Best Wax Money Can Buy Right Here

[HogHillbilly]

I thought my first post should be something helpful instead of asking a question......I waxed my Nissan Titan and my wifes CX-9 GT with this stuff

Incredible stuff...........It's pricey...........But it's well worth it
Just look around the site.......I promise you won't be disappointed


http://www.adamspolishes.com/default.aspx

[GoFast]

it sure looks like decent stuff

[NCZ13]

Im not sure what product your referring too. Buttery wax?

I wouldnt go as far to say its the best money can by, but adams does make some very nice products.

[chrisp]

I have always used maguires and mothers, but I would try anything if gets good reviews

[sbmrinaldi]

Adams is suppose to be good stuff. I have used Zaino for years and have not yet found anything I like better. Holds up and provides an incredible shine. Griots is another company that many people stand behind. Meguires and Mothers is not bad, but not near the quality and durability of the above.

[HogHillbilly]

Im not sure what product your referring too. Buttery wax?

I wouldnt go as far to say its the best money can by, but adams does make some very nice products.


Actually, I wasn't talking about buttery wax.........Guess I shoulda made myself clearer

This is the stuff I used.................

http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-126-fine-machine-polish-super-wax-16oz-combo.aspx

I also use their Leather Conditioner with SPF 60

http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-66-leather-dash-conditioner-16oz.aspx

[rk2112]

Here is what I use:

http://www.onegrand.com/

For the leather I use Lexol Products:

http://www.lexol.com/

[Scott P]

There is no best wax. There is only the wax (or sealant) that works best for you. The best results come from the prep work such as claying, paint cleaning and polishing. The wax is just topping.

[Ljspeed]

There is just so much stuff out whether its in the store or online. I agree with Scott, its trying different ones and figuring out from experience which one works and getting feedback on here. For in store purchases I have used the Meguilars products like the clay kit, quick detailer, gold class, and 2.0 tech wax. I was satisfied with all but my friend got me hooked on Zaino products recently. Their clay products took care of rail dust much easier than Meguilars. But Im not sure if it was a little more aggressive than Meguilars since I know their clay is mild.

I can't express how important it is to clay a car 1-2 times a year before any polish and wax. Brand new the CX-9 had alot of rail dust embedded and many other things too. Its alot of hard work but well worth it for the when you lay down the polish/wax.

[vikefan7]

Does Hog sound like a sales rep for Adams or am I just crazy.

[CX9 SportOwner]

99.9% of waxes are a scam to sell more car products, and just aren't needed, especially with modern clear coats. Any wax that beads water does more harm than good by concentrating the solids into denser spots when the water dries. Rubbing on waxes and other chemicals also wears the clear coat.

The only protectant that I would ever use is a dissolved polymer that sheets the water. Polymers actually prevent water from building surface tension, so it has no choice but to actually run off of the car, taking the contaminants with it.

I've never waxed a car and have no finish problems. And yes, we have a broad range of weather and other environmental issues here that can damage paint. Just look around our town and you will see cars everywhere with large expanses of rust where the paint should be.

Keeping the paint clean is the best way to maintain it.

[NCZ13]

with that logic, washing your car would wear the clearcoat, as well as drying it.

I suggest you read up on paint thickness readings and how much wetsanding, compounding and polishing actually removes when done properly.

Sure those "miracle all in one products" are a scam, but there are waxes on the market that contain no abrasives (therefore not removing any clearcoat) and will protect paint for months.

How a paint looks is all in the prep work(polishing). A waxed car is easier to wash and dry as well. With a quality product, (not from your local kragen) waxing is supposed to be an easy process, where the product goes on and comes off easily.

waxing isnt just for protection either, different blends of ingredients result in different looks in the paint in terms of wetness, gloss, and clarity in the reflections. but again, 90% of how the paint looks is in the polishing process.

[sbmrinaldi]

99.9% of waxes are a scam to sell more car products, and just aren't needed, especially with modern clear coats. Any wax that beads water does more harm than good by concentrating the solids into denser spots when the water dries. Rubbing on waxes and other chemicals also wears the clear coat.

The only protectant that I would ever use is a dissolved polymer that sheets the water. Polymers actually prevent water from building surface tension, so it has no choice but to actually run off of the car, taking the contaminants with it.

I've never waxed a car and have no finish problems. And yes, we have a broad range of weather and other environmental issues here that can damage paint. Just look around our town and you will see cars everywhere with large expanses of rust where the paint should be.

Keeping the paint clean is the best way to maintain it.


I don't agree with this at all. Proper cleaning, prepping, polishing and waxing will produce terrific results. I have detailed my own vehicles, bikes, etc for over 25 years and I would to disagree with your statement. I DO Agree that many are not that good, many are over priced and most of all many have no idea how to properly clean and prep a car prior to wax.

[Olestra]

99.9% of waxes are a scam to sell more car products, and just aren't needed, especially with modern clear coats. Any wax that beads water does more harm than good by concentrating the solids into denser spots when the water dries. Rubbing on waxes and other chemicals also wears the clear coat.

The only protectant that I would ever use is a dissolved polymer that sheets the water. Polymers actually prevent water from building surface tension, so it has no choice but to actually run off of the car, taking the contaminants with it.

I've never waxed a car and have no finish problems. And yes, we have a broad range of weather and other environmental issues here that can damage paint. Just look around our town and you will see cars everywhere with large expanses of rust where the paint should be.

Keeping the paint clean is the best way to maintain it.

Put your detailing flame suit on. =P
I'm willing to bet if you put a fully detailed CX-9 right beside your unwaxed, unprotected CX-9, you will see a difference.

[CX9 SportOwner]

But I didn't pay through the nose to have some illegal buff the snot out of my car, either. And I never said my car was unprotected.

[Olestra]

But I didn't pay through the nose to have some illegal buff the snot out of my car, either. And I never said my car was unprotected.

I thought you said you never waxed your car. How else does it become protected?
I don't pay for "some illegal" (how do you even know?) to buff my car either.

[CX9 SportOwner]

Geez, I'm just messing with you. If you want to spend more time and money to make your car shiny, go for it. I was just making a point about waxes and the marketing ploys used to sell them.

The fact is, wax is sticky. It builds up just like floor or furniture wax, and that's why it has to be redone. It protects by actually forming a layer on top of the paint so all the gunk sits on the wax, not the paint.

I use a synthetic liquid polymer. It's a totally different concept. It doesn't cover the paint, but bonds to it. It makes the surface super slick, so nothing, including water can stick to it. Everything just runs off like a Teflon frying pan. Because of this, the car needs to be washed less, and in between washes can simply be rinsed off. Most polymers also have UV inhibitors in them.

There are paste polymers, too, but I like the liquid. The best part of liquid polymers is that they get applied to every surface, including the glass and all those nooks and crannys that wax can't go. So not only does my paint stay cleaner than with a wax, but so do the windows, trim, wheels, exhaust tips, urethane, etc.

Just my preference, so I thought I'd shoot it out there. I have a lot of ideas that no one else thinks of. Some great, others, not so much. But, I like to share either way just in case it helps someone.

Don't give in to hate. Let's all have a CX9 owners barbecue and swap wiv....err stories.

[jimsbim]

I've always been a clay and wax guy - for a few reasons. The car looks like it did in the showroom when it's cleaned and waxed, I love the super smooth feel of the paint after I've done the clay/wax routine, and yes...it is easier to wash, dry and keep looking good. The problem is that it does take time and effort (like anything worthwhile in life.) having said this, I'm interested in the polymer treatment you talk about. Can you share the name of the product you use, and tell us about application frequency, effort required, etc? thanks, Jimsbim

[CX9 SportOwner]

I don't want to specify a brand, plus there are some I haven't tried. Most auto parts stores and home centers will have one or two.

Some are liquids you wipe on, then wipe off. Some are a car wash that applies it as you wash, and others are a paste, like the wax. One famous car wash type also happens to be the best car soap I've ever tried. Dissolves everything, including brake dust, and no towel drying.

With the liquids, you wont get that super deep shine, but the vehicle does stay clean a lot longer than with just washing. I personally think it's a waste to go to all that trouble waxing and buffing for a daily driver that will just be dirty in a few days anyway. Maybe if I was going to show it at a CX9 owners gathering. even on our dark Galaxy Grey paint, you don't see that build up of dust like you would with regular wax, or nothing.

The paste is applied like wax, and can be buffed to a deep shine, without the buildup of waxes. However, you don't get the all over protection, since you can only apply it to the painted surfaces.

Both types work by making the surface too slick for grime to stick to, rather than simply add a barrier between it and the paint. they also naturally wear off, rather than build up. In between you rinse or wash the car normally. When dirt starts to stick, you just apply more.

I like them. Much less work.

If the weather cooperates tommorow, I will wash it and take a photo to show you how it looks. She's getting to be a dirty girl.

[CX9 SportOwner]

Here you go. I rinsed the car off, washed it with a polymer soap, rinsed it again, and let it sit. No towel drying, no buffing. This is how it looks. It will also stay cleaner longer.

Awwww...my sweet sweet Galaxy Gray beauty.


.

[jimsbim]

Hey, thanks for the info. I'll check out the car wash goodies next trip to to the auto parts store. Your rig looks good, nice bike rack too. Jimsbim

[wontonjon]

ya sure you don't want to specify a particular brand - one particularly that is "easy" to use and "easy" on the wallet?

i'm staring at this "new" black car and thinking...what possessed me to get black when i should've just purchased another silver/gray car....

(yes, i'm trying to win sympathy points so you'll share whatever car products are useful and easy to use)....






is it working?



and i almost forgot to add...what would be a safe product to use to get off that sticky crap that used to be the protective film taped all over the car during shipment...the dealer took off all that stuff, but left the edges all sticky (on the roof). i asked them to clean it up...but it was returned to me looking not much better. rather than risk some angry kid doing something bad to my car, i'd rather just inquire about what i can use to clean up those sticky spots... is something like goo gone or whatever those products are safe for car paint?

[CX9 SportOwner]

I wouldn't use goo gone or anything like that. WD-40 is good at removing sticky without harming surfaces. You just need to wash the car to get the WD-40 off afterwards.

For easy washing you can try the Mr Clean car wash system. It actually works.

If you want a deeper shine, try a paste polymer, or something like Nu Finish, which is silicone based.

Again, waxes work by creating a layer on top of the paint so everything sticks, but doesn't touch the paint. They build up over time, and really do nothing to prevent adhesion. Polymers make the surface too slick for most muck to stick at all. They do wear out faster because of this, but are so easy to reapply it's not an issue.

Waxes can create swirls too, and make it harder to remove them because of that build up. A rubbing compound won't work to remove them until the wax is stripped.

[SNike05]

Adams is re-labeled Chemical Guys product. Just FYI.