76 mm, 14 flute oil filter wrench which fit perfectly. I bought it at Advance Auto store for $3.99. The only time consuming was the actual draining of the oil. I switched to Full Synthetic Oil (Mobil 1). Thanks to dommo g for the excellent writeup. I can't wait till the car reaches 10k, so I can do it again.

http://img2.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/th.fc7e8fa84b.jpg (http://img2.freeimagehosting.net/image.php?fc7e8fa84b.jpg)

[07MZ5SA]

Mobil 1 is good for 7.5K OCI minium.

[MFive]

Thanks for the DIY instructions. Just changed my oil last week, Mobil1 5W-20 and a Fram filter. There was a $5 rebate here (http://www.framoilchange.com/index.html) which I cashed in on.

[slvrsleeper]

Does anyone know if the K&N filter for the catridge system has become available yet? I have looked all over the internet and no one seems to have any idea what I am talking about. Part # is HP7013 I believe.

[bulwnkl]

They list it on their site but I haven't seen one in person anywhere yet (though I do live in a place where things may arrive a little later than everywhere else).

[slvrsleeper]

My lcal Advance can get it in for me but they want 18$$ bucks for it! Yikes, I'd rather have a half dozen Purolators for the same money. I figure if I can find it on www.FilterssocheapOPECwillgobrokeovernight.com I'd buy them, otherwise, I'll stick with what I can get.

[mountjonas]

looks like i'm going to have to start doing my oil changes now. i dropped off my wife's 5 at the valvoline quick lube by our house (yeah, yeah, i know...) and they get 10 minutes in and say they don't have the right tools to do it. (isn't the mazda3 the same engine and filter setup that's been around since 2003?? whatever) so i go home. this morning my wife went out and says there's a puddle of oil under her car now. yup. i'm never taking my car there again. great write up. let's hope a rat-monkey like myself can actually do this.

[slvrsleeper]

Some additional tips to the write up that may help a first timer. 1. Use the correct 6mm Allen wrench on the drain plug at the bottom of the filter housing. Even if it means a trip to Lowes to buy one. That plug is made of baby soft aluminum and will round out if you look at it funny. 2. Keep a second oil catch pan handy to catch the drain-off from the filter after you remove it, there is like a half quart of oil inside that baby that won't come out through the oilpan. Good luck!

[monsta]

And an additional note... :)

If you wipe out the inside of the filter housing make sure you put some fresh oil on the edge where the O-ring will sit. I found that putting on the o_ring sometimes isn't enough and will cause he O-ring to get all screwed up when you tighten the cap down the last 1/4 turn. I use NAPA Gold filters so maybe the O-ring needs more "lube". :)

I also don't drain the oil filter housing first. I just get oil on my hands instead. Last thing I wanna do it strip that Allen head out!

[Maxxpwr]

we seriously have a how to on this...

[5phreak]

i forgot to thank the OP for this thread. It was very helpful when I did my cars second oil change (first one was a dealer freebie). Cheers to you sir.

[PGCist]

Many thanks again for this thread. I did my first oil change weekend and it was MUCH easier than expected. The oil had been in the car since February 2007!

One thing I noticed was the oil pan crush ring - it didn't seem all that "crushed" when I replaced it. My '06 Forester needs a new crush ring at each oil change and I usually have to pry the old one off w/ a sharp object. Anyone else replace the crush ring on their 5?

[5phreak]

... a new addition: put white grease on the screws that hold the plastic shield on. They might fill up with salt and muck and seize up like two of mine did, making it really difficult to remove. If you crank on them the captured nut breaks free from the clip and you have to get to other side of the plastic shield to hold the nut with a 10 mm wrench.

[07MZ5SA]

Anyone else replace the crush ring on their 5?

Every time. It's part of the package I think.

[bulwnkl]

... a new addition: put white grease on the screws that hold the plastic shield on. They might fill up with salt and muck and seize up like two of mine did, making it really difficult to remove. If you crank on them the captured nut breaks free from the clip and you have to get to other side of the plastic shield to hold the nut with a 10 mm wrench.

White grease before you screw them in, you mean? Or after they're in and tight? This seems like a handy idea if you can keep the threads clear. I wonder whether, around here, it'll be more helpful against winter sand and salt, or more harmful attracting summer dust, dirt, and sand thus clogging the threads...?

[5phreak]

White grease before you screw them in, you mean? Or after they're in and tight? This seems like a handy idea if you can keep the threads clear. I wonder whether, around here, it'll be more helpful against winter sand and salt, or more harmful attracting summer dust, dirt, and sand thus clogging the threads...?

i sprayed the screws with white grease before putting them back in.

[Rivman]

A little wheel bearing grease on the threads, (before you reinstal them) will do the same thing, and minimize corrosion. For those of us that have no choice, and must endure the 'joys' of severe winter climates !

[bulwnkl]

Well, I was too late. Changed the oil Friday night before leaving the next AM to the ALMS race, and one's stuck. So stuck that I ended up breaking a chunk out of the plastic belly pan. >:(

[5phreak]

^^ don't you hate it when that happens?

[bulwnkl]

Why yes... yes I do. Plus, the plastic in that whole area is so floppy that I STILL can't get the screw out. It's just gonna have to run this way. If that belly pan flops down and gets ripped completely off... well, what can you do?

[jeebusm3]

just changed the oil this weekend. The amount of bolts on the underbody plastic is just silly. You would think that manufacturers would make oil changes less complicated since it's something you have to do so often. Japanese car makers never do it right. All my german cars have easy and fast oil change procedures that don't even get your hands dirty. At least Mazda didn't put the oil filter somewhere totally inaccessible, but it could have been better thought out.

[5phreak]

^^ it's a drag for sure. hardest oil change car i've ever had.

[jeebusm3]

^^ it's a drag for sure. hardest oil change car i've ever had.

I wouldn't call it the hardest. Because some japanese cars I've had, have oil filters behind the motor, in a place where it's almost possible (but not quite) to reach from the top. And yet, it's still a royal PITA to reach from the bottom, and it's completely impossible to see so you are doing everything by feel, hoping you are threading the new filter on correctly, etc.

I mostly thought it was just a nuisance to remove the plastic underbelly just for the filter change. It still only took me 30 mins start to finish. Should take less next time.

[5phreak]

^^ i can't do mine in 30 mins. But that might be partly because I drink beer while doing it.

[xgabriel]

Great thread! Thanks for this. I just bought my 5 a few months ago and it is time to do it's first oil change. Do I have to buy the filter kit from Mazda or do the aftermarket companies make them and sell them at the local auto parts store?

[rweatherford]

I found Ford filters at WalMart for less than $4. Fram was near $8 and didn't look as good to me. The Motorcraft filter has a plastic support inside that the Fram does not use.

[07MZ5SA]

Japanese car makers never do it right. All my german cars have easy and fast oil change procedures that don't even get your hands dirty.

That's because Ford owns Mazda.

[xgabriel]

Just did the very first oil change on my 2008 Mazda5 GT, and it was remarkably easy thanks to this thread!!! I'm used to doing my own oil changes on all my cars past and present, but if it wasn't for this thread I would have been left with some questions not easily answered. Thanks again!

[xgabriel]

FYI all--

The filter housing is 74mm diameter as measured by my calipers.

So is the mazda filter wrench (part# AKS75140) specified in the OP the right tool for the job or not? (uhm)

[rweatherford]

I don't know but I need something besides what I used because I almost broke the plastic cover trying to get it off!

[jeebusm3]

So is the mazda filter wrench (part# AKS75140) specified in the OP the right tool for the job or not? (uhm)

I dunno, but you could always do what I do and buy the 3 main filter wrench sizes and an adjustable one from autozone. Total cost is like $15 and you can basically change any car's oil.

[xgabriel]

I dunno, but you could always do what I do and buy the 3 main filter wrench sizes and an adjustable one from autozone. Total cost is like $15 and you can basically change any car's oil.

I got the adjustable one to do the first oil change, but it wasn't as easy as an appropriately sized filter wrench would be.

[jeebusm3]

I got the adjustable one to do the first oil change, but it wasn't as easy as an appropriately sized filter wrench would be.

that's why I have the collection of sized ones too. The adjustable is only good for rare occasions.

[islandreamer]

So is the mazda filter wrench (part# AKS75140) specified in the OP the right tool for the job or not? (uhm)

Thanks to everyone for this great thread. I'll be doing my change soon. Advance Auto has this Ampro 74/76 mm filter for about 5 bucks which I'll be trying. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=APO&MfrPartNumber=T70401A250&CategoryCode=3401A(usa)

[xgabriel]

Thanks to everyone for this great thread. I'll be doing my change soon. Advance Auto has this Ampro 74/76 mm filter for about 5 bucks which I'll be trying. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=APO&MfrPartNumber=T70401A250&CategoryCode=3401A(usa)

Please let me know how it works out for you!

[2ride4life]

Thanks to the OP!!!

Just finished my first oil change and this DIY made the procedure painless.

Just to confirm, the #7 oil filter wrench that OP used does work, but it seems to have a little bit too much play. I guess the upside is that one can't over-tighten the cap because it seems like the wrench will eventually slip.

Now just have to send in the oil to Blackstone to see how the factory fill held up to the first OCI.

[islandreamer]

Please let me know how it works out for you!

Finally got the process done. Use Castrol Syntec Blend (36,340 miles) 5w-20 and K & N engine oil filter (special order by Advance Auto for $10 bucks and change). The 74/76 mm Ampro cup wrench did not work for me. It slips. Ended up using channel lock pliers which was much easier. Since I love taking out the splash guard anyway (makes me check other sections for leaks/potential damage), channel lock pliers works fine. Just place a piece of cloth on the grip area for a better bite. No crush ring on the oil filter kit but I checked around the area after a week of driving and no signs of oil sippage. Torqued the oil filter housing to hand tight and no leaks there either. Thanks you all for this thread.

[MD5]

I just used a cutter and fabricated a hole in the splash guard to make easy access.

I did find out that you can buy the Motorcraft filter at Walmart (FL2017B) for about $3.69 and the Fram equivelent (I believe the CH95??) is about $8.89.

Since Ford and Mazda are related, I went with the Motorcraft and my usual Mobil1 5W20.

[dommo_g]

Thanks to everyone for any updates or corrections to this how-to

[DaleNixon]

So is this procedure pretty much exactly the same for a Mazdaspeed3? I've got my box of OEM filters, filter wrench, and 6 qts. of Pennzoil Platinum on the way. Gonna strap on the goggles and get to it this weekend! (breakn)

[dommo_g]

Yep...same procedure for the Speed3.

[DaleNixon]

Thanks!

[bulwnkl]

So is the mazda filter wrench (part# AKS75140) specified in the OP the right tool for the job or not? (uhm)

I have the OEM tool now, and as someone posted fairly recently: Yes, the OEM tool listed is the correct one. It's a little loose (nominally 1.5mm bigger, IIRC?), but not as though it won't grip it or anything. It did a whole lot better last weekend than my previous method of stuffing a bunch of shop towels inside a too-big filter wrench!

[07MZ5SA]

No problem with OEM filter wrench.

[PGCist]

OEM filter wrench is the way to go. No problems so far. Anyone cracked the plastic filter housing yet? I've noticed a few online retailers are selling them.

[rweatherford]

Mine poped like it cracked (I'm sure it did somewhere) but I couldn't find anything and it doesn't leak. Perhaps we should have a link to the replacement parts in this thread?

[PGCist]

Here's two vendor links:

http://www.mazdastuff.com/product.cfm?ProductID=2876

http://www.finishlineperformance.com/store/home.php?cat=341

I've had the luxury of changing my oil when the outside temp is >0°C, so no housing cracks yet.

[Neil B]

I just grabbed the housing and he-manned it off there. Don't need no stinkin' filter wrench:D

[bulwnkl]

Mazda P/N for the 5's oil filter 'kit' (meaning, filter element and o-rings only):

L321-14-302-9U

The part number listed in the link above (L321-14-300A-9U) is for the whole assembly (filter, o-rings, inner cage, drain plugn and housing), and it's 2-3 times the money.

[rweatherford]

I just grabbed the housing and he-manned it off there. Don't need no stinkin' filter wrench:D

Unfortunately mine was he-manned ON, WITH a filter wrench...... (enguard)

[DaleNixon]

How do you dispose of an oil filter properly? I brought my used oil to Autozone, but I'm not sure what to do with the filter.

BTW thanks OP for posting this howto. I changed my oil today... first oil change I've ever done in my life!

[rweatherford]

I changed my oil today... first oil change I've ever done in my life!

And so the modding begins..... Before you know it you'll be getting a turbo manifold..... (rtfm)

[jonyblaze87]

honestly if you guys have one and dont go crazy with it a normal pipe wrench (monkey wrench) works just fine and has not messed up the plstic housing on my car, yet it gives me the extra lil leverage i need to get the cap off.

currently im running ROYAL PURPLE 5W-20 and a mazda filter.

[bbear]

Why yes... yes I do. Plus, the plastic in that whole area is so floppy that I STILL can't get the screw out. It's just gonna have to run this way. If that belly pan flops down and gets ripped completely off... well, what can you do?

Duct Tape to the rescue.

[bulwnkl]

:p

[PGCist]

jonyblaze87 - I'm running the same oil in my car. Good stuff. I bought a case of it online before their prices skyrocketed. The local Wal-Mart stopped carrying it too. How much did you pay per qt?

[simonnyc]

I thought it would be helpful/useful if we all pooled our resources together and listed what maintenance items we do ourselves rather than taking into a dealership/service station for. Some are obvious (like refilling wiper fluid, changing wipers) but others are not (changing oil, transmission fluid).

I am pretty ignorant when it comes to maintaining my car myself so anything would help. Thanks.

How to change oil?

How to change transmission fluid? How often?

How to change steering fluid? How often?

[bulwnkl]

You mean just a list of what we do ourselves, or a How-To for them? I think the How-To thing is a good idea. I'm sure that would be very useful for many people.

The changing your own oil (engine oil) one is just a few topics down in this very sub-forum.

[rweatherford]

I will soon be changing/cleaning the interior air system filter. I purchased a new one in case the old one is really dirty. I don't think it will be too hard. The filters were about $25 for the pair. I'll try to take pictures. Looks like you just take a cover off and then the filters slide out and you slide the new ones in one at a time. I guess the hole is only big enough to slide one in at a time.

My list of things I can do would be a little more than most on the forum so perhaps we should start a wish list instead?

I have done the oil change, tire rotation, transmission drain and fill and a few other little things already. It's nice to have a car you don't have to work on very much. (I just repair stuff at work.)

[coolmazda5]

All right guys, stickied the thread and changed the title a little. It is now up to you to post some valuable stuff :D

I would suggest to post regular maintenance tasks only, not enhancements or fixes as it will lose its purpose.

Any comments, please let me know

[skyhawk]

These cannot be found in workshop manual.


http://users.accesscomm.ca/gerryc/mazda5_001/fbbslide/m/PICT0003.JPG


There is more at http://users.accesscomm.ca/gerryc/mazda5_001


BTW, when you check your mazda5 under belly, please let me know if mine is missing something.

[coolmazda5]

cool

Bump:
I forgot to mention that if you see other maintenance threads already posted valuable I can merge them here as well (glare)

[Heat]

When you do your own oil changes, be sure to keep receipts as well as dates / mileage of when the changes were done, at least for the first three years / 36,000 miles. Just in case you need warranty work done; they may not ask for it but it’s better to be safe than sorry.

I need to pick up some oil changing supplies. Where can I find the best price on the Mazda OEM filters in bulk (8 or 10 filters) as well as the crush washers? I might as well buy a replacement plastic housing and an OEM filter wrench while I’m at it.

[red headz]

Heat -

try here: http://www.mazdaparts.org/genuine-mazda-oilfilter.html

michael.

[igortxi]

Hey there. I have a question. I'm leasing a mazda 5 07 with the intention of buying it at the end. Now every time I bring the car to do the service appointment I receive bills of $200 and $300 for a simple 6 months inspectio or whatever.
Last week I went to midas and asked for prices and I was realy surpriised to notice that for example,to change the tires at Mazda it costed me $120 while at mazda is $60. The oil change (5W20) at mazda is costing me $80 while at midas is only 49 with the courtesy package included.
Now my question is ,since the car is under leasing, am I obliged to do the service appointments every 6 months at the dealership or can I just do them at midas and keep the bills just in case. Will this void the warranty???(I have also the extended warranty!!! this suckers got me good!!).
I use the car mostly to go to to work and an occasional trip down to the states to surf (I live in Montreal)
Thanks in advance for your help

[was98strat]

Hey there. I have a question. I'm leasing a mazda 5 07 with the intention of buying it at the end. Now every time I bring the car to do the service appointment I receive bills of $200 and $300 for a simple 6 months inspectio or whatever.
Last week I went to midas and asked for prices and I was realy surpriised to notice that for example,to change the tires at Mazda it costed me $120 while at mazda is $60. The oil change (5W20) at mazda is costing me $80 while at midas is only 49 with the courtesy package included.
Now my question is ,since the car is under leasing, am I obliged to do the service appointments every 6 months at the dealership or can I just do them at midas and keep the bills just in case. Will this void the warranty???(I have also the extended warranty!!! this suckers got me good!!).
I use the car mostly to go to to work and an occasional trip down to the states to surf (I live in Montreal)
Thanks in advance for your help

(wow) thats crazy pricing! most of my servicings (at the dealer) rune around $50. My last one (the 72,000km AND 74,000km Oil change) cost a grant total of $359 including new front brake pads! What kind of work are you having done that is costing $2-300 per visit?

The Oil change should only cost $50, at $80 are you asking them to use Full Synthetic? $120 to change the tires could be pretty expensive depending on what you mean by "change tires" if they are rotating them the nit should only cost $12 or so (I have have them do it at each oil change, otherwise my oil change bill would only be $34!!) If they are switching between summer and winter tires on the same rim (bad idea by the way!) then it should only be around 50-60 to do all 4 tires. I think you're wither having more servicing done than needed or getting a bit ripped off!

[igortxi]

This is what they did:
Change oil
Change filter
Verify lights and honk
Check and rotate tires
Check the windshield wipers
Check the level on the automatic transmission (even though I have a standard)
Check for leaks on cluthc, brakes,steering wheel
Check air filter
Lubrify locks
Check the wheel cilinders,
Cleaning lubrification and adjustment of the brakes
Lubrify hubs and wheels
Check air conditioning
Check the wheel rotule
Check suspension and direction
According to them this is recommended by manufacturer
All this cost $151.56 CAD + taxes
Then I instaled and blanced the winter tires and for that they charged me $99.95+taxes.
Well that was the last service and I paid $317.42 which seems to me a bit excessive.
I called them and they told me that my nest service should be less expensive cause the'll be doing less things to the car but the truth is that the first service I paid $89, the second $127, the third317.42...god knows up to where this is going to go, that's why my question:can I just simply ignore this by yearly checkups and just do them at my local garage???
Thanks again

[FLOODED5]

Damn plant personnel. Stickin it to us again!

[vt_miata]

Is 'lubify' a real word?

[dfskinner]

sounds like the cost of leasing has gone up....... I leased a car way back in 1992, I'll never do that again....... you should check your lease to see what you're suppose to be paying for?....... it looks like Mazda may be taking you for a ride..... if it's a lease vehicle, Mazada is responsible for all the maint or they should be..... you don't own the vehicle, they do....... check your paperwork......

Thanks for starting this thread...... did my oil change in the driveway in about 20 mins, cost $15.00.... and a little of my time..... advance auto oil change special......

[Heat]

Well, just did my first oil change at just under 5,000 miles. Went with Mobil 1 synthetic.

Removing and reinstalling the splash guard isn't too bad, adds maybe five or ten minutes to the job.

Anyway, the picture with the tire on the ramp - my ramps are a little too high for the Mazda5, the ramps were hitting the bumper before the tire could ride up on them. So I cut the 2x4's as shown, the Mazda5 now rides onto that first, then onto the ramp without the bumper hitting the ramp.

The picture with the funnel - that's a cut off plastic soda bottle, rinsed and dried. Works great as a disposable funnel.

The picture of the gasket on the ruler (in inches) - what is that gasket for? This gasket, and the large one for the filter, came with the filter. Is this gasket for the screw that needs the 6mm allen wrench when removing the filter housing?

Total cost = roughly $30, the same as what my local Mazda dealer charges for normal oil, but I used Mobil 1 synthetic, I know it was done right, and nothing was overtightened.

Cost breakdown: $22 plus tax for a 5-quart jug of Mobil 1 from Wal-Mart (so around $23.75). About $5.50 for the filter from this place:
http://www.mazdaparts.org/genuine-mazda-oilfilter.html

and as a bonus, if you order the filter package from the link above, they toss in a "free" oil filter wrench.

It took about 35 minutes though I can cut it down to about 20 or 25 minutes next itme, including time for the oil to drain.

[07MZ5SA]

I love your oil additive!!!

[coolmazda5]

I love your oil additive!!!

:D, beat me to it. That is the only part I feel encouraged to How-To do myself...

[babelbox]

When I did my 40K oil change few months ago, one of the plastic piece that holds one of the screws broke off. So I decided to extend the hole in the cover so that I don't have to remove the cover the next time I change the oil. So when I did my 45K Oil change a few days ago, I removed the cover for the last time (hopefully). Got my dremel and just extended the hole.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc206/epektus/mazda5/downsized_0808091500.jpg

[TheMAN]

Hey there. I have a question. I'm leasing a mazda 5 07 with the intention of buying it at the end. Now every time I bring the car to do the service appointment I receive bills of $200 and $300 for a simple 6 months inspectio or whatever.
Last week I went to midas and asked for prices and I was realy surpriised to notice that for example,to change the tires at Mazda it costed me $120 while at mazda is $60. The oil change (5W20) at mazda is costing me $80 while at midas is only 49 with the courtesy package included.
Now my question is ,since the car is under leasing, am I obliged to do the service appointments every 6 months at the dealership or can I just do them at midas and keep the bills just in case. Will this void the warranty???(I have also the extended warranty!!! this suckers got me good!!).
I use the car mostly to go to to work and an occasional trip down to the states to surf (I live in Montreal)
Thanks in advance for your help

it is illegal for any auto maker to require you to perform service work at your local dealer... read your warranty book, it says so!

they CAN, however deny warranty coverage if whatever that was done at an independent shop breaks something in your car, so in such an event, you'll have to take up the problem with them


not all dealers charge the same prices, so you might want to go to a different dealer that doesn't rip your head off... beware of the quick lube places because they have kids that don't know what they're doing and forget things like tightening the drain plug... and then when the engine blows up because of those places, you'll have to fight them and make them pay

what does matter though is keeping receipts of all the service work you do so that if anything happens you have a foot to stand on

[Robotaz]

The reason I prefer to do it myself is to make sure that the plastic cover on the bottom is not abused or left off. I've had that happen on too many cars to keep doing it to myself. My MX3, the idiots left a few screws out of it because of the usual bullcrap excuse "it's not necessary" and I drove off and ripped the whole thing off of the bottom. Then when I say to order me another one they look at me like "idiot, you don't even need that". I hate dealers. Just do this stuff yourself and your car will last a very long time. Take it to dealers and you'll have nuts, bolts, entire parts of your car missing.

[Diehonda]

Oil filters:
WIX Part # 57203
BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0410817
FRAM Part # CH9641 {Full-Flow Cartridge}
ACDELCO Part # PF1703 {#89058383}

[KBrian]

if it's a lease vehicle, Mazada is responsible for all the maint or they should be..... you don't own the vehicle, they do....... check your paperwork......

When I was in car sales, I had other dealers talk about their short-term lease customers who would never do any maintenance on the car and turn it in after three years (warranty up) with the factory fill still in the crankcase, no rotation, original air filter etc. They said they saw this all the time with company short term leases.

[SGT_OKINAWA]

AGREE !!!

Changed the oil on my 06 MP (Mazda Premacy) and it was so easy, saved $30.00 compared to the base gas station/service shop.

The base service shop charges me $30.00 to remove the plastic underbody shield. (loser)

Plus I know nothing was f'ed up when I do it :)

peace!(rei)

[professorhank]

Bought my 07 used about 5 months ago and have performed 2 DIY oil changes so far. Previous owner cut a 5" circle through the undercover so I don't have to deal with removing the undercover. First car I've ever owned with an oil filter cartridge. My observations:

Removing the cartridge housing tends to drip lots of oil down your hand and forearm. Even after unplugging the small drain plug first, it still tends to drip down your hand when removing the main housing.

Threading the housing back on, screwed it crooked onto the metal block and destroyed the housing threads. Luckily, I had already bought a spare.

5-20 oil is like water and easily drips and splatters if you're not handling it carefully.

Someone from another thread has already mentioned this but the drain plug is positioned horizontally and the oil SHOOTS out when you pull the plug. Position the pan properly or it can get messy.

Despite the above, I'd still rather do it myself. But I must say that in my opinion, this is one of the more difficult cars I've had to deal with for a DIY oil change. My wife's 4 cyl Highlander, old 4 cyl MX-3, and Infiniti I30 was so much easier doing an oil change.

[m5pa]

The undertray is an annoyance to be sure and I know mine didn't go back on right when I was done. I'd still rather do an oil change on the 5 then on my 96 Cougar V8 (worst one so far, inaccessible at best). Not as easy as our Subaru was. Still enjoy doing it though.

I also did the horn replacement today! What a difference and I was able to take the bumper off and get it back on without much cursing!

[m5pa]

Doing the oil change on any car the first time is interesting and a challenge. This was my first time with a cartridge style filter, so I made a fairly large mess because I didn't let enough oil drain out of the housing.

Other than that, the only pain is removing the plastic shield and re-installing it, but as stated before, electric drill or screwdriver makes the work go faster. Worth the hour (next time 30 minutes) of my time. :)

[cutman1968]

hello all
will i have a 2010 mazda 5
i pick it up with only 4 mile on it
when i pick it up the car place told me the first oil change was do at 3750 can anyone till me if this is right i just hit 2025 mile this is my first mazda i want to keep it like new (wrc)(redp5)(anyone)
thank you for any help

[CaptainSpalding]

hello all
will i have a 2010 mazda 5
i pick it up with only 4 mile on it
when i pick it up the car place told me the first oil change was do at 3750 can anyone till me if this is right i just hit 2025 mile this is my first mazda i want to keep it like new (wrc)(redp5)(anyone)
thank you for any help
I've always found it annoying that someone at the dealership would recommend something other than the oil change interval specified in the owner's manual, but it happens a lot.

The owner's manual recommendation specifies that the oil and filter should be changed every 6 months or 7500 miles.

[crocket147]

My wife recently took our '08 Mazda6 to our local dealership because it was leaking oil. I didnt bother to check what was wrong because it is still under the limited powertrain warranty. Normally, I would take it or at least go with her because I know how many auto mechanics take advantage of women because many women lack automobile knowledge. However, I was unable to go yet confident because it was warranted and I told her to call me if it was something that wasnt covered. This was my first time taking a vehicle for warranty service, and I read in my warranty guide that seals and gaskets are covered under the 5/60 limited powertrain warranty. She called me shortly after for approval and to tell me what the mechanic said. He told her that the oil filter housing was completely gone, and since it was missing and not just broken, it was not covered and would cost $60 to repair. I didnt understand how a filter housing/cap could cause a leak as I was (until now) only familiar with screw-on filters. I told her to decline the service and bring the car home for me to look at because I knew that was something I could fix and for cheaper. The dealership then told her she would still have to pay $30 for the diagnostic so I decided an extra $30 was worth it to not have to get under the car, get dirty, and make a trip to the parts store. By the time she returned I had done a little research on oil housings/caps and the thing I don't understand is, if there were no housing whatsoever, how was there oil left in it? I mean we drove at least 100 miles and it would only drip maybe 1/2 oz. onto our garage floor overnight. I know if you remove a screw-on filter completly, youll be out of oil before you get out of your driveway. My Q is is this possible, or did we get taken? Was the housing probably cracked and the dealership didnt want to cover it so they lied? It's not the small amount of $60 I'm concerened about, I just hate being taken advantage of, and I hate people who take advantage of others. Please help.

[v_tofu]

My wife recently took our '08 Mazda6 to our local dealership because it was leaking oil. I didnt bother to check what was wrong because it is still under the limited powertrain warranty. Normally, I would take it or at least go with her because I know how many auto mechanics take advantage of women because many women lack automobile knowledge. However, I was unable to go yet confident because it was warranted and I told her to call me if it was something that wasnt covered. This was my first time taking a vehicle for warranty service, and I read in my warranty guide that seals and gaskets are covered under the 5/60 limited powertrain warranty. She called me shortly after for approval and to tell me what the mechanic said. He told her that the oil filter housing was completely gone, and since it was missing and not just broken, it was not covered and would cost $60 to repair. I didnt understand how a filter housing/cap could cause a leak as I was (until now) only familiar with screw-on filters. I told her to decline the service and bring the car home for me to look at because I knew that was something I could fix and for cheaper. The dealership then told her she would still have to pay $30 for the diagnostic so I decided an extra $30 was worth it to not have to get under the car, get dirty, and make a trip to the parts store. By the time she returned I had done a little research on oil housings/caps and the thing I don't understand is, if there were no housing whatsoever, how was there oil left in it? I mean we drove at least 100 miles and it would only drip maybe 1/2 oz. onto our garage floor overnight. I know if you remove a screw-on filter completly, youll be out of oil before you get out of your driveway. My Q is is this possible, or did we get taken? Was the housing probably cracked and the dealership didnt want to cover it so they lied? It's not the small amount of $60 I'm concerened about, I just hate being taken advantage of, and I hate people who take advantage of others. Please help.

Yikes, sounds like the same problem I have. I believe my housing is cracked or something, b/c it leaks about 2-3 drops per night (i.e go home after work, next morning when I leave)

Can someone just confirm that the oil filter housing is this one? http://www.mazdastuff.com/product.cfm?ProductID=2876

It says its for the Mazda 6.. but someone linked it earlier...

[headache56]

Dommo,

I know your post was a while back but it is really useful, thanks. Here in the UK I cannot buy a Haynes manual or similar for my 2008 MX5 and the official Mazda workshop manual seems to be like USD250+.

I appreciate that the USD29.95 price is now historic but it sounds so cheap - would this maybe relate to the dealers who use the simple "suction tube down the dipstick pipe" method for an oil change. If so, would this result in a whole load of sludge remaining in the oil sump (pan) ?

[mars1100]

Well, I have done my first oil change on the 2009' 5 today. I had the previous 3 oil changes done at the dealer. I wanted to get the mobil 1 in there as in my other cars and did not want to pay 60 bucks for it, so did it myself.
The steps up top help a bunch, Thanks for the tutorial.

Only problem is I did not read the tutorial carefully enough and did not know the little allen screw on the filter housing was a drip hole and removed the whole housing at once, therefore the nasty oil spill(luckily I always place cardboard down). Also did not replace the o ring behind the allen screw since I did not know it came off, and did not replace the washer behind the oil pan bolt.(washer fell on the floor out of the box after new oil was in, I swear I did not see it before hand.)
I guess I'll get those next time around, hopefully they won't leak.

Not too bad, took me about 45 minutes to 1 hour including checking the rest of the fluids and the under carriage of the entire car.

Once again thanks for the tutorial!!!

[Heat]

...Can someone just confirm that the oil filter housing is this one? http://www.mazdastuff.com/product.cfm?ProductID=2876

It says its for the Mazda 6.. but someone linked it earlier...
That's it, it's a standard one for Mazda's 2.3 liter engines. Here is another source; the first one is just the housing, the second one includes an oil filter:

http://www.mazdaparts.org/mazda-oilfilter-housing.html
http://www.mazdaparts.org/mazda-oil-filter-housing.html
plus they have free shipping on orders over $100.

If still in doubt, just call before ordering. It would be good to have a spare one laying around "just in case". I picked one up when I first bought my oil filters.


...Not too bad, took me about 45 minutes to 1 hour including checking the rest of the fluids and the under carriage of the entire car...
45 to 60 minutes sounds like a long time, but I know for me to drive to the dealer would be 15 minutes each way, then the wait at the dealer would be at least 30 minutes. Besides, you can cut the time by half within the next oil change or two now that you know what you are doing.

When you buy your filters always pick up enough crush washers to have a new crush washer per filter. They cost about $1.37 each but it's cheap insurance against oil leaks.

http://www.mazdaparts.org/mazda-oil-pan-drain-plug-washer.html

[Robotaz]

Yikes, sounds like the same problem I have. I believe my housing is cracked or something, b/c it leaks about 2-3 drops per night (i.e go home after work, next morning when I leave)

Can someone just confirm that the oil filter housing is this one? http://www.mazdastuff.com/product.cfm?ProductID=2876

It says its for the Mazda 6.. but someone linked it earlier...

Sounds like gaskets/washers on the filter housing, the drip plug on the bottom of the filter housing, or the drain plug on the oil pan. If you buy Mazda filters the two gaskets come with it. I replace the crush washers on the drain plug, but I've never leaked oil on a drain plug when I didn't change them. I would be checking the filter housing thoroughly. Don't forget that when the filter housing gasket is changed, it takes some torque to get it to screw all the way back down. Also, use the proper wrench that applies torque to all possible surfaces on the housing instead of using stuff like a plumbing wrench, which only torques two surfaces and could cause you to crack it.

[Heat]

...Also, use the proper wrench that applies torque to all possible surfaces on the housing...
Yep, looks like this:
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-24809172479195_2104_17631883

The cartridge housing is not like a canister filter where you can you can abuse it while taking it off, the cartridge housing has to be reused.

I picked one up from www.mazdaparts.org (http://www.mazdaparts.org/genuine-mazda-oilfilter.html), came with five oil filter cartridges for $27.40. If you are doing your own oil changes and you have the cartridge style oil filter, either buy the wrench or buy the 5-pack of oil filters that comes with the wrench. Having the right tool for this job, or any job for that matter, makes the job much easier.

The hole that's in the wrench fits your socket wrench (1/2" if I remember right). So you put the oil filter wrench (the thing in the picture) on the housing, put your socket wrench into the square hole on the oil filter wrench, and turn.

[Robotaz]

Heat, I bought the same kit. I also bought the crush washers from them.

[jimp]

changed the oil & filter in our 09 5, and have done 3 drain and refills on the atx, so should be good on the atx for a while. Did one atx drain and refill 30 days ago, couldn't see any difference in fluid/shifting at that point. Did one drain/refill and drove it ~5 miles, then did another drain/refill. Drove about 30 miles to dinner and then I checked the fluid level it still looked cherry red, so I feel somewhat comfortable that I got ~90% of the old atx fluid out. Plan on doing a atx drain/fill everytime I change the oil, which I hope will keep me ahead of the curve on the atx fluid. Considered doing the DIY flush but did not feel comfortable in removing the hose at the atx pump/cooler, so will do the drain/refill at each oil change going forward.

[Mazda5fan]

Anyone knows the expansion clip part number?

[red headz]

changed the oil & filter in our 09 5, and have done 3 drain and refills on the atx, so should be good on the atx for a while...

Is there a "how to" on changing the Auto Transmission? I can change oil, but need a visual for the transmission.
thanks.
michael.

[jimp]

just search the "3" forums, the engine/tranny set is same, so everything for the 3 will apply to the 5.

[Diehonda]

Are there any other options to replacing the rear wiper other than getting one from the dealer?

[J.P.]

The wiper 'refill' (just the rubber part) is the same as a Honda CRV rear. I discovered that when I was replacing the refills for my Civic one day. Canadian Honda dealers sell them for about CDN$6. I have not priced them out at Mazda yet. These guys seem to have decent prices on OE Mazda stuff:

http://www.mazdaparts.org/gema5expa.html

Given your user name, I just had to make that reference! ;)

[Partsguy]

I just grabbed the housing and he-manned it off there. Don't need no stinkin' filter wrench:D

I also he-man the bottom portion. My Mechanic friend told me not to bother 'torqueing' it down. Use the same force you would if you had a metalic filter ( like all the other cars in the world). Just hand tighten it. No tools to buy and most importantly, no tools to lose...

[JKoscoe]

Off Topic. Has anyone had a front wheel bearing fail? I think my pass side is going bad. It sounds the same as cupped tires, but the tires are a few months old and have been quiet until a few days ago. Anybody have any insight on what it sounds like and if it can be done by me or does it need to be a certified technician?

[gabagooo]

I just buy one from the dollar store and then cut it down to size. Works just fine.

[dieseldriver]

Since I've been using the Pela oil extractor, it cuts down my oil change time to less than half of what it used to take me, plus very little mess. For my 2012 M5GT, there's a cutout for the oil filter so all I have to do is to stick a half cut 2liter soda bottle and stick it in the filter as I loosen it. Hardly any mess at all.

Oil extractor takes more oil out than if I was to drain it using the drain plug, I know from experience. But the engine has to be slightly warm as that will make the extracting a lot easier. This is how fleet oil change is done.

Here's the linke to Pela Oil Extractor:
http://www.amazon.com/Trac-Dynamics-Oil-Extractor-liter/dp/B0000BYO97/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1318848819&sr=8-1