CP-E Turbo inlet

[Brianv08.5]

Just doing my usual surfing on the internet tonight and came across this http://www.cp-e.com/2138.html

Placed a preorder, hopefully it won't be to long before they start shipping.(rockon)

[SHaW]

Wow, for 0 dollars.

[MS3Steve]

Awesome, I heard CP-E was working on an inlet, any idea of what the price will be?

[SHaW]

I would guess it would be around $150 just because it is CP-E.

[MS3Steve]

I liked your first price better :)

[SHaW]

Any turbo inlet available out there, besides one of them (forgot the name), is better than out plastic POS inlet.

[steven88]

yup, plastic pancaked pos for sure....they made it pancaked so it will fit between the battery box and engine...they didnt have to squish it that much though...seriously, u can fit a 2.5 inch pipe and still get away with clearance

cp-e's 3 inch turbo inlet is definitely interesting...i wonder how clearance is with that piece

[Circle9]

Me like! I'll get one soon as well. I prefer silicone inlets over aluminum ones any day.

[fructus]

Any chance it's gonna come out sooner than Cobb's? Also not knowing the price is a bit of a turn off.

[fructus]

Just got off the phone with CP-E, and they are planning the release at the end of next week, and the price info should be out by the end of the day. The high estimate is $250. If Cobb's will be priced the same as their Evo inlet, which is $99 or so, than it's a no brainer.

[john blutarski]

Just got off the phone with CP-E, and they are planning the release at the end of next week, and the price info should be out by the end of the day. The high estimate is $250. If Cobb's will be priced the same as their Evo inlet, which is $99 or so, than it's a no brainer.

$250?! F that

[Circle9]

WTF is the $250 price tag for?!!! Yea, if its that much, forget it!

[UHATEIT]

cobb is supposed to be around 80-100 thats what they told me

[fructus]

Remember that $250 is the high estimate, not a firm price. Don't be hating just yet.

[steven88]

just found out on MSF that it will be $210 MSRP....this is directly from Jordan @ cp-e

if cobb can keep it around $100 MSRP....I will go with the cobb piece for sure

[jlocurto]

+1 cp-e's inlet will be $210 from them, vendors cheaper of course

[MS3Steve]

Just wanted to confirm your price of $210 is what CP-E has posted on their website now.

[john blutarski]

Cobb is going to kill CP-E in inlet sales if this is true.

[Circle9]

Haha!! I just saw their pricing as well, they have the most expensive inlet pipe now. Do we have a verified price on the Cobb yet?

[fructus]

Got en email from CP-E - they're making only 50 inlets for the first batch to be shipped out within 2 weeks. So if someone wants it, better hurry.

[mazdaspeed32007]

not at 200+. ill go cobb thank you.

[john blutarski]

not at 200+. ill go cobb thank you.


+1

[PCspeed3]

So Iam paying more for the inlet tube than my intake now? What is this Soviet Russia? Fancy ass metal plus silicone design seems more price costly then performance effective....

I will wait 9 more days for Cobb

[fructus]

Chris from Cobb said, though he wasn't 100% sure, that their inlet should be in the Evo X inlet price range, which is $95.

[CWPspeed3]

Chris from Cobb said, though he wasn't 100% sure, that their inlet should be in the Evo X inlet price range, which is $95.

So that would be silicon like their intake as well? $95 I could do, more expensive than the cobb sri i dont want to do...

[SHaW]

SU is selling the turbo inlet for 199.50. Still way too much for a tubo inlet...

[strytnyne]

wth 199 thats whack

[mazdasp33d]

why dropping two hundred buck for an inlet? imo thats too much.. its not all about the money lol

customers happiness>making money (yes)

[SHaW]

Looks to me like COBB will be beating CP-E in the turbo inlet race since COBB's turbo inlets are at most $90. This is even with CP-E releasing their product officially sooner than COBB.

[steven88]

i wonder how the cobb will fit onto the stock intake piping? cp-e is obvious they have aluminum built into the ends....but i wonder if cobb will have something similar?

last thing i want is air leaking from the ends because of insufficient sealing

[SHaW]

From the looks of their previous turbo inlets on the EVO its just silicon and the clamps. I think...

http://www.cobbtuning.com/images_products/3944.jpg

http://www.cobbforums.com/forums/images/Turbo_Inlet_Lrg.jpg

[steven88]

if you look at the evo x pics, the stock maf sensor has a fitting at the end to make the inlet fit nice and tight

but what about our MS3? we do have a fitting on our stock turbo inlets....if cobb takes that off, how are we gonna fit our intakes onto the inlet?

[fructus]

The inlet is just under $194 shipped from SU with their 3% global discount. Not a big help, but beats $210 plus shipping.

[08cosmic3]

The Cobb inlet is out now. They are $165 from Cobb. I can't find them anywhere else. It will be $178 shipped. I bit the bullet and ordered one. I don't want to miss this and have to wait for 6 months for the next batch, if there even will be a next batch.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg70/scottyskywalker/4356.jpg

[CWPspeed3]

Should have known they werent going to be anywhere near $95, who came up with that? Hmm blue to match the sri or black for stock look...

[steven88]

Should have known they werent going to be anywhere near $95, who came up with that? Hmm blue to match the sri or black for stock look...

cuz the other silicone turbo inlet that is available, the evo 10 one, is $95

they also have a "post maf pipe" for the subarus running for $75...this is just a silicone pipe

if you ask me, the cobb turbo inlet for the ms3 has metal inserts...that is why the price went up

oh well

[fructus]

$182.30. Just ordered. Pretty much double of the expected price. At least it's early.

[SHaW]

Now the COBB one is actually priced better. They both look really really similar....

[Speed3ForMe]

Interesting...the top of the COBB inlet doesnt have the mount to allow for it to mount to the IC, at least from that picture it doesn't.

[RC08MS3]

only real difference i see is that CP-e has a little tab to mount something(not sure what) on the side

http://www.cp-e.com/imgs/Nviscid1_big.jpg

they do use a different way to connect the vacuum line. Cobb you push in, CP-E u put over?(shrug) just from what i see
http://www.cp-e.com/imgs/Nviscid2_big.jpg

Seeing i have a CP-e CAI, ill most likely stick with the CP-e inlet just to make sure it has a good fit.

[SHaW]

Difference:


cpe uses a brass nipple(instead of plastic), they rolled the tubing for the couplers(cobb didnt bother), it includes the factory mounting bracket(cobb didnt bother), and its bigger(vs smaller)...

whats the same? theyre silicone.... and theyre inlets.

Every possible difference that could have been different about them is.... except for the fact that thier both silicone. it cracks me up people think theyre the same. There isnt anything about them thats the same.

Also, if anyone is going to get an upgraded turbo, the CP-E will be more beneficial and still usable.

[UHATEIT]

the cp-e looks retardely large at the intake side. So you'd have to have an intake that is 3-inch diameter, otherwise for those with a cobb or mazdaspeed intake you would have to get a 2.5 to 3 inch coupler to link to the cp-e. Best bet is to buy the Cobb thats's 2.5 like most intakes for this car are. And since the stock inlet is 2.5 inch on the intake side, your coupler that came with your intake already matched a 2.5 diameter, so save yourself the money and get the cobb as chances are your intake is ready to mate with a 2.5 inlet opening. People might think cp-e is better due to being 3-inch, but it tapers to 2-inch where it attatches to the turbo anyways, they all do

And how the vac nipple links up isnt a huge difference, brass compared to plastic. its just an overflow valce and doesn't really do much. The inlet hardly moves if anywhere at all so the chances of it breaking off the inlet are 1,000,000 to 1

[Circle9]

I've given up trying to find a inlet pipe for around $100, they all seem to hang around $200.

I sort of feel stupid spending just as much for an inlet pipe as I did for my intake. I feel that a lot more time and effort went into making the Nano than the inlet pipe.

Oh well, I'll probably get CP-E pipe since I have the Nano already.

[ms6acton]

i waited and am getting the corksport sri.. which comes with a new inlet (: $240 for the whole thing!

[SuperStretch18]

The CPE has a mounting tab, so it'll stay in place and rolled edges so that the silicone connectors don't work loose. Those two things make the $15 extra seem worth it...

[john blutarski]

i waited and am getting the corksport sri.. which comes with a new inlet (: $240 for the whole thing!

+1

[RC08MS3]

ordered my CP-E inlet today! ordered from the RPM store, and called before and they told me that CP-E will drop ship from the factory so i should have in about a week so i guess well see. Also there is an option to choose from whether you have a CP-E intake or not. if you do, it comes with the 3" coupler, if you dont it comes with a 2.5" to fit others. the 3" coupler will fit the full CAI or NANO.

[RC08MS3]

some pictures of my latest delivery:
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn305/RC00GT/0203091635.jpg

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn305/RC00GT/0203091634.jpg

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn305/RC00GT/0203091635a.jpg

[mazdasp33d]

is it in yet? (hahah)

[steven88]

that thing looks huge...

[Sinoito]

is it in yet? (hahah)

I got mine in today too but I haven't installed it yet. If you have installed how did you do it? Did you follow the CP-E instructions and take off the intercooler or did you follow the other instructions on the other forum and take out the battery? I was wondering which would be easier.

[mazdasp33d]

I got mine in today too but I haven't installed it yet. If you have installed how did you do it? Did you follow the CP-E instructions and take off the intercooler or did you follow the other instructions on the other forum and take out the battery? I was wondering which would be easier.

Mine is coming in the mail soon to be here. i think it would be easier to follow the instructions given with the inlet imo.

[RC08MS3]

i didn't install yet, but the intercooler is an easy remove so i think i will, just to have the room to get to things a bit easier. ill also be doing my transmission mount, so the battery out of the way is a given. im thinking this is going to be an easy install, but i will let everyone know. if i get out of class early tomorrow i will install and update on any issues i come across or anything like that.'

and the thing is HUGE for the turbo, you can see were it tapers back down to the 2" looking inlet on the turbo haha, but the nice thing is i know its had alot of R&D so it will be a good product.

[714ms3]

is it in yet? (hahah)


that thing looks huge...

That's what she said twice :O
And in regards to uhateit's comments about the fittings for different intakes, CP-e offers an adapter so that it can be used with the puny 2.5 intakes. Stock it fits the macho 3" big boy intakes - like mine. CP-e = the Chuck Norris of inlet pipes!

[mazdasp33d]

the adapter that you speak of... is that the elbow pictured?

[DRKNYTE]

Where is everyone buying from...... I want to get one ASAP. Thanks!

[RC08MS3]

i bought mine from www. therpmstore. com , drop shipped right to my house. i ordered on friday, i recieved yesturday, idk why everyone thinks they cant b shipped till end of the month blah blah, just call around and ask.

yes the elbow is pictured above, its a 3 inch elbow that covers the end of the intake as well as the inlet, so the size is not reduced

[RC08MS3]

ok, well without boring you too much, here is an update

the install was a little tougher than i thought, due to some having to figure out things. i glanced over the instructions but they are usually worthless so i dont study them. well the instructions with it are helpful in some way, so i would look over them.

i got the stock inlet off and compared them:
look at the size difference
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn305/RC00GT/0204091609.jpg

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn305/RC00GT/0204091640a.jpg

Now the next picture just made me outright laugh, that mazda would actually engineer this masterpiece:
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn305/RC00GT/0204091640.jpg
wtf is the dent in it for? idk if it melted from the coolant hose under it, but that was complete crap IMO.

now it was dark once i got everything completely on and back together, so i dont have any completed pics. it looks very stock though, and once the battery is back in you wont even know its there.

a couple tips though:

put the recirc hose and coupler on the inlet before you put the inlet on the turbo, just seems easier to muscle it off the car.
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn305/RC00GT/0204091712.jpg
i cant tell you if an easy way to get the inlet on, for me i just had to muscle, moan n cuss the thing on. not alot of room. i didn't take the inter cooler off so i bet it would be easier with it off. make sure u have the clamp on the inlet before you put it on the turbo, wont be a lot of room to try and get it in there after its on. now the next part of it started to get me kinda pissed, because i thought it wasn't going to fit for a while. It didn't seem like the intake and coupler were going to fit without it looking like shit, so you have to force it a little, its very tight. but it will come together and look like its suppose to. don't put the nut on the mounting bracket until you have all the clamps tightened down. if i have some time ill try and get a finished product picture soon, unless someone beats me to it.

o i have a CP-E CAI by the way, so im sure the SRI's will be an easier fit

[RC08MS3]

o also, they vacuum line that goes to the metal nipple for the waste gate wasn't long enough, so i had to use another piece. just an FYI before you start and don't have any.

power gain= not sure about whp, but the butt dyno is liken it. it boost so much smoother, and it spools a hell of a lot faster. the power in the mid range is up, and it also feels as if the motor not under boost has a little more of its own now also. turbo/bov sound the same, no escalation in sound or difference in tone to me. but none the less a good 200 spent

[mazdasp33d]

that dent is from the old inlet collapsing under boost (correct if im wrong) but im sure thats why and huge difference!

[RC08MS3]

wow, actually i took it on the highway today, and its a different machine now, the turbo dosent have a whistle, it sounds like violent suction, and once your at full boost its constant pull, dosent feel like it gradually dies off as before.

[CnoTataymo]

Nice review. Does anyone have one an inlet installed with just the factory airbox?

[Sinoito]

I just finished installing the pipe with my cousin too and boy was it a PITA. Shoot, I thought it was only gonna take at most an hour but we ended up working on it for 6 hours. We ran into a lot of unexpected problems. First we couldn't get the new inlet onto the turbo because a hose was blocking it from the bottom. So we took the hose out and then all of my coolant leaked out from the hose. Next, as RC08MS3 mentioned the waste gate vacuum line wasn't long enough to fit on the metal nipple so we loosened the other end to lift it and have just enough to put on the nipple. After the inlet was finally on the turbo flange, we couldn't get the hose which leaked the coolant back onto where it was supposed to go. But after all of those problems, it was smooth sailing.

[UHATEIT]

ive been saying it since I installed my inlet... it sounds like a jet-like suction with the inlet installed. Install also isn't a walk in the park, regardless of how easy you might think it is, it takes more effort and time that you would think it would take.

also watch out for that skinny vac/wastegate line piece that comes off the top and goes to the selinoid, I broke the top of the selinoid piece (not the part on the inlet but the part the line goes to), its a bitch to get it off the top of the selinoid, and I broke that little bitch.

[RC08MS3]

I just finished installing the pipe with my cousin too and boy was it a PITA. Shoot, I thought it was only gonna take at most an hour but we ended up working on it for 6 hours. We ran into a lot of unexpected problems. First we couldn't get the new inlet onto the turbo because a hose was blocking it from the bottom. So we took the hose out and then all of my coolant leaked out from the hose. Next, as RC08MS3 mentioned the waste gate vacuum line wasn't long enough to fit on the metal nipple so we loosened the other end to lift it and have just enough to put on the nipple. After the inlet was finally on the turbo flange, we couldn't get the hose which leaked the coolant back onto where it was supposed to go. But after all of those problems, it was smooth sailing.

fyi, i did the same lol, but i got the hose back on before too much damage was done. if i were you id double check to make sure that coolant hose isnt pressed into the silicone outlet like it was mine, i just moved the coolant hose towards the battery and off of the silicone.

HATE that sucks dude, i ended up just using a longer piece of hose, but i agree getting the stock hose was a bitch, mine didn't break, but i clamped it on tight to make sure i didn't have to do it again.

and on top of it, installed my Cobb AP, and HOLY SHIZNIT!! cars is getting more and more addicting every day!

[steven88]

this is how its suppose to be from the factory :)

[turbos3]

For anyone who wanted a dashhawk reading with stock inlet: I did a data log in 3rd and 4th gear to compare how quickly the turbo spools. Im gonna have to redo my 3rd gear pull but the 4th is ok. Im going to compare the rpm's to the first boost spike. Today i got 16.09 at 2703 RPM. It then went to about 13.45 until around 5200 RPM. That pretty much sucked. I really lost boost at about 5700. I will be posting again once i get my inlet to show how they compare. Let me know if any of you guys have any dashhwak requests.

[LBV]

Let me know if any of you guys have any dashhwak requests.

Great ... how about RPM, boost, AFR, WG%, timing advance?

Try and start WOT at the same RPM (say 3000) ... would love to see a before and after comparison.

[turbos3]

Great ... how about RPM, boost, AFR, WG%, timing advance?

Try and start WOT at the same RPM (say 3000) ... would love to see a before and after comparison.

ok i can do that, for timing advance should i usevalve timing solenoid control DC% or Actual Intake Valve timing, or Spark Advance? Im thinking spark advance but i just wanna see what you prefer..

[becks]

I broke the top of the selinoid piece (not the part on the inlet but the part the line goes to), its a bitch to get it off the top of the selinoid, and I broke that little bitch.

What did you do because you broke it? Did you get it replaced or were you still able to use it broken?

[LBV]

You got it, spark advance. Thx

[turbos3]

ok ill get that data tonight after work. should be up around 11 or so.

[turbos3]

does anyone know how i would be able to put my dashhawk graph online? I thoiught i knew but i guess not. i got that 4th gear run and wanna share it.

[turbos3]

Ok I figured it out. This is as requested: RPM, Boost Psi, AFR, WG, Spark Adv. It made better boost during forth gear as opposed to the 3rd gear pull the other night. All runs I do completely loose boost at 6200 rpm. :( As you can see in the graph i made boost consistantly in the high 15 low 16 psi range. eh not too bad but i would like to see some smoother lines. Sorry about the end of the run, it went a bit crazy. I had to shift due to an (hah)evo that THOUGHT I was racing him. oh well.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=144472

[steven88]

damnit you need a longer vacuum hose for the wastegate solenoid valve....stock is too short...man I should have read this thread over before I went outside for install....I just got too excited and now I am stuck with the car not running

ADVICE = please do yourself a HUGE favor and buy some extra hose....lowes or home depot should have rubber hoses....I believe the size is 3/16 inner diameter...

Also, the stupid coolant line is touching the turbo inlet....any tips to this one? I know RC08MS3 said you can move it to the side closer to the battery...is it safe to do this? Theres not much play in the coolant hose either

[RC08MS3]

i had enough play in mine to just move it enough it didn't push into the inlet, but didnt get kinked or pulled off the connector

[MS3JamOnIt]

I just got a Cobb turbo inlet and haven't installed it. I wonder if I'm going to be having the same install problems you guys are having with the CP-E turbo inlet. I'm going to puchase extra hose just in case.

Does anyone know for sure if 3/16" ID is there right size to get?

How much lenght of hose should I get?



07 Silver MS3, Mazdaspeed CAI, Mazdaspeed CBE, TWM short shifter and bushings, SU Billet Aluminum Rear Engine Mount, Hotchkins RS, Cobb shifter Weight, Fuel-Filler Door, Goodridge Stainless Steel brake lines, Motul RBF600 brake fluid, Hawk pads.

[steven88]

I just got a Cobb turbo inlet and haven't installed it. I wonder if I'm going to be having the same install problems you guys are having with the CP-E turbo inlet. I'm going to puchase extra hose just in case.

Does anyone know for sure if 3/16" ID is there right size to get?

How much lenght of hose should I get?



07 Silver MS3, Mazdaspeed CAI, Mazdaspeed CBE, TWM short shifter and bushings, SU Billet Aluminum Rear Engine Mount, Hotchkins RS, Cobb shifter Weight, Fuel-Filler Door, Goodridge Stainless Steel brake lines, Motul RBF600 brake fluid, Hawk pads.

well put it this way...when I purchased a BOV from street unit...they gave me free silicone hose sized 3/16 ID...when compared to the stock hose (including the wastegate solenoid one) the 3/16 is actually a "tighter" fit than the stock one...so i know it's in that size range....and i know when I go to lowes, 3/16 is a common size...I'll prob go with that later tonight

[fructus]

Does anyone know the part number for the boost control solenoid. The nipple broke during the install. I superglued back on but not sure if that's gonna cut it.

[RC08MS3]

Does anyone know the part number for the boost control solenoid. The nipple broke during the install. I superglued back on but not sure if that's gonna cut it.

wow looks like ur the second one, ill look around and see what i can find, if not, stealership it is!

[LBV]

It happened to me too. Was it the nipple facing the inside of the car? If so, what I did with mine was file the end where it broke off smooth so I could put the hose back on the end if you know what I mean.

Before it looks like this: ||
After it looks like this: |_

[fructus]

I see what you're saying. I might try that. I superglued it for now. I drove the car a bit after install and everything seems fine. How would I know if things are not working properly?

[RichB]

Alright, I got a quick question. I noticed on CP-E's description of the inlet that it will fit Stock and GT series turbos. I thought the GT series had a larger inlet than stock. If it does how is this part interchangable?

[LBV]

Alright, I got a quick question. I noticed on CP-E's description of the inlet that it will fit Stock and GT series turbos. I thought the GT series had a larger inlet than stock. If it does how is this part interchangable?

I believe they provide different sized reducers that go on the end so as to properly mate to the turbo.

[RichB]

Looking at the pictures tho, it looks like the reducer isn't interchangable.

[RC08MS3]

its not, i have one and idk what they mean by that

[Double Dspeed]

so i'm assuming if everyone is having a problem with the cp-e i should expect the same with my HTP inlet?

[RC08MS3]

well a peice of vacuum hose isnt that big of a deal to me.... idk what other issue there is, seems as if the broken nipple off the solenoid is the issue that the solenoid is plastic and you have to be gentle with it when you change the line.

[UHATEIT]

I broke the nipple off the silinoid, here is my thread about it so people know what to watch out for:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123727489

[RichB]

so why exactly does the vacuum hose at the solenoid need to come off? Couldn't you just leave that side connected and disconnect the hose on the inlet side? Just trying to wrap my head around the problem.

[UHATEIT]

so why exactly does the vacuum hose at the solenoid need to come off? Couldn't you just leave that side connected and disconnect the hose on the inlet side? Just trying to wrap my head around the problem.

with the aftermarket inlet the stock hose from silinoid to the inlet nipple isn't long enough, it's about 2 inches short, so you need to put a longer hose in there. I wastwisting and yanking and trying to get that thing off but its way down there and hard to get the right leverage. It just snapped right off on mine

[RC08MS3]

the hose is not long enough, the smart thing to do is:

leave that end on the solenoid, buy a plastic/metal 2-nipple connector and connect your new hose to the end of the old hose, and connect the new hose to the inlet. wont have to kill yourself to remove the hose, and you wont risk breaking the selenoid. i suggest anyone who does it from here on out do that and save yourself a headache

[RC08MS3]

for those who may not know what im talking about:

http:// www. autozone .com /selectedZip,23834/initialAction,accessoryProductDetail/initialR,5018740/shopping/selectZip.htm


remove spaces

[RichB]

with the aftermarket inlet the stock hose from silinoid to the inlet nipple isn't long enough, it's about 2 inches short, so you need to put a longer hose in there. I wastwisting and yanking and trying to get that thing off but its way down there and hard to get the right leverage. It just snapped right off on mine

Thanks for clarifying!!


the hose is not long enough, the smart thing to do is:

leave that end on the solenoid, buy a plastic/metal 2-nipple connector and connect your new hose to the end of the old hose, and connect the new hose to the inlet. wont have to kill yourself to remove the hose, and you wont risk breaking the selenoid. i suggest anyone who does it from here on out do that and save yourself a headache

Good Call!!

[RC08MS3]

something that will fit a 3/16ths line, but if yours is already broken its to late

[becks]

Has anyone that broke the nipple got the piece replaced (if possible)?

[steven88]

damn that sucks how you guys break your nipple...i guess mine is just strong from the factory....i've done inlets on my car 3 times and never had a problem with that nipple...i just lube it up a bit with silicone....and slowly twist and turn...it usually slides off with little resistance

[RC08MS3]

wow dude, couldn't find an inlet you liked?

[UHATEIT]

pissed me off, I was thinking about that tube adapter, but didnt expect it to break like that!

I did my inlet before many of the people on the forum were doing theirs and this huge inlet craze became the hottest/most popular part to put on this car right now. But When I did mine there was no mention of this ever breaking, so I was probably one of the first to find out.

[wisniaPl]

so which i should get cpe or htp....I heard that htp is loud :D...

[RC08MS3]

my CP-E is f'in loud, all depends, the HTP is aluminum, so it dosent resist heat as well as the silicone, but most say the HTP holds against heat well. The silicone tube has a play in it, so its not a stern fit as the aluminum HTP will. Both will flow the same most likely

[steven88]

so which i should get cpe or htp....I heard that htp is loud :D...

if you want loudness...go HTP...no question about it...I use to have an RPMC which is exactly like the HTP....that thing screamed and sounded real nice...maybe too loud for some

if you want quiet and heat resisting properties...go cobb or cp-e

[SuperStretch18]

for those who may not know what im talking about:

http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,23834/initialAction,accessoryProductDetail/initialR,5018740/shopping/selectZip.htm


remove spaces

We can link to autozone, you know... (whip)

Thanks for the link though...

[UHATEIT]

what the hell is HTP??? I have only heard about that in this thread. Is that the one that Jarod was selling as a custom one in the GB?

[RC08MS3]

We can link to autozone, you know... (whip)

Thanks for the link though...

really? thanks dude, i thought all links were banned but now i will know!!!

Yea the one Jarod was sellin is the HTP

and the CP-E inlet isnt all that quiet

[fructus]

Does anyone know what the normal operating intake air temperature is? Mine started going over 150 in traffic after I installed the inlet. What could be the reason, I wonder?

[Double Dspeed]

what the hell is HTP??? I have only heard about that in this thread. Is that the one that Jarod was selling as a custom one in the GB?

yes it was that one mine should be here hopefully tomorrow and i will be taking pictures and hopefully video (mswerd)

[wisniaPl]

if you want loudness...go HTP...no question about it...I use to have an RPMC which is exactly like the HTP....that thing screamed and sounded real nice...maybe too loud for some

if you want quiet and heat resisting properties...go cobb or cp-e

heat is not a a big problem if you have meth.....

[7mileshome]

I just installed mine today, along with the NANO. I got to say, the nano reminds me of all the low end TQ I used to have with the Cobb SRI.

And just like everyone else is trying to describe the sound. Sounds Totally different. Much more powerful sounding at WOT. Boost definetly comes on quicker.

[funksilver07]

Does anyone know what the normal operating intake air temperature is? Mine started going over 150 in traffic after I installed the inlet. What could be the reason, I wonder?I would say IAT anything over 140* you should avoid any WOT. What air intake are you running? It's not uncommon to heat soak your air intake while stuck in traffic. Once you start moving again it should come right down...

[fructus]

I've got the complete Cobb setup. It does come down very quickly once I start moving.
It's just that it didn't happen prior to the inlet install.

[RichB]

Can anyone with a CP-E inlet relate to this?

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123736035

[RC08MS3]

no, dont have an issue with mine, but from reading that thread it sounds like the BPV not the inlet. im running a Greddy RS and no issue or "bark"

[RichB]

we'll see how the Turbosmart works when I get it.

[mazdasp33d]

anyone still waiting on this? i ordered mine february 3rd, and i still dont have it. i guess i missed first production run

[7mileshome]

im still wating on a 3" to 3" coupler

[Hank3]

Gettin' mine next week. Any of you who have had it a few months care to chime in on how you're still liking this piece? What can I expect performance wise?

And any additional install tips?

[Speedkid]

Got mines awhile ago love it. Its worth every penny.

[PaPaSpeed]

Gettin' mine next week. Any of you who got it a few months care to chime in on how you're still liking this piece? What can I expect performance wise?

And any additional install tips?

I'm sure you'll love it once it's installed. It's a beefy addition to your intake system.
Just a couple install tips.
When removing the stock inlet, be real careful when removing the 3/16" vacuum line that goes from the inlet to the boost solenoid. The nipple on the boost solenoid is plastic and easily breaks off if you yank on the line. Once you move the small hose clamp up, ease the hose off that nipple straight up, perhaps with a small screw driver or small hose picks. Just be careful with it so you don't break that nipple off. CP-e supplies you a new vacuum line, so you can even cut it if you want to.
Before you install the new inlet, connect the recirculation hose that goes to the BPV to the inlet before you install the inlet, it's much easier to get on and tighten the clamp while it's out of the car. Maybe get a nice new silicone recirculation hose while your at it.
Good luck!

[ZoomZoomPSSH]

I'm sure you'll love it once it's installed. It's a beefy addition to your intake system.
Just a couple install tips.
When removing the stock inlet, be real careful when removing the 3/16" vacuum line that goes from the inlet to the boost solenoid. The nipple on the boost solenoid is plastic and easily breaks off if you yank on the line. Once you move the small hose clamp up, ease the hose off that nipple straight up, perhaps with a small screw driver or small hose picks. Just be careful with it so you don't break that nipple off. CP-e supplies you a new vacuum line, so you can even cut it if you want to.
Before you install the new inlet, connect the recirculation hose that goes to the BPV to the inlet before you install the inlet, it's much easier to get on and tighten the clamp while it's out of the car. Maybe get a nice new silicone recirculation hose while your at it.
Good luck!


exactly what he said...

few options on making the install easier. instructions are pretty detailed.
personally, I took out the battery tray, unclipped the ecu and pushed the whole thing towards the headlight to get better clearance. biggest pita was getting the end on the turbo. thats when houston heat and humidity started kicking in. (it makes everything harder). install is pretty easy though. but just as papaspeed said be careful with the boost solenoid. little piece has caused some ms3 owners alot of headaches.

as far as benefits of the inlet. well compare it to the stock one once you get that off and tell me which one your car is better off with lol.
turbo spool can be heard more. dont remember the effect it had on bpv noise though.

good luck with the install. hope you enjoy it. I DO! (idhitit)

[Hank3]

Thank you all so much for the additional info. It is much appreciated and I know it will come in handy. Can't wait!!!

Hope my stocker isn't one of the ones that you can just pull off easily...LOL

[Hank3]

Lookie lookie what I got today. mmmMMMmmm....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/Hank3/IMG_0007-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/Hank3/IMG_0008-3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/Hank3/IMG_0009-3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/Hank3/IMG_0011.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/Hank3/IMG_0012-2.jpg

[steven88]

i noticed they supplied a longer vacuum hose for the boost control solenoid....i was one of the first ones and didn't get the hose...had to make an unexpected trip to the hardware store :P

[coyfish]

Mine is waiting at my parents garage begging me to install it :).

[Hank3]

i noticed they supplied a longer vacuum hose for the boost control solenoid....i was one of the first ones and didn't get the hose...had to make an unexpected trip to the hardware store :P

Not that hose is expensive or anything, but it sure is nice not having to make special trip to the store for it. Especially if you didn't know you needed one (first ones who installed it).

[coyfish]

Figure ill rant out a bit. I got the CPE inlet and frankly the fitment was a bit dissapointing with my non flexible metal intake. Im sure it fits much better with the appropriate CPE intakes. Anyway they sent this metal "coupler" that links the inlet to the intake. What I don't understand is why they made it (non turbine side of inlet) so big. Every real aftermarket brand intake is no bigger than 2.5ish inches. Because its so big they have to provide that metal connector which frankly doesn't fit very well at all with metal aftermarket intakes (at least my injen). It moves around even if you clamp it down super tight. This caused my intake to lengthen about 1-2 inches which caused the CAI bracket to no longer line up with the bolt that secures it to the car. I probably "could" have managed to squeeze everything in there but its not a nice fit by any stretch of the imagination. Any serious movement and that metal coupler is bound to move around. Anyway just figure I would give some negative feedback /:. Im getting the PG inlet which has a smaller non turbine end that connects to the intake. That eliminates the need for any stupid metal "coupler." Usually CPE is has top end quality but frankly 200 bucks for that inlet is a huge rip.

[PaPaSpeed]

"Usually CPE is has top end quality but frankly 200 bucks for that inlet is a huge rip."

Sorry to hear you had so much trouble with it. Mine fit perfectly, and was well worth the money.

[Darth Vader]

Yeah, you're right, the PG went straight on to my AEM CAI, both pipes the same dia. Thus I am 2.5 mandrel, from filter to turbo. I felt that was best.

[Hank3]

Installed mine this weekend and it went on fine - took a little finagling, but I wasn't expecting perfect fitment without a little adjusting. It looks beefy and sounds even beefier!!! Well worth the $175 shipped I paid :)

[coyfish]

"Usually CPE is has top end quality but frankly 200 bucks for that inlet is a huge rip."

Sorry to hear you had so much trouble with it. Mine fit perfectly, and was well worth the money.

Yeah im sure it fits great with the cpe intake. After all it has its own custom made unit for that specific intake.

[RC08MS3]

Figure ill rant out a bit. I got the CPE inlet and frankly the fitment was a bit dissapointing with my non flexible metal intake. Im sure it fits much better with the appropriate CPE intakes. Anyway they sent this metal "coupler" that links the inlet to the intake. What I don't understand is why they made it (non turbine side of inlet) so big. Every real aftermarket brand intake is no bigger than 2.5ish inches. Because its so big they have to provide that metal connector which frankly doesn't fit very well at all with metal aftermarket intakes (at least my injen). It moves around even if you clamp it down super tight. This caused my intake to lengthen about 1-2 inches which caused the CAI bracket to no longer line up with the bolt that secures it to the car. I probably "could" have managed to squeeze everything in there but its not a nice fit by any stretch of the imagination. Any serious movement and that metal coupler is bound to move around. Anyway just figure I would give some negative feedback /:. Im getting the PG inlet which has a smaller non turbine end that connects to the intake. That eliminates the need for any stupid metal "coupler." Usually CPE is has top end quality but frankly 200 bucks for that inlet is a huge rip.

CP-E didnt make there inlet to fit "every real aftermarket brand intake", they made it to fit with theirs, and it does perfect.

[PaPaSpeed]

Yeah im sure it fits great with the cpe intake. After all it has its own custom made unit for that specific intake.

Yeah, I think you got a point there, mine matches up 3" to 3" intake. That's why I try not to mix a match too many manufacturers pieces parts. Cobb makes a smaller 2.5 incher, that may work better on yours.
Good luck.

[Abilor]

I roll with CPE, from filter to turbo. Works great.

[coyfish]

CP-E didnt make there inlet to fit "every real aftermarket brand intake", they made it to fit with theirs, and it does perfect.

Than they shouldn't sell 2 pieces. They have one for CPE intakes and one for "all others." They are probably the same thing minus that metal coupler but whatever . . .

[RC08MS3]

Than they shouldn't sell 2 pieces. They have one for CPE intakes and one for "all others." They are probably the same thing minus that metal coupler but whatever . . .

they were just trying to be nice and give you the option like a good vendor should, they did not guarantee it would fit perfect with the others. Im sure someone would buy it from you(if you haven't already sold it).

[coyfish]

They were trying to be nice lol??? They were trying to sell the most they could at the expense of the consumer. Quite the opposite. They should have made a new piece instead of simply throwing in a POS metal "coupler" and calling it a day. CPE has the most expensive piece out there which is why I am upset. If what you were saying is true than they should put that in the description of their product. "good fit is not guaranteed" 200 bucks for a piece of silicone . . . it might as well fight DECENT.